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The ONLY science-backed anti-aging skincare video you’ll ever need to watch — Transcript

by Natalie O'Neill · 9,179 words · 1,283 segments · language en · Watch on YouTube

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0:00Okay, welcome back. My last video kind
0:02of blew up and I wasn't expecting it.
0:03So, I thought, what can I do to follow
0:05that for you with another comprehensive
0:08video that after watching it, you'll
0:09feel like you don't need to watch any
0:11other video on the subject matter. And I
0:13thought this is the one. So, in this
0:14video, I'm going to cover everything
0:16that you need to be doing to have a
0:18minimalist routine that covers all of
0:20the scientific bases for how to not
0:23prevent aging, but prevent premature
0:25aging. Because I do think that trying to
0:27prevent aging in general can be really
0:29toxic. And I completely understand that.
0:30But I personally don't see why we would
0:32want to encourage premature aging, which
0:34is where the sun has accelerated your
0:36aging, your lifestyle is accelerating
0:38your aging, so you can't live longer,
0:40and you get to an older age and feel
0:41like you have to pay for treatments to
0:42address hyperpigmentation and all of
0:44these things that could be prevented. I
0:46personally like to prevent premature
0:47aging, not aging in general. And that is
0:50the distinction for this video. But I
0:52also hate having a 20step routine. And I
0:54personally have researched all of this
0:56to the high heavens. And if you know me,
0:57you know everything I do in my life is
0:59very considered. Recently been diagnosed
1:01with autism. Usually get hate when I say
1:03that because people are angry at the
1:04fact that autism looks different in
1:06different people. But I do think it
1:07contributes to how I live my life. I
1:09like everything I do to have a purpose,
1:11be scientifically researched, and
1:13ultimately allow me to know that
1:14everything I'm doing is going to
1:15contribute positively to my later life.
1:17Not just based on the way that I look,
1:19based on the way that I feel, my health.
1:21So, in this video, I'm going to go
1:22through everything you need from
1:23skincare to daily habits to know that
1:26you are preventing premature aging based
1:28on all of the chunkiest scientific
1:29research without having a 20 30 step
1:32routine that you feel like you're a
1:33slave to. You feel like you're
1:34constantly overopting your life and
1:35sometimes you take a step back and
1:37think, I'm not actually enjoying this
1:38because that is the opposite of what I
1:39want you to get from this video. I'm
1:41going to give you the science. I'm going
1:42to whittle it all down into what
1:43actually matters. And I'm also going to
1:45tell you what I do and what I've
1:46implemented in my life. So, you get my
1:48routine and also what the science says.
1:50To be honest, there's not a lot of
1:51difference because I do what the science
1:52says, but I also want to enjoy my life.
1:54So, if that resonates, this is the video
1:56for you. First thing I'm going to cover,
1:57skincare essentials. All the skincare
1:59you need to cover all the bases without
2:01having a 20-step routine knowing that
2:02you're covering all the bases according
2:04to science. Second thing is the nice to
2:05haves, things that are nice to have but
2:07are not as important as the fundamental
2:09building blocks in part one. The third
2:11chapter is all about trends. For
2:12example, PDRN. The fourth chapter is
2:14about daily habits. What does life say
2:16about the way you live your life? What
2:18could we do to optimize our life without
2:19feeling, like I said, a slave to our
2:21life? I think life is to be enjoyed. I
2:23just like to know that 80% of the time
2:25I'm doing the right things to make me
2:26feel good on a day-to-day basis, and
2:28help me achieve my goals in work, in the
2:30gym, feel healthy, live longer, and
2:33hopefully not get that many diseases.
2:34But I'm 31, so that's the 80% of my
2:36life. But the 20% of my life, I want to
2:38enjoy it. So, I will go to bed late. I
2:40will drink alcohol. I will lose out on
2:42sleep for a week if I'm having a really
2:43busy time in my life. And everything in
2:45that week, I want to do. Sometimes I
2:46make sacrifices, sometimes I don't. I
2:48think life is all about balance. But
2:49it's good to have a few anchor habits
2:51that you do on repeat throughout the
2:53year and subsequent years of your life
2:55to know that you're building something
2:56healthy well into the future that will
2:58also make your skin glow cuz most of
3:00those things do both. The fifth part is
3:02all about what's the max your skin care
3:04can do if you've been considering Botox.
3:06I'm not saying that anyone has to get
3:07Botox, but I do think it's good to know
3:08like what's the limitation of skincare
3:10and when is Botox the only thing that's
3:12actually going to work cuz there are
3:13quite a few scenarios where that is the
3:14case. And the sixth part is a checklist.
3:16Everything from this video summed up
3:18into everything that I would recommend
3:20doing. Okay. The first part is skincare.
3:22If you come across me before, this won't
3:23be a surprise to you, but I think there
3:25are three essentials to preventing
3:27premature aging. And I shouldn't have
3:28said, I think, because this is what the
3:30science says. Firstly, retinoids. I've
3:32talked about retinoids for such a long
3:34time. I originally started using them to
3:35get rid of all my closedcomones. Little
3:37did I know, or rather, I did know at the
3:39time, but it wasn't as important to me
3:40at the time because at the time I was
3:4225. I'm now 31. I didn't realize how
3:44much retinoids would blow my socks off
3:46for premature aging. I knew at the time
3:48that they were the gold standard, but
3:50that gold standard terminology kind of
3:52just washed over me. It didn't have much
3:54weight for me because at the time I was
3:55focused on my acne. Clomidal acne, by
3:57the way, is a type of acne. A lot of
3:58people think that it's not. It is. And
4:00then after a couple of years, I'd
4:01cleared all that acne and I was really
4:03enjoying how it made my skin look. I
4:04feel like it made my skin plumper. I
4:06used to have a couple of fine lines
4:07here, which because my eyebrow muscles
4:09are uneven, I can do this, but I can't
4:11do it the other way around. that I had a
4:12couple of lines that would stay here and
4:14honestly at 31 and in my late 20s those
4:17lines are basically invisible and when I
4:19was literally 23 24 they were visible.
4:22So a combination of all of these factors
4:24has helped but the retinoid especially I
4:26think just completely erase those lines.
4:28I'm going to be honest because it's not
4:29like I don't still raise my eyebrows
4:31from time to time about once a year. And
4:33when it comes to the science a retinoid
4:34is simply unbeaten. It's simply unbeaten
4:37because it takes decades to be able to
4:39observe amazing anti-aging results. And
4:41this is why when you compare it to
4:43something like PDRN, which we will go
4:44into later, it's incomparable. You can't
4:46compare something like PDRN to retinoids
4:48because retinoids have been observed,
4:50people who've used retinoids have been
4:52observed decades. And it was actually
4:53initially created for acne. And then
4:55they observed that people who were using
4:56it were aging like fine wine. And they
4:58were like, hang on, let's do some more
4:59research into this and see how it's
5:01impacting people's aging. Out of
5:03everything that's ever created, it by
5:04far has the most substantial,
5:06significant, well-rated, well-conducted
5:09research into fine lines, collagen
5:11synthesis, which very few things can do.
5:13Even collagen cream, even collagen
5:15tablets, there is nothing that compares
5:16a topical collagen synthesis to a
5:19retinoid. There's just nothing that
5:20compares, which is a real shame because
5:21you can't use it when you're pregnant.
5:22If you're not pregnant or trying to
5:23conceive, a retinoid is where it's at.
5:25And it will take a long time for us to
5:27find something that competes with that.
5:28Like I said, it's taken decades of
5:30research. You can't just have another
5:32few decades pass by. It takes such a
5:34long time. It takes decades to pass by.
5:35So for another ingredient to beat that,
5:37it's just very unlikely. Maybe in our
5:39lifetime, which I find fascinating. And
5:41I do have a lot of other videos on how
5:42retinoids work. I don't want to get too
5:44heavy into that in this video.
5:46Otherwise, it's going to be very long.
5:47But all you need to know is retinoids
5:48speed up skin cell turnover. They purge
5:50everything from the inside out. And they
5:52also cause collagen synthesis. So
5:54they'll even out your skin tone. They'll
5:55reduce your acne to near nothing. You
5:57won't have any clogged pores. Your skin
5:59will be super smooth. It will reflect
6:00the light. My skin reflects the light
6:02really well. And I put that largely down
6:03to retinoid and aelic acid. You'll undo
6:06sun damage. You'll prevent and reverse
6:07hyperpigmentation. Your skin will look
6:09plumper. Like there's really no end to
6:10retinoid benefits in my opinion. Okay,
6:12moving on cuz otherwise it's going to be
6:13so long. Second out of the three
6:15essentials for skin care if you want to
6:17prevent premature aging as much as
6:18possible. Sunscreen. A lot of people
6:20think that sunscreen is just about
6:21preventing burn. And what they don't
6:22realize is that all visible light, all
6:24the light coming in through my window
6:26right here is melting collagen in real
6:28time. Well, maybe not in real time, but
6:29it's melting collagen. And collagen is
6:31what keeps our skin plump. Because when
6:32you have a nice even layer of collagen,
6:34everything is like pushed up and out
6:36like a balloon with like enough air in
6:38it to not have like little wrinkles and
6:40sags. And then the moment our collagen
6:41production starts to slow, which is late
6:4320s, 30s, that like nice even layer
6:46starts to like develop like wrinkles and
6:48dimples a little bit like cellulite. And
6:50then gradually in combination with the
6:51fact that you know you move your face a
6:53lot. Like if I were to do this all the
6:54time, these lines would become
6:55permanent. That would be crows feet. So,
6:57the goal with all the skincare
6:58essentials is to maximize collagen
7:00synthesis and minimize collagen
7:02breakdown. And sunscreen, using it all
7:04year round, one that's UVA and UVB
7:07protective, which to be honest is the
7:08majority of sunscreens these days, you
7:09want to be using it every single day
7:11because visible light doesn't matter if
7:12it's summer, doesn't matter what the UV
7:14index is, use it all the time. If this
7:16is your goal, if your goal is to see
7:18your skin age as well as possible, and
7:19also let's not forget sunscreen prevents
7:21skin cancer. I think a lot of people get
7:23caught up in the like how it's making my
7:25skin look. It's like you'll also prevent
7:26skin cancer which obviously can kill you
7:28and you'll also save a lot of money
7:30later in life if you don't wear
7:32sunscreen now or if you only wear
7:33sunscreen in the summer. You are going
7:35to get pigmentation. You are going to
7:36see your skin get less even throughout
7:38your later life because sun damage
7:40appears later in life from like 30 35
7:42onwards is when people start to see like
7:44patches of like darkness and then they
7:46think that that's happened recently. It
7:48hasn't happened recently. It's been
7:49acrewing your whole life that you
7:50haven't been protecting your skin and
7:51it's coming out now and it's really
7:53difficult and expensive to reverse that.
7:55So, sunscreen will prevent your collagen
7:57from breaking down. Wear it everyday.
7:59Don't even think about it. My pet peeve
8:00is when people look on their phone and
8:01go, "It's only UV3." I don't care.
8:03Politely, I don't care. Unless you don't
8:05care. Unless you don't care about what
8:06happens to your skin, then that's fine.
8:07But like those two things essential. The
8:10third thing, hydration, because a
8:11retinoid can make your skin look drier
8:13or feel drier or just be drier. And
8:15sometimes that can make you look a bit
8:17crusty, musty, dusty if you don't have
8:19enough hydration in your routine. I
8:21personally I wake up in the morning, I
8:22don't wash my face because I notice that
8:24my skin and my skin barrier stay a lot
8:27healthier, a lot more resilient, way
8:28less flare- ups, and hold a lot more
8:30moisture when I don't wash my face in
8:32the morning. I'm not saying that you
8:33have to do that. It doesn't work for
8:34everyone, but that is something that I
8:36do as an example. And then, not only
8:38will I not wash my face in the morning
8:39to preserve the moisture, I will apply a
8:41hydrating serum directly to my skin. No
8:43washing, no water. People always say not
8:45even with water, not even with water.
8:47Hydrating serum, moisturizer, then a
8:49sunscreen. That is three layers of
8:50hydration. The final layer locks in all
8:53of that water to prevent transepidermal
8:55water loss, which is water evaporating
8:56out of your skin, which is happening at
8:57all times. And then in the evening, I do
8:59the same barrier serum and moisturizer.
9:01That means on a daily basis, I have five
9:03steps that are hydrating my skin because
9:05skin that isn't hydrated chronically
9:07over years will age faster. If your skin
9:09isn't lubricated, little creases and
9:11things that are completely normal, but
9:13for the purpose of this video, those
9:15creases turn into fine lines, turn into
9:16wrinkles, turn into a weakened barrier
9:18if you're chronically underhydrating
9:20your skin and not locking that hydration
9:22in. That's why it's part of the holy
9:23trinity for me because even if you have
9:25the retinoid, even if you have the
9:26sunscreen, if your skin is chronically
9:28dehydrated, it's not going to look good
9:29and it will allow fine lines to set in
9:32prematurely. And the last thing I'm
9:33going to say on this before we move on
9:34to the nice to haves is I like to think
9:36of the choices that you make with your
9:38skin as like long-term bets. Because if
9:40you wake up every day and you apply
9:42different stuff to your face every day,
9:43you're basically hedging your bets
9:45across far too many things. Because if
9:47you change what you apply on a weekly
9:49basis, you're not actually getting
9:50enough reps in with any of those active
9:52ingredients to really guarantee that
9:54you're going to see any results from
9:55them in like 10 years, 20 years because
9:58everything you do on a daily basis
9:59compounds. The things that you choose
10:01are the things that you are essentially
10:02placing your bet on. You're saying, "I
10:04have one life that you should live it
10:06and not focus too much on skincare." But
10:08I know that we're all nerds about this
10:09and I think it's okay. You have one
10:11shot, one opportunity, feeling very
10:12Eminem. You want to place your money on
10:14the heavy hitters. The retinoid, which
10:16has decades worth of results, pales in
10:18comparison to PDRN, which doesn't. The
10:20sunscreen, which has decades worth of
10:22results. Science tells us time and time
10:24and time again, sunscreen will help your
10:25skin tone stay even because any of the
10:27marks that you get on your face from
10:29pimples will just darken. They'll get a
10:30little tan over time if you don't
10:32protect them with sunscreen. You're also
10:34far more at risk of getting skin cancer,
10:35which is not sexy by any means. People
10:37seem to forget about it. And then
10:39hydration is just essential to humans
10:41living topically and internally. So, if
10:44you want to place your bet and have the
10:45simplest possible routine with the
10:47biggest upside later in life, a retinoid
10:49sunscreen, hydration, and one last thing
10:51on hydration. A lot of people think that
10:52using a moisturizer is them like
10:54checking the box of hydration. In my
10:56opinion, no. Because a moisturizer is
10:58designed to hydrate and lock in that
10:59hydration. It's designed to be like a
11:01twoin one, which is fine and they are
11:03effective. However, if hydration is your
11:05goal, you want glowier skin. You want
11:07your makeup to go on better. You want
11:08your skin to look hydrated and it be
11:10noticeably plumped. You're going to have
11:12to use more than one step. Like I said,
11:14use a mist. Use a serum and moisturizer
11:16than sunscreen. That's four steps. You
11:17don't have to use a mist. If you have
11:19one hydration step in your routine, that
11:21is probably why your skin is dehydrated.
11:23Moving on to the next part. I've written
11:24down two here that are nice to haves.
11:26Azelleic acid and vitamin C. I want to
11:28talk about acid first cuz I think a lot
11:30of people are going to be like, "Isn't
11:31your whole thing aic acid?" And I'm
11:32like, "Kind of." But as acid is more of
11:34a nice to have than an essential simply
11:36because whilst I love azelleic acid and
11:38I will never stop using it because you
11:40can use it when you're trying to
11:41conceive and when you're pregnant which
11:42by the way I'm nowhere near doing but
11:44I've always thought to myself and I
11:45always say on social if you can't use a
11:47retinoid cuz you're pregnant or trying
11:48to conceive or whatever acid is the one
11:51because and again I have other more
11:53detailed videos on the depths of acid. I
11:56mean the one I posted before this one
11:58blew up so that's the one for you.
11:59Fundamentally, it's anti-inflammatory
12:01and it's a tyrosinase inhibitor.
12:03Anti-inflammatory is great because it
12:04communicates with the skin's immune
12:06system. When your skin is like flaring
12:08up and unhappy, it can just tell it to
12:10be like sh calm down. And
12:12[clears throat] I find that it does
12:13that. And that's why I first started
12:14using it cuz I had perod dermatitis. And
12:16now my parolymatitis is very much in
12:18control. Secondly, the tyrosinase
12:20inhibitor part sounds complicated. All
12:22it means is that when your skin is going
12:24through the process of producing
12:26pigmentation, it's a multi-step process
12:28happening within the skin and then the
12:29pigmentation is brought to the surface.
12:30A tyroinase inhibitor of which there are
12:32a few in skincare intercepts that
12:34process, stops it from happening. So
12:36that's why azelleic acid is great for
12:38melasma, evening out the skin tone.
12:40That's why people get that like glowing
12:41sheen. I really feel like even though my
12:43skin was even before I used Azelleic
12:45acid, I really feel like it took it to
12:47that next level. And I honestly wasn't
12:49expecting it. I didn't even expect to
12:50see a difference other than in my peril
12:52damatitis and how wrong I was. But as
12:54amazing as aelic acid is, and despite
12:56how much I think most people watching
12:58this video would benefit from it, I
13:00don't think it's an essential. That's
13:01why I didn't put it in the previous
13:03category because it does have anti-aging
13:05benefits, but just not to the same
13:07degree as a retinoid sunscreen and
13:08hydration. If you want a simple routine,
13:10you don't have to use azelleic acid. You
13:12probably would really love azelleic acid
13:14and I tend to suggest it to the majority
13:15of people. Even though I do like to
13:17personalize my suggestions, it does have
13:19many amazing benefits and that's why I
13:20would suggest it to most people.
13:21However, I don't think it's as essential
13:23for like long-term into the future
13:25premature aging prevention. And then we
13:26have vitamin C, which also is a
13:28tyrrosinos inhibitor, but I personally
13:30gave up on vitamin C 6 years ago. I used
13:32to use The Ordinaries as gluccoside
13:35every single day. And honestly, I did
13:36really like it. And I've been thinking
13:38in general about going back to vitamin C
13:40simply because I've kind of healed a lot
13:41of my skin trauma. I feel much more in
13:44control of my skin. And I feel like I
13:45understand my skin and skin in general.
13:47Like my knowledge now compared to 6
13:49years ago is just 1000xed maybe. So I
13:52feel like I'm open to trying it again
13:54because it can stimulate collagen
13:55synthesis, but not as well documented as
13:57a retinoid, which is again why I didn't
13:59put it in the first category. And the
14:00other reason I didn't put it in the
14:01first category, vitamin C is notoriously
14:03unstable. Often times you might buy it
14:05and within 3 months you already have to
14:06throw it in the bin. The other thing is
14:08that it can be really irritating. So if
14:10you have hyperpigmentation issues and
14:12you're using something that's
14:13irritating, you're kind of playing
14:14chicken and egg because irritation spurs
14:16hyperpigmentation on, which is why I
14:18think azelleic acid is just a better
14:20option for most people. However, like I
14:22said, these are nice to haves. There's
14:24no reason you can't find a more stable
14:26vitamin C. There's lots of reviews
14:28online and I myself am thinking it's
14:30been 6 years since I quit. There will be
14:32stable versions. There will be well-reed
14:34stable versions that effectively rules
14:36that out as a problem. And secondly,
14:37they become a lot less irritating as
14:39well. There's so many more formulas that
14:41I'm sure somewhere out there there will
14:42be a version that I can use that is
14:44stable and non-erritating. And that's
14:45why it's a nice to have, but I still
14:47don't think it goes into that first
14:48category, retinoid, sunscreen,
14:50hydration. It's just not as essential as
14:51that. I think if you use a retinoid
14:53sunscreen and hydration, you will age
14:55immaculately as long as you also don't
14:57tan your face. Cuz a lot of people do
14:58all of those things and then they still
15:00go on holiday and try and get a like
15:01deep mahogany tan. That is a no in my
15:03opinion, but we'll get to that later.
15:05The third part of this video is talking
15:07about trends. And I'm going to use PDRN
15:09as my main example here. Getting a
15:10little thirsty. Haven't even had any
15:12caffeine today. And I feel like I'm
15:14talking at the speed of light, but then
15:15I keep thinking to myself, I think
15:16people like that.
15:17>> I don't know if I'm going to get those
15:18comments where people are like, you
15:18speak too fast. But
15:19>> I feel like I see comments where people
15:20are like, you speak at the right speed.
15:22And I'm like, is this going to am I
15:23going to get compliments on that in this
15:24video? Look forward to that validation.
15:26Okay, let's lock in about PGRM. I think
15:28by watching this video, it will give you
15:30a framework to know that when stuff goes
15:32viral on social media, the chances of it
15:35being something that might replace your
15:37retinoid sunscreen as low acid, anything
15:40in the first part or the second part,
15:41the essentials or the nice to haves, the
15:43thing that the essentials and the nice
15:44to haves all have in common is that
15:45they've all been around for
15:47ages. And that is essential to have any
15:50kind of solid scientific backing. And
15:51that is exactly why EDRN is lacking
15:54because not enough time has passed and
15:56we don't have enough significant
15:57evidence to tell us that it rivals any
15:59of those things, retinoid, sunscreen,
16:01hydration, etc. at all. And I think you
16:03know this deep down, but the amount that
16:05you're getting bombarded with PDRN makes
16:07you question yourself every time. You're
16:09like,
16:09>> "Wait, but maybe I am missing out."
16:11>> Like maybe I should be using PDRN.
16:13>> You know, it says it's DNA. That sounds
16:15that sounds right, doesn't it? That
16:16sounds like it's going to do something.
16:18But let this video be your sign. PDRN is
16:20absolutely a nice to have, but it's like
16:22the second or third category of nice to
16:24have. Sorry if that makes it confusing.
16:26What do we know about PDRN?
16:27Fundamentally, we know that all of the
16:28evidence, and I looked into this
16:30yesterday cuz I wrote a Substack post
16:31about it. All of the most promising and
16:33significant evidence is about injected
16:35PDRN because the majority of skincare
16:38ingredients cannot get past the stratum
16:40corneium, which is the outermost layer
16:41of the skin, to get down into the
16:42dermis, where things change, where
16:44things happen. And that is why a lot of
16:46skincare doesn't seem to do a lot
16:47because it's too big to get where it
16:49needs to go. And that is exactly why the
16:51most promising and most significant
16:53evidence for PDRN is when it's injected
16:55into the site. And basically all of the
16:57evidence for topical PDRN when you just
16:59apply it to the surface of the skin is
17:01pretty weak. So if you've come to this
17:02video wondering what does the science
17:03say about PDRN, it really doesn't say
17:05that much. Especially if you're talking
17:07about topical serums which are proven to
17:10be too large to get down into the dermis
17:12to actually do the thing they're
17:13claiming to do. And a lot of those PDRN
17:15serums you see are riding on the back of
17:17studies that have studied injectable
17:19PBRN. So a completely different kind of
17:21PDRN. And yes, that is allowed in
17:23skincare. And that is why there is such
17:25a boom about it. Because anytime
17:26something new comes out, no matter how
17:28small the finding, skincare brands will
17:30grab hold of it and extrapolate it far
17:32beyond its original lane. And it's
17:34because the industry wouldn't benefit
17:36from just saying retinoid sunscreen
17:37hydration over and over and over again.
17:39People wouldn't listen. my experience
17:41working in marketing for 10 years and
17:42being a creative for four years, I've
17:44come to learn that a lot of people love
17:46to be given false hope. This sounds a
17:48bit mean, but like I've learned that
17:49this is why people go viral on the
17:51internet of giving solutions,
17:52skincare recommendations,
17:54Pinterest DIY at home masks
17:56because people get bored of the old
17:57solutions. It starts to blend into their
17:59brain and mean nothing. They don't want
18:00to use sunscreen cuz it breaks them out
18:02or they didn't get on with retinoids.
18:03So, they're like, "What next? What
18:04next?" A lot of people do not want to be
18:06told the truth that those are the things
18:07that are going to make the difference
18:08because they don't like those things.
18:09They want to know what's next and a lot
18:11of people like buying into hype and so
18:12the industry machine feeds us that and I
18:14really don't think it's actually that
18:15much deeper. That's why there's a new
18:16trending ingredient every single year.
18:18The difficulty from your end if you're
18:20just watching this on social media is
18:21knowing when is it when is it
18:23true? Azelleic acid has just apparently
18:25come out of the woodwork. And I will say
18:26that several people now have told me
18:28that I put it on the map. Um but you
18:30know, maybe it's true, maybe it's not. I
18:31think it's true. You could very well be
18:33thinking, "How do I know this isn't just
18:34I've only just heard of a
18:36acid. Can't even pronounce it. How do I
18:37know if it's true or not?" Well, it is
18:39hard for you to know. There's not any
18:40definitive way to know. The only thing I
18:42will say is after watching this video,
18:43hopefully you can come back to the core
18:46pillars of what science has already
18:47proven. Retinoid sunscreen. I feel like
18:49I need to keep saying that, but maybe
18:50you've got the message by now. Those
18:51things have been around for a long time.
18:53They've been studied for decades. A
18:54retinoid can be a medication. Azelleic
18:56acid. There's a prescription level
18:57medication for acid. The same cannot be
18:59said for PDRN because it's too early for
19:02them to have figured out how it works,
19:03how best to formulate with it, and how
19:05to make it into a medication cuz it's
19:06not going to be cuz it's not that
19:08powerful. And I might eat my words in
19:09like 5 years when they've proved that it
19:11is that powerful. But watch this space.
19:13I don't think I'm going to be wrong.
19:14It's a nice like cherry on top if you
19:16want a little bit of extra hydration.
19:18You've got your retinoids, your
19:19sunscreen, you've got your peptides.
19:21Realized I've gotten this far and I've
19:22not talked about peptides. Let me talk
19:23about peptides really quick. This can be
19:25a whole separate chapter. I'm
19:26formulating skincare products right now
19:28and I have done a lot of due diligence
19:29on peptides and the conclusion I've come
19:31to and I always said that this was my
19:33conclusion on peptides. They are a nice
19:35to have. I should have put them in the
19:36nice to have category. The thing is that
19:38not many peptides at all have good
19:40research and I'm talking like the gold
19:42standard randomized control trial. There
19:44are only two that I can identify that
19:45have actually proven their weight are
19:46giralene and matrixle. But I still put
19:48them in the nice to have category
19:49because they are not going to give you
19:51the same results as retinoids. So if
19:52you're going to pick between them, pick
19:54the retinoid. Get used to that for a
19:55year and add peptides in later. Don't be
19:57like, I don't want to use retinoids, so
19:59I'm using peptides. I know that the
20:01results you're going to get are nowhere
20:02near the same. A retinoid is just far
20:04more powerful than peptides. Peptides
20:05are great if you pick the right ones, if
20:07you stumble across a good formula, and
20:08you commit to them for years. But a
20:10retinoid within 6 months to a year can
20:12give you a whole new face. And the same
20:13cannot be said for peptides. The last
20:15thing I'm going to say on PDRN and
20:16trending ingredients in general is that
20:18I hope the takeaway from this video is
20:20that the things from those two parts
20:21before, like I said, you can't replace
20:23those things. You can't just have a new
20:25ingredient that came out two years ago,
20:265 years ago, even 10 if it doesn't have
20:29enough evidence. And to be honest, if
20:30that much time hasn't passed, like
20:32sunscreen, retinoids, we've got decades,
20:34we've got whole people's lifetimes, it's
20:36just highly, highly, highly unlikely
20:37that that new trending ingredient will
20:39really ever be able to do the same
20:41things as those gold standard things
20:43have. And I think two practical searches
20:45you could do to find out whether the
20:46ingredient that's trending is hype or
20:48has significant evidence behind it. I
20:50think you could search Google to just
20:51say prescription and then ingredient.
20:53Like for example, prescription PDRN,
20:55you're not going to find it. But if you
20:56came across a acid organically
20:58>> and you were like, I don't know if this
20:59is or not.
21:00>> You could Google prescription aelic acid
21:02and you would see that there is a
21:03prescription version of it, which means
21:04that collectively scientists and doctors
21:07have studied it for years and put it
21:08into a medication. I think that's a
21:10really valid test to do if you're ever
21:11not sure about an ingredient.
21:12prescription vitamin C, you're not going
21:14to find it. Okay, maybe it doesn't work
21:15in every scenario, but for anything new
21:17that we haven't heard of, try it. I
21:19think that's a good little trick. Moving
21:20on to the fourth chapter, I am going to
21:22give you three habits that I think are
21:24essential. There are many, many more
21:26habits and actually I did a podcast
21:28that's quite a big podcast that's coming
21:30out in November where I go into detail
21:32on like way more habits. I think there
21:33are at least five or six in that
21:35podcast, although it was a little while
21:36ago so I can't quite remember, but I've
21:37whittleled it down to three that will
21:39help prevent premature aging in your
21:41skin, also just in your body and in life
21:43that are incredibly sciencebacked that
21:44nobody can argue with. The first one, I
21:46know that this is going to bother some
21:48people and I know that it feels basic,
21:50but sometimes you need to be told the
21:51basics. Sleep. I don't feel like I need
21:53to tell you why sleep is important.
21:55We'll skim over the top. Your body
21:57repairs itself during sleep. Your brain
21:59refreshes itself. Things can heal during
22:01sleep. And if you're not getting enough
22:03of it and you're chronically depriving
22:04yourself of it, you're going to feel it
22:05in your energy, your skin's not going to
22:07be able to recover as much. Everything
22:09in your body is going to be running on
22:10empty. So, we know what that's going to
22:12do to how we feel and how we look.
22:13However, I am going to give you all of
22:15my steps that I take to have a good
22:17night's sleep, including things that
22:18I've bought, things that I've tried,
22:20supplements, and just like my general
22:22setup for a perfect night's sleep.
22:23Starting with number one, earplugs. I
22:25like buying Max Slim Fit earplugs. A lot
22:28of people try earplugs and they're like,
22:29"Oh, they don't fit my ears." is cuz you
22:31need the slim fit ones. You twist them
22:32and then when they're twisted, you put
22:34them in your ears and they expand. If
22:35you're just shoving them in your ears,
22:37you're using them wrong. A lot of people
22:38say to me, "Oh, I'm worried I won't hear
22:39my alarm." You will. You will hear your
22:41alarm. They take the edge off the sound.
22:43They don't completely mute everything
22:44around you. You can still hear stuff.
22:46It's just a bit muffled, but you will
22:47hear your alarm, assuming it's quite
22:49close to your bed. I used to not wear
22:50earplugs. And to be honest, I can sleep
22:52perfectly fine without them. But the
22:53moment I started using them, even though
22:54it's not noisy where I live, my room
22:56isn't loud at night. I don't need them
22:58to sleep. But oh my gosh, earplugs level
23:00up my sleep by like 10x. I sleep so well
23:03now that I have earplugs. And if you're
23:04one of those people who's like,
23:05>> "Don't feel like I need them."
23:06>> You're going to get way better sleep if
23:07you use them. Second thing, room needs
23:09to be cold. A lot of people don't
23:10realize this. They go into bed and
23:11they're like warm and cozy. You sleep
23:13better at a cooler temperature. So like
23:15crack open a window even if it's cold.
23:17Much better to be warm in your bed with
23:18cool air coming in. Third thing, and I'm
23:20not going to teach you to suck eggs. I
23:22know that you know if you're going to
23:23bed at 2:00 a.m. that's not good for
23:24you. We know that going to bed at the
23:25same time every night, waking up at the
23:27same time every day. We all know this
23:28information, so I'm not going to relay
23:30that to you because I know that you know
23:31that. It's up to you whether you do
23:32that. The third thing I will say,
23:34melatonin. Okay, I don't take melatonin
23:36every day because I actually think
23:37that's a bad habit and I don't need it
23:39to sleep, but if I know that I want to
23:41get a good night's sleep or for example,
23:42I want to sleep from like 9:30 p.m. or
23:45like 10:00 p.m. I normally go to bed
23:46around 11:00 p.m. It's hard for me to
23:48fall asleep naturally at 9:30 p.m.
23:50because I simply do not need that sleep.
23:52That's a lot earlier than I normally
23:53fall asleep. But if I want to just take
23:55half a melatonin and I will fall asleep
23:57in half an hour. And if you take
23:59melatonin strategically, you will
24:01improve your sleep significantly. I've
24:02also seen it recommended by a lot of
24:04fertility doctors because those
24:05fertility doctors, my favorite one, even
24:07though I'm not trying to have a baby,
24:08I'm just really interested in fertility
24:10because I'm interested in all topics of
24:11medicine. Natalie Crawford has a really
24:13amazing podcast and Instagram and
24:14YouTube. She talks about how melatonin
24:16is great for people who are struggling
24:18to get pregnant because sleep is such an
24:20integral part of fertility as a whole.
24:21That's all I'm going to say on sleep.
24:23Second thing, dairy. I know people are
24:25going to come for me about this, but I
24:26strongly believe that if you eat a lot
24:28of dairy and you struggle with acne and
24:30you haven't tried significantly
24:31decreasing your dairy, I'm not saying
24:33completely remove it, but significantly
24:35decreasing it, I think you are missing a
24:36trick. And I need to read this one out
24:38because there's a lot of numbers. I
24:39could get it wrong. I have not just
24:40pulled this out of my ass. I haven't
24:41just gone on Google to find this. All of
24:43these stats I have verified with people
24:45who work in research and were able to go
24:47through everything I've pulled out of
24:48research and verified that I have
24:50interpreted it correctly. a meta
24:51analysis was conducted which is
24:53basically where people who want to do a
24:54study look at all of the studies that
24:56was done before. So these scientists
24:58looked at 14 studies that had done
24:59before on roughly 80,000 participants
25:02across all of those 14 studies. And they
25:04found that regular dairy consumption
25:05correlated with about 25% higher rates
25:08of acne. This is obviously a
25:09correlation. It's not causation, but it
25:11doesn't mean that it can't be causation.
25:12It just means that right now we know it
25:14to be correlation. And fundamentally, a
25:16lot of dairy increases your insulin like
25:18growth factor 1, IGF-1, which causes you
25:20to produce more sebum, which causes you
25:22to have more acne. I've oversimplified
25:23that. But I personally believe and I
25:25notice when I have a lot of dairy, I
25:27will undoubtedly get big cystic spots on
25:29my chin. And these are the very spots
25:31people struggle with when they have
25:32hormonal acne. And it leads me to be a
25:34hard believer that high dairy diet can
25:36make hormonal acne significantly worse.
25:38Anecdotally, I've also had quite a lot
25:40of my friends go dairyf free because
25:42they've had a baby and the baby is
25:43lactose intolerant and then when they're
25:45breastfeeding, the baby is getting dairy
25:47via their milk supply and it's causing
25:48the baby to flare up, so they have to
25:50cut out dairy. The amount of friends
25:51I've had who've told me their skin has
25:53improved because they had to cut out
25:54dairy. It's kind of well, it's like two
25:56or three, but that's a lot considering
25:57I'm only one person. And me personally,
26:00I eat dairy on a monthly basis. I just
26:02don't eat it on a daily basis. And
26:04that's the difference for me. When I go
26:05to a restaurant, I'll eat dairy. I won't
26:07even think twice about it. But on a
26:08daily basis in what I buy from the
26:10supermarket, I don't. And that is how I
26:11keep my skin under control. And it means
26:13that when I want to eat dairy, it's not
26:15going to flare me up because my baseline
26:17of inflammation and IGF-1 is low because
26:20I don't have it on a daily basis. A meal
26:22at the weekend isn't going to do
26:23anything. But if I was having it in
26:24multiple meals a day throughout the
26:26week, that baseline would already be
26:27high. I'd already be near the tipping
26:29point. And I think that's what people
26:30don't understand about the relationship
26:32between dairy and acne. And the third
26:34habit is staying out of the sun. And I
26:36know people are going to hate that.
26:37There's so many people online who are
26:38like, "The sun gives us life." And don't
26:39get me wrong, like on a hippie- dippy
26:41level, I agree. The sun does make us
26:43feel alive in a nice way, and that's
26:45fine. And I don't think you should be
26:46wearing a beekeeper outfit or tons of UV
26:49clothing. But I do think that if you
26:50care for your skin to age well, which if
26:53you're watching this video, undoubtedly
26:54you do care about that. You shouldn't be
26:56going on holiday trying to get tan. Me
26:57personally, I go on holiday and I'll sit
26:59under the umbrella on the sun lounger.
27:01My face will get sun from being on
27:03holiday, but I'm never trying to tan my
27:05face. And if I go to a restaurant, I
27:07will volunteer to have my back facing
27:08the sun so that my face can be facing
27:10away. And look, obviously, if you want
27:12to still do that, you can. But it is a
27:14direct contradiction between what you're
27:15doing for your skin and the outcomes
27:17you're hoping to achieve. And I mean, I
27:18guess life is all about balance, but if
27:20you're repeatedly getting a deep dark
27:21tan on your face because you are putting
27:23your face in the sun for hours at a
27:25time, even if you're wearing sunscreen,
27:26even if you're using a retinoid, you're
27:28not just going to get away with that. A
27:29tan is still fundamentally sun damage
27:31and that is literally the bottom line
27:32and there are no exceptions. A lot of
27:34people spend a lot of time looking for
27:35exceptions and justifications. A tan is
27:37sun damage. That really is it. And the
27:39fifth part of this video is what is the
27:40max that skincare can do. And I want to
27:42give you two key examples. And before I
27:44give you those examples, sorry, I just
27:46want to say all of the best practice
27:48that I've talked about up until now. So
27:49all of the skincare, the retinoid, the
27:51sunscreen in the essential category and
27:53the nice to have category. They are
27:54important, but you're not going to see
27:55the full results of those things unless
27:57you've been doing them for a few years.
27:59Even 6 months is not a long time. I
28:00talked about this in the last video. A
28:02lot of people are like,
28:02>> "I've been doing this for 2 months now
28:04and I don't see a result."
28:05>> That's because your skin doesn't care.
28:06Your skin doesn't care that it's been 2
28:08months. It's not a long time. Some of
28:09you are 22 and looking to age backwards.
28:11And I'm sorry to tell you, you're not
28:12going to. At the age of 22, you're doing
28:14something that's preventative. You're
28:15not going to be like,
28:16>> "Wa, I look 16."
28:17>> It's not going to happen. The difference
28:18between you and a 16-year-old is the
28:20face shape and the fat distribution. And
28:22you're not going to get any of that
28:23back. So, let me just bring you back
28:24down to earth for a second. I'm going to
28:26have to like bring you down to earth for
28:27a sec. There is no way you're getting
28:28tickets for that show. But I love your
28:30enthusiasm. Anyway, all of those things
28:32matter. You have to lock in, accept that
28:34the science doesn't lie, and just carry
28:35on with it for your whole life to be
28:37able to see these results. I think
28:38that's such a major point. People
28:40watching this video are like, I want to
28:41prevent premature aging. And it's like,
28:43okay, well, you realize that like 10
28:44years is your window of results, right?
28:46because you think the premature aging
28:48you're going to see in the next year can
28:49be reversed. But that's such a small
28:51time frame that you do just have to lock
28:53in accept that you are doing everything
28:54that's sciencebacked and then just give
28:56it time to work and let time pass like a
28:585 years a decade pass. Then we have the
29:00two examples. The first one is Botox for
29:03fine lines. I get a lot of people
29:04tagging me in videos and I'll put the
29:06most popular ones here. When you have
29:08fine lines or wrinkles that are static,
29:10meaning when you're not doing anything
29:12with your face, you have lines on your
29:14forehead and it doesn't matter what you
29:15do, they feel like they're cemented in.
29:17Whilst a retinoid hydration sunscreen
29:19can absolutely make that look better,
29:21most of the time if you've had that line
29:22for like a year, 2 years, 3 years,
29:25you're probably not going to get rid of
29:26it without Botox. And the reason why is
29:28if you think of a pair of linen
29:30trousers, you know when you like steam
29:31or iron linen trousers and then you sit
29:33down and they're immediately creased and
29:35there's nothing you can do about that
29:36until you steam them again. The reason
29:38they're creased and the reason your face
29:39is essentially creased and sorry, I know
29:41that sounds rude is because you move
29:43your face. So people who have lines like
29:44this, if I permanently was doing that,
29:47those lines would become permanent. But
29:49you'll notice I am quite flat and that's
29:51not intentional. That's one of the
29:52symptoms of autism that was most picked
29:54up on by everyone on the internet. But
29:55if you're repeatedly reinforcing those
29:57lines, the only way to get rid of those
29:59lines, even if skincare can improve them
30:01slightly, is to stop reinforcing the
30:03lines, which is why Botox works and why
30:06sometimes Botox is the only answer
30:07because Botox paralyzes the muscles. So
30:09you go from doing this every day to
30:11being like this every day. And then
30:12those lines, they have time to undo. And
30:15that's how people get smooth Botox
30:17foreheads because they're not
30:18reinforcing those lines every day. Even
30:20if your skincare is doing the most, if
30:22you're reinforcing those lines every
30:23day, that is the perfect example of
30:25where Botox comes in if you want to get
30:27Botox, if it's something that you care
30:28about, because there's really nothing
30:29that can rival Botox. And people are
30:31always like,
30:32>> I feel like I should get Botox.
30:33>> There's a lot of social pressure to
30:34Botox these days. But a lot of those
30:36people solve their issues with enough
30:38hydration. Going back to part one where
30:40I talked about essentials, your skin's
30:41not going to look that good if it's
30:42chronically dehydrated. And a lot of
30:44people who think that Botox is their
30:45only answer, they actually just have
30:47chronically dehydrated skin. So, that's
30:48one example of the limitations of
30:50skincare. You can have the perfect
30:51routine, but if you're just chronically
30:53making the same facial expression, which
30:55by the way, facial expressions are
30:56normal, but if it's bothering you, and
30:57it might be cuz you're watching this
30:58part of the video, sometimes the only
31:00thing you can do is see if your skincare
31:02routine if you improve it and give it 6
31:04months, will those lines improve? And if
31:06not, it probably is a Botox thing. The
31:08second thing that skincare cannot do,
31:09and to be honest, no aesthetics can do,
31:11not even injectables. The only thing
31:13that can treat this is a facelift, is
31:15lifting. It makes me so mad when I see
31:17skincare products. And I know that Kodi
31:19Resveratrol, they went hard on this. And
31:20I don't really know how. I'm sure it's
31:22against the advertising guidelines.
31:23Anything that ever says lift is a lie.
31:25You're never going to apply a cream to
31:27your face and lift your face. It's just
31:28never going to happen. You're not going
31:30to inject something into your face and
31:32your face suddenly be like, it's just
31:33not going to happen. The only thing
31:35that's going to do that, especially if
31:36you're in your late 20s, 30s, 40s, when
31:38the reason you're having sagging, the
31:39reason you want this lift is because
31:41gravity is just pulling our faces down
31:43day by day by day. and no skincare cream
31:45is ever going to do anything about that.
31:46So, that is the end of this part.
31:48Obviously, ask me any other questions in
31:49the comments about the limitations of
31:51skincare, but I think I've covered the
31:52two most common ones. And then I've made
31:54a checklist that you can take away. I
31:56have written it down because it's a
31:57list. I need to like read from it and I
31:58hope that's okay. Skincare
32:00non-negotiables. These are
32:01non-negotiables as the title suggests.
32:03Retinoid used consistently. So many
32:06people use a retinoid like once a week.
32:07I used to do this before I knew better
32:09in like 2018. I used to be like, "Oh,
32:11might buy a retinoid from The Ordinary.
32:13I'm going to use it once a week. It's
32:14not really doing anything until I
32:16understood how retinoids work. They have
32:18a minimum dose. You want to build up to
32:20it slowly. And if you want to know how
32:21to do that, I made a free retinoid guide
32:23that you can download. As the title
32:24suggests, it's free. But as you work
32:26your way up, you might use it once a
32:27week, then twice a week, then three
32:28times a week. I don't think if you've
32:30adjusted to the retinoid, you should be
32:32using it any less than three times a
32:34week minimum. I use it every other day,
32:35which equals roughly three to four times
32:37a week. And this is really important
32:39because active ingredients have
32:40recommended doses. The retinoid needs to
32:42be used enough to give you results. If
32:44you're just using it like once a week or
32:45even twice a week, I just don't think
32:47it's enough. So, retinoid with a caveat
32:49about frequency. Two, sunscreen doesn't
32:51matter about the weather. Delete your UV
32:53app. I don't care. Use it every
32:54day. Third, hydration in layers. One
32:56moisturizer isn't enough for peak
32:58results. Mist, serum, moisturizer,
33:01sunscreen. At minimum, serum,
33:03moisturizer, sunscreen. Third thing on
33:04the checklist, one additional active
33:06based on your specific goal. That could
33:08be vitamin C or aelic acid depending on
33:10which one resonated with you in that
33:12section. If you want my exact skincare
33:14routine, again, I've made that
33:15downloadable. I also have a YouTube
33:17video for my morning routine and a
33:18YouTube video for my nighttime routine.
33:20But if you just want it written down,
33:21it's in this free downloadable one pager
33:23that anyone can have access to. The
33:25habits part of the checklist. Protect
33:26your sleep. Make your sleep better. Get
33:28earplugs. Experiment. If you're against
33:29earplugs and you never tried them, just
33:31give it a go and tell me I was wrong. Oh
33:32my god, I've realized I've forgotten one
33:34habits thing. I forgot to mention sugar.
33:36I'm just going to get straight to the
33:37point. High sugar diets cause cell
33:39glycation which can make you age faster.
33:41That is an oversimplification. Probably
33:42a scientist is going to come for me. But
33:44at the end of the day, sugar is making
33:45you age faster. Even if not just on a
33:48cosmetic level, but on a physical bodily
33:50level, it is proven high amounts of
33:52sugar on a daily basis incredibly bad
33:54for aging, cell health, and skin health.
33:56There is no argument on that. A lot of
33:57people don't realize that you could
33:58literally look older because you have a
34:00high sugar diet. So, I would keep your
34:02sugar in check. It doesn't mean that you
34:03need to stop having fruit. That would be
34:04crazy. But if you do eat a lot of added
34:06sugar every day, you probably already
34:07know that's not doing you any favors.
34:09Same with dairy. Some people are fine
34:11with dairy. Some people are convinced it
34:12doesn't affect them. But if you've never
34:14heard of it before and you struggle with
34:15hormonal acne, I really think it's worth
34:17giving a go. And the last part of the
34:18checklist, how to know when you can't do
34:21any more with skincare and to achieve
34:23the result you want to achieve, you have
34:24to do a treatment like Botox. The first
34:26part of the checklist, do everything
34:28I've said about the skincare essentials.
34:29Add all of those things in. Focus on the
34:31hydration for 6 months and see if you
34:33still want the Botox afterwards. Second
34:35part of the checklist, look at your
34:37skincare routine and lay out how many of
34:39those things in your routine are based
34:40on trends or based on the science that
34:42we've discussed in this video. If a lot
34:44of your products have just come from Tik
34:45Tok shop or you bought them because of
34:47FOMO and social media, that is a sign
34:49you're probably not working towards the
34:50results you want to work towards that
34:51we've discussed in this video, probably
34:53a sign that you give a bit too much
34:55weight to social media and not enough
34:56weight to sciencebacked ingredients that
34:58will get you the outcomes you want to
34:59achieve. And if you've done all of that
35:01and you're like, I just want to get
35:03Botox. I honestly don't blame you. I'm
35:05not here to tell you that you failed
35:07because you got Botox. I don't think
35:09getting Botox is that awful. I will get
35:11Botox because I firstly I'm curious
35:13about it. I feel like I'm a skincare
35:15creator. Like I want to experience it. I
35:17like to experience a lot of the things
35:18that I talk about, but I'm just not
35:20there yet because I am so monotone and
35:22flat. And I don't do that on purpose.
35:23That is just how I speak. I think
35:25actually my forehead muscles are kind of
35:27incredibly weak and small because
35:28otherwise I would be able to do that
35:30more. But they are there. Look like it
35:33is there. That's the only reason I
35:34haven't done it yet cuz it's just not
35:35something that I think I personally need
35:38yet. But if you're covering all the
35:39bases, you're doing a really good job.
35:41Don't beat yourself up for getting
35:42Botox. Like we live in a society where
35:44everyone is peer pressuring you to do
35:45it. The least I can do is help you make
35:46an informed choice about whether it's
35:48the right thing for you given everything
35:50we've just gone through. I'm not sure
35:51what video I'm going to do next, but if
35:53you do want to know how to combine
35:54azelleic acid and arenoid to the nth
35:57degree and not have to watch any other
35:58video on it afterwards, my previous
36:00video that I uploaded before this is the
36:02one for you. And if you want me to cover
36:03any other topics, just let me know in
36:05the comments.

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