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The only iRacing setup guide you will need [beginner to advanced] — Transcript

by Yuri Kasdorp · 5,895 words · 829 segments · language en · Watch on YouTube

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0:01Hello everyone. This is Yuri Klickt off
0:03and today we're going to be clicking on
0:05the setup and this will be a setup guide
0:08updated for middle of 2026. So we're
0:11about to go into 2026 season 3 in
0:13iRacing. I'll aim to do the setup guide
0:15for everyone starting from beginner just
0:18wanted to see get into it where to start
0:20first. So we'll start the video there
0:22and then more and more towards the end
0:24of the video we go more and more
0:25in-depth towards a bit more advanced
0:28things setting up the car. A bit more
0:30niche things. If you want to learn, make
0:32sure to stick through the video at least
0:35hear it once, but we'll start out with
0:37the easier things where to start first
0:39usually and we'll try to go over the
0:41meta. What do I mean with the meta? Is
0:44that on a lot of these clicks on the
0:46setup, there's one or a small range that
0:50actually works and everything out of it
0:52just doesn't make sense to do it. So
0:54once you know the meta, you save at
0:56least 50% of just clicking because you
0:59know which ones will work already, which
1:01ones don't. So when we start out, when
1:03you load the setup, I'm on Spa now with
1:05the Ford gives us a lot of different
1:07things. I'll show you as well some
1:08driving examples of what different
1:10things to but we start out. I loaded the
1:12medium downforce sprint. If you can see,
1:15we're on the tire page. These pressures,
1:17they always need to be minimum. I've
1:19heard a couple times that you maybe want
1:21to balance these out so that the hot
1:22pressures so once the tires are up to
1:24temperature are similar from left to
1:26right and in real life that would make
1:28sense. The thing is that this minimum
1:30limit is already too high for the buy
1:33model in iRacing that anything you go
1:35over just takes away grip. Maybe you
1:37want to run them ideally at
1:39let's say 170 hot. With this you end up
1:42at 185, 190 hot. So if you then adjust
1:45them to be the same, then you're just
1:47going to be higher than what they need
1:48to be. So these never touch this. Never.
1:52Not even wet, dry, anything. Don't even
1:55think about it. Leave it.
1:57You have these two things, but this is
2:00arrow balance calculator. These numbers
2:02you can change to whatever you want. You
2:04can calculate roughly how much front
2:06downforce you have. These don't actually
2:08change anything. This is just
2:09calculator. The rear wing angle on this
2:11does change in the setup. So, you can
2:13change it here or you can change it down
2:15here. As you can see, if I change it in
2:17the calculator, it actually changes it
2:19in the setup, too.
2:21The first two, they don't do anything.
2:23And I don't really like this calculator
2:25because you might look at this and think
2:28these ride heights correspond with these
2:31ride heights, but they don't cuz this is
2:33when you're driving on the track
2:35and this is when the car is just
2:36standing in the pits without any pit
2:38forces on it.
2:39So, it's actually on the ground and
2:41simulated how the car will stand on the
2:42ground, but once you get more downforce
2:45or bumps, the car compresses more to the
2:47ground and this is when this gets more
2:49active. And you actually need some data
2:51to
2:52find these out. I just find that the car
2:55moves around so much front to back, left
2:57to rear, over bumps and everything that
2:59it's very hard to see exactly how much
3:02you're on. So, just to give a general
3:03idea, this might be good, but once you
3:05get used to how much rake the setup
3:07wants to have, you don't really use
3:09these. Then, we go to the chassis. When
3:11you have a setup, especially if you have
3:13a setup from a setup shop,
3:15I should mark CDA or in the uh
3:18description below if you want to see
3:20what setup shop I work for.
3:23Yes, all of these are optimized for the
3:26track that you're running, but there's a
3:28certain element of driver preference and
3:31there's also a certain element of that
3:33are made to be inclusive for most of the
3:36people. So, on a scale of iRacing setups
3:38completely understeery, on eSports
3:41setups completely oversteery, they're
3:43made somewhere in the middle.
3:44Some are closer to eSports, some are
3:46closer to understeery, they're made
3:48somewhere in the middle. That means that
3:49you can still adjust them to your liking
3:51and to the level that you have. And
3:54where do we start adjusting them? The
3:55easiest thing to do is to click on the
3:59front wing. And you might say there is
4:01no front wing. That is right. There's
4:03only rear wing. But we can adjust how
4:05much downforce is split to the front and
4:07rear by the rake in the car. And what
4:09does the rake mean? That's the
4:11difference between the front and the
4:13rear ride height. So the front ride
4:15height says here on left and right. We
4:17actually want to look at the splitter.
4:19How high the splitter is from the
4:20ground. And this is on most cars you're
4:22limited by this. On some cars you're
4:24actually limited by the front ride
4:27height and the splitter won't be
4:28completely on the ground. You'll also
4:29see that if I adjust the rear springs
4:32down, the splitter goes up because the
4:34car goes from being like this or center
4:36gap
4:37center of
4:38mass to if I move the rear down, the
4:41front comes up.
4:42The more I move the front
4:45the rear down,
4:47the more the front comes up as you can
4:48see.
4:50And
4:51the front
4:52almost any case, there's a couple
4:55exceptions, but almost any case you want
4:57this to be on the minimum. So you want
4:58to be either limited on 50.0 on these or
5:02on this, whatever comes first. And on
5:04the rear you can actually adjust the
5:06front wing. And basically the higher up
5:08you go, the more front downforce you
5:10have, the less rear downforce you have.
5:12It switch the balance around. And you
5:14want to change this for the high speed
5:16car behavior. Low speed, the first thing
5:18you want to look at is the ARBs. Front
5:21ARB and rear ARB. And you want to adjust
5:25these comparatively to each other. If
5:28you're loading a setup from a setup
5:29shop, you can assume that they're set on
5:31a certain value that's fairly optimized.
5:34For example, instead of having them at 1
5:361, you can also have them at 5 5. The
5:38difference between these will give you
5:40the balance specifically in low speed.
5:44If you have more front on the ground by
5:46compared to rear, you got more
5:48understeer. You have more rear anti-roll
5:50bar compared to front, you get more
5:52oversteer. You can add more grip to
5:54certain side of the car, and then you
5:56have the high speed,
5:58which is the rake. Make sure also if you
6:00adjust the rake,
6:02or go up a couple clicks, double 50. If
6:05I'm going above this,
6:07the front will become too low. What I am
6:09doing is going up one click on the
6:11front, and then going up again until
6:14they're 50, and they can't go any lower.
6:18And then because iRacing wants to be
6:20annoying and wants to pretend like they
6:22are adjusting an actual car,
6:24adjusting these here on the right side,
6:26it also adjust the geometry on the rear,
6:28so it also adjust the rear toe in and
6:30the rear camber. We have to press this
6:32down again, click apply, see how much it
6:34adjust the toe in, toe in is back to
6:361.5. Right.
6:39We have the front downforce or the
6:42downforce split
6:43front to rear. It's for high speed, the
6:46low speed ARB, and you want to have the
6:49middle, so the medium speed kind of
6:51balanced. If you're adjusting the high
6:53speed, you get a lot more oversteer high
6:55speed, and the medium speed becomes
6:57unbalanced. You can also adjust it a bit
6:59with the ARBs again.
7:01Those are the main things. So let's go
7:03over now what things and what ranges on
7:06the other things I would like to look
7:08at. And of course these will depend by
7:10car. In general, if you have the Ford,
7:13if you have a track that's very very
7:14high speed, it don't like high
7:17ARBs. It likes the ARBs close to each
7:20other, maybe the front and the rear the
7:23same, if not the rear a bit higher.
7:25Again, this is Ford specific, this will
7:26change for most cars. In general, the
7:29trend I've seen over most cars, mostly
7:32the GT3 cars this is over the last
7:33couple seasons, that you want quite high
7:36ARBs. That changes if you have a lot of
7:38low speed. Low speed you want lower
7:40ARBs, high speed you want higher ARBs.
7:43If there's a lot of low-speed corners
7:44around the track, you want a bit lower.
7:46High-speed corners, you want a bit
7:47higher. Then, we get to one thing that
7:50we absolutely never change. Uh if you
7:52saw my last video, you'll know, the rear
7:54toe in.
7:56Ideally, we want it around zero. We are
7:58locked at 1.5. So, we always want to be
8:01at 1.5 because we're so far above where
8:03we actually want to be. Anything higher
8:05is just pulling. The same thing goes for
8:07the front camber. I can't think of the
8:10last time that I've seen any setup that
8:11doesn't run maximum front camber. Same
8:14goes for the front splitter. With those
8:16things, you already don't really have to
8:18worry about. Then, the springs. The
8:20springs are quite different on every
8:23single car. Again, there's not really a
8:25range that works on every car. In
8:28general, you want to be towards the
8:30lower end of the springs and the higher
8:32end of the ARBs. So, when we look at the
8:34springs, they go from 120 in this car to
8:37210.
8:39I would normally set this up with the
8:41front being between 135 and 165. If you
8:45go very low, the car becomes very like
8:48soft on the front, very slow to react,
8:51and also it starts to bottom out a bit.
8:53You go very high, you just start
8:55bouncing a bit over the curbs.
8:57What do we have next? The rear spring.
8:59As a rule of thumb, if you're lacking
9:01traction, you want the rear spring a bit
9:03lower than the front. If you are
9:05understeering, especially on power, you
9:08want the rear a bit higher than the
9:09front.
9:10You want them
9:12fairly close together, though. You don't
9:13want the front to be super low, the rear
9:16super stiff, and the other way around.
9:17There are some exceptions, like most of
9:19these things. In this, there are some
9:21exceptions. For the rest, let's just go
9:23from top to bottom. Now, I'll show you
9:25also some examples in between. Brake
9:28pressure, it's quite personal. You can
9:30adjust the brake pressure as well with
9:32the master cylinders and the brake pads.
9:35There's some confusion here. If you go
9:37with the brake pads, the high friction,
9:40you have more brake input for less
9:42you're actually pressing the pedal. Low
9:44friction the other way around, so you
9:45have to press the brake pedal harder. If
9:47you look at the cylinders, these are
9:48smaller changes. You can also change
9:50them separately from the front to the
9:51rear. The lower this number, the less
9:54you have to press the pedal. If you go
9:55very high on the cylinders
9:58and high friction, but this actually
10:00means you have to press the pedals less.
10:02There's more you're back in the middle
10:03somewhere. If you would go like this,
10:05then you arrive at the Aston Martin
10:07fixed setup where you slam the brake
10:09into the floor and you're at 100% brake
10:11and still not slowing down. And this is
10:13also the reason when you're going to a
10:15random streamer's stream and you see
10:17them with a different brake trace than
10:18yours. If you're not running the same
10:20brake configuration, it will have a very
10:22different effect on the car. So, there's
10:24a couple things you can do with this.
10:25For example, if you're locking the
10:27fronts a lot, you can go higher on the
10:29fronts, lower on the rear, and you'll
10:30see as well that automatically the brake
10:32pressure will adjust to the brake bias.
10:34From my experience, it doesn't just
10:35adjust one-to-one, so you have to test a
10:37bit if you're running different setups
10:39with the brake cylinders again. In
10:41general, I like keeping them just same
10:43front to rear and adjusting the brake
10:44bias a bit. Then, I like sticking with
10:47one most of the time. If I like the
10:49fixed setup and you're driving fixed and
10:50open, I like keeping this the same as
10:52fixed so that you're used to whatever
10:54braking you need to do in the fixed and
10:56the open as well.
10:57ABS in general is in the middle of dry.
11:00Some cars, like the Mercedes, have the
11:02ABS switched, so you see a higher ABS
11:05number. The higher ABS number, the less
11:06it uh kicks in. On most cars, the low
11:09number, the less it kicks in. You don't
11:10want to be completely on the lowest part
11:12of the range, but usually you don't want
11:14to be completely on the highest part of
11:15the range, either. And the range, if you
11:17look on the right, it's for the dry
11:18track range I'm talking about, not for
11:20the wet. I'll be honest, in the wet I
11:21don't have enough experience. I don't
11:23know if you go too high above. I don't
11:25usually drive much in the wet.
11:28Same goes for the TC. Cars that have the
11:30traction, you want to run in general
11:31less on the lower end of the range cuz
11:33they have less traction, you want to run
11:35a bit higher. Just to make sure that
11:36you're not spinning the tires too much,
11:38overheating the rears. Bottle shape, I
11:39don't do much with. Most of the time I
11:41just leave it to linear. I had one time
11:43when my spring broke in my throttle
11:45pedal where I adjusted this down to a
11:47wet setting or if you feel like you have
11:49to last a really long time before you're
11:51flat out, you can adjust this a bit, but
11:53I wouldn't recommend changing too much
11:55with this. Just a dash setting.
11:58And now we get to a very important
12:00setting and a setting that's not that
12:02easy to understand. And this is the bump
12:04rubber gap.
12:06And let's see. If we think about it,
12:09if this is your damper and this is the
12:12travel from here to here can compress.
12:15And this will be the range that your
12:17spring compresses and a bump rubber gap
12:21sets the range that you still have that
12:24the wheel so the damper can travel. If
12:27you have a bump rubber gap of zero, you
12:30have no suspension anymore. You're on
12:32the guard. If you have a bump rubber gap
12:34all the way open, you have all of this.
12:36And why would you want to limit this?
12:38That's for limiting the compression of
12:40the car and keeping the car within the
12:42range of the arrow window. What does
12:44that come down to? I will show you
12:46quickly an example on a rouge. But
12:48basically, if the front compresses too
12:50much, it can either bottom out or it can
12:52start snapping. So let's see what that
12:54comes down to. So now I'm on a very big
12:57bump rubber gap.
12:58You'll see that the car starts bottoming
13:00out when I'm going up the hill.
13:02So it stops turning
13:04somewhere in the compression.
13:10That's because the front starts getting
13:11too low, it starts bottoming out. Like
13:13in the front splitter on the ground.
13:17And just stops turning
13:19because the wheels are not getting
13:21compressed into the road anymore.
13:24And like from this angle, you can see
13:25quite well how the front here is getting
13:28compressed into the ground. There's
13:29sparks flying everywhere.
13:32And it just stops turning.
13:34And now if I adjust the front bump
13:37rubber a lot down, you'll see that we
13:38can stop it from happening. All right,
13:40let's see with more front bump rubber if
13:42we're still understeering or if the
13:43front grips up.
13:47All right.
13:49I would say the front definitely grips
13:51up more now.
13:52So, those can be some issues that you
13:54can fix with the front bump bump rubber.
13:56Yep. One thing to note is that if you go
14:00very low on the number, so you let the
14:02suspension travel very small amount, it
14:04bottoms out much quicker and you can
14:06lose also turning because the front
14:08doesn't go as low. And the lower the
14:09front goes, the more grip you have on
14:11the front. So, you have to be careful to
14:12find a balance on that. And the range on
14:14that very much depends on what car
14:17you're driving. So, if we would look at
14:19the the full setup,
14:21so the whole thing above 17, you will
14:25barely feel a difference on the front.
14:27And if you then go to the rear bump
14:28rubber gap, here it actually has much
14:30more travel. You want to have more rake
14:32as well. The range is bigger. Usually,
14:34if I make a setup and I don't want it to
14:36interfere at all, I just leave it at the
14:38highest, which it is here. But you can
14:39go down all the way to about 20 or
14:41something. And what you do for that is
14:44kind of similar. It's just that the rear
14:45doesn't bottom out as quickly because
14:47we're running it higher. In most cases,
14:49unless you're running very low
14:50downforce, you want to limit how much
14:52the car compresses under acceleration.
14:54And you can give it a bit more rotation
14:56on long corners. Just high speed that
14:57is. Rear camber, that's a bit different.
15:00In the front, you don't want to always
15:02go max. Sometimes in some cars, you want
15:04to go max, which is 3.5. In general, the
15:08most used range I would say in most cars
15:11that you see also from setup shops is
15:12between 2.7 and 3.0. And what does that
15:16do? The higher you go, the more grip you
15:19have high speed, the less traction you
15:21have, and the less top speed you have.
15:23So, on a track with only medium speed
15:25corners, you could go very high on the
15:27camber. If you have only start-stop, you
15:29can go very low on the camber. For
15:30example, a track like Daytona with a lot
15:32of long straights and acceleration
15:35zones, I'm normally always very low on
15:37the camber. I can be as low as maybe two
15:39or even lower than that. On a track like
15:41Mugello, I would go maximum on the
15:43cambers almost all the time. And we get
15:45to the rear wing, any track
15:49that has
15:51no long straight, a lot of corners wants
15:53to be max downforce. The tracks that
15:55have long straights usually want to be
15:57somewhere in the middle, and the tracks
15:59that have mostly straights want to be
16:02depending on the car, one or two clicks
16:05off minimum. Most cars, you don't even
16:08want to be on the minimum wing on
16:09Daytona. That's most cars. Some cars,
16:12like the Acura, the Porsche, you want to
16:14be on the minimum no matter what. Some
16:16cars, I think the BMW always wants to be
16:18one or two clicks higher. The Ferrari,
16:20you might always want to be one or two
16:21clicks higher. But, always is a strong
16:23word. Like, when we had the the Monza
16:25combined on the BMW, you want to be
16:27minimum wing, obviously. The range of
16:28that in this car means that between two
16:31and maximum wing What track do you want
16:33to be maximum wing? I would say anything
16:35with more corners compared to straight
16:37ratio than Fuji. Fuji both still kind of
16:40work, but we're starting to tend to go
16:43towards a bit more minimum wing. In some
16:45cars, I'm still running at maximum wing
16:46in Fuji. Anything above that, you want
16:48to be running maximum wing. How can you
16:51tell if you don't know? If the fixed
16:52setups are close to the open setups and
16:55the times, then you want to be on max
16:58wing. If the times start getting bigger
17:00because the fixed setup is always max
17:01wing you can tell that you don't want to
17:03be max wing. Back like Le Mans, where we
17:05are quite often, you usually want to be
17:07either two or three clicks off minimum.
17:10Back like Spa, tiny bit higher. Track
17:12like Road Atlanta, tiny bit higher.
17:14Track like Road America, closer Road
17:16Atlanta. Track like Fuji, closer maximum
17:18wing. Track like my Miami, maximum wing.
17:21Gear stack, usually you want to leave on
17:23the shortest that you're having out the
17:24most in the last gear. The exception to
17:26that rule is that if you just have to
17:29shift up to sixth in like small parts of
17:31the track or the end of the straight,
17:32you might want to go to Le Mans Daytona
17:34and just never use sixth gear. Depending
17:36on how you are on gears in the corner,
17:39sometimes after upshift many times just
17:41before the corner or just like you when
17:43you accelerate in the corner, you might
17:44want to go to the higher one or which
17:46one FIA unless you're running like
17:47Daytona where you max out on the sixth
17:49gear. But then we get to the friction
17:51and the diff preload and they kind of do
17:53the similar thing. Think of this like a
17:55multiplier of this. So, if I would run
17:594 100, it's the same as going two times
18:03up on this
18:04or 48 to
18:07850. Technically, if you read the
18:10description, that should be the same and
18:12it's kind of how it works, but some
18:13people, including me, are on the
18:15impression that it still feels a bit
18:16different for uh 100 and 850. So, you
18:20can play around with that. In general, I
18:23leave it at one friction plate that I
18:24like, which is normally either six or
18:26eight, and then adjust the preload from
18:27there. Some cars like higher preload,
18:30Porsche for example likes higher
18:31preload, and what does it do? The more
18:33preload you run, the more understeer you
18:35have off throttle, the more rotation,
18:37less traction you have on throttle. And
18:39on a track like Spa, you can use this,
18:42for example in Pouhon, to control the
18:44rotation of the car. So, let me load a
18:45setup that's kind of on edge and I'll
18:48show you the difference with the preload
18:49because it can make a huge difference.
18:51So, here we are with a setup very low on
18:53the preload and it will be very twitchy
18:55on entry.
18:57You see, I'm on cold tires.
19:00I'm going into the corner now.
19:02The rear wants to step out on entry.
19:06But if I make it through the first part,
19:08see if I can actually do that.
19:10Going a bit slower, if I can make it
19:12through the first part.
19:13Once I'm back on the power, I have a
19:16decent grip.
19:19But, this is on the low preload there on
19:21entry.
19:22Okay, once you step out on the brakes
19:24off the power,
19:27but once I'm on the power, it has decent
19:29grip again.
19:33And now, let's
19:34move the preload up a lot and see what
19:36happens to the setup then to the
19:37behavior in the corner.
19:39All right, that's test now. Now on
19:41higher preload,
19:43and you'll see that when I'm going into
19:45the corner, I have more rear grip. But,
19:48the moment I want to go back on power,
19:50I'll struggle more.
19:52This is more rotation once the car's on
19:54power,
19:56less rotation
19:57when it's not.
19:59You can use this to shift where you're
20:01struggling the most with the setup,
20:03especially on a track like Spa, where
20:05you have some corners like this where
20:07you need to be flat out on the exit. You
20:08can't go too high on the preload.
20:12You can't go too low, either, because
20:13you'll struggle a lot on entries.
20:16So, you can adjust it with that. All
20:17right, and now we're at the end of the
20:20chassis page. I'll be honest, this is
20:23usually where I stop. There's little bit
20:26to gain in the dampers. I usually don't
20:29bother unless I feel like there's
20:31something very wrong with it. But, let's
20:32have a look at the dampers. The way I
20:34like to explain the dampers is that
20:36you're controlling with the dampers the
20:39movements of front to rear, left to
20:41right of the car. First, for the slowest
20:45movements, I actually like to look at
20:46the spring rate. That depends like how
20:49the weight how much of the weight will
20:51go towards the front,
20:53and also a bit how fast it does that.
20:55But, mainly how much the weight goes to
20:57the front and rear, and specifically
20:59when you're braking, when you're coming
21:00off the brakes. You're running a very
21:02stiff front, the front is very hard to
21:04load up. It gets loaded quickly because
21:06it's stiff, but it's very hard to put a
21:08lot of weight on it because you can't
21:09have it move forward. Other way around,
21:11it takes a bit longer if you have a soft
21:13front, but once it's loaded, it's quite
21:14a lot. Then, how quickly you want to
21:16load it, you can adjust with the
21:18low-speed dampers. So, I want you to
21:21think, like I usually explain things,
21:23the car, two tires front, two tires
21:25rear, balance on the center of mass.
21:27When you're going on the power on
21:29throttle,
21:30the car goes to the back. When you're
21:31going on the brakes, car goes to the
21:33front. You want
21:35think too much about the left and right
21:36movement in the dampers. I like to think
21:38about front to rear, meaning that into
21:40the corners, on the brakes, coming off
21:42the brakes, think about what movement
21:44the car is doing, where you have a
21:46specific issue with the setup. For
21:47example, the car loads up the front too
21:49quickly, adjust the low-speed
21:52compression damping on the front. The
21:53car unloads the rear too quickly,
21:56Ferrari,
21:58you can make the rear low-speed rebound
22:01bit stiffer, that the rear unloads a bit
22:04slower. When you're coming off the
22:05brakes, the front comes up too quickly,
22:07adjust the front rebound. You can do
22:09this on the exit as well. When you start
22:11going on throttle, car does this.
22:13Playing around with this, it needs to
22:15give you like a feeling of what you
22:17change in the car and what you actually
22:18feel on the wheel to really be able to
22:21start changing these and know what
22:23problems to fix cuz I can tell you this
22:25like without you knowing how it will
22:27affect the car, but it's very hard to
22:30then feel something in the setup, feel a
22:32problem that you want to fix, and know
22:34that it's a damper that you want to fix
22:35with us. Car behavior, I only look at
22:37the low speed, then the high speed is
22:39curb behavior. So, if the car bounces
22:41too much or too little over curbs, you
22:43can try to adjust the high-speed
22:45compression rebound. Don't know if I
22:46need to mention it, but obviously,
22:48compression is when the spring goes in,
22:50damping is when the spring goes out.
22:52When the spring and the damper go in,
22:54compression. Spring and damper go out,
22:55rebound. And it's how fast you want to
22:58make that movement. More damping when
23:00the spring goes in makes it slower. Less
23:03damping makes it faster. How high
23:05overall do we want this? It depends on
23:07the car. Sometimes on some cars, the
23:10dampers are generally too stiff. You
23:11want them on the minimum. Some cars,
23:13they're generally too soft. You want
23:15them on the maximum. Some most cars, you
23:17want to be somewhere in the middle. How
23:18do you need to know where you need to
23:19be? Trust what the setup shops have
23:21done. If you start from there, trust
23:23what iRacing fixed setup has done if you
23:26don't have that luxury. And if you want
23:27to figure it out yourself, it's A test
23:30and B looking from the telemetry. Um if
23:33anyone's familiar with it, there's
23:35damper histograms where you can see how
23:37much percentage of the time the damper
23:39moves in a certain velocity and there's
23:41a certain overall shape that you want to
23:43see. If the damper histogram's too flat,
23:45it spends too much time going very fast
23:47up and down and the dampers overall are
23:49a bit too soft. If the damper
23:51histogram's too pointy, then the dampers
23:54are too fast. It doesn't move fast
23:56enough. Now your dampers are a bit too
23:57hard. You can probably find videos for
23:59that how it's supposed to work. I found
24:00it in iRacing. It works quite well with
24:02that. One big caveat I want to say with
24:04that is that you can change the numbers,
24:06create like the most perfect shape
24:08you've ever seen, but you can make the
24:10car handle like a pig while doing it.
24:11And the graph is to get the maximum out
24:14of the tires, but if it makes the car
24:15handle like a pig, then there's no
24:17reason for it. So what I usually want to
24:19do on the dampers is to make sure that
24:21my graph looks reasonably fine. It
24:22doesn't look too ugly. And then from
24:24there, I adjust it for the balance that
24:26I want on the movement up and down.
24:28Front toe as well, it affects one,
24:32technically, how much top speed you
24:34have.
24:35I
24:36uh
24:37from my experience in iRacing, I
24:39barely see any difference in the top
24:41speed at all. I wouldn't adjust this for
24:43more or less top speed. Two, the
24:45reaction that you have when turning. So
24:47if you're running a lot of toe in, uh
24:49normally you run a minimal, it's called
24:51negative value. It means that your tires
24:53are pointed out. The more your tires are
24:55pointed out, the longer it will take
24:58between you turning the wheel and the
25:00outside tire that's going to be loaded.
25:01So, in the right-hander,
25:03the outside tire will start getting
25:04loaded like this.
25:06The more outputs you are, the more it
25:08will take before the outside is actually
25:10straight and start turning to the right
25:12side. It can make the car feel a bit
25:14lazy if you're running this number quite
25:16high. I'll be honest, that's the theory.
25:19I don't really feel that difference. I
25:22can run this very high or very low. I
25:24don't feel the car being less reactive,
25:26let's put it that way. It can give you a
25:28bit more stability on the front if you
25:30have this high, meaning that the car has
25:33a bit less movement.
25:34It also doesn't do much, and then the
25:36main thing is that in the corner,
25:39because I think it's the Ackerman it's
25:41called, it's been a long time since I
25:42was at school, the inside tire needs to
25:45do tighter radius than the outside tire.
25:47That means that the inside tire needs to
25:49turn a bit more than the outside tire
25:51for it to have the same slip angle. And
25:52you want to have a similar slip angle
25:54left and right. That means that your
25:56tires pointed out to a certain degree to
25:59go through the corner. If you have it
26:01pointed out a lot,
26:03then slow speed corners will be a bit
26:05better if you have it pointed out a bit.
26:07And high speed corners will be a bit
26:09better. What is this doing theory? I
26:11found that running this high gives the
26:13car a bit more rotation low speed. You
26:15run this lower than you have this a bit
26:17less. I haven't really seen any major
26:20differences in how much this heats up
26:22the tires, stuff like that. So, what I
26:23use this for mostly is how much the car
26:26bites in the middle of the corner low
26:28speed. But it's very very small
26:30difference. It's not one of the first
26:31things I would change. That's the setup.
26:34Again, ARBs and the ride height are the
26:36most important to the car behavior.
26:39After that, the preload. After that, the
26:42springs. Well, the springs kind of go
26:44with the first, but I wouldn't change
26:45those. They're important for the car
26:47behavior. If you look at a setup and you
26:49look at the ARBs, the rear ride height,
26:51the spring setup, and the preload, you
26:53have 85% of the setup, I would say. The
26:56rest is fine-tuning. Also, the first
26:59things I would adjust ARBs and the rear
27:02ride height, then go to the preload,
27:03then maybe start changing the spring one
27:06click. If you want to get nerdy, start
27:08going to the dampers, but that's usually
27:10the last thing I do if I really go into
27:12depth into an event. For a reference,
27:15when talk back to 2024, it wasn't the
27:17most competitive special event, but the
27:21Fuji 8-hour special event, the setup
27:23that I made for that event, which we
27:25ended up winning, I sent to a friend of
27:28mine before the week started as a
27:29reference. Run these ride heights on
27:32these springs, run these ARBs with this
27:35preload, with the cambers fairly normal.
27:38I pretty much changed nothing the whole
27:40week from that, and we ended up winning
27:42the the special event. It doesn't give
27:44you much if you nail those basic things.
27:46Maybe 10th, 10th and 1/2.
27:49So, moments this is of course a bit
27:51more, but most of the time, having
27:52decent and nice balance give you the
27:54most.
27:55I hope you learned something. Shout out
27:58to the channel members and supporters as
28:00well. I got a couple of those now as
28:02well. Soon, there will be, hopefully, a
28:05channel sponsor. I'm getting wheels sent
28:07from Simagic. If I think they're nice,
28:10they're good quality, happy to promote
28:11them. They might become nice channel
28:13sponsor, and YouTube is kicking off. So,
28:15if you want to show some support, leave
28:17a nice comment, and click the subscribe.
28:19That would help me out a lot. And
28:21remember, if we get to 10K,
28:24I'll finally undust, get my password
28:27manager out, get the main account to
28:2910K, YouTube 10K, main account 10K.
28:32What's not to like? All right, thanks
28:33for the support, and see you guys next
28:35time for the next video. And if you want
28:37to see a particular video, let me know
28:39in the comments. One video that I will
28:41be working on is the next SimRacing 101,
28:44how how get back on the throttle. It's
28:46not that difficult, that's why it's
28:47taking a bit of a long time, but that's
28:49something I'm working on. If you want to
28:51see something else, let me know in the
28:52comments, and see you guys in the next
28:54video. Ciao, ciao.

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