Sichuan Chili Oil: the Complete Guide — Transcript
Full transcript
- 0:00So French cuisine it has its mother sauces, and Sichuan cuisine it has… chili oils. They’re in
- 0:07the dipping sauces, they’re the base of a most of their cold salads, they’re used as a finishing
- 0:13oil, as instant stir fry base, and can really be seen everywhere from noodles to soups to noodle
- 0:20in soup. But something you might not know is that there’s not just one Sichuan chili oil,
- 0:27there’s more than one, and today what we wanted to do was teach you all of them.
- 0:34But I guess before we do that, I should be upfront that a lot like Escoffier’s mother sauces,
- 0:42some of these are definitely more of a restaurant thing. Like… just like how of these six you
- 0:49probably only make a bechamel, a Sichuan home cook would likely only make one of these, maybe two,
- 0:57or I mean equally just buy some from their local market. So some of these,
- 1:04they can get a little intense and maybe they might not make sense in the end for your kitchen,
- 1:10but the reason to at least try is that really, if you use one of these very good homemade chili
- 1:17oils, especially combined with some very good homemade Chinese stock... you will make the best
- 1:24Sichuan food you’ve ever cooked in your life. Like… together with this, we penned a bunch of
- 1:30written recipes for how you can use them of all up, and testing those I was frankly blown away
- 1:38again and again by the sheer quality of food that was coming out of my wok. And because
- 1:43most of these also keep really quite well, if you love Sichuan food, I think it’s worth exploring.
- 1:51So, in this video, we’ll cover – first,
- 1:54the basic materials and how to source proper ingredients for this internationally… because,
- 2:01a wild stab in the dark, I’m gunna guess that you probably don’t exactly live in Chengdu. Then,
- 2:06we’ll show you seven oils: six seen in a restaurant setting, and one little jog to show
- 2:13you how a homecook might make theirs. For each one, we’ll teach you the basics of how its used,
- 2:19and then finally finish it all with how they can be seasoned and combined to form dips and sauces.
- 2:25Now… the core of any chili oil is, chilis and oil. Like historical recipes for chili oil in Sichuan,
- 2:36a lot of them are basically chili flakes, oil, and… that’s pretty much it. Nowadays you see a
- 2:43lot of aromatics in the mix, spices in the mix… but if your chilis aren’t delicious,
- 2:49if your oil isn’t delicious, it’s not going to be a good chili oil.
- 2:54Now for the peppers, a lot of Sichuan chefs lean on a blend. Generally speaking,
- 2:59this is gunna be Zidantou bullet chili for fragrance, Erjingtiao two vixen chili for color,
- 3:05and Xiaomila millet chili for heat. These three are local cultivars that’re really quite difficult
- 3:11to find outside of China, but that’s okay. You don’t need this specific chili pepper,
- 3:17you need to understand the logic of why it was selected – so let’s start with ‘fragrance’.
- 3:23Now ‘fragrant’ I think can be kind of abstract in English, and in American English is often
- 3:29associated with subtle flavors, the sort that you find in wine, fine dining, that kind of thing.
- 3:35So like, pop quiz - is this chili pepper a ‘fragrant’ one? What about this one? If you’re
- 3:43not sure, if ‘chili fragrance’ is something a little confusing to you.. smell is obviously
- 3:49connected to taste, so think in terms of taste. At the base of your chili oil, you want the best
- 3:57tasting, best quality dried red chili that you have available to you – this will be your
- 4:03workhorse chili pepper. Ideally, your dried chili should be fresh enough that it’s still somewhat
- 4:09pliable. For me, personally, I really like using the aforementioned Erjingtiao Two Vixen chili – I
- 4:22think that it’s a great chili, and when we lived in Thailand, we’d actually ship batches down to
- 4:25Bangkok. Now, that’s obviously not exactly not feasible when I’m in the USA, but that’s also
- 4:33okay because America has access to some fantastic chilis in the form of Mexican peppers. You don’t
- 4:43need to import from the other side of the world, Guajillo is an excellent chili and I think it
- 4:50works perfectly great for Sichuan food. And while I’ve never been to Europe, the same logic applies
- 4:58– maybe it’s from Hungary, or Turkey, or Korea, or Calabria… start with quality. Some of these
- 5:06chilis might be milder than Sichuan chilis, but that’s also completely fine, you can compensate.
- 5:13Because… making a chili oil spicier, it really isn’t rocket science.
- 5:19You cut your blend with enough of a spicy chili to get the oil up to your personal tolerance
- 5:25level – the oil should be spicy enough to be uncomfortable if you ate it directly with a spoon.
- 5:35Sichuan chefs use Xiaomila millet chili for this function, and that’s what we’ll
- 5:40use today as well. In Thailand, I would use Dried Thai Bird’s eye, in the US,
- 5:46I might reach for something like this… but like, I dunno… worst comes to worst, they do sell dried
- 5:55Carolina Reapers online, you can make this work. Your quality demands will be much, much lower here
- 6:03than with your workhorse chili – just don’t be gross and add something like an extract.
- 6:09And then… for color? It’s also not rocket science. There are certain cultivars of chili out there
- 6:15that are extremely extremely red, some of them practically neon. Often, these ones tend to be
- 6:22pretty mild… you maybe can think of something like a Korean gochugaru. In Sichuan they’re spoiled,
- 6:29they actually use Erjingtiao for this function… for ease of internation replication… today we’re
- 6:39using a Kashmiri chili from Xinjiang. In Thailand, what I’d do is use something that
- 6:45they call big chili, it’s the stuff that makes their Nam Prik Pao chili jam... and in the US, I
- 6:51like gochugaru. For this function, you might even get away with using a good quality sweet paprika,
- 6:59just don’t be gross and use food coloring. Which then brings us to the oil. Now in
- 7:06Sichuan for a good chili oil there is no choice but… caiziyou – an unprocessed,
- 7:15expeller pressed rapeseed oil made from a Chinese cultivar called semi-winter rape.
- 7:21The oil has a number of advantages – first, it’s not a processed neutral oil, the stuff actually
- 7:28tastes really good; second, it’s still liquid at room temperature, but third, at the same
- 7:36time it’s also quite viscous. The thickness of it is perfect for cold dishes and other applications
- 7:42where you really want the oil to cling to both the ingredient and, also, your mouth.
- 7:47Unfortunately however, Caiziyou is infamously brutally difficult to find outside of China,
- 7:54even if you’re in Vancouver. So internationally, the very best substitute would be an Indian
- 8:00Mustard Seed oil. When buying, in the US, that oil is sold with the label ‘for external use
- 8:08only’… it’s a long story, the FDA slapped it on because of “health concerns” from back in the 50s,
- 8:14so… don’t narc on your Indian grocer, if anyone asks it’s all for your traditional Bengali
- 8:21massage. Besides that, at Chinese grocers in the west you can often find something
- 8:26like this – this an unprocessed peanut oil, it's common in Cantonese cooking, smells like peanuts,
- 8:33tastes great, the flavor really works with chili but it unfortunately doesn’t
- 8:39have that same caiziyou thickness. So… because of that, for this video something
- 8:45that we also tried testing, and surprisingly really worked, was the thick unprocessed oil that
- 8:49is traditional to the west: we tried this bottle of olive. my nose and brain was really confused
- 8:58when making it, but interestingly it does actually work in the end. I should emphasize though that
- 9:08olive would not be appropriate as a general Sichuan cooking oil – this only works
- 9:13because we’re getting it up past smoke point, infusing it with these really strong flavors,
- 9:18and importantly – importantly - letting that sit for at least overnight, which we’ll get to later.
- 9:25So scout out your specialty grocers,
- 9:27see what’s online, and make your selections. And then now, let’s make some chili oil.
- 9:36Hongyou
- 9:36First up, the mainstay, the classic – hongyou, red Sichuan chili oil. Our mix today was 60
- 9:43grams erjingtiao chili as our workhorse, 10 grams xiaomila millet chili for heat, and 30 grams of
- 9:50Xinjiang Kashmiri chili. Our Xinjiang today is in powder form, it’s not ideal but it will be okay,
- 9:57and it gives us a chance to show you how to handle powders a bit later on. But… the erjingtiao and
- 10:03the spicy chili we’ll first snip into sections, and of course toss the stems. Then, in a wok, over
- 10:10a medium-low flame add in about a tablespoon of oil and begin to fry your dried chilis. How long
- 10:16this will take will depend on how fresh your dried chilis are – what you’re looking for is for the
- 10:22chilis to’ve deepened in color, and feel obviously hard and solid if you poured them against
- 10:27something like a spider. To get to that point, for me today, this was about four minutes of frying.
- 10:33Then just jiggle out some of the excess seeds, let the chilis cool down a touch and
- 10:37then transfer over to a mortar. We’ll then pound this into a fine flake – you can use a blender
- 10:44or food processor for this if you want, but I personally prefer the mortar. Because sometimes
- 10:50with processors, the rapidity of the movement of the blades can risk continuing to cook the chili
- 10:58past done, so be careful not to overdo it if going that route. But either way,
- 11:04once you’re looking at a flake that’s roughly the same size as a sesame seed, remove and reserve.
- 11:11Then, aromatics. Now we should say again that not all cooks reach for these, and historically less
- 11:17so, but today we’ll be infusing practically all of our chili oils with a half an onion,
- 11:22finely sliced; 2-3 inches of ginger, good and smashed, and 5 scallions, roughly sliced. For
- 11:29the spices then, again, also optional so really any of these that you can’t find just skip them.
- 11:37Ours was two star anise, one tablespoon Sichuan peppercorn, three dried bay leaves, one peeled
- 11:43Chinese black cardamom, 3 slices sand ginger, a third a cinnamon stick, and a half teaspoon fennel
- 11:49seed. Wet it with a little baijiu liquor or vodka to avoid scorching, and now we can make our oil.
- 11:57So. To a wok or pot toss in two cups of caiziyou or whatever your delicious oil of choice was.
- 12:04Then, add in the aromatics and swap your flame to medium/medium high. Let the aromatics fry and
- 12:10infuse into the oil, and after about ten minutes of that, add in your spice mix. Once your onion
- 12:16is beginning to get nice and golden brown, about five to eight minutes more… strain, and of course
- 12:22press that all really well to get every last drop. Then, add a tablespoon half of sesame seeds in
- 12:28with your chili flake, and heat your strained flavored oil up until it’s beginning to smoke,
- 12:34or about 190 celcius. Then just shut off the heat, and the scoop about a third of a cup of oil from
- 12:40the wok into the flake, and mix that well. At this point, we can add our colorful powder in,
- 12:47reason being that with very hot oils fine powders sometimes kinda like to
- 12:51scorch on you. Then wait until the oil hits about 150-ish, and half of it in,
- 12:57stirring well. And then finally, wait until it cools down to about 80C, mix that in, and cover.
- 13:05This three stage process is sometimes referred to as ‘yi xiang, er hong, san la’, and in my opinion
- 13:12the primary benefit of it is that the very hot 190 degree oil really can bring out the fragrance of
- 13:19the chili… but you do have to be super careful with the quantity and stir immediately, so that
- 13:25things don’t scorch. Then as to why then 150, then 80, uh… frankly I don’t have a fantastic mental
- 13:35model for you… but this all has been a little bit of work already, and the move seems to work, and
- 13:40I’m personally a believer that if the tradition’s not broke there’s no need to overthink it.
- 13:46But either way then this oil will need to sit, covered for at least 24 hours and up to 48 before
- 13:51you use it. Because at first if you taste it it might taste a touch scorched, don’t panic,
- 13:59check back on it the next day. For whatever reason time seems to really paper over and mellow out any
- 14:05bitter notes these oils have. And so after that time you can jar it up, and then this jar should
- 14:12last you about three months – just be really careful not to get any drops of water inside,
- 14:18and storing in the fridge can also help. Now as to how to use the stuff, the question
- 14:25might be a little more how you can’t use it – I mean, you see it in liangban cold dishes,
- 14:31noodle dishes, wontons, soaked dishes like boboji, again, even as a finishing oil for
- 14:36a stir fry. So I think this one is pretty self explanatory, just find some Sichuan
- 14:42recipes online that you want to make and then use the thing. If you do happen to be stuck, we
- 14:48will also have a little Sichuan cold dish formula for you down though in the linked Substack post.
- 14:54But when you’re using it, you will have two options – just chili oil or chili
- 15:00oil with sediment. The way I learned this was that if you were just using the oil it
- 15:07was called ‘hongyou’ or ‘red oil’ and that if you included the chili sediment it was
- 15:13called ‘youlazi’ or ‘cooked oil chili’. I’ve since learned that I was wrong,
- 15:20linguistically in Sichuan dialect it’s not that clear, people use both words to refer to both,
- 15:27and youlazi’s maybe just a little more colloquial. But the framework I think can
- 15:33still be helpful. I personally associate the sediment a lot with things like street food,
- 15:39homecooking… and if you use just the oil, it’s going to be a little more smooth,
- 15:45a little less spicy, a little more elegant. Now if you’ll notice, our previous chili oil
- 15:53didn’t really include Sichuan peppercorns. Like, it did a little bit in the spice mix,
- 15:58but it was just to infuse a little floralness… definitely would not be enough to constitute one
- 16:04of the most famous flavors around the world for Sichuan cuisine: Mala, or numbing spicy.
- 16:12So… to incorporate Sichuan peppercorn in a chili oil you have a couple options. One
- 16:17route is just to deep fry a whole bunch of peppercorns in the oil,
- 16:21and then keep them in said the chili oil to continue to infuse over time.
- 16:26And that’s probably what I personally prefer, but downside of that approach is that if you’re
- 16:31using the sediment of the oil it is going to have a bunch of whole Sichuan peppercorns in
- 16:36it… and given that ‘surprise Sichuan peppercorn’ is probably one of the most common food related
- 16:42complaints among expats and travelers to China, today we decided on powder.
- 16:49And so to make some, we’ll first toast a mix of red and green Sichuan peppercorn,
- 16:5412 grams red for flavor, 8 grams green for numbing… and just use all red if you can’t
- 16:59get green. Then just toast those in a dry wok over a medium-low flame for about three minutes,
- 17:05or until the peppercorns can leave little oil splotches on the side of the wok. Then,
- 17:10we’ll pound those in our mortar… again, you can totally use a spice grinder for this,
- 17:15I just personally like to keep mine a little on the coarse side.
- 17:19Then for the chilis, we’ll also adjust our mix. We’ll cut the Xinjiang chili, and instead use
- 17:2670 grams of our workhorse erjingtiao and 30 grams of our spicy xiaomila. Fry them just like before,
- 17:33pound or grind them just like before, and then infuse two cups oil with aromatics and spices
- 17:39just like before. But then, after you strain, add about a half shot of baijiu liquor or vodka
- 17:46in with the Sichuan pepper powder to wet it well – this helps prevent the powder from scorching.
- 17:52Then just do the same move – 1/3 of a cup of smoking hot oil, mixed very well… and then
- 17:58after that you can transfer the Sichuan pepper. Then again, do half the oil at 150, the remaining
- 18:04at 80… and then cover and wait at least 24 hours. The end result after that time should be an oil
- 18:11that’s very spicy and very numbing. Now for me, personally, I usually wouldn’t make something
- 18:17like this at home because personally I prefer controlling the chili oil and the numbingness
- 18:23separately. For me, I would rather have a batch of red oil that can be used across
- 18:29a number of different flavors and then toast and grind Sichuan peppercorn for when I want
- 18:34something Mala. But this oil can undeniably be extremely useful in a restaurant context,
- 18:41as if you have a lot of Mala dishes, it’s much easier to reach for a Mala chili oil.
- 18:48One of the most obvious examples might be something like Malatang, which is a concept
- 18:53you see across China these days. What you do is you grab whatever ingredients you want, they’ll
- 19:01cook it in a thin soup, season, and top with this kind of Mala chili oil. In Sichuan proper,
- 19:09at the liangban cold dish stands they’ll often have two oils that they reach for,
- 19:14blending a red chili oil with a mala chili oil to arrive at the spicy level that the customer wants.
- 19:22So… this brings us to what would actually be different if this you were
- 19:27looking at something produced by a Sichuan family instead of a Sichuan restaurant.
- 19:31Now first, a family probably isn’t going to be frying and grinding their own chilis – instead,
- 19:39getting flakes from the market is often the move. But before you throw that previous
- 19:43recipe in the dustbin, you do need to understand that chili flakes at a Sichuan market are going
- 19:49to be much fresher, much higher quality than that random bag that’s been sitting on your
- 19:54supermarket shelf for months. At some markets in Southwest China they even have these really
- 19:59cool steampunk-looking contraptions and the chilis are literally pounded right there in
- 20:05front of you. And further, most shops also tend to have different chili flakes with different
- 20:11profiles from different cultivars, and then people mix and match to their own tastes.
- 20:17So if you have something similar where you live, starting with flakes is a no
- 20:25brainer. But in my personal experience… and this isn’t shade on western food,
- 20:30there’s some great ingredients in North America too… but supermarket available
- 20:34chili flakes for me at least, don’t get me where I want to go. So I would personally
- 20:41still recommend frying and grinding that workhorse pepper at the very least.
- 20:46Then second, while different families are different, usually you see a much more
- 20:51limited selection of aromatics and spices than you do in profession kitchens - reason being that
- 20:58home kitchens are usually affording much better caiziyou than they use outside. Restaurant oil
- 21:03in China tends to be a lower grade than what’s at the supermarket, and some restaurants also
- 21:09cut their caiziyou with a cheap neutral or even just use a cheap neutral straight up.
- 21:15And the less flavorful your oil is, the heavier with aromatics and spices you’ll want to go.
- 21:21So especially if you can source Caiziyou or Indian Mustard Seed oil,
- 21:25I think you can feel to totally free cut back. In this batch my infusion was with one dacong,
- 21:32English name Welsh Onion, and three inches of ginger… together with solely a tablespoon
- 21:38of red Sichuan peppercorn spice wise. But if you were working off of a peanut oil, or an olive oil,
- 21:42or a neutral oil… I would personally still recommend the full spate to help compensate.
- 21:48But either way, sizzle over a bit at 190,
- 21:51half at 150, and the remainder at a cool 80, cover, and then… jar it up.
- 21:57Laoyou
- 21:58So. Now we’ve got the four chili oils that really are more of a restaurant thing,
- 22:03but the most common among them is probably laoyou, or old oil.
- 22:09The name’s likely derived from laoyou huoguo, that is,
- 22:12Chongqing hotpot, and they do share a number of similarities. Laoyou can be a little simpler,
- 22:19but the primary difference with a hotpot base is that this one is unseasoned and it uses
- 22:25caiziyou instead of beef tallow. The stuff is sometimes called ‘hot dish’ chili oil,
- 22:31because it can be used as an instant base to start off various stir-fries.
- 22:36And like hotpot base, instead of chili powder it does start with a product called ciba or
- 22:42pounded chili. This stuff is made by soaking 60 grams of your workhorse chili in with hot,
- 22:47boiled water for 45 minutes… and cut that with a spicy chili if you wanted something spicier.
- 22:54Then after that time, you’ll strain well, add it to a mortar,
- 22:57and I personally like to unconventionally also add a ¼ tsp of salt and a clove of garlic to
- 23:03help the chilis break down and emulsify. Not standard practice, full disclosure,
- 23:08and you can also use a food processor here… but either way, you’re looking for something pasty.
- 23:16Then, in addition to using pounded chili paste, the other big similarity is that this is also
- 23:21using two tablespoons of douchi, Chinese fermented black soybeans, minced, soaked with a little
- 23:27liquor… and a quarter cup of Pixian doubanjiang, Sichuan chili bean paste, also minced.
- 23:34The aromatics we did opt for a bit of a fuller mix for this one, including a large stalk of
- 23:40Chinese celery and two cilantros as well. We just enjoy those with this specific flavor,
- 23:45but they’re both optional and can also be added to the other oils if you wanted. Then spices in
- 23:52same at before, another ten minutes, and because those leafy herbs do like to drink a little oil,
- 23:57I’ll supplement this with two extra tablespoons of caiziyou. Then, add the ciba chili paste into the
- 24:04oil, and begin to slowly fry that over a medium low flame. We’re looking for the chili to expel
- 24:10its moisture, stain the oil, and morph into a lighter almost orange hue. This will take a bit,
- 24:17about fifteen minutes… but once it’s at that point, strain and reserve. Then add in the
- 24:23minced Pixian doubanjiang, and over a low flame begin to fry that until that’s dry.
- 24:28After three minutes or so, go in with the minced douchi, and once the liquor there has evaporated,
- 24:34roughly two minutes more, shut off the heat. Return the fried chili back to the wok, mix well,
- 24:41and then let that all come back down to room temperature. Transfer, and then let it sit.
- 24:47Now, because this stuff is already saltier, in a restaurant context, it can function as sort of an
- 24:55‘instant’ stir fry or soup base. For the size of a normal dish you could start the thing with about a
- 25:01tablespoon, tablespoon half of the oil together with all the chunky bits… and optionally finish
- 25:07with a touch of the oil sans sediment. Dishes that would be appropriate for this kind of treatment
- 25:14might be stuff like Jiachang Tofu, Twice Cooked Pork, and maybe even some varieties of Mapo Tofu.
- 25:20Then the last three, same category – that is tasty ways you can streamline stuff
- 25:27in a commercial setting. These three are a little less common than laoyou,
- 25:31but they can be useful and they unquestionably are also quite delicious.
- 25:36Hu Lajiao
- 25:38So this one, hulajiaoyou, it can be a chili oil but also as common can be just chili sans oil,
- 25:47in which case they’ll be called ‘hulake’. The named literally means ‘burn chili’,
- 25:52and what they are are chilis deep fried to a very deep borderline scorched state. You
- 25:59might not guess it but they are really quite aromatic and they can then be sprinkled into
- 26:04dishes like Kung Pao chicken which is probably its most famous application.
- 26:09You can also, however, see it in an oil form… which can help give things a little depth. To
- 26:13make it, we’ll first infuse things with aromatics and spices like always, though with this one it’s
- 26:18especially optional, and then after straining get the oil up to 130C. Then add in 60 grams of
- 26:25your workhorse chili cut into half inch sections, and then deep fry that for about seven minutes,
- 26:30or until the chili get to a deep chestnut color like so. Then strain, set aside, and add 10 grams
- 26:37of red Sichuan peppercorns soaked in a bit of liquor. Once all the moisture’s expelled,
- 26:42about two minutes, ladle those back over the chilis… and then let those soak.
- 26:49This will be used in the Hula flavor profile in Sichuan cooking – Kung Pao, to reiterate,
- 26:55the most famous but you can also see it in things like Huajiao Pork and various
- 27:00qiang dishes. To execute this flavor, at home we should be clear that most people
- 27:07just start their stir fry by shallow frying those chilis, removing, then you can add them
- 27:13back later on. In restaurants, pre-prepared Hulake I think would generally be the move,
- 27:22but using come of this oil in my opinion can help add back a bit of the missing flavor. So if you’ve
- 27:28got this stuff, you can start your Kung Pao with aromatics in a little less oil than usual,
- 27:33and then add your scorched chilis together with a couple of the Sichuan peppers and about a
- 27:38tablespoon of that oil… and optionally use some more of said oil to finish.
- 27:44Paojiaoyou
- 27:45Next, pickled chili oil. Now we’ll also have to be upfront here that for this recipe,
- 27:52straight out of the tin, um… the sourcing might be borderline impossible. Because
- 27:58this will rely on Chinese fermented chilis, but not a can like this one… they’re both fermented
- 28:06but these Sichuan sort are very very sour. We’ll be using two types – one a not spicy large sort,
- 28:15and one a very spicy small pickled Heaven facing. You might be able to find the latter at a Chinese
- 28:21supermarket, but the former – I don’t think is available internationally. You might be able
- 28:28to play around with vinegar pickled chilis, or maybe Korean ones… it’s a tough source.
- 28:35But we’ll take 280 grams large pickled chilis, slice them open… they will have a lot of moisture
- 28:42so we’ll quickly give them a strain. We’re looking for about 140 grams after straining.
- 28:48Slice off the stem of the spicy pickled chili, 80 grams worth, and then also chop up 60 grams
- 28:54of pickled ginger. At this point, we’ll finely mince this all together until it’s super pasty,
- 29:00which will take a hot second so do be patient, and again food processor’s fine if you’ve got one.
- 29:06But either way, once you’re looking at something a bit like this, set it aside.
- 29:12We’ll then infuse our oil with onion, scallion, and ginger, same as before… but with this oil
- 29:17we’ll lower the quantity to a cup and a half and for the spices we wanted also to keep
- 29:23things a little on the light and fresh side… simplifying to this mix. Then strain that all,
- 29:29and add in the pickled chili paste. Swap the flame to medium high and slowly fry until the pickled
- 29:35chili turns an orange-ish hue, and it looks closer to ‘cooked’ chili than ‘fresh’ chili,
- 29:41or about 8 to 10 minutes. Then just shut off the heat, and reserve.
- 29:46Now in a restaurant context, you could think of this as almost like a style of laoyou – some
- 29:52recipes even include a little chili bean paste, which is also an option for you.
- 29:58It’ll be an instant start to dishes that make heavy use of pickled chilis like Paojiao kidney
- 30:04and various fish fragrant dishes – you start off with the oil, aromatics, maybe a little extra
- 30:10pickled chili to hit a couple different levels. The oil is excellent with tomato, you can also use
- 30:16it in noodles, and pickled chili rice noodle pot is also a thing. For that dish specifically, you
- 30:22can see the usefulness… this oil takes what would usually need a good five minutes at the start or
- 30:30the recipe, to something practically instant – and full recipe, again, down in the Substack.
- 30:38Now, all of the previous chili oils used dried chili, or I guess otherwise preserved chilis,
- 30:45which is the most common way that you see the chili pepper employed in Sichuan cuisine. This
- 30:51chili oil uses fresh: a comparative rarity, specific to the ‘salt gang’ cuisine of Zigong
- 30:58and its environs – most famously Xianjiao rabbit or beef, and to a lesser extent beef noodles.
- 31:05Now this will be based off of 140 grams of a fresh spicy chili – this was Chinese heaven
- 31:11facing chili, you could also use Thai bird’s eye… minced together with 60 grams worth of
- 31:15ginger. You don’t need to get this as fine as the pickled chili, something like this is perfect.
- 31:22Then, we’ll separately mince 80 grams of young ginger – which I know is hard to find
- 31:27abroad – two possible alternative routes below… and then set both of those aside.
- 31:32And then we’ll infuse the oil just like the pickled chili oil, also the same spice mix
- 31:38too as said oil. Then strain, and add in the young ginger and swap the flame to medium-high.
- 31:44Once that young ginger has released the bulk of its aggressive-sounding moisture,
- 31:48about 90 seconds, add in the chili-ginger-ginger mixture. You’ll be looking, again, for the chili
- 31:54to have released a good bit of its moisture and turn a light red ‘cooked chili’ hue,
- 32:00which’ll likely take about eight to ten minutes. Then, set that aside, jar it up.
- 32:06That said, important bit that unlike our other chili oils, this one can not keep. It has fresh
- 32:14ingredients, and even though we fried it all, fresh aromatics in an anaerobic environment is
- 32:22still beginning to play a little with fire. Keep this one in the fridge next to the pickled chili
- 32:28oil – I personally wouldn’t go past two weeks with it. We’ll link a recipe to the super famous
- 32:34xianjiao rabbit, but if you’re looking for a quick way to use it all it… we’ve personally enjoyed
- 32:41it as a topping for mixed rice noodles. To whip something like that up, grab about a tablespoon
- 32:46half of the fresh chili oil, mix it with half tablespoon soy sauce, ¼ tsp salt, ¼ tsp sugar,
- 32:541/8 tsp MSG, and a teaspoon of oyster sauce. Chop up some scallion and cilantro, and mix it all with
- 33:02cooked rice noodles – or even noodle noodles. So then… That’s it. Seven base chili oils. Now
- 33:11we did promise you all the Sichuan chilis oils, so… I think it would be natural to
- 33:17ask about products like this. You can find this brand almost everywhere in China, and I think
- 33:27internationally too, it’s made in Sichuan, and there’s even similar international products like
- 33:33Fly By Jing. Now, while we don’t have a time machine, we would hazard that these sorts of
- 33:40bottles are somewhat newer entrances to the market – I would guess that they might’ve been inspired
- 33:46by the breakout popularity of Lao Gan Ma from neighboring Guizhou. These are seasoned chili
- 33:52oils, no further adjustment mandatory, which of course can very convenient for modern homecooks.
- 33:59We consider something like this to be a derivate product of our base chili oils. To
- 34:05make something like it using one is really not too difficult – take your chili oil,
- 34:11and add some salt, MSG, little bit of sugar and that is more than good enough to top over
- 34:17your fried egg. If you want that food industry flavor, could also add a little garlic powder,
- 34:23maybe a little chicken powder for its I+G. This specific product also has some crunchy
- 34:31fried peanuts and soybeans in it, which’s often a common move in this kind of bottle…
- 34:37so feel free to add in anything crunchy that you like… get weird, get local,
- 34:43add some corn nuts and chicharrón, maybe some of the previous fried onions? Why not.
- 34:50Or, alternatively, you might also find some products a little like this,
- 34:55lineage of which is a little clearer. This seems obviously derived from Sichuan’s famed
- 35:02douhua dipping sauces, many of which in turn can also be derived from these base chili oils.
- 35:09Now I am starting to run out of breath today, apologies,
- 35:13so if you’re interested in how to make a dip like this, do check out our Chili Tofu Rice
- 35:20Lunchtime Integration Initiative video for three dips that can also make use of our chili oils.
- 35:27So again, even more recipes are down in the Substack post for how to use them,
- 35:33they’re free as always, so do check them out… a huge, huge thank you to everybody that’s
- 35:40supporting us on Patreon… and of course, subscribe for more Chinese cooking videos.
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