Perfect Z Offset On Your 3D Printer - How to get it right! — Transcript
Full transcript
- 0:00this video is sponsored by f3d m so you know that you need to tune your Zed offset for perfect first
- 0:06layers but how do you know when it's right in this video I'll quickly show you what you're looking
- 0:10for when you're trying to dial in your Zed off set with examples of what you might be seeing on
- 0:14your 3D printer so you know what to do to improve things at the end I'll also address some commonly
- 0:20asked questions about Zed offset and give you some answers I won't go into too much detail about what
- 0:25Zed offset actually is I have another video for that which I'll link to at the end of the video
- 0:30and in the description below in very basic terms adjusting your Zed offset moves the nozzle nearer
- 0:36or further from your bed while printing what I like to do after setting the Zed offset during
- 0:41the bed leveling process is to then fine-tune it by printing something with a large footprint and
- 0:47adjust the Zed offset in small increments while watching the filament laying down I should say
- 0:52here that this will only fully work on a 3D printer that has a bed probe and allows a zed
- 0:58offset adjustment while printing however knowing what a good first layer looks like is important
- 1:03to make any adjustments to put it right even if you can't adjust in real time and have to print
- 1:08and adjust a couple of times to dial it in to give examples of what you're looking for I've printed a
- 1:13number of the single layer 60x 60 mm squares with different Zed offsets I also now have a digital
- 1:20microscope so I can show you some nice close-ups of what's going on so first off let's look at far
- 1:26too close now the first thing that I should say is the ual Zed offset figure getting bigger or
- 1:32smaller is relative on all the 3D printers I have the Zed offset figure goes into negative
- 1:37values as the nozzle gets closer to the bed you might say that this is a bigger Zed offset even
- 1:43though the number is getting smaller this can be very confusing so first of all make sure you
- 1:48understand which direction your nozzle goes up or down when you ask for a bigger or smaller Z offset
- 1:55I'll try to avoid these terms to save confusion and instead just refer to your nozzle being closer
- 2:00or further from your bed while printing your first layer and whilst I'm printing multiple
- 2:05squares to demonstrate if you're quick enough you can usually dial your Z offset in with just one
- 2:09print so too close in the extreme the nozzle actually touching the bed while printing will
- 2:15block the nozzle and stop filament being extruded some have confused this with a block nozzle end up
- 2:20seeking advice for the wrong original issue also if your nozzle is actually scraping on
- 2:25the bed then it's very likely to cause damage to your bed nozzle or probably both if at any point
- 2:31you notice your nozzle touching your print surface while printing cancel the print straight away and
- 2:36then go back to your printer Z offset process and try again something definitely isn't right if it's
- 2:41actually touching while printing assuming that you're getting some filament extruding having the
- 2:45nozzle too close to the bed will cause filament to be squeezed wider than intended and then too
- 2:50much overlap as the next adjacent line is printed this will cause filament to be pushed up in areas
- 2:56and will leave a very rough surface if the nozzle doesn't dislodge filament that's already been laid
- 3:01down either way this is what you'll see if your nozzle is too close the microscope image really
- 3:06shows this well I got this microscope from Amazon it comes with different lenses for different
- 3:11magnification levels as well as some slides with some interesting things to look at in close detail
- 3:16I'll put a link in the description if you want to have a look for yourself no pun intended as we get
- 3:21closer to the correct Z offet the surface that is left becomes a little smoother but there are still
- 3:27areas where things are clearly not smooth yet so we need to raise the nozzle some more all of the
- 3:31filament used in this video was supplied by our sponsor F3 DM who have just released their brand
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- 3:45color consistency and ease of use which is why it's used by many of the largest print farms and
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- 4:15Innovative real design which not only looks great it uses a combination of materials that makes it
- 4:20fully recyclable which we like a lot they also work well with the bamboo lab AMS and AMS light
- 4:26for all of you wanting multimaterial printing check out their full range from the links in
- 4:30the description below if your nozzle is too far from your bed then in the extreme the filament
- 4:35won't even stick and instead will just be dragged around the bed making a mess as you get closer
- 4:41you may start to see some areas sticking but then other areas where the nozzle or parts of cooling
- 4:45ducts touch raised areas and dislodge them it's usually quite easy to see here that the nozzle
- 4:51is too far from the bed the real ta tail of when your nozzle is too far from the bed even though
- 4:57the entire print is sticking is gaps between adjacent lines when the print is removed it's
- 5:02really easy to see that lines of filament that run alongside each other not stuck together however
- 5:07it's not always that obvious as the first layer is printing especially if your print surface and
- 5:13filament are the same color a torch or the light on your phone can be really useful for detecting
- 5:19these gaps but another Telltale of the nozzle being too far away is raised Corners finally
- 5:25this is what a first layer should look like with a perfect Zed offset the there are no gaps between
- 5:30lines of filament and there are no raised areas when the print is removed we can see that we have
- 5:35one single sheet of plastic with no gaps now we've dialed in a perfect Zed offet let's answer some of
- 5:40the most common questions around Zed offet that cause confusion do you need to change your Zed
- 5:46offset for different layer Heights no you don't adjusting the Zed offset moves the whole Zed AIS
- 5:53up or down if you have a first layer height of say 0.2 mm then the printer will will raise the
- 6:00nozzle 0.2 mm before printing the first layer if you change the first layer height then the
- 6:05printer will just move the nozzle to that height and then extrude more or less filament to achieve
- 6:11the correct Extrusion needed do you need to change your Zed offset for different filament possibly
- 6:18some filament like PG can be extremely sensitive to a perfect Zed offset PG can be really sticky
- 6:25and any filament that touches the side of the nozzle is very likely to be stretch like chewing
- 6:30gum and leave thin strands all over your print if your nozzle is even slightly too close then any
- 6:36filament that's squeezed out will stick to the side of the nozzle in this case it's sometimes
- 6:40better to raise the nozzle with Z offset so that it's very slightly on the high side of perfect
- 6:45with pla in contrast some other filaments like to be pushed into the print surface more as they are
- 6:51naturally less sticky I found some abs and ASA to be like this and a slightly closer nozzle can
- 6:57help do you need to chck change your Z offset for different print surfaces again possibly if
- 7:04you use my examples in this video then you'll know what you're looking for and can tune your Z offset
- 7:08accordingly with rougher surfaces the nozzle will probably want to be a little bit closer
- 7:13as the filament can be squeezed into any dips in the surface again though you're still looking for
- 7:18that smooth top surface with no gaps does an incorrect Zed offset cause the nozzle to hit
- 7:24infill higher up in a print no depending how high up you go some people get the wrong idea about Zed
- 7:32offset and believe that reducing your Zed offset so that the nozzle is 0.1 mm closer while printing
- 7:38the first layer also means that every layer will be 0.1 mm shorter in height this is not the case
- 7:45think of the Zed axis like a ruler when you change the Zed offset you're moving that whole ruler up
- 7:51and down not changing the scale of the ruler if you have a zed offet which means that the
- 7:57nozzle is too close to the bed and you get a a rough surface on your first layer this can then
- 8:02be translated to the layer above however after a few layers it's very unlikely you'll see any
- 8:07further effects except for maybe some stringing because of filament that's stuck to the side of
- 8:12the nozzle can I adjust my Zed offset if I don't have a bed probe possibly the important thing to
- 8:19work out is how your printer knows where the bottom of the Z AIS actually is for example
- 8:25before I added a bed probe to my ender3 version 2 it had a mechanical switch to tell the printer
- 8:31where z0 should be if I wanted to raise the whole Z AIS then I could adjust this said
- 8:38limit switch up it's not always very easy to do though and you're usually much better off paying
- 8:42attention when tramming your bed to set your Zed offset as accurately as possible there's a video
- 8:48Linked In the description which shows the best method I found for tramming your bed with this
- 8:53kind of setup if you're having problems getting your first layers to stick reliably then check
- 8:58out this video which gives you seven different factors that can affect first layer adhesion
- 9:03with fixes or if you find that you're constantly having to relevel your bed check out this video
- 9:08which will give you some more things to try don't forget to hit subscribe if you don't
- 9:11want to miss out on any future videos too thanks for watching and I'll see you in the next one
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