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Stop Wasting $$$ — Transcript

by Tyler | Dermatology PA-C · 649 words · 98 segments · language en · Watch on YouTube

Full transcript

  1. 0:00I'm a derm PA and I want you to stop
  2. 0:01wasting money on these products. If you
  3. 0:04are buying peptides or collagen skin
  4. 0:06care, but you don't have a retinoid in
  5. 0:08your routine, then you're spending your
  6. 0:09money in the wrong order. Retinoids are
  7. 0:11the most evidence-backed topical
  8. 0:13anti-aging ingredient that we have. In
  9. 0:15literature, it is all the way up here
  10. 0:16compared to other active ingredients you
  11. 0:18might use. Vitamin C is a close second
  12. 0:20and these two ingredients, retinoids and
  13. 0:22vitamin C, are the most evidence-backed
  14. 0:24ingredients in over-the-counter skin
  15. 0:26care that we have for anti-aging
  16. 0:27benefits. Now, peptides do have data
  17. 0:29behind it, but again, it's not the
  18. 0:31first-line option compared to these two.
  19. 0:33But, it's not to say that you can't use
  20. 0:34this as an additional or supplemental
  21. 0:36ingredient in your routine. Picking out
  22. 0:37a retinoid is the foundation and that
  23. 0:39includes over-the-counter retinol ending
  24. 0:41in OL, retinal ending in AL, and then
  25. 0:44prescription strength adapalene 0.1% you
  26. 0:46can get over-the-counter. Then, of
  27. 0:48course, you have your prescription
  28. 0:49topical retinoids like tretinoin,
  29. 0:50tazarotene, or any other ones that are
  30. 0:52prescribed for you. All of these
  31. 0:53products have one particular ingredient
  32. 0:55in common that a lot of people tend to
  33. 0:57avoid. And that's petrolatum, which
  34. 0:59you've probably heard is going to clog
  35. 1:00your pores. But, you are actually
  36. 1:02cutting out one of the most effective
  37. 1:03barrier-repairing ingredients we have in
  38. 1:05skin care. The pore-clogging fear around
  39. 1:07petrolatum comes from outdated rabbit
  40. 1:10ear testing that does not translate to
  41. 1:12human skin at all. Now, if you find that
  42. 1:14heavier textures or products feel like
  43. 1:16too much on your skin, that's totally
  44. 1:17okay and that just shows that skin care
  45. 1:19is going to be trial and error. Any
  46. 1:21product out there has the potential to
  47. 1:22clog your pores, so don't be scared to
  48. 1:24try petrolatum because of that fear. A
  49. 1:26sunscreen, a moisturizer, or another
  50. 1:28serum can absolutely clog your pores. If
  51. 1:30you apply tretinoin, retinal, retinol,
  52. 1:33and you're also using a topical benzoyl
  53. 1:35peroxide leave-on product at the same
  54. 1:37time, you're wasting both products.
  55. 1:40Benzoyl peroxide is an oxidizing agent,
  56. 1:42which means it's going to degrade those
  57. 1:44retinoids before they even get the
  58. 1:45chance to do their job. Adapalene is one
  59. 1:47of the exceptions because it's
  60. 1:48chemically stable, so it can be layered
  61. 1:50with a benzoyl peroxide leave-on product
  62. 1:52and that's why you actually see it in
  63. 1:53combinations of prescription medications
  64. 1:55like Epiduo or Epiduo Forte. But, for
  65. 1:57these retinoids in particular, you want
  66. 1:59to use benzoyl peroxide in a cleanser
  67. 2:01form. You apply your benzoyl peroxide
  68. 2:03cleanser, lather it in, let it sit, then
  69. 2:05rinse it off, dry your face completely,
  70. 2:06and go in with your retinoid. This way
  71. 2:08there is no interaction between the two
  72. 2:10of them, and you get the benefits of
  73. 2:11both. And finally, you don't need to buy
  74. 2:13a separate face moisturizer if you
  75. 2:15already have a good body moisturizer at
  76. 2:18home. The face versus body split is
  77. 2:20mostly related to marketing. You can
  78. 2:22find these same textures for face
  79. 2:23moisturizer in body moisturizer like a
  80. 2:25gel moisturizer, a lotion, or a cream.
  81. 2:27But body moisturizers overall tend to be
  82. 2:29a little bit richer and thicker because
  83. 2:31the skin on your body is drier. Your
  84. 2:33body's skin has much less sebum compared
  85. 2:35to your face, so it's going to need more
  86. 2:37occlusion to maintain hydration. So this
  87. 2:39would be good if you have more dry skin
  88. 2:41or maybe combination skin because your
  89. 2:42skin already needs more hydration, so a
  90. 2:44cream moisturizer can double up for your
  91. 2:46body and for your face. A lot of body
  92. 2:48moisturizers have fragrance in them, so
  93. 2:49you just want to be careful and check
  94. 2:50for that if you do want to use it on
  95. 2:52your face because they can be more
  96. 2:53irritating on your face. So now you
  97. 2:55won't be wasting any more money on these
  98. 2:57products.

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