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The ULTIMATE Budget Turbo Civic Build! — Transcript

by BoostedBoiKyle · 19,546 words · 2,885 segments · language en · Watch on YouTube

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0:00All right, guys. Before we get started,
0:02I wanted to share some things with you
0:03real quick. Now, this video has been
0:04ready to go for well over a week now,
0:06and I had an opportunity to work with a
0:08very large company. They offered me what
0:11would have been my biggest brand deal
0:12ever, like by far. So, I was really
0:14excited about that, considering I had no
0:16intentions of having a sponsor on this
0:18video. I had already got all the parts
0:20ordered. I already started on the build
0:22when this deal came about, and I already
0:24had like a set-in-stone way I wanted to
0:26do this video. So, I told them what my
0:28idea was. I told them how I was going to
0:30do it. I'm going to use all these
0:31different parts, build it all the way,
0:33and they seemed like they were on board
0:34because I was already using almost all
0:36the products from them anyways. So, I
0:39kind of catered the video towards them
0:40from that point forward, and it's
0:42something I can't really go back on.
0:44But, what ended up happening is after I
0:46sent them the preview of the video, and
0:48I got it all done, uh they didn't
0:50realize how long it was going to be
0:51because you can tell it's a long video.
0:53So, they're worried about like viewer
0:54retention, and there was a lot of uh
0:57parts that had useful information to the
1:00video in it that they wanted chopped
1:01out, some products that they necessarily
1:03didn't have on their site they wanted
1:05cut out or shortened tremendously. And
1:07so, I would have just had to really hack
1:08it up and cater to them fully, which was
1:11a tough decision. I tried to, but it
1:13just it just didn't feel right. I wanted
1:14to keep the video authentic and true to
1:16my original idea, which was to build a
1:18dirt-cheap Civic start to finish, at
1:20least get it up and running, and show
1:22every dollar spent, no matter where that
1:24was from. And uh unfortunately, that
1:27fell through.
1:28But,
1:29I can't go back and redo any of it. So,
1:32it is what it is.
1:33I was going to do it regardless
1:35of the sponsor or not, but that's why I
1:37had some delays there as well with
1:38getting this out. So, I just wanted to
1:39be fully transparent, and I'm releasing
1:41it all. So, hope you guys enjoy.
1:44Boys, today we are putting together the
1:46ultimate budget Civic turbo build. Stuff
1:49has gotten so cheap overseas, and I've
1:52wanted to make this video for quite some
1:53time because I want to see how cheap I
1:55can put together a turbo Honda Civic
1:58that actually puts down some serious
2:00numbers. And if you look in front of me
2:01right here, I have everything ordered
2:04and here to put this thing together. And
2:06I actually ordered all of this stuff off
2:09of Teemu. This is basically a 100% Teemu
2:13build because literally everything I
2:14needed was on there and it's insane. I
2:17got intercooler pipes, I got a wiring
2:19harness, I got motor mounts, a shifter,
2:23turbo manifold, turbo clutch, radiator,
2:25intercooler, literally everything we're
2:27going to need to get this Civic up and
2:30ripping. And we are going to be showing
2:32the prices of all of these components as
2:35we put the car together. And I think you
2:37guys will be shocked at just how cheap I
2:40have managed to get some of this stuff.
2:42The goal is going to be building a 500
2:45wheel horsepower Civic, not crank, but
2:47to the tires for a budget of $5,000,
2:51which I think is very doable and that
2:53will include the price of the car
2:56itself, which is right behind me. So,
2:58this is going to actually be the only
3:00thing I am starting with that I already
3:03had possession of. I'm trying to do this
3:05build as fair as possible. I'm not
3:08making any Instagram posts using my
3:10following to get any good deals or
3:12anything like that. This will be the one
3:14thing that I already had in my
3:16possession. Everything else I sourced
3:19fairly either from Marketplace or
3:21online, whatever it may be. So, this
3:23right here, if you guys don't know, was
3:24my mom's old Civic. It still has the
3:27factory D16 in it, but unfortunately, it
3:31blew up and we do have to yank this
3:33thing out. It is absolutely disgusting
3:36in there, but this will be our shell
3:39that we are going to start with. Now, I
3:42went on Facebook Marketplace and I found
3:45several EK Civic shells. You could get
3:47away with other year Civics as well. You
3:50could go as early as 89 doing EF or
3:54maybe a 92 to 95 EG, but I am going to
3:58be doing an EK. So, you could basically
4:01do this budget build with anywhere from
4:04as old as 89 to all the way up to a 2000
4:08Honda Civic. Anything in that range you
4:10should be able to find these same parts
4:12to do the swap. Now, I got this car for
4:15600 bucks back when I used to work at a
4:17body shop.
4:18I don't think that's a super fair price.
4:20I mean, I've seen some good deals, 5 600
4:23bucks for some shells with no engine,
4:25but I'm going to put an extremely fair
4:28price on this as if I didn't have the
4:30engine in it as a clean-ish
4:33roller for a thousand dollars. And that
4:37is what we are going to start with. But,
4:39before we can get anything going into
4:41this Civic, we have to get some stuff
4:43out. So, we're going to go ahead and
4:44power wash this engine bay out, yank the
4:47old D series out, and we can start with
4:49a fresh roller
4:51and get to building this thing.
5:02And real quick before we get started on
5:03tearing the Civic down, you will see
5:04that we have it here on the ground on
5:06jack stands and that is because I'm
5:08trying to keep this build as relatable
5:09as possible. We're not going to use any
5:11lifts. I know a lot of you guys at home
5:13might be working out of your garage on
5:14the floor or even in your driveway on
5:16jack stands. So, we're going to try to
5:18use the most basic tools to get this
5:20done. Heck, I might not even have to use
5:21a welder to do this build. That's how
5:23far we're going to take it. But, let's
5:25go ahead and yank this engine out.
5:32>> [music]
5:53>> All right, guys. We got the old D16 out
5:54of the Civic, and now we have a fresh
5:56roller here ready for a new engine to go
5:58into this thing. Now, to keep this build
6:00as simple as possible, I want an engine
6:02that we can make that 500 horsepower
6:04with without having to tear it apart and
6:06upgrade the internals. Out of all the
6:07Honda engines out there, the one that's
6:09going to do that the most reliably is
6:11the K series. Now, the K series makes
6:14great power, but it is also the cheapest
6:17option nowadays. If I was making this
6:18video several years back, at one point
6:21the K series was an expensive swap back
6:22when I first got into Hondas, but now
6:25they have become so cheap to do, it is
6:27just insane. And I got to go on a quick
6:29rant. I believe the K series is the best
6:32four-cylinder in existence. I used to
6:35just think it was my opinion, but at
6:36this point I think it's a fact. Now,
6:39Honda made a ton of great
6:41four-cylinders. You got the B series,
6:43the H series, the F series that came in
6:45the S2000. All amazing engines, and if
6:47you look outside of Honda, you look at
6:49the 4Gs, the SRs.
6:51There's many great four-cylinders out
6:54there, but none of them have the
6:56abundance and the aftermarket support
6:59that the K series has. It's just insane.
7:02What other engine
7:03can you get for under a thousand
7:05dollars, throw it in your car, make over
7:07500 horsepower,
7:09if it blows up, you can find one the
7:11next day for a thousand bucks or less
7:14and throw it in again, and keep having
7:16fun without even opening it up. What
7:18other engine has more freaking
7:21transmission adapters than a K series as
7:23far as the four-cylinder world goes. So,
7:25in my opinion, K series hands down the
7:27best four-cylinder out there. Now, you
7:29can find these K series in junkyards,
7:32you can find them at JDM engine
7:34importers. They made millions of these
7:37things. They came in all the CRVs, all
7:39the Accords. So, right now they are
7:41still very cheap, but I think we are
7:42getting past the point of where they
7:45were the cheapest. Prices are starting
7:47to go up. Just a couple years ago, they
7:48were a little cheaper, but now they're
7:50starting to tick up in price. So, this
7:52might be the cheapest time you can do
7:54the uh swap here. But, if you do a
7:56little extra digging on Marketplace or
7:58go to a junkyard, you can find one for a
8:00really good deal. I was originally going
8:02to do this video and get an engine from
8:04this JDM importer that I have here in
8:07Orlando, and they typically go for $850
8:11to $950 for a good K-series. But, I held
8:14out for a bit longer looking at
8:16junkyards, looking on Marketplace to see
8:17if I could find a better deal, and I
8:19found a 2007 Acura TSX out of junkyard
8:23with a K24A2 in it. And we are going to
8:26try to save a little bit of money and go
8:27pull ourselves. There it is, boys. It
8:31just hit the lot today.
8:34And she still has the engine. K24 A2.
8:39We're going to go ahead and start
8:41ripping this thing out.
8:43>> [music]
8:51[music]
9:01[music]
9:18[music]
9:23[music]
9:31[music]
9:42>> All right, there she is. Our new K24 A2.
9:46>> What a find at the junkyard, the A2s?
9:48>> Yeah, it's been a while since we've had
9:49a a serious junkyard thrash, you know?
9:52>> we had to see if we still had it, man.
9:54>> Yeah, we got it out a couple hours.
9:56>> Yeah, we got it pretty good.
9:57>> Not too bad. We just used the seat belt
9:58out of the car to
10:00lift that thing out of there, pull the
10:01transmission off cuz we're not going to
10:03need that. The uh AC compressor had a
10:05hole in it.
10:06Look at that. The freaking AC compressor
10:08threw a rod, so
10:09maybe maybe thought they thought the
10:11motor might go or something and
10:12>> Cuz all that green stuff is that's all I
10:14got to do.
10:15>> Yeah, there's like antifreeze all over
10:16it and
10:17>> I think it's got a hole in
10:18>> of crap, but the car wasn't wrecked, so
10:20hopefully nothing is wrong with the
10:21engine. We turned it over, it feels
10:23good. So, we're going to take a gamble
10:25on this thing
10:27and hopefully it works out. All right,
10:28boys, we got the K24 A2 from the TSX all
10:31loaded up here. The total came out to
10:32$406.
10:35Uh that is without a guarantee. So, it
10:37would have been more, but we're rolling
10:39the dice hoping that she is good and I
10:41could even get $80 back if I bring a
10:43core. So, it could be even cheaper than
10:45that. We were also able to keep the
10:47starter on there as well, which is nice,
10:49so we don't have to track down a used or
10:50new starter, which will save us probably
10:52a good 50 to possibly over $100. Same
10:55with the engine. The intake manifold we
10:57got as well, but we're probably going to
10:58put a different one on it anyways, but
11:00it does have the drive-by-wire throttle
11:01body on it. So, technically, if I got
11:03really
11:04penny pinch you with it, I could resell
11:06some of those items and get some of our
11:07budget back, but we're just going to
11:09leave the engine as the $406 because
11:11that is a steal for a K24 A2 granted
11:14that nothing's wrong with it. So,
11:17got our engine ready to go into the car.
11:19All right, guys, we are back from the
11:20junkyard with our K24 A2 out of that
11:22TSX. Now, we did get the car moved over
11:24because we just got the floors epoxied
11:25over here. They're looking very nice,
11:27but we got a
11:28work over here for a minute. Now, the
11:30K24 A2 is going to be the best option if
11:33you can find it, and the equivalent
11:35option to this would be the K24A,
11:38the JDM K24 with the RBB head, which
11:41also has three-lobe intake and exhaust
11:44camshafts with the high-flowing true
11:47VTEC head. That will be just as strong
11:49as the K24A2 here, but if you can't
11:52source either of those engines, getting
11:54like a K24A4 or a K24A1, even a newer
11:57like K24AA, I believe, those will all
12:00hold the power just fine. If you guys
12:02remember my MR2, it used to have a K24A4
12:05in it. I got the engine for like 150
12:07bucks way back in the day, slapped that
12:09thing in there, made a little over 450
12:10horsepower to the tires, it ran 11s at
12:13high altitude in Colorado in the quarter
12:15mile, and it burned so much oil that I
12:17just never gave it an oil change. I just
12:19had to put a quart in it every time we
12:20went out to a car meet, and that thing
12:23never skipped a beat, never blew up the
12:25engine or trans, and that combo was
12:27bulletproof for almost 2 years in that
12:29car, and they are just very stout. But,
12:31we were able to source the K24A2 here,
12:34and uh we went ahead got it up on the
12:35engine stand, got it cleaned off, got
12:37the accessories off because we're going
12:38to change some of that stuff up, and
12:40this thing is just about ready to go
12:42into the car completely unopened. Now,
12:44we are going to need a transmission,
12:45obviously. So, if you look down here,
12:47this is a EP3 5-speed manual
12:51transmission that I got off Marketplace.
12:53This was listed for $650,
12:56and I think it's because it was very
12:58grimy, sludgy, and gross because these
13:01typically go for about 800 to 1,000 is
13:05usually where what you see them for, but
13:06I was able to show up and talk him $50
13:10off, so I got this one for 600 bucks,
13:12and we got it cleaned up, and this
13:14thing's ready to go. Now, it is an open
13:15diff, so an upgrade that you're going to
13:17want to probably do if you're taking the
13:19car somewhat serious is open these up
13:21and put a LSD in them, which we might do
13:23to the car in the future, but for the uh
13:26budget sake, we're going to leave her
13:27open diff one tire fire and see what
13:30happens. I believe my MR2 was open diff
13:31as well, and it actually did pretty
13:33good, but it had all that weight in the
13:34rear. So, before we can get all of this
13:37into the car, obviously, we need to do
13:38the clutch and mounts, but we'll get to
13:39that in a second because
13:41this EK subframe is going to have to go
13:44because the mount kit that we got off
13:45Teemu, which is the only option on there
13:47for a K swap into an EK, requires that
13:50you change out the factory EK subframe
13:53for an EG subframe, which is the '92 to
13:55'95 Civic. The main reason they're doing
13:58that is for the clearancing and the
14:02space that you gain with the EG
14:04subframe. The EK one uh can have a
14:06couple clearance problems here and
14:08there, and now they do make a mount kit
14:09that will work for the EK subframe.
14:11Hasport makes that if you want to keep
14:13the EK subframe in there and go ahead
14:15and just get the Hasport mounts, but our
14:18mount kit requires that guy to go. And
14:19that brings us back to the junkyard.
14:21Right here, we have a '93 Del Sol. So,
14:25this actually will have the same
14:26subframe in it that comes in all of the
14:28EGs. This one just happens to be in a
14:30Del Sol. There's not many EGs in the
14:32junkyards anymore, but luckily, we were
14:34able to find this one right here. So,
14:35this has the manual steering rack on it
14:37as well, which we will take with us to
14:40go on to the K swap build. But, we'll go
14:43ahead, get this dropped out. The
14:44engine's already out of our way, which
14:45makes it nice and easy. So, it's just a
14:47few bolts. We'll get her out of there,
14:48and we'll have ourselves a subframe. And
14:50right before we get started on pulling
14:51this subframe out of the Del Sol, we got
14:53the freaking
14:54Goodyear blimp passing over. [music]
14:57That's pretty sweet. You don't see that
14:58every day.
15:03>> [music]
15:09>> All right, guys, we got the steering
15:10rack out. Took us about 10 minutes, and
15:13made quick work of it. And we just paid
15:15for it. It was $155,
15:17and we did get the A arms along with the
15:21strut forks as well because we looked up
15:23that these possibly might be different
15:25widths than the EK, so I just got to
15:26confirm that. We just grabbed them to be
15:27sure.
15:28And we got the uh EG subframe along with
15:31the manual steering rack. And we even
15:32got this U-joint right here.
15:34So, we'll have everything we need to
15:35swap it over into the EK. All right,
15:37guys, we got the subframe out of the Del
15:39Sol back over here at the shop. We went
15:41ahead power washed it off, hit it with
15:42some black spray paint, get it looking
15:44nice. And as you saw, it comes with the
15:46steering rack right here, which is the
15:47manual rack. So, we will be taking all
15:49of the power steering stuff out of this
15:51one and converting it to manual, which
15:53is nice cuz these racks are
15:55a little hard to come by. And we also
15:56kept all of the hardware from this one
15:59as well because I believe some of these
16:00bolts are different lengths. But, other
16:02than that, it is a direct bolt-in
16:03replacement in place of the EK subframe.
16:06Otherwise, we should be good to go.
16:07We'll get this one off, get the new EG
16:09one on, and we can get a K-series in
16:11this thing.
16:26So, you can see right over here we got
16:27the EK subframe pulled off, and you can
16:29see how much bulkier that one is than
16:32the EG subframe over here. There's a lot
16:34more width to this one, and
16:37good thing we grabbed this U-joint with
16:39us from the junkyard because the power
16:41steering rack has a bigger spline on it,
16:43and it does not fit. So, we have to use
16:46this guy right here
16:47to go to the column in the EK.
16:51But, we're ready to go ahead and get
16:53this one in.
17:03>> [music]
17:07>> All right, guys, we got the EG subframe
17:09all bolted in here, got the suspension
17:11all back together, so we can actually
17:12set the car back down on the ground when
17:14we need to. The steering wheel is all
17:16hooked up, ready to go. And it went in
17:18nice and easy. So, now that that's in
17:19there, we are ready to actually get the
17:21K24 bolted up to the transmission and
17:24get this thing into the car. So, we're
17:26going to start with the mounts right
17:28here. So, this entire motor mount kit
17:30right here came directly off of Teemu
17:34and this entire kit was $111.03
17:38from Teemu, which is pretty nuts
17:41considering it is all billet right here.
17:43So, this is actually the transmission
17:44mount. Look at that. And then we have
17:46this guy that actually goes on top of it
17:49right there. It came with all of the
17:51hardware. We have the back mount that is
17:54completely billet as well. And then we
17:56got this guy that goes to the back of
17:58the engine and then the two side mounts
18:00that go into the car. And what's nice
18:01about this kit is I believe there is
18:03zero welding. So, you actually have
18:05these guys right here. This one should
18:07just bolt on
18:09like so on that side. So, you don't just
18:11have to give that guy a little tap and
18:13it should line right up. Then we got
18:14this one
18:16that should go right
18:18here maybe. We got it upside down. How's
18:20this go?
18:22Maybe I'm just an idiot over here. I It
18:24needs to be something like this.
18:26Oh, maybe like that. There we go. Flip
18:27it around.
18:29That's it right [snorts] there.
18:31So, yeah. See, it just bolts in
18:33to those three right there.
18:36And then we have our side mount.
18:38And between all of those, we should be
18:40able to get it in the car
18:42pretty easily. And then we're going to
18:44go ahead and bolt our clutch up. Now,
18:46this I did have to source
18:48uh somewhere else online, but it was
18:49still very cheap. This is a XTD Stage 5
18:54clutch and this says it's good for up to
18:56600 horsepower. So, we're going to put
18:58that to the test. It's just a four-puck
19:00clutch with flywheel and this guy costed
19:05$226.09.
19:09Now, there is actually a version without
19:10the flywheel that's only $180.
19:13But, for 50 extra bucks, you get a fresh
19:15flywheel. So, we went ahead and just did
19:17that. And to go along with it, we
19:18obviously are going to need some
19:19flywheel bolts. So, these are manual RSX
19:22flywheel bolts. Uh the part number is
19:25911-PNA-B00.
19:29And these guys were $7.44
19:32each. And we got eight of those. We're
19:34going to go ahead, put a little bit of
19:35Loctite on them.
19:37Get it all bolted up. We got our
19:38throwout bearing to go along with that.
19:40And uh I think that's about it. So,
19:42we're going to go ahead and get to it,
19:43get all this together, get the mounts
19:45on, and get this thing into the car.
20:29So, I was getting all the mounts ready
20:30for this to go into the car. I got the
20:31side mount on right there, and I was
20:33getting ready to put this back mount on.
20:35And I did find my first issue with the
20:38cheap motor mount kit here. It's not a
20:40big one, but it did have me stumped for
20:43a little bit, and I got it figured out.
20:44So, I went through every bolt that came
20:46with the kit, and nothing fit this guy
20:49up here. So, I have the two bolts that
20:51went down to these guys, those go into
20:52the transmission
20:54down there like so. And then, this guy
20:57has a through bolt that goes through
20:59there, and it ties into that top part.
21:02Now, for whatever reason, this is a
21:04coarser thread than everything else on
21:07this kit. Everything that was provided
21:09is a M12 by 1.25 and it like kind of
21:12started in there, but then it would just
21:14bind up and fall out and I'm like, "What
21:15the heck is going on?"
21:17Uh turns out it is a M12 by 1.75
21:21and it did not come with that bolt.
21:23Luckily, I had one right here in my
21:25hardware kit
21:27and that guy threads right in. I'm not
21:28sure why
21:30that one is different from everything
21:31else, but I got the right bolt, so
21:35figured I'd go ahead and document any
21:36little issues I might run into with the
21:37cheaper parts, but
21:39should just be the one bolt. I think
21:41everything else will go together pretty
21:42good.
22:25And just like that, boys, we are
22:26officially K-swapped. We went ahead and
22:28pulled this thing outside real quick to
22:30further power wash the engine bay out in
22:32the spots we couldn't reach with the
22:33D-series in there and also after we took
22:36the starter and intake manifold off, it
22:38was pretty grimy up under there, so we
22:40cleaned it off as best as we could. We
22:41got it back in the shop in the spot we
22:43started in on the new floors over here,
22:46but yeah, it is in there. I give the
22:49mount installation about a
22:51four out of 10 on how well everything
22:54lined up. I definitely had to convince
22:56things to
22:57go into place. I had to get my biggest
22:59pry bar to really get that last uh bolt
23:02in. But, once I got everything in and
23:04lined up, it actually fits in there
23:06really good. You'll see that we have two
23:07sets of holes on each mount, the upper
23:09and lower hole. We are on the lower one
23:11for the K24. That upper one's going to
23:13be for a K20. The K24 has a 3/4 in
23:17taller deck height on the block here, so
23:19that's going to put the valve cover and
23:20everything a bit higher. If we were on
23:22that higher setting, that would give us
23:23more oil pan clearance, but it's
23:25probably going to
23:27run into the hood. So, we are on the K24
23:29setting, and we should be all good to go
23:32there. And there's a couple other things
23:33I need to add that I forgot to mention
23:35earlier. So, the transmission is out of
23:37an EP3, which is a K20 transmission.
23:40Now, all of these cheap mount kits are
23:41going to be designed off of the K20
23:44transmission. You can use a K24
23:47transmission if you decide to make your
23:49own mount on this side, or I believe
23:51Hasport, once again, makes an option for
23:52that. But, that is just something you're
23:54going to have to double-check on as
23:55well. These kits are designed with the
23:57K20 transmission. And you will also need
24:00this piece right here that I forgot to
24:01mention. This is the CRV engine side
24:04mounting bracket, and that goes along
24:06with this kit. Teemu actually had that
24:08one available on the site, which is
24:10pretty crazy, and that was $34.98
24:12from Teemu. So, I got that on there, and
24:15we got the engine and everything into
24:17the car. So, now that that's all in
24:18there,
24:19we can move on to the fun stuff. So,
24:21we're going to go ahead and see how this
24:23freaking manifold fits. I got this guy
24:25straight off Teemu, and it was
24:28$137.70
24:31for a complete sidewinder manifold,
24:34which is
24:35pretty nuts. There's actually like
24:36minimum welding on it. If you look, we
24:37just have a couple uh elbows coming off
24:40the head flange there, and it looks like
24:42a lot of these tubes were just mandrel
24:44bent. Like, look at this one. It's full
24:45one-piece from
24:47the head flange to the collector, all
24:49mandrel bent, which I'm sure makes it
24:51very cheap and fast just to slap these
24:53things together. And uh we're going to
24:55see how she does. So, less than 150
24:58bucks for a complete turbo manifold with
25:00a T3 flange on it and a flange for a 44
25:03mm V-band wastegate. So, now the real
25:07question is
25:08how does she fit and where is the turbo
25:10going to end up?
25:18She's a little tight, boys.
25:21Not going to lie. Oh, it goes down.
25:24Okay.
25:27All right, our manifold is on. I don't
25:29have a gasket on there right now cuz
25:30we're just going to kind of mock
25:31everything up. We'll get to the gaskets
25:34afterwards, but now we can go ahead and
25:36see how the turbo fits. And here is our
25:40turbo. This is a 3582
25:43journal bearing turbo. And this thing
25:46was $121.08
25:49and it claims up to 600 horsepower. Now,
25:52I already went ahead and loosened the
25:54compressor housing cuz I know we're
25:55going to have to clock it to get it on
25:57to the manifold. But, that is crazy that
26:00between this and the exhaust manifold
26:05what is that? Just barely over $250 to
26:08have a turbo and manifold is crazy. So,
26:11we'll go ahead
26:12get this guy on the real quick. The
26:13exhaust manifold did come with the studs
26:16as well. Those guys are right up here.
26:18So, we'll go ahead and just
26:20throw our studs in real quick.
26:22Now, we can go ahead and throw the turbo
26:24on.
26:26Once again, no gasket for right now.
26:29We'll just throw a couple nuts on there
26:30just to hold it
26:32to the manifold.
26:35And
26:37oh, that's going to hit the shifter,
26:38isn't it?
26:42Yes, it is. Hold on. Is that going to
26:43forward?
26:45We might swing it.
26:48Oh, just barely. She clears.
26:51But, that's going to have to be
26:54something like that.
26:56Bang.
26:57Not bad. You're looking at a turbo
26:59K-swap Civic right here. And if my math
27:01is right, we're somewhere right around
27:02$2,500 to get to this point.
27:07>> [snorts]
27:13>> All right. Get that guy out of the way.
27:15Don't need this junk anymore. So, now
27:17that we got the exhaust manifold and
27:19turbo on the car, we can move on to the
27:20intake manifold here. Now, we do have
27:22the stock K24 intake that came with the
27:24junkyard engine. And if we wanted to
27:27save a couple extra bucks, we could
27:28definitely make this work. This does get
27:30the throttle body kind of low and to a
27:32hard-to-reach spot. Also, getting to the
27:33starter and anything along the block is
27:36kind of tough with this style intake.
27:38And we have a lot of extra hoses and
27:40clutter that we just don't need. It's a
27:41two-piece deal. And since we have extra
27:43room in the budget, and we can find
27:45these intakes really cheap online, we
27:47went ahead and picked up this guy right
27:48here. So, this is just a cast K24
27:51aftermarket intake manifold. And this
27:53one came with the throttle body. And
27:55this was only $149.88.
27:59So, you do have to be a little careful
28:00with these because some of the castings
28:02aren't the greatest. This one actually
28:03looks like it's in pretty good shape
28:05overall. But I've seen a couple where
28:07the port the ports right here are just
28:09terrible, and you definitely have to go
28:10in there and kind of clean them up. But
28:11for the price, I mean, it is kind of
28:13tough to beat. So, we got our intake
28:15manifold, and we're going to go ahead
28:16and slap this guy on.
28:18And we still have the gasket from the
28:21K24, the used one that came out of the
28:23junkyard. So, we're just going to go
28:24ahead and
28:25reuse that guy.
28:27And we can get our
28:29new intake on like so. So, I just got a
28:31couple nuts on there to hold it on for
28:33right now. And this K24 originally was a
28:36drive-by-wire. So, it has a
28:38drive-by-wire throttle body on the stock
28:40intake over there. Obviously, the EK,
28:42back in its day, did not have that. It's
28:44a cable-driven
28:45throttle. So, our throttle body is a
28:48cable-driven throttle body, so we can
28:50just adapt right to that guy. So, for
28:51the intercooler, we got this guy right
28:53here off of Teemu. This was $92.73.
28:56This is a same-side intercooler, so the
28:59inlet and outlet are on the same side
29:01instead of a typical, you know, inlet on
29:03one side and outlet on the other that
29:05you see on a big front-mount
29:06intercooler. A lot of the way the
29:08K-series are set up is everything's off
29:11to one side, especially with the
29:12sidewinder manifold. You got the
29:14outlet of the compressor housing right
29:16there and the throttle body both right
29:18here, so it's easy just to get both
29:20charge pipes out and around under the
29:22headlight right here because there's not
29:23really any room for a pipe to go over
29:26there for any reason. So, that's why a
29:27lot of these K-swap turbo setups run a
29:29same-side intercooler, and that guy will
29:31mount up somewhere like so. And to go
29:33along with the intercooler, we have a 2
29:35and 1/2-in universal intercooler piping
29:37kit along with silicone couplers and
29:40T-bolt clamps. All of this was $107.78.
29:44We got two 180° bends right here, two
29:4745s, two 90s, two pieces of straight,
29:51and we got several straight and 90°
29:53couplers along with the clamps, like I
29:54said. Now, the goal is to do absolutely
29:57no welding on any of these charge pipes
29:59because when it comes to welding thin
30:00aluminum, many of you guys may not have
30:02the TIG welder at home or the skills to
30:04do it, and I think that we're just going
30:07to use nothing but silicone couplers and
30:10clamps to hold the entire uh boost
30:12system together here. So, we'll go ahead
30:14and mock all this stuff and see where
30:16everything's going to live.
30:56>> Also, if you don't have a fancy little
30:58deburr tool after you cut the inner core
30:59pipes, you can just use the
31:01side of a flathead
31:02and just scrape it out. So, you don't
31:04want any of that stuff going into the
31:06engine.
31:08All right, we are looking pretty good.
31:10So, I ended up putting a 45° coupler
31:12right here. It fits a lot better than
31:14the 90 did. Just puts it out perfectly
31:16under the headlight. And I did order a
31:18couple extra those just because I knew I
31:20might need them. And those were $8.84
31:23each.
31:24But, yeah. We just have to make one more
31:27cut on the top one.
31:29Just need to get this inner cooler over
31:31this way enough so this 180 will work
31:32for us with no
31:35modification. Just go out and around
31:36right there.
31:38And we should be set. So, just a couple
31:39inches off that guy. All right. Final
31:42piece cut.
31:44That will just go right in there. And I
31:46did have to
31:49go through my stuff and I did track down
31:51a 2 and 1/2 inch to 3 inch reducer. This
31:54one is pretty worn out. It is used. So,
31:57it is one part I had to break the rule
31:59on and I had myself. But, I found a
32:02two-pack of these on Teemu. They are
32:04$17.96
32:06for the two-pack. So, I'll just
32:07throw the two in there even though I'm
32:09using one since I broke my own rule.
32:11This was one part I had to find. But,
32:12yeah, you can see it's a little loose on
32:13there.
32:14But, she'll do do the job.
32:16If anything, I might put a brand new one
32:18on before we actually get it
32:19making boost. But, for right now,
32:22we can use that for mock-up. And we just
32:24got a get a couple tabs made right here
32:27for the inner cooler, hang it up, and
32:29get the clamps on and that's all good to
32:30go. Oh, and we also need to add the
32:32blow-off valve as well. So, the blow-off
32:34valve was $45.60
32:36and that came with the clamp and a
32:38weld-on flange. Now, if we had the
32:40welder, which I do, we could just weld
32:42this on, make it nice and clean, but
32:44since I want to try to do this without
32:45welding, I spent an extra $14.30
32:48for a pre-welded piece right here and we
32:50are just going to cut our pipe short
32:54right here
32:56and we'll just attach this guy right to
32:57the turbo, then we'll put another
32:58straight coupler right there. Then we'll
33:00have our blow-off valve. So, we'll go
33:02ahead, throw that blow-off valve on
33:03there, get some tabs to hold up the
33:05inner cooler, and the entire charge
33:07system will be good to go.
33:21>> [music]
33:25>> So, we went ahead and got some super
33:27simple inner cooler mounts done. Just
33:28drilled a couple holes right down here
33:30and I put some nutserts into the
33:32radiator support. Now, if you don't have
33:34nutserts or the tool to do it, you could
33:35just nut and bolt it all the way
33:36through, but I'm assuming if you do this
33:38yourself, you'll
33:40do maybe a little bit better job, but
33:41just doing it quick and easy here. So,
33:43this is just some 1-in flat stock steel
33:46and we went ahead and painted those
33:48silver.
33:49And we're literally just going to
33:51bolt these guys on
33:53just like that. And before we get the
33:55inner cooler on, I'm going to go ahead
33:56and put this 360° swivel neck for the
34:00lower coolant line. This guy was $24.17
34:05off of Teemu. So, we got that along with
34:08the hardware. It's just easy to get to
34:09right now.
34:11And we just have the stock plastic
34:12housing right here and we're just going
34:14to go ahead and bolt this guy on. Now,
34:16you can just use the stock one, but
34:18having the
34:20billet one that moves
34:22around definitely
34:23makes it easier if you need to
34:26move that coolant line
34:27to the optimal position. Plus, it has a
34:29couple extra ports if you want to run
34:31like a coolant temp sensor, you need to
34:33tap into that for coolant for whatever
34:35reason.
34:35All right, so now we'll go ahead, throw
34:37our inner cooler back on.
34:50All right, that is nice and secure, not
34:52going to go anywhere as long as she's
34:53not falling off on us on the highway
34:55while we're blowing the doors off some
34:56Mustangs.
34:58Now we just got to get our last charge
34:59pipe on right here
35:01and our inner cooler
35:03and boost pipes are done. Other than the
35:05clamps. All right, now it's time to get
35:07this thing shifting. We had to pull out
35:09the factory D series shifter and we have
35:11to switch it over to cables for the K
35:13series and we got this guy right here.
35:15Now I don't know how they made this so
35:17freaking cheap out there overseas, but I
35:19got this shifter along with the cables
35:21and bracket that mounts to the
35:22transmission for $120.54.
35:26So we're going to go ahead and get this
35:27thing installed. All right guys, we're
35:28going to get this shifter bolted down.
35:30This might be a world record for the
35:31fastest shifter install ever in a K swap
35:34Civic. So we're not going to mess with
35:35any of this stuff right here. We got the
35:36plastic out of the way. We're just going
35:38to leave this guy as it is. Now there
35:40are some mounting plates and some things
35:41to do this a little bit better, but you
35:43know, time isn't free either and we're
35:45not adding that to the budget, so we're
35:46not going to waste more than we need to.
35:48All we're going to do
35:49is line the shifter up along these two
35:51holes right here that are already
35:53factory. These already line up with the
35:55holes on the shifter.
35:57So we're going to use our shifter as a
35:58quick template.
36:03Just like that. Now I'm going to take a
36:05punch
36:06just to give me a hole for the front two
36:08holes. Make sure she looks nice and
36:09straight.
36:14We got one.
36:17We got two.
36:19Now
36:22take those out. We're going to drill out
36:24those spots.
36:33>> Just like that. We're going to go ahead
36:35and throw a couple more nutserts in
36:36there. You could just nut and bolt it
36:38all the way through, but wouldn't be a
36:40cheap Civic build without some nutserts
36:42holding it together.
36:44Simple as that. Now I just throw the
36:46shifter right back on. Now we could add
36:48some spacers, make it fancy, but
36:51it'll do the job. It'll hold down nice
36:52and tight to this guy. We just got
36:54ourselves a little bit of a floating
36:56shifter going on.
37:05Just like that.
37:07She's good to go. Nice and solid.
37:11And now for the shifter cables, we are
37:13doing this also the most simple and
37:14quick way we can. And this is actually
37:16how I did it on my red hatch and it will
37:18work just fine. Now there is a hole in
37:20the bottom of the floor right here if
37:21you move the carpet out of the way. That
37:23is already there. All we're going to do
37:24is drill a second one with a small hole
37:26saw right next to it and that is where
37:28we are going to run the cables. You just
37:30got to move this carpet out of the way.
37:32Make sure that we don't hit any of these
37:33wires because I'm going to crawl under
37:34there and drill it from the underside of
37:36the car. Now if you're going full-blown
37:39race car and you don't have the heater
37:40core, uh the best way to route them is
37:42typically to go through the old heater
37:44core hole there and they actually have a
37:46nice plate that seals it up. Really
37:48fancy. Or you can actually cut more of
37:50that stuff out of the way if you want
37:51the cables to have just a straight shot
37:53to the transmission. Doing it this way
37:55they have a slight bend under the car
37:56and then they have to come back up over
37:58the subframe to the transmission, but it
38:00will still work just fine. And we
38:02literally just have to punch one hole
38:03out and run the cables and we're good to
38:05go. So we'll go ahead and hop up under
38:07here
38:08and knock it out real quick.
38:18So this is also something else I just
38:19came up with. Not sure if it will
38:21work, but I'm thinking if we kind of
38:24bend these holes just a little bit,
38:25it'll actually
38:28help from the corners or the edges of
38:30that metal from digging into the
38:32sheathing on the cable.
38:34If that makes sense, I think you guys
38:35can kind of see what I'm doing here.
38:37Kind of gives them a straighter shot
38:38because they have to
38:40come out of here and up over the
38:42subframe to the transmission. We want to
38:45give them
38:47the straightest path without binding up.
38:50All right, so now we're going to run our
38:51cables through. This one I can get done
38:53from up top,
38:55but the other one I have to feed in
38:56through the bottom because this side
38:58is too big to fit through that hole. So,
39:00I got to feed it in
39:01up and underneath. I didn't want to make
39:02the holes bigger than they needed to be
39:04and you can tell which ones go
39:07in the car because they're going to be
39:08the
39:09two thinner ones right here that fit in
39:11the shifter and then the two wider ones
39:12and obviously that big one
39:14goes out to the
39:16transmission. So, this guy we can just
39:18feed right through
39:20the hole we just drilled.
39:24Just like that. Perfect fit.
39:27Then, this one I'm going to go up under
39:28the car for.
39:34Just like that. I think putting that
39:36bend will definitely help
39:38the cables a bit. Then, we just get our
39:40cables
39:42put into the shifter here.
39:44I'm just going to set this guy to the
39:45middle setting.
39:47It has some options for different
39:48throws. So, we'll just throw it in right
39:50there. Call it good. All right, guys. We
39:52got the shifter and cables all installed
39:54here. We just got to get the clips on
39:56those guys and then some final
39:58adjusting, but otherwise we are good to
40:00go. One other thing I want to mention is
40:01that we did end up running the cables
40:03underneath the subframe.
40:05So, I originally had it going over like
40:07you guys saw, but the cables were a
40:09little longer
40:11to run it that way. So, this ate up some
40:13length to go up and under the subframe
40:15and it worked out much better. So, we
40:16might just need something to kind of
40:18hold those guys up right there, but
40:19otherwise
40:21they are all good to go
40:23and we are
40:25shifting, boys. Here we have first,
40:27second,
40:28third, fourth, fifth,
40:31and reverse. Going to be in here banging
40:34gears. I mean, the shifter does wiggle a
40:35little bit,
40:36but
40:38it'll be good.
40:39So, now we're going to go ahead and get
40:40started on the fuel system a little bit.
40:41This right here is a 450 L per hour pump
40:45that I got off Teemu for $50.73.
40:48Now, if this thing flows as much as it
40:50claims, this should be plenty for making
40:52500 horsepower. Came with the pump. We
40:55got a little sock, little plug with some
40:57wires coming off of it, and a tube. And
40:59this guy will go in place of the factory
41:02in-tank pump. So, we're going to go
41:04ahead and pull the factory fuel pump out
41:07of the Civic, get it replaced with this
41:09guy right here,
41:10and uh we should be ready to make some
41:12power. So, we went ahead and got the
41:13back seat cushion pulled out of the
41:15Civic here. That's real fun, the cover
41:17for the fuel pump. This has a few
41:19Phillips holding this guy on.
41:21We'll go ahead zip this off.
41:24This thing's still sealed up and
41:25everything. It's probably the first time
41:27that's been taken off. And the fuel pump
41:29is going to be under this guy right
41:30here. It has these six 10-mm nuts
41:33holding it on.
41:34We'll go ahead and pop the lines off
41:35first though, so we have the feed and
41:37the return.
41:38The return just has this little
41:40clamp holding it on.
41:45Get the return out of the way, and then
41:46the feed just has this little
41:48clip. You just push in on these tabs
41:50right here.
41:51Squeeze those guys in, and it should
41:53just slide off. There we go. Oh, we're
41:56leaking some fuel.
41:59We're leaking a lot of fuel.
42:01>> [laughter]
42:03>> We are leaking a lot of fuel, boys.
42:05It'll stop eventually though, right?
42:07Something to keep in mind if you're
42:08using power tools,
42:09the brush motor in these will make a
42:11spark. So, if you're working around gas,
42:14you need to take note of that. This is
42:15going to be plenty far away.
42:17But, if
42:18this trigger is hit and there is fuel up
42:20in there, it will ignite.
42:22So, you got to be careful about that.
42:23I'd recommend just using hand tools, but
42:26I'm yellowing it.
42:38I got to give her a couple shakes, you
42:39know, get the dribbles off.
42:44All right, and there it is.
42:46So, now we're just going to go ahead and
42:47pop this guy out and put the 450 in
42:50place. I was going to put the sock on
42:52the bottom of the fuel pump and it looks
42:53like the bottom of this guy is a little
42:55messed up right there. I don't think
42:57it's going to affect us too bad, but
43:00you know, just the risk you take when
43:01you order some of these
43:03cheaper components. But, we'll go ahead
43:05and get the sock pressed on there.
43:09Get this little
43:11cap off the top.
43:13So, now to wire it real quick, all I'm
43:15going to do is just cut the wires and
43:17add some
43:19basically spade connectors. These are
43:20like little bullet connectors right
43:22here.
43:23And, we're just going to get rid of the
43:24plugs completely. This guy will just
43:26rest in the factory bracket like that.
43:30I'm just going to go ahead, give these
43:31guys a snip.
43:33Let's go right
43:36there
43:37and
43:39right here.
43:41Go ahead and cut the plug off.
43:55All right, now we'll go ahead and cut
43:57our hose to length.
44:00We only need about that much.
44:07Get our clamps on there.
44:19Now this tightened up.
44:23All right. Now we just plug everything
44:24in and we are good to go.
44:32There you have it. Got our new 450 on
44:34the hanger with the sock wired in, super
44:37simple.
44:38Slap it back in and we're good to go.
44:43Now we got it back in there. We just got
44:44to make sure it goes back in the basket
44:48where it belongs.
44:55Now we'll just go ahead and clip
44:56everything back together cuz we are just
44:57going to use
44:59the factory lines.
45:01The factory lines on these
45:03are good for
45:04I'd say up to around 6, maybe 700
45:06horsepower. Then about there, you're
45:08going to have to
45:10start running full aftermarket lines
45:13to go any more. So we're all back
45:14together with the new pump here
45:17and I wanted to mention that we are just
45:20using the stock wiring right now. So I
45:22just plugged it back in with the OEM
45:25plug on top here
45:26and I haven't tried this
45:29yet, but we're going to do it with this
45:31car. Typically when you run an
45:32aftermarket pump, what's best to do is
45:34run a dedicated power line from the
45:36battery or somewhere on the fuse box,
45:37something like that and actually run
45:39that to a relay to make sure the fuel
45:41pump has enough juice, but I just talked
45:43to my buddy Brent
45:45over at PFI. I asked if they have
45:47customer cars that just can get away
45:48with the stock plug, if they can if it
45:50can actually support that. He says all
45:52that usually happens is it will blow the
45:53factory fuse. It's a 15 amp fuse for the
45:56fuel pump and he said if you upgrade
45:58that, you should be able to get away
45:59with it. So that's what we're going to
46:00try to do on this car is just upgrade
46:02the factory
46:03fuel pump fuse because this aftermarket
46:05one will draw some more amps and if we
46:07don't, it will pop the 15 amper, but he
46:09said just throw a 30 in there and you
46:11should be good. So, that's what we're
46:12going to try to do. And if that works
46:14out,
46:15super simple install and we didn't have
46:16to do any extra wiring or anything like
46:18that. So, now that we got the fuel pump
46:19installed, I'm over here at this other
46:21table where I got my injector machine
46:23set up because we're getting ready to
46:25throw the fuel rail and injectors onto
46:28the car. Now, a fuel rail is nothing
46:29crazy, just a generic no-name K20 fuel
46:32rail. Got this off Temu for $41.34.
46:36And I'm really interested in the
46:39injectors right here. So, I got all four
46:41of these injectors right here for
46:43$56.02, which comes out to $14 each. And
46:48I am very skeptical at how well these
46:50are going to work, but after they showed
46:53up, they honestly look pretty good. I
46:55mean, they look like any other
46:56high-performance aftermarket injector.
46:58They have the EV1 plug on there. And
47:00these were listed as a 210 lb/hr
47:04injector, which is roughly a 2200 cc
47:07injector, which if they actually flow
47:09that and do a good job, a good enough
47:12job, I mean, we should easily be able to
47:13make the power we're going for. The
47:15question is how long
47:17will these last? Will they have any
47:19issues at that power at high flow rates?
47:21Who knows? They're literally $14 each
47:23and I just had to get a set to see how
47:26they do. Now, injectors are definitely
47:28one of the parts you don't want to cheap
47:29out on on a build because if anything
47:31goes wrong, if a cylinder leans out, it
47:34could just kill your engine right away
47:36because the air-fuel mixture is very
47:39important. So, I'm going to give it a
47:41shot, see how these do. I have my
47:42injector flow machine right here. It's
47:44not the greatest, but we're going to go
47:45ahead and plug them in and make sure
47:46that the spray patterns look all right,
47:48make sure nothing is out of the
47:49ordinary. And if they all flow,
47:51you know, within a reasonable amount of
47:53each other, we're going to stick them in
47:54and see what happens.
47:56All right.
47:58Let's get these Temu injectors in the
48:00machine and see what we got going on.
48:03I'll be honest, I probably got this
48:04injector machine off Temu.
48:10All right.
48:12We're making fuel pressure.
48:14Let's plug these suckers in. I'll
48:16honestly be pretty shocked if these work
48:18out.
48:19They are so cheap. All right, well, here
48:21we go. We're set to 4,000 RPM.
48:27Oh, there they go.
48:35I mean,
48:36that is
48:38not bad. They're all flowing very close.
48:42I'd say the spray patterns looked a
48:44little uneven between the four,
48:46but they all put out like an identical
48:49amount of fuel.
48:53That's 2,000 RPM. See, this one looks a
48:55little wider and these kind of look more
48:57narrow
48:58on the pattern, but I mean,
49:01dude, they're spraying.
49:04In very even amounts, so that's what I'm
49:06mostly concerned about. I don't know how
49:08well they're going to work, but they're
49:09going to work.
49:27I mean, this one's running away a little
49:28bit, but
49:30you know what, boys?
49:31We're going to send it. See what these
49:33Temu injectors do. We'll get them in the
49:35car. All right.
49:37See if these guys fit.
49:40Oh, yeah, nice and tight. That's a good
49:41sign.
49:43All right, get our rail on there.
49:45Nice. Now, I did have to make a couple
49:48spacers just out of some aluminum tubing
49:51to space this
49:53on the intake manifold.
49:55So, I did have to go to the hardware
49:56store and uh
49:58grab some of that. So, we'll call that
50:00another 10 bucks.
50:03So, right now I'm working on the feed
50:04line after we got that fuel rail
50:06installed and I'm just going to make
50:07this
50:08really uh cheap and simple here. So, we
50:10have the factory fuel filter still. I
50:12just went ahead and unbolted that off of
50:13the firewall.
50:15I'm going to go ahead and actually
50:17completely remove it from this bracket.
50:21Get this guy out of the way.
50:23So, now we can kind of bend the fuel
50:25filter wherever we need it. We have the
50:26factory hardline right there. We just
50:28want to be very careful not to kink
50:29this, but we need to make some room
50:30right here because we are just going to
50:32have an up pipe on this thing. So, the
50:34exhaust is going to be
50:35right in this area. So, I'm going to see
50:38about either bending it
50:40just nice and tight up against the
50:41firewall as tight as possible or
50:43possibly down
50:45here into this cavity where the old uh
50:47evap canister used to be. You can see
50:49the mount right there. If I can get this
50:50down and out of the way
50:52just to keep it uh all the way from the
50:53exhaust, that'd be great. But, what I'm
50:55actually doing for the feed line is I
50:57took the stock one and I cut this end
50:59off. Now, they do make some banjo
51:02adapters, which I ordered and I had this
51:05guy that I got off to Teemu, but the
51:06banjo for the banjo right here wasn't
51:08the right one. It's a little too big.
51:10So,
51:11this would have been nice cuz we could
51:12have just went right to the rail off of
51:14that filter, but didn't quite fit. So,
51:16I'm just going to use the stock one and
51:17all we're going to do is take a
51:19male-to-male barb, but I just went to
51:20the parts store and got this guy and I
51:22also got just some fuel line and some
51:24hose clamps. We're just going to stick
51:26this in there and extend this
51:29off of
51:31the filter and then using the fittings
51:33that came with the rail, we'll just go
51:35ahead and clamp that right on. So,
51:37another piece of the fuel system that we
51:38are going to need is a fuel pressure
51:39regulator. I got this guy right here off
51:41of Teemu for $29.31.
51:45Comes with the fuel pressure regulator
51:47itself. We got another fuel pressure
51:49gauge and a whole bunch of dash six AN
51:52fittings to go along with it. So, I
51:53think we got the fuel system figured out
51:55here. So, I just got the stock filter
51:57pushed all the way down just like we
51:59were talking about. It's a little dangle
52:01right now. Maybe we'll
52:03zip tie hose clamp that to something so
52:04it's not bouncing around, but it's nice
52:06and out of the way of any exhaust
52:07components. I also had to take this
52:10front brake line right here and push it
52:12up against the firewall because it
52:13originally came out and around where the
52:16battery box or the tray was. So, we had
52:18to get that out of the way since we're
52:20planning on having an exhaust run up
52:21through here. And then I just went ahead
52:23and got that male to male barb fitting
52:25on the
52:26feed there. So, we connected that to our
52:28hose from the part store. That will go
52:29into this side of the rail. And then for
52:33the regulator, I had a dash six male to
52:36dash eight male ORB. So, this can
52:39actually just go straight to the fuel
52:41rail, which will make this nice and
52:43simple instead of mounting it, which you
52:45can always do. But, this will
52:47clean up a couple extra hoses that we're
52:49not going to need. So, we'll just get
52:50this guy screwed on the rail
52:52nice and tight. I'll have to really get
52:54her into place. And then once that's on
52:56there,
52:57uh I got this side plugged up already
52:59and all we need is a fitting off the
53:01bottom, which the regulator came with a
53:04barb fitting. So, we're just going to
53:06screw that guy on there and then we'll
53:07just cut another piece of hose that will
53:09press onto that and we'll clamp it and
53:11then that will run to the factory return
53:13tube right down there.
53:16And then we'll be all good to go on the
53:18fuel system.
53:19Should be good. So,
53:21get that done and we can move on to just
53:23finalizing a lot of this stuff because
53:24we're starting to get real close. We
53:26just got to get wastegate on. We still
53:28have to get oil feed and return to the
53:30turbo. Get the wiring in there and I
53:32mean it is getting very close, guys. All
53:35right. Now, we're going to get some
53:36axles in this thing. If you look right
53:37down here, I found myself a set of axles
53:40off of Marketplace. This guy was parting
53:42out a K-swapped EK and I messaged him if
53:45you have the axles and he did. So, for
53:46$300 I got the driver and passenger axle
53:50here along with a RSX intermediate or
53:53half shaft right here. So, these are the
53:56base model style RSX axles that have
53:58these smaller outer spline right here
53:59with the 32 mil axle nut. You got to be
54:03sure that they will fit the spindles
54:04that you have because if you got like
54:06the Type-S RSX axles, those are going to
54:07have the bigger spline that is the the
54:0936 mil axle nut. So, these are the
54:11smaller ones that fit the factory EK hub
54:13I got right there and these things
54:15should hold up fine. People have gone
54:1710-second quarters on just stock axles,
54:19probably even faster. Uh but you do run
54:21the risk of snapping them obviously at
54:23the drag strip because they are the
54:25smaller splines there, but if you're
54:26just ripping this thing down the road
54:27and you don't have a super aggressive
54:28tire on it, these things will last you
54:31all day. But uh yeah, we're going to go
54:32ahead, get all of this stuff on there
54:34and uh our drive line will be good to
54:36go. All right, got the half shaft going
54:38in.
54:41Just like that and then the half shaft
54:43bolts I got from the junkyard when we
54:45pulled the K24.
54:46You got the two shouldered bolts
54:50that go right here to line everything
54:52up. These are important.
54:54And you got the one regular one that
54:55goes right there. You want to be careful
54:57tightening these guys in these are
54:58famous for stripping.
55:01It can happen pretty easily. So, just
55:02get them nice and snug.
55:04Getting this guy on the half shaft.
55:07If you don't know, you can basically use
55:08the axle as a slide hammer. You can go
55:11just
55:13ram it on there like that. Good to go.
55:25And this side should just slide right in
55:27like that.
55:31Okay.
55:33Put it back in the lower ball joint.
55:37Now, all we got to do is put the uh fork
55:39and everything back together.
55:41This side's good to go.
55:49All right, now the driver side.
55:52Get this guy in there.
55:54Once again, little slide hammer action.
55:58And she goes right in.
56:00So, I went ahead and pulled the turbo
56:01manifold back off the car cuz we got
56:03some stuff that needs to go on before we
56:04can put it back on for the final time.
56:07Now, I mentioned that we were just
56:08mocking stuff up. I didn't have any of
56:10the gaskets on. These right here are the
56:12gaskets that came with the turbo
56:14manifold. So, we got this one right
56:15there that goes straight to the head,
56:16and then we got the T3 flange gasket
56:20that goes in between the manifold and
56:21the turbo. Now, these style
56:23specifically, these
56:25thick ones with all these holes on them,
56:26I'm not sure what the proper name for
56:27these are. Uh they have a special way
56:29that you need to install these, and you
56:31need to watch and listen very carefully.
56:32So, what you need to do is come over
56:33here, and you're going to grab it real
56:36firmly, and you're just going to
56:38throw it in the trash because those
56:40suck. So,
56:41we got a used multi-layer
56:44OEM gasket right here. The junkyard is
56:47your friend. I'd rather slap the used
56:49gasket on the car than use one of those.
56:51And uh if you don't grab a used one,
56:53order a new OEM style multi-layer steel
56:56gasket because those will blow out very
56:59quickly. If you guys have used them
57:01before, you know what I'm talking about.
57:02So, I got our used gasket going back on,
57:06and then the turbo actually came with
57:08the proper
57:10steel gasket in the bag right here. So,
57:12we're going to be using that for the
57:13turbo. Now,
57:15while the turbo manifold's out, I'm also
57:16going to get the wastegate on there.
57:18This right here is going to be our gate.
57:19It's a 44 mm V-band wastegate. Came with
57:22all the clamps, different rings for
57:24different boost levels, and most
57:25importantly, this little fire ring right
57:27here. If you're new to turbo and cars,
57:28you got to make sure you get the fire
57:29ring in there, or else it will not seal
57:31up right cuz that actually seats up
57:32against the valve. But we'll go ahead
57:34and get that clamped on while it's
57:35outside of the car.
57:37And then we can rotate it where it needs
57:38to be in the car. And then it even came
57:39with a flange for us to build a dump
57:41tube. And then the last thing while the
57:43manifold is out, since the oil filter's
57:45very easy to get to, we're going to go
57:46ahead and install our oil filter
57:49sandwich plate right here. This is what
57:50we're going to use to get oil fed to the
57:54turbo. It came with some extra fittings.
57:55We'll pull one of these guys out. And
57:57this will be for our oil feed. Now, this
58:00guy right here was uh $17.96.
58:03And the blow-off valve, or the wastegate
58:05I mean, was $50.09.
58:08So, we can go ahead and start getting
58:10that onto manifold, get everything back
58:12together, and tighten it all up for the
58:14final time.
58:15>> [music]
58:21[music]
58:35[music]
58:49[music]
58:56[music]
59:05>> We're getting real close, guys. She's
59:07starting to look complete under the hood
59:09here. Uh the turbo's still loose. Got
59:11some final things we got to figure out
59:14there once we get to the uh radiator and
59:16coolant. Plus I got to pull it back off
59:17to lock in all the bolts since I clocked
59:20everything where that needs to go. Got
59:21the oil feed on after we got that
59:23sandwich plate on there. And uh now
59:25we're moving on to the oil return from
59:27the turbo. So I got the drain fitting on
59:31the turbo. And I went ahead and made up
59:33a line right here. This is just dash 10
59:35with two 45s on each side. And then I
59:37also went ahead and put this heat shield
59:40over it. They had this roller heat
59:41shield on Teemu. This has like a
59:42fiberglass inside with a silicone
59:45outside. It was like 12 bucks for the
59:46roll. I believe the dash 10 AN kit was
59:48like 50 bucks. And then I got these
59:51guys. They came in a two pack. These
59:52were like 10 bucks. So I'll add all that
59:54to the prices as well.
59:56Um what we're going to do instead of
59:57welding a bung to the oil pan is we just
59:59got this bulkhead right here and we'll
1:00:01just drill our hole through the pan and
1:00:03this will tighten from the inside. And
1:00:06we can connect our oil drain from the
1:00:07turbo to the pan. I got to make sure
1:00:09that there's nothing on the back side of
1:00:10the pan that's going to hit on this
1:00:12bulkhead. We can shave it down if we
1:00:13need to. But I'm hoping we should be
1:00:16able to just
1:00:17go in there without anything in the way.
1:00:18This is actually how I turboed
1:00:20my hatch when I did it for the very
1:00:21first time before I welded anything to
1:00:23my pans. But if you have access to a
1:00:26welder, I would just recommend getting a
1:00:27steel weld on dash 10 bung and do it
1:00:30that way. It's what we do. But for those
1:00:32that don't have the welder,
1:00:33we got this guy. And we went ahead and
1:00:35pulled the bolts off of the oil pan.
1:00:38And this is probably the first time it's
1:00:39ever been pried off. So it's going to be
1:00:42pretty stuck on there.
1:00:44So if you haven't pried off a K-series
1:00:45oil pan yet,
1:00:47you're in for a treat, especially if
1:00:48it's an OEM one.
1:00:50Cuz it's going to take a second. And
1:00:53hopefully
1:00:55our junkyard motor doesn't give us any
1:00:57surprises.
1:01:02>> [music]
1:01:03>> OH, THAT'S A GOOD SOUND right there. I
1:01:06don't know if the mic picks it up, but
1:01:07it went ting ting tong tong tong.
1:01:10>> [music]
1:01:11>> That's how you know she's coming.
1:01:14It would have been a lot better on the
1:01:15lift, but you know,
1:01:17we can still get down and dirty on the
1:01:18ground.
1:01:20Please have no metal shavings in here.
1:01:31Like a junkyard K.
1:01:33Look how watery that oil is.
1:01:37All right, well.
1:01:39It's a good sign.
1:01:40No metal chunks and
1:01:44I want to put the bung right here where
1:01:46it's flat because
1:01:47it does have some ridges right here. We
1:01:49want a wide flat part of it. So, we can
1:01:51either go here
1:01:53or here. And there's a chance this could
1:01:55even utilize the AC compressor in the
1:01:57future. So, I'm going to try to
1:01:59put it off to this side right here.
1:02:00Plus, the hose can be a little shorter.
1:02:02And that's where I made it to go right
1:02:03here on this flat spot. And if you look
1:02:05up under here,
1:02:07there should be nothing in the way other
1:02:08than this windage tray. So, I just got
1:02:10to make sure I put it low enough
1:02:12that it clears the windage tray and we
1:02:13should be good. And there's the factory
1:02:15K24 style pump, that big old thing.
1:02:18If you wanted to take the extra step
1:02:20before the engine went in the car, you
1:02:21could do a type S pump on it and you
1:02:24could rev the car a little higher and
1:02:26you'll just have better oil flow and
1:02:28less chance of cavitating. But, the
1:02:30stock pump will uh get us by for what we
1:02:33need to do.
1:02:34So, we'll drill our hole, get that bung
1:02:36on there,
1:02:37go back together with it.
1:02:44>> [music]
1:02:48[music]
1:03:04>> All right, I got the hole drilled
1:03:05through the pan, got our bulkhead on
1:03:07there for the
1:03:08oil return off of the turbo. I went
1:03:10ahead and got the oil pan all cleaned
1:03:12off and we are ready to
1:03:13get this thing sealed back up and put it
1:03:15back on the car. Just went to the parts
1:03:16store, got a tube of Ultra Black. This
1:03:18was $12.49.
1:03:21And I didn't notice this when we first
1:03:23pulled the pan off, but it still has the
1:03:26plug in it that they put in there at the
1:03:28junkyard cuz they freaking punched a
1:03:29hole in the pan to drain the oil and
1:03:31then they put this expandable rubber
1:03:33plug right there. Now,
1:03:35you'd normally want to weld that guy up
1:03:37or patch it up. We're just going to send
1:03:39it. I don't think she should leak. I
1:03:41don't know why they couldn't just pull
1:03:42the drain plug and then zip it back in
1:03:44real quick, but we have a rubber plug
1:03:47still in the pan from the junkyard and
1:03:49we're just going to let it ride.
1:03:50Hopefully when the oil
1:03:51heats up and stuff, it doesn't cause
1:03:53that to leak, but it's in there pretty
1:03:55good. I filled it up with water to make
1:03:56sure it wasn't dripping, so we're
1:03:58sending the junkyard pan. We'll seal it
1:04:00up, get it back on the car.
1:04:08I might be using more than I need right
1:04:09here, but
1:04:11that's all right.
1:04:15You know, we get a little bit on there.
1:04:17Seal up that junkyard plug a little bit.
1:04:24Should be good, right?
1:04:27All right, pan going back on. We also
1:04:29made sure to clean off
1:04:31the bottom of the block of all the old
1:04:35silicone. [music]
1:04:37Back together we go.
1:04:42So, the oil pan is tight and something
1:04:44that I like to do on the K-series is in
1:04:45between the bolt holes, just take an
1:04:47extension and lightly
1:04:49kind of tap
1:04:51all the way around just to make sure
1:04:53it's butted up, especially
1:04:56near the points where you pried on the
1:04:57pan
1:04:58cuz after you pry on these,
1:05:00sometimes they don't go on perfectly
1:05:02flat.
1:05:04And especially between the two bolts
1:05:05back here by the transmission cuz
1:05:07there's not a third one in the center.
1:05:10Just lightly tap it up in there, kind of
1:05:11make sure
1:05:14that it's nice and flat
1:05:16and that it seals good. So, we're
1:05:17getting to a point where we're ready to
1:05:19start mocking up our new wiring harness
1:05:20in this thing. And before we got all
1:05:23that on there with the coils and all
1:05:24that good stuff, we were going to go
1:05:25ahead and swap the plugs out. Now, we
1:05:27pulled the first spark plug out of
1:05:29cylinder number one
1:05:30and she came out a little rough. They're
1:05:32kind of rusty and crusty in there from
1:05:34the junkyard. And we went to pull the
1:05:36next ones out and they were even
1:05:37crustier than number one. So, we went
1:05:41ahead and sprayed some PB Blaster down
1:05:43in the holes and we've been letting them
1:05:44sit for like 10 minutes.
1:05:46And figured I'd film this part in case
1:05:48anything goes wrong here cuz they're a
1:05:50little
1:05:51rusty on the way out, but hopefully we
1:05:53can get them out okay here and I get
1:05:55some fresh ones in there.
1:05:57But,
1:05:59it's kind of sketch.
1:06:01There's nothing we can do now but hope
1:06:02they come out all right.
1:06:05I don't know if the mic can pick that
1:06:06up, but
1:06:08they're crunchy.
1:06:10The PB Blaster definitely helped though.
1:06:12She's freeing up. I think we're good.
1:06:22Oh, yeah.
1:06:24Good to go there. Those plugs are
1:06:26gone.
1:06:32Number three, no problem. Oh, yeah.
1:06:36PB Blaster's working great.
1:06:38Number four is the one we're the most
1:06:39concerned about though.
1:06:41Two and four were a little rough.
1:06:44Yeah, number three came out, no problem.
1:06:46All right, number four.
1:06:48This one did not want to budge.
1:06:53She's so tight.
1:06:56I don't like that at all.
1:07:03Try to wiggle it around a little bit,
1:07:05break her free.
1:07:09Come on.
1:07:14All right. I think we're good. I think
1:07:16we're good.
1:07:20There's number four. What is that?
1:07:22There's some like
1:07:24plastic around it.
1:07:27Huh. Might need to
1:07:29blow that guy out. There's some bits of
1:07:31plastic down in the hole.
1:07:33But at least they came out, all right.
1:07:35That's a good sign.
1:07:37Oh, yeah.
1:07:38There's some stuff in there.
1:07:41>> [screaming]
1:07:43>> We've got some new spark plugs going in.
1:07:44These are a NGK 4554 is the stock number
1:07:48on them. These are what we used to
1:07:49always run few years back when all the
1:07:51cars were on K-Pro's, back when the
1:07:52Odyssey had a K-Pro on it because
1:07:55as you're going to see shortly, that's
1:07:56what we're putting on this. And we might
1:07:58have to change plugs on the dyno. We're
1:08:00going to see how it acts. These are
1:08:01non-resistor plug. Uh, we'll also run
1:08:03the BKR9s.
1:08:04But, uh, these should do the job and
1:08:06they had them in stock. They were $11.29
1:08:09each at the part store. Freaking spark
1:08:11plugs are getting pricey nowadays.
1:08:13But, uh, we'll probably go ahead and gap
1:08:15those once we're actually at the dyno.
1:08:16Make sure everything checks out first.
1:08:19But, once we get these plugs in there,
1:08:20we can move on to
1:08:22the harness, ECU, and uh, we've got a
1:08:24couple more sensors that need to go in.
1:08:26And we might just hear this thing run
1:08:27here in a few.
1:08:29What I'm about to show you next is what
1:08:30really got the whole team who Civic idea
1:08:33going in my head, and that is the wiring
1:08:34harness. When I saw the price on these
1:08:36guys right here,
1:08:37it's what led me to think, "What else
1:08:39can you get for this cheap?" Because I
1:08:41was just shocked when I first found out
1:08:43about these harnesses a while ago. So,
1:08:45this right here is a complete RSX engine
1:08:49harness, you know? Basic K-series
1:08:50harness. It has all of the connectors on
1:08:53it. Has everything to go to the coils,
1:08:55injectors, all of it. All the way back
1:08:57here to the ECU plugs and the chassis
1:09:00plug.
1:09:01And this entire harness right here,
1:09:03guys, to me one of the most shocking
1:09:04purchases on Temu. Everything else was
1:09:07extremely cheap, but
1:09:09just
1:09:10trying to source all the parts would
1:09:12cost way more than this. But this was
1:09:14$54.62
1:09:17for the entire engine harness, which is
1:09:19just insane to me. Now, we've already
1:09:21used one of these on the K-series Crown
1:09:23Vic, so we know they work, but some of
1:09:25them do have some pins that need to be
1:09:27flipped around, but otherwise, it's all
1:09:30there. And if you're willing to take the
1:09:32extra time to just go through it, make
1:09:33sure it's good, make sure all the wires
1:09:36are going where they need to go, it's
1:09:37like they can really can't mess it up.
1:09:39You know, some of these other parts
1:09:40might fail, a turbo might explode, but
1:09:42you know, wiring harness is
1:09:44pretty straightforward. And that's just
1:09:45crazy that they make it that cheap. So,
1:09:47literally 54 bucks for the engine
1:09:49harness. I ordered two of them just in
1:09:50case there's any issues, I have a backup
1:09:52one. So,
1:09:54we'll get that on there. And then we
1:09:55also have the Hondata right here. This
1:09:56is just a KPro. This is a version one
1:09:59KPro that I got off of Marketplace. This
1:10:01has the green board on it. You'll pay a
1:10:02little bit more if you want like a
1:10:04version three or four with Bluetooth,
1:10:06but this one I was able to get for 600
1:10:07bucks on Marketplace. And then we have a
1:10:09couple sensors that we need to throw in
1:10:11the car. We got the TPS, which I found
1:10:13on Temu for $5.06.
1:10:16Extremely cheap. That's actually very
1:10:18shocking as well. Uh but the MAP sensor
1:10:20I had to source elsewhere online. I just
1:10:22looked online and found the cheapest one
1:10:23I could. This guy I was able to get
1:10:25shipped to my house for $42.95,
1:10:28which is only $10 less than the entire
1:10:31engine harness.
1:10:32That just still blows me away. So, yeah,
1:10:34once I saw that engine harness,
1:10:36it just started snowballing. I'm like,
1:10:37"Dude, you could build a car for so
1:10:39cheap off of Temu if they had
1:10:40everything." And sure enough, they
1:10:42somehow have 90% of what you need to do
1:10:44it. So, go ahead, get this thing on the
1:10:46car.
1:10:58All right, guys, we got the wiring
1:10:59harness plugged in here. There are a
1:11:00couple things that we need to change
1:11:02before it's all ready to go. So, first
1:11:04of all, the injectors are the wrong
1:11:05plug. These are for the factory Honda
1:11:08injectors, which would be fine if we're
1:11:09just running this thing NA with the
1:11:10factory injectors, but we got the other
1:11:13ones on there and these are an EV1 style
1:11:15plug. You could just get some adapters.
1:11:17I don't like running adapters, so I
1:11:19actually found a set of four EV1
1:11:21pigtails on Teemu for $5.53. We're just
1:11:24going to cut those off, throw these on
1:11:26there and the injectors will be good to
1:11:28go. The other thing we need to change
1:11:29out is the crank position sensor. This
1:11:31is the one that came out of our K24. If
1:11:33you look right here, the tab is offset
1:11:36and all of these aftermarket RSX
1:11:38harnesses are going to have
1:11:41basically a K20 style sensor.
1:11:44There's some more facts there, but you
1:11:45could basically break it down as this is
1:11:46a K24 and what you need is a K20 sensor
1:11:50where the tab is in the center right
1:11:53there cuz the K24 one will not plug in
1:11:55to this harness. Now, if you get the
1:11:57right plug, you could just cut it off
1:11:59and swap it. They also make little
1:12:00adapters. These sensors are
1:12:02interchangeable. It's literally just the
1:12:04difference in the plug and they are
1:12:06pinned differently. But, for us, it's
1:12:09just going to be easy enough to grab a
1:12:10new sensor that plugs right in. So, we
1:12:12got the K20 style sensor going into the
1:12:1424. That was not on Teemu. I got that
1:12:17off RockAuto. The cheapest one they had
1:12:18was like $15 and some change. But, yeah.
1:12:22After we get those done, everything as
1:12:24far as the wiring goes under the hood
1:12:25should just be about good to go.
1:12:31>> [music]
1:12:52>> So, So, we're going to go ahead and get
1:12:53the radiator in this thing. And we also
1:12:55have another coolant component right
1:12:56here, and that is the coolant housing
1:12:59that goes on the side of the head. It's
1:13:01just a full billet piece. It also has
1:13:02the option
1:13:04to have the
1:13:05coolant fill neck on it, but we also
1:13:06have the fill neck on the top of our
1:13:08radiator right here. So, whichever one
1:13:09of those is at the higher level is what
1:13:11we will use. But, this guy was $52.72,
1:13:16and the radiator itself was $64.22
1:13:21off of Temu. Now, we already went ahead
1:13:23and mocked this up a little bit in the
1:13:25car. I'll go ahead and show you real
1:13:27quick. So, we actually have these two
1:13:28tabs
1:13:29on the driver side
1:13:32of the radiator support, because with
1:13:34the K series
1:13:35we're going to put the radiator over
1:13:36here, and these two tabs were right
1:13:38there. And we went ahead and spot
1:13:40drilled the spot welds out, and got
1:13:41those out of the way, because with the
1:13:43intake and stuff over there the radiator
1:13:45has to fit right here. And with those
1:13:46out of the way
1:13:48we're able to get the radiator
1:13:50down in there,
1:13:51and it kind of rests on this ledge right
1:13:53here.
1:13:55And it fits in there pretty decent.
1:13:57Just like that. I did also order a
1:13:59radiator hose kit off of Temu, but these
1:14:01guys were a little too tight to actually
1:14:03fit over
1:14:05the uh end right there. And with this
1:14:06charge pipe in the way
1:14:08we really kind of had to figure
1:14:09something out. And what I ended up doing
1:14:11was just repurposing the
1:14:14coolant tubes that came with the K24. I
1:14:16was able to cut these, and I think I'll
1:14:17be able to route them in a way
1:14:19that will work. And then the radiator
1:14:20and all the coolant should be good to
1:14:22go. So, I think I can kind of finagle
1:14:23this guy under there, and then this one
1:14:24should work for that lower hose.
1:14:28And I think we'll be good. Well, that
1:14:29should do the trick. Got the radiator in
1:14:31there. There's no mounts holding it on.
1:14:32Just with the hoses attached and this
1:14:34inner cooler tube right here, I mean it
1:14:36can't go anywhere. So, we're just going
1:14:38to run it like that. We just got to get
1:14:40the clamps on there. But, as you can
1:14:41see, we were able to just kind of come
1:14:43underneath
1:14:44the uh throttle body right there, up
1:14:47into the
1:14:48coolant housing on the side of the head,
1:14:50and then we got the lower coolant line
1:14:53going to that 360° billet swivel piece
1:14:56right there. So,
1:14:58made good use of the old junkyard
1:15:00coolant lines. And then for the heater
1:15:02core, we're not going to run it for
1:15:04right now. I want to be able to hook it
1:15:06up in the future. So, the heater core
1:15:07lines are just currently unhooked, and I
1:15:10pushed this valve down out of the way.
1:15:12And all we're going to do right now is
1:15:13there's a fitting off the back of that
1:15:15housing, and this guy will go back into
1:15:19place as if the factory
1:15:21uh tube that runs to the heater core
1:15:23from
1:15:24the K-series that we got at the
1:15:25junkyard. We just are going to put this
1:15:26guy back in. We're also running the same
1:15:29L-shaped tube that goes from this
1:15:31housing to the bottom of the intake
1:15:33manifold. You can't really see it under
1:15:34there, but we put that back, and then
1:15:36this guy is just going to go
1:15:38right back in place, and this will go up
1:15:40under the turbo.
1:15:42And then all we're going to do for right
1:15:43now is we got a nipple right here that I
1:15:45need to cap off, and we're just going to
1:15:47loop the lines in the back just for
1:15:50right now and call it good. And then our
1:15:52coolant system is good to go. We're
1:15:54going to wait till we make sure
1:15:55everything is running and sounds okay
1:15:57before we actually fill this thing up
1:15:58with any fluids water-wise, and uh
1:16:01go from there. So, now that we got the
1:16:02wiring harness plugged into the car,
1:16:04everything is good to go in the engine
1:16:06bay, and now we're going to go ahead and
1:16:07try to get the ECU connected in the car.
1:16:10Now, I went ahead and got a conversion
1:16:13harness. They do offer these on Teemu,
1:16:16and if you're doing a swap on like an EG
1:16:18or an older
1:16:20EK,
1:16:21they are very cheap. But for the '99 to
1:16:232000 specifically, which this one is,
1:16:26they didn't have the option for it. So,
1:16:27I did have to get this one elsewhere,
1:16:28but it was still very cheap to find one
1:16:30of these online. I got this for $80. And
1:16:32what this basically does is it's just a
1:16:34conversion harness to adapt
1:16:37the factory D-series EK chassis stuff to
1:16:41the new RSX harness. So, it makes wiring
1:16:44up everything just extremely simple.
1:16:46You'll get all the powers that you need
1:16:48from when the key comes on to power up
1:16:50the ECU, and it just makes everything
1:16:53work. It's just plug and play, super
1:16:56simple. So, my hope is we just plug all
1:16:57this stuff in,
1:16:59hit the ignition on the key with the
1:17:01battery, and we see that ECU light up.
1:17:03If that happens, and we hear the fuel
1:17:05pump prime, then I know we're good to
1:17:07go. So, this thing still had the battery
1:17:09in it from when the D series was in
1:17:10there, and I was really hoping it was
1:17:11still good. I put it on a battery
1:17:12charger hoping it would come back, but
1:17:14unfortunately, the battery was bad. So,
1:17:16I took it out, uh brought it to the
1:17:18parts store for a core, and I swapped it
1:17:21out for the cheapest possible battery
1:17:23they had at the parts store. I got this
1:17:25unit right here, good old Econocraft.
1:17:28This was $100 with my core added to it.
1:17:33And uh
1:17:35she is going to power the K series team
1:17:37up Civic here.
1:17:38And I got the battery tray. I'm just
1:17:39going to go ahead and rest this in there
1:17:41for right now, and I actually
1:17:44have the uh factory starter wire in
1:17:47there still.
1:17:49Once I get this guy situated, and I
1:17:52think it will reach to the starter.
1:17:54So, we're going to have to extend it
1:17:57once we're actually ready to
1:18:01rip on it, but I think this wire will
1:18:03make it to the starter. But, for right
1:18:04now,
1:18:05let me see if the key's
1:18:07on. Let me turn it off real quick.
1:18:12Okay.
1:18:14Key's off. We're going to go ahead
1:18:17and hit the power.
1:18:20Nice little arc right there.
1:18:23And now, we're going to go over here
1:18:26and hit the key,
1:18:29and see if this computer comes on.
1:18:35All right, well, no fuel pump.
1:18:37I don't have that ground hooked up.
1:18:40And the ECU is not on. So, maybe that
1:18:43ground is important. Let me hook that
1:18:44up. So, not only was this ground not
1:18:46hooked up, I got that just going to the
1:18:48fender for right now, but also
1:18:50this
1:18:51ground on the engine wasn't hooked up,
1:18:52and then I realized
1:18:54I don't think the engine itself is
1:18:55grounded very well. I didn't do an
1:18:56engine ground yet. So, we got the
1:18:58temporary engine ground right here.
1:19:01Always check your grounds. We're going
1:19:02to try it again
1:19:04and see if she comes on.
1:19:07All right.
1:19:14Oh.
1:19:15There it is. We got a light, and I heard
1:19:17the fuel pump kick on.
1:19:20I mean, we haven't even checked the fuel
1:19:21system.
1:19:22Nothing's spraying up there. Oh. Oh.
1:19:25Wait, are we good? No.
1:19:27We're not good?
1:19:29Oh, yeah, that's bad.
1:19:32That's real bad.
1:19:33And we're leaking out of the the
1:19:35regulator a little bit.
1:19:37All right. Well, we will get this
1:19:39addressed, and we'll be right back. Fuel
1:19:40leak was pretty simple. Looks like two
1:19:42of the O-rings just got pinched
1:19:44going in. So, I have some extras. We're
1:19:47just going to replace those.
1:19:48And then, we should be good to go. And
1:19:50then,
1:19:51that fitting that came with the
1:19:52regulator wasn't like an MPT fitting. It
1:19:54just kept going in. It didn't get
1:19:56tighter cuz it wasn't a tapered MPT
1:19:57fitting. So, the only other
1:20:00piece I have for that is another
1:20:01pressure gauge. So, we're just probably
1:20:03going to run dual pressure gauges to uh
1:20:05fix that leak for now.
1:20:06But, we'll get it back together. We'll
1:20:08be good to go. All right, guys. We got
1:20:09the fuel leak fixed. Everything is back
1:20:11together. We went ahead and primed it
1:20:12once again, and we're good to go. We got
1:20:14our dual fuel pressure gauges going on
1:20:17right here.
1:20:18But, everything's good to go there, and
1:20:19we are just about ready to test fire
1:20:21this thing. There's a lot of buttoning
1:20:22up that needs to happen, but I do want
1:20:24to verify that this junkyard K-series is
1:20:26good to go.
1:20:27And the sooner we can start it up, the
1:20:29better because I'd hate to have to tear
1:20:31it all the way back apart again. So,
1:20:32that's what we're going for next. And
1:20:34the last thing we need to do before we
1:20:36can test fire it is load up a tune. And
1:20:39we also need to do something about the
1:20:42exhaust because right now the exhaust is
1:20:44just coming right off the back of the
1:20:45turbo. We don't want all of that blowing
1:20:47onto the things down there. I mean, we
1:20:49could run it like that. It'd probably be
1:20:50okay, but she's going to need an up pipe
1:20:52either way.
1:20:53And this is the one thing that I knew
1:20:55was going to be a challenge to not
1:20:58weld myself. And I was really trying to
1:21:01have zero welding on this whole project,
1:21:03but I got to do a little bit of welding,
1:21:05boys. So, this is the down pipe I have
1:21:07right here.
1:21:08I got this from my buddy Davey over at
1:21:10DC5. He makes kits, and he sells the
1:21:13down pipe kit separately. So, I got this
1:21:16from him for 200 bucks. I was able to
1:21:18just go to him, so I didn't have to pay
1:21:20him for shipping or anything.
1:21:21But, unfortunately,
1:21:23my turbo is the four-bolt flange, and
1:21:26these are V-band. Now, I thought I could
1:21:28get away with ordering Where is it at?
1:21:31This adapter right here
1:21:33off of Teemu.
1:21:34And I was like, I'm going to adapt my
1:21:36four-bolt turbo to the V-band, and we'll
1:21:38be good. But, not only would this not
1:21:40fit because it's too long anyways, but I
1:21:43got the wrong four-bolt flange, and this
1:21:45is actually smaller than the one that is
1:21:47on the turbo. It's not even the right
1:21:49flange. It's a little too small.
1:21:51And I don't want to wait for another
1:21:53adapter to show up or try to find a
1:21:55different turbo that's V-band.
1:21:57I really tried for you boys, but I'm
1:21:59going to have to cut this flange off.
1:22:02And we're going to need to weld on this
1:22:03four-bolt flange right here that I got
1:22:05in place of it so it can actually bolt
1:22:07up to the turbo.
1:22:08And this guy will fit in there
1:22:11just like so. And it looks pretty cool.
1:22:13It has the teardrop going on right here.
1:22:16He only had a few of these left cuz he
1:22:17was discontinuing them. And you can find
1:22:20other up pipe kits online
1:22:22for pretty cheap, but
1:22:25we were so close. And I was even going
1:22:26to go as far as
1:22:29putting this guy on for the wideband.
1:22:30Now, this already has the wideband bung
1:22:31on it, and we still got to get the kid
1:22:33on there. But, if you didn't have a
1:22:34wideband bung on your downpipe, I found
1:22:37these guys that I never knew existed.
1:22:39And this is literally
1:22:41a
1:22:42threaded hole for a wideband.
1:22:44And all you do is drill a hole through
1:22:46your up pipe or downpipe exhaust,
1:22:47whatever it is.
1:22:49It has a gasket that goes under it, and
1:22:50you literally just clamp this thing on
1:22:52for your wideband. I've never seen that
1:22:54before, but
1:22:56I was like, "Dude, I'm going to do this
1:22:57entire build with absolutely zero
1:22:59welding." But, unfortunately, we got to
1:23:01weld the one flange on. Got the good old
1:23:03trusty sawzall.
1:23:05I would have put it in my bandsaw, but
1:23:06unfortunately,
1:23:08it doesn't fit
1:23:09where I need to have [music] it cut.
1:23:17Good thing I'm a sawzall expert.
1:23:32>> [music]
1:23:36>> All right, guys, I got the up pipe
1:23:38tacked into place. Just had my friend
1:23:39hold it while I got some tacks on that
1:23:40flange right there. Now, it is just
1:23:43tacked. It's not welded all the way
1:23:44around, and I also have to do that
1:23:45wastegate dump as well. So, I think to
1:23:48keep it in the spirit of the build, I'm
1:23:49going to hold off on that for now and
1:23:51track down
1:23:52a cheap welder locally to knock all of
1:23:55that out. But, I did use my nice TIG
1:23:57welder to at least get that tacked into
1:23:58place so we can get the exhaust up and
1:24:00out of the engine bay for the most part.
1:24:02It does come pretty close to the battery
1:24:03right here as well. So,
1:24:05just a couple things we do have to
1:24:06consider
1:24:07when fully buttoning and finishing this
1:24:09car up. But, the teardrop does look
1:24:11freaking sick, and it looks like that's
1:24:12going to line up perfectly out of the
1:24:14hood there. But, now that the exhaust is
1:24:16on there, she powers up.
1:24:19Just got to get oil in there.
1:24:21But, we're going to go ahead and plug
1:24:23into the computer and work on building
1:24:25out a quick base map and booting it up
1:24:28into the ECU. All right, we got the car
1:24:30powered back on. ECU light is on and we
1:24:32got our cable
1:24:34plugged into the Hondata. This is just
1:24:36like a
1:24:37old school style printer cable that
1:24:39plugs into the Hondata. And once we go
1:24:41into our laptop,
1:24:43we get the chime and we are connected to
1:24:45the computer.
1:24:46Now like I said, I'm going to try to run
1:24:47through this pretty quick. I didn't have
1:24:50a way to record my screen on this little
1:24:53laptop here. It doesn't have that
1:24:54function. So we're just getting in there
1:24:56with the camera right on it.
1:24:58So let's uh speed run this real quick.
1:25:00We'll go to new calibration.
1:25:02We'll go here to vehicle type. And if
1:25:04you scroll all the way down to other
1:25:05vehicles, this is where the K24 tunes
1:25:07are hidden. Not like any of this really
1:25:09matters. We're just going to go to K24
1:25:11TSX stock.
1:25:14Completely stock. Hit okay. The stock
1:25:16tune is loaded up. We're going to go
1:25:17right here to injector size.
1:25:20That's 310 cc. We're just going to go
1:25:21ahead and put in our injectors, 2200
1:25:25cc.
1:25:27And then we're just going to run through
1:25:28all of these windows and make sure
1:25:29everything's looking good. We're going
1:25:30to go here to map sensor. We're going to
1:25:31go replacement map.
1:25:33We have a
1:25:36four bar map sensor.
1:25:38Don't have boost control on it. In the
1:25:40miscellaneous, we're going to
1:25:45disable all of that.
1:25:47So yeah, basically all I'm going to
1:25:48start out with is just disabling
1:25:50everything.
1:25:52And I just changed the injectors to 2200
1:25:55cc and I plugged in
1:25:57our new map sensor.
1:25:59And I'm just going to send that to the
1:26:00computer and we're going to see what
1:26:02happens.
1:26:04So we'll go ahead and hit upload.
1:26:07And then we'll wait for that to upload
1:26:10and go from there.
1:26:11All right, now we're going to go ahead
1:26:12get some oil in this thing. I just went
1:26:14to the parts store got some VR1. I'll
1:26:16have to double check the receipt. I
1:26:17believe it was around 60 or 70 dollars
1:26:19cuz I also got a new oil filter
1:26:21as well. And then I also got a sixth
1:26:23quart over there because we like to put
1:26:26six quarts in the K24s once we put a
1:26:28turbo kit on them. So, for now, I'm just
1:26:30going to do the five.
1:26:32But, we'll definitely add the last quart
1:26:35before we go
1:26:36ripping on this thing.
1:26:40And hopefully our plug on the bottom of
1:26:42the pan
1:26:43from the junkyard does not start
1:26:44leaking.
1:26:45We're going to have to keep an eye on
1:26:46that.
1:26:48All right. We got oil, and then we're
1:26:50going to go ahead and throw some fluid
1:26:52in the transmission.
1:26:53And for that, I got some Pennzoil
1:26:56Synchromesh over here. Uh this stuff's
1:26:58really good for the manual
1:26:59transmissions. I used to always run this
1:27:01in the hatchback in the day when I was
1:27:03out street racing.
1:27:04And it worked really good. So, I got two
1:27:06quarts of this stuff.
1:27:08We'll throw this in the trans, and
1:27:11then we can start cranking this thing
1:27:12over. And then I still have the uh oil
1:27:14feed line pulled off
1:27:16the turbo cuz I'm just going to crank it
1:27:18over and verify that we get oil flowing
1:27:19out of this for oil pressure. Now, if
1:27:21this oil feed line starts to leak down
1:27:23here, it is my fault because when I was
1:27:25messing with trying to line
1:27:26this up, I twisted it a little too hard,
1:27:29and it kinked. So, hopefully it didn't
1:27:31rupture in there. I'm probably going to
1:27:33end up replacing the feed line even if
1:27:35it doesn't leak right away, but that was
1:27:36on me. Got our transmission fluid going
1:27:39in. Just pulled the exhaust out of the
1:27:40way
1:27:41to get to the
1:27:44fill plug on the side of it down there.
1:27:46We just got our funnel with the long
1:27:47tube on it. All right, guys, we got
1:27:49fluid in the engine and transmission,
1:27:51and right now we are going to verify oil
1:27:53pressure. I'm confident that it's going
1:27:55to be good, but it never hurts to go
1:27:56ahead and pull the feed line off and
1:27:58make sure you got oil flowing out of
1:27:59that guy. Make sure the line's not
1:28:01clogged or
1:28:02you're on a port that isn't going to
1:28:04supply sufficient oil pressure for some
1:28:05reason. So, we went ahead and pulled the
1:28:08spark plugs out to get a little more RPM
1:28:09out of this thing while we crank. I got
1:28:11the jump box on there because when you
1:28:13leave the plugs in on a regular battery,
1:28:15regular starter, sometimes cranking
1:28:16alone won't even get the oil to flow
1:28:19through the uh feed till you actually
1:28:20get it running and get some real RPM in
1:28:22there.
1:28:23But, usually
1:28:25you can get some oil coming out of it
1:28:26just by cranking if you go long enough,
1:28:27especially if you pull the plugs out.
1:28:29So, right here I got a little momentary
1:28:31push button. This is our starter rig. It
1:28:33just has a spade on it and an alligator
1:28:36clip so we can manually jump the starter
1:28:38from up here on the engine bay, which is
1:28:40nice. We also got the throttle cable on
1:28:41there.
1:28:42So, that worked out pretty good. It
1:28:44reached. We had a throttle cable bracket
1:28:45that came with the intake there.
1:28:47But, uh yeah, anyways, let's go ahead
1:28:49and
1:28:50pump some oil out of this thing. See how
1:28:52long it takes.
1:28:57Oh.
1:28:58Sounds like she's turning over good, so
1:28:59that's a good sign.
1:29:05Any second now.
1:29:09I was just about to give up, and there
1:29:10it is.
1:29:12Look at that.
1:29:16We got oil pressure, boys.
1:29:17So, we'll go ahead, hook this back up,
1:29:19get the exhaust on, and we got one last
1:29:21thing I need to show you about the
1:29:22harness, verify that we got spark,
1:29:25and it is time. So, now I'm going to go
1:29:27ahead and show you the one small issue
1:29:28that you have to watch out for on these
1:29:30cheaper engine harnesses. We've used a
1:29:32lot of these in the past, especially
1:29:33Brent over at PFI, so we have experience
1:29:36with them, and I know right where to go
1:29:38to fix them because a lot of them seem
1:29:39to have the same
1:29:41issue. The problem with these is you
1:29:42just can't verify that everything is
1:29:44pinned properly at the uh ECU plugs and
1:29:47that C101 plug that goes to the adapter.
1:29:50Um and we're going to show you the
1:29:51problem with this one right here. So, I
1:29:53have everything hooked up how it should
1:29:55be. Theoretically, the car should start
1:29:57right now if the plugs were in and the
1:29:58tune was right. But, if we go ahead and
1:30:00crank the engine over, we have one spark
1:30:02plug out right here and plugged in. We
1:30:04still need to put the rest of the plugs
1:30:05in, but you'll see when we crank it, we
1:30:07have no spark. Check this out right
1:30:08here.
1:30:12We got nothing, even though everything
1:30:13is plugged in properly and it should
1:30:15work. Now, the reason she's not sparking
1:30:18is because we have two pins that are
1:30:21wrong on the C101 plug here and they
1:30:24need to be flipped.
1:30:26Which is right here and I'm just going
1:30:27to run you guys through this and show
1:30:29you how quick we can get this fixed.
1:30:32Now, this is the same batch of harnesses
1:30:34that we have ordered. So, there are
1:30:37other cheap harnesses available and I
1:30:39can't confirm that they might have other
1:30:42pins wrong, but we ordered the same ones
1:30:44from the same link and these ones all
1:30:47have this same issue. And if they just
1:30:49fixed this, there really be no problems.
1:30:51So,
1:30:52the issue with this right now is that
1:30:55pin 20 right here, this white wire, is
1:30:57our coil ground and this guy is flipped
1:31:00with this one, number seven. They're
1:31:02both white wires
1:31:04and this is the
1:31:06cooling fan ground
1:31:08and we need to flip those. So, right
1:31:10now, our ECU is trying to signal the
1:31:13coils through the cooling fan pin
1:31:16instead of the actual ground pin for the
1:31:19coil. So, all we got to do
1:31:20is
1:31:22pop this guy apart. You just take a
1:31:23small flathead and it has these little
1:31:25tabs right here
1:31:26and this whole clip kind of comes undone
1:31:30on both sides.
1:31:31So, you got that one undone. Then you do
1:31:33the same right here.
1:31:37Just like that. Then you just need a
1:31:39little flathead
1:31:41and then you can unlock the tab on the
1:31:42pin. You just kind of shove it up in
1:31:44there. You'll see the plastic tab that
1:31:46holds it in place. We'll go ahead and
1:31:47slide this guy out.
1:31:51Like so and then we're going to flip it
1:31:52over.
1:31:53Slide out our other pin.
1:31:55Just like that.
1:31:57And we are now going to put
1:32:00that pin that was in seven into 20
1:32:05and the one that was in 20
1:32:08back here into
1:32:10number seven.
1:32:13Just like that. And then we can go ahead
1:32:16put our clips back together, lock
1:32:18everything
1:32:19back into place.
1:32:21Now we can plug this back in.
1:32:26Hear that fuel pump come back on and
1:32:28look, we haven't even changed anything.
1:32:30The key's still on. Everything was as it
1:32:32is, but I just changed the pin.
1:32:35And now when we look at the spark plug,
1:32:37we should have spark.
1:32:40And there it is.
1:32:42We are sparking.
1:32:44Might be a little hard to see on camera,
1:32:46but the coil ground was swapped with the
1:32:49fan ground. Now another minor thing,
1:32:51this one isn't as big of a deal, is they
1:32:53have the
1:32:55cam position sensors, or they just the
1:32:57cam sensors on the side of the head
1:32:59labeled wrong. So, this one right here
1:33:01is labeled TDC and then the other one is
1:33:04labeled CPS. Now TDC stands for top dead
1:33:08center. This is meant to go on the
1:33:10exhaust cam on a K series. The exhaust
1:33:12cam on a K series doesn't have any
1:33:15variable adjustment like the intake cam
1:33:17does, so it is verifying the timing of
1:33:19the engine with that exhaust cam. CPS
1:33:21stands for cam position sensor because
1:33:24the intake cam uses oil pressure to
1:33:27actually change the cam angle in real
1:33:30time and you need the
1:33:32cam position sensor to know that. So,
1:33:34those are just flipped around because
1:33:36they're labeled wrong. The actual
1:33:37physical wiring is correct. It's just
1:33:39the label is wrong. So, that's also one
1:33:42thing you got to double check. If you're
1:33:44not getting uh spark or crank signal,
1:33:47maybe just double check that those are
1:33:48in the right place. Very common thing
1:33:50for people on their first K swaps to get
1:33:51those flipped around. But now that is
1:33:54done
1:33:55we can go ahead get the plugs back in.
1:33:57know we have spark. We know we have fuel
1:33:58pressure.
1:34:00And we went ahead and also plugged up
1:34:03some holes on the throttle body for
1:34:04right now.
1:34:05And
1:34:08I think she's going to fire up, boys.
1:34:09And one last thing before we try to
1:34:11start it, the car still is on pump gas
1:34:13that is at least 5 years old, and we are
1:34:16on these bigger injectors, which is
1:34:17going to be harder to get a smooth idle
1:34:19on it right away. And the car's
1:34:21ultimately going to be ran on E85
1:34:23anyways to try to make the power that we
1:34:25want to make. So, we're going to go
1:34:26ahead and drain this tank out. We're
1:34:27just going to turn the fuel pump on,
1:34:31pull the return line off, and pump it
1:34:32out into a gas can, and then we're going
1:34:34to put some fresh E85 in this thing. And
1:34:36then we should be good to fire it up.
1:34:38Well, the Hondata has an option on here
1:34:40to run the fuel pump continuously, and I
1:34:42checked the box. For for some reason,
1:34:44it's not running it, so
1:34:46I'm just going to sit here,
1:34:48keep hitting upload cuz it primes the
1:34:49pump every time,
1:34:51and we'll get her drained out.
1:34:55I'm going to be here for a minute.
1:34:58All right.
1:34:59E85 is in.
1:35:01We should be good to go.
1:35:04All right, guys. It is time for our
1:35:05first start attempt on the budget turbo
1:35:08Civic build here with almost all of the
1:35:10parts sourced from Teemu. And we got a
1:35:13fire extinguisher right here, you know,
1:35:14just in case something explodes or
1:35:15catches on fire. Definitely a good idea
1:35:17to have. And uh
1:35:20yeah, I guess there's nothing more than
1:35:22to get to it and see what happens. I got
1:35:23the Hondata display pulled up here. I
1:35:26also verified like the TPS is reading
1:35:28properly, ran through all the sensors,
1:35:30you know, just some stuff I didn't
1:35:31really show, but you have to do a
1:35:33thorough job just making sure all the
1:35:34parameters are set where you need them
1:35:35to be.
1:35:37And we got her ready to go. So, uh let's
1:35:40see what happens here, boys.
1:35:42Fire in the hole.
1:35:52Oh.
1:35:56She did pop.
1:36:00Come on, baby.
1:36:07Come on.
1:36:08Come on.
1:36:10Come on.
1:36:11She's popping.
1:36:15She's popping.
1:36:16She might need some more fuel, boys, but
1:36:18she was
1:36:19popping off a little bit.
1:36:21So, we're going to go
1:36:23to our fuel table here.
1:36:26It didn't smell very
1:36:29Didn't seem like it was too rich. So,
1:36:30I'm just going to highlight this whole
1:36:31table here.
1:36:33And
1:36:34let's just
1:36:36add 20%. See what happens.
1:36:46Nope.
1:36:47This should actually tell me right now
1:36:48if it had too much fuel instead of not
1:36:50enough. If I just crank it without the
1:36:51injectors and it tries to run, then
1:36:53we'll know it was too fat.
1:37:00Oh.
1:37:02Maybe she had too much fuel, boys.
1:37:05Hey, let's uh
1:37:08All right. So, let's plug these back in.
1:37:13And now instead of adding the 20%, which
1:37:15was not the move,
1:37:17we're going to adjust and we're going to
1:37:18go
1:37:20go minus 50%, which is basically minus
1:37:2230% off the original one since I added
1:37:25the 20.
1:37:30Oh, yeah. That's the right direction.
1:37:32She's starting to run. Still probably
1:37:33just too much fuel.
1:37:36Going to hopefully uh get a handle on
1:37:38these Teemu injectors. I'm honestly not
1:37:41going to be shocked if we uh
1:37:43have some issues just getting her to
1:37:44idle and run right
1:37:46cuz
1:37:47these injectors were freaking cheap.
1:37:50So, 60% taken out of the original base
1:37:52map.
1:38:02Oh, there we go. There we go.
1:38:09All right, we're on the right track.
1:38:17Woo!
1:38:20The Civic still alive.
1:38:30Trying to keep her running.
1:38:33All right, we're moving in the right
1:38:35direction.
1:38:36She is almost there.
1:38:38Hell yeah, guys. And the junkyard engine
1:38:40sounds good so far.
1:38:42Sick. Yeah, I don't know if I mentioned
1:38:44it, but we have this piece of cardboard
1:38:45right here just so the
1:38:47exhaust doesn't break off and touch the
1:38:49positive terminal since it's still just
1:38:51kind of tacked on there. I don't want to
1:38:53arc that out.
1:38:55All right, we are so close, guys. I
1:38:56think
1:38:58I know Okay, so she runs, which is
1:39:00awesome. I have one more thing. Let me
1:39:02look up the price and we'll throw it on.
1:39:04All right, we got the Civic running, but
1:39:06she still needs a little work because
1:39:07the fuel map is not all there. And the
1:39:10only way we're going to really start to
1:39:11dial this thing in and potentially get a
1:39:13tune later on in the future is we need
1:39:14to get a wideband gauge on this thing
1:39:16with a sensor. And I got this kit right
1:39:18here off of Temu. This was $78.54.
1:39:21It came with the gauge, harness, and the
1:39:23actual
1:39:25O2 wideband sensor right there. Now, as
1:39:27you guys saw, I had a custom little
1:39:29piece that could be strapped onto the
1:39:31exhaust pipe that would have required no
1:39:32welding, but the up pipe I got already
1:39:35had a wideband bung on it. So, I'm just
1:39:37going to go ahead and stick the sensor
1:39:39in right there. We'll We'll ahead, throw
1:39:41a power and ground onto the harness
1:39:43right here, and it should power
1:39:44everything up. We have options to tie a
1:39:48signal wire from our wideband into the
1:39:50ECU. So, once we actually do start to
1:39:52tune on the car, we can actually send
1:39:54that ECU that information, and it can
1:39:57further tune the car while we're driving
1:39:59under wide open throttle and make
1:40:00adjustments there. But, for right now,
1:40:01we're going to get this wideband fired
1:40:03up so I can try to get it running and
1:40:05idling a little bit better. Because
1:40:07right now, when I'm hitting the
1:40:07throttle, it it runs okay down low, but
1:40:11the second it's over like 2,000 RPM, it
1:40:13just hits a wall, either too much or too
1:40:15little fuel, and it's shutting the car
1:40:16down. So, we'll get the wideband on
1:40:18there, and we can keep adjusting it. So,
1:40:21we got the wideband kind of just
1:40:23temporarily wired up right here, got the
1:40:24sensor in. We're going to go ahead and
1:40:25power everything back on.
1:40:28For the first time, look at that. She's
1:40:29booting up.
1:40:31It is heating the
1:40:33sensor right now.
1:40:34And once the sensor heats up,
1:40:37we will have our wideband reading, and
1:40:38I'll go ahead and try to start it again,
1:40:40see if we can get a wideband
1:40:42reading of where we're at, so I know
1:40:44if we need to add or take away fuel when
1:40:46it hits that spot where she's wanting to
1:40:48shut down.
1:40:58So, looks like it's going lean. I'm just
1:41:00going to highlight the whole thing
1:41:01again. So, now we're going to start
1:41:04putting some fuel back in it and seeing
1:41:06if it likes it. We'll go 15%.
1:41:16There we go.
1:41:29Well, she's starting to clean up.
1:41:31She was sounding good, boys.
1:41:34Well,
1:41:35I don't know if there it's really worth
1:41:36playing with right I don't want to heat
1:41:38it up too much, catch this cardboard on
1:41:40fire. Plus, we have no coolant in it,
1:41:42but she was starting to rev up cleaner,
1:41:43as you could see, after playing with the
1:41:45fuel some.
1:41:46And now we still have a lot of buttoning
1:41:49up to get done. I mean, we got to clean
1:41:50up all this wiring, got to
1:41:53get some clamps on the radiator hoses,
1:41:55get water in it, and we still have a
1:41:57couple more components that are missing
1:41:59that we will show you here in a second,
1:42:00but she is up and running, and
1:42:04this thing is freaking sick. I actually
1:42:06don't know what we're at as far as the
1:42:07total amount spent until I go through
1:42:09and edit all this, but we should
1:42:10hopefully be,
1:42:11you know, not too far over the budget,
1:42:13but as I was adding some stuff up, I
1:42:15think we might have broken five grand a
1:42:17bit, especially after adding the up pipe
1:42:20and things like that, but she's coming
1:42:22along blaze. Freaking sweet. And the
1:42:24final thing we need to get on our Civic
1:42:26here is an alternator. We need to keep
1:42:28our battery charged up, so we went back
1:42:30to the junkyard, and we got this guy
1:42:32right here. This is a junkyard
1:42:34alternator that came off of a Honda
1:42:36Element that we found. Went ahead and
1:42:38pulled this guy off. We got no warranty
1:42:40on it, so just like the engine,
1:42:42hopefully it's good. She has a little
1:42:43bit of a
1:42:44squeak to her, but this was $45.50
1:42:48with no warranty. And to mount the
1:42:50alternator, we have this kit right here
1:42:53that you can find off of Teemu. This is
1:42:54a power steering AC delete kit, and it
1:42:58relocates the alternator a little bit
1:42:59lower. It comes with this uh billet
1:43:02bracket right here that bolts on
1:43:04the front of the block here. We have to
1:43:05remove this factory uh tensioner right
1:43:08there. Comes with these brackets that
1:43:11remount the alternator. It comes with a
1:43:13pulley that we need to swap out onto our
1:43:15alternator and our belt. And this was
1:43:19$62.40.
1:43:22So, we're going to go ahead, get our
1:43:23alternator on, and this thing is just
1:43:25about ready to go.
1:43:32>> [music]
1:43:43[music]
1:43:50[music]
1:43:50>> So we got the alternator on, got the
1:43:52belt tight, got it plugged in right
1:43:54here. So now all we have to do is get a
1:43:55power line to that guy and we will be
1:43:57charging. And then one last thing I
1:43:58forgot to mention is that we got the
1:44:01slave cylinder on the transmission right
1:44:03down there. We were just able to reuse
1:44:05the factory clutch line from the EK and
1:44:07lined right up. We just had to do some
1:44:08bending and
1:44:10she threaded in, so that's good to go.
1:44:11We got that at the junkyard as well for
1:44:14$20.50.
1:44:16And now in theory, she should run and
1:44:18drive. And that brings us here. The
1:44:20table is cleared off of all the parts we
1:44:21originally started with. Everything is
1:44:23on the car. And the grand total for the
1:44:25budget turbo Civic build came out to
1:44:27$5,671.89.
1:44:30Now
1:44:31I know we went a little bit over budget,
1:44:33about $700. I knew it was going to be
1:44:35tough when I originally priced this
1:44:37shell at a thousand, but that was fair
1:44:39for what it is. It's a pretty clean
1:44:41shell with full interior. I know if we
1:44:43started with a stripped out car with all
1:44:45the stuff we needed in the engine bay,
1:44:47you could easily find a shell for like
1:44:48five, six hundred bucks. There's a lot
1:44:50of little things that I just spent the
1:44:51extra money on like buying brand new
1:44:53flywheel bolts and things like that
1:44:55where making that $5,000 goal is
1:44:57definitely doable, but I wanted to show
1:45:00what this process would look like just
1:45:02for anyone trying to do it, you know, in
1:45:04today's age trying to build a turbo
1:45:06Honda Civic with a K-series with all
1:45:08these budget parts on it. So I think we
1:45:09did a good job of keeping it as cheap as
1:45:12possible, but also as realistic as
1:45:14possible. And I just didn't get an
1:45:16extremely good deal on every little
1:45:17component I found. And so after watching
1:45:20this video, if you were interested in
1:45:21building one of these, you'll know that
1:45:23you should expect to be anywhere from
1:45:245,500 to maybe 6,500 dollars, somewhere
1:45:27in that range based on where I ended up.
1:45:29Now, I love Honda Civics. That's where I
1:45:32got my start. If you guys have been
1:45:34watching my channel for a long time, it
1:45:35started with budget builds with turbo
1:45:37Civics. Just some kids in the garage.
1:45:39So, it was really fun to kind of come
1:45:40back to this and see what we could do
1:45:44after almost 10 years have gone by. And
1:45:45what's crazy is that it's even cheaper
1:45:47now, I think, to do it than it was 10
1:45:50years ago when I first started just with
1:45:51how cheap all this stuff got and the
1:45:53fact that you can get the K-series so
1:45:54cheap now and that this thing can make
1:45:56over 500 horsepower completely unopened.
1:45:59It's just
1:46:00pretty wild. Now, we don't know what
1:46:02ours is going to do right here with all
1:46:04of these cheap components on it. And
1:46:05that's where you guys are going to have
1:46:06to follow along to find out. So, be sure
1:46:08to subscribe and continue the journey on
1:46:11this thing as we get it buttoned up
1:46:13ready to go on the dyno, see what kind
1:46:15of power she makes, take it to the track
1:46:16because I have no idea how long this
1:46:18turbo is going to last. I don't know if
1:46:19these injectors are going to even work
1:46:20for us. There's a lot of question marks
1:46:22on these cheap parts. So, even though we
1:46:25didn't spend a lot of money,
1:46:27we don't know if we're even going to get
1:46:28the performance we're looking for and it
1:46:29might end up costing us more in the long
1:46:31run. And that's what we are going to
1:46:33find out here. Now, this was one of the
1:46:34longest, if not the longest, video I've
1:46:36ever posted on this channel. As you guys
1:46:38know, I would have normally broken this
1:46:40up into a several part series, but I
1:46:42wanted to put it all in one start to
1:46:44finish until she's running. But, that is
1:46:46the budget turbo Civic build. I know it
1:46:48was a long one. I hope you guys enjoyed
1:46:51and thank you for watching. We'll see
1:46:52you later.

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