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SKIN CARE THAT WORKS| Dermatologists explain what your skin needs ft. Dr. Priyanka Reddy Ep.12 — Transcript

by Dr. Aanchal MD · 17,956 words · 2,583 segments · language en · Watch on YouTube

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0:00The most controversial serum I would say
0:01is vitamin C. It's not meant for all. It
0:04can cause uneven skin tone, make you
0:05look darker. Because of marketing,
0:07vitamin C has been pushed so hard that
0:09people are made to believe that this is
0:10something you absolutely need. How much
0:12is too much? How do you titrate it? How
0:14do you tell them which what to use and
0:16what not to. So ninomide. Oh god, my
0:18favorite way to put it out is jack of
0:20all trades, master of none. And it can
0:22help with every concerns. Cleanser,
0:24especially being the first part of your
0:25skincare routine, is very important for
0:27you to choose wisely. Otherwise, it can
0:28just break your barrier and then nothing
0:30else will work. Well, what do you think?
0:31Does makeup actually exacerbate acne?
0:33>> Of course, it can if you're not using
0:34the right type of makeup. Kajel is the
0:36number one cause for acquired dark
0:38circles and premature aging under the
0:40eye. How to choose a moisturizer? How to
0:43choose a sunscreen according to your
0:44skin type?
0:44>> I would first start off by saying that
0:46another ingredient is retinol. How do
0:48you feel about retinol? My favorite is
0:50retinoids. Otherwise, it is the holy
0:52grail of our skin care especially for
0:54across age group. What do you think
0:56about topical glutathione?
0:58>> Aries, let's just skip this topic with
1:00three things you want everybody to know
1:01about skinare.
1:04>> Hi and welcome to decoding health. On
1:06this episode we have Dr. Priyanka Reddi.
1:09She's a dermatologist practicing in
1:11Bangalore. With her I have discussed
1:13about skincare activives and how to
1:15build a skincare routine. So if you are
1:17somebody looking to make a skincare
1:19routine, this podcast is going to be
1:21very helpful. It's like two friends
1:23chatting. It's not an interview style.
1:25So I have also given in a lot of inputs.
1:28So it's more of a discussion and I hope
1:30you enjoy it. Hi Dr. Priyanka, welcome
1:33to decoding health.
1:34>> Thank you Anchil. Thank you for having
1:35me. So today I just want to discuss
1:38about how to build a skincare routine.
1:39So my hope with this podcast is that
1:42towards the end people will know what
1:44cleanser to use, what moisturizer, what
1:47sunscreen to use, you know, so that they
1:48can build a basic skincare routine that
1:50will serve them a long time.
1:52>> Sure. So first whenever we talk about
1:54skincare routine we always start with
1:56skin type understanding your skin type.
1:58So let's tell everybody how to know the
1:59skin type.
2:00>> Well this one is easy. We don't require
2:02any DNA test. All we need is a mirror 30
2:06to 1 hour of p 30 minutes to 1 hour of
2:08patients and a little bit of
2:10self-awareness. Right. So um basically
2:13let's see how many skin types. So
2:15there's so many different skin types and
2:17subskin types but broadly we can
2:18classify them as dry skin, oily skin, a
2:21combination skin type and sensitive skin
2:23is not necessarily a skin type but it's
2:25a phase your skin is going through and
2:27also what's very important is that skin
2:29type is never constant. It keeps
2:30changing with time with age right? So
2:32the first thing you do is you wake up
2:34you start off on a clean slate wash your
2:36face with a gentle cleanser. If you have
2:39very oily skin you can also opt for a
2:40mild foaming cleanser. pat dry your skin
2:43and just let it be for 30 minutes to 1
2:45hour and then you see how your skin
2:47feels and looks. Both are very
2:50important, right? So now for example, if
2:52you have dry skin, you would tend to see
2:54that your skin is very pa parched. You
2:57feel like your skin is screaming for
2:58moisture, for hydration, and you can
3:00also feel some parts of your skin are a
3:02little flaky. So that's when we
3:04categorize a dry skin. But then when you
3:06see that you are looking like a glazed
3:08donut or to some parts of your face
3:10being slightly oily then we call it we
3:13categorize as an oily skin type. And
3:15then we have your T-zone some parts of
3:17your face that are shiny but the other
3:18parts are dry flaky and are screaming
3:20for hydration then it's a combination
3:22skin type. But if you feel absolutely
3:25nothing then you are the chosen one. You
3:27have absolutely normal skin. So your
3:30skin doesn't feel dry. It is not
3:32shining. It's just normal, right? But
3:35then you have a phase where your skin
3:37feels very irritated. There patches of
3:39redness and you feel itchy. There could
3:42also be burning sensations sometimes. So
3:45this is the category of sensitive skin.
3:47So yeah, broadly these are the skin
3:49types but like like we all know that
3:50there are so many subtypes in all of
3:52these but yeah
3:53>> so yes with weather it can change. Uh
3:56with the menstrual cycle also it can
3:58change. Sometimes you know people feel
4:00that just before they get menes the skin
4:01tends to get a little oily that's when
4:03they get a few eruptions. So it's always
4:05good to have a few products with you
4:08handy and when you're traveling it might
4:10be a little dryut on the flight it can
4:12be you know dry and little more
4:13reactive. So just keep a few products
4:16handy in order to suit every type. So
4:19that's what I also usually tell them
4:20that you know your summer skincare might
4:22be a little different from your winter
4:23skincare but yeah knowing your basic
4:25skin type like you said is very
4:26important and that's the best way to go
4:28about it
4:28>> especially in females we also give like
4:30you said you have to keep different set
4:32of products aside for that one week
4:34before and around your periods. So we
4:36always say especially for females um you
4:38not every uh women will feel changes in
4:40the skin around the periods but there
4:42are people who do feel a lot of changes
4:44especially around one week before the
4:46periods right so this is when we also
4:48give little lighter products to be used
4:50uh during this phase yeah
4:52>> yes so now we come to the basics so
4:54basically whenever we build a skincare
4:56product we need a cleanser a moisturizer
4:58and a sunscreen of course we can add in
5:01a serum we'll discuss that separately so
5:03in these three things I want you uh
5:05categorize what are the ingredients you
5:07look for for each particular skin type.
5:09>> Yeah. So when see cleanser is one of the
5:12most important step that can make or
5:14break your barrier. I mean every single
5:15product is that but cleanser specially
5:17being the first part of your skincare
5:18routine is very important for you to
5:20choose wisely otherwise it can just
5:22break your barrier and then nothing else
5:23will work well can damage uh the routine
5:26further right. So if you have very dry
5:28skin, I would say put your cleansing
5:29routine to as minimum as possible cuz
5:31your skin does not need so much of
5:33stripping away of the little natural
5:35oils that it has. Right? So if you have
5:36dry skin, first thing in the morning,
5:38especially in your AM routine, I would
5:40say skip your cleanser. You don't need
5:41just wash your face with water and
5:43you're good to go with your next steps.
5:45But if but for the evening or morning if
5:47you still feel it's a little um you just
5:49need cleansing maybe because your skin
5:50doesn't feel fresh then you can go with
5:52very extreme gentle cleanser um that is
5:55pH balance and you can opt for cleansers
5:57that have ceramides or hyaluronic acid
5:59that can cleanse your skin without
6:00stripping it of its natural oils and in
6:02fact add hydration to your skin. So
6:05that's for dry skin but if you have oily
6:07skin again if you have very oily skin
6:09then you can use the same foaming
6:11cleanser morning and evening. But if you
6:13have mild oily skin, morning what I
6:16recommend is you go with a gentle
6:17cleanser that again has ceramides or
6:19hyaluronic acid because you also need
6:21hydration and um um the barrier has to
6:25be like taken care of as well, right? So
6:27you need with um ceramides, hyaluronic
6:29acid, a mild gentle cleanser in the
6:30morning. In the evening, you opt for a
6:32foaming cleanser that has salicylic acid
6:34or lactic acid or glycolic acid
6:36depending on how dry or sensitive your
6:38skin is. Because when you have dry skin
6:40with concerns of pigmentation then we
6:42tend to look for a glycolic acid um you
6:45know face wash in the morning um and a
6:47salicylic acid face wash in the evening.
6:49Right? So basically these are the
6:50ingredients look for foaming cleanser
6:52that has slightly acidic pH is also okay
6:54if you have oily skin but a very neutral
6:56skin friendly pH if you have dry skin or
6:58sensitive skin also.
7:00>> Correct. Yes. So that's what we know a
7:02lot of people feel that morning time
7:04washing is the most important. No
7:05evening time face wash is the most
7:07important. So even I usually tell my dry
7:10skin patients to skip a cleanser in the
7:12morning. If the skin is very dry but
7:13evening you have to you have to wash
7:15your face. You have to clean your face
7:16from all the dirt that has collected on
7:18the skin all the makeup and the
7:20pollutant particles that are there on
7:21your skin. So that has to be removed
7:23>> and the oils that are
7:24>> Yeah. that have been produced. So since
7:26we're on the topic of cleanser also your
7:28preferred method of makeup removal what
7:29do you prefer to use?
7:31>> So it again depends on the type of
7:32makeup uh you know we wear. If if
7:34someone is wearing very lightweight
7:36makeup, then I would not recommend
7:38double cleansing on a day-to-day basis,
7:40but again, that's overkill. Um, I
7:42specifically don't double cleanse on
7:43most days. When we wear water resistant
7:46makeup or water resistant sunscreen and
7:48you wear those thick foundations for a
7:49party or a wedding, that is when you
7:51have to double cleanse and make sure
7:52every single particle of your makeup is
7:54thoroughly cleansed. If not, if everyday
7:57you're double cleansing, you are just
7:58over stripping your skin. That is what I
8:00believe in. Especially for people who
8:02have dry skin or sensitive skin. I would
8:04not recommend double cleansing. Just go
8:05with the right type of cleanser for your
8:07face in the evening. But occasionally
8:09you can maybe once in a fortnight you
8:11can choose to double cleanse. But if you
8:13are somebody in certain professions
8:14where you're applying a lot of thick
8:15makeup and foundation everyday then go
8:17with double cleanse.
8:18>> Correct. So I get a lot of questions
8:20about you know they are using water
8:21resistant sunscreen so should they
8:23double cleanse? So, see the last
8:25application of sunscreen would probably
8:26be at 3 or 4 p.m. latest by 5:00 p.m.
8:29and you're doing your night routine,
8:30let's say at 7 or 8 p.m.
8:32>> After 2 to 3 hours, I don't think
8:34there's that much of sunscreen that's
8:36left that is forming that thick a
8:37coating that you require to double
8:38cleanse. But yes, double cleansing I
8:40usually prefer for people who have oily
8:42skin, acne prone skin, who feel that
8:45immediately after washing their face
8:46also they still feel, you know, a little
8:48oily within an hour. And how I
8:50categorize this is if you have oily skin
8:53then go for micella water to remove
8:54makeup. If you have dry skin use
8:56cleansing balm. Cleansing balms are much
8:58easier to remove makeup. But for oily
9:01skin it does leave a little bit of a
9:02residue. It's very heavy. No matter what
9:04you do for any skin type I still prefer
9:06masella water just for the ease of
9:07taking care of it than over balms
9:09because when you apply a balm again the
9:11amount of cleanser you have to use after
9:13to take away the balm also is more.
9:15You're again you know you overkill. So I
9:18still prefer mistella water just because
9:19they're very easy to use and easy to
9:21take off also. Um so I for any skin type
9:24I would still prefer a mist but
9:25sometimes you know with see the thing
9:27with skincare is also it's very
9:28sensorial right it's also for some
9:30people it's indulgence it's sensorial
9:31the time they spend doing this routine
9:33is very therapeutic for individuals. So
9:36for people like me who have no patience
9:38cha we done but for people who want it
9:39to be a u you know like a relaxation
9:43activity then balms are nice. It's more
9:44aesthetical.
9:45>> Yeah, it feels really nice on the skin.
9:47I love a balm because I have very dry
9:48skin. So, I love using a cleansing balm,
9:50but I know it's not for everybody.
9:52>> It's not for everybody
9:52>> because especially if you have acne
9:54prone skin, then it's best to avoid
9:56cleansing balms. Also, you know, uh when
9:59we talk about makeup, um
10:01>> what do you think? Does makeup actually
10:03exacerbate acne?
10:04>> Of course, it can if you're not using
10:05the right type of makeup, if you're
10:07putting layers over layers, that's why I
10:09say most of the acne people just go with
10:11one BB cream. Do not apply layers. you
10:13first applying a primer and then you
10:15have a foundation and then you have a
10:16compact powder that's definitely a
10:18recipe to block your pores and cause
10:21acne. Okay. So if you are wanting to
10:23have makeup either because of your
10:25profession or just because you like it
10:26it's fine but stick to basic minimum on
10:28a day-to-day basis. Um do not apply
10:30kajel under your eye. That's a lot of
10:32like task to remove it and then it
10:33definitely causes premature aging to
10:35your under eyes causes more dark
10:36circles. So highlight your upper eyelids
10:38with a liquid liner on most days. Only
10:40when you have an event where you really
10:42want to like glam up, then is when you
10:44go with this kind of multi-step makeup,
10:46under eye cajel, all of that. And then
10:49definitely do double cleansing. But on a
10:51day-to-day basis, now you have wonderful
10:52BB creams that give you great coverage
10:54in a single step. Not everybody needs to
10:57use a compact. If you have really very
10:58oily skin or in a humid place where your
11:01makeup tends to get cakey is when you go
11:04with a compact. And whenever you want to
11:06reapply compact, you make sure you dab
11:07your skin, take away the excess oil, and
11:10then you do a compact. And the first
11:12thing you need to do as soon as you're
11:13done with the need of your makeup is to
11:15cleanse,
11:16>> right? Because makeup when left for a
11:18long period of time, number one, or when
11:20used in multiple layers, two, three,
11:22when your makeup brushes are not clean,
11:24are definitely going to trigger your
11:26acne, especially if you have oily, acne
11:28prone skin.
11:28>> So it is a double-edged sword. You know,
11:30people with acne tend to use more makeup
11:32in order to hide their acne. So they are
11:34the ones who feel that they need that
11:36makeup. But I feel yeah makeup per se
11:38does not cause acne as such if you use
11:40it the right way. If you're using very
11:42light water-based products nowadays
11:43there are such good foundations
11:44available in the market which are very
11:46very light thin. You can use that. You
11:48can even use a tinted sunscreen maybe
11:50you know that is a good um replacement
11:52for full face of makeup. But yes I do
11:54not recommend full coverage foundation
11:56for people with acne prone skin because
11:58that can really exacerbate and like you
12:00said brushes and makeup sponges. I'm not
12:03a fan of brushes and makeup sponges.
12:04Like I feel the base makeup should be
12:05done with the hands, you know, no matter
12:07how often you clean it. Like are you
12:08going to wash it every after every
12:10application? And oh, it really gives me
12:12the when I see on Instagram, you know
12:15how they use those makeup applicators
12:16and touch it over the acne. Oh my god, a
12:19concealer, the brush or the wand
12:21>> and they put it back in back. That is
12:24something you should absolutely not do.
12:25Especially if you have active acne which
12:27is filled with bacteria and you're
12:29transferring the bacteria from your acne
12:31to your brush and then putting it back.
12:33So you are literally spreading infection
12:35into your tube. So especially when you
12:37have active acne just take a little bit
12:39onto your fingers and dab it directly
12:40with your fingers.
12:41>> I feel that gives better coverage
12:43actually.
12:43>> That gives better coverage also.
12:44>> And with with your fingers you can also
12:47do very good blending. You know I was
12:48for the longest time a big fan of beauty
12:50blenders and sponges. I used to only do
12:52my makeup with sponges. I used to feel
12:53that only that gives flawless finish.
12:55No, I think I was just not doing my base
12:56correctly in the sense if you moisturize
12:58your skin well then you can blend it
13:00even with your hands you know but if you
13:03are somebody doing it on a regular basis
13:04but if you have like a thick foundation
13:06like the one I have on now I just use
13:08that one layer right that's slightly
13:09thick that doesn't blend very well with
13:11hands so that's when I tend to use it
13:12with a sponge or a brush but make sure
13:14you replace your brushes at regular
13:16intervals and make sure it's not
13:17contaminated also you place it in a way
13:19such that it's not accumulating dust or
13:21your face is very clean when you're
13:23doing so a lot of times brushes are used
13:24to like touch up through the day also.
13:26So that is again a practice that one
13:27should not do. So touch-ups you please
13:29have disposable sponges. I know it's a
13:31lot of economical waste. It's also going
13:33to pollute the earth. But you have to
13:35make sure that some safe practices are
13:37gotten into place. Maybe you use a um a
13:39eco-friendly tissue for doing your
13:41touchup. Um or like you said if the
13:43product is very lightweight, it can
13:45easily blend with your fingers also and
13:46it's the best way to do it.
13:48>> Yeah. Because I feel you know sponges
13:49not only hold the product it's also
13:50humid like you know it's holding water
13:52as well so that moisture and the product
13:56that combination I feel is a complete
13:58breeding ground for bacteria. So I do
14:01not recommend using makeup sponges for
14:02those who have acne acne prone skin or
14:04you know before an event.
14:06>> Um if you're doing like a trial makeup
14:08or something like that sponges are not
14:09the way to go because that can really
14:11give you a flare up. This I see most
14:13commonly with TV actors more than models
14:16or film uh actors. I see this problem
14:18mostly with TV actors when they come cuz
14:20they are shooting the whole day right
14:23from morning it's it's like for them
14:24they have this um the the schedule goes
14:27from morning to night or it's a full day
14:28thing and TV actors are supposed to are
14:31wearing very thick makeup because that
14:33is what translates onto the camera uh
14:35translates to the camera onto the screen
14:37in a better way apparently so they wear
14:39thick foundations compacts layers and
14:42layers of makeup and they have worst
14:44acne outbreaks underneath the makeup
14:46that's going But owing to their
14:47profession they have no second way about
14:50it. So there no two is there. So yeah
14:52but some little care maybe after the
14:54drinking a lot of water taking care of
14:55your overall skincare routine not
14:57applying makeup absolutely on other days
15:00these are the things that we tell them
15:01but yes and take out that extra time to
15:03properly remove the makeup like you said
15:05you know kajel is such a staple in our
15:08Indian makeup like when people talk
15:10about makeup they they only refer to
15:12kajel and lipstick you know foundation
15:13and all is very recent like in our even
15:16when I was growing up you know we did
15:17not see people apply that kind of makeup
15:19>> so regularly maybe a little bit of
15:21glittery eye shadow or you know a little
15:23bit of but kajill was used to be such a
15:24staple and this kajel particle because
15:26it is suspended in oil and because they
15:29are now such long wear kajill only
15:32available they are impossible to remove
15:34so I also recommend people to not use so
15:36much of kajel because one it also causes
15:39tye
15:39>> yes
15:40>> very difficult to remove the gritty
15:41particles tend to irritate the skin
15:42under your eyes for long our skin is
15:44very prone to develop dark spots it
15:46makes that worse and also I feel it's
15:48better to use a little bit of black um
15:51eyeshadow
15:52>> which is you know a powdery form a
15:54little bit that on the outer line rather
15:57than on the tight line. Yeah. So that
15:59can help in giving you that kind of a
16:00look without having to really struggle
16:02with removal. Removing the kajill it has
16:05to be done properly and
16:07>> so kajill is the number one cause of
16:10acquired dark circles.
16:13>> So yeah.
16:14>> Yeah. And also I think it's a kind of a
16:16vicious cycle you know like you apply
16:18kajel because you want to hide your dark
16:19circles because you feel that the
16:21attention is going away from your dark
16:23circles through that but then it's going
16:24to make it worse and then you apply more
16:25and then you know it's just you just get
16:27stuck in that. So I think now we need to
16:29rethink and maybe use like a dark brown
16:33eyeshadow even that gives a really nice
16:35soft look to the eyes. You don't need
16:37kajel to make your eyes look bigger. It
16:39actually makes your eyes look smaller.
16:40>> Smaller true. So that that is one thing
16:43that we should really avoid. Okay. So
16:45after cleanser the second step would be
16:47a serum. I feel you know serum is very
16:50very overdone. Not everybody needs it.
16:53If you are somebody on the go uh who
16:55wants a very hassle-free routine I would
16:57say just stick to cleanser moisturizer
16:58sunscreen for morning that should be
17:00enough. But yes if you want to add in a
17:01serum it's a good addition. So what are
17:03the ingredients that you look for in a
17:05serum? What do you feel can really help
17:07somebody? What do you feel are
17:08ingredients which are overdone? So
17:10firstly I will tell you you said uh for
17:12me a skincare routine can just be one
17:14step in the morning if if you if you
17:16have dry skin you can just wash your
17:18face with water and literally apply a
17:20moisturizing sunscreen and you're done
17:22right especially for lazy people who
17:24still want to maintain the health of
17:25their skin it is just this but yeah if
17:28you have very dry skin then you can add
17:29in a little bit of moisturizer and then
17:31a sunscreen but if you have dry skin
17:32sorry if you have oily skin then you
17:34will have to look at at least three
17:36steps right for us to control the oils.
17:38So you wash your face with a gentle
17:39cleanser. We are done with cleansing.
17:41And then you have a sunscreen. That is
17:43your mandatory final step. In between
17:45you can add these serums. Now what serum
17:48has to be used is a great question. It
17:50again depends on the skin type. Right?
17:53The most controversial serum or the most
17:55controversial ingredient I would say is
17:57vitamin C. It's not made equal. It's not
18:00meant for all. So we will first touch
18:01upon vitamin C. So that's put aside.
18:03Rest of it is all slightly easier.
18:05Right? So you have your vitamin C serum.
18:07That's very potent antioxidant. At the
18:09same time, it's not meant for everybody.
18:11If it is unstable, it can further cause
18:14more problems than good. It can cause
18:16uneven skin tone, make you look darker,
18:18can cause acne trigger and breakouts,
18:20right? So, vitamin C um is for who
18:23firstly, who should be looking at a
18:24vitamin C? People who have normal
18:27combination to dry skin, people who have
18:30concerns of pigmentation but not having
18:32skin sensitivity or very active acne
18:35going on. these are the right candidates
18:37for vitamin C. So what vitamin C should
18:39I take? Now it's a very big subject in
18:42itself but I think so vitamin C the most
18:44commonest formulation that we look at is
18:46an elascorbic acid which is extremely
18:49potent but it's like a pataka right it's
18:51very potent fast acting but it is also
18:53highly unstable pH to then it is
18:56rendered um non-effective and it can
18:59make your skin look dark. So elascorbic
19:01acid is definitely something for people
19:02who want quick results. If you want this
19:05ingredient then make sure you buy the
19:07best vitamin C from the best brand. The
19:09formulation should be stabilized and you
19:12if you have dry skin concerns of
19:14pigmentation you can use elascorbic acid
19:16for faster results. But if you have
19:18sensitive skin but still concerns of
19:20pigmentation and you still want to use a
19:21vitamin C then you can look at vitamin C
19:24derivatives. You have your um ascorbal
19:27gluccoside you have ethyl ascorbic acid
19:30magnesium ascorbil phosphate. All of
19:32these things are very less potent as
19:34compared to elascorbic acid. They get
19:36converted to elascorbic acid and they
19:38are all rendered effective after but
19:40takes very long time for them to give
19:42you results. Which is why a lot of times
19:44people say I'm using vitamin C for the
19:46longest time. I don't see any results.
19:47That is because it takes a lot of time
19:49for a less potent vitamin C formulation
19:51to give you results. Okay. So we have
19:54the vitamin C derivatives that are not
19:56very um unstable but not very potent
20:01either. So either you look at elascorbic
20:03acid from a great brand, spend little
20:05extra money on your vitamin C serum. Do
20:07not take chances with your vitamin C
20:08serum. And then you have less potent
20:10ones in all these forms that we just
20:11discussed. You can still use it if you
20:13have slightly sensitive skin um with
20:15concerns of pigmentation or if you're
20:17somebody having exposure to pollution a
20:20lot or exposure to light. Somebody who
20:22is getting a lot of free radical damage
20:24is somebody who must have antioxidants
20:26in their skincare routine. Right? Um so
20:28this is about that. So what percentage
20:30should I use? Always start slow and you
20:32can increase your percentage. Start with
20:34five progress to 10 and then make it 15
20:3620 gradually especially if it's
20:38elascorbic acid. Anything lesser any any
20:41other forms you can start off with 10%
20:43also it's okay.
20:44>> Biggest question and the biggest change
20:46I've made in my vitamin C protocols
20:48anchel is that I used to give vitamin C
20:50in the morning uh in most of my routines
20:52but now I've made it as a night
20:53ingredient um because again unless it's
20:55stabilized well photo sensitivity is
20:58still a concern with vitamin C. So now
20:59I've made it in the night routine. Uh
21:03and vitamin C is great. I I always look
21:07for vitamin C that has a combination of
21:08ferolic acid and vitamin E. Why? Cuz
21:12vitamin C is unstable which is little
21:14bit stabilized with when we add ferolic
21:16acid and it's increases its potency
21:19because of synergistic energy with
21:20vitamin E. So now it is more uh photo
21:24stable. It is more effective when
21:26vitamin C is combined with your ferolic
21:28acid and vitamin. Always look at this
21:29trio if you can. Of course, it's going
21:31to be slightly more expensive than your
21:34um solo vitamin C serum. But this is
21:36what is going to be very effective. Is
21:38going to render um a safety as well. So
21:41this is a combination. In this
21:42combination, I still give it during the
21:44daytime especially if you are working
21:45now. A lot of people are working at
21:46working from home. They're not getting
21:48exposed to a lot of sun. So it is okay.
21:50But if you have lot of sun exposure, I
21:52would still prefer putting your vitamin
21:53C at night.
21:55>> Any other things you want to add on
21:57about vitamin C?
21:58>> That's exactly what I feel about vitamin
22:00C also. I don't think vitamin C is a
22:02panacea for everything.
22:04>> Oh yeah. Like how people look at vitamin
22:06C as if it's going to treat everything
22:08and it's some some ingredient that
22:09you're missing out on. A teenager wants
22:11to use vitamin C. Somebody in their 60s
22:13wants to use vitamin C. No. like you
22:15know I feel it is also for a specific
22:17type of skin who can tolerate it and I
22:20in Indian skin type usually prefer to
22:22use threeoscorbic acid and along with
22:26that you know they do say sodium
22:27ascorbic phosphate is meant for oily
22:29acne prone skin but I don't like to give
22:30vitamin C for anybody with active acne
22:33or acne prone skin because it is known
22:35to exacerbate it there are other
22:37antioxidants in the market I think
22:38because of marketing vitamin C has been
22:40pushed so hard that people are made to
22:43believe that this is something you
22:44absolutely truly need
22:45>> when we have oily acne prone skin we
22:47already have lot of activives to be
22:48already giving to this person how much
22:49more can we add to their routine
22:51>> yeah I look at vitamin C as an
22:53ingredient which somebody will use who
22:55has no other issues who wants to
22:56maintain their skin and make it better
22:58and brighter and more even tone I look
22:59at it like that you know because it is
23:01not an ingredient that's going to treat
23:02anything for me it is going to improve
23:04your skin quality so let's say if you
23:06have acne I will treat that first if you
23:08have uh you know melasma I will treat
23:10that first you know and then yeah maybe
23:12for maintenance of melasma I might add a
23:14vitamin Vin C but vitamin C is not my
23:16go-to for as a treatment. It's just an
23:18addition. It's just going to give you
23:20the little bit of a glow. If that is
23:21what you're chasing, yes, but that is
23:23provided you don't have any other
23:25concerns that requires urgent attention,
23:27you know. So, I get a lot of patients
23:29who come and expect me to write vitamin
23:31C in their get disappointed when the
23:33vitamin C is not prescribed.
23:34>> Dr. Vitamin C.
23:36>> Yeah. But you say vitamin C is so good.
23:39Why you not written? But I'm like, no,
23:40you have you have come to a
23:41dermatologist with certain concerns.
23:43Let's settle that once your skin is
23:45normal then you want to amp it up then
23:47that is when vitamin C comes in for me
23:49you know because if you have other
23:50concerns like let's say acne dark spots
23:53>> or you know very prominent uneven skin
23:56tone some kind of melasma that you
23:58really want to take care of then vitamin
24:00C does not feature anywhere you know so
24:03that's how I look at so other
24:05ingredients of the serum I want to
24:06discuss separately so now let's move on
24:08to moisturizer how to choose a
24:10moisturizer what makes a moisturizer
24:13a good one versus you know something
24:15that you can just discard. So let's get
24:17into moisturizer.
24:18>> So let's say this once for all like
24:20we've been saying this for years and
24:21let's again repeat it so that people
24:24understand that moisturizer is the most
24:27important product in your skinincare
24:29routine without which you will not have
24:32a healthy skin barrier without which
24:35anything you do to your skin is a fail.
24:38So your skinincare barrier has to be
24:40intact, has to be healthy for it to
24:42accept other ingredients and perform and
24:45deliver. So without a moisturizer,
24:47please understand that you're failing
24:49your skincare routine. All the other
24:51expensive products are not going to be
24:52worth it. Even your sunscreen for me
24:55moisturizer is the most important.
24:57>> Yeah. I think I look at moisturizer as
24:58you know diet in our lifestyle.
25:00>> Yeah.
25:00>> How important it is. You do everything.
25:02you eat unhealthy that you know no
25:05matter how much you're sweating it out
25:06in the gym it's not going to work even
25:08though it seems like something very
25:10light you know it's not a fancy product
25:12you know it's not very glamorous or
25:14exciting or moisturizer seems like you
25:15know whatever I've been using it forever
25:17>> very underrated and taken for granted
25:19>> you know you feel that what is there in
25:21a moisturizer I can use any I can just
25:22slam it on whatever's there on my table
25:24but no I think moisturizer is so
25:25important or good moisturizer can
25:28completely change your skin every time
25:29patient comes in like doc give me the
25:31best sunscreen give me a great vitamin
25:34C. They never talk about moisturizer.
25:35>> They never mention moisturizer. They
25:37feel like a cleanser they want best.
25:38They would want to really spend on a
25:39serum. Yeah. Moisturizer. You don't have
25:41to spend on it's not something
25:44but nobody cares about a good
25:46moisturizer.
25:47>> Absolutely. So moisturizer is very
25:49important including oily acne prone skin
25:51because oily skin is not equal to a
25:54hydrated skin. Even the most oiliest
25:56skins will still need a moisturizer just
25:58the right one. Okay. So now what what
26:00does a moisturizer do? Like we said it's
26:02going to hydrate your skin and a
26:04hydrated skin equals to a healthy skin
26:06and then rest of it is going to happen
26:09only after that. So for a moisturizer we
26:11look at three categories right? We have
26:13hctants
26:14basically which draw water to the skin
26:16either from outside or from the deeper
26:18layers of the skin. So these are your
26:20hyaluronic acid, glycerin, you have ura,
26:23panthanol. These are all humctants that
26:25will actually help in holding the water
26:27into the tissues which is very
26:29important. And then you have emollient
26:31which
26:33these are like they fill up the gaps
26:34between your skin cells and they hydrate
26:36the skin. They nourish the skin very
26:38important especially if you have dry
26:39skin. So the humctants are mostly for we
26:41can add these for people who have oily
26:43skin combination skin um or even normal
26:47skin people. But if you have dry skin,
26:48we have to look at hum we have to look
26:50at emollients that will add that extra
26:53nourishment to the skin. Now these are
26:55your butters, shea butters, cocoa
26:57butters, our favorite ceramides, fatty
27:00acids, squaline. These are the amazing I
27:04my dry skin is already happy even just
27:06hearing to these ingredients. Right? So
27:07you have your um emollients and then you
27:10have your occlusives. So these are these
27:13these are not going to hydrate your
27:14skin. They're not going to do anything
27:15as such but they're only going to seal
27:17the skin. So it prevents the
27:20transepidermal water loss. So this is
27:22specifically important for people who
27:24have broken skin barrier, eczema,
27:26psoriasis. So this is when u you know
27:29people with all these kind of concerns
27:30where there is loss of water and extreme
27:32dry dehydrated skin is there going to
27:34get benefited. Now which one to choose?
27:37First two categories are always com it
27:40comes in a combination. All right. Um so
27:43you have to look at moisturizers that at
27:45least have these ingredients like
27:47hyaluronic acid, glycerin, ceramides,
27:49squaline, shea butters, NMF. These are
27:52the basic things. Now it depends on your
27:55skin type what formulation you prefer.
27:58If you have oily skin, go with something
28:00that's extremely light that hydrates
28:02your skin without blocking your pores.
28:04So you look at gel-based, water-based
28:06consistency, very very lightweight. And
28:09then you have dry to combination skin.
28:11This is when you look for cream based
28:12formulations wherein you have all your
28:14butters and ceramides which are cream
28:16based which are thick rich and going to
28:18hydrate your skin and stay for a long
28:21time right they give you like 12 hours
28:23protection 8 hours protection so
28:25longlasting protection and then you have
28:28psoriasis ichthiosis eczeas dry skin is
28:31when you apply this thick rich creams
28:33let it seep into the skin for a bit and
28:35you seal it with the occlusives your
28:37petroleum your occlusives comes like
28:39your petroleum jellies You have your
28:41beeswax, coconut oil, um, dimethylon.
28:45These are all your good sealants. So,
28:47you apply a nice mistake people do
28:49especially with lips is that they apply
28:51the petroleum jelly and think their lips
28:53are hydrated.
28:54>> It's not going to work.
28:55>> It's not going to work. You have to
28:56apply a good nourishing hydrating lip
28:59balm. Leave it for some time and just
29:00right about when you're going to sleep
29:02at least twice a week you apply the
29:04petroleum jelly. Similarly, we tell
29:06people with a very very dry skin, you
29:08apply nice moisturizer on damp skin in
29:10the morning after your bath and night
29:12before your bedtime, let it seep in.
29:15Apply the petroleum jelly. Especially
29:16for people who have um or like you know
29:19like foot eczemas, cracked feet, then
29:21you apply this, put on your cotton socks
29:24and sleep. So sealants are there to seal
29:26the deal, not to nourish your skin. Do
29:28not confuse olusives with emollients or
29:31hctants. This is the number one mistake
29:33people are doing because like like we
29:35just discussed moisturizers are taken
29:36for granted. Whatever is the cheapest
29:38they're buying and if you look at the
29:39ingredients it's mostly petroleum jelly.
29:41It's mostly the beeswax that is giving
29:42that nice smooth finish but not doing
29:44anything to the skin.
29:45>> So people with dry skin it's only going
29:47to worse.
29:48>> Correct. Yeah. So that's also how I
29:50choose a moisturizer that it has to be
29:52lightweight. My problem comes when
29:55prescribing a moisturizer for
29:56combination skin.
29:57>> So for that then what do you say? I so
29:59if it's really like some people have a
30:01normal like little normal to combination
30:03skin to then we give them something that
30:05is not super lightweight not super rich
30:07it is in between hanging but for some
30:09people have overtly like very oily
30:11T-zone very dry um uh you know cheek
30:15area then we give two moisturizers we
30:16have no other choice but to give two
30:18moisturizers we give them two cleansers
30:20sunscreen somehow we give them something
30:22that is not too rich so they apply a
30:24little bit of moisturizer on the dry
30:25area and use the same sunscreen but
30:27cleansers fbe we have to give them two
30:28separate and moisturized also to give
30:31them two separate
30:31>> correct so this is the thing that I
30:32wanted to bring out you know when it
30:34comes to combination skin type sadly
30:36you'll have to spend more on skinare
30:38you'll require multiple products because
30:40sometimes your skin will be on the drier
30:42side sometimes on the oily side you know
30:43your cheeks are usually always dry the
30:45T-zone which gets oily
30:47>> but it is so difficult to find one
30:49product that will suit you throughout
30:50the season or you that you can apply all
30:52over your face so if because combination
30:54skin type is so common uh I think it's
30:57important to understand that you will
30:58require a little more products than
31:00usual. Keep a few in your bag so that
31:03you can you know reach out to it
31:04whenever your skin requires a little bit
31:05more nourishment or have that cleanser
31:08which helps in reducing the oil when you
31:10feel it's too oily.
31:11>> So combination skin a little bit of
31:12titration.
31:13>> Yeah. Once once once they get used to
31:14that routine actually in about 2 weeks I
31:16think they're okay. They understand what
31:17to use when they also become smart
31:19enough if they're self-aware and if they
31:21tune into the skin and understand they
31:23also know. So so I tell them like use a
31:25very take a light carry a lightweight
31:26moisturizer with you. So whenever you
31:27feel your skin in certain parts is dry,
31:29just reapply that moisturizer and top it
31:31up with a sunscreen. So they understand
31:32the nuances of skinare once they're
31:34self-aware and tuned into the skin.
31:36>> Yeah. So that's what moisturizer is very
31:38very important. You just need to find
31:39the right one. Also, one myth that I
31:41really need to break is people feel that
31:44if you apply too much of moisturizer,
31:45your skin is going to stop making its
31:47natural oils and it's going to turn your
31:49skin more dry.
31:51>> This will only be said by somebody who
31:53does not know how the skin works. It is
31:56not like that. There is no feedback
31:57mechanism because it works the other way
31:59like yeah if you're oily skin and then
32:01you're trying to strip the oils out then
32:02your skin will make more oil to
32:04compensate does not mean that if you're
32:06going to apply moisturizer your skin
32:08will become more and more dry that is
32:10wrong. I even heard like if you drink a
32:12lot of water we don't have to moisturize
32:13our skin
32:14>> so internal hydration is very much
32:16different from external hydration or
32:18hydrating your superficial epidermal
32:20layers. It's very very different. Yes,
32:21when you drink good amount of water, you
32:23are your skin is going to obviously be
32:25more hydrated and healthy, but it does
32:27not replace the hydration that your
32:29moisturizer is going to give externally.
32:31>> Absolutely. And on this point of oral
32:33and topical, you know, even vitamin C,
32:34people say no why you're applying
32:35vitamin C on the skin like you take
32:37fruits, you take juices,
32:39>> but the vitamin C that you take orally
32:41that consume orally has a different
32:42action in the body and what you apply
32:44topically has a completely different
32:46action. So, you know, it cannot replace
32:48one cannot replace the other. Though
32:49drinking water is very important but if
32:51you have dry skin you're only drinking
32:52water that's not going to work. Uh
32:54though you know like if you if you want
32:56to take some supplement omega three
32:58supplements help in retaining a little
33:00bit of moisture. So yeah understanding
33:02these aspects is very important
33:04otherwise you're just going to give up
33:05on skinare and feel that you're not
33:07seeing results. In very dry skin
33:08individuals like zerosis or in older
33:10individuals whose skin is becoming dry
33:12with age, we also give oral
33:13moisturizers. That's also going to
33:15>> Yeah.
33:16>> Yeah. But we still put them on topical
33:18moisturizers also because everything has
33:20its own place and mechanism of action.
33:22So do not confuse or replace one with
33:24other.
33:24>> Correct. Now uh the last step for the
33:27morning skincare routine which is a
33:28sunscreen. So just a simple you know
33:30sunscreen can be a different podcast all
33:32together. If you get into the filters
33:34the details it's going to go on forever.
33:36So just a very small simple guide as to
33:39how to choose a sunscreen according to
33:41your skin type.
33:41>> I would first start off by saying that
33:43we are all now spoiled with choice.
33:45There was a time where we were
33:47struggling to find a good sunscreen that
33:49is effective and still not leaving a
33:51white cast that is aesthetically
33:53acceptable. But now we are so confused
33:55as in what to apply because many
33:58sunscreens have now are very effective
34:00and fortunately or unfortunately super
34:02acceptable aesthetically also. So now we
34:04are spoiled with choice. So there is no
34:06reason for you not to be using a
34:07sunscreen at this point. Firstly, let me
34:09just start off with that because gone
34:11are the days where oh dog but the
34:12sunscreen is giving white cast. Oh dog
34:13but the sunscreen is making me look
34:14dark. No
34:14>> or it's making me sweat too much too
34:17oily.
34:18>> That that's the thing of the past now.
34:20Um so first thing is okay let's just
34:22keep it very simple. Okay there are two
34:24basically two important forms of a
34:26mineral sunscreen. a pure mineral
34:28sunscreen that only has physical filters
34:30like your zinc oxide, titanium dioxide
34:32and then you have your hybrid sunscreen
34:34that has chemical filters along with
34:36physical filters. Now if you are
34:38somebody who is um you know very
34:42scared or apprehensive about using
34:44physical chemical filters like you don't
34:46want to use chemical sunscreen at all or
34:48you're pregnant to babies, children or
34:52you have very very sensitive skin please
34:55stick to pure mineral sunscreens. This
34:57is not a a category of people who should
34:59be using chemical sunscreens at all. Um
35:02now fortunately again many mineral
35:04sunscreens have come in the market that
35:05are very acceptable aesthetically they
35:08are not leaving a white cast. The
35:10formulations are super light very good.
35:12So please stick to your mineral
35:13sunscreens. But if you want to have more
35:16options um and if you are open to using
35:19certain chemical filters you are the
35:21candidate for chemical filters. What are
35:23the basics you need to keep in mind? We
35:25know that you have to look for SPF of at
35:27least 30 to 50. I I personally prefer
35:3050. Anything above that is just
35:31marginally effective. Then you look at
35:34PA rating that has at least three or
35:36three plus. Four plus is the best. Now
35:39you have to look for blue light filter
35:41protection also because even if you are
35:44a software engineer or from any other
35:46field all of us now have screen time
35:49either through phone through laptops.
35:51You and I being doctors are still having
35:53a lot of screen time. We all our
35:55prescriptions are through our systems.
35:57We read write everything is happening on
35:59the system. So at some point at some
36:01level we all have blue light exposure.
36:04So you have to look at your sunscreen
36:05that has blue light protection as well.
36:07Um and if you are like you now we have
36:10better understanding not to be using
36:13certain chemical filters like
36:15everenzone, benzopenon, octoryline. It
36:18is not that sunscreens having these are
36:20harmful. Please let us set the record
36:22straight. It is about the percentage and
36:25it is about how frequently you're using.
36:27All the lab studies that have been done
36:28saying these ingredients are not safe
36:30have been done on animal studies very
36:33high huge high percentage which we will
36:36never in our lifetime use that kind of
36:38percentage cumulatively also in our
36:39lifetime. So it is not a direct threat
36:41of endocrine disruption but still all of
36:44us want to be as safe as possible and
36:47fortunately now India is also getting
36:49lot of new age filters like tenosorb s
36:52tenosorb m uile a we have all the suns
36:55we have sunscreens with all these new
36:56age filters that are coming up now so we
36:58are lucky enough to be in a country
37:00where um it's more of accepting of the
37:03uh European standards as well so we have
37:04all these we still have lot of
37:06sunscreens with older filters you can
37:08now choose but If you have a sunscreen
37:10with these filters, there's nothing to
37:12panic. Finish the tube and choose for a
37:13new age filter at this point. Um, and
37:16like we said, for children and pregnant
37:18women, please stick to using mineral
37:19sunscreens. Once in a while, you just
37:21want to slather a little bit of chemical
37:23sunscreen. You're pregnant and you
37:24slather, there's nothing to be worried
37:25about. Absorption, it'll disrupt your
37:28hormones or something bad is going to
37:30happen to your pregnancy. No.
37:31>> If it's an accidental exposure, nothing
37:33to worry. But consciously choose for
37:35mineral sunscreens. Correct?
37:37And then I always say the best sunscreen
37:39is that has these three points and
37:40something that you really like applying
37:42and reapplying
37:43>> because if it sunscreen is one of the
37:45most effective formulations but still
37:46you don't like for example personally I
37:48don't prefer silicon sunscreens right I
37:50somehow don't like the silicon
37:52sunscreens but that doesn't mean they're
37:54bad right if you like silicon sunscreen
37:56please go ahead and use it if you like
37:57cream based use it but just use a
37:59sunscreen on a consistent basis
38:01>> that meets all the basic criteria we
38:03just discussed
38:04>> correct
38:04>> so that and also one thing thing that I
38:06feel is you know with uh so many
38:08products flooding the market where they
38:10are coming up with watery sunscreen
38:12fluid sunscreens yes they are good
38:14>> but I also feel that a sunscreen should
38:16form a layer on your skin it should not
38:18be so thin that it completely uh you
38:21know kind of dribbles yeah dribbles away
38:25or you know you have to really rub in I
38:27feel that sunscreen should firstly not
38:29be rubbed so much and just form a layer
38:31on the skin sitting there
38:33>> uh and does not completely evaporate or
38:36you know sits there it so that it forms
38:38a protective layer that I feel is a
38:39little important and especially if you
38:41are somebody who has a lot of sun
38:43exposure I prefer you know if you if you
38:45are somebody who's using makeup or do
38:47not have too much of sun exposure maybe
38:49let's say 15 minutes 20 minutes in a day
38:51then you can go for a watery fluid
38:52sunscreen it's okay uh but then if you
38:55are somebody out in the sun really you
38:57know or struggling with melasma
38:58struggling with uh pigmentation which is
39:00not feeding at all struggling with
39:02uneven skin tone which is not getting
39:03better then I feel you need to go for a
39:05sunscreen with at least a gel or a cream
39:07base which is going to form a layer on
39:09the skin and you know it's sitting on
39:10your skin and protecting your skin and
39:12it also see I I've picked this term you
39:14have to put two finger lens so you also
39:16have to choose a texture that is going
39:18to give you a good measure of this two
39:19finger lengths when something is so
39:21watery and so runny in nature it is not
39:23going to give you a good quantification
39:25so then probably you might have to add
39:27another finger length into this and if
39:29something is extremely thick and it's
39:31not going to smudge well then you have
39:32to rub it a lot again that's rendering
39:34it ineffective not ineffective per se
39:36but yeah it's it's not the best way to
39:38apply the sunscreen right so something
39:39that is in the right texture is also
39:41very important which is why I'm not at
39:43all a fan of spray sunscreens sunscreen
39:45sticks mists sunscreen powders nothing
39:49at all sunscreen powders can be a great
39:50replacement for your compact when you
39:52want to just like dust it up and then
39:54>> some sort of um you know like pseudo
39:58pacifying yourself that yeah I've gotten
40:00>> rather than not doing anything it might
40:03help but you cannot depend on these You
40:05cannot dep
40:15times. How many of us are doing actually
40:17doing that with a stick?
40:18>> The thing with stick sunscreen is also
40:20that I'm against it. One, because you
40:22cannot you cannot know the quantity.
40:24Number one. Two, for that to get the
40:26texture. There's a lot of beeswax or
40:27some some sort of uh substance that is
40:30going to olude your pores. Why would you
40:33want to do that to your skin? Why would
40:34you want to trigger acne? Comedonal acne
40:36especially and just let your not skin
40:38pores breathe. So sunscreen sticks are a
40:41big no for me. Even for reapplication I
40:43like there was a period for like a month
40:46or two where I personally used it to see
40:48if there is anything that can come out
40:49of this. No. In fact at least compact is
40:52still better some level of protection
40:54but the best form of reapplication is
40:56again your original sunscreen
40:58application technique only. And what do
41:01you tell people who ask how to reapply
41:03sunscreen after makeup?
41:05>> So it is it is very tricky. No, but then
41:08again the good sunscreens now do not
41:10pile a lot, right? The sunscreens that
41:11I'm using now do not pile a lot. So what
41:13you do is you take it again. Now you
41:14can't apply two full finger length so
41:16quick. You have to take one finger
41:17length just apply just dab it let it
41:19sink. That is when you like you said
41:21also the sunscreen should sit on your
41:22skin right you don't have to rub it a
41:23lot. It has to absorb easily but not
41:25absorb fully. That is a technical
41:28difference also when people are
41:29promoting sunscreens. It it it's fast
41:31absorbing absorbs fully like there's no
41:32sunscreen but that's not the right
41:34sunscreen also. So you apply dab it on
41:36your skin a little bit and then take the
41:38next finger and dab it on your skin and
41:39then reapply your makeup on that. It's
41:42not that difficult but again let's be
41:43practical. It's not everyday thing. It's
41:46not practically possible every day. But
41:48if you have full day sun exposure now
41:50you have to do that a little bit.
41:51>> Correct. because I feel it's impossible
41:53to apply a perfect amount of sunscreen
41:56without completely ruining your base.
41:57True.
41:58>> Okay. So, little bit of touch-up is
41:59required.
42:00>> It is required. I usually tell them, you
42:02know, apply a layer of sunscreen and use
42:04a little bit of concealer on areas that
42:05you want to spot correct because the
42:07foundation is still there. It's not like
42:08complete bare face. So, maybe just the
42:10areas that you want to correct, you can
42:11apply a little bit of concealer on top.
42:13But there is no way where you can, you
42:14know, just apply like people say like,
42:16you know, you can spray sunscreen. Spray
42:18sunscreen on the face. I hate because on
42:20the body I can still be okay with it.
42:22>> You cannot be you know inhaling the
42:26aerosols.
42:26>> No,
42:27>> even if you hold on to your breath. So
42:28there's a there's a theory like okay
42:30it's very quick. I'll just uh
42:31>> and also you don't know how much has
42:33come on the skin.
42:34>> That's my how much is suspension.
42:36>> Yes. Because they say like about five to
42:38six pumps is what gives you the two full
42:40finger length. But how much of the five
42:42six pump is actually settling onto your
42:43skin is the question. And not every time
42:45you will remember to hold on to your
42:47breath. Even a little bit of inhalation
42:49over a period of time is going to be
42:51detrimental. So because it is not going
42:53to give you adequate protection is it's
42:55not recommended. The other thing is that
42:56now with new age filters we are again
42:59seeing a lot of transition in the
43:00sunscreen game. Also new age filters are
43:02offering longerlasting protections.
43:04There are four to six hours protections
43:05that we getting with many 2 to 3 hours.
43:08You don't need to reapply any um some
43:10some of the sunscreens do not have to be
43:11reapplied every 2 to 3 hours now with
43:14the new age filters.
43:15>> Correct. So that's what I like about
43:16these sunscreens now is that you know
43:19even though a few sunscreens might form
43:22a little film on the skin which is what
43:23we want a layer on the skin but if you
43:25don't have to reapply that itself is
43:26saving you from you know having layers
43:28and layers on your skin and even though
43:30you're starting out with a thin
43:31sunscreen which is not actually giving
43:32you protection it's better to use a well
43:34formulated one which is going to give
43:35you longerlasting protection. I'm sure
43:37correct.
43:38>> Now another thing that I'm sure you also
43:40struggle with is layering of products.
43:42Like you know you have these patients
43:43come with 10 products. They are applying
43:46one after the other. They are usually in
43:48the age group of 18 to 30. Okay. Who are
43:51just started experimenting with skin
43:53care and boxes of skinare.
43:55>> How much is too much and how do you
43:57titrate it? How do you tell them which
43:59what to use and what not to?
44:00>> Yeah. So like we said the basic
44:02non-negotiables are your face wash, your
44:05moisturizer, sunscreen. These three are
44:07non-negotiable. Now what fits in between
44:09these depends on your skin concerns and
44:12your skin goals also. See for example
44:14you have no concern. You know you have
44:15good normal skin but you want to age
44:17well. So then we add serums. But if you
44:19have some active concerns that is when
44:21we need to look at act adding serums
44:23based on your skin concerns. So at any
44:26point of time I don't think anybody will
44:28require more than four steps in their
44:30skincare routine. Sometimes very some
44:33very rare occasions we will need
44:35five-step skincare routine but other
44:37anything beyond this is just too much
44:39unnecessary even for if you want to
44:41indulge it is too much it's not
44:43required. So you have your sunscreen,
44:45you have your serum, a correcting serum.
44:48Suppose you have concerns of
44:49pigmentation, you can add in a serum
44:52that has depigmenting ingredients,
44:54melanin production controlling
44:55ingredients like your alpha butin, kic
44:58acid, aelic acid, tranexymic acid,
45:00vitamin C in some individuals, not all.
45:02So these are the ingredients that you
45:04look for that is if you have concerns of
45:06pigmentation. Now if you have oily skin
45:08then we tend to add a little bit of
45:09salicylic acid in the in the routine
45:11even in the daytime to control the
45:13excess oil production through the day
45:15right along with this if you have a
45:17salicylic acid plus nasinamide in the
45:19same bottle it's great but if you like
45:21two different serums this is when your
45:23fivestep is coming right you add a
45:24salicylic acid but you can also add
45:26something that has nasinomide and zinc
45:28that also is great for oily acne prone
45:30skin that reduces the inflammation oil
45:31production all of that so and then comes
45:34your sunscreen anything you're doing
45:35beyond this darling You're just wasting
45:37your time, money, and maybe you're
45:39putting your skin at risk of overdoing
45:41it and disrupting the barrier.
45:44>> Absolutely. What I tell patients is
45:46okay, you have multiple concerns. Treat
45:48two first.
45:49>> Mhm.
45:49>> Treat two most important ones or two
45:52most bothersome ones first and then move
45:54on. You know, they are like no but I'm
45:56doing this for open pores. I'm using
45:57nyinomite for open pores, for retinol
46:00for wrinkles. I want brightening. So,
46:01I'm using vitamin C. I'm using alpha
46:03butin and koojiic acid combination for
46:05uneven skin tone. like no you can't do
46:07all of this at once you know like go
46:10step by step treat two concerns once
46:12that is better then you can formulate a
46:14routine that is how you should do it and
46:16yes not more than two serums or not more
46:18than two activives at once it's not
46:20required
46:20>> and people don't understand that you
46:22know you're applying a layer and that's
46:24not like a mantle there you're just
46:27moving that product from one place to
46:28the other and you just ended up diluting
46:30the product so you're just rendering it
46:31>> ineffective effective
46:33>> you know so so see also okay now we we
46:36spoke about pigmentation and oily right?
46:37So if you have dry skin you use your
46:39cleanser, you use your hydrating serum
46:42and then you use your sunscreen. But if
46:44you have very dry skin then you add a
46:45moisture. So then this has become up to
46:46four steps.
46:47>> So this is the thing. Now the thing with
46:49layering is um
46:51>> also people should understand that one
46:53ingredient can do more than one task.
46:55Right? You're using your salicylic acid.
46:57It can exfoliate your skin. It can
46:59control your oils thereby taking care of
47:01your blackheads, white heads, active
47:02acne, all of that. And it can also
47:05tackle your uneven skin tone
47:07>> and open pores.
47:08>> And open pores and all these concerns
47:10can be done with that one. You don't
47:12have to add a separate one for tackling
47:14individual concerns. Again, you have a
47:17retinol that will still retinoid
47:20specifically that can take care of your
47:21acne, aging concerns, enlarged pores,
47:25textural improvement, everything. One
47:27ingredient can do it for you. So what's
47:29the point of adding 10 different
47:31activives, right? So when you add five
47:33to six routine in your steps in your
47:36routine, you're not even giving enough
47:37time for the product to penetrate well
47:39cuz you're not going to come back every
47:4010 minutes to apply each step. Not many
47:42people can do that. So you wash your
47:44face, apply your serum, leave it on for
47:46a few seconds, then go on with your
47:47sunscreen or a moisturizer or your night
47:49cream, whatever it is. That keep it
47:51simple but be super consistent cuz that
47:54is what is going to give you results.
47:55>> Correct. So that's what intensity
47:58consistency over intensity. Yes.
48:00>> Okay. That's what so consistency over
48:01intensity any day when it comes to
48:03skinare. Absolutely. Also, you know,
48:04people tend to expect results too quick.
48:07I feel the kind of skin care that you do
48:09today, your skin is going to thank you
48:1110 years down the line,
48:12>> you know, because the results are going
48:13to show 10 years down the line. A lot of
48:15people come and tell me that, you know,
48:16but my mom never used it, she has great
48:18skin, my grandmom never used anything,
48:20they have great skin, the things were
48:21different that time. The parameters of
48:23judging great skin was different. Uh the
48:26pollution exposure was different. Your
48:27grandmom was not looking at YouTube
48:29cooking videos and cooking. Your dad was
48:32not working on laptop. Your grandmom
48:34didn't have the sedentary lifestyle we
48:35have. Your grandmom um did not have the
48:38pollution exposure that we are having on
48:40a day-to-day basis. Your grandmom's
48:42ozone layer was much more protected than
48:44what the ozone layer now it's depleted.
48:47Your grandmom has better nutrition. The
48:49soil was nutr nutrition dense and the
48:51food that she was eating was much more
48:53nutrition dense as compared to what we
48:55are doing. Your grandmom was not eating
48:57packaged food. Your grandmom was not as
49:00aesthetically conscious as we are all
49:02now. That is very very very important to
49:05understand that a 60-year-old now
49:07doesn't want to look like a 60-year-old
49:10while a 60 year while a 40year-old back
49:12then was looking like a 60-year-old and
49:14they didn't care.
49:16>> So it's very important even nowbody's
49:18forcing you to do all of these things.
49:20If you are aesthetically conscious or
49:24want to age a certain way is when you do
49:26all of these things. If you just want to
49:27maintain your skin healthy, all you can
49:30do is to apply moisturizer and your face
49:32wash, sunscreen when you have sun
49:34exposure. At least let's keep it to
49:35that. But if you want to look a certain
49:38way, you want to age gracefully. I'm
49:39again I'm not saying that you have to
49:41look uh 30 when you're 16. No, that's
49:43not what I'm trying to say. People will
49:44come in the comments and say, "Oh,
49:46you're age shaming, body shaming." No,
49:47that's not what it is. Everyone chooses
49:50the way they want to age. Everyone has
49:52the right to choose how they want to age
49:53is what I'm saying. So if you want to
49:55look a certain way at certain age,
49:57please put in that work and effort and
49:59be consistent. That's all it is.
50:01>> Correct. Yeah. So that's what defining
50:02your skincare goals is very important.
50:04You should know what you're expecting
50:06from it. If you're expecting uh you know
50:08you going to only maintain it then
50:11something very basic is going to be
50:12enough. If you want to correct certain
50:14things then slightly more you know. So
50:16that is how we titrate and make a
50:17skincare routine depending upon what
50:19your goals are. See a lot of patients
50:20who come to me with acne scars, they've
50:22accepted their scars. They don't want to
50:23remove it and they are absolutely okay.
50:25But a small dark spot bothers them.
50:27>> Exactly.
50:27>> You know, uh but I'll be like no but
50:29won't like don't you want to treat the
50:30scars. They're like no scars have been
50:32there on my face for 20 years now. It's
50:34a part of my personality. But this dark
50:35spot has come today and that that's what
50:38I want to address. And the other way
50:39around, you know, some people have
50:40accepted the dark spots, but the new
50:42scar bothers them. So that's what so
50:44defining your skinincare goals wanting
50:46uh being very having clarity on what you
50:49want to improve what you want to change
50:51and what you want to accept is very
50:52important only then will you see results
50:54so that's what having skincare goals in
50:56mind knowing what you want to achieve
50:57and communicating that with your
50:58dermatologist is also very important
51:00>> you and your dermat being on the same
51:01page is very important
51:02>> yeah because sometimes you are you've
51:03come with a certain set of expectations
51:05but you've not fully explained it and
51:07then you are then not happy with the
51:09outcome
51:10>> so that has to be clearly put on the
51:13table. Now I want to ask about certain
51:14activives. Okay, we are when we talk
51:16about skincare routine, it's all about
51:17activives, what should you use? So just
51:19a few things what you feel the active
51:22stands like you know which is overhyped
51:24which can be ignored which you think
51:25needs attention and who needs it. So
51:29ninomide
51:30>> oh god my favorite way to put it out is
51:32jack of all trades, master of none. So
51:35it can be there in anything. It can be
51:36paired well with every ingredient mostly
51:39and it can help with every concern. So
51:41it's just there. It's good to have but
51:43it's not a mandatory ingredient is what
51:45I would say. Um it helps with oil
51:47control a little bit dark spots a little
51:49bit skin rejuvenation. It does lot of
51:51things and I fail to understand the
51:53exact mechanism of action of nasmide.
51:55Every time I read about it I'm left with
51:57a little bit of confusion all the time.
51:59But I think yeah it's not necessary to
52:01have it's good to have.
52:03>> Yeah. So what I look at nioinamide is
52:05like a supportive ingredient. Yes. you
52:08know alone it will not do anything but
52:10it is a very good supportive ingredient
52:13it helps with better action of
52:15everything else that it's paired with so
52:17that is how you can look at it also
52:19nyinomide I usually prefer in slightly
52:20younger patients you know who have
52:22decent skin and who want to use
52:24something who want to maintain their
52:25skin don't have real complaints but want
52:27to improve the quality of the skin then
52:29okay but I feel you know nasinomide as
52:31an alone ingredient is not much of a
52:33help so as a single ingredient serum I
52:35don't think so
52:36>> I think it's waste of money and time you
52:37can mix it with like I said nasinomide
52:39and zinc nastamide with salicas is a
52:41great combination
52:42>> combination
52:43>> in a vitamin C if you have nyinomide
52:44that's also okay retinol with ninamide
52:46also makes it a little uh you know let's
52:49say more tolerable on the skin and
52:51reduces the irritation potential
52:52nyinomide with alpharbotin or kujic acid
52:55might help in you know a little bit of
52:57uneven skin tone but nyinomide as a
52:59single standalone ingredient is not
53:02going to do much
53:03>> no
53:04>> not going to do much so don't put all
53:06your hopes on Nice. Now another
53:09ingredient is retinol.
53:10>> Retinol versus tininoine. Retinol and
53:14other retinoids. Retinol and retinol.
53:16>> What do you feel about retinol?
53:18>> See my favorite is retinoids. Okay. Um
53:22which we will not tell the names or
53:23anything but is a very super
53:25prescription strength medication. Guys,
53:26you have to use this only under the
53:28doctor's supervision. Every time you
53:30hear negative stuff about retinoids or
53:33retinol is when you've misused it.
53:35Otherwise it is the holy grail of our
53:37skin care especially for across age
53:40groups right you have a teenager with
53:42acne retinoid you have even like
53:45concerns of uneven skin tone and
53:46pigmentation still retinoids will help
53:48if you do it the right way and then you
53:50have older aging individuals retinoid
53:52comes to the rescue so it is very
53:54important a very integral part of our um
53:57treatments medical grade treatments plus
54:00aesthetic concerns also so it's it's we
54:02can't do without retinoids I would
54:04prefer Retinol is very mild. Let's put
54:06it in a way that people can easily
54:08understand, right? So, it's still very
54:10mild. It it has good anti-aging
54:11benefits. Not so much with acne. I would
54:13not prefer anti-aging benefits. So, if
54:15you're a beginner with skincare and want
54:17to start off with an anti-aging
54:18protocol, a very mild retinoid is going
54:21to help you. You have to start using
54:23retinol if you want to have a
54:24well-agging protocol without which you
54:26cannot. Um, and then always always start
54:29by using very little quantity. do it
54:32weekly once and then gradually progress
54:34it to weekly two or three times. You
54:36don't require more than that if it is a
54:37mild retinol. If it is a potent retinol,
54:39weekly once is what I advise them. Two,
54:42never use it on extremely dry skin. Wash
54:45your face, use a little bit of hydrating
54:46serum or a very lightweight moisturizer
54:49and then put your retinoid specifically.
54:52Retinol nowadays are coming up with
54:54combinations of peptides and other
54:56hydrating serums. So you can directly
54:58apply that on your skin and always seal
55:00it up with a good moisturizer. If you
55:02have concerns of perioral pigmentation,
55:05underey dark circles or like autotopic
55:07skin, sensitive skin, you are not
55:09probably the right candidate to use
55:10retinol as of now or at least avoid
55:13using in those areas which are prone to
55:14get more pigmented in Indian skin types,
55:17right? So you have to be just be careful
55:18and wise about using the retinol.
55:20Quantity depend matters, frequency
55:22matters, percentage matters, um how you
55:27apply matters and as long as you're
55:28doing this right, retinol is going to be
55:31the best friend for an aging skin.
55:33>> Absolutely. I feel retinol is that one
55:35ingredient which can never be overhyped.
55:37I feel it is you know it deserves the
55:40position that it has. Just need to
55:41understand exactly how to use it and
55:44what to expect from it. There is no
55:46magical ingredient in skincare. If
55:47you're feeling that it's going to wipe
55:49off your lines and wrinkles, it's not
55:50going to. What it does is boosts
55:52collagen and improves your skin texture
55:54and by that improves your fine lines.
55:56Will it erase it completely? No, it's
55:58not. You know, is it going to make your
56:00open pores disappear? No, it's not. But
56:02it's definitely going to make it appear
56:03less prominent. That's what we're
56:05looking at. And uh yes, so prescription
56:07medications, let's not talk about it
56:09because that has to be only done under
56:11supervision. And I think, you know,
56:12enough damage has been done because of
56:13those creams being so widely circulated
56:16in social media. And you know we are
56:17seeing those side effects of how people
56:18are using it using it wrong coming to us
56:21with reactions. So that absolutely
56:23should not be done. But a retinol is a
56:25very good ingredient to include. I
56:26usually prefer using retinol late 20s
56:29that's when I suggest what do you
56:31suggest? Same thing. Again it depends on
56:33individuals uh age aging pattern. Right.
56:36There are times where we see even like
56:37early 20 year olds having aging uh that
56:41is occurring very early on owing to
56:42their genetics owing to their exposures
56:45owing to their habits. A lot of times
56:46chronic smokers tend to age more faster.
56:49Um excess alcohol consumption, late
56:51night u uh late night sleep patterns,
56:54excessive stress, all of these factors
56:56also tend to make them age faster. So
56:57this is the time where we also tend to
56:59start anti-aging protocol slightly more
57:01earlier. Um so it it is it is one is age
57:03dependent but also it is depending on
57:05your active concerns that we are looking
57:06at. So there are times where we have
57:07started with know even in like mid20s
57:09but very low percentage. We start very
57:11slow like ask them to take it like once
57:12in 10 days first once a week and then we
57:15gradually progress it but never doing it
57:17more than two times a week. Correct.
57:18>> Unless it's extremely mild. Yeah.
57:20>> Correct. Going slow with retinol is very
57:22very important and don't use it along
57:24with an exfoliator. If you have
57:26experimented with a new skincare
57:28ingredient maybe that is not the time to
57:29start your retinol. You know, like I
57:31usually tell patients that once you
57:33understand your skin type and you know
57:36that you're able to uh kind of make a
57:38skincare routine with a cleanser,
57:39moisturizer and a sunscreen, then you
57:41add in a retinol. Don't add in all at
57:43once. You know, once you have this base
57:46ready and you're very comfortable using
57:47that on a regular basis, then you add in
57:49a retinol in order to see results. I
57:51feel the same about any active that you
57:53use. But what people do is go and
57:55purchase the active the first and you
57:57know start with the active and then of
57:59course then you will not be able to
58:01tolerate you've not understood what your
58:02skin requires needs can tolerate. So get
58:05the basics first once you are okay with
58:07that for a month two months and then you
58:09add in one um serum. What um people tend
58:12to get wrong is you know because there's
58:15so much of fear of missing out they feel
58:16that they need to go and get every new
58:18ingredient in the market try every new
58:20product that is just going to mess up
58:21your skin.
58:22>> Yeah. So even for me in my clinic the
58:25way I give the skincare routine protocol
58:26is phased out right for the first two
58:28weeks or sometimes even 3 weeks is just
58:31going to be your cleanser, moisturizer,
58:32sunscreen and maybe one serum that is uh
58:35that one active that is not too
58:37irritating right you can add like just
58:39anamite serum like we discussed or we
58:41can add like alpha butin tranmic acid
58:43combination serums. So some serum that
58:45is not very irritating, we add these
58:47things first. Two weeks are only going
58:49to do this no matter what it is. And
58:51then from the third week on we tend to
58:53add one active after the other. So if
58:55it's going to be a salicylic acid weekly
58:58one salicylic acid exfoliation, see how
59:00the skin performs for the over the next
59:02two weeks and then we make it twice a
59:03week and then comes the retinol. So it's
59:05entirely a five to six weeks of phasing
59:08out of skincare routine that I do in my
59:10practice. um only like hydrating serums,
59:14sunscreen, face wash, moisturizers is
59:16what they get in the first set.
59:18Everything is weekly one new
59:20introduction of an acid is what we are
59:21going to do.
59:22>> Correct. That is the way to go because
59:24that that ways you are seeing whe how
59:25that product is reacting to your skin.
59:27You're giving time for recovery and then
59:30you're going to see results. Otherwise,
59:31you're just going to irritate your skin.
59:32It's going to be more red. And we know
59:34in our skin type, whatever irritates
59:36will heal with darkening. So then you
59:37feel like, oh, my skin is looking
59:39darker. My skin looked so much better
59:40when I did not do skinare. Why is it
59:42looking worse? Because you're not going
59:43slow and you're not using the right
59:45products. And also all
59:48day
59:49myth, you know, like people feel that
59:51retinol, vitamin C, exfoliants or sal
59:53acid has it to be used every single day.
59:55No, you can even cycle it. You can you
59:58use it on alternate nights like some
1:00:02you cycle you have to cycle it like you
1:00:04also give in your routine. Do you
1:00:05recommend exfoliation more than once or
1:00:07maybe twice in a week? No way. Never. So
1:00:10there are some products that you use
1:00:11only once or twice in a week and some
1:00:13products maybe once in 10 15 days also.
1:00:15>> So a lot of people use these toners with
1:00:16exfoliants that they used to use.
1:00:18>> That trend should stop that.
1:00:20>> I feel that is not required at all.
1:00:21>> It's overdoing especially see I'm okay
1:00:24if you're using toners with hydrating
1:00:25ingredients just like a refreshing mist
1:00:28and all but but if you're using toners
1:00:30with exfoliants on a day and some people
1:00:31use toners twice a day also. Oh please
1:00:33you're doing it all wrong.
1:00:35>> Yeah you don't need to. People feel that
1:00:36no that's removing the dead skin to for
1:00:38the products to penetrate better but you
1:00:41don't need
1:00:42cell you removing and you're only
1:00:44removing your um the protective barrier
1:00:46after a point. How much of dead skin
1:00:48cells will you remove on a day-to-day
1:00:49basis? It's not required.
1:00:50>> Now the next ingredient is hyaluronic
1:00:52acid. Where do you think it features in
1:00:54your skincare routine? Do you routinely
1:00:57prescribe a plain hyaluronic acid or is
1:00:59it like nasinomide? Do you prefer it
1:01:01with a mixture?
1:01:02>> Hyaluronic acid can be gone with
1:01:04anything. Right. So we know sometimes if
1:01:06we feel that the routine is a lot
1:01:07elaborate now in this individual usually
1:01:10see when we prefer hyaluronic acid it's
1:01:11either for like combination skin dry
1:01:13skin and stuff like that. So then there
1:01:15are not many ingredients anyways
1:01:17conflicting there we only just want to
1:01:18add more hydration. So I give them a
1:01:20standalone hyaluronic acid in that case.
1:01:22Um but we have to make sure that it is
1:01:24used the right way. Again lots of times
1:01:26people use it on very dry skin. It's not
1:01:27going to be very effective. Um so wash
1:01:29your face on the damp skin. you use
1:01:31hyaluronic acid that comes in different
1:01:34molecular sizes. Do not I I mean now
1:01:36we're again in a good time where we have
1:01:38hyaluronic acid options that are
1:01:39available in different molecular sizes
1:01:41that's going to have different levels of
1:01:42penetration and add hydration to
1:01:44different layers of your skin as well
1:01:46instead of going with with one big
1:01:47molecular sized hyaluronic acid or one
1:01:48very small. So multiple small, medium
1:01:51and big molecular sizes is going to help
1:01:53with hydrating all the layers. So wash
1:01:54your face, apply your hyaluronic acid on
1:01:56damp skin and coat it up with your
1:01:58moisturizer or your sunscreen whatever
1:02:00is your next step.
1:02:01>> Yeah, correct. So hyaluronic acid as
1:02:04standalone I only prefer for people with
1:02:06sensitive skin who I feel will not uh be
1:02:09able to tolerate anything else you know
1:02:11for them or people who want that plump
1:02:13effect who are very very bothered by
1:02:15fine lines because I love the plumping
1:02:16effect of hyaluronic acid you know it
1:02:18instantly gives a plumping effect. It
1:02:20instantly boosts their confidence. It
1:02:22makes them feel better. So that is
1:02:24something I prefer. Otherwise,
1:02:25hyaluronic acid is an ingredient that
1:02:27can be mixed with anything else. You
1:02:28don't need a standalone serum. I feel in
1:02:30an under eye serum you can use as
1:02:33standalone or let's say something like
1:02:35you know a pre-party maybe apply that
1:02:37serum and then do your um do your makeup
1:02:39over it to give that little bit of
1:02:41plumping effect or for people who cannot
1:02:43tolerate too many ingredients because
1:02:44hyaluronic acid mostly everybody
1:02:46tolerates. So for that a little bit of
1:02:48plumping effect that can be done but
1:02:49hyaluronic acid is also a very short
1:02:52acting molecule in the sense it's not
1:02:53going to do much for your skin. Yeah.
1:02:56>> Now ceramides
1:02:58we with dry skin people we love our
1:03:00ceramides.
1:03:02Yeah. So um again it's for all skin
1:03:04types I would say because now ceramides
1:03:06are also coming up with very lightweight
1:03:07formulations. So ceramides is for
1:03:09everybody especially with dry skin. Um
1:03:13what should I say more about ceramides
1:03:14like yeah I think ceramides are good
1:03:17for all skin types everything everybody
1:03:19can use a ceramide whether it's dry skin
1:03:21oily combination sensitive you can find
1:03:24a ceramide which will suit you I like
1:03:26ceramides in combination with hyaluronic
1:03:28acid as well
1:03:32anything so ceramide is one ingredient
1:03:34which I feel anybody and everybody can
1:03:37use and they will benefit from
1:03:38>> they will benefit from definitely it's
1:03:40not like sometimes put hyaluronic acid
1:03:42it's just not going to cause infection
1:03:43but it might not benefit them also in
1:03:45the long run but ceramise is an
1:03:46ingredient that suits everybody um that
1:03:48now the formulations are not as thick as
1:03:49they were before lightweight
1:03:51formulations are coming so all skin
1:03:52types can use it and the right word like
1:03:54you said is benefit from it in the long
1:03:55run as well I like ceramides especially
1:03:59for those who feel that skin gets dry
1:04:02very quickly even after moisturizing
1:04:04they feel that you know it's flaking for
1:04:05that also because it has a little bit of
1:04:07anti-inflammatory potential it's
1:04:08repairing your skin barrier and also for
1:04:10Those who use a lot of skincare
1:04:12products, for those who are beginner in
1:04:14skincare also, if you just started using
1:04:16activives, if you're using a moisturizer
1:04:18with a ceramide, you know, you are kind
1:04:20of repairing the barrier, soothing the
1:04:22skin while also getting the benefits of
1:04:24the activives. So ceramides is my
1:04:26absolute favorite.
1:04:26>> Absolute favorite. Yeah.
1:04:27>> So that I really like.
1:04:29>> Next, peptides. What do you think about
1:04:30peptides? Where does it feature
1:04:32>> peptides? again um see I honestly
1:04:36speaking we don't have a complete
1:04:38understanding of the importance of
1:04:40peptides in the real long run right but
1:04:42definitely they have signaling
1:04:44properties they do have collagen
1:04:46signaling properties they have little
1:04:47anti-aging benefits and they pair well
1:04:49with every ingredient um so it it is
1:04:53great for people having early signs of
1:04:55aging and even in the long run like for
1:04:57well aging combine it with peptides now
1:04:59there are amazing formulations that have
1:05:00come up with combined retinol and
1:05:02peptides in the bottle. So that gives
1:05:04you great anti-aging benefit. So anyone
1:05:06like even young individuals can also use
1:05:08peptides. So it also has a little bit of
1:05:10hydration hydration properties to it. Um
1:05:13but are peptides absolute mandate? Not
1:05:16really. Now yeah now with more and more
1:05:19studies and more and more we are making
1:05:20it a part of the routine. Um and if
1:05:22there is a space in their skincare
1:05:23routine like at night suppose morning we
1:05:25giving them hyaluronic acid and night we
1:05:26still have some uh patience and budget
1:05:29left we can put a standalone peptide but
1:05:31otherwise I would mix it with retinol
1:05:33more and more now now I'm doing more
1:05:35studies and research on copper peptides
1:05:37that is becoming there are a lot of
1:05:39newer researches that is coming that is
1:05:40saying that this is definitely helpful
1:05:42for well aging um so I'm including more
1:05:45of copper peptides in my arrin
1:05:49yes I'm including all these peptides But
1:05:51they're still new age ingredients. I
1:05:53would say from the current research and
1:05:55understanding we have they're definitely
1:05:57safe, good for well aging, also improves
1:05:59your hydration, elasticity in your skin.
1:06:01So it is good to have. But I'm still
1:06:04waiting for my personal um experience
1:06:07with it in the long run. Like I have to
1:06:08experience it for at least 3 years for
1:06:10me to know in the long run is it going
1:06:12to be useful or not? That is what I'm
1:06:14looking at.
1:06:14>> Correct.
1:06:15>> So I look at peptides as earrings, you
1:06:17know, like an accessory.
1:06:19It's an accessory for your skinare
1:06:20routine. If you want to add in something
1:06:22that is going to amp up your skinare
1:06:24routine a little bit, you can add it,
1:06:25but it's not the base and it's not
1:06:27mandatory. It's not the most important
1:06:29>> for me. Most important will always be in
1:06:31terms of active or retinol or
1:06:33brightening serum, you know, with those
1:06:35ingredients, antioxidant ingredients,
1:06:37those once you are okay with that, once
1:06:39you are happy using that and you want to
1:06:41amp it up a little bit, then that's when
1:06:42I add a peptide. So peptides also I
1:06:45usually prefer in people who are in
1:06:46their 30s. or people in their 20ies who
1:06:49don't want to use any other ingredient
1:06:50and want something a little bit you know
1:06:53better for their skin maybe but I look
1:06:55at peptides mostly as an accessory for
1:06:57your um skinare routine
1:06:59>> well I'm also experimenting more with
1:07:00peptides now I've tried a copper peptide
1:07:03based serum for like 3 4 months
1:07:06consistently I found nothing out of that
1:07:08maybe that particular product was not
1:07:10working so I'm trying different peptides
1:07:12to see firsthand experience on but it'll
1:07:14take some more time for us to know
1:07:16exactly um the exact benefit of it
1:07:18because it's always combined with
1:07:19something or the other. So you
1:07:20definitely feel the benefit of
1:07:21thatenefit because peptides also come
1:07:24with you know either adinosine or some
1:07:26other antioxidant. So you don't know
1:07:28exactly. Definitely there is a place for
1:07:30it but we need a little bit more clarity
1:07:33>> on the exact type that will serve
1:07:35>> when they're coming up mixed up mixed up
1:07:37with retinol. There's no harm. Just
1:07:38apply it's a good combination but it's a
1:07:40good combination and I'm very hopeful.
1:07:42Pep is one ingredient that I'm looking
1:07:43forward uh to see what is going to do in
1:07:46skincare in the long run. So yeah it's
1:07:47it's something to look out for. It's the
1:07:49it's like the upcoming star.
1:07:51>> Yeah.
1:07:52>> Now next is alpha hydroxy acid. Let's
1:07:54say glycolic acid, lactic acid,
1:07:55mandelic. Where do you place them? Okay.
1:07:58Uh all of these alpha hydroxy acids are
1:08:00um all of them exfoliate but very
1:08:03gentle. Um glycolic acid is the top of
1:08:05all of these. Lactic is very mild
1:08:07mandelic. Citric though I mean it's okay
1:08:09to have them in the face wash you know
1:08:10but not as a standalone exfoliant for
1:08:12me. It's either lactic or glycolic.
1:08:14Lactic is for people who have dry skin
1:08:17very dry skin and looking for very
1:08:19gentle mild exfoliation to sensitive
1:08:21skin. Lactic acid will help. Otherwise,
1:08:24it is glycolic acid. Who people who have
1:08:26dry skin with concerns of pigmentation,
1:08:28concerns of aging, glycolic acid can
1:08:30help. It can also help. It is also a
1:08:32little gentle. So with underarm
1:08:33pigmentations, um you have your knees
1:08:36pigmentation which is slightly dry skin.
1:08:38Glycolic acid is a great choice of
1:08:40exfoliation in these body parts and for
1:08:42these concerns.
1:08:43>> Yeah, correct. So glycolic acid I feel
1:08:45should not be used more than twice in a
1:08:47week if it is in a creamy formulation.
1:08:49Once in a week exfoliation is enough. I
1:08:52think glycolic acid is again another
1:08:55kind of a third step like once your base
1:08:58is ready and you understand your skin
1:09:00and then you exfoliate. If you start off
1:09:02with exfoliation you're already damaging
1:09:03barrier and you know then you'll not be
1:09:05able to tolerate other things. So
1:09:06exfoliate. People love a good
1:09:08exfoliation. So you know it instantly
1:09:10gives you a very shiny kind of a smooth
1:09:14skin. It gives you a glow. So that's why
1:09:16chemical peels are so popular. You know
1:09:18we are basically doing that. So yes,
1:09:20glycolic acid is a good ingredient. It
1:09:22also boosts collagen, so that's good.
1:09:24Lactic acid is mild. Like you said, I
1:09:26prefer it for people with very dry skin,
1:09:28sensitive skin, maybe in a very mild
1:09:30formulation.
1:09:30>> A real game changer, I would say.
1:09:32>> Glycolic acid is a good ingredient again
1:09:34as an addition and only once or twice in
1:09:36a week.
1:09:36>> Yeah. Yeah.
1:09:37>> And more for body parts. Yeah.
1:09:39>> Yeah. More for body parts. Okay. So now
1:09:41after EHA is another BHA. So salicylic
1:09:44acid. Where does that feature?
1:09:45>> Absolute favorite for oily acne prone
1:09:47skin. Absolute favorite. cannot do
1:09:49without it. Um oil, it helps balance
1:09:52your oils, blackheads, white heads,
1:09:54active acne, all of that. Right? So
1:09:55again, it is after your face wash, you
1:09:57can apply either a salicylic acid
1:09:59chemical exfoliant, a combination in
1:10:00exfoliation pad, you have salicylic acid
1:10:03serums in any form, salicylic acid is
1:10:05great. Um just go with low percentage.
1:10:07Do not overdo it, but it can absolutely
1:10:10dry the hell out of your skin. So just
1:10:11be follow your dermat prescription with
1:10:13salicylic. There are some ingredients
1:10:15that you cannot go out of the line in
1:10:16pres out of prescription. Your salicylic
1:10:18acid, retinol, vitamin C are exfoliants
1:10:23like all all exfoliant, not just
1:10:24salicylic acid, any exfoliant um are
1:10:27absolutely
1:10:29wonderful if you follow the protocol.
1:10:31Can be absolutely detrimental if you
1:10:33don't. It's as simple as that.
1:10:34>> Yeah, it's a very good ingredient. I
1:10:36also love it for oily, acne prone skin.
1:10:38But yeah, has to be used correctly. Now
1:10:40next are two ingredients that I like to
1:10:42categorize them together which is uh kic
1:10:45acid and alpha.in what do you think?
1:10:47>> Let's put the third one also like
1:10:48electronics acid in this. So all these
1:10:49acids are good for um as they're the
1:10:52most popular depigmenting ingredients.
1:10:54My favorite for topical application
1:10:56would always be alpha butin over kic
1:10:57acid. I I I really like it as a
1:11:00deeppigmenting ingredient. Eelic acid
1:11:02alphabutin thenic acid then kic acid.
1:11:05Tronic semic acid is wonderful but I
1:11:06still prefer it in the oral uh form as
1:11:08compared to the topical application but
1:11:10when now it's all combination right so
1:11:12we have all combination serums that has
1:11:13resource inol trannics acid alphabutin
1:11:16um aelic acid combination combin extract
1:11:20so all of the combination is good but I
1:11:21would prefer alphabutin um tranmic acid
1:11:24if it consists of pigmentation I prefer
1:11:26giving it orally after thorough um
1:11:27evaluation if they're the right
1:11:29candidate but yeah these are all it's
1:11:32good so that comes in your second step
1:11:33as a serum formulation or a cream
1:11:35formation. Wash your face, apply the
1:11:36treatment serum, and then follow it up
1:11:38with your moisturizer or if you're using
1:11:40in the morning, when do you feel
1:11:41>> it? It depends again the what kind of
1:11:43pigmentation we're dealing with. Um, and
1:11:45I would prefer depigmenting serums given
1:11:47twice a day if they have active cons
1:11:48pigmentation but different formulation.
1:11:50Um, something that has like resource, a
1:11:52little bit of exfoliation, alphabutin in
1:11:54combination, then I it's a night uh
1:11:56product. But if there's no irrit
1:11:58irritant at all, then it's a daytime
1:12:00product. Twice a day I would prefer
1:12:01because everybody wants quick results.
1:12:03No, we want to tackle the pigmentation
1:12:05at the earliest but also safe.
1:12:07>> Correct.
1:12:07>> So we tend to give both the times.
1:12:09>> Do you take a break whenever you use
1:12:10alphain? After a few months do you take
1:12:12a break and then restart or you think it
1:12:14can be used for a long time without any
1:12:16problem?
1:12:16>> Every routine I take a break. We
1:12:18reevaluate after 3 months. We see how
1:12:20it's working for them, what's working,
1:12:21what's not working. Sometimes with
1:12:22pigmentation we tend to cycle the
1:12:24ingredients. But like until now we now
1:12:26many products are all combination
1:12:28products. Very rarely you're getting
1:12:30like standalone products also. know I
1:12:32mean they're still there but we also
1:12:34don't want to give like a standalone
1:12:35also I would obviously want to mix and
1:12:37match but yeah there is always
1:12:39reevaluation after 3 months if things
1:12:41are working well and it's it's really
1:12:43helping them and we see that this can
1:12:45help them more we continue otherwise we
1:12:47reiterate our protocols every 3 months
1:12:49yeah so um that's the point I wanted to
1:12:52bring out because other things you know
1:12:54like a retinol I might continue the same
1:12:56for years or you know even a vitamin C
1:12:57or an acid might it's okay if you use
1:12:59for a long time but when it comes to
1:13:00pigment uh reducing
1:13:02I do like to reevaluate see how much
1:13:05improvement has been there. Do I need to
1:13:07upscale it or do I need to reduce the
1:13:09concentration? You know, because that is
1:13:10something that you're trying to correct
1:13:13and then maintain for with something
1:13:15milder for a long time. So that that is
1:13:17one cream that I do change after a few
1:13:19months to make sure that it's still
1:13:22effective on your skin. Maybe add in a
1:13:24higher percentage if I feel that you're
1:13:26not seeing results and maybe you know
1:13:27tone it down if you feel that it's not
1:13:29required. But yes, that is one
1:13:31ingredient that I feel that you know
1:13:32should be replaced or revised after some
1:13:34time unlike a retinol. Retinol you can
1:13:36use for a very very long time and then
1:13:38continue it.
1:13:39>> Yeah, maybe after time you want to
1:13:40increase the percentage, you want to
1:13:41change the frequency. So there also once
1:13:43in a while we definitely do um
1:13:45reiterating the whole protocol
1:13:47especially with percentage because we
1:13:48start with extremely mild percentages
1:13:50that might not actually be delivering
1:13:52the uh results that that we want it to
1:13:55deliver. So we definitely increase the
1:13:57percentage.
1:13:59>> Okay. What do you think about topical
1:14:00glutathione? Rar please let's just skip
1:14:02this topic we have to it doesn't so it's
1:14:05a very big large size molecule it
1:14:06doesn't work when applied topically so
1:14:08does collagen creams these are all
1:14:10gimmicks um they want to again like I
1:14:11said market and make money out of
1:14:13anything the that's buzzing so oral
1:14:15glutath sorry topical glutathione
1:14:18collagen creams skin lifting firming
1:14:21creams which do not have the activives
1:14:23that actually work you know they're all
1:14:24marketing gimmicks they do not
1:14:26>> I don't believe in topical glutathione
1:14:27at all it's usually present with other
1:14:29skin lightening agents and I feel kic
1:14:31acid, alpha arbitin and licorice
1:14:33extracts and though they do the heavy
1:14:36lifting and then glutathione is just
1:14:37added for marketing purpose added for
1:14:39marketing
1:14:40>> because topical glutathion alone I don't
1:14:41think so it works at all
1:14:42>> it doesn't work at all it's just waste
1:14:44of money if if somebody is selling you a
1:14:47cream that has only topical glutathione
1:14:50>> please it's not going to work
1:14:51>> it's not going to work so a lot of
1:14:52people feel that skincare is a scam that
1:14:55you know you're applying so many
1:14:56products but you don't see results so
1:14:57why do you think people feel that
1:14:59skincare is a scam
1:15:01because they're not doing it the right
1:15:02way because they're not consistent with
1:15:04it. Right? A lot of times I'm sure your
1:15:06pat you also have patients who come and
1:15:07ask you but doc your skin is so good you
1:15:10know it's glowing it's flawless what do
1:15:11you do you think it's the result of one
1:15:14product or one um you know do you think
1:15:17it's result of one product or one
1:15:19particular thing you did instantly no
1:15:21it's years of consistent care in ter
1:15:24with in respective in respect to your
1:15:26skinincare products diet exercise your
1:15:29overall lifestyle it's a cumulative
1:15:32effect it's a cumulative consistent
1:15:34effect of all of these things that you
1:15:36in your late 30s have a glowing skin. I
1:15:39in my late 30s have a certain skin is
1:15:41not because of one product or one
1:15:43procedure that I got done yesterday. It
1:15:45is about the skincare that we've been
1:15:47doing for years and consistently. I
1:15:50don't think we have ever experimented a
1:15:52lot. We stuck to the basics. What's
1:15:54right for our skin? What's good for our
1:15:56skin concerns and we did it. That is
1:15:58number one. So first thing is consistent
1:16:00skin care which is holistic right your
1:16:03diet and sleep and all of that. Number
1:16:05two is I I always give this analogy
1:16:08Anchel to my patients that treat your
1:16:10skin like it's your home right like how
1:16:14you do sweeping and swapping every day
1:16:16is the is equating to your doing your
1:16:18skincare routine with products everyday
1:16:20at home that takes care of your
1:16:22superficial concerns the dirt whatever
1:16:24like you know the dust and all is taken
1:16:26care when you sweep and swap the opera
1:16:29stuff is taken care which is very
1:16:30important that you do your skincare
1:16:32routine every day it is taking care of
1:16:34your superficial concerns. Don't expect
1:16:36your skincare routine to do anything
1:16:38deep. Do not expect your skincare
1:16:39routine to treat your wrinkles, to treat
1:16:42your melasma fully, to treat your volume
1:16:44loss, under eye hollows. No, it is not
1:16:47the job of skincare routine to fix the
1:16:49deep concerns cuz it cannot penetrate to
1:16:51the depth and open pores and acne scars.
1:16:53Yeah. All of these things um cannot be
1:16:55treated with your skincare routine. Then
1:16:58now you're sweeping and swapping your
1:16:59house every day. Great. But you also
1:17:01have to do deep cleaning to take care of
1:17:03every deep new corners, spiderw webs,
1:17:05all of these things have to be taken
1:17:06care with the help of deep cleaning. And
1:17:09that is equating for you to get some
1:17:11clinical treatments in the clinic
1:17:13because your lasers, the deeper chemical
1:17:15peels are going to penetrate deep enough
1:17:17to address the concern that is sitting
1:17:19there where the product cannot
1:17:20penetrate. You want your hair to be gone
1:17:22permanently. What any product or
1:17:24anything can do when it cannot affect
1:17:26the root only your laser hair removal
1:17:28laser is going to affect the root kill
1:17:30it gradually and make you have make you
1:17:33be this hairless person which which is
1:17:35which is LH by the way is like the best
1:17:37gift I always talk about that it's the
1:17:39best gift you can give yourself
1:17:40especially for females so that when you
1:17:43have acne scars no product can help you
1:17:46but for your CO2 or a fractional laser
1:17:49when you have melasma something that
1:17:52penetrates to the dermal depth is what
1:17:53can take the pigmentation away from
1:17:55there. So you will need to do deep
1:17:57cleaning procedures for you to address
1:17:58the deeper concerns. So when a doctor is
1:18:01recommending you a treatment again it is
1:18:03in your best interest that you do it cuz
1:18:05you understand that the products in the
1:18:07in that you use at home are lower
1:18:09percentage larger molecular size cannot
1:18:12penetrate deep again for your own
1:18:13safety. So that is your cleaning
1:18:16everyday cleaning and then your deep
1:18:18cleaning. And then when you live in a
1:18:19same house for many many years, you
1:18:21would want to renovate it. You would
1:18:23want to make some changes to it. You
1:18:25want to make it look a certain way
1:18:26because you also change over a period of
1:18:28time, right? So these renovative or
1:18:30restoration procedures are like your
1:18:31fillers, toxins, threads, huo and all of
1:18:34these things. Are these mandatory? No.
1:18:36You can live in the same house for like
1:18:3850 or 60 years without doing any
1:18:40changes. Just keeping it neat and clean.
1:18:42So your daily cleaning and deep cleaning
1:18:44are very very important if you want to
1:18:46maintain health and certain level of
1:18:48aesthetics. But restorating restorations
1:18:52or procedures like fillers and toxins
1:18:54are important if you want to
1:18:57like at least pause the clock for a
1:18:58while or like just make the clock run
1:19:00slow. So it is very important that you
1:19:02look at like this as maintaining your
1:19:04house. Then probably you'll understand
1:19:07this is what my products can do. This is
1:19:08what the procedures can do. This is what
1:19:11the rejuvenating procedures can do and
1:19:13this is what my diet and sleep can do
1:19:16which is highly underestimated if your
1:19:18skin. So understanding what skincare can
1:19:20do and what skincare cannot do is very
1:19:21very important. Like I see a lot of
1:19:23patients who come to me with a lot of
1:19:25sagging and you know they have folds and
1:19:28the jowl is bothering them and they feel
1:19:30a skinare product can fix that and I
1:19:33think that is why we have to do you know
1:19:36podcasts like this and put out
1:19:37information as dermatologists of what we
1:19:39can correct and what we cannot with
1:19:41skincare. Skincare can only penetrate
1:19:44that much you know it cannot go into
1:19:46your dermis. It cannot go and into your
1:19:49subcutis tighten those structures. No,
1:19:51it's not going to. So that's why there's
1:19:53a place for everything and there's only
1:19:55that much skinincare can do. So I feel
1:19:57people who say skincare is a scam feel
1:19:59that skinare should correct everything
1:20:01from their open pores should disappear
1:20:03completely. Their acne scar should
1:20:04vanish. Their dark circles should
1:20:06disappear. The hollowing should go away
1:20:08which is not going to happen because
1:20:09there are certain things that are
1:20:11structural abnormalities. The structural
1:20:12abnormalities are not going to be
1:20:13changed. So I get patients in their 60s
1:20:16who come with prominent sagging asking
1:20:19for a skincare routine and I'm like you
1:20:20know that is not going to give you
1:20:21satisfaction if that is what is
1:20:23bothering. So understanding uh like we
1:20:25how we said before you know
1:20:26understanding your skincare goals what
1:20:28you're trying to achieve and how to get
1:20:29there is very important. We are not
1:20:31saying every saggy face needs to be
1:20:33lifted. Absolutely not. Like
1:20:35>> a lot of people like their lines. Uh you
1:20:37know a lot of people like their
1:20:38wrinkles. They like lines on the
1:20:40forehead. And of course you aged well.
1:20:43You you have lived you have smiled
1:20:45that's why you have those lines and if
1:20:47you embrace it great but don't expect
1:20:50skincare to correct all
1:20:51>> this absolutely thank you so much
1:20:54Priyanka this was great so just before
1:20:56you leave three things you want
1:20:57everybody to know about skincare
1:21:00>> that it doesn't have to be a circus that
1:21:03it doesn't have to be so elaborate and
1:21:04extreme stick to basics have so this is
1:21:07also something that I say have a
1:21:09short-term goal
1:21:12while having a long-term vision. You
1:21:14know, what are your short-term goal?
1:21:15Okay, you have this pigmentation, I want
1:21:16to fix it. I have this scar, I want to
1:21:17fix it or I have an under hole. I'm
1:21:19getting a filler done. But also have a
1:21:20long-term vision. How do you want to
1:21:22what what is it? You know, if you're
1:21:23getting a filler done, talk to your
1:21:25dermatologist. Everything about filler,
1:21:27you need to know what it is going to do
1:21:28in the short term, long-term, how many
1:21:30cases have you done, can you show me a
1:21:32real-time pictures? Even with hair
1:21:33transplantation, what understand
1:21:34everything about the procedure? Um, and
1:21:36then take an informed decision. So, have
1:21:38that short-term goal and have a
1:21:40long-term vision. Okay, now I'm doing
1:21:41all of these things, but I need to 20
1:21:44years down the line, 30 years down the
1:21:46line, I need to age well. So, what is it
1:21:47that I need to do? So, incorporate
1:21:49everything for that healthy skin. So, be
1:21:51very precise, knowledgeable about what
1:21:54you're doing. So, keep it very simple,
1:21:56but my favorite word that I keep telling
1:21:59in every video almost every consistency,
1:22:02consistency, consistency. It's not about
1:22:04skincare alone. Anything that you do
1:22:05consistently over a period of time is
1:22:07definitely going to fetch your results.
1:22:08It could be slow. It could be very very
1:22:11minimum in the beginning but when you
1:22:12keep sticking to it even like I said
1:22:14even if you have all the concerns if you
1:22:15don't have interest or affordable just
1:22:17stick to your basics of moisturizer and
1:22:19face wash you will still feel that your
1:22:20skin is getting better over a period of
1:22:22time so do minimum but be very
1:22:24consistent about it never underestimate
1:22:26the importance of holistic health very
1:22:30very important um stress is becoming a
1:22:33silent killer we only talking about
1:22:35looks and health of the skin which is
1:22:36not super detrimental let's be honest
1:22:38there but the stress is killing people
1:22:40literally very silently. So never
1:22:42underestimate the importance of holistic
1:22:44health. Um how muchever is your your
1:22:46hustle whatever it could be take some
1:22:47time out your skincare can will not take
1:22:49more than 2 to 3 minutes. Focus a little
1:22:51bit on your diet your stress do some
1:22:53practices to calm your stress down. Okay
1:22:55why is a dermatologist saying all this?
1:22:57People say this you know it's ridiculous
1:22:58when people say why is a dermatologist
1:22:59talking about stress? Why is the
1:23:00dermatologist talking about food? Hello
1:23:02cuz your body is one big unit with
1:23:04multiple subs. It's all related. So if
1:23:06you are stressed your cortisol is going
1:23:07to go up your inflammation is going to
1:23:09go up. Your acne is soriasis every
1:23:11single thing that your body's
1:23:13genetically predisposed to is going to
1:23:15show up. So it is an integral part of
1:23:17your health. Everything is interrelated.
1:23:20So one keep it simple. Be consistent.
1:23:23Focus on holistic health
1:23:25>> is all I can say.
1:23:26>> Okay. Thank you so much.
1:23:28>> Thank you. It was wonderful. It was just
1:23:30like two friends chatting.
1:23:32>> Thank you.
1:23:33>> Thank you. I hope you found this podcast
1:23:35useful. If you like such content, do
1:23:37follow us on our Instagram handle
1:23:39decoding health with Dr. Achel and also
1:23:41my main page Dr. Achel MD where I post
1:23:44skin related content daily. Thank you
1:23:47for watching.

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