The Rise and Fall of the City That Started America's Industrial Revolution: Lowell, MA — Transcript
Full transcript
- 0:00The city of Lowell was built on a theft
- 0:02and it died from one.
- 0:04The first theft came in 1810 when a
- 0:07Boston merchant memorized the design of
- 0:09British power looms and smuggled the
- 0:11future across the Atlantic inside his
- 0:14memory.
- 0:15For one extraordinary generation the
- 0:17gamble paid off beyond reason. Then the
- 0:20same logic turned.
- 0:22The men who owned the mills owed Lowell
- 0:25nothing. And when cheaper labor beckoned
- 0:27from the American South they carried the
- 0:29future off again and left the brick
- 0:31standing empty.
- 0:34The city they abandoned would take half
- 0:36a century to learn how to live.
- 0:40Before we go back to 1810
- 0:43if forgotten American industry is what
- 0:45you're here for hit subscribe.
- 0:48This is the kind of story we pull out of
- 0:51the brick every week.
- 0:53Paul Moody was a mechanic, not a
- 0:55merchant and he was the man who actually
- 0:58made the thing work.
- 1:00Francis Cabot Lowell had come home from
- 1:03England in 1812
- 1:05with the design of a power loom in his
- 1:07memory and no way to build it. Moody had
- 1:10the hands.
- 1:11Together in a brick mill on the Charles
- 1:14River in Waltham they assembled the
- 1:16first integrated cotton factory in
- 1:18America. A building where raw cotton
- 1:21went in one end and finished cloth came
- 1:24out the other. Every step under a single
- 1:27roof.
- 1:28All of it driven by water.
- 1:30It opened in 1814.
- 1:33Capitalized at $400,000
- 1:36it was 10 times the size of anything its
- 1:38New England competitors were running.
- 1:40And it made its investors rich very
- 1:43quickly.
- 1:44Those investors were a small
- 1:46interlocking circle of Boston merchant
- 1:48families. The Appletons, the Cabots, the
- 1:52Lowells, the Lawrences, the Jacksons.
- 1:56History would call them the Boston
- 1:57Associates, and they were exactly the
- 2:00kind of men who knew what a venture
- 2:02needed before they committed to it.
- 2:04The Waltham Mill proved the concept, but
- 2:07the Charles River was a modest stream,
- 2:09and it could only power so many looms.
- 2:13By 1817, the associates were already
- 2:15looking for more water,
- 2:17and Francis Cabot Lowell, the man whose
- 2:19memory had started all of it, was dead
- 2:22at 42.
- 2:23He never saw what came next. He never
- 2:26saw the city.
- 2:29They found their water about 25 mi
- 2:31north, where the Merrimack River fell 32
- 2:33ft over a series of rapids called
- 2:35Pawtucket Falls.
- 2:37It was, in engineering terms, an
- 2:39enormous amount of free power waiting to
- 2:41be harnessed.
- 2:42A canal already ran around the falls,
- 2:45the old Pawtucket Canal,
- 2:47dug back in the 1790s to let timber
- 2:49rafts bypass the rapids.
- 2:51The associates bought it quietly, along
- 2:54with the surrounding farmland of a
- 2:55sleepy district called East Chelmsford,
- 2:58and they did it through agents, so the
- 3:00farmers wouldn't understand what was
- 3:01happening and raise their prices.
- 3:05By the time anyone realized that the
- 3:06richest men in Boston were assembling a
- 3:09city on their doorstep,
- 3:11the land was already gone.
- 3:14What they built there was not a town
- 3:16that grew.
- 3:17It was a city that was designed.
- 3:20Engineers laid out a network of power
- 3:22canals that branched off the Merrimack,
- 3:25and threaded through the site like the
- 3:26veins of a leaf, each one dropping water
- 3:29through the wheels of a mill, and
- 3:31returning it to the river below.
- 3:33The Pawtucket Canal was widened and
- 3:35deepened to feed the system.
- 3:37New canals were cut through bedrock by
- 3:39Irish laborers working with picks and
- 3:42black powder.
- 3:43Three of them, the Merrimack, the
- 3:45Hamilton, the Western, would carry the
- 3:47names of the mills they fed.
- 3:50The first great mill, the Merrimack
- 3:52Manufacturing Company, began operating
- 3:55in 1823.
- 3:57Within a few years more rose beside it,
- 4:00brick walls four and five stories high,
- 4:02their windows in disciplined rows, their
- 4:04bell towers standing over the river.
- 4:07This was the engine.
- 4:09Keep the canals in mind. They will
- 4:12matter again at the very end of this
- 4:13story in a way no one in 1823 could have
- 4:17imagined.
- 4:18By every measure, the gamble worked. In
- 4:211826, the settlement was incorporated as
- 4:24a town and named finally for the dead
- 4:27man who had carried the idea home.
- 4:31Lowell, Massachusetts. 10 years later,
- 4:34it would become a city.
- 4:36By 1848, it was the largest industrial
- 4:39center in the United States and the
- 4:41Boston Associates and their allied
- 4:43families controlled something close to a
- 4:45fifth of all the cotton manufactured in
- 4:48America.
- 4:50It is worth being precise here.
- 4:52Lowell was not strictly speaking the
- 4:54birthplace of the American Industrial
- 4:56Revolution. Pieces of it had appeared
- 4:59earlier and elsewhere. In Samuel
- 5:01Slater's spinning mill in Rhode Island,
- 5:03in Waltham itself.
- 5:05What Lowell did was gather those pieces
- 5:08at a scale no one had dared before
- 5:11until the sum became something new.
- 5:13But a mill is only iron and brick. It
- 5:16needs hands to run it, thousands of
- 5:18them. And this was the problem the
- 5:20associates had to solve before any of
- 5:22the rest could matter.
- 5:24In England, the textile factories ran on
- 5:27the bodies of the desperately poor.
- 5:29On men and women and children worked
- 5:31into early graves in the slums of
- 5:33Manchester.
- 5:35Americans had read about those
- 5:36conditions and they recoiled from them.
- 5:39A young republic that had just thrown
- 5:42off one kind of bondage was not eager to
- 5:44manufacture another.
- 5:46The associates knew this. They also knew
- 5:49that an entire generation of New England
- 5:51farm daughters was sitting in the hills
- 5:53doing unpaid work on family farms
- 5:57with no way to earn money of their own
- 5:59and no real prospect beyond marriage.
- 6:03So, they made those women an offer that
- 6:05had never quite existed before.
- 6:07Come to Lowell,
- 6:09work the looms for cash wages, real
- 6:11money paid into your own hand.
- 6:14Live in a clean company boarding house
- 6:16with other young women
- 6:18supervised by a respectable matron.
- 6:20Attend church, improve yourself, save
- 6:23what you earn.
- 6:25It was framed not as exploitation but as
- 6:28opportunity.
- 6:30A temporary and even uplifting chapter
- 6:32in a young woman's life before she
- 6:34returned home
- 6:35or married.
- 6:37The wages were modest, but they were
- 6:39hers.
- 6:40For thousands of women raised to expect
- 6:42nothing of their own, the appeal was
- 6:44real.
- 6:45And they came by the wagon load. Trunks
- 6:48packed
- 6:49down out of the hills toward the smoke
- 6:51and the noise
- 6:53and the promise of the river city.
- 6:55What waited for them was a world built
- 6:57to a schedule no farm had ever kept. The
- 7:01mill bell governed everything.
- 7:03It woke them before dawn, called them to
- 7:06the looms, released them for a hurried
- 7:08meal, and pulled them back, and freed
- 7:10them at last in the dark of evening.
- 7:13The working day ran 12 to 14 hours. The
- 7:16rooms were loud beyond description.
- 7:19Hundreds of power looms slamming in
- 7:21unison, the air thick with cotton dust
- 7:24and kept deliberately humid so the
- 7:26threads would not snap.
- 7:29The boarding houses were crowded in a
- 7:30way the pamphlets never mentioned. 40
- 7:33women to a house, eight to a room, two
- 7:36to a bed.
- 7:37And over all of it hung a company code
- 7:40of conduct that governed how a woman
- 7:42prayed, kept her hours, and lived her
- 7:45private life.
- 7:47For a time, the women made the case for
- 7:49the place themselves, publishing a
- 7:51magazine of their own poems and essays,
- 7:54The Lowell Offering, which visitors held
- 7:57up as proof the experiment worked.
- 8:00Charles Dickens toured the city in 1842
- 8:04and came away impressed, contrasting it
- 8:06pointedly with the industrial misery he
- 8:09knew from Manchester.
- 8:11The girls, he marveled, attended
- 8:13lectures and borrowed books from a
- 8:14library.
- 8:16The image was carefully tended, and for
- 8:18a while it held.
- 8:20But the looms still ran 14 hours a day,
- 8:24and the arithmetic beneath that image
- 8:26was already beginning to shift. That
- 8:29arithmetic was simple, and it belonged
- 8:31entirely to the men in Boston.
- 8:34The mills existed to return a profit to
- 8:36shareholders, and when the price of
- 8:38finished cloth fell, as it did in the
- 8:40mid-1830s, the directors had two levers
- 8:43to pull.
- 8:44They could accept thinner margins, or
- 8:46they could push the cost down onto the
- 8:48people running the looms.
- 8:50They chose the looms.
- 8:52The women who had been promised
- 8:54opportunity discovered that opportunity,
- 8:56in the language of a balance sheet, was
- 8:58something the company could revise
- 9:00whenever the market turned.
- 9:02In February 1834,
- 9:05the company announced a wage cut of
- 9:07roughly 15%.
- 9:09The response was something no one in
- 9:11Lowell had planned for or quite believed
- 9:13possible. Hundreds of women walked off
- 9:16the job. They held meetings, signed an
- 9:18agreement, and marched through the
- 9:20streets of the city in open protest, an
- 9:23act so startling in 1834
- 9:26that the newspapers struggled to
- 9:27describe it without condescension.
- 9:30One of the organizers reportedly climbed
- 9:32onto a pump and delivered a speech on
- 9:35the rights of women and the inequity of
- 9:37those who would grind them down.
- 9:39The mill agents were appalled.
- 9:41Respectable young women did not behave
- 9:43this way. The strike, or the turnout as
- 9:46they called it, drew enormous attention.
- 9:49And it failed.
- 9:51The women had no fund to live on, no
- 9:54organization to sustain them, and within
- 9:56days most had drifted back to the looms
- 9:59or gone home to the farms.
- 10:01Wages stayed cut.
- 10:04But something had been established that
- 10:06could not be unestablished.
- 10:08The mill girls had discovered that they
- 10:10were not merely hands.
- 10:12They were a workforce, and a workforce
- 10:14could refuse.
- 10:16Two years later, in October 1836,
- 10:20they proved it again.
- 10:22This time the trigger was the boarding
- 10:24house.
- 10:25The company raised the price of board,
- 10:27which amounted to another wage cut by a
- 10:30different name, and the women turned out
- 10:32a second time in larger numbers and with
- 10:35better organization.
- 10:37They formed a Factory Girls Association
- 10:40with a written constitution.
- 10:42They pulled the younger workers out of
- 10:44the spinning rooms first, knowing the
- 10:45mills couldn't run without them.
- 10:48And this time it worked, at least in
- 10:50part.
- 10:51The company backed down on some of the
- 10:53increases.
- 10:54The lesson was not lost on anyone.
- 10:57Lowell's model workforce had a will of
- 10:59its own.
- 11:00Through the 1840s, that will found a
- 11:03more deliberate shape.
- 11:05The walkouts of the previous decade had
- 11:07been sudden and emotional, sparked and
- 11:10spent within days.
- 11:12The new tactic was political, and it was
- 11:14patient.
- 11:15The women organized around a single
- 11:17demand, the 10-hour day.
- 11:20They were working 12, 13, 14 hours, and
- 11:24they wanted the law to draw a line.
- 11:27In December 1844, they founded the
- 11:30Lowell Female Labor Reform Association.
- 11:33And at its head was a weaver named Sarah
- 11:36Bagley.
- 11:37Bagley had come to Lowell with the same
- 11:39optimism as everyone else, had even
- 11:42written admiringly of the place in the
- 11:43Lowell Offering.
- 11:45But the years on the floor had changed
- 11:47her.
- 11:49She testified before the Massachusetts
- 11:51legislature, the first time a body of
- 11:53that kind had heard from working women
- 11:55about their own conditions.
- 11:57She organized petitions that gathered
- 11:59thousands of signatures year after year.
- 12:02She publicly broke with the Offering
- 12:05when she decided it had become a
- 12:06mouthpiece for the corporations.
- 12:09And she helped turn a rival labor paper
- 12:11into a sharper instrument.
- 12:14The 10-hour law did not come, not then.
- 12:17The legislature investigated, toured the
- 12:20spotless rooms the company prepared for
- 12:22it, and concluded that the hours were a
- 12:24matter between worker and employer.
- 12:27But Bagley and the women around her had
- 12:29done something that outlasted any single
- 12:32bill. They had demonstrated that the
- 12:34workers of Lowell could speak in the
- 12:36language of politics, organize across
- 12:38mills, and force the powerful to at
- 12:41least pretend to listen.
- 12:43The fight for the shorter day would go
- 12:45on for decades,
- 12:47taken up eventually by other hands.
- 12:49The mill girls had started it.
- 12:52And then quietly, the mill girls
- 12:54themselves
- 12:56began to disappear.
- 12:58Not in a single dramatic moment,
- 13:00but in a slow exchange that remade the
- 13:03city without anyone deciding it should.
- 13:06The Yankee farm daughters had always
- 13:08been a temporary workforce by design.
- 13:11They came for a few years and left.
- 13:13As wages eroded and the work hardened
- 13:16and the romance of the experiment wore
- 13:18thin, fewer of them came to replace the
- 13:20ones who went.
- 13:22The hills of New England were also
- 13:23emptying for other reasons.
- 13:25With new land opening to the west and
- 13:28new kinds of work appearing in other
- 13:29towns.
- 13:31The company needed hands.
- 13:33And it needed them cheaper and more
- 13:35permanent than the daughters of
- 13:36independent farmers were ever going to
- 13:38be.
- 13:39There was another source and it was
- 13:41already arriving.
- 13:43The Irish had been in Lowell from the
- 13:44very beginning though the city's
- 13:46official story rarely mentioned them.
- 13:49They had dug the canals.
- 13:52The picturesque waterways that powered
- 13:53the model city had been cut through rock
- 13:55by Irish laborers who lived in a shanty
- 13:58town on the edge of the settlement.
- 14:00A cluster of cabins and mud lanes that
- 14:02came to be called the acre.
- 14:05For years they had been the muscle
- 14:06behind the scenery kept at the margins
- 14:09doing the work no one wrote poems about.
- 14:12Then came the famine of the 1840s.
- 14:14And the trickle became a flood.
- 14:17Hungry. Destitute. And desperate for any
- 14:20wage at all.
- 14:22Irish immigrants poured into Lowell and
- 14:24into the mills. And the company found in
- 14:27them exactly what it's arithmetic
- 14:28required.
- 14:30A workforce that would take the cut
- 14:32wages, work the long hours, and not go
- 14:35home to a farm at the end of the season.
- 14:38Because there was no farm and no home to
- 14:40go back to.
- 14:42The transformation rippled outward from
- 14:44there.
- 14:45The Irish were followed over the decades
- 14:47that came after by others drawn by the
- 14:50same machines and the same promise of
- 14:52work.
- 14:53French Canadians came south from Quebec.
- 14:56Whole families of them. Until the
- 14:58streets of certain neighborhoods ran on
- 15:00the sound of French. Greeks arrived and
- 15:03built one of the largest Greek
- 15:04communities in the country. Poles came
- 15:07and Portuguese and Armenians fleeing
- 15:10persecution.
- 15:11And Jews from across Eastern Europe. And
- 15:14Swedes and Lithuanians and Syrians.
- 15:17Each group finding its street, its
- 15:19church, its mutual aid society, its
- 15:22corner of a city that was becoming a
- 15:24patchwork of the world.
- 15:27The model town of virtuous Yankee
- 15:29maidens was gone, and in its place stood
- 15:32something raw and more crowded, and far
- 15:35more like the rest of industrial
- 15:37America.
- 15:38What the city lost in its careful
- 15:40self-image, it more than made up in
- 15:42sheer scale.
- 15:44The mills multiplied along the canals,
- 15:47the Boot, the Massachusetts, the
- 15:49Hamilton, the [clears throat] Appleton,
- 15:52the Tremont, the Suffolk, the Lawrence,
- 15:55names that would have meant nothing to a
- 15:57farmer in 1820, now stood as some of the
- 16:00largest industrial enterprises on the
- 16:02continent. Their chimneys staining the
- 16:05sky, their wheels turning day and night
- 16:08on the water of the Merrimack.
- 16:10The experiment was over. The factory had
- 16:13won.
- 16:14And for one more generation, the factory
- 16:16would make Lowell the undisputed capital
- 16:19of American manufacturing,
- 16:21a place that did not yet have any reason
- 16:23to imagine it could ever be anything
- 16:25else. By the time Lucy Larcom published
- 16:27her memoir of the mills in 1889,
- 16:30the city she had described was already
- 16:33gone.
- 16:34Larcom had come to Lowell as a child in
- 16:36the 1830s, one of the Yankee farm girls
- 16:40sent to the looms at 11 after her sea
- 16:42captain father died, and left her
- 16:44widowed mother to keep a company
- 16:46boarding house,
- 16:47and had risen out of the spinning room
- 16:50to become a celebrated New England poet.
- 16:53A friend of the abolitionist John
- 16:54Greenleaf Whittier, her verses read
- 16:57across the country.
- 16:58She had lived the model city's bright
- 17:00early chapter, and helped write its
- 17:02legend in the pages of the Lowell
- 17:04Offering.
- 17:06And she lived long enough until 1893 to
- 17:08watch that whole world dissolve.
- 17:12The Yankee mill girls were gone.
- 17:14The city that took their place spoke a
- 17:16dozen languages and answered to no
- 17:18pastoral myth at all.
- 17:20Larkham had watched the looms she once
- 17:22tended pass into the hands of the Irish,
- 17:24then the French, then the Greeks, and
- 17:26she understood that the city had simply
- 17:29found a new people to begin again.
- 17:32What replaced them was larger and harder
- 17:35than anything the founders had pictured.
- 17:38By the second half of the 19th century,
- 17:40the city did not so much contain the
- 17:42mills as belong to them.
- 17:44Stand on a bridge over the Merrimack and
- 17:47you could see the whole machine at once.
- 17:50The river pulled into its canals above
- 17:51the falls. The water threaded through
- 17:54the wheel pits of a dozen great mill
- 17:56complexes. The spent flow returned to
- 17:58the riverbed below.
- 18:00The brick walls ran for blocks, four and
- 18:03five and six stories, acre upon acre of
- 18:06floor.
- 18:07And inside them tens of thousands of
- 18:09looms and spindles turned without pause.
- 18:12At its height, the city's mills produced
- 18:14enough cotton cloth each year to wrap
- 18:17around the earth several times over.
- 18:20The human texture had grown as dense as
- 18:22the production figures.
- 18:24By 1900, nearly half of Lowell's
- 18:26population was foreign-born.
- 18:29Walk the streets in those years and the
- 18:31city announced itself in a dozen
- 18:33tongues.
- 18:35There were the Irish of the Acre, no
- 18:37longer newcomers, but an established
- 18:39community with their own churches and
- 18:42politicians and grievances.
- 18:45There were the French Canadians of
- 18:46Little Canada, packed into tenements
- 18:48along the canals,
- 18:50with their parish bells and their
- 18:52newspapers and their fierce hold on the
- 18:55language they had carried south from
- 18:57Quebec.
- 18:59There were Greeks building a triangle of
- 19:01coffee houses and Orthodox churches in
- 19:04the Acre alongside the Irish, sending
- 19:07money home, importing brides.
- 19:10By the early 1900s, the Greek triangle
- 19:13in the Acre held one of the densest
- 19:16Greek settlements in the country, a few
- 19:18blocks of bakeries, cafenia, and the new
- 19:22Holy Trinity Church.
- 19:24There were Poles and Portuguese and
- 19:26Lithuanians, Armenians who had escaped
- 19:28massacre in the Ottoman Empire,
- 19:31Jewish families running shops along the
- 19:33commercial streets,
- 19:35each group a thread in a fabric no
- 19:38recruiting pamphlet had ever envisioned.
- 19:41Picture the city at the change of a
- 19:43shift,
- 19:44sometime around the turn of the century.
- 19:47The bell in the mill tower begins to
- 19:49ring,
- 19:50and within minutes the great doors open,
- 19:52and the operatives pour into the streets
- 19:54by the thousands.
- 19:56A tide of people moving through canyons
- 19:58of brick.
- 19:59They speak French and Greek and Polish
- 20:01and English in a dozen accents.
- 20:04Many are barely more than children.
- 20:07The air carries cotton lint and coal
- 20:09smoke and the smell of the river,
- 20:11and underneath all of it, constant, the
- 20:14sound of falling water because the
- 20:16canals never stop even when the looms
- 20:18do.
- 20:19Street cars clang along the avenues.
- 20:22A piano carries from an open window.
- 20:25In Little Canada, a woman calls her
- 20:27children in from a stoop. In the Acre, a
- 20:30Greek vendor closes his cart.
- 20:33This is a real city now, immense and
- 20:35various and alive, built on water and
- 20:38cotton,
- 20:39and it has every appearance of
- 20:41permanence.
- 20:42The institutions of a serious city rose
- 20:45to match the mills.
- 20:47Lowell had banks and theaters and grand
- 20:49commercial blocks, hospitals and lodges
- 20:52and a daily press in several languages.
- 20:55It had a public library, and by the
- 20:57close of the century,
- 20:58the beginnings of a university,
- 21:00a normal school founded in 1894 to train
- 21:04teachers,
- 21:05and a textile school the year after,
- 21:07built to keep the city's industry
- 21:09supplied with skilled hands and trained
- 21:12chemists.
- 21:14The very existence of a textile school
- 21:16said something about how Lowell saw
- 21:18itself, as a place whose dominance was a
- 21:20permanent fact of the world, worth
- 21:23investing in for the long horizon.
- 21:26The city had been first.
- 21:29It assumed it would always be central.
- 21:32For the people who lived and worked
- 21:33there, the mills were simply the
- 21:35condition of life,
- 21:38as fixed and unremarkable as the
- 21:40weather.
- 21:41A boy born in Little Canada in 1890
- 21:44would have assumed, with every reason,
- 21:46that his sons would tend looms on the
- 21:48same floors he did.
- 21:50The presidents and reformers who toured
- 21:52the rooms went away impressed, as
- 21:54Dickens had decades before,
- 21:57and pronounced Lowell remarkable, the
- 21:59original,
- 22:00the proof that a young nation could
- 22:02manufacture on a vast scale and still
- 22:05call itself a republic of free labor.
- 22:08But the apex of a thing is also the
- 22:10moment from which the only direction
- 22:12left is down. And the most important
- 22:15fact about Lowell at its height is one
- 22:18almost no one in those streets could
- 22:20see.
- 22:21The advantages that had built the city
- 22:24were not permanent.
- 22:25They were circumstances,
- 22:27and circumstances change.
- 22:30The water that had once been free power
- 22:32was now matched and exceeded by steam.
- 22:35And steam could be raised anywhere,
- 22:37near any coal field, far from any
- 22:39northern river.
- 22:41The capital that had built the mills was
- 22:43loyal to nothing but its own return.
- 22:47And the men who owned Lowell, the heirs
- 22:49of the Boston Associates, were no longer
- 22:51the daring builders of 1820.
- 22:54They were managers of an inheritance,
- 22:57and they had begun, very quietly, to ask
- 23:01whether the inheritance was still worth
- 23:03keeping.
- 23:04The signs were there for anyone willing
- 23:07to look past the production figures.
- 23:09Total employment in the Lowell mills,
- 23:12which had climbed for decades,
- 23:14quietly began to slip after 1890.
- 23:18The mills could make more cloth with
- 23:19fewer hands as the machinery improved,
- 23:22and the owners, rather than reinvesting
- 23:24those gains into modern plants on the
- 23:25Merrimack, were increasingly inclined to
- 23:28take the profits and look elsewhere.
- 23:31Some of the great mills along the canals
- 23:33dated to the 1820s and 1830s, and
- 23:36beneath their dignified brick, the
- 23:37equipment was aging,
- 23:39the layouts outdated, the whole physical
- 23:42plant a generation behind what a
- 23:44newcomer could build from scratch on
- 23:46open ground.
- 23:47The owners knew this. They had always
- 23:49understood their own arithmetic better
- 23:51than anyone.
- 23:52And the arithmetic was beginning to
- 23:54recommend a course that would, in time,
- 23:56empty the city they had made. Here is
- 23:59the thing about
- 24:01a flaw that lives in the ownership of a
- 24:03place
- 24:05rather than in its walls.
- 24:08It cannot be fixed by anyone who lives
- 24:10there.
- 24:12The people of Lowell could strike, could
- 24:14organize, could pour their lives into
- 24:17the looms for three generations,
- 24:19and none of it touched the single fact
- 24:21that decided their future.
- 24:24The mills did not belong to Lowell.
- 24:26They belonged to men in Boston,
- 24:28and to the heirs of those men,
- 24:30and to the shareholders those heirs
- 24:32answered to,
- 24:33and not one of them was obligated to
- 24:35keep a single loom turning on the
- 24:37Merrimack one day longer than it paid to
- 24:40do so.
- 24:41The city had been built by capital, and
- 24:43capital, when the arithmetic changed,
- 24:46would leave exactly as easily as it had
- 24:48come.
- 24:50The arithmetic changed in the South,
- 24:52beginning in earnest after the Civil
- 24:54War, and accelerating through the turn
- 24:56of the century,
- 24:58a new textile industry rose in the
- 25:00Carolinas, and Georgia, and Alabama.
- 25:03And it was built to undercut New England
- 25:06on every line of the ledger.
- 25:08Southern promoters offered land that was
- 25:10cheap, labor that was cheaper,
- 25:13and a workforce with no tradition of
- 25:15organizing and no laws to protect it.
- 25:19There were no 10-hour statutes to worry
- 25:21about, no factory inspectors, no Sarah
- 25:24Baglays with petitions.
- 25:26The cotton itself grew within a wagon's
- 25:28haul of the mill gates, sparing the cost
- 25:30of shipping it north.
- 25:32Energy was abundant. Taxes were low.
- 25:35To a Boston director comparing two
- 25:37columns of figures, the conclusion wrote
- 25:40itself. Why pour money into a
- 25:4260-year-old mill in Massachusetts with
- 25:45its aging machinery, and its union
- 25:47agitation, and its expensive Yankee
- 25:50winter, when the same dollars built a
- 25:52gleaming new plant in a Carolina town
- 25:55that would thank you for coming?
- 25:57So, they did not reinvest. This was the
- 26:00decision made quietly and repeatedly
- 26:03across decades of board meetings that
- 26:06doomed the city.
- 26:08The owners of Lowell's mills chose not
- 26:10to modernize their Lowell operations.
- 26:12They ran the old machinery until it
- 26:14failed, took what profit the worn-out
- 26:17plants could still yield, and funneled
- 26:20the gains into new factories in the
- 26:22south.
- 26:24The mills on the Merrimack were not
- 26:26killed in a single blow.
- 26:29They were allowed to age deliberately,
- 26:32while their owners built their futures
- 26:34somewhere else.
- 26:36For a while, the strategy was invisible
- 26:38to the casual eye,
- 26:40because the looms still ran and the
- 26:43smoke still rose.
- 26:45But, the lifeblood had already been
- 26:47redirected. Lowell was being slowly bled
- 26:51by the very people who were supposed to
- 26:53sustain it.
- 26:54And most of the city would not
- 26:55understand what was happening
- 26:58until the wounds were past healing.
- 27:00The First World War granted a reprieve
- 27:03and a cruel one
- 27:05because it disguised the disease.
- 27:07Military contracts flooded the mills
- 27:10with orders.
- 27:11The machines ran full
- 27:13and for a few years it was possible to
- 27:15believe the old prosperity had returned.
- 27:19It had not.
- 27:20The war ended. The orders dried up and
- 27:23the underlying weakness stood revealed,
- 27:26worse than before.
- 27:28The early departures had already begun
- 27:31even during the boom. The Bigelow Carpet
- 27:33Company
- 27:35descended from one of the city's
- 27:36founding firms left in 1914.
- 27:40The Middlesex Mills stopped in 1918.
- 27:44These were the first of the founding
- 27:46names to go and they were a warning that
- 27:48few wanted to read.
- 27:50Then came the collapse in earnest. In
- 27:531926, a wave of closings broke over the
- 27:56city.
- 27:57The Hamilton Company went into
- 27:59receivership. Suffolk, Tremont, and
- 28:02Massachusetts Mills followed it down.
- 28:05The Appleton Company packed up and moved
- 28:07its production south and the Lowell
- 28:09Machine Shop which had built the very
- 28:12looms that ran the city, shifted its
- 28:14work north to Maine.
- 28:16One after another, the great names that
- 28:19had stood for a century went dark or
- 28:21went away.
- 28:23By the middle of the 1930s, of all the
- 28:25original giant mills that had made
- 28:27Lowell the capital of American
- 28:28manufacturing, only three were still
- 28:31running. The Merrimack, the Lawrence,
- 28:33and the Boot.
- 28:35The forest of working chimneys had been
- 28:36thinned to a handful
- 28:38and the population, which is the truest
- 28:41measure of a city's fortunes, told the
- 28:43story in a single arc. Lowell's numbers
- 28:46had climbed for a hundred years, swelled
- 28:49by every wave of immigrants the mills
- 28:51drew in.
- 28:52They reached their peak in the 1920s
- 28:56at 112,759
- 28:59people, and then
- 29:01just as the industry that had summoned
- 29:03them began to leave, the climb stopped
- 29:06and the long decline began.
- 29:09The city had filled up around the looms.
- 29:12Now the looms were falling silent one
- 29:14room at a time.
- 29:15And there was less and less reason for
- 29:18anyone to stay.
- 29:20The Great Depression, when it came, fell
- 29:22on a city that was already wounded.
- 29:25While the rest of the country discovered
- 29:26hardship for the first time, Lowell had
- 29:29been living a private version of it for
- 29:31years, and the national catastrophe
- 29:33simply deepened a local one.
- 29:36Through the 1930s, the city carried some
- 29:38of the worst unemployment rates in the
- 29:40United States.
- 29:41The mills that remained limped along on
- 29:43thin orders.
- 29:45The Second World War brought another
- 29:47false dawn.
- 29:48Another flood of military contracts, the
- 29:51Boot Mills running flat out to weave
- 29:53twill for uniforms. Half the Navy
- 29:56reportedly dressed in its cloth.
- 29:58But everyone who understood the business
- 30:00knew it was a stay of execution and
- 30:02nothing more.
- 30:03The contracts would end.
- 30:05And when they did,
- 30:07the last reason to keep an obsolete mill
- 30:09open in Massachusetts would end with
- 30:11them.
- 30:13The execution arrived in the 1950s.
- 30:16The last great textile operations in
- 30:18Lowell shut their doors,
- 30:20and the symbolic end came for the Boot,
- 30:23one of the final three survivors,
- 30:25the mill that had run twill for the
- 30:27Navy.
- 30:28Its owners, having squeezed what they
- 30:30could from it, sold the operation to a
- 30:33southern concern, Alabama Mills, for a
- 30:35little over a million and a half
- 30:37dollars.
- 30:38The new owners did what new owners in
- 30:41that position always did. They had not
- 30:43bought the boot to run it.
- 30:45They bought it to close it. To take a
- 30:47competitor off the board and consolidate
- 30:50the work down south.
- 30:51And so they shut it down.
- 30:54The looms that had been turning on the
- 30:55banks of the Merrimack since the 1830s
- 30:58stopped for good.
- 31:00The water still fell over Pawtucket
- 31:02Falls.
- 31:03The canals still ran.
- 31:05But the machines they had been dug to
- 31:06power stood silent now in buildings
- 31:09going dark
- 31:10a had forgotten how to be anything but a
- 31:12mill town.
- 31:13And did not yet know what, if anything,
- 31:16it could become instead. By the 1960s,
- 31:19Lowell had reached the bottom.
- 31:21And the bottom was a quiet, grinding
- 31:24kind of place.
- 31:25The mills stood empty along the canals,
- 31:28their windows broken or boarded, their
- 31:30floors gathering pigeon droppings and
- 31:32rust.
- 31:34The city's economy had cratered.
- 31:36And what hung over everything was not
- 31:38just poverty, but a kind of shame.
- 31:42The people who remained were, many of
- 31:44them,
- 31:45the children and grandchildren of the
- 31:46immigrants who had run the looms.
- 31:49And they did not look back on the mill
- 31:50years with pride.
- 31:53They remembered the long hours, the lint
- 31:55disease, the dangerous machines,
- 31:58the indignities their parents had
- 31:59swallowed.
- 32:01To them the great brick buildings were
- 32:03not monuments.
- 32:04They were the scene of a hardship the
- 32:06family had been trying to climb out of
- 32:08for a generation.
- 32:09And the most natural thing in the world
- 32:12was to want them gone.
- 32:14That impulse very nearly won.
- 32:17As the city cast about for some way to
- 32:19revive its dead downtown, the canals
- 32:21came to be seen not as the bones of the
- 32:23place, but as an obstacle.
- 32:25Stagnant ditches running through the
- 32:27middle of valuable real estate.
- 32:30There were serious proposals to fill
- 32:31them in.
- 32:32Pave them over, the thinking went,
- 32:35and you might have land for parking, for
- 32:37new construction, for anything more
- 32:39useful than a network of empty waterways
- 32:42that no longer powered anything.
- 32:45The system of canals that had been the
- 32:47entire reason for the city's existence,
- 32:50the veins of free power that the
- 32:52engineers had threaded through bedrock
- 32:54in the 1820s, was now regarded by many
- 32:57as junk to be buried.
- 32:59"Keep the canals in mind." The story
- 33:01said at the beginning. This is the
- 33:04moment they almost vanished.
- 33:07They survived because a handful of
- 33:08people saw something in Lowell that most
- 33:11of its own residents had stopped being
- 33:13able to see.
- 33:14Chief among them was an educator
- 33:17named Patrick Mogan who arrived at an
- 33:20idea that sounded at first
- 33:23slightly mad.
- 33:25That the city's salvation lay precisely
- 33:28in the history it was trying to erase.
- 33:31The mills, the canals, the immigrant
- 33:34neighborhoods,
- 33:35the whole hard inheritance of the
- 33:37Industrial Revolution
- 33:40were not a wound to be hidden,
- 33:42but a story unlike any other in America.
- 33:46And a story, properly told, could draw
- 33:49people, money, and pride
- 33:52back to a place that had run out of all
- 33:53three.
- 33:55What if Lowell stopped apologizing for
- 33:57being the first industrial city and
- 34:00started charging admission to it?
- 34:02The idea found its champion in a young
- 34:05politician who happened to be a son of
- 34:07the city.
- 34:08Paul Tsongas had grown up in Lowell,
- 34:11the child of Greek immigrants. And when
- 34:13he won a seat in Congress in the 1970s,
- 34:16he carried an unusual loyalty to his
- 34:18battered hometown.
- 34:20Tsongas grasped what Mogan was proposing
- 34:23and threw the weight of federal office
- 34:25behind it.
- 34:26The fight was not easy.
- 34:28The notion of a national park in a
- 34:30decayed industrial city with no
- 34:32mountains and no battlefields, only old
- 34:35mills and dirty water, struck many as
- 34:38absurd.
- 34:39But Saugus and his allies pressed, and
- 34:42in 1978, they won.
- 34:45President Carter signed legislation
- 34:47creating the Lowell National Historical
- 34:49Park,
- 34:50the first national park in the country
- 34:52built not around natural wonder or a
- 34:55single famous event,
- 34:57but around the industrial and working
- 34:59history of an American city.
- 35:02It was an extraordinary reversal, and
- 35:04its logic was almost poetic.
- 35:07The very things that had been slated for
- 35:09demolition became the assets.
- 35:12The dead mills, instead of being torn
- 35:14down, were cleaned, stabilized, and
- 35:17opened to visitors who could walk the
- 35:19floors where the looms had stood and
- 35:21hear the deafening roar reconstructed in
- 35:24a single restored weave room. The
- 35:27canals, instead of being filled in, were
- 35:30dredged and bordered with walkways, and
- 35:33tour boats began to run along the same
- 35:35channels that had once driven the
- 35:37wheels.
- 35:39The water that had built the city and
- 35:41then been condemned as an obstacle was
- 35:43now its centerpiece,
- 35:45the thing people came to see.
- 35:48What capital had abandoned, heritage
- 35:50reclaimed. The park did not by itself
- 35:53save Lowell, but it changed the city's
- 35:55idea of what it could be,
- 35:57and the rest followed in fits and
- 35:59starts.
- 36:00The mills found new life as apartments
- 36:02and offices, museums and studios, their
- 36:05vast floors and tall windows turning out
- 36:08to be exactly what a later economy
- 36:10wanted.
- 36:11Around the same time, a different kind
- 36:13of rescue arrived in the form of new
- 36:15industry.
- 36:16A computer company called Wang
- 36:17Laboratories, a pioneer of the word
- 36:19processor in the days before the
- 36:21personal computer,
- 36:23built its headquarters in Lowell in the
- 36:251970s and grew explosively,
- 36:28bringing thousands of jobs and a flush
- 36:31of high technology optimism to a city
- 36:34that had not felt any in 50 years.
- 36:37For a brief heady stretch in the 1980s,
- 36:40it seemed Lowell had pulled off the
- 36:41impossible, reinventing itself from a
- 36:44dead mill town into a tech town in a
- 36:46single generation.
- 36:49That particular dream did not hold.
- 36:52Wang misjudged the rise of the personal
- 36:54computer. The technology it had bet
- 36:56against turned on it,
- 36:58and the company collapsed into
- 37:00bankruptcy in 1992.
- 37:02Its towers emptying nearly as fast as
- 37:05the mills had a half century before.
- 37:08It was a hard reminder that no single
- 37:10employer was ever going to be Lowell's
- 37:12permanent salvation.
- 37:14The city had learned that lesson once
- 37:16already, with cotton,
- 37:18and here it was again,
- 37:20with computers.
- 37:22But this time the collapse did not
- 37:24return the city to the bottom. The park
- 37:26endured.
- 37:27The restored mills endured.
- 37:30And another transformation, quieter and
- 37:33more lasting than Wang, had been
- 37:35underway in the streets the whole time.
- 37:38For Lowell, having been built and
- 37:40rebuilt by immigrants for a century and
- 37:42a half,
- 37:43was about to be remade by them once
- 37:45more.
- 37:46Beginning in 1975,
- 37:48refugees from the wars of Southeast Asia
- 37:51started arriving in the city, the first
- 37:53of a wave of Cambodians fleeing the
- 37:55killing fields of the Khmer Rouge. They
- 37:58came at first in small numbers, drawn by
- 38:00the jobs the Wang boom was throwing off,
- 38:02and then in larger ones as word spread
- 38:05through the scattered Cambodian diaspora
- 38:08that Lowell was a place where you could
- 38:09find work, find countrymen,
- 38:12find a foothold.
- 38:14They filled the old triple-deckers and
- 38:16the empty storefronts. They opened
- 38:18groceries and temples and restaurants.
- 38:21By 1990, Lowell held one of the largest
- 38:24Cambodian communities in the United
- 38:26States, second only to Long Beach,
- 38:28California, a new immigrant city rising
- 38:31inside the bones of the old one. On the
- 38:33same streets where the Irish and the
- 38:35French Canadians and the Greeks had each
- 38:37in their turn made a beginning, the
- 38:39Cambodians who came to Lowell were not
- 38:41chasing a dream of opportunity the way
- 38:43the Yankee farm girls had.
- 38:46They were running from something
- 38:47unspeakable.
- 38:49They had survived a regime that murdered
- 38:51perhaps 2 million of their countrymen,
- 38:54that emptied the cities, that killed the
- 38:56educated and the literate as a matter of
- 38:58policy.
- 39:00They arrived having lost parents,
- 39:02children, whole families, and they set
- 39:04about the oldest work in Lowell's
- 39:06repertoire, the work the city had been
- 39:08doing since 1826,
- 39:11starting over.
- 39:13They learned the language.
- 39:14They sent their kids to the public
- 39:16schools.
- 39:17They ran for the school committee and
- 39:19the city council.
- 39:21They turned a stretch of decayed
- 39:22downtown into a corridor of Cambodian
- 39:25groceries and noodle shops and gold
- 39:27merchants, and they built in time one of
- 39:30the great Buddhist temples of the
- 39:31American Northeast.
- 39:33A century earlier, the city had absorbed
- 39:36the Irish, the French, the Greeks.
- 39:40Now it absorbed Cambodia
- 39:42and was changed again
- 39:44and endured.
- 39:45This is the pattern that finally comes
- 39:48clear when you stand far enough back
- 39:50from Lowell's story.
- 39:52The city was never really about cotton
- 39:54or computers
- 39:56or any single thing it happened to make.
- 39:59Those were the occasions of its
- 40:01existence, not its substance. What
- 40:03Lowell actually did, over and over for
- 40:06200 years, was taking people the rest of
- 40:09the world had no use for, the surplus
- 40:12daughters of hill farms, the starving
- 40:14Irish, the refugees of famine and
- 40:16massacre and genocide and give them a
- 40:19place to begin.
- 40:21The industry that started it all was a
- 40:24means to that end and when the industry
- 40:27left, the deeper function remained.
- 40:31The looms fell silent. The work of
- 40:34beginning again did not.
- 40:37The man who had argued for the park did
- 40:39not live to see how far the recovery
- 40:41would run.
- 40:43Paul Tsongas, who had carried Lowell's
- 40:45cause into Congress and saved its mills
- 40:49from the wrecking ball, died of cancer
- 40:52in 1997,
- 40:54not yet 56 years old.
- 40:56He had gone on to the United States
- 40:58Senate and even run for president, but
- 41:01his most durable monument was the city
- 41:03itself, pulled back from the edge of
- 41:06demolition and given a second reason to
- 41:09exist. They named the downtown arena for
- 41:12him.
- 41:13It is the kind of legacy that outlasts
- 41:16most political careers, a whole city
- 41:19that did not disappear.
- 41:21Walk through Lowell today and the
- 41:23contradictions sit comfortably side by
- 41:26side.
- 41:27The great mills still line the canals,
- 41:30their brick scrubbed and pointed, but
- 41:32behind the historic facades are loft
- 41:35apartments and university classrooms and
- 41:38the offices of the very national park
- 41:40that saved them.
- 41:42The University of Massachusetts Lowell,
- 41:44grown from that modest textile school of
- 41:47the 1890s, sprawls across the city now.
- 41:51A research institution where a school
- 41:53for training mill hands once stood.
- 41:56The downtown that nearly drowned in its
- 41:58own decay carries a folk festival every
- 42:00summer that draws hundreds of thousands.
- 42:03The population, which bottomed out in
- 42:05the long decline, has climbed back to
- 42:08something near its historic peak, more
- 42:10than a hundred thousand people
- 42:13Though the faces are different now. A
- 42:15city that is genuinely of the whole
- 42:18world. With no single group a majority.
- 42:22The mills themselves have become the
- 42:24strangest kind of inheritance.
- 42:27A thing the founders could never have
- 42:29intended and would scarcely comprehend.
- 42:32The boot, the last mill to run twill for
- 42:35the navy, the one sold off to be closed,
- 42:38is now a museum of the industrial
- 42:41revolution.
- 42:41Its restored weave room thundering with
- 42:43looms run not for profit, but for
- 42:46instruction.
- 42:48So that visitors might feel in their
- 42:49chests the sound that once filled the
- 42:52whole valley.
- 42:53The buildings that were monuments to
- 42:55capital became monuments to labor.
- 42:58To the women and immigrants who actually
- 43:00ran them.
- 43:02The story the city once tried to bury is
- 43:04now the story it sells and tells and
- 43:07protects.
- 43:09And the canals still run.
- 43:11This is the detail to hold on to. The
- 43:14one the story planted at the very
- 43:16beginning and has carried all the way to
- 43:18the end.
- 43:20The men who designed Lowell threaded
- 43:22those waterways through the bedrock to
- 43:23steal power from a falling river.
- 43:26And for a century they were the secret
- 43:28engine of American industry.
- 43:31Then the industry died and the canals
- 43:34were condemned as worthless ditches
- 43:36marked for burial.
- 43:38They were saved by people who understood
- 43:41that the water was the whole point.
- 43:43That it had been the point all along.
- 43:46Today the tour boats slide along those
- 43:48same channels past the wheel pits where
- 43:51the great turbines used to turn.
- 43:53And the water moves exactly as it always
- 43:56has. Pulled from the Merrimack above the
- 43:59falls and returned to it below.
- 44:02Francis Cabot Lowell never saw any of
- 44:04this.
- 44:05He died in 1817.
- 44:08a Boston merchant with a stolen idea in
- 44:10his head and a fortune he meant to
- 44:12multiply years before the first canal
- 44:14was cut in the farmland that would bear
- 44:16his name. He could not have imagined the
- 44:18city or the mill girls or the strikes or
- 44:22the Irish in the acre or the Greeks or
- 44:25the long bleeding out as the work he
- 44:27pioneered fled to the south or the empty
- 44:30decades or the refugees from a country
- 44:33he had never heard of building temples
- 44:34in the ruins of his factories.
- 44:36He thought he was building a way to make
- 44:38cloth and money.
- 44:40What the men around him actually started
- 44:43on a stretch of riverbank where the
- 44:44water fell 32 ft was a place that would
- 44:48spend the next two centuries doing
- 44:50something he never planned and could not
- 44:53have understood.
- 44:55Taking in the world's discarded people
- 44:57and letting them begin again.
- 45:01The cotton is long gone.
- 45:04The river still falls over Pawtucket
- 45:07Falls. The canals still carry it
- 45:10and the city those waters made still
- 45:13stands.
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