The "Fake" Reason Luxury Watches Are Getting Cheaper — Transcript
Full transcript
- 0:00For the past 5 years, luxury watch
- 0:02brands have been pricing you and I out
- 0:04of the market. Suddenly, we're seeing
- 0:06this massive shift because a market is
- 0:09now struggling. Brands are now starting
- 0:11to quietly reduce their pricing, but
- 0:14they're hiding it in a really smart way.
- 0:17For example, take the new Panory Lumia
- 0:1942. It's significantly cheaper than
- 0:22previous models. Tannery claims this is
- 0:24simply because they've removed the
- 0:26sandwich dial. But let's be honest, a
- 0:28change in dial manufacturing doesn't
- 0:31equate to a price difference of
- 0:33thousands of dollars. So what I think is
- 0:35happening right now is that we're seeing
- 0:36an industry reset. We're actually seeing
- 0:38brands right now trying to reverse what
- 0:41they've been spending the past 3, four,
- 0:435 years doing, increasing their prices
- 0:46drastically. Brands are desperately
- 0:48trying desperately. Sounds a bit
- 0:49dramatic. They're trying to win back the
- 0:51buyers that they alienated by
- 0:53drastically increasing their prices.
- 0:55They're doing this by building budget
- 0:57versions of their iconic watches. And
- 1:00they're using fake excuses to protect
- 1:01their prestige. But what Panor and Omega
- 1:04are doing right now is just a band-aid.
- 1:05It's just a plaster because what Zenith
- 1:08have announced this week shows us how
- 1:10bad the luxury watch industry has
- 1:11become. I'll show you those numbers in a
- 1:13minute and and explain what Zenith have
- 1:14actually done and how I think that
- 1:16they're going in the wrong direction.
- 1:17But first, let's look at how brands are
- 1:19using a Trojan horse to secretly lower
- 1:22their prices. Now, I want to be clear,
- 1:24I'm all for this. Let's talk about
- 1:26Panerai and their 42mm Luminor. The
- 1:29prices of this new range range from
- 1:32$6,700 for the steel versions. And if
- 1:34you're going to go for DLC versions,
- 1:36that's around $7,700.
- 1:38Now, compared to the previous versions
- 1:40of 44 mm versions of these watches,
- 1:43that's a saving of a good couple of,000.
- 1:47That's a serious chunk of cash. So, how
- 1:49does a luxury brand like Paroy justify a
- 1:53price reduction without really admitting
- 1:56that the prices were bloated in the
- 1:58first place? They simply strip away one
- 2:01minor but beloved feature, but it
- 2:03doesn't make it a lesser quality watch,
- 2:06just a slightly different watch while
- 2:09still protecting the icons that they
- 2:11have in their catalog. In Panoro's case,
- 2:13they simply stripped away the sandwich
- 2:15dial that they're known for doing within
- 2:17the Luminor range and they've just used
- 2:19just a normal flat dial with printed
- 2:22markers on it. Now, moving forward, I
- 2:24think we're going to see a lot more of
- 2:25this happening within the watch industry
- 2:27and my background's music and and you
- 2:30saw it within the guitar world. Look at
- 2:32Gibson for example. You got the standard
- 2:34Lespool. You can go up the range to a
- 2:36custom Lespool or you can go down the
- 2:38range to a studio Lespool. Now, it's
- 2:40marketed as being the the same quality
- 2:43of product. It's just had
- 2:44specifications. It's had the fanciness
- 2:46stripped away. And this is exactly what
- 2:48I think the watch industry are going to
- 2:49be doing. Want to protect their current
- 2:51range, but at the same time getting
- 2:53back, winning back the customers that
- 2:56they've priced out. Specifications that
- 2:58I think brands will change will simply
- 3:00be removing bracelets and and putting
- 3:02watches on straps, which again, we've
- 3:03already started to see. I can imagine
- 3:05brands using solid casebacks as opposed
- 3:07to display casebacks and then reducing
- 3:09the finishing of the movement which
- 3:11doesn't matter because it's hidden away.
- 3:13I think the majority of brands will will
- 3:14simply do things like uh using a more in
- 3:17Paner's case I think brands will do what
- 3:19Paner have done and use a more simple
- 3:21manufacturing process for the dial
- 3:23rather than having surrounds for loom
- 3:25markers it will just be loom painted on
- 3:27the dial or rather having stepped dials
- 3:29or applied indices this stuff will start
- 3:31to be printed instead. This allows them
- 3:33to lower the entry point and capture the
- 3:35struggling middle market while giving a
- 3:38a plausible excuse for the reduce in
- 3:41price rather than them just simply
- 3:43saying, "Oh, we've now reduced the
- 3:45price." There's a reason. However much
- 3:47smoker mirrors is used for the actual
- 3:49reason. Now, this doesn't need to make
- 3:51sense. The excuses don't need to make
- 3:52sense. And and I don't care if they do
- 3:54or they don't. The outcome is still a
- 3:57positive outcome for us. I just want
- 3:59them to reduce their prices. I don't
- 4:01care what story they tell to get to that
- 4:02reduced price. I just want to reduce the
- 4:05prices. Now, it's not just Panory that's
- 4:07doing this activity. We've seen Omega do
- 4:10this and I did a video talking about
- 4:11Omega's new release of their Speed
- 4:13Master reduced range. This is the first
- 4:15time that Omega have used the reduced
- 4:17range, which has obviously been cheaper
- 4:19than the professional range. Naturally,
- 4:21this is the first time that they've done
- 4:23a true alternative to the Speed Master
- 4:26Professional, the Moon Watch. And it's
- 4:28interesting that this has been within
- 4:30the Swatch group. The Swatch Group have
- 4:32multiple brands at different places
- 4:34within the market. So if they needed to
- 4:36make a more affordable version of the
- 4:37Speed Master, they could have quite
- 4:39easily used Line to do that. So it's
- 4:41interesting that they've decided to do
- 4:42this within Omega themselves. Now the
- 4:45specification [laughter] difference
- 4:46between the Speed Master Reduce that
- 4:48looks like Speed Master Professional and
- 4:50the actual Speed Master Professional.
- 4:51The specification difference is massive.
- 4:53But the biggest difference between the
- 4:54two is the pricing. The Speed Master
- 4:57Professional is around $7,800
- 5:00whereas the Speed Master Reduced around
- 5:02$6,500.
- 5:03Now Omega doing a similar thing to to
- 5:05Panorai. They're just doing it in a
- 5:07different way, a different strategy. At
- 5:08least they're trying to do something to
- 5:10keep you as a customer. I feel like
- 5:12that's a better idea than what Zenith
- 5:14have done. The watch market in 2026 has
- 5:16gone through massive correction. the
- 5:18middle of the market, the brand selling
- 5:20between $5,000 to $10,000 watches. That
- 5:23that range has been squished massively
- 5:26simply because the middle classes are
- 5:28feeling it's very much a first world
- 5:30problem, but simply the middle classes
- 5:32are really feeling a financial pinch at
- 5:34the moment. The ultimate casualty of
- 5:36that has been Zenith and this month
- 5:38they've just announced that they're
- 5:40doing massive restructuring of their
- 5:42company, cutting up to 200 jobs. They've
- 5:44also announced that they're not going to
- 5:45be making watches for the next 2 years.
- 5:48Makes you question why. Well, their
- 5:50strategy is to leave this middle market
- 5:53and go for the high-end market. They're
- 5:55going to come back as a horology brand.
- 5:58Now, that tells me that the bosses at
- 6:00Zenith have realized that they they
- 6:02can't compete with the bloodbath that is
- 6:04the more affordable end of the watch
- 6:06market. They know they can't survive in
- 6:08the middle end. So, they're instead
- 6:11going to go for the top end. On one
- 6:13hand, it makes sense because that's
- 6:14where the money is. Ultimately, right
- 6:16now, you either need to be selling more
- 6:18accessible, affordable products to a lot
- 6:21of people or you need to be selling a
- 6:23handful of products to the proper rich.
- 6:26That middle point, that's where the
- 6:28struggle is at the moment. Zenith,
- 6:30they're going after the 1%. Now, I
- 6:32actually think Zenith have got this
- 6:34completely wrong. They're an iconic
- 6:35brand. They're a seriously important
- 6:37brand within the watch world, but that's
- 6:39only kind of known by watch geeks like
- 6:42you and I. Outside of that, I don't
- 6:45think people know what Zenith is, let
- 6:47alone why they're important. I feel like
- 6:49Zenith should be looking further down
- 6:51the market at the more accessible end of
- 6:52the market and creating something highly
- 6:55commercial and highly desirable. They
- 6:57have the watch designs behind them.
- 6:59They've got the watch legacy behind
- 7:01them. They've got the stories to tell.
- 7:03They just need to double down on that if
- 7:05they were to compete or or go down to
- 7:08the long gene tuda level just below
- 7:10Omega. I feel like they could kill it.
- 7:13Especially with those brands focusing on
- 7:15more vintage inspired models. That's
- 7:18what Zenith does. They've got the
- 7:19heritage. They've got the watch making
- 7:21behind them. They should just create
- 7:23more affordable versions. Take a leaf
- 7:25out of what Panerai are doing. They can
- 7:27actually do something similar to Chopar
- 7:28where you've got Chopar and then LU. You
- 7:30got Chopart as the normal brand and then
- 7:32you got LUC as the fancy stuff. You
- 7:35could have Zenith and then you could
- 7:36have GFJ. And I actually thought this is
- 7:39what Zenith were doing back at Watches
- 7:41and Wonders this year when they launched
- 7:43their GFJ watch. GFJ are the initials of
- 7:46the Zenith founder George Favako. But
- 7:49what do I know? I I just sell watch
- 7:51straps over at bargainjack.com. So if
- 7:53you like watch straps, then go check out
- 7:55our watch straps at barkandjack.com. Had
- 7:58to get it in there somehow. So, it's
- 7:59quite obvious that we are in the middle
- 8:00of this big industry reset. This this
- 8:03hype bubble has absolutely burst. For
- 8:06ages, we've been talking about how the
- 8:08industry isn't the same as what it was
- 8:10in in co when we saw this huge spike in
- 8:12sales. And we've got to the point where
- 8:15we're actually seeing brands take action
- 8:18to that reduction in sales or rather
- 8:20it's got to the point where brands need
- 8:22to take action. Now, it seems like
- 8:24there's three options of what brands are
- 8:26doing. either do what Panera are doing,
- 8:28reduce specifications, reduce pricing,
- 8:31or what Omega are doing, create an
- 8:32alternative to the Icon and reduce
- 8:34pricing, or what Zenith are doing, kind
- 8:37of close up shop and redirect to a
- 8:40different portion of the market. Now,
- 8:42I'm all for all of these options,
- 8:44frankly. I I just want watch prices to
- 8:46come down or for products to improve. My
- 8:49favorite option is actually what Panera
- 8:51are doing. Create some excuse
- 8:54just to reduce prices. I think that's
- 8:56fantastic. Let me know what you think in
- 8:58the comments down below. Have you been
- 8:59priced out of the brands that that you
- 9:01previously loved or previously
- 9:02collected? And do you support what these
- 9:05brands are doing? What are your thoughts
- 9:06on Zenith? If you like this video, hit
- 9:08the thumbs up button. If you like the
- 9:09style of this video, then hit subcribe
- 9:10button down there and that little bell
- 9:11icon so you get notifications when I
- 9:12drop a new video. If you're on
- 9:13Instagram, give me a follow at bark
- 9:14andjack. And uh check out watch straps
- 9:16and watch accessories over at
- 9:18barkandjack.com.
- 9:19That's it. Take care.
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