What's the Best Skincare Ingredient? | Lab Muffin Beauty Science — Transcript

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1. 0:00the person who designed it did not
2. 0:01design well she did not think it through
3. 0:06it's michelle phan love muffin beauty
4. 0:08science chemistry PhD and obsessive
5. 0:10skincare ingredients checker today I'm
6. 0:12going through this skincare bracket that
7. 0:13I posted on Instagram you choose your
8. 0:16favorite ingredient out of each matchup
9. 0:17and then eventually you get to the
10. 0:19finals and you pick your favorite
11. 0:21ingredients I also polled my Instagram
12. 0:23followers for which ingredients they
13. 0:24liked and so we're going to go through
14. 0:26the popular vote today as well as my
15. 0:28personal bracket it's been really
16. 0:30interesting seeing different people's
17. 0:31brackets and what won for them if you
18. 0:33want to fill your own in I'm gonna put a
19. 0:35link in the description to my blog post
20. 0:36which has the empty bracket I would
21. 0:39recommend that you fill it in before you
22. 0:41watch this video so that you won't be
23. 0:42influenced by what's popular or what I
24. 0:44like if you like this sort of video give
25. 0:46it a thumbs up you can also subscribe to
26. 0:48my channel and click the notification
27. 0:49bell if you want to see more videos like
28. 0:51this so before we get to the results a
29. 0:53few things about the bracket so how I
30. 0:54pick the ingredients they were pretty
31. 0:56much just random ingredients that I
32. 0:57thought were popular or that I
33. 0:59personally really liked I probably could
34. 1:01have split it up into actives and
35. 1:03sunscreens and moisturizing ingredients
36. 1:05to make it a bit more fair but yeah it's
37. 1:08just fun another question I got a lot
38. 1:10worse why I didn't organize it by types
39. 1:12I have tretinoin vs. retinol versus add
40. 1:15a fleam in one corner and the reason is
41. 1:17because that was really hard they just
42. 1:19aren't the same number of ingredients in
43. 1:21each category and so organizing it just
44. 1:24didn't really make sense and so I
45. 1:26figured doing them randomly
46. 1:27eventually you're gonna get weird things
47. 1:29matching up against each other like in
48. 1:31the second round anyway so we may as
49. 1:33well just have it in the first round and
50. 1:34save my brain from frying so here is my
51. 1:37personal bracket first the first matchup
52. 1:38is glycerine versus caffeine in case you
53. 1:41didn't know I am obsessed with glycerine
54. 1:42there is a molecule of it here I have
55. 1:45really dehydration prone skin it is
56. 1:46pretty much a lifesaver it is the best
57. 1:50like 10-minute glow-up I can have so
58. 1:53that one
59. 1:54caffeine I've barely tried there are a
60. 1:57few caffeine products that I've been
61. 1:59meaning to try but I just haven't gotten
62. 2:00around to it I will try them very soon I
63. 2:03believe they might be good for your
64. 2:04under eye and my under eye does need a
65. 2:06bit of help
66. 2:06glycolic acid versus Kalin I do like a
67. 2:09GU kale and clay mask I have oily skins
68. 2:11that's really nice for soaking out the
69. 2:13oil
70. 2:13and my skin looks nice afterwards but
71. 2:15I'm really lazy so I end up doing a clay
72. 2:17mask every two months or so so I had to
73. 2:20give this one to glycolic acid glycolic
74. 2:22acid was my first alpha hydroxy acid
75. 2:24since then
76. 2:25I've branched out but I do have a soft
77. 2:28spot for it I do like it in a low
78. 2:31concentration toner I picked liquorice
79. 2:32over mineral oil licorice is good for
80. 2:35sensitive skin and it also helps with
81. 2:36hyperpigmentation and I am a
82. 2:39pigmentation monster so licorice had to
83. 2:41win I think chuckles really overrated
84. 2:43but maybe I haven't met the right
85. 2:44charcoal product I do have a video on
86. 2:46charcoal and how it works I just don't
87. 2:49think it really works that well on skin
88. 2:51like not not a lot better than like clay
89. 2:54or a scrub laughs he cast it on the
90. 2:56other hand it's like glycolic acid but
91. 2:58better it's a better human it's not
92. 3:01quite as strong so maybe it won't give
93. 3:04you as immediate results but for someone
94. 3:06like me who has pigmentation prone skin
95. 3:07lactic acid is probably a bit safer as
96. 3:09well so I think lactic for that so for
97. 3:12the rest of the top left bracket
98. 3:13glycerin 1-over glycolic acid for lactic
99. 3:16acid versus licorice I pick lactic acid
100. 3:18because alpha hydroxy acids I do love
101. 3:21chemical exfoliants and they're really
102. 3:22good for unclogging my pores so I picked
103. 3:24that so glycerin versus lefty gas that
104. 3:26this one was really really hard and I'm
105. 3:28still not entirely happy with my answer
106. 3:30I picked glycerin when I did it now I'm
107. 3:33sort of having second thoughts and
108. 3:34thinking I should have picked last agasa
109. 3:35because lactic acid is also a humectant
110. 3:37as well so it's kind of like humectant
111. 3:40plus exfoliant glycerin just a humectant
112. 3:42I don't know I picked glycerin so I'm
113. 3:44gonna have to live with that glycerin
114. 3:46one in that top-left quadrant
115. 3:47when I was running this poll a lot of
116. 3:49people messaged me and complained that I
117. 3:51was making them make really hard choices
118. 3:52and they couldn't choose but as you can
119. 3:54see I am also torturing myself I am
120. 3:57suffering with you we are in this
121. 3:59together all right the next bracket we
122. 4:01have regem Elvises aloe vera that was an
123. 4:03easy choice retinol definitely wins for
124. 4:05me aloe vera I think it's really
125. 4:07overrated just use glycerin everyone
126. 4:09just use glycerine glycerine is great
127. 4:11Treach in Olga's a shea butter I have
128. 4:13oily skin so butters and stuff don't
129. 4:16really do it for me so treasurer norm
130. 4:17wins and treasurenails doing great stuff
131. 4:20on my skin as well so I've got like lots
132. 4:22of like smaller pores around my cheeks
133. 4:24I pretty much have Paula's cheeks it's
134. 4:25really weird
135. 4:26I fix now over hyaluronic acid because
136. 4:29personally I found that Snell has done
137. 4:31more for me I've probably just
138. 4:32overlooked it a lot because it does tend
139. 4:34to be quite low down the ingredients
140. 4:35list and it's not always called out as a
141. 4:37star ingredient so maybe it is an
142. 4:39underdog which I should have picked but
143. 4:41I pick snail also I really like fitty so
144. 4:44I had to pick snail for her snail did
145. 4:47win her bracket
146. 4:48I picked zinc oxide over mandelic acid
147. 4:49because I kind of felt like I had enough
148. 4:52assets already which I realized is a
149. 4:55stupid way of thinking because it's not
150. 4:58how the bracket works but I fixed in
151. 5:01coxide because it is a nice sunscreen
152. 5:03ingredient that does everything and I
153. 5:05haven't tried that many mandelic acid
154. 5:07products that I've noticed doing
155. 5:09anything for my skin so I just pigs ink
156. 5:10so finishing off the bottom left bracket
157. 5:12retinal vessels retinol this was a
158. 5:14really easy choice for me threatenin all
159. 5:16the way threatenin is like retinol but
160. 5:18better in every way it is more
161. 5:20evidence-based it is directly active so
162. 5:24you don't have to worry about whether or
163. 5:25not it's getting converted properly in
164. 5:27your skin it is regulated as a
165. 5:29medication so that means it has all
166. 5:31these safety and efficacy checks in
167. 5:33place it in Australia at least is
168. 5:37subsidised because it's a medication and
169. 5:39so it is really cheap compared to
170. 5:41rational with snail vessel zinc oxide I
171. 5:43was pretty mad about zinc oxide sets now
172. 5:45one that and the snail versus tread
173. 5:47sorry fitty it's it's Trat Trat one top
174. 5:50right bracket as a lake acid versus a
175. 5:52bit benzo and I pick as a lake acid I do
176. 5:54think over benzene is underrated I think
177. 5:56it gets an unfair rap because it is
178. 5:58quite unstable but it does give really
179. 6:00high UVA protection when it's stable but
180. 6:03because there's so many great UVA
181. 6:05filters available in Australia for me I
182. 6:07just couldn't pick it so as a lake acid
183. 6:09is great the only problem with as oleic
184. 6:11acid is that I haven't really tried many
185. 6:13products that have a nice texture I
186. 6:15think because you need to use such a
187. 6:17high concentration of azelaic acid all
188. 6:19the products tend to be like a bit
189. 6:20chalky and dummy but hopefully I'll have
190. 6:23a few good recommendations soon because
191. 6:24I am trying out a lot more of them plant
192. 6:26oils versus salicylic acid I do like
193. 6:29plant oils I really like rose hip oil it
194. 6:31was one of my first skincare products
195. 6:33that I noticed gave me a massive
196. 6:35difference on my skin but salicylic acid
197. 6:38wins because I am
198. 6:39with tons of blackheads I need the
199. 6:41salicylic acid I also have the polis
200. 6:44Troy salicylic acid in a spray bottle
201. 6:45it's so good for bacne so because I have
202. 6:48this horribly damaged hair I have to use
203. 6:51a lot of hair conditioner and afterwards
204. 6:52it tends to clog my back so you can just
205. 6:56like hunch and hurt for gravity to do
206. 6:58its work and you just spray and it gets
207. 7:00on there and no clogged pores no bacne
208. 7:03amazing petrolatum versus benzoyl
209. 7:05peroxide I have a love-hate relationship
210. 7:08with benzoyl peroxide I know it works
211. 7:10great all of the studies say it works
212. 7:13great it does work great but the peeling
213. 7:16and the irritation it's just sometimes
214. 7:17not worth it for me I did also have this
215. 7:20one experience back when I was in second
216. 7:23year uni and I used 10% on my face
217. 7:25thinking I could dilute it to 2.5% it
218. 7:28doesn't really dilute that well I
219. 7:29probably just went over zealous and I
220. 7:32had a sunburn looking face for about a
221. 7:34week and everyone asked me if I was okay
222. 7:36so not the best memories associated with
223. 7:39pencil peroxide also it stains things
224. 7:42well the opposite it bleaches things and
225. 7:46yeah if you're already making my skin
226. 7:48super flaky don't destroy my other stuff
227. 7:51as well
228. 7:51bad benzoyl peroxide I think I also pick
229. 7:54petrolatum because it gets such a bad
230. 7:55rap from like natural brands and it just
231. 8:00shouldn't it's a really good ingredient
232. 8:02it's safe it does lots of things it's
233. 8:04effective
234. 8:05just let it live you can also light
235. 8:08fires with petrol ajam petrol Artemis
236. 8:11petroleum jelly by the way so you put it
237. 8:13in some cotton ball and then you light
238. 8:14it and burns really well and so it can
239. 8:16set the rest of your fire on fire
240. 8:19lifehack centella versus Matrixyl I just
241. 8:22put Matrixyl there as a general name for
242. 8:24the anti-aging family of peptides I
243. 8:27don't really use peptide products that
244. 8:29much I don't really see a big difference
245. 8:31in my skin and I think maybe it's just
246. 8:33because I don't have enough wrinkles yet
247. 8:34which is sort of like a humble brag I
248. 8:37guess I'm sorry sant ella i have used a
249. 8:40lot of products with centella I do
250. 8:41really like how well it heals my skin my
251. 8:44sister uses it a lot as well and so
252. 8:47centolla is our family love so I pick
253. 8:49some Intelli so salicylic acid one over
254. 8:51as a lake because I've got more
255. 8:53variance with it and I just really like
256. 8:54it petrol a lotta missus until I picked
257. 8:56petrolatum because I need lip balm
258. 8:58salicylic acid versus petrol Adam I pick
259. 9:00salicylic acid and so that one my top
260. 9:02right quadrant on to our final quadrant
261. 9:05ceramides versus niacinamide I picked
262. 9:07niacinamide ceramides are a bit tricky
263. 9:09because you need to have the right ratio
264. 9:10for them to work and you have different
265. 9:12ceramides and so generally it's just a
266. 9:14bit too hard to work out of a product as
267. 9:16good so nice and a mired it's more of a
268. 9:19no-brainer it's not an irritating
269. 9:21product so you can just dump it on your
270. 9:23skin and it should be fine it's really
271. 9:25good for sensitive skin and I send my it
272. 9:27sort of does everything it decreases
273. 9:29pigmentation it fixes your skin barrier
274. 9:32it protects from certain types of skin
275. 9:34cancer its anti-aging anti-wrinkle anti
276. 9:37cell onus there's also a study showing
277. 9:39that it reduces sebum it probably cooks
278. 9:41your dinner for you as well and gives
279. 9:43you a kiss before you go to work so nice
280. 9:45and made one but it definitely messes
281. 9:47tennis orb I've never actually tried it
282. 9:48definitely and it is a rationale it
283. 9:50that's particularly recommended for acne
284. 9:52it's in different Sochi nosov s1 because
285. 9:56it is my default UVA filter to nosov
286. 10:00versus nice and wide this was hard I
287. 10:02picked Janice or because nice and wide
288. 10:03it does sometimes give you a bit of a
289. 10:06red flush if it's not formulated
290. 10:08carefully so you know someone for that
291. 10:10vitamin C versus squalene I picked
292. 10:13vitamin C squalene it's a nice
293. 10:14moisturizer but I can replace it with a
294. 10:16million other moisturizers vitamin C I
295. 10:19need it for my pigmentation green tea
296. 10:20versus honey green tea has more Studies
297. 10:23on it I mean not that convinced by
298. 10:25either one but green tea does have
299. 10:26antioxidants it's more likely to work
300. 10:28vitamin C versus green tea easy choice
301. 10:30vitamin C one that 1 receiver sustain
302. 10:32yourself I picked vitamin C I guess it's
303. 10:34a bit weird because tennis or bass is
304. 10:36one specific UVA filter and vitamin C is
305. 10:40a group of ingredients so I think it's
306. 10:42just the person who designed it did not
307. 10:44design well she did not think it through
308. 10:46so onto our semi-finals we have glycerin
309. 10:50versus tretinoin and I picked glycerin I
310. 10:55disagree with Michele from three days
311. 10:58ago she was younger and not as wise I
312. 11:02would have picked retinol but I'm stuck
313. 11:04with glycerin I guess I think my
314. 11:06thinking
315. 11:07threatenin is easy to overdo and when
316. 11:10you overdo it it really hurts glycerin
317. 11:12you can't really overdo you can make
318. 11:15your skin super sticky but then you can
319. 11:16just wipe it off so I think in terms of
320. 11:19regret maybe maybe I filled this in
321. 11:21after a turn-on night on my skin hook
322. 11:23salicylic acid versus vitamin C this was
323. 11:25hard and again I think it might have
324. 11:27been the fact that vitamin C is just
325. 11:29annoying sometimes so it's really good
326. 11:32at fading pigmentation it does not
327. 11:33you're sidin and anti-aging things but
328. 11:35it's less essential I guess so salicylic
329. 11:37acid does also fade pigmentation not
330. 11:40quite as well on me but it can be used
331. 11:42for that so you can use it in salicylic
332. 11:44acid peels I think also vitamin C it's
333. 11:46unstable it's a bit of a pain to find a
334. 11:49good product
335. 11:49it also tans your skin sometimes it
336. 11:52decomposes to form one of the
337. 11:54ingredients in some of the newer sunless
338. 11:56Tanner's and so you end up with weird
339. 11:59metallic smelling skin and brown fingers
340. 12:02so salicylic acid is a lot more friendly
341. 12:05and that spray so good so the final
342. 12:07showdown was glycerin versus salicylic
343. 12:09acid and I picked glycerine glycerine
344. 12:12one I think my thinking was if I
345. 12:14couldn't use anything else ever again
346. 12:16salicylic acid would dry my skin out and
347. 12:19so glycerin I had to use that because
348. 12:22glycerin at least wouldn't hurt on to
349. 12:24the popular vote so I've put this on
350. 12:26here with the numbers the numbers are
351. 12:28the percentage of people who voted for
352. 12:31the winner I'm not gonna go through it
353. 12:32in as much detail as I did for my own
354. 12:34bracket because I've told about all the
355. 12:35ingredients before I'm gonna go through
356. 12:37some of the things that jumped out at me
357. 12:38and I'm gonna go through my
358. 12:39disappointment my intense disappointment
359. 12:42why did you not end up with the exact
360. 12:44same bracket as me your mileage may vary
361. 12:46but only within one percentage point of
362. 12:49mine so overall I think there was a big
363. 12:51actors bias and I also participated in
364. 12:54this bias I think we all just tend to
365. 12:56think that actors are like the Silver
366. 12:58Bullet the hard hitters all of our
367. 13:00skincare routines which they are a bit
368. 13:02but having a good cleanser moisturizer
369. 13:04and sunscreen are super important and I
370. 13:06feel like that really does about maybe
371. 13:0860 70 80 percent of the heavy lifting
372. 13:11for most routines and actives are just
373. 13:13like the bit on top that you add on top
374. 13:15to get your extra boost at the end if
375. 13:18you don't have a good sunscreen
376. 13:19moisturizer cleanse
377. 13:20routine going then your actors might
378. 13:24even make your skin worse because a lot
379. 13:25of them do you make your skin more
380. 13:26photosensitive what's a top left bracket
381. 13:28I am mostly in agreement with this
382. 13:30excess of my favorite glycerine got
383. 13:31knocked out in the second round it lost
384. 13:33to glycolic acid not by to much so a 62%
385. 13:36to glycolic acid but poor glycerine it's
386. 13:39okay I still love you you're my favorite
387. 13:43with some of these matchups I wonder if
388. 13:46things won because they were more common
389. 13:47so more people have tried it and so they
390. 13:49were more confident and voting for it so
391. 13:50for example glycolic acid versus lactic
392. 13:52acid a lot of people who have tried
393. 13:54lactic acid prefer it but glycolic won
394. 13:56and glycolic is in a lot more products
395. 13:58than lactic so it could just be that
396. 14:00sort of bias so I think this is why
397. 14:01retinol won over threatenin as well
398. 14:03which kaolin hurons is very upset about
399. 14:05and I am upset as well you've
400. 14:07disappointed us greatly but I think also
401. 14:09because threatenin is a prescription
402. 14:11early product then a lot less people
403. 14:13have access to it a lot less people have
404. 14:15tried it and so it's also a bit scarier
405. 14:17I guess so rational one with that round
406. 14:20I did also have a lot of people
407. 14:21messaging me I'll see moon what Matrixyl
408. 14:23was so I think again there is the thing
409. 14:26where we are going to vote for the
410. 14:28things that we've tried our final match
411. 14:30up with retinol versus niacinamide which
412. 14:32I think are two really great picks I'm
413. 14:33really happy to say that everything in
414. 14:36house semi-finals is reasonably well
415. 14:38researched and rational ended up winning
416. 14:40so I think we drew all love vitamin A
417. 14:42because it does so much its anti-aging
418. 14:44its anti acne and it's really
419. 14:46evidence-based although most of that
420. 14:48evidence is thanks to threatenin who got
421. 14:50kicked out I might remind you I think
422. 14:54also the finals was a little bit of
423. 14:55sensitive skin versus non sensitive skin
424. 14:58and so if your skin gets destroyed by
425. 15:00rationale you probably picked a nice
426. 15:01sinem I'd did you enjoy the bracket was
427. 15:03it easy for you to pick or was it
428. 15:04difficult did you agree with the opinion
429. 15:06poll should I do another bracket on a
430. 15:08different topic leave me a comment with
431. 15:10all of your thoughts if you liked this
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437. 15:20and tons and tons of posts on lots and
438. 15:22lots of sciency nerdy things see you
439. 15:25next time