Jonathan Anderson on Refashioning the House of Dior | The BoF Podcast — Transcript
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- 0:04Hi, this is Imran Ahmed, founder and CEO
- 0:07of the business of fashion. Welcome to a
- 0:09special episode of the BOF [music]
- 0:11podcast. It's Monday, January 26th.
- 0:14Jonathan Anderson's oat couture debut
- 0:17for Dior, which took place earlier today
- 0:20at the Musea Rodan in Paris, [music] was
- 0:22perhaps the most anticipated moment so
- 0:25far in his bid to re-energize the luxury
- 0:28mega brand. In December, I joined
- 0:30Jonathan in Paris [music] just as that
- 0:32collection was coming together to learn
- 0:34how he's reimagining couture as a
- 0:37creative laboratory that [music] feeds
- 0:39the entire maison, and to reflect on his
- 0:42journey at Dior thus far. [music] In
- 0:44this exclusive interview, Jonathan talks
- 0:46about why couture still needs to exist,
- 0:49how endangered craft can be protected,
- 0:52and the very human reality of leading a
- 0:54global fashion machine like Christian
- 0:56Dior. [music]
- 0:57Here's Jonathan Anderson on the BOF
- 1:00podcast.
- 1:02Jonathan Anderson,
- 1:04welcome to the BOF podcast.
- 1:06>> Thank you very much for having me.
- 1:08>> Do you know I I was thinking, do you
- 1:10remember we sat down for that
- 1:12conversation
- 1:14when you
- 1:16were just moving into your like first
- 1:19post LVMH JW Anderson offices? I think
- 1:22that was what year was it that
- 1:25>> used?
- 1:26>> That was in I'm trying to work out which
- 1:28building. I think that was in Shackle
- 1:29Lane.
- 1:30>> Yeah. Or something like that.
- 1:31>> And that was just when they LVMH had
- 1:34invested in JW Anderson. So that was
- 1:38>> that was 10 years ago.
- 1:39>> Wow.
- 1:40>> Yeah.
- 1:40>> Okay. So it's been it's been 10 years
- 1:43coming. We're sitting here in
- 1:47the space where
- 1:50typically you were doing your men's
- 1:52collections.
- 1:52>> Yeah.
- 1:53>> But now you're doing old couture
- 1:54fittings here as well.
- 1:56>> Yeah. And women's.
- 1:57>> And women's. And it's December
- 2:0116th.
- 2:02>> Yeah.
- 2:02>> So by the time this comes out, it's
- 2:04going to be many, many weeks later. But
- 2:06it's it was really cool just now to have
- 2:08a look through
- 2:09>> Yeah.
- 2:11all of your ideas and how you're
- 2:12thinking about couture,
- 2:15your first couture collection. And I I
- 2:17guess I wanted to start with
- 2:23when you when you're thinking about, you
- 2:25know, you have these 18 collections
- 2:27you're doing. You know, some of them are
- 2:28for Jonathan Anderson or JW Anderson,
- 2:30some of them are
- 2:32>> for for Dior. What what do you see as
- 2:36the purpose of couture
- 2:38>> first for you as a creative person
- 2:41>> and then also in this
- 2:45massive enterprise that is Dior like
- 2:48what's the goal or the purpose of
- 2:50couture?
- 2:51>> Well, it's the first if someone had
- 2:53asked me about a year and a half ago
- 2:56about couture I would have been like I I
- 2:59had never projected myself into couture.
- 3:02I never really understood it and I would
- 3:05have probably nonchalant would have said
- 3:09something like well I think it's
- 3:10irrelevant or something really I
- 3:13probably would have said something like
- 3:14that
- 3:16>> why
- 3:16>> because I I I I never really understood
- 3:19it. I never understood the glamour
- 3:20behind it. you know, there was there's
- 3:23always something very glamorous or
- 3:24something very kind of um at bay or
- 3:30something with the the idea of the
- 3:32hierarchy of fashion.
- 3:34>> And now,
- 3:35>> and now I have a completely different
- 3:38understanding of it. I feel like I'm
- 3:40doing I kind of joke every time I'm in a
- 3:42fitting. I feel like I'm doing like a
- 3:44PhD um in couture because I I have an
- 3:47amazing atilier and it's every day you
- 3:52are learning the process of something
- 3:56that has been done
- 3:58for so long in France. I mean it's it is
- 4:01a kind of it's an institution in itself.
- 4:04There's rules. there's um there's so
- 4:07many different things you can and cannot
- 4:09do and and in a weird way I was trying
- 4:13to work out how do I approach that or
- 4:15something or how do I how can I relate
- 4:18to it or something I I was at the
- 4:20beginning I found it very difficult to
- 4:21relate to until they did one dress and
- 4:24then I was like okay I'm kind of
- 4:25addicted so
- 4:27>> and so the purpose of couture like you
- 4:30know in the in the like reinvention that
- 4:32you're you're bringing to Dior like now
- 4:35that you've understood it a bit and
- 4:38you've seen the insight like how do you
- 4:39see it fitting into what
- 4:41>> you're doing here?
- 4:42>> Well, for me it's it's a kind of like
- 4:44it's a very emotional process actually.
- 4:47I find it quite emotional because I
- 4:49think it's sort of like
- 4:51it is something that is steeped in
- 4:52history and people who have been working
- 4:55for many many designers inside this
- 4:57house who are still here. So you in a
- 5:00weird way you have to go into kind of
- 5:01like like performative mode that yes I
- 5:04can do this and at the same time being
- 5:06like I'm totally confused
- 5:08>> like imposttor syndrome.
- 5:09>> Yeah. Um but I was trying to think about
- 5:12like you know couture itself and I was
- 5:15trying to work on how do we reframe the
- 5:18narrative of all of it and I was
- 5:21thinking of things I like in craft and
- 5:23what I have done in craft over the last
- 5:2510 years in my previous job and I was
- 5:27thinking couture is kind of like an
- 5:29endangered craft you know as a kind of
- 5:32as a mindset a mythology and making with
- 5:35hand and I was thinking
- 5:39Well, in a weird way, what Dior is doing
- 5:41and other couture houses, which there's
- 5:43not very many left are kind of
- 5:46protecting this endangered craft as a
- 5:49kind of national symbol ultimately of uh
- 5:53of making. And I once I kind of was got
- 5:57into that mind space then I was able to
- 6:00work out okay well what do I want from
- 6:01it or what is new for Dior ultimately in
- 6:05a in a kind of landscape that's had
- 6:08some of my heroes in it from you
- 6:12>> and so when you first
- 6:16kind of stepped into the atelier and you
- 6:19kind of were trying to figure out what
- 6:22you where you were going to start was
- 6:23there
- 6:24>> what was the first image or idea that
- 6:27was lodged in your creative brain that
- 6:30you that was what was the starting point
- 6:32basically? I think my my starting point
- 6:34was one of my dearest friends is Marilyn
- 6:36Leondu who I have worked with many times
- 6:40and for me
- 6:43I think her vessels for me are the idea
- 6:46of form and silhouette. And I was
- 6:49thinking like that is what Dior was so
- 6:51great at is in the silhouette like the
- 6:54the sketch.
- 6:56And um I have this like one vase that I
- 6:59like I love of hers which for me was
- 7:01always like a body and she always she
- 7:03always jokes and she's always like well
- 7:05for me that vase is like Naomi Campbell
- 7:07and I was like okay well what what is a
- 7:09dress that is a vase that ultimately is
- 7:11Naomi Campbell and what is that in in
- 7:14couture? So there was like this kind of
- 7:16So I kind of showed them this vessel and
- 7:18I was like I like the idea of it was
- 7:20pleated and it looked like it was being
- 7:23spun like as if like the movement of
- 7:25clay as you build it.
- 7:27>> Yeah.
- 7:28>> And it's I don't really sketch but it
- 7:31was the first time I kind of sketched
- 7:32something on a piece of paper very badly
- 7:34and I was like can we resolve this? And
- 7:37then it to finish it off like Dior, we
- 7:39put a bow on it.
- 7:43And that was
- 7:45that was about a month and a half into
- 7:47the job,
- 7:48>> right? And so that
- 7:49>> this was just before the summer.
- 7:51>> And so that shape or form
- 7:55>> kind of made its way into the ready to
- 7:57wear, the women's ready to wear, right?
- 7:59>> Which was like kind of midresolved. So
- 8:02it was quite interesting to see it like
- 8:04it's like cut and shortened,
- 8:06>> right? But the structure is not what the
- 8:09structure is in couture.
- 8:10>> Yeah. So what's the difference between
- 8:11the ready to version and the version?
- 8:13>> Inside the one in couture you have these
- 8:16tiny lines of tulle that are gathered
- 8:19which make this like kind of candy floss
- 8:22is what I would describe it as. And they
- 8:25build this very very light structure
- 8:26which holds the shape so that you can
- 8:28push it in and then it has memory.
- 8:32Um whereas the one that we had in the
- 8:34show was more done by Ben. So it's like
- 8:37a bit more of an industrial
- 8:39uh process and then it was done by
- 8:41machine pleading. Whereas this is hand
- 8:44pleading. So everything is pleated by
- 8:46hand onto the carcass of the shape and
- 8:49then stitched down to keep the the
- 8:52shape.
- 8:54>> And when I when I saw the twile of it on
- 8:56then I then I was like okay we have to
- 8:57open the the women's wear show with a a
- 8:59kind of shorter version of it. But I was
- 9:02like this is why
- 9:06Dior is Dior
- 9:07>> and this is why Dior couture
- 9:10>> needs to exist in a way
- 9:11>> needs to exist because they are
- 9:15practicing a skill that if we if you
- 9:18don't practice would disappear you know
- 9:20because I think what people forget in
- 9:22couture is that everything is done by
- 9:25hand.
- 9:25>> Yeah. So, and what has taken me a bit of
- 9:28time to get used to it is that by doing
- 9:30things by hand, things become a lot
- 9:31rounder, you know, like the seam is a
- 9:34lot rounder. It's less uh flat.
- 9:37Everything becomes slightly more rounded
- 9:40ultimately, which has taken me a bit of
- 9:42time to get used to. M and when you
- 9:45started meeting some of the people in
- 9:46the atelier some of them as you said
- 9:48who've worked with many of your
- 9:50predecessors
- 9:52what surprised you most about their
- 9:55skills the way they work you know their
- 9:58dedication to this craft I think what is
- 10:02interesting is it's like a kind of
- 10:03little mini city of people and like you
- 10:08have like the cheese shop and the
- 10:09butcher
- 10:11that's their little area So they stay in
- 10:14their own like someone who does flu only
- 10:15does flu. Um there is no
- 10:17cross-pollination. It's very like they
- 10:20take on a look and they look after this
- 10:22look through the entire process.
- 10:23>> So it's like super highly specialized
- 10:26>> like to the point where it's sort of
- 10:29certain things have to be given to
- 10:30certain people, right?
- 10:31>> You can't kind of go let's be crazy and
- 10:33move it around.
- 10:35So this for me was like it was quite
- 10:39interesting to meet all these
- 10:40individuals that were all had completely
- 10:42different personalities in very
- 10:45different buildings, you know. So you
- 10:46have like the historical
- 10:49which is above the store. Then you have
- 10:50like four other atilier that are doing
- 10:53like little camps of people
- 10:55>> and then you also have some of the like
- 10:57the embroidery houses and the feather
- 10:59houses and all. So you have all these
- 11:01different people that you they come in
- 11:03and then you're briefing on these tiny
- 11:06little swatches and then they become
- 11:09this, you know, it might be a fabric
- 11:10that I found and then we're trying to
- 11:12like can is there a mill that still even
- 11:15does it?
- 11:16>> Is that for you? I mean, you've worked
- 11:18with so many crafts people and makers
- 11:22>> and artisans over the year. Is it
- 11:26is it intimidating?
- 11:27>> Of course it was. I think I'm still
- 11:30intimidated until the show is done. I
- 11:32feel like a bit, as you said, a bit
- 11:34impostor. Like it's
- 11:37>> um I think people don't comprehend until
- 11:41you're there's not many houses. There's
- 11:44probably five or six houses in the world
- 11:47at this scale.
- 11:49>> Yeah.
- 11:49>> Then there's only so many houses that do
- 11:51couture. Yeah.
- 11:52>> Which is this other layer of
- 11:56um the world of a brand.
- 11:59So you it's it's um
- 12:03it takes time to uh in a weird way go
- 12:07into this ecosystem
- 12:10and you have to be able to perform like
- 12:13that which is uh very scary and quite
- 12:18intimidating but for me it's what I I I
- 12:22feel that I learned when I was at Lev is
- 12:24you have to start somewhere and in a
- 12:26weird way it's about progression. You
- 12:28have to learn through it and once you've
- 12:31if I go to work and it becomes a formula
- 12:34then you get bored and then you don't
- 12:35enjoy it. So in a weird way
- 12:37>> everything I do at the moment is for the
- 12:39first time. So it'll be the first
- 12:42couture. It's the first year is going to
- 12:44be everything first. So you're and
- 12:47you're meeting hundreds and hundreds and
- 12:49hundreds of people and they're trying to
- 12:52in a weird way grab a hold of this like
- 12:54running buffalo like I'm trying to grab
- 12:57on to it and stay on it. So
- 13:01it's it's it's for me. Yeah, it's
- 13:03incredibly int I think couture adds this
- 13:05other weird
- 13:07um and I would never really care but
- 13:09weirdly when you're inside the house I'm
- 13:11in Paris there is a kind of um it comes
- 13:15with a different thing.
- 13:17>> Did they ever did you ever come with an
- 13:18idea and they said no that's just not
- 13:20possible or are they're able to do
- 13:22anything?
- 13:23>> They're able to do anything. That's what
- 13:25there's never no there in a weird way.
- 13:28It was like for me it's nearly like
- 13:30cars. It's like here is an archetype for
- 13:33a brand new car and it it may never be
- 13:36able to go on the road but we are going
- 13:38to make it happen. You know I quite like
- 13:40the you know it's like in fabric you'll
- 13:43be like do you think we can reproduce
- 13:46this 16th century fabric? We won't be
- 13:49able to get it like this, but we will be
- 13:51able to do it like this. Or we will get
- 13:53a mill that can reopen looms to do it.
- 13:56>> That might be that must be quite
- 13:57refreshing. Yeah.
- 13:59>> As a creative person, cuz you hear no a
- 14:01lot normally, right? I
- 14:02>> And it's the one part of the business
- 14:03where there is no no because it's just
- 14:05about sheer creativity and making.
- 14:08>> Wow. So, it's very kind of like and we
- 14:10changed the the kind of um the calendar
- 14:14for it because I was just like I I
- 14:16cannot do a couture show in 30 days like
- 14:18it's just impossible. So, I was like
- 14:20let's change it into like a six month
- 14:22cycle. So,
- 14:23>> which is kind of the old way of doing
- 14:26things, right?
- 14:27>> And we just work on it like we, you
- 14:29know, for me it was like okay, this is
- 14:30we're going to do a project with
- 14:31Magdalene. I want it to be about form. I
- 14:34want to be about these three different
- 14:35things. Off we go. And in a weird way
- 14:40then you enjoy the look and through the
- 14:43process I'm enjoying kind of like
- 14:46rejecting it or embracing it or kind of
- 14:48do we want to add more? Do we want to
- 14:50take you know so it's a kind of like an
- 14:53experimentation for me. Is it going to
- 14:55be a lab?
- 14:56>> And and I think because of designers
- 14:59that have been there before like John
- 15:02Christian D himself,
- 15:04they have opened the door of this idea
- 15:07of like fantasy and I was thinking to
- 15:10myself like
- 15:12why why do people come to Dior for
- 15:14fantasy, you know, like but ultimately
- 15:16it was birthed out of the idea of
- 15:18fantasy. It comes out of a troubled
- 15:20period fantasy
- 15:22>> and
- 15:24and I think it's one of the DNAs of the
- 15:27brand. I think people go to it because
- 15:28they want something,
- 15:31you know, a bit romantic. They want it
- 15:33to be a bit over the top. They want it
- 15:36to be about fashion. So,
- 15:38>> so for me it's sort of like a it's quite
- 15:40petrifying because you're kind of trying
- 15:41to you've got this like back catalog
- 15:45that is like genius and then you're
- 15:47trying to
- 15:49a respect the codes of the house and
- 15:51then slowly bring codes to me because I
- 15:55think that's been the biggest challenge
- 15:57I think over the last year is dealing
- 15:59with like audience and a business and
- 16:02trying to be like I'm in a bubble but
- 16:05then at the same time I'm trying to
- 16:06listen to outside the bubble where
- 16:09you're kind of going the brand needs
- 16:11this in the moment. I think it's I think
- 16:13this is where couture has been kind of a
- 16:16bit like um
- 16:18uh an escape because it's sort of a bit
- 16:22more kind of where I can kind of sit and
- 16:25spend time in the evening going through
- 16:27the archive going through how do we
- 16:29develop every single fabric from
- 16:31scratch? How do we develop every shoe
- 16:34last from scratch? So
- 16:36that you cannot do in a month that takes
- 16:396 months.
- 16:40>> Right. You said just now a lab. Tell me
- 16:44more about that. How is it a lab for you
- 16:46as you think about this lab in the in
- 16:50the kind of wider Dior universe? Yeah,
- 16:53because I think we can run it over 6
- 16:54months and then what while we're kind of
- 16:56testing like weird and wonderful things
- 16:58like it can be in bags, it can be in
- 17:00shoes, it could be in a last, it could
- 17:02be bonding techniques, it could be
- 17:04hands, it can be so many aspects, but
- 17:07you might learn something through that
- 17:09and then you go actually we've we've
- 17:12opened all these looms now. we might as
- 17:15well use that into men's or and get like
- 17:20like utilize it because now that we have
- 17:23it, we can then we know that we can do
- 17:25that fabric. So, okay, we'll put that
- 17:27in. Let's experiment with bags that make
- 17:30are gestural bags that make no sense in
- 17:32the everyday world, but they're kind of
- 17:33an interesting object, but there might
- 17:35be something in hardware or
- 17:37construction. Okay, let's maybe try that
- 17:39into it. So for me it's more kind of
- 17:43uh a thought process that I think can be
- 17:46interesting.
- 17:47>> It feels to me like you've always kind
- 17:49of worked that way. Never with these
- 17:51kind of resources like you've always had
- 17:53this approach of like doing something
- 17:56quite experimental and then somehow
- 17:59maybe it turns into something that
- 18:00>> something that sells.
- 18:02>> Yeah. Um, but I think what is because
- 18:06you're in a weird way you're kind of
- 18:07like this allows in a weird way two
- 18:09blocks of continuity throughout the
- 18:12year,
- 18:12>> those two six month blocks
- 18:14>> where inside of that you have like two
- 18:16men's, you got two pre-colctions, you
- 18:18got two ready toear collections and then
- 18:20you have prefalls and capsules. So in a
- 18:24weird way it kind of for me this becomes
- 18:27the backbone of the brand.
- 18:29>> Yeah. And then it then breaks up the
- 18:32creative cycle. So, and that's why I
- 18:35think for me it's sort of going into
- 18:38next year, it's it when this comes out
- 18:41will be next year, but
- 18:42>> happy new year.
- 18:43>> Happy new year. Um, it's sort of it for
- 18:46me it's sort of nice to kind of start
- 18:49the I like to start a year as a year
- 18:52because in a weird way I came in midway
- 18:54in the year and it's really nice to go
- 18:56this is going to be like men's then
- 18:59couture then the women's then it'll be
- 19:02um the resort then it will be the
- 19:05woman's it means I can go through the
- 19:07cycle again.
- 19:08>> Yeah. But with um
- 19:13fabrics are mine or shoas are m you know
- 19:16like you're trying to
- 19:19um build your own library
- 19:22>> but what you realize when you're in a
- 19:24house like Dior
- 19:26you want to get them so that they're
- 19:28long-term things I want them you know I
- 19:30think
- 19:31>> in the way I had it start from nothing.
- 19:33>> Yeah. here. I'm coming in on like
- 19:36everyone has like a vision of Dior. Do
- 19:41you know what I mean?
- 19:42>> And that's this whole thing about like
- 19:43how much do you think about what people
- 19:47outside this bubble want and how much
- 19:49how much do you feel like
- 19:53kind of confined by the archive, right?
- 19:56And how much do you lean into your own
- 19:58creative instincts? I think for me,
- 20:03I think I had two months of this year
- 20:05where I was just like it was like kind
- 20:07of um being in a kind of sound cooker of
- 20:12information. You have like you're a
- 20:14looking at the business, you're b
- 20:16looking at like what you want to bring
- 20:18to it. You're kind of closing off a
- 20:19chapter in um in a brand that you're 11
- 20:22years. You're trying to uh I had
- 20:25rebranded and rechanged JW to be honest.
- 20:29We were trying to like put all these
- 20:32kind of components together and at the
- 20:34same time I was trying to think what do
- 20:36I do in Dior that ultimately creates a
- 20:40blank space
- 20:43and that's what the shows were about. It
- 20:45was it was to try to kind of propose a
- 20:48question to myself and pose a question
- 20:49to the audience which is like well what
- 20:51do we see Dior as
- 20:54>> you know um because I think as a
- 20:57designer I I don't I don't work in um
- 21:02for me it's not I will build a vibe or a
- 21:05a kind of culture around a brand but
- 21:08then
- 21:09everything will be different you know
- 21:12you will have bags and you will have
- 21:13core product that
- 21:16But the energy of a different
- 21:23>> how do you get the system to work around
- 21:25that when it was doing more of a um uh a
- 21:31singular kind of look. So you're trying
- 21:33to go okay well I want couture to go
- 21:34this way and I want men's to go that way
- 21:35and I want so that
- 21:37>> but they all also have to be
- 21:38>> they have to be linked. Yeah.
- 21:40>> So you're trying to work out how do you
- 21:43cross-pollinate all this so that there
- 21:44is a language that is built.
- 21:46>> So
- 21:48>> and I think it takes time. I think that
- 21:50I think that's what I realized with
- 21:51noise today is that um
- 21:58I know what is right because that's why
- 22:00I'm here to do the job. And you have to
- 22:02kind of in the morning remind yourself
- 22:04that
- 22:06you have to take the journey that is
- 22:09right for the brand that you're in, not
- 22:11for what is needed.
- 22:14>> It's very easy to hype something. But I
- 22:16think when you're dealing with structure
- 22:18and you're dealing with collection
- 22:20planning and you have to deal with that.
- 22:23>> Yeah.
- 22:23>> Because that is the real part. That's
- 22:25the realism. That's the stuff that no
- 22:26one wants to know about. But ultimately
- 22:28if you don't then you will have that
- 22:30bite you on the other side if you don't.
- 22:32So I'm trying to kind of
- 22:34>> with Deline work like put down like
- 22:38concrete blocks, you know, some will end
- 22:40up being sand and then you'll have to
- 22:42rebuild it. But you're trying to build
- 22:44solid platforms like industrialization,
- 22:48you know, different manufacturing back,
- 22:50you know, Delphine myself, we can bring
- 22:52a lot more knowledge on bags. Um whereas
- 22:56a ready toear house, not a bag brand,
- 22:57you know, so it's sort of I'm doing the
- 22:59reverse of what LE was. Whether it was a
- 23:01bag bag or putting fashion culture in
- 23:04this is me putting bags into something
- 23:05which has a huge fashion culture. So
- 23:08it's
- 23:09>> um and it's a learning experience. I
- 23:12mean
- 23:14>> so when we were looking just now I was I
- 23:16mean and maybe you can you just kind of
- 23:19walk us through the different elements
- 23:21because there were
- 23:22>> as I expected a whole bunch of you know
- 23:27uh looks.
- 23:28>> Yeah. But alongside all of those looks
- 23:30and some of the processes that you you
- 23:32walked me through, there were also
- 23:34one-of-a-kind pieces. There were bags.
- 23:36There was jewelry. Like the universe of
- 23:38couture, you've expanded it for what at
- 23:41Dior in a way. No,
- 23:43>> I was trying to think of like
- 23:46like when when I was younger, I was
- 23:49always there was these like books which
- 23:50were on designers, little small books
- 23:52you get in libraries and I was always
- 23:53obsessed by like Jean Paul Goier when he
- 23:56would do like a couture show. It would
- 23:57be like
- 23:59it was like an entire theme and it was
- 24:01like you nearly had to buy the entire
- 24:03look to get the vibe. It was like
- 24:05bracelets and shoes and bags and hats
- 24:08and mittens and and and I was thinking
- 24:11like in a weird way you're kind of set
- 24:14you know in couture today there is only
- 24:16so many people in the world can buy
- 24:17couture and this is not uh this is not a
- 24:21secret you know I mean there's a sort of
- 24:23there's always a pinnacle there's always
- 24:24a pinnacle in life so
- 24:27for me it was like well how do I get the
- 24:29same excitement of myself looking at
- 24:31couture of I say something like goier
- 24:33where it's like it's everything you
- 24:36believe in the editorial character you
- 24:39know it's sort of like it's got
- 24:42it's multiple components or it's just a
- 24:45dress you know it and so that's why I
- 24:48was like how do we get bag how do we do
- 24:50bags of couture how do we do jewelry and
- 24:53couture so like in like for example in
- 24:55jewelry I wanted to look at this idea of
- 24:57like using technology and looking at
- 25:00powder coating onto enamel onto onto to
- 25:04aluminum and then using found objects or
- 25:08precious things like we have meteorites
- 25:12that were found in Argentina and then
- 25:14those are going to be mounted onto like
- 25:17carbonized silver. So it's like looking
- 25:20at technology and then something in the
- 25:23outer world that we have no idea what's
- 25:25happening but then you have like cam
- 25:27like Roman cameos that are then mounted
- 25:30on to thing or you have portrait
- 25:32miniatures you know that are then re
- 25:36combined. So that was like something
- 25:37where I thought okay well if you're
- 25:39going to buy a piece of couture jewelry
- 25:41it should have some sort of like story
- 25:44behind it. Jine, that's sort of like I'd
- 25:47never touched a meteorite. Here was
- 25:48meteorites. We're going to use it. You
- 25:50know, it's sort of like
- 25:52>> it sort of it has like a kind of a
- 25:54talking point or like something you kind
- 25:56of like curiosity
- 25:57>> and it's still precious because I don't
- 25:59know about the availability of
- 26:01meteorites, but like feels like very
- 26:03very rare.
- 26:05>> They're rare, but they're not as they're
- 26:07not as crazy. Um like some of them can
- 26:09be. they're like this big, but when
- 26:11they're this small, it's, you know, it's
- 26:13not so bad. And I quite like that. It's
- 26:16sort of like
- 26:17>> there is a childlike curiosity in the
- 26:19idea. It's like I remember as a kid, you
- 26:21used to get these magazines where you
- 26:22get like stones in them each month and
- 26:24you would like you buy the magazine,
- 26:26they come with like a stone in it and
- 26:27then you would like collect all the
- 26:28stones. Mhm.
- 26:29>> So it was like for me it was like that
- 26:31was what jewelry was going to be about
- 26:32like you know like all these kind of
- 26:35like
- 26:37antiquities reformed into something and
- 26:40then bags became split into two parts.
- 26:42One was going to is to do with like what
- 26:45is upycling in a couture way do you mean
- 26:48like what what is that today?
- 26:50>> So it's like the reusing of raw material
- 26:53is one. Then there's like looking at
- 26:5618th century or 16th century French
- 26:58fabrics found where every single piece
- 27:02we have like when you buy the bag you
- 27:04get the history of that piece of fabric
- 27:06what mill it was made in if it was made
- 27:08in Leo if it was made in like a certain
- 27:11type of loom. So each bag comes with a
- 27:14kind of like a list of components of
- 27:16like the history of that textile how
- 27:18weird
- 27:19>> it's the provenence basically. Yeah. And
- 27:21I think in a weird way
- 27:24that's what I want to bring to it. It's
- 27:26like that's what I when I buy a piece of
- 27:29art or I buy a ceramic
- 27:31you're trying to find newness in
- 27:33something that is old or you're
- 27:35collecting something in period. So it
- 27:37was how do you merge that? So it's sort
- 27:39of like and we might learn something
- 27:42through industrialization and handmake
- 27:46of say the Lydior where we're kind of
- 27:48like we're going to take this textile
- 27:49and we're going to recondition it. what
- 27:52can that be in the bigger ecosystem of
- 27:54the brand start small and work out
- 27:56bigger you know
- 27:58>> um so that was a kind of like take on
- 28:00accessories and then you know shoes for
- 28:02me I wanted complete new last from
- 28:04scratch
- 28:05>> like where it was like we're going to
- 28:06like meticulously spend 6 months until
- 28:09we get
- 28:10>> that incredible curved heel that we saw.
- 28:12Yeah.
- 28:12>> And it was like for me Dior like you
- 28:15have Vivier who does these amazing shoes
- 28:19and I've always been obsessy. He always
- 28:20has he had this leaned um angled shoe
- 28:23and I was like, well, what happens if it
- 28:25was more modular? If it was like the
- 28:27entire back of a shoe is a heel.
- 28:30>> So theoretically,
- 28:32>> you know, someone could buy just a
- 28:34couture shoe or just a piece of jewelry
- 28:36or just one of those upcycled
- 28:39>> Yeah.
- 28:39>> bags.
- 28:40>> And I think there's a way then that you
- 28:42can enter couture on different
- 28:47levels. Do you mean some people don't
- 28:48want an entire dress? You know, some
- 28:50people want to have like an object that
- 28:53mean, you know, I was trying to work out
- 28:56how I would buy into it. I was thinking
- 28:57I would want like a really nice bracelet
- 29:00or I would want,
- 29:01>> you know, what would I as a guy want
- 29:03from it.
- 29:04>> Um, and I think this was the kind of
- 29:07thinking which was more about this like
- 29:09kind of
- 29:10>> eccentricities within couture and this
- 29:13idea of the nuance of it.
- 29:15>> Yeah.
- 29:17So another big change that you're making
- 29:20is with
- 29:22the interaction with clients and beyond.
- 29:26>> Yeah.
- 29:27>> Um how much did you think about the
- 29:29couture
- 29:31client as you did this? Like did you
- 29:34meet anybody?
- 29:35>> I went and met some of the bigger the
- 29:38biggest clients I have and I just got
- 29:40back from China and I met some more
- 29:42there. I met someone in America and I
- 29:44have been kind of like working out who
- 29:46else do I want to attract to the brand
- 29:48as well and it was just interesting to
- 29:50kind of think of different like it was a
- 29:53different mindset than I was like you
- 29:55know it was really interesting to speak
- 29:56to
- 29:57>> how was it different
- 29:58>> because they wanted it's either they
- 30:01wanted it for occasion
- 30:03>> a specific occasion yeah
- 30:05>> and they're thinking in advance like oh
- 30:07well I'm going to this thing and I think
- 30:09this would be or you've got people who
- 30:12actually just collect clothing,
- 30:15who are fascinated in the history of
- 30:17fashion and just collect clothing.
- 30:19And then there's newer people who have
- 30:22just
- 30:23started to un like it's like being part
- 30:27of a world like they they go in to do a
- 30:30fitting and they meet the Itilier. It's
- 30:32like a it's a whole kind of process. And
- 30:34the interesting thing on the first week
- 30:36of working here, I was when I went to
- 30:39the itilier, I was like
- 30:42they were remaking dresses like from
- 30:44like 57 or like the first Dior show or
- 30:49and I was like are they must be for the
- 30:51museum. No, no. What the amazing thing
- 30:53that Dior does, we will remake those
- 30:55dresses for clients. You can order a
- 30:58dress from a show
- 31:01could be 20 years ago, 30 years ago
- 31:03>> and we will make it for you still to
- 31:05this day.
- 31:06>> Wow.
- 31:06>> Which I and and at the same time we will
- 31:09repair
- 31:10those. So it's
- 31:12>> so is that a bit liberating in a way
- 31:14because if someone wants that archival
- 31:17thing that you don't have to recreate
- 31:18that
- 31:19>> you don't have to recreate it and at the
- 31:20same time it does give you a bit of a
- 31:22reality check. turned me that that that
- 31:25these things do stand the test of time.
- 31:27Yeah. You know,
- 31:29>> and then the way you're going to
- 31:30interact with clients and engage clients
- 31:33like this is more than just
- 31:35>> a couture show happening at the muse
- 31:37deod. It's a
- 31:39>> walk us through the whole thing.
- 31:41>> For me, the the show is the the
- 31:43silhouette, the idea, the fallacy, the
- 31:45dream. like here is it in a you know
- 31:4915minute ban
- 31:51which is for a reduced audience because
- 31:53of capacity and ultimately it's a
- 31:55fashion show. After that we then go to
- 31:58the straight after the show I go to the
- 32:00villa and I will set it up into cabinets
- 32:04and you will be able to see every the
- 32:07client will be able to see every single
- 32:08component and it will be laid out in the
- 32:10villa Dior.
- 32:11>> What is the villa Dior? Tell like
- 32:12explain. It's a space that they have for
- 32:14VIC clients and it's a a place where you
- 32:16can kind of you can kind of go there and
- 32:18get made you can get anything made and
- 32:21>> Okay. So, this is a permanent space.
- 32:24>> And what we've done is we have redone it
- 32:26more like a home setting and it's going
- 32:29to be but then it has like you'll have
- 32:31all the jewelry and cases. It will be
- 32:32more laid out like a kind of exhibition.
- 32:34>> So, this is like the Reesei in a way but
- 32:37a much more elevated one. M so it'll be
- 32:40every single detail or you know we will
- 32:43we will introduce the clients over like
- 32:45two hours where we can introduce each
- 32:47product tell them things about they can
- 32:48meet the people of the team so they can
- 32:51meet like Alberto or Yua or like all the
- 32:54guys and will you be there
- 32:55>> and I will be there and then we will
- 32:57kind of do the old school kind of like
- 32:59this is what
- 33:01>> this is what this is about and this is
- 33:02why it is what it is. Um we do that and
- 33:07then it will be x amount of days of
- 33:09selling and then in that period so we
- 33:13will have uh 11 looks will be then in
- 33:16the show venue. So that will happen for
- 33:18clients. So you have the the show, then
- 33:20we have the clients, and then we have
- 33:22the final part, which is the part that
- 33:24I'm most excited about. Um, and this the
- 33:27part that is new for Dior, is that the
- 33:30show venue will then turn into at the
- 33:32Rodan, the the show space will stay um
- 33:36up and it will then be turned into an
- 33:38exhibition which will be on Magdalina
- 33:40Dondu, uh, Christian Dior himself and
- 33:44the new um, couture collection. So that
- 33:48we will then do with school groups, we
- 33:50will do with art students, we will do
- 33:52with general public. Anyone can go, it
- 33:54will be free. And the idea,
- 33:55>> why would you sign up online or
- 33:57something?
- 33:57>> And you just go and see it.
- 33:59>> Why Why did Why did you want to add this
- 34:02third component? And why is it the thing
- 34:04you're most excited about?
- 34:05>> Because I think I was trying to kind of
- 34:07think about what I felt about couture
- 34:09before I got to Dior, which was like
- 34:11why? Um,
- 34:14and I was thinking that if you saw a
- 34:16dress that is
- 34:19taken more than 4,000 hours that one
- 34:22person has meticulously put together,
- 34:24you a photograph is never going to tell
- 34:26you that, you know, you have to kind of
- 34:28see it. And then I wanted to show my
- 34:30influence. I wanted to show that
- 34:32Magdalene is a huge inspiration for this
- 34:35show. you will be able to see what we're
- 34:37doing with her in terms of bags and in
- 34:39terms of other things that we will put
- 34:41on show and then showing
- 34:45from each time we will show from the
- 34:47archive different things. So this one
- 34:48will focus on Christian Dior. So it will
- 34:51have all the forms. It will be Magdalene
- 34:53and Christian Dior in conversation. Wow.
- 34:56>> And what I end up doing is kind of like
- 34:59a catalyst of that.
- 35:01>> So that then you'll see the sketches of
- 35:02Magdalene, you will see the sketches of
- 35:04Dior, you will see the sketches of mine
- 35:06and all mixed together. And then from
- 35:08that, so this is just as important to me
- 35:10as the fashion show because I think it's
- 35:12where
- 35:14there's only so much you can see online.
- 35:17And I think in a weird way, I'm kind of
- 35:19inviting
- 35:21people who want to go and see it to see
- 35:24something physical because it may change
- 35:27your mind, you know, it might change
- 35:29your opinion of it, you know, because I
- 35:31think it's sort of
- 35:33I think the great thing about Dior is
- 35:35Dior does a great exhibition.
- 35:38When I think of great exhibitions in
- 35:39fashion, Dior is very good at an
- 35:41exhibition. So why not exhibit something
- 35:44current as opposed to waiting till like
- 35:47what for a retrospective or something?
- 35:49So you
- 35:49>> because I think it's sort of like this
- 35:51is what clients are seeing and this is
- 35:52what you're seeing in real time. go and
- 35:54see it because now because I think
- 35:58>> you know it's like the opening dress
- 35:59that we were looking at where you have
- 36:01like
- 36:02>> layers it looks so simple
- 36:05>> as a structure but when you realize that
- 36:09underneath is going is like
- 36:12hundreds [snorts] of lines of tool that
- 36:14are all stitched together and then
- 36:15engineered in this way you will see that
- 36:18in the flesh more than you will see in a
- 36:21flat image on the catwalk the catbook of
- 36:24The catwalk can be a bit of a trick and
- 36:26I I I know because as a designer I have
- 36:28had to use that trick. You can use the
- 36:30set as a trick. You can use casting as a
- 36:33trick.
- 36:34>> You can hide many things. You can sell
- 36:36people a kind of flashoint
- 36:39>> but the clothing is not right. No matter
- 36:42what you put around it, it will no
- 36:45matter how much it
- 36:47in the moment. We're so used to fashion
- 36:50right now as we do shows, consume it,
- 36:53and that's it.
- 36:56>> And some people only consume that flat
- 36:58image
- 36:58>> and that's it.
- 36:59>> Yeah.
- 36:59>> And it's kind of weirdly I was talking
- 37:01about it with someone a couple of weeks
- 37:03ago in in real in depth [laughter]
- 37:06over a bottle of wine. Um, which is why
- 37:10I started in fashion. What what I loved
- 37:13about fashion when I was doing windows
- 37:15at Prada was that you would watch a
- 37:18Prada show and then we would have to
- 37:21work with like the team to come up with
- 37:23windows and then you'd have to then
- 37:26foresight the windows coming and in the
- 37:28beginning you would look at the show and
- 37:29you'd be like this is what is that like
- 37:31what is that and then like you would be
- 37:34selling the current collection they were
- 37:35trying to sell the current collection
- 37:36then you would be like slowly the new
- 37:38collection was about to come in six
- 37:39months and then you would be like
- 37:42Oh,
- 37:44I want that now.
- 37:46>> I think what has happened now is we we
- 37:48have we have kind of got into this weird
- 37:51habit where
- 37:53>> we do shows and everything for impact
- 37:56and bam to kind of win
- 38:00people's talking ultimately or like we
- 38:03like we hate we like we hate
- 38:05>> but we don't digest anymore. So we just
- 38:07like we kind of it's like near like
- 38:10that. You put it in your mouth and you
- 38:11spit it out.
- 38:12>> Yeah. It's like perfume. It's like, you
- 38:13know, like when the at the end like in
- 38:15the he gets eaten by everyone.
- 38:17[laughter]
- 38:18>> And but what I love about fashion for me
- 38:22was it's about the future. You you
- 38:24create something, people take time, they
- 38:28distill it, it goes in store, and then
- 38:30you discover it again. So for me this is
- 38:32a kind of a test weirdly to kind of see
- 38:36does it help part of like local or
- 38:39community ultimate to look at it in a
- 38:41different in real time.
- 38:43>> Yeah.
- 38:43>> To maybe go actually it was actually
- 38:45different but not everyone goes to the
- 38:46showroom.
- 38:47>> Yeah.
- 38:48>> You know what I mean?
- 38:49>> Well this helps people I guess they get
- 38:51that chance to digest it. It also makes
- 38:53me think of you know following your
- 38:56ready toear show there was that watch
- 38:58party.
- 38:59>> Yeah. And I feel like there's this thing
- 39:01hap I mean I know Italian Vogue is doing
- 39:03more of this in Milan as well where
- 39:04they're like
- 39:05>> this idea of fashion week just being for
- 39:09insiders and the kind of outsiders get
- 39:11to look at it on social media. There's
- 39:13this movement of like bringing more
- 39:15people in to see it the real bits of it
- 39:18because so much of it then just is
- 39:20consumed on the surface or understood at
- 39:23the surface
- 39:24>> but we don't go deeper. Yeah. And I
- 39:26think I think this is what um I think
- 39:30the learning lesson for me in the
- 39:32process of like
- 39:35and I'm at fault too because I kind of I
- 39:38kind of go oh well Louis was like this
- 39:41it was just was it was but then you
- 39:42realize you were there for 11 years I
- 39:45mean
- 39:45>> so in a weird way I'm expecting 11 years
- 39:47in one year but at the same time the
- 39:50audience is expecting of it like
- 39:53tomorrow.
- 39:54>> Yeah. and you're kind of like you're
- 39:57trying to grapple with where you want to
- 40:00go, what is needed for the business,
- 40:03where the audience is seeing it. And
- 40:04then there comes a moment where you have
- 40:06to just go into the kind of zen-like
- 40:09experience, which is what I'd said
- 40:11earlier, which is like I get up in the
- 40:13morning, I know what I'm doing, and it
- 40:16will be there will be good days and bad
- 40:17days. And I think that's what you start
- 40:19to you start to get a thicker and
- 40:22thicker and thicker skin through the
- 40:23process because you have to because
- 40:26>> you have to always be thinking what is
- 40:29relevant in 6 months.
- 40:30>> Yeah.
- 40:31>> Not right now. You know, it's sort of I
- 40:33think this is the trick. Um
- 40:35>> it it's also like a really challenging
- 40:37time
- 40:38>> for the fashion industry. So I think
- 40:41offering some more texture and more
- 40:43depth helps people to understand
- 40:46>> or being real about it. You know, I feel
- 40:49like a fashion has this thing where I
- 40:51think the audience see um
- 40:55me as a designer and you live this like,
- 40:59you know, you're a designer, so you turn
- 41:00up and it's like I don't know what I
- 41:02don't know what they think sometimes.
- 41:04But the reality of fashion today in the
- 41:08scale of fashion, the media pressure of
- 41:11fashion,
- 41:13um the the um the size of it, it's not
- 41:1810 years ago.
- 41:19>> No,
- 41:20>> fashion has grown like crazy. maybe too
- 41:23much
- 41:24>> and maybe and maybe there might be a
- 41:27kind of um reccaliberization
- 41:30but at the same time the audience is
- 41:33nearly kind of like our approach to
- 41:36Hollywood we don't care we just want the
- 41:37end product
- 41:38>> but at the same time I think we have to
- 41:40kind of um be more uh
- 41:46rational I think in a we have to kind of
- 41:48in a weird way as a system of designers
- 41:50and of brands as much as there is
- 41:52competition and there's like there will
- 41:55always be a sliding scale of things. It
- 41:57will but at the same time if we don't
- 41:59somehow
- 42:01unite behind it change is inevitable and
- 42:05it in I think we think change is just a
- 42:07new thing change has happened in fashion
- 42:09in big cycles like this before the
- 42:12difference we have now is the media
- 42:15exposure on it is ginormous.
- 42:17>> Yeah.
- 42:18>> It is part of the popular conversation.
- 42:20>> Yeah. So, but we forget that because we
- 42:23that's the whole point of fashion is to
- 42:25forget and keep going. Do you know what
- 42:26I mean?
- 42:27>> So, I think it's sort of I think
- 42:29sometimes I I I feel for so many
- 42:32designers because I I know what it's
- 42:34like to go through it. And I do
- 42:36sometimes go
- 42:38there is moments where you go,
- 42:41>> we literally saw you do take that deep
- 42:43exhale on video backstage because it's
- 42:45just so much. Right. Because I think I
- 42:48think for all designers in that season
- 42:51I have never it was nearly like
- 42:55it was the most bizarre moment of my
- 42:57life because it was like the the
- 43:00anticipation of something that you're
- 43:03only starting on a journey of the
- 43:06audience is only just about going for it
- 43:08and you're try and the pressure on it
- 43:11was
- 43:12>> it was that that kind of like release.
- 43:15>> Yeah. Because in the end, as much as I
- 43:17have to be like
- 43:20the designer, the like drive drive you
- 43:23in the end, there is a moment where when
- 43:26you are finished, it is that kind of
- 43:27like nearly handling an exam. You're
- 43:29like,
- 43:31>> well, you're a human, right? And I think
- 43:33I think in the online discourse around
- 43:36fashion and fashion designers and the
- 43:37fact that it's become part of popular
- 43:39culture, part of what's lost is the fact
- 43:42that all of these things that people are
- 43:45saying, all of all of these people
- 43:47>> Yeah.
- 43:47>> humans on like they're humans.
- 43:49>> Yeah.
- 43:50>> And it it's sometimes I know the
- 43:52pressure can be
- 43:53>> but it's kind but I live off pressure.
- 43:56This was a very different type of
- 43:58pressure. And the good thing is it is
- 44:00the it's quite good because it's like
- 44:02behind you. It's like a kind of like
- 44:04it's like okay we just started so we can
- 44:06move on from like
- 44:07>> you know control will be that still
- 44:09thing of the first of it and it will be
- 44:11a
- 44:12>> Yeah.
- 44:13>> But at the same time it it means I can
- 44:15just get on with the job you know
- 44:17because in a weird way it takes time for
- 44:20people to get used to things.
- 44:21>> Yeah. Do you mean like the I think when
- 44:23you look at you know so I remember when
- 44:26I did my first show at the movie people
- 44:28were so not sure about it. I definitely
- 44:30was not sure. I remember but like that
- 44:34took time
- 44:35>> and it took time and you know because
- 44:37that was a business that needed
- 44:38completely restructuring and I think
- 44:41people there is the bigger the brand
- 44:45you realize it is not just a designer
- 44:48there is so many components there's the
- 44:50people do the windows there's a CEO
- 44:52there's the finance person there's a
- 44:54there's a merchant like there's I think
- 44:57you know I was looking at this thing
- 44:58where it's like you know um uh one
- 45:02granny which I think is really good
- 45:03because they're kind of like they're
- 45:04celebrating the people create that's
- 45:06Olia's thing she does they're
- 45:08recognizing all the talent
- 45:09>> all the talent
- 45:10>> but at the same time I was thinking to
- 45:12myself like
- 45:14>> the other people that are part of that
- 45:16is like the people do the window and the
- 45:17people do the merchandising and so
- 45:19they're number crunching it may not be
- 45:20creative but they work in a creative
- 45:22business they have to try to work out
- 45:25>> how to make a designer's dream come true
- 45:29>> and it's sort of like that's where I I
- 45:31think we
- 45:33if we to pull the veil down, you have to
- 45:36do it in all categories because
- 45:38>> a fashion show is not just me. I am just
- 45:42the conductor. I have said this
- 45:44throughout my entire career and the
- 45:46every single person can have their own
- 45:48transparency on it, but you have to do
- 45:50that equally across the board.
- 45:51>> It's that proverbial it takes a village,
- 45:53right? It takes it takes a lot of
- 45:55people. The other thing I just wanted to
- 45:57touch on really quickly is what's really
- 45:59interesting is for the first time the
- 46:01Dior men's show
- 46:03>> and the Dior couture show are going to
- 46:05happen in the same space.
- 46:06>> Yeah.
- 46:07>> And that was that was that out of like
- 46:09pragmatism that you did that is it like
- 46:12you know are we trying to be more budget
- 46:15conscious or
- 46:16>> I don't think it was it was it wasn't to
- 46:18do about budget. It was more to do about
- 46:20like why
- 46:23why in one week should we make
- 46:272,000 chairs?
- 46:29>> Yeah.
- 46:29>> Why don't we just make
- 46:31>> a thousand chairs and use them both in
- 46:33two different contexts?
- 46:34>> Yeah.
- 46:34>> I think it was just trying to work out
- 46:36ways to focus
- 46:39utilize building a tent that the
- 46:41manpower that goes into it in a weird
- 46:43way like a theater.
- 46:44>> Yeah. You do act one, act two,
- 46:47>> and then act three because there's
- 46:48exhibition. Yeah.
- 46:49>> So you take it down and it kind of
- 46:51unfolds. I think it's, you know, I think
- 46:55it's very important that we, as we are
- 46:57all dealing with in every single
- 46:59company, no matter if it's fashion or
- 47:01not, the environmental part of it, you
- 47:04know, we have, you know, most shows that
- 47:06we do, depending on where they are, all
- 47:08that gets reused into the windows. And
- 47:10you know the the the ceiling for couture
- 47:12will then go to Venice for fine jewelry.
- 47:15>> So a lot of it's going to get reused.
- 47:17>> Yeah. Because the amount of work that
- 47:20goes into it like
- 47:21>> to make a chrome chair it takes 6 months
- 47:25to get it done you know like it's like a
- 47:27piece of furniture like it's sort of
- 47:29like you know like with the men the
- 47:30chairs that we're using in this are the
- 47:33chairs that we've been using for the
- 47:34last two shows. They've just been now
- 47:36chroned.
- 47:37>> Okay. So that already I've been able to
- 47:39get I will get four shows out of one
- 47:42chair
- 47:42>> right
- 47:43>> whereas in the past it would have been
- 47:45>> it would have been like bye-bye
- 47:47>> you know so I think this is where I
- 47:50think
- 47:51it's all each thing has to be a learning
- 47:55when you learn something then you put it
- 47:57into the system and it becomes part of
- 47:59your vocabulary and I think
- 48:03as much as everyone else is looking at
- 48:05it I am thinking about that every Hey,
- 48:07like you know what do I do to try to
- 48:09make it uh costefficient? What am I
- 48:12thinking to do it where it's
- 48:14environmentally friendly? How can I
- 48:17get
- 48:19more like younger people involved? You
- 48:23know what I mean? For me, like I've
- 48:24always believed inside the teams,
- 48:26>> especially in the web and especially
- 48:27here, it's like
- 48:29>> the younger the talent, the more
- 48:31opportunity, the more that younger
- 48:33talent can learn inside a brand like I
- 48:35did, then the better this industry will
- 48:37become.
- 48:38>> So for me, Dior is
- 48:42is is such a big kind of metropolis that
- 48:45it can have so many aspects of that. So,
- 48:48and this takes time and I think um and
- 48:52that's what I find exciting the most is
- 48:54that
- 48:56you have you have to kind of set out
- 48:58your your own kind of private vision for
- 49:02the future and then you cannot do it
- 49:05overnight. You have to guess slowly kind
- 49:07of be like, okay, we're going to sort
- 49:08this out and then we're going to get
- 49:09this
- 49:10>> and if it doesn't happen this season,
- 49:11we'll get it next season. You know, I
- 49:14think if we take that approach, then I
- 49:16think we can get to a better solution in
- 49:19the end. And I think with like when I
- 49:21look at back at my time at Lov, I think
- 49:24I think it's a beautiful brand. No
- 49:27matter if I was there or not, it's a
- 49:28beautiful brand. And I think Dior has
- 49:32that and you've got to kind of take it
- 49:35on to the future again. So you've got
- 49:38>> and you probably didn't know when you
- 49:40started at Lee where it would end up. So
- 49:42this is a journey, right?
- 49:43>> So I I have no idea and I think that's
- 49:46what I love about what I do. I think
- 49:48that's what all designers love. It is
- 49:49about in the end
- 49:53it is about creation.
- 49:56>> But I have to have the responsibility to
- 50:01the hund thousands of people who work
- 50:03here to make sure it works.
- 50:05>> You know what I mean? So I have to kind
- 50:07of bal it's a balancing act. So it's
- 50:10sort of like you're trying to kind of
- 50:12make sure that the customer that is
- 50:13existing who is loyal to the brand which
- 50:15has evolved over the years
- 50:18meets with my new aesthetic. And you
- 50:21don't want it to be like hot and cold
- 50:23water. You know I've I always have this
- 50:25like vision of like when I started this
- 50:29brand and then I started to work in it.
- 50:30It's like there's always this like
- 50:32Instagram video of like I think it's
- 50:34like two it's like salt water and like
- 50:36um
- 50:39natural water meeting and how they don't
- 50:41mix.
- 50:42>> You don't want that in store.
- 50:44>> Yeah. So like you have to be able to
- 50:45cater to
- 50:47the current client base which is why
- 50:49those meetings you had are important but
- 50:51you're also trying to cater to new
- 50:53clients who are trying to bring into the
- 50:54business. That's a fine balance right
- 50:56balance. So you're trying to keep people
- 50:57like slightly entertained. You're trying
- 50:59to keep this. You're trying to um But
- 51:02you have to do that. The brand Dior is
- 51:05is not the size of Louis.
- 51:07>> Yeah.
- 51:08>> It is, you know, Dior is it is a a is a
- 51:12big machine
- 51:13>> and it has a big audience
- 51:17>> that expects certain things from from a
- 51:19brand's
- 51:20>> heritage, you know. So,
- 51:23so you you become quite um
- 51:27uh it's very grounding the process I
- 51:31think you know because it's it's not
- 51:34>> um everything is a learning experience
- 51:36and I think that is
- 51:38>> can be tough on days I am only human but
- 51:42at the same time it is incredibly
- 51:43rewarding because you're kind of like
- 51:45you're you're you know it's like couture
- 51:47I have never I've never worked with
- 51:50tillia like that I've done that bags
- 51:52with it at it till of that of that
- 51:54scale. But in clothing I had
- 51:56>> I had a very good atilier but this is a
- 51:58kind of different scale.
- 52:00>> So let's go back to the very beginning
- 52:03because when you walked in to the
- 52:06atelier you had a meeting with John
- 52:10Galliano
- 52:11and
- 52:13>> he brought some cichlomen Yeah. flowers
- 52:16in and I'm curious if you tell us that
- 52:19story but also
- 52:21>> yeah tell us that story for
- 52:23>> so I had I I had finished the woman's
- 52:25collection and a week before the show I
- 52:30because of the noise and the nervousness
- 52:32of the whole thing I had asked Olivier
- 52:36do you think John would come to see the
- 52:39collection before I go and do press
- 52:41previews I would like him to see it
- 52:43because when I was at university. He was
- 52:46like a hero like he and still to this
- 52:48day as a hero and he is Dior in the
- 52:52public imagination still to this day,
- 52:54you know, because what he built was like
- 52:57this big, you know, in in the kind of
- 53:00rebirth of fashion because in a weird
- 53:02way after the 80s, fashion then suddenly
- 53:06became part of the popular culture
- 53:07again, you know, like it kind of just
- 53:09ballooned.
- 53:11So I was like, would he come anyway? And
- 53:14John very kindly agreed to coming. And
- 53:17when he turned up, I have I've only met
- 53:18him twice in my life. First when I
- 53:21joined Lefay and and then here and he
- 53:23came um with his wonderful boyfriend and
- 53:27>> Alexi.
- 53:27>> Alexi and they turned up and I just
- 53:32thought it was like I really loved him
- 53:35being even though this is not the
- 53:37building he was in, I loved him being
- 53:39back in Dior. Do you mean I I you know
- 53:42for me it was just like it was like it
- 53:45was like a kind of like I felt like I
- 53:47was like oh
- 53:49>> full circle moment.
- 53:50>> It was a full circle moment of being
- 53:52like a student and then looking up to
- 53:54him and still to this day look up to him
- 53:58and then he he came with these two
- 54:00bunches of cichl wild cichlemen that he
- 54:03had like kind of tied um black ribbon
- 54:06around and they were like perfect. And
- 54:08then he had this like bag of um uh food
- 54:12from Tesco, of like sweets and crisps
- 54:14and Doritos and things like that for the
- 54:17team. And we had this great chat and it
- 54:20was just it was a very kind of calming
- 54:24process in something where you're kind
- 54:26of like walking into something
- 54:30there's not many people would understand
- 54:33but him. And um and I because the the
- 54:38because these cichlmen I just I found
- 54:41them the most I love wild cichlemen when
- 54:43you go at like at you know about two
- 54:47months ago you will see it all
- 54:48underneath the forest floor
- 54:51and it's a plant that always reminds me
- 54:53of my childhood and then he he brought
- 54:56them and then they went into these two
- 54:57things. I was like they became this sort
- 55:00of like talismatic kind of thing that I
- 55:02was like I'm very superstitious and I
- 55:05was like okay that is the starting point
- 55:07for this collection as a kind of pink
- 55:10and black you know
- 55:12>> it was like
- 55:13>> it was nearly like a kind of like uh
- 55:17meant to be and then it became the the
- 55:20ceiling of the entire uh
- 55:22>> so like that show is uh the under of
- 55:26forest where they Bro, it's all in
- 55:28mirror. The invitation is an entire
- 55:31remake of the posie in a box but real.
- 55:34The head pieces are where like the we
- 55:37have embroidered all the flowers
- 55:39individually by hand. So they're like
- 55:41these kind of toughs. They're they are
- 55:43the gift and then you would put it on
- 55:45because what I love about John is that
- 55:48it is emotional. Everything is like a
- 55:51kind of an emotional jet. He he is when
- 55:55I have ever received flowers, the best
- 55:57flowers are from Jungalena. They are
- 55:59like perfect like everything is like
- 56:03there is an etiquette and there is a
- 56:06kindness and I was just so that's where
- 56:09it all started and I think
- 56:10>> that's amazing. It's like 360 for myself
- 56:15and it's and it's sort of um
- 56:19and when you meet a hero like that in
- 56:22the job that he did when you go to the
- 56:25museum and you see and every single
- 56:27person probably listening,
- 56:29you know, he changed fashion and and I
- 56:32want I wanted to bring him back in and
- 56:36you know, you need the advice from
- 56:37someone like that, especially in a house
- 56:39like Dior. Did he give you any advice?
- 56:42>> The the one line that I think was
- 56:44because he's John is incredibly
- 56:47intelligent was
- 56:49the more that you love Dior the brand,
- 56:53the more it will give you back.
- 56:57>> Interesting. What do you think he meant
- 56:59by that?
- 57:00>> I think it's the more that you love the
- 57:02people in it, the more that you give
- 57:03into it, the more that you kind of
- 57:05>> the more it will give you it will tell
- 57:07you what to do.
- 57:09And I think
- 57:12and I think I do use that like and
- 57:15sometimes you you need these little like
- 57:18you need these little tidbits of advice
- 57:20from people because it is daunting and
- 57:24you need these little things to kind of
- 57:26make you feel okay I am going in the
- 57:28right direction or maybe I'm not you
- 57:30know it sort of and I think it was a
- 57:34I needed to I needed to do that you know
- 57:36sometimes you have to do these certain
- 57:38things to kind of um
- 57:42actually just to just to be in reality.
- 57:46>> Mhm.
- 57:47>> You know, it's sort of like when you
- 57:49have this like mountain
- 57:52o of a creative like um Galliano, it is
- 57:57better to kind of confront it and be at
- 58:00one with it than kind of be petrified of
- 58:02it, you know. And um and for me, Dior,
- 58:06as much as Christian Dior started the
- 58:07brand, Dior for me when I was young was
- 58:11John Aliano. So, and I think for a lot
- 58:13of people it is, you know. So,
- 58:16>> it was great. It was a
- 58:19it was humbling in a in a
- 58:22>> it's a really beautiful moment and it's
- 58:25a beautiful sentiment and it feels like
- 58:27you have put a ton of love into this.
- 58:30>> Yeah. and you've made it accessible
- 58:33to so many more people
- 58:35um than would normally have been able to
- 58:37experience your couture. So, I can't
- 58:40wait to see the show.
- 58:42>> I can't wait to see it all come to life.
- 58:44I'm so grateful that you shared so much
- 58:47of that with me
- 58:49>> before the show and [music]
- 58:52>> by the time this conversation comes out,
- 58:54it will have been the collection will
- 58:56have been out in the world. [music]
- 58:57But um yeah, I I can't wait to see it.
- 59:00Congratulations.
- 59:01>> Thank you very much for coming. All
- 59:02right.
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