La vera verità sugli shampoo — Transcript

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1. 0:00fortifying
2. 0:01Regenerating. For curly hair. For wavy hair. For straight hair. For silky smooth hair
3. 0:08With coconut water, papaya, avocado oil, honey's treasures, wheat germ, silk proteins
4. 0:15cachemere and milk proteins. I could continue to list the dozens types of shampoo we find on the market
5. 0:23but are they really so different from each other?
6. 0:27How many types do exist? Well, the short answer is 3
7. 0:31Hello everyone, my name is Beatrice Mautino and in these videos
8. 0:34we talk about cosmetics from a scientific point of view
9. 0:37To understand what there is in a shampoo, to learn to distinguish them from each other,
10. 0:42let's start from the beginning, from the hair
11. 0:44Under a microscope, the structure of a hair is very similar to that of a rope. Just like ropes, the hair
12. 0:51is made up of many thin fibers that twist around each other, to create the thicker fiber
13. 0:58that we see in our hair. These fibers are primarily made up of a protein called keratin
14. 1:05that we also find in the skin or in the nails. This rope is further fattened by sebum
15. 1:10which is an oily substance produced by sebaceous glands inside the scalp
16. 1:16and they produce sebum all the time like Oompa Loompas,
17. 1:22only this factory produces oil instead of chocolate
18. 1:27Sebum is good for hair because it protects it but it also weighs them down
19. 1:32causing them to stay close to one another in strands
20. 1:34which become bigger and bigger over time between one wash and another.
21. 1:39So we want to remove sebum because it makes hair greasy.
22. 1:43But how do we do it? Water alone is not enough because it can't dissolve fats
23. 1:48You need a substance that can hold on to fat and drag it away
24. 1:54during rinsing: in short, a surfactant
25. 1:57Surfactants are the main components of shampoos but also of soaps and detergents in general
26. 2:03they are molecules derived from fats, of which they have kept a portion that likes fat
27. 2:09which binds well to fat. However they have been treated so as to have a sort of head, another part
28. 2:16that likes water. So what do surfactants do? They bind to the fat and then they take it away when we rinse
29. 2:24Is this all?
30. 2:26Well, actually not, because it is true that the sebum greases the hair, but it also protects it
31. 2:30So the goal is to replace this oily layer that covers the hair
32. 2:36with something that protects it but doesn't grease it
33. 2:39Otherwise we find ourselves, with Barbie's hair. Do you remember?
34. 2:43I don't have a Barbie here, but I have something similar
35. 2:48He is a puppet, his name is Charles Darwin and, as you can see, he has very dry, very thin hair,
36. 2:55a little "tending to frizz". Sure, they are not greasy
37. 2:59but he needs a treatment ... advertisements would say that
38. 3:04his hair needs to be fed. They certainly need to breathe ...
39. 3:11I have to tell you something a little unpleasant and I'll try to do it in the most delicate way possible
40. 3:17I'll close Charlie's ears (do not listen)
41. 3:22Hair
42. 3:25do not breathe
43. 3:28They are dead
44. 3:30I mean, it's not like they're dead. It's that they've never really been alive. They can't breathe
45. 3:35they can't be fed, they can't be protected
46. 3:38They are fibers. Like a woollen sweater ... have you ever worried
47. 3:44about feeding a wool sweater or letting it breathe?
48. 3:49No? So why should you do it with hair? Sweaters are washed to remove dirt
49. 3:55fat, smog residues, but we also put a softener, we do a delicate wash
50. 4:02and we avoid to do a spin cycle
51. 4:06to keep them at their best conditions. In the same way, with hair
52. 4:10we must avoid mechanical damages, so, for example
53. 4:16we don't brush it a lot, just a little bit
54. 4:20we avoid drying it too vigorously like that
55. 4:29Then we have to put the equivalent of the softener for the woollen sweater
56. 4:34in shampoos this softener is usually the conditioning molecules
57. 4:38themain components of hair conditioners. There are many types
58. 4:43Among the most famous there are silicones, which we will discuss in a dedicated video
59. 4:49otherwise it would be a too long a digression
60. 4:51Silicones form a thin film that covers
61. 4:56the hair, keeps it moisturized and also protects it from mechanical damage
62. 5:01The other big category of conditioning molecules is quaternary ammonium salts
63. 5:05Ok, now we did the biggest part. We have all the elements that allow us to classify
64. 5:12all the shampoos existing in the three groups I mentioned at the beginning of this video
65. 5:18So the first category is the shampoos I like to call "hard and pure" like, for example
66. 5:24this one. These shampoos focus on washing action
67. 5:31They have more detergents than conditioning agents
68. 5:37They make a lot of foam and wash away any residue of sebum. You find them on the market recommended
69. 5:43for oily hair or normal hair, whatever it means, or linked to adjectives like
70. 5:50volumizing, because they separate the hair from each other and give volume
71. 5:56This one, for example, is good for fine hair that tends to be oily
72. 6:02on the label we read that it guarantees a deep cleansing without weighing down the hair
73. 6:06The second category is shampoos that compromise a little. And here again I have one
74. 6:14These shampoos have the characteristic of
75. 6:17associating conditioning agents with surfactants
76. 6:21silicones or quaternary ammonium salts, or other molecules with this function
77. 6:28they are the majority of the shampoos on the market. You can find them on the shelves
78. 6:33with the name "2 in 1", the classic shampoo&conditioner formula
79. 6:37but also associated with adjectives as "moisturizing"
80. 6:40or suggested for dyed hair or dry hair or like this, suitable for straight and ...
81. 6:46vital hair.
82. 6:48We then have a third category: the sweet ones. Here I have
83. 6:52an artisanal hazelnut shampoo made by a friend of mine. She gave it to me at Christmas
84. 6:57The sweet shampoos are those that fall into the category of baby shampoo, no-tears shampoos
85. 7:02They are actually like the hard and pure but
86. 7:07they use much more delicate surfactants
87. 7:10of those used by the hard and pure ones
88. 7:14so in practice they wash a little less than the others.
89. 7:18there is then another category that would be the fourth, but it is actually a bit borderline
90. 7:23I'm talking about sweeper-shampoos, anti-dandruff shampoos
91. 7:28Which often contain active ingredients that are real drugs. So they are borderline
92. 7:35between cosmetics and drugs, but these deserve a video on their own
93. 7:40Everything else, all the ingredients we read on the bottles
94. 7:43like oil, avocado, wheat germ, etcetera, are in fact variations on the theme but don't change the
95. 7:50Structure of these three categories I talked about
96. 7:53And they certainly do not nourish and regenerate the hair. Their main function is to
97. 7:58differentiate products to the eyes of consumers, with different colors and textures that we like more or less
98. 8:07We think that silk proteins complement keratin fibers. But do you know what their main destination is?
99. 8:14The shower drain ...
100. 8:17Charlie and I will stop here for today. Thank you for watching and if you enjoyed the video
101. 8:23subscribe to the Facebook page and to the Youtube channel. I think we're now going to wash our hair.