This ingredient saved my hair — Transcript

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1. 0:00this ingredient completely transformed
2. 0:01my hair and it might transform yours too
3. 0:04it was a damaged rough mess this got it
4. 0:06back to looking shiny and feeling
5. 0:08healthy or as healthy as dead cells can
6. 0:11feel I guess I cannot go without it it
7. 0:14is amod dimethicone I'm Michelle I'm a
8. 0:16chemist and a massive nerd so I'm going
9. 0:18to talk about what amod dimethicone is
10. 0:20how it works and then talk about some
11. 0:22products with it that are really good
12. 0:24and a few that don't have it that also
13. 0:27work really well see I can make videos
14. 0:29when I'm not just mad about something I
15. 0:31can what is amod dimethicone it is a
16. 0:34silicone but wait it is not like the
17. 0:36other silicones silicons have a
18. 0:38reputation for building up and weighing
19. 0:40hair down it is not a very fair
20. 0:42reputation it depends so much on the
21. 0:44formula and your hair but Amo methicone
22. 0:47gets around a lot of the problems anyway
23. 0:50a lot of people who usually avoid
24. 0:51silicons like people with curly hair
25. 0:54they've told me that it's worked really
26. 0:55well for them so don't just assume it
27. 0:57won't work for you yet here's what
28. 0:59special about amod dimethicone like
29. 1:02other silicon it has silicon and oxygen
30. 1:04bonded together this is what gives
31. 1:05silicons a silky feel and that really
32. 1:08nice spread and this is amazing for so
33. 1:10many products it's in liquid foundations
34. 1:13Hair Care obviously skin care sunscreens
35. 1:15silicones are really one of the
36. 1:17ingredients that completely changed the
37. 1:19beauty industry when they were first
38. 1:20introduced they were like the smartphone
39. 1:23of beauty ingredients I don't know I
40. 1:25couldn't think of a better analogy for
41. 1:27that there are two parts to the name the
42. 1:29dimeth Ione part refers to dimethicone
43. 1:32which is the most common type of
44. 1:33silicone in Beauty it's kind of
45. 1:35misunderstood because it's not a single
46. 1:37ingredient it is a family of ingredients
47. 1:40that all have these units stuck together
48. 1:42into a chain so long chains in chemistry
49. 1:45are called polymers how many of these
50. 1:47are stuck together can change it's like
51. 1:49different length necklaces and depending
52. 1:51on the length these have different
53. 1:53properties so longer chains will feel
54. 1:55heavier shorter ones feel lighter but
55. 1:57they are all still called dimethicone
56. 1:59there are quite a few things like this
57. 2:01where different ingredients are under
58. 2:02the same name it's one of the big
59. 2:04reasons why you can't just rely on the
60. 2:06ingredient list to work out which
61. 2:08products to buy which is probably going
62. 2:10to be a topic for a future video let me
63. 2:12know if you want to see that so for the
64. 2:14Amo part of the name there are two
65. 2:16little things in the structure of Amo
66. 2:17dimethicone that make a massive
67. 2:19difference first there's the nitrogens
68. 2:21here which is the NS those are called
69. 2:22amines and I'm guessing it's the M part
70. 2:25of the name at a low enough pH when it
71. 2:28is more acidic there's going to be more
72. 2:30H+ around and H+ can stick to these ends
73. 2:34and give the a means a positive charge
74. 2:36that's going to be happening in your
75. 2:37hair products and this is Handy for two
76. 2:39big reasons one it helps stop it from
77. 2:42weighing down your hair because once
78. 2:44there's enough amod dimethicone stuck on
79. 2:46your hair will be slightly positively
80. 2:48charged the second reason is that
81. 2:50damaged hair is more negatively charged
82. 2:52than undamaged hair there are a lot of
83. 2:54different types of hair damage and these
84. 2:56are some of the more visible ones this
85. 2:58by the way is one of my favorite
86. 3:00diagrams from my new book the signs of
87. 3:01beauty you can see that with a lot of
88. 3:03these you are losing stuff from the hair
89. 3:05and that's especially the cuticle on the
90. 3:07surface the dark bit and this is bad
91. 3:10because the surface of fresh undamaged
92. 3:12hair has this really thin layer of oily
93. 3:1518 methyl eicosenoic acid that is like
94. 3:18such a hard name for me to say it means
95. 3:20there's 20 carbons the abbreviation is
96. 3:2418-mea these are chemically bonded to
97. 3:26the surface and it's sort of like the
98. 3:28hair's permanent natural condition it's
99. 3:30called the F layer the rest of the hair
100. 3:32is mostly made of protein and it's
101. 3:34almost all not oily it's hydrophilic
102. 3:38which means water loving and when the pH
103. 3:40is above the hair's ISO El electric
104. 3:42point which is about pH 3.7 these
105. 3:45exposed proteins are negatively charged
106. 3:48there's also microscopic chemical damage
107. 3:50which is when the F layer breaks off and
108. 3:52that also leaves negatively charged
109. 3:54groups so when it's damaged there is a
110. 3:56lot of negative and opposite charges ATT
111. 3:58tra the posit postive amod dimethicone
112. 4:01is going to be more attracted to these
113. 4:02negative damaged areas you might have
114. 4:04seen some products say that it targets
115. 4:06hair damage and assumed it was just some
116. 4:08marketing BS but there is actually this
117. 4:11chemical difference with damaged hair
118. 4:13it's not quite as magical as it sounds
119. 4:15but this can be pretty important if your
120. 4:17hair is quite damaged uncharged
121. 4:19conditioning ingredients just do not
122. 4:21stick very well to damaged hair because
123. 4:23the hair is too hydrophilic uncharged
124. 4:26ingredients need the F layer to stick to
125. 4:28this is the whole oil doesn't mix with
126. 4:30water thing your hair is basically water
127. 4:32if it's damaged I mean it isn't water
128. 4:35hair is not water it is just more on
129. 4:37like the watery side of things please no
130. 4:40one quote me as saying hair is water
131. 4:43okay the other special thing on amod
132. 4:45dimethicone is the Oh's these allowed to
133. 4:47cross link which means that when the Amo
134. 4:49dimethicone is on your hair these O's
135. 4:52are like little hands that can start
136. 4:53holding each other as it dries this
137. 4:56means that you get a more durable film
138. 4:57that can last through several washes and
139. 4:59the positive charge also helps with this
140. 5:02now this might sound bad because it
141. 5:03sounds like buildup but you don't
142. 5:06actually need to always wash conditioner
143. 5:08off your F layer that natural thing that
144. 5:10your conditioners are trying to
145. 5:12replicate is permanent so if it's a thin
146. 5:14film it isn't really a big problem also
147. 5:17when I say film I don't mean like a
148. 5:19continuous film conditioners deposit in
149. 5:21blobs they're never going to just block
150. 5:23everything from getting in and out of
151. 5:24your hair anyway having a longer-lasting
152. 5:26conditioner is Handy for really damaged
153. 5:29hair it helps helps prevent damage when
154. 5:30you're washing when your hair is wet
155. 5:32it's more fragile plus it's getting
156. 5:34moved around a whole bunch it's bashing
157. 5:36there's a lot of like physical trauma
158. 5:38going on and the whole point of
159. 5:39conditioner is really protecting against
160. 5:41a lot of this like physical mechanical
161. 5:44trauma I see a lot of people say that
162. 5:46silicones are just covering up damage
163. 5:48like that's a really bad thing but it's
164. 5:50not hair is dead it is like a piece of
165. 5:53wood if it's Jagged and rough it's going
166. 5:55to snag bits will break off but if you
167. 5:58smooth it down and then and paint it
168. 6:00that paint is shielding it against
169. 6:02further damage so what all of this
170. 6:03science background translates to when I
171. 6:06first bleached my hair about 6 years ago
172. 6:08I was just not prepared at all for what
173. 6:10to expect I was like an absolute Sweet
174. 6:13Summer child my hair was originally
175. 6:15resistant with low paracity it's just
176. 6:17like standard straight Asian hair which
177. 6:19is pretty much what I have up here
178. 6:21almost any conditioner would just be
179. 6:23fine it was actually really difficult
180. 6:25for me to review different products
181. 6:26because my hair was just fine with
182. 6:28anything that was actually one of the
183. 6:30reasons I bleached it but afterwards the
184. 6:32learning curve was just massive when my
185. 6:34hair was wet it just went really like
186. 6:36stretchy and elastic it felt like wet
187. 6:39instant noodles and it felt like it
188. 6:41would snap like wet instant noodles and
189. 6:43then when it was dry it was usually just
190. 6:45really rough and stiff and like crunchy
191. 6:48and felt like straw most of the time it
192. 6:50was like this because I had no idea what
193. 6:52I was doing but sometimes it was like
194. 6:54really nice and soft and smooth and I
195. 6:56couldn't work out why until I started
196. 6:57seeing a pattern with Amo Di Con in my
197. 7:00products plus it would be a lot less
198. 7:02stretchy and nudely when it was wet and
199. 7:04I got a lot less split ends it looked so
200. 7:07much shinier it just looked and behaved
201. 7:09a lot more like undamaged hair I used to
202. 7:12think that the secret was just not to
203. 7:14wash my hair as often but these days I
204. 7:16wash my hair almost every day and am
205. 7:18methicone just saves it my hair is
206. 7:21actually belly button length when I let
207. 7:22it out and this was bleached all the way
208. 7:24from black to white and then I put
209. 7:26purple on it some days I can't find any
210. 7:28split ends with which I think is just a
211. 7:31massive achievement on to the products
212. 7:33part of the video now obviously I
213. 7:35haven't tried all the products out there
214. 7:37if you have something that's really good
215. 7:39please let me know in the comments here
216. 7:41are some of my favorite ways to use amod
217. 7:43dimethicone wash off conditioners are my
218. 7:45favorite way to use Amo dimethicone
219. 7:46because washing my hair properly with
220. 7:48water just resets it into shape
221. 7:51sometimes that spiky straw feeling is
222. 7:53just when the hair is dry in a bent
223. 7:55configuration instead of like smooth and
224. 7:57aligned wetting my hair helps but not
225. 7:59quite as much as just really soaking it
226. 8:01with warm water it's also a lot harder
227. 8:03to apply too much of the conditioning
228. 8:05ingredients because you are rinsing off
229. 8:07the excess that didn't stick plus having
230. 8:09water just makes it so much easier to
231. 8:11distribute the product the really
232. 8:13annoying thing about all of these
233. 8:14products is that performance depends so
234. 8:16much on the formula so just seeing Amo
235. 8:19dimethicone on the list isn't any sort
236. 8:21of guarantee it has given me a much
237. 8:23better success rate though so hopefully
238. 8:25it does for you as well this is one of
239. 8:26my favorites the Tony and Guy volume
240. 8:28addiction conditioner there are a couple
241. 8:30of different versions the one that works
242. 8:32well for me is the one with Amma
243. 8:33dimethicone as the third ingredient
244. 8:35there is another version where it's the
245. 8:3610th ingredient but it doesn't work so
246. 8:38well for me I really didn't expect this
247. 8:41to work well because I mean it says
248. 8:43volume but I took a gamble based on
249. 8:45where athome was in the list and that
250. 8:48paid off I picked this up with my
251. 8:49groceries it's on sale a lot just really
252. 8:52nice product but not easily available
253. 8:54outside of Australia the laa s 100
254. 8:57collagen ceramite coating protein
255. 8:58treatment obviously it's a protein
256. 9:00treatment but I feel like the Amo
257. 9:02dimethicone is doing quite a lot of the
258. 9:03heavy lifting here it is really nice but
259. 9:06it is a bit small the Redken acidic
260. 9:08bonding concentrate conditioner the
261. 9:09L'Oreal everpure Bond strengthening
262. 9:12conditioner plus the L'Oreal LV Bond
263. 9:14repair conditioner I chucked out the
264. 9:16tube of that but those two L'Oreal
265. 9:18products are like the cheaper Mass
266. 9:20Market version of this they have really
267. 9:22similar ingredients and formulas but the
268. 9:24cheaper ones are almost definitely
269. 9:26designed to not work quite as well these
270. 9:28have a dimethicone but they also have a
271. 9:30variation of amodimethicone which is bis
272. 9:33cural amodimethicone that means that
273. 9:35amodimethicone has these long fatty acid
274. 9:37chains at the end and that will give you
275. 9:39more of that traditional conditioner
276. 9:41feel the reckon seems to work better
277. 9:43than the other ones on my hair the
278. 9:44conditioning is just more intense it
279. 9:46lasts longer I don't need to use quite
280. 9:48as much product but if your hair is less
281. 9:51bleach damaged then maybe the other ones
282. 9:53will have a similar effect L'Oreal lvve
283. 9:56conditioners a lot of these have amod
284. 9:58dimethicone but it's been a bit of a
285. 9:59mixed bag for me and again it is
286. 10:01probably more of that like formulation
287. 10:04complexity thing out of these the one
288. 10:06that's worked the best has been the high
289. 10:07lurum plump but am methicone is actually
290. 10:10quite low on the list these two didn't
291. 10:12work quite as well but it's like
292. 10:14ingredient three and four so yeah
293. 10:17conditioners are annoying it is so much
294. 10:19about the formula rather than just
295. 10:21having the right ingredients I think
296. 10:23these two are discontinued now I really
297. 10:25hate how hair care products get
298. 10:27discontinued all the time I get that
299. 10:29they are trying to improve the formulas
300. 10:31but as a reviewer who likes to try
301. 10:33things out for longer it is just
302. 10:35extremely annoying for me I also use
303. 10:38leave on conditioners these are really
304. 10:39great for conditioning my hair when my
305. 10:41wash off conditioner didn't work very
306. 10:43well I try a lot of new products out and
307. 10:45sometimes they do not work as well so
308. 10:47these are just really handy to get my
309. 10:48hair back to like nice these two work
310. 10:51really nicely for me the garia fructus
311. 10:52Sleek and Shine and the L'Oreal L viive
312. 10:55dream length no haircut cream both of
313. 10:57these are pretty similar and I use Maybe
314. 10:59like a Mentos siiz blob I mostly focus
315. 11:02it on like my hair from the chin
316. 11:04downwards my hair also just really loves
317. 11:06the Redken acidic perfecting concentrate
318. 11:08leave-in treatment my hair loves this
319. 11:11range it's great for me it is pricier I
320. 11:14tend to use like a much smaller blob
321. 11:16maybe like two Tic Tacs in size this one
322. 11:19just seems to spread a bit better as
323. 11:21well I personally find that if I use
324. 11:23these ones on dry hair it kind of feels
325. 11:25like I'm spreading it like all around
326. 11:27the outside of my hair and it's not like
327. 11:29in the middle I'm sure if you're more
328. 11:31patient than me you probably are you can
329. 11:34probably apply these like a bit more
330. 11:35systematically section out your hair and
331. 11:38it'll work better but I'm a bit lazy
332. 11:40this one o just spreads really really
333. 11:42nicely there are also some sprays that I
334. 11:44like and a lot of the time the ones that
335. 11:46I see with Amo dimethicone have like the
336. 11:48word detangling on them I really like
337. 11:50sprays because you don't have to wash
338. 11:52your hands afterwards they seem to
339. 11:53spread a bit more nicely especially if
340. 11:55you like brush them out rather than the
341. 11:56cream where you have to do a lot more
342. 11:58effort and working these two were the
343. 12:00first two I tried and unfortunately I
344. 12:02think both of them are discontinued this
345. 12:04one has been reformulated but I haven't
346. 12:06tried it both of these have amod
347. 12:07dimethicone as the second ingredient
348. 12:09they worked great stop discontinuing
349. 12:12things it's really annoying this one is
350. 12:14not discontinued is the Johnson's No
351. 12:16More Tangles detangling spray I got this
352. 12:18off iherb it's a US product it smells
353. 12:21pretty strongly which seems to be a
354. 12:23trend with us products and yeah I know
355. 12:25it says it's for like Toddlers and kids
356. 12:28and it says that it's G than adult
357. 12:29products and it's got like a li on the
358. 12:31front but it works really well there's
359. 12:34been a lot of research into silicone
360. 12:36Alternatives mostly so that products
361. 12:38that are siliconefree can still work
362. 12:40nicely and people are happy with them
363. 12:41and will Reby them over the years I have
364. 12:43tried a lot of these and it's only
365. 12:45within like the last year where products
366. 12:48have actually worked on my hair and it
367. 12:49feels like they are as good as maybe the
368. 12:52amod dimethicone products that didn't
369. 12:54work quite as well first there are
370. 12:55Lamela Waters these have pretty standard
371. 12:58conditioning ingredients so fatty
372. 13:00alcohols and Quon ammoniums the
373. 13:02difference is that they're formulated so
374. 13:04they distribute and stick onto your hair
375. 13:06better they work much better on my hair
376. 13:08than regular conditioners but I found
377. 13:10that the effect doesn't last quite as
378. 13:12long as Amo dimethicone and they are
379. 13:14like a little bit annoying and fussy to
380. 13:16use when I'm in the shower it just kind
381. 13:18of feels like I'm losing a whole bunch
382. 13:19of product through my fingers the jvn
383. 13:21undamaged strengthening conditioner I
384. 13:24hate the whole clean thing associated
385. 13:26with him it is like really cringe for me
386. 13:29but I have to admit this conditioner
387. 13:31works really well on my hair it I think
388. 13:34is discontinued as well I think it is an
389. 13:37overall formulation thing the ingredient
390. 13:39that I think is working really nicely is
391. 13:40the bras cido propile dimethyl Amin this
392. 13:44is an Amin ingredients so it forms a
393. 13:46charge when it's acidic and I've tried
394. 13:48this ingredient in other products as
395. 13:50well as very similar ingredients and
396. 13:52this just works a lot better the type B
397. 13:55conditioner I tried this for a sponsored
398. 13:56post although this video is not
399. 13:58sponsored I was really surprised by this
400. 14:00it feels kind of oily when I'm putting
401. 14:02it on but then it doesn't make my hair
402. 14:04feel oily afterwards it feels really
403. 14:06soft and smooth after it's dried I think
404. 14:09it's the polyglycerol 3 banate acetate
405. 14:11it is another Quon ammonium and it's
406. 14:14relatively rare in products the L'Oreal
407. 14:16elvive Huron plump spray also works
408. 14:19really nicely for me no silicon in it I
409. 14:21found this really good for resetting
410. 14:23crunchy ends and it is better than the
411. 14:25Johnson spray to be honest it feels a
412. 14:27lot softer it's just like really nice
413. 14:30for refreshing my hair but it doesn't
414. 14:32give as shiny a look as the Johnson
415. 14:34spray let me know what athome products
416. 14:37worked really well for you if you like
417. 14:38this video you might also like my book
418. 14:40the science of beauty it answers a whole
419. 14:42bunch of questions on Hair Care skincare
420. 14:44Nail Care makeup and just beauty
421. 14:47products in general my best hair care
422. 14:49hacks are in this video all my hair
423. 14:51videos are here