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Pattern Making for Beginners – Essential Foundations (Part 1) — Transcript

by Nino Via · 2,001 words · 330 segments · language en · Watch on YouTube

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0:00All right, before we jump in, I want to
0:02let you know that these are the first
0:03three modules, the first three classes
0:06of my full course pattern making in
0:10fashion design part one.
0:12These lessons are the foundation, the
0:16basics that you absolutely need in order
0:19to build strong pattern making skills
0:23and techniques. So, let's get started.
0:31Hi everyone, welcome. My name is Nino
0:33Via and I'm your instructor. For those
0:35of you who enrolled in my first course,
0:39who watched the first course called how
0:40to create a fashion collection and
0:43launch your own brand, you know that I
0:45was an instructor at FIDM, F I D M, the
0:47Fashion Institute of Design and
0:48Merchandising in Los Angeles, where I
0:50taught many classes like sketching and
0:52draping and pattern making, collection
0:55development, and many more.
0:57If you haven't watched my first course,
1:00I encourage you to do so because it'll
1:03give you a really good idea of the
1:05overall picture and the process of
1:07creating a collection and launching your
1:10own brand.
1:11This second course is about pattern
1:13making and some draping. And I say some
1:17draping because many times a pattern is
1:20developed by first draping on a dress
1:23form, which I'll show you in a minute,
1:25and then taking that drape and drafting
1:28a pattern from it. Pattern making and
1:30draping go hand in hand.
1:33And in fact, you will see me going back
1:35and forth between pattern making and
1:37draping.
1:38Because the first concept and question
1:42that we need to address is how do you
1:45take a two-dimensional piece of paper, a
1:48pattern,
1:49and create a three-dimensional
1:52shape and design from it?
1:55In this course, you will learn basic
1:57principles of pattern making such as
1:59dart manipulation, adding fullness. You
2:02will learn techniques such as pivoting
2:05and slashing and spreading. And you will
2:07learn a whole bunch of new words and
2:09terminology such as slopers and blocks
2:12and darts and pleats and tucks and
2:14sharing,
2:15princess seam style lines, yokes, seam
2:18allowance, etc. So, we'll go over all
2:22the tools necessary to make patterns.
2:25>> [clears throat]
2:25>> And in fact, speaking of tools, let's
2:28start with the tools needed to draft a
2:31pattern or patterns.
2:34So, we'll start with scissors. And
2:36there's two kinds of scissors that you
2:40should get. I'm going to be very
2:42professional about this and if you were
2:44in the industry or looking forward to
2:47going into the industry, you will need
2:49two kinds of scissors. This one is used
2:53to cut paper. When I say paper, there's
2:57two kinds of paper. There's manila
2:59paper, which is
3:01not really cardboard, but it's sort of
3:03stock paper. And then there's also
3:06dotted paper, sort of more of a
3:08lightweight dotted paper. So, if you
3:11were cutting paper, you would you would
3:13use these scissors. Otherwise, just a
3:15regular normal pair of scissors for
3:18fabric. And in this
3:21course, we'll use a fabric called muslin
3:24to drape patterns.
3:26You will need a pencil, very sharp
3:29pencil, and a ruler, an 18-in clear this
3:33bends, you can see it, it's flexible,
3:352-in by 18-in clear ruler.
3:40You will need pins, regular pins, not
3:42safety pins. This is a straight pins,
3:44okay?
3:45You will need a French curve. I don't
3:49know if you can see it. I'm going to
3:50hold it against a darker background.
3:53This is a French curve.
3:56Okay, it has a certain shape to it. See
3:57that?
3:59You will need a hip curve. It has a
4:03certain shape. This is a hip curve.
4:06You will need a tracing wheel, tracing
4:10wheel. There's different variations, but
4:13they're all pretty much the same. It's a
4:14little wheel that turns with little
4:15teeth at the end.
4:17You will need an awl, A W L, spell A W
4:22L.
4:23A notcher. This is a notcher and it
4:27makes You can hear the clicking. It
4:30makes notches.
4:32Scotch tape, good old scotch tape,
4:35and stapler.
4:38And along with stapler is a staple
4:40remover to remove staples, okay? These
4:43are the most important tools necessary.
4:46There's a few more things, but these are
4:48the essential tools
4:49needed to draft patterns, okay? In the
4:53next class, we'll start with principles
4:56and techniques on pattern drafting and
4:58we'll get going. So, I'll see you next
5:01class. Hello again. Welcome back. In the
5:04last class, I mentioned that I'd be
5:06going back and forth between pattern
5:08making and draping. Now, this is not a
5:12draping class, but you remember I
5:15mentioned or like I asked the question,
5:17how do you take a two-dimensional piece
5:20of paper or fabric
5:23and turn it into a three-dimensional
5:26shape? Well, I'm going to show you. So,
5:29this is a dress form.
5:32Not to be confused with a mannequin
5:35because a mannequin is what you see in
5:38the window of the store for display
5:42purposes. This is a dress form. A dress
5:44form in the industry is used to drape,
5:48for draping purposes obviously, and for
5:50fitting purposes.
5:52All these seams here have a name. So,
5:57let's get let's get familiar with some
5:59of these new terminology. For example,
6:02this center
6:04seam here in the front is called center
6:07front.
6:08This here is a princess line or princess
6:12seam. It goes from the shoulder across
6:15the bust to the waistline.
6:17We have a side seam,
6:21a shoulder seam, we have a neckline,
6:26and a waistline. The bottom of the tape,
6:29the bottom of the tape, not the middle,
6:30not the top, but the bottom of the tape
6:32is the waistline.
6:35And then
6:37the center of the bust is called the
6:39apex. It's very important to know where
6:41the center is because everything comes
6:44from the apex. You'll see in the next
6:47session how I'm going to show you
6:49certain pivoting
6:51principles and techniques and the apex
6:53is really important in that. I have
6:56taken a piece of muslin
6:58and I've pinned it on form.
7:01I have a pencil mark across it, kind of
7:06dividing it in half,
7:08and it's across the apex,
7:11and it's straight across, it's parallel
7:13to the floor. This is a straight across
7:15line, parallel to the floor.
7:17I've pinned it.
7:19And now again, this is not a draping
7:22class, so I'm not going to spend time
7:24showing you how to drape this, but it in
7:2730 seconds, I'm going to show you a a
7:30concept on how do you take a
7:32two-dimensional piece of fabric, and you
7:34see this extra fabric right here, this
7:36extra fullness? Well, I'm going to pinch
7:39it
7:41and fold it to create a dart.
7:47And I'll do the same thing
7:51with the top portion. See this extra
7:55fullness right here? Well, I'm going to
7:57fold it, I'm going to
8:00pinch it and fold it down like this so
8:03that I can create a dart. For those of
8:07you who don't know what a dart is, I
8:09will explain that soon enough.
8:12But you can see that it's beginning to
8:15take shape. Now we have some kind of a
8:16shape to it. Now this is these are
8:18darts,
8:19but they could be tucks or pleats or
8:23sharing and so on.
8:25We'll we'll get to that. Now at this
8:28point, I would mark it. I would take a
8:30pencil and mark all the information
8:34necessary that I would take and transfer
8:37it to
8:38dotted paper. So, okay, so I have marked
8:42my muslin with a pencil. I put certain
8:46cross marks on my muslin, my side seam,
8:49my waistline, neckline, etc.
8:52And I've pinned my darts temporarily.
8:56So, you can see there's a certain shape
8:58to it. Now, I'm going to remove
9:01this muslin, remove the pins. You can
9:04see there's a certain three-dimensional
9:07shape to it.
9:09And now I'm going to remove all the
9:11pins.
9:13And when it's all said and done,
9:16my muslin now with all the proper
9:18markings
9:20looks like this.
9:22See these markings indicating [music]
9:24the shoulder dart, the apex,
9:29waistline dart, and so on.
9:32And the next [music] step is to take
9:33this onto dotted paper. In the next
9:36class, I'm going to show you how to take
9:38this muslin drape
9:40onto [music] dotted paper, onto manila,
9:43and then using that as a sloper to
9:46manipulate [music]
9:46our patterns, okay?
9:49Okay, moving right along. In the last
9:52class, we removed the drape from the
9:55dress form,
9:56and now we're going to transfer to
9:58dotted paper.
9:59Now, if this was a draping class, I
10:02could spend a whole class
10:04and show you exactly how to transfer.
10:08Um but because this is pattern making, I
10:11want to cut to the chase and give you
10:14the overall picture of the steps
10:16involved. So, what you would do, you
10:18take your muslin
10:20onto a piece of dotted paper
10:24and you pin your muslin to the dotted
10:28paper
10:29and using your tracing wheel, and you
10:32see again this tracing wheel has little
10:34teeth here. And when you trace all those
10:37little cross marks, all those little
10:40pencil marks onto dotted paper,
10:44right? And then you remove
10:46>> [snorts]
10:46>> the muslin, the drape, you end up with a
10:50piece of dotted paper pattern that looks
10:53like this.
10:56At this point, what you should do next
10:58is to pin it back onto the form. Why?
11:03Well, we want to make sure that it fits
11:05correctly, number one. And secondly, we
11:08want to make sure that what you're what
11:11you have in mind as far as the design is
11:13concerned, that what you had in mind and
11:15envisioned is exactly what you have
11:19here. And if there are any changes to be
11:21made, if maybe it's too tight, it's too
11:23big, any kind of minor uh adjustments,
11:27now is the time to do it. Okay?
11:31Next, we
11:33take the dotted paper. You're going to
11:36staple the dotted paper to
11:40your manila.
11:42And again, you transfer with your
11:45tracing wheel all this information, all
11:47the darts and the apex and so on,
11:52onto manila. Then we remove the dotted
11:56paper and we end up with a pattern that
12:00looks like this.
12:03This
12:05is a manila
12:06pattern. It's a sloper, actually.
12:11Okay, let's look at this pattern for a
12:13minute.
12:14So, this pattern has two darts.
12:18What is a dart? By definition, the
12:21textbook says a dart is a shape
12:25in a pattern to control the fit of a
12:29garment when it's stitched.
12:31These lines right here
12:34are called legs.
12:37These are dart legs.
12:40The end of the dart, the very end point
12:44of the dart, is called the vanishing
12:46point.
12:48And in the center of the pattern is the
12:53apex,
12:54the center of the bust.
12:57These little guys right here are
13:00notches.
13:01And we use our notcher
13:05to make notches.
13:07And it indicates
13:09to the seamstress
13:11how to sew this dart, meaning that this
13:15leg and this leg must come together and
13:19be sewn and stitched together to create
13:21a dart.
13:23So, I mentioned something called a
13:25sloper, also known as a block.
13:28What is a sloper? A sloper
13:30[clears throat] is a very basic pattern,
13:32almost like a template, if you will.
13:35It's a basic pattern that we use and by
13:38applying certain principles and
13:40techniques,
13:41you will be able to draft a specific
13:44design that you have in [music] mind.
13:46Most of you do not have a sloper to use.
13:49So,
13:50you're thinking, well, how I'm going to
13:52get one?
13:53The easiest way to get one is to buy an
13:58existing pattern from your local fabric
14:01store.
14:02>> [music]
14:02>> You can look for a pattern that has two
14:06darts, a shoulder dart and a waistline
14:09dart. The next class, I'm going to take
14:11the dart manipulation principle. I'm
14:14going to show you certain techniques so
14:17that we can get to work and start
14:19manipulating patterns. So, if this video
14:22resonated with you, I encourage you to
14:25enroll in the full course. I'll put the
14:27link in the description below and I will
14:29see you in class.
14:33>> [music]

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