Simulate a Climbing Session on a Hangboard | Home Hangboarding Pt. 2 — Transcript

Full transcript

1. 0:00what's up everyone welcome into the
2. 0:02intermediate and advanced hang board
3. 0:04workout that we're going to do if you're
4. 0:06newer to hang boarding and you've come
5. 0:09here by mistake and go ahead and find in
6. 0:11the show notes the link to our
7. 0:12introductory hang board protocol this is
8. 0:15a hanging board workout so we're gonna
9. 0:17we could be incorporating some core and
10. 0:19some push in between our rests and we're
11. 0:21gonna be incorporating some stretches
12. 0:23during our max hang protocols we're
13. 0:25gonna show you how to take this from and
14. 0:27intermediate to an advanced program and
15. 0:30the goal of this is to be a protocol
16. 0:32that you can use as like a full climbing
17. 0:34session replacement so we'll work
18. 0:36through a warm-up we'll get the tissue
19. 0:38through its max hang and then we'll even
20. 0:40do a little bit of a burnout at the end
21. 0:42[Music]
22. 0:53all right so I've said this before but
23. 0:55this is definitely one of those times
24. 0:57you're gonna check out the show notes or
25. 0:58in this case the websites even better
26. 1:00because we'll have like a full Excel
27. 1:02layout with all these tips and it has
28. 1:05everything broken down with the hold
29. 1:07size the length of breaks etc so be sure
30. 1:09to read all those notes very carefully
31. 1:11before you go ahead and try this out on
32. 1:13your own so one of the most important
33. 1:15factors is obviously getting a good
34. 1:16warm-up in so we'll start with just a
35. 1:18little bit of foam rolling you can do
36. 1:20some tendon gliding as well and then
37. 1:22we'll do some push-ups and pull-ups but
38. 1:23the foam rolling will do first so I
39. 1:25always like to just go along the back
40. 1:27keep your head supported with your hands
41. 1:30the reason we want to do this foam
42. 1:33rolling is to you know we're gonna be in
43. 1:35this extended position for a while so
44. 1:37it's good to start working on the
45. 1:39extensibility of our spine make sure
46. 1:41we're not too tight there so you can
47. 1:43also work on those reaches overhead you
48. 1:46can also go to your side a little bit
49. 1:48and start to get on the lats just kind
50. 1:51of get everything with Lucinda
51. 1:54[Music]
52. 2:13[Applause]
53. 2:15okay so you guys are gonna hear me say
54. 2:17effort level a bunch like to kind of
55. 2:19guide these different holds that we do
56. 2:20so effort level is basically your margin
57. 2:23of error so if I say it's a 10 second
58. 2:25hold plus or minus three seconds or the
59. 2:28effort level that basically means if
60. 2:30you're within like the window of 7 to 13
61. 2:33seconds then you're doing okay if you
62. 2:36fall outside of that window well you're
63. 2:38at like five seconds and you fail then
64. 2:40it's too hard respect your body make it
65. 2:42a little bit easier if on the other side
66. 2:44again 10 seconds plus or minus three if
67. 2:47you're falling like you're feeling at 15
68. 2:48to 16 seconds then it may be a little
69. 2:51too easy you may need to like go to a
70. 2:53smaller ledge or increase the weight
71. 2:55okay so round one for round one it's
72. 2:58gonna be a longer hole that's gonna be a
73. 2:5930 second hold + 4 - like five to ten
74. 3:02seconds you have a larger window on this
75. 3:04you're gonna use a medium sized hold
76. 3:06which will allow you to go into the open
77. 3:08hand position and we're gonna do just
78. 3:10two sets of this okay this is kind of
79. 3:12getting still into our warm-up for the
80. 3:13rest of our holds so we'll get right
81. 3:15into it as you do this just make sure
82. 3:17you're not dropping down here either
83. 3:20think about just engaging your shoulders
84. 3:22keeping them down and back or keeping
85. 3:24your chest kind of forward and up it's
86. 3:26also important don't look up at the hold
87. 3:29just keep your head in a neutral
88. 3:30position
89. 3:32[Music]
90. 3:48all right so for round two we're gonna
91. 3:50do these single arm recruitment hangs
92. 3:52now this is gonna be done in a half
93. 3:55crank position with one arm each
94. 3:58repetition is about five seconds long
95. 4:00and you're gonna do multiple repetitions
96. 4:03about four to five repetitions of it
97. 4:05well do three sets of this one it's
98. 4:07gonna be done on a smaller ledge all
99. 4:09right so the reason for these
100. 4:10recruitment hangs is essentially to kind
101. 4:13of get like our pulley systems warmed up
102. 4:15it's using basically like your max
103. 4:18effort as tolerated to so it's really
104. 4:20awesome hold to like not only get warmed
105. 4:22up but continue like getting that neural
106. 4:24network activated so we're ready when we
107. 4:27do our harder hangs later this is great
108. 4:30because it's also basically you pick the
109. 4:33difficulty level so as I mentioned
110. 4:35earlier it's over five seconds so you'll
111. 4:37get into you're like half cramp position
112. 4:39with one hand and you're pulling like
113. 4:42you're trying to pull yourself off the
114. 4:43ground or you're pulling the board down
115. 4:45to you so don't start off as hard as you
116. 4:48can start just by giving it like that
117. 4:51little bit of effort and then your body
118. 4:53will let you know how much effort you
119. 4:55can actually tolerate you're not trying
120. 4:57to like go into a single arm hang you're
121. 5:00trying to do be on a smaller left ledge
122. 5:02that will not allow you to do that with
123. 5:05each rep in each set you'll notice
124. 5:07you'll be able to pull a little bit
125. 5:08harder and harder but you should never
126. 5:10be able to pull hard enough where you
127. 5:11can lift off the ground if you're just
128. 5:13that strong and you can you might need
129. 5:15to go to a slightly smaller ledge again
130. 5:17just be careful cuz you're still kind of
131. 5:19getting your your pulleys warmed up
132. 5:22[Music]
133. 5:41all right so round three this is
134. 5:43essentially our third and kind of final
135. 5:45like warm-up round for our hangs the
136. 5:47first round was helping to get like our
137. 5:49shoulders in the right position and kind
138. 5:51of get used to it while lightly warming
139. 5:52up our hands the second one was getting
140. 5:54the like the neurosystem warmed up and
141. 5:56ready for some of those now another
142. 5:59component that we need is to get our
143. 6:00flexor digitorum profundus
144. 6:01that like deep muscle that runs out to
145. 6:04the fingertips warmed up before we go
146. 6:06into like a heavier cramp position so
147. 6:08we're gonna do that with a sub Mac
148. 6:10saying we're gonna be adding a
149. 6:12percentage of body weight and we're be
150. 6:14holding for 20 seconds the margin of
151. 6:17error or the effort level for this will
152. 6:19be 5 seconds so essentially a window
153. 6:21will be 15 to 25 seconds on it we're
154. 6:24gonna do a medium-sized hold on this
155. 6:27with both hands well do three sets of it
156. 6:29with again a minute and a half rest in
157. 6:32between all right so we're gonna use
158. 6:34about 15 to 25% body weight on this get
159. 6:40it set up so we're ready to rock and
160. 6:43then we'll go to that kind of medium to
161. 6:47large hold and we'll do our 20 second
162. 6:50hang now this would be really important
163. 6:52and you know make sure we have good
164. 6:53control with our shoulders before we go
165. 6:55into our next level now when you're
166. 6:57using weight especially for the first
167. 6:59time you want to make sure that you
168. 7:01don't like going to jump into the hold
169. 7:03because what you don't want to do is
170. 7:04have the weight kind of swinging or your
171. 7:06legs swinging when you settle into it so
172. 7:08you want to load that weight nicely so
173. 7:10you settle in and you don't have that
174. 7:12momentum
175. 7:14[Music]
176. 7:26all right so for round 4 this is gonna
177. 7:29be for both the intermediate and the
178. 7:30advanced protocol this is gonna be our
179. 7:32max hang so we got all the warm up in
180. 7:35that we need we're gonna get ready for
181. 7:37those Max hangs we're gonna do four sets
182. 7:40of this but if you're if it's the first
183. 7:42time you do it I'd probably just stick
184. 7:43to three as we go through this we want
185. 7:46to make sure that our whole time is ten
186. 7:48seconds with the margin of error for
187. 7:50three so you know that window of 7 to 13
188. 7:53seconds we're gonna add body weight you
189. 7:55know anywhere from like 25 to 50 percent
190. 7:58this protocol like these max things has
191. 8:01been really well done and researched by
192. 8:02Ava Lopez they recommend you know no
193. 8:05more than the same thing about 50 to 60
194. 8:07percent so if you can do that much
195. 8:10weight with your max things you got to
196. 8:11go to a little bit of a smaller ledge
197. 8:13and the most important part is that
198. 8:15three minute rest now if you're doing
199. 8:18this and you feel like you need a longer
200. 8:19break that's fine
201. 8:20up to a five minute rest period is fine
202. 8:22but absolutely rest for at least three
203. 8:25minutes it's gonna help you stay safer
204. 8:27as you go through these hangs you don't
205. 8:29want to just kind of like jump into it
206. 8:30and swing the weight around you want to
207. 8:32start to carefully load in make sure you
208. 8:34feel comfortable and then lock the
209. 8:37shoulders get them nice and secure and
210. 8:39then lifts you're not swinging good so I
211. 8:43hit 13 seconds there I felt like I maybe
212. 8:45could have gone a little bit longer but
213. 8:47again that was my first set I'm gonna
214. 8:51choose to go through this four times so
215. 8:53I'm gonna judge whether I'm gonna
216. 8:55increase my weight or not based on my
217. 8:57fourth set if all of a sudden like you
218. 9:00know the second set it's been a 13 the
219. 9:02third set it's 10 on the fourth set it's
220. 9:05at like seven I'm probably not I can
221. 9:07increase this weight the next time I do
222. 9:08it I want to respect that effort level
223. 9:11and I want to stay as close to that
224. 9:13ten-second window as I can go through
225. 9:15the whole thing before you make that two
226. 9:18[Music]
227. 9:37[Applause]
228. 9:41[Music]
229. 9:58all right so you're done with your Max
230. 10:01hangs your fingers are feeling pretty
231. 10:03good but they're not quite like as
232. 10:05pumped as you want them to be so what I
233. 10:08would recommend is for that like fifth
234. 10:10round to just kind of be like some pull
235. 10:12up variations so you can go through and
236. 10:15just get some different holds if you're
237. 10:17like an intermediate level like here I'm
238. 10:19just going to do a three finger like
239. 10:21kind of pull up with it you can do some
240. 10:23offset ones where you're like on more of
241. 10:25a jug on one and a smaller on the other
242. 10:28and you can just do some pull up
243. 10:30variations that way you kind of get like
244. 10:33what the goal of this all is is to have
245. 10:35that kind of burn out that world
246. 10:37climbing session feeling if your fingers
247. 10:40are feeling like fine after and you want
248. 10:43to do the advanced version the advanced
249. 10:45burnout is going to be intermittent
250. 10:47hangs all right so for round five we'll
251. 10:52leave our shirts on we're gonna do these
252. 10:54intermittent hangs of those repeaters
253. 10:56the reason we're doing this is because
254. 10:58we're gonna add it in in a style that's
255. 11:01functional to training with a little bit
256. 11:03of that like recruitment / impact hold
257. 11:06so the impact hold we're gonna do is
258. 11:08gonna be closer to climbing because what
259. 11:11we're gonna do is we're not gonna worry
260. 11:12about like the perfect position every
261. 11:13time we're gonna go do like a small to
262. 11:16medium ledge we'll have no weight and
263. 11:18you can just vary the difficulty by the
264. 11:20depth of your edge the on time for the
265. 11:23hold is going to be seven seconds the
266. 11:25off is going to be three if you prefer
267. 11:27the ten and five protocol that's fine as
268. 11:30well so I'm not trying to like get the
269. 11:32perfect grip I'll show you what I mean
270. 11:34by that next one I'm not gonna try and
271. 11:36like okay is it right here okay all
272. 11:39right let's go again you know I'm not
273. 11:41gonna try and worry about that absolute
274. 11:42perfect grip since I know I can do this
275. 11:44it's not causing pain after the first
276. 11:46one I want to have that impact so see
277. 11:49that one wasn't perfect I kind of
278. 11:51slipped a little bit and I'm just gonna
279. 11:52kind of hold and if I let go early
280. 11:54that's fine that's the point because
281. 11:57oftentimes in climbing we're not going
282. 11:59to hit it absolutely perfect
283. 12:01so using that setup where you you hover
284. 12:04over just a little bit and you don't
285. 12:05jump on to it you're not
286. 12:07trying to load all your bodyweight like
287. 12:08a crazy person but you train that body
288. 12:11you train that impact your body will be
289. 12:14more like prepared when we can go
290. 12:16climbing in because you're replicating
291. 12:17and climbing now with this I recommend
292. 12:31again definitely you have to give it at
293. 12:34least 48 hours of rest
294. 12:35I recommend probably even up to 72 no
295. 12:39more than three times a week if you're
296. 12:41doing all this remember the best program
297. 12:44is one that you can do safely so that
298. 12:46you can keep training to get stronger
299. 12:48not where you just overdo it hurt
300. 12:50yourself and have to wait and recover
301. 12:52from another injury well I hope you guys
302. 12:54loved this routine this has been done
303. 12:57with not my work solely but for the
304. 12:59works of a lot of people out there like
305. 13:01dr. tyler nelson and dr. ava lopez
306. 13:04they've done a lot of research with this
307. 13:06but just remember to work it in safely
308. 13:09with your program right things out plan
309. 13:11it ahead so you know how to fit in
310. 13:12appropriately and until next time train
311. 13:15climbs and repeat
312. 13:17[Music]
313. 13:23okay hope you guys remember train smart
314. 13:29train safe I'll hurt yourself don't be a
315. 13:32big ol Gumby and break yourself
316. 13:35so I hope you guys enjoy this and we'll
317. 13:38start with round 1 take to the max but
318. 13:45no that's me good I'm gonna say that cuz
319. 13:46I wanted to be smart right alright well
320. 13:49stay smart I want us to taste someone
321. 13:52right about 25% for sonnet per sound /
322. 13:56sound it and person and pay attention to
323. 13:59how you feeling and then yeah I was
324. 14:02gonna say it and I stopped myself oh hey
325. 14:09you're still here Jason they're still
326. 14:11watching oh yeah dude say something cool
327. 14:16so they like the videos and subscribe
328. 14:18for more awesome content like and
329. 14:23subscribe for more super sweet vids yah
330. 14:27so
331. 14:28I was pretty