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Jonathan Anderson on Refashioning the House of Dior | The BoF Podcast — Transcript

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  1. 0:04Hi, this is Imran Ahmed, founder and CEO
  2. 0:07of the business of fashion. Welcome to a
  3. 0:09special episode of the BOF [music]
  4. 0:11podcast. It's Monday, January 26th.
  5. 0:14Jonathan Anderson's oat couture debut
  6. 0:17for Dior, which took place earlier today
  7. 0:20at the Musea Rodan in Paris, [music] was
  8. 0:22perhaps the most anticipated moment so
  9. 0:25far in his bid to re-energize the luxury
  10. 0:28mega brand. In December, I joined
  11. 0:30Jonathan in Paris [music] just as that
  12. 0:32collection was coming together to learn
  13. 0:34how he's reimagining couture as a
  14. 0:37creative laboratory that [music] feeds
  15. 0:39the entire maison, and to reflect on his
  16. 0:42journey at Dior thus far. [music] In
  17. 0:44this exclusive interview, Jonathan talks
  18. 0:46about why couture still needs to exist,
  19. 0:49how endangered craft can be protected,
  20. 0:52and the very human reality of leading a
  21. 0:54global fashion machine like Christian
  22. 0:56Dior. [music]
  23. 0:57Here's Jonathan Anderson on the BOF
  24. 1:00podcast.
  25. 1:02Jonathan Anderson,
  26. 1:04welcome to the BOF podcast.
  27. 1:06>> Thank you very much for having me.
  28. 1:08>> Do you know I I was thinking, do you
  29. 1:10remember we sat down for that
  30. 1:12conversation
  31. 1:14when you
  32. 1:16were just moving into your like first
  33. 1:19post LVMH JW Anderson offices? I think
  34. 1:22that was what year was it that
  35. 1:25>> used?
  36. 1:26>> That was in I'm trying to work out which
  37. 1:28building. I think that was in Shackle
  38. 1:29Lane.
  39. 1:30>> Yeah. Or something like that.
  40. 1:31>> And that was just when they LVMH had
  41. 1:34invested in JW Anderson. So that was
  42. 1:38>> that was 10 years ago.
  43. 1:39>> Wow.
  44. 1:40>> Yeah.
  45. 1:40>> Okay. So it's been it's been 10 years
  46. 1:43coming. We're sitting here in
  47. 1:47the space where
  48. 1:50typically you were doing your men's
  49. 1:52collections.
  50. 1:52>> Yeah.
  51. 1:53>> But now you're doing old couture
  52. 1:54fittings here as well.
  53. 1:56>> Yeah. And women's.
  54. 1:57>> And women's. And it's December
  55. 2:0116th.
  56. 2:02>> Yeah.
  57. 2:02>> So by the time this comes out, it's
  58. 2:04going to be many, many weeks later. But
  59. 2:06it's it was really cool just now to have
  60. 2:08a look through
  61. 2:09>> Yeah.
  62. 2:11all of your ideas and how you're
  63. 2:12thinking about couture,
  64. 2:15your first couture collection. And I I
  65. 2:17guess I wanted to start with
  66. 2:23when you when you're thinking about, you
  67. 2:25know, you have these 18 collections
  68. 2:27you're doing. You know, some of them are
  69. 2:28for Jonathan Anderson or JW Anderson,
  70. 2:30some of them are
  71. 2:32>> for for Dior. What what do you see as
  72. 2:36the purpose of couture
  73. 2:38>> first for you as a creative person
  74. 2:41>> and then also in this
  75. 2:45massive enterprise that is Dior like
  76. 2:48what's the goal or the purpose of
  77. 2:50couture?
  78. 2:51>> Well, it's the first if someone had
  79. 2:53asked me about a year and a half ago
  80. 2:56about couture I would have been like I I
  81. 2:59had never projected myself into couture.
  82. 3:02I never really understood it and I would
  83. 3:05have probably nonchalant would have said
  84. 3:09something like well I think it's
  85. 3:10irrelevant or something really I
  86. 3:13probably would have said something like
  87. 3:14that
  88. 3:16>> why
  89. 3:16>> because I I I I never really understood
  90. 3:19it. I never understood the glamour
  91. 3:20behind it. you know, there was there's
  92. 3:23always something very glamorous or
  93. 3:24something very kind of um at bay or
  94. 3:30something with the the idea of the
  95. 3:32hierarchy of fashion.
  96. 3:34>> And now,
  97. 3:35>> and now I have a completely different
  98. 3:38understanding of it. I feel like I'm
  99. 3:40doing I kind of joke every time I'm in a
  100. 3:42fitting. I feel like I'm doing like a
  101. 3:44PhD um in couture because I I have an
  102. 3:47amazing atilier and it's every day you
  103. 3:52are learning the process of something
  104. 3:56that has been done
  105. 3:58for so long in France. I mean it's it is
  106. 4:01a kind of it's an institution in itself.
  107. 4:04There's rules. there's um there's so
  108. 4:07many different things you can and cannot
  109. 4:09do and and in a weird way I was trying
  110. 4:13to work out how do I approach that or
  111. 4:15something or how do I how can I relate
  112. 4:18to it or something I I was at the
  113. 4:20beginning I found it very difficult to
  114. 4:21relate to until they did one dress and
  115. 4:24then I was like okay I'm kind of
  116. 4:25addicted so
  117. 4:27>> and so the purpose of couture like you
  118. 4:30know in the in the like reinvention that
  119. 4:32you're you're bringing to Dior like now
  120. 4:35that you've understood it a bit and
  121. 4:38you've seen the insight like how do you
  122. 4:39see it fitting into what
  123. 4:41>> you're doing here?
  124. 4:42>> Well, for me it's it's a kind of like
  125. 4:44it's a very emotional process actually.
  126. 4:47I find it quite emotional because I
  127. 4:49think it's sort of like
  128. 4:51it is something that is steeped in
  129. 4:52history and people who have been working
  130. 4:55for many many designers inside this
  131. 4:57house who are still here. So you in a
  132. 5:00weird way you have to go into kind of
  133. 5:01like like performative mode that yes I
  134. 5:04can do this and at the same time being
  135. 5:06like I'm totally confused
  136. 5:08>> like imposttor syndrome.
  137. 5:09>> Yeah. Um but I was trying to think about
  138. 5:12like you know couture itself and I was
  139. 5:15trying to work on how do we reframe the
  140. 5:18narrative of all of it and I was
  141. 5:21thinking of things I like in craft and
  142. 5:23what I have done in craft over the last
  143. 5:2510 years in my previous job and I was
  144. 5:27thinking couture is kind of like an
  145. 5:29endangered craft you know as a kind of
  146. 5:32as a mindset a mythology and making with
  147. 5:35hand and I was thinking
  148. 5:39Well, in a weird way, what Dior is doing
  149. 5:41and other couture houses, which there's
  150. 5:43not very many left are kind of
  151. 5:46protecting this endangered craft as a
  152. 5:49kind of national symbol ultimately of uh
  153. 5:53of making. And I once I kind of was got
  154. 5:57into that mind space then I was able to
  155. 6:00work out okay well what do I want from
  156. 6:01it or what is new for Dior ultimately in
  157. 6:05a in a kind of landscape that's had
  158. 6:08some of my heroes in it from you
  159. 6:12>> and so when you first
  160. 6:16kind of stepped into the atelier and you
  161. 6:19kind of were trying to figure out what
  162. 6:22you where you were going to start was
  163. 6:23there
  164. 6:24>> what was the first image or idea that
  165. 6:27was lodged in your creative brain that
  166. 6:30you that was what was the starting point
  167. 6:32basically? I think my my starting point
  168. 6:34was one of my dearest friends is Marilyn
  169. 6:36Leondu who I have worked with many times
  170. 6:40and for me
  171. 6:43I think her vessels for me are the idea
  172. 6:46of form and silhouette. And I was
  173. 6:49thinking like that is what Dior was so
  174. 6:51great at is in the silhouette like the
  175. 6:54the sketch.
  176. 6:56And um I have this like one vase that I
  177. 6:59like I love of hers which for me was
  178. 7:01always like a body and she always she
  179. 7:03always jokes and she's always like well
  180. 7:05for me that vase is like Naomi Campbell
  181. 7:07and I was like okay well what what is a
  182. 7:09dress that is a vase that ultimately is
  183. 7:11Naomi Campbell and what is that in in
  184. 7:14couture? So there was like this kind of
  185. 7:16So I kind of showed them this vessel and
  186. 7:18I was like I like the idea of it was
  187. 7:20pleated and it looked like it was being
  188. 7:23spun like as if like the movement of
  189. 7:25clay as you build it.
  190. 7:27>> Yeah.
  191. 7:28>> And it's I don't really sketch but it
  192. 7:31was the first time I kind of sketched
  193. 7:32something on a piece of paper very badly
  194. 7:34and I was like can we resolve this? And
  195. 7:37then it to finish it off like Dior, we
  196. 7:39put a bow on it.
  197. 7:43And that was
  198. 7:45that was about a month and a half into
  199. 7:47the job,
  200. 7:48>> right? And so that
  201. 7:49>> this was just before the summer.
  202. 7:51>> And so that shape or form
  203. 7:55>> kind of made its way into the ready to
  204. 7:57wear, the women's ready to wear, right?
  205. 7:59>> Which was like kind of midresolved. So
  206. 8:02it was quite interesting to see it like
  207. 8:04it's like cut and shortened,
  208. 8:06>> right? But the structure is not what the
  209. 8:09structure is in couture.
  210. 8:10>> Yeah. So what's the difference between
  211. 8:11the ready to version and the version?
  212. 8:13>> Inside the one in couture you have these
  213. 8:16tiny lines of tulle that are gathered
  214. 8:19which make this like kind of candy floss
  215. 8:22is what I would describe it as. And they
  216. 8:25build this very very light structure
  217. 8:26which holds the shape so that you can
  218. 8:28push it in and then it has memory.
  219. 8:32Um whereas the one that we had in the
  220. 8:34show was more done by Ben. So it's like
  221. 8:37a bit more of an industrial
  222. 8:39uh process and then it was done by
  223. 8:41machine pleading. Whereas this is hand
  224. 8:44pleading. So everything is pleated by
  225. 8:46hand onto the carcass of the shape and
  226. 8:49then stitched down to keep the the
  227. 8:52shape.
  228. 8:54>> And when I when I saw the twile of it on
  229. 8:56then I then I was like okay we have to
  230. 8:57open the the women's wear show with a a
  231. 8:59kind of shorter version of it. But I was
  232. 9:02like this is why
  233. 9:06Dior is Dior
  234. 9:07>> and this is why Dior couture
  235. 9:10>> needs to exist in a way
  236. 9:11>> needs to exist because they are
  237. 9:15practicing a skill that if we if you
  238. 9:18don't practice would disappear you know
  239. 9:20because I think what people forget in
  240. 9:22couture is that everything is done by
  241. 9:25hand.
  242. 9:25>> Yeah. So, and what has taken me a bit of
  243. 9:28time to get used to it is that by doing
  244. 9:30things by hand, things become a lot
  245. 9:31rounder, you know, like the seam is a
  246. 9:34lot rounder. It's less uh flat.
  247. 9:37Everything becomes slightly more rounded
  248. 9:40ultimately, which has taken me a bit of
  249. 9:42time to get used to. M and when you
  250. 9:45started meeting some of the people in
  251. 9:46the atelier some of them as you said
  252. 9:48who've worked with many of your
  253. 9:50predecessors
  254. 9:52what surprised you most about their
  255. 9:55skills the way they work you know their
  256. 9:58dedication to this craft I think what is
  257. 10:02interesting is it's like a kind of
  258. 10:03little mini city of people and like you
  259. 10:08have like the cheese shop and the
  260. 10:09butcher
  261. 10:11that's their little area So they stay in
  262. 10:14their own like someone who does flu only
  263. 10:15does flu. Um there is no
  264. 10:17cross-pollination. It's very like they
  265. 10:20take on a look and they look after this
  266. 10:22look through the entire process.
  267. 10:23>> So it's like super highly specialized
  268. 10:26>> like to the point where it's sort of
  269. 10:29certain things have to be given to
  270. 10:30certain people, right?
  271. 10:31>> You can't kind of go let's be crazy and
  272. 10:33move it around.
  273. 10:35So this for me was like it was quite
  274. 10:39interesting to meet all these
  275. 10:40individuals that were all had completely
  276. 10:42different personalities in very
  277. 10:45different buildings, you know. So you
  278. 10:46have like the historical
  279. 10:49which is above the store. Then you have
  280. 10:50like four other atilier that are doing
  281. 10:53like little camps of people
  282. 10:55>> and then you also have some of the like
  283. 10:57the embroidery houses and the feather
  284. 10:59houses and all. So you have all these
  285. 11:01different people that you they come in
  286. 11:03and then you're briefing on these tiny
  287. 11:06little swatches and then they become
  288. 11:09this, you know, it might be a fabric
  289. 11:10that I found and then we're trying to
  290. 11:12like can is there a mill that still even
  291. 11:15does it?
  292. 11:16>> Is that for you? I mean, you've worked
  293. 11:18with so many crafts people and makers
  294. 11:22>> and artisans over the year. Is it
  295. 11:26is it intimidating?
  296. 11:27>> Of course it was. I think I'm still
  297. 11:30intimidated until the show is done. I
  298. 11:32feel like a bit, as you said, a bit
  299. 11:34impostor. Like it's
  300. 11:37>> um I think people don't comprehend until
  301. 11:41you're there's not many houses. There's
  302. 11:44probably five or six houses in the world
  303. 11:47at this scale.
  304. 11:49>> Yeah.
  305. 11:49>> Then there's only so many houses that do
  306. 11:51couture. Yeah.
  307. 11:52>> Which is this other layer of
  308. 11:56um the world of a brand.
  309. 11:59So you it's it's um
  310. 12:03it takes time to uh in a weird way go
  311. 12:07into this ecosystem
  312. 12:10and you have to be able to perform like
  313. 12:13that which is uh very scary and quite
  314. 12:18intimidating but for me it's what I I I
  315. 12:22feel that I learned when I was at Lev is
  316. 12:24you have to start somewhere and in a
  317. 12:26weird way it's about progression. You
  318. 12:28have to learn through it and once you've
  319. 12:31if I go to work and it becomes a formula
  320. 12:34then you get bored and then you don't
  321. 12:35enjoy it. So in a weird way
  322. 12:37>> everything I do at the moment is for the
  323. 12:39first time. So it'll be the first
  324. 12:42couture. It's the first year is going to
  325. 12:44be everything first. So you're and
  326. 12:47you're meeting hundreds and hundreds and
  327. 12:49hundreds of people and they're trying to
  328. 12:52in a weird way grab a hold of this like
  329. 12:54running buffalo like I'm trying to grab
  330. 12:57on to it and stay on it. So
  331. 13:01it's it's it's for me. Yeah, it's
  332. 13:03incredibly int I think couture adds this
  333. 13:05other weird
  334. 13:07um and I would never really care but
  335. 13:09weirdly when you're inside the house I'm
  336. 13:11in Paris there is a kind of um it comes
  337. 13:15with a different thing.
  338. 13:17>> Did they ever did you ever come with an
  339. 13:18idea and they said no that's just not
  340. 13:20possible or are they're able to do
  341. 13:22anything?
  342. 13:23>> They're able to do anything. That's what
  343. 13:25there's never no there in a weird way.
  344. 13:28It was like for me it's nearly like
  345. 13:30cars. It's like here is an archetype for
  346. 13:33a brand new car and it it may never be
  347. 13:36able to go on the road but we are going
  348. 13:38to make it happen. You know I quite like
  349. 13:40the you know it's like in fabric you'll
  350. 13:43be like do you think we can reproduce
  351. 13:46this 16th century fabric? We won't be
  352. 13:49able to get it like this, but we will be
  353. 13:51able to do it like this. Or we will get
  354. 13:53a mill that can reopen looms to do it.
  355. 13:56>> That might be that must be quite
  356. 13:57refreshing. Yeah.
  357. 13:59>> As a creative person, cuz you hear no a
  358. 14:01lot normally, right? I
  359. 14:02>> And it's the one part of the business
  360. 14:03where there is no no because it's just
  361. 14:05about sheer creativity and making.
  362. 14:08>> Wow. So, it's very kind of like and we
  363. 14:10changed the the kind of um the calendar
  364. 14:14for it because I was just like I I
  365. 14:16cannot do a couture show in 30 days like
  366. 14:18it's just impossible. So, I was like
  367. 14:20let's change it into like a six month
  368. 14:22cycle. So,
  369. 14:23>> which is kind of the old way of doing
  370. 14:26things, right?
  371. 14:27>> And we just work on it like we, you
  372. 14:29know, for me it was like okay, this is
  373. 14:30we're going to do a project with
  374. 14:31Magdalene. I want it to be about form. I
  375. 14:34want to be about these three different
  376. 14:35things. Off we go. And in a weird way
  377. 14:40then you enjoy the look and through the
  378. 14:43process I'm enjoying kind of like
  379. 14:46rejecting it or embracing it or kind of
  380. 14:48do we want to add more? Do we want to
  381. 14:50take you know so it's a kind of like an
  382. 14:53experimentation for me. Is it going to
  383. 14:55be a lab?
  384. 14:56>> And and I think because of designers
  385. 14:59that have been there before like John
  386. 15:02Christian D himself,
  387. 15:04they have opened the door of this idea
  388. 15:07of like fantasy and I was thinking to
  389. 15:10myself like
  390. 15:12why why do people come to Dior for
  391. 15:14fantasy, you know, like but ultimately
  392. 15:16it was birthed out of the idea of
  393. 15:18fantasy. It comes out of a troubled
  394. 15:20period fantasy
  395. 15:22>> and
  396. 15:24and I think it's one of the DNAs of the
  397. 15:27brand. I think people go to it because
  398. 15:28they want something,
  399. 15:31you know, a bit romantic. They want it
  400. 15:33to be a bit over the top. They want it
  401. 15:36to be about fashion. So,
  402. 15:38>> so for me it's sort of like a it's quite
  403. 15:40petrifying because you're kind of trying
  404. 15:41to you've got this like back catalog
  405. 15:45that is like genius and then you're
  406. 15:47trying to
  407. 15:49a respect the codes of the house and
  408. 15:51then slowly bring codes to me because I
  409. 15:55think that's been the biggest challenge
  410. 15:57I think over the last year is dealing
  411. 15:59with like audience and a business and
  412. 16:02trying to be like I'm in a bubble but
  413. 16:05then at the same time I'm trying to
  414. 16:06listen to outside the bubble where
  415. 16:09you're kind of going the brand needs
  416. 16:11this in the moment. I think it's I think
  417. 16:13this is where couture has been kind of a
  418. 16:16bit like um
  419. 16:18uh an escape because it's sort of a bit
  420. 16:22more kind of where I can kind of sit and
  421. 16:25spend time in the evening going through
  422. 16:27the archive going through how do we
  423. 16:29develop every single fabric from
  424. 16:31scratch? How do we develop every shoe
  425. 16:34last from scratch? So
  426. 16:36that you cannot do in a month that takes
  427. 16:396 months.
  428. 16:40>> Right. You said just now a lab. Tell me
  429. 16:44more about that. How is it a lab for you
  430. 16:46as you think about this lab in the in
  431. 16:50the kind of wider Dior universe? Yeah,
  432. 16:53because I think we can run it over 6
  433. 16:54months and then what while we're kind of
  434. 16:56testing like weird and wonderful things
  435. 16:58like it can be in bags, it can be in
  436. 17:00shoes, it could be in a last, it could
  437. 17:02be bonding techniques, it could be
  438. 17:04hands, it can be so many aspects, but
  439. 17:07you might learn something through that
  440. 17:09and then you go actually we've we've
  441. 17:12opened all these looms now. we might as
  442. 17:15well use that into men's or and get like
  443. 17:20like utilize it because now that we have
  444. 17:23it, we can then we know that we can do
  445. 17:25that fabric. So, okay, we'll put that
  446. 17:27in. Let's experiment with bags that make
  447. 17:30are gestural bags that make no sense in
  448. 17:32the everyday world, but they're kind of
  449. 17:33an interesting object, but there might
  450. 17:35be something in hardware or
  451. 17:37construction. Okay, let's maybe try that
  452. 17:39into it. So for me it's more kind of
  453. 17:43uh a thought process that I think can be
  454. 17:46interesting.
  455. 17:47>> It feels to me like you've always kind
  456. 17:49of worked that way. Never with these
  457. 17:51kind of resources like you've always had
  458. 17:53this approach of like doing something
  459. 17:56quite experimental and then somehow
  460. 17:59maybe it turns into something that
  461. 18:00>> something that sells.
  462. 18:02>> Yeah. Um, but I think what is because
  463. 18:06you're in a weird way you're kind of
  464. 18:07like this allows in a weird way two
  465. 18:09blocks of continuity throughout the
  466. 18:12year,
  467. 18:12>> those two six month blocks
  468. 18:14>> where inside of that you have like two
  469. 18:16men's, you got two pre-colctions, you
  470. 18:18got two ready toear collections and then
  471. 18:20you have prefalls and capsules. So in a
  472. 18:24weird way it kind of for me this becomes
  473. 18:27the backbone of the brand.
  474. 18:29>> Yeah. And then it then breaks up the
  475. 18:32creative cycle. So, and that's why I
  476. 18:35think for me it's sort of going into
  477. 18:38next year, it's it when this comes out
  478. 18:41will be next year, but
  479. 18:42>> happy new year.
  480. 18:43>> Happy new year. Um, it's sort of it for
  481. 18:46me it's sort of nice to kind of start
  482. 18:49the I like to start a year as a year
  483. 18:52because in a weird way I came in midway
  484. 18:54in the year and it's really nice to go
  485. 18:56this is going to be like men's then
  486. 18:59couture then the women's then it'll be
  487. 19:02um the resort then it will be the
  488. 19:05woman's it means I can go through the
  489. 19:07cycle again.
  490. 19:08>> Yeah. But with um
  491. 19:13fabrics are mine or shoas are m you know
  492. 19:16like you're trying to
  493. 19:19um build your own library
  494. 19:22>> but what you realize when you're in a
  495. 19:24house like Dior
  496. 19:26you want to get them so that they're
  497. 19:28long-term things I want them you know I
  498. 19:30think
  499. 19:31>> in the way I had it start from nothing.
  500. 19:33>> Yeah. here. I'm coming in on like
  501. 19:36everyone has like a vision of Dior. Do
  502. 19:41you know what I mean?
  503. 19:42>> And that's this whole thing about like
  504. 19:43how much do you think about what people
  505. 19:47outside this bubble want and how much
  506. 19:49how much do you feel like
  507. 19:53kind of confined by the archive, right?
  508. 19:56And how much do you lean into your own
  509. 19:58creative instincts? I think for me,
  510. 20:03I think I had two months of this year
  511. 20:05where I was just like it was like kind
  512. 20:07of um being in a kind of sound cooker of
  513. 20:12information. You have like you're a
  514. 20:14looking at the business, you're b
  515. 20:16looking at like what you want to bring
  516. 20:18to it. You're kind of closing off a
  517. 20:19chapter in um in a brand that you're 11
  518. 20:22years. You're trying to uh I had
  519. 20:25rebranded and rechanged JW to be honest.
  520. 20:29We were trying to like put all these
  521. 20:32kind of components together and at the
  522. 20:34same time I was trying to think what do
  523. 20:36I do in Dior that ultimately creates a
  524. 20:40blank space
  525. 20:43and that's what the shows were about. It
  526. 20:45was it was to try to kind of propose a
  527. 20:48question to myself and pose a question
  528. 20:49to the audience which is like well what
  529. 20:51do we see Dior as
  530. 20:54>> you know um because I think as a
  531. 20:57designer I I don't I don't work in um
  532. 21:02for me it's not I will build a vibe or a
  533. 21:05a kind of culture around a brand but
  534. 21:08then
  535. 21:09everything will be different you know
  536. 21:12you will have bags and you will have
  537. 21:13core product that
  538. 21:16But the energy of a different
  539. 21:23>> how do you get the system to work around
  540. 21:25that when it was doing more of a um uh a
  541. 21:31singular kind of look. So you're trying
  542. 21:33to go okay well I want couture to go
  543. 21:34this way and I want men's to go that way
  544. 21:35and I want so that
  545. 21:37>> but they all also have to be
  546. 21:38>> they have to be linked. Yeah.
  547. 21:40>> So you're trying to work out how do you
  548. 21:43cross-pollinate all this so that there
  549. 21:44is a language that is built.
  550. 21:46>> So
  551. 21:48>> and I think it takes time. I think that
  552. 21:50I think that's what I realized with
  553. 21:51noise today is that um
  554. 21:58I know what is right because that's why
  555. 22:00I'm here to do the job. And you have to
  556. 22:02kind of in the morning remind yourself
  557. 22:04that
  558. 22:06you have to take the journey that is
  559. 22:09right for the brand that you're in, not
  560. 22:11for what is needed.
  561. 22:14>> It's very easy to hype something. But I
  562. 22:16think when you're dealing with structure
  563. 22:18and you're dealing with collection
  564. 22:20planning and you have to deal with that.
  565. 22:23>> Yeah.
  566. 22:23>> Because that is the real part. That's
  567. 22:25the realism. That's the stuff that no
  568. 22:26one wants to know about. But ultimately
  569. 22:28if you don't then you will have that
  570. 22:30bite you on the other side if you don't.
  571. 22:32So I'm trying to kind of
  572. 22:34>> with Deline work like put down like
  573. 22:38concrete blocks, you know, some will end
  574. 22:40up being sand and then you'll have to
  575. 22:42rebuild it. But you're trying to build
  576. 22:44solid platforms like industrialization,
  577. 22:48you know, different manufacturing back,
  578. 22:50you know, Delphine myself, we can bring
  579. 22:52a lot more knowledge on bags. Um whereas
  580. 22:56a ready toear house, not a bag brand,
  581. 22:57you know, so it's sort of I'm doing the
  582. 22:59reverse of what LE was. Whether it was a
  583. 23:01bag bag or putting fashion culture in
  584. 23:04this is me putting bags into something
  585. 23:05which has a huge fashion culture. So
  586. 23:08it's
  587. 23:09>> um and it's a learning experience. I
  588. 23:12mean
  589. 23:14>> so when we were looking just now I was I
  590. 23:16mean and maybe you can you just kind of
  591. 23:19walk us through the different elements
  592. 23:21because there were
  593. 23:22>> as I expected a whole bunch of you know
  594. 23:27uh looks.
  595. 23:28>> Yeah. But alongside all of those looks
  596. 23:30and some of the processes that you you
  597. 23:32walked me through, there were also
  598. 23:34one-of-a-kind pieces. There were bags.
  599. 23:36There was jewelry. Like the universe of
  600. 23:38couture, you've expanded it for what at
  601. 23:41Dior in a way. No,
  602. 23:43>> I was trying to think of like
  603. 23:46like when when I was younger, I was
  604. 23:49always there was these like books which
  605. 23:50were on designers, little small books
  606. 23:52you get in libraries and I was always
  607. 23:53obsessed by like Jean Paul Goier when he
  608. 23:56would do like a couture show. It would
  609. 23:57be like
  610. 23:59it was like an entire theme and it was
  611. 24:01like you nearly had to buy the entire
  612. 24:03look to get the vibe. It was like
  613. 24:05bracelets and shoes and bags and hats
  614. 24:08and mittens and and and I was thinking
  615. 24:11like in a weird way you're kind of set
  616. 24:14you know in couture today there is only
  617. 24:16so many people in the world can buy
  618. 24:17couture and this is not uh this is not a
  619. 24:21secret you know I mean there's a sort of
  620. 24:23there's always a pinnacle there's always
  621. 24:24a pinnacle in life so
  622. 24:27for me it was like well how do I get the
  623. 24:29same excitement of myself looking at
  624. 24:31couture of I say something like goier
  625. 24:33where it's like it's everything you
  626. 24:36believe in the editorial character you
  627. 24:39know it's sort of like it's got
  628. 24:42it's multiple components or it's just a
  629. 24:45dress you know it and so that's why I
  630. 24:48was like how do we get bag how do we do
  631. 24:50bags of couture how do we do jewelry and
  632. 24:53couture so like in like for example in
  633. 24:55jewelry I wanted to look at this idea of
  634. 24:57like using technology and looking at
  635. 25:00powder coating onto enamel onto onto to
  636. 25:04aluminum and then using found objects or
  637. 25:08precious things like we have meteorites
  638. 25:12that were found in Argentina and then
  639. 25:14those are going to be mounted onto like
  640. 25:17carbonized silver. So it's like looking
  641. 25:20at technology and then something in the
  642. 25:23outer world that we have no idea what's
  643. 25:25happening but then you have like cam
  644. 25:27like Roman cameos that are then mounted
  645. 25:30on to thing or you have portrait
  646. 25:32miniatures you know that are then re
  647. 25:36combined. So that was like something
  648. 25:37where I thought okay well if you're
  649. 25:39going to buy a piece of couture jewelry
  650. 25:41it should have some sort of like story
  651. 25:44behind it. Jine, that's sort of like I'd
  652. 25:47never touched a meteorite. Here was
  653. 25:48meteorites. We're going to use it. You
  654. 25:50know, it's sort of like
  655. 25:52>> it sort of it has like a kind of a
  656. 25:54talking point or like something you kind
  657. 25:56of like curiosity
  658. 25:57>> and it's still precious because I don't
  659. 25:59know about the availability of
  660. 26:01meteorites, but like feels like very
  661. 26:03very rare.
  662. 26:05>> They're rare, but they're not as they're
  663. 26:07not as crazy. Um like some of them can
  664. 26:09be. they're like this big, but when
  665. 26:11they're this small, it's, you know, it's
  666. 26:13not so bad. And I quite like that. It's
  667. 26:16sort of like
  668. 26:17>> there is a childlike curiosity in the
  669. 26:19idea. It's like I remember as a kid, you
  670. 26:21used to get these magazines where you
  671. 26:22get like stones in them each month and
  672. 26:24you would like you buy the magazine,
  673. 26:26they come with like a stone in it and
  674. 26:27then you would like collect all the
  675. 26:28stones. Mhm.
  676. 26:29>> So it was like for me it was like that
  677. 26:31was what jewelry was going to be about
  678. 26:32like you know like all these kind of
  679. 26:35like
  680. 26:37antiquities reformed into something and
  681. 26:40then bags became split into two parts.
  682. 26:42One was going to is to do with like what
  683. 26:45is upycling in a couture way do you mean
  684. 26:48like what what is that today?
  685. 26:50>> So it's like the reusing of raw material
  686. 26:53is one. Then there's like looking at
  687. 26:5618th century or 16th century French
  688. 26:58fabrics found where every single piece
  689. 27:02we have like when you buy the bag you
  690. 27:04get the history of that piece of fabric
  691. 27:06what mill it was made in if it was made
  692. 27:08in Leo if it was made in like a certain
  693. 27:11type of loom. So each bag comes with a
  694. 27:14kind of like a list of components of
  695. 27:16like the history of that textile how
  696. 27:18weird
  697. 27:19>> it's the provenence basically. Yeah. And
  698. 27:21I think in a weird way
  699. 27:24that's what I want to bring to it. It's
  700. 27:26like that's what I when I buy a piece of
  701. 27:29art or I buy a ceramic
  702. 27:31you're trying to find newness in
  703. 27:33something that is old or you're
  704. 27:35collecting something in period. So it
  705. 27:37was how do you merge that? So it's sort
  706. 27:39of like and we might learn something
  707. 27:42through industrialization and handmake
  708. 27:46of say the Lydior where we're kind of
  709. 27:48like we're going to take this textile
  710. 27:49and we're going to recondition it. what
  711. 27:52can that be in the bigger ecosystem of
  712. 27:54the brand start small and work out
  713. 27:56bigger you know
  714. 27:58>> um so that was a kind of like take on
  715. 28:00accessories and then you know shoes for
  716. 28:02me I wanted complete new last from
  717. 28:04scratch
  718. 28:05>> like where it was like we're going to
  719. 28:06like meticulously spend 6 months until
  720. 28:09we get
  721. 28:10>> that incredible curved heel that we saw.
  722. 28:12Yeah.
  723. 28:12>> And it was like for me Dior like you
  724. 28:15have Vivier who does these amazing shoes
  725. 28:19and I've always been obsessy. He always
  726. 28:20has he had this leaned um angled shoe
  727. 28:23and I was like, well, what happens if it
  728. 28:25was more modular? If it was like the
  729. 28:27entire back of a shoe is a heel.
  730. 28:30>> So theoretically,
  731. 28:32>> you know, someone could buy just a
  732. 28:34couture shoe or just a piece of jewelry
  733. 28:36or just one of those upcycled
  734. 28:39>> Yeah.
  735. 28:39>> bags.
  736. 28:40>> And I think there's a way then that you
  737. 28:42can enter couture on different
  738. 28:47levels. Do you mean some people don't
  739. 28:48want an entire dress? You know, some
  740. 28:50people want to have like an object that
  741. 28:53mean, you know, I was trying to work out
  742. 28:56how I would buy into it. I was thinking
  743. 28:57I would want like a really nice bracelet
  744. 29:00or I would want,
  745. 29:01>> you know, what would I as a guy want
  746. 29:03from it.
  747. 29:04>> Um, and I think this was the kind of
  748. 29:07thinking which was more about this like
  749. 29:09kind of
  750. 29:10>> eccentricities within couture and this
  751. 29:13idea of the nuance of it.
  752. 29:15>> Yeah.
  753. 29:17So another big change that you're making
  754. 29:20is with
  755. 29:22the interaction with clients and beyond.
  756. 29:26>> Yeah.
  757. 29:27>> Um how much did you think about the
  758. 29:29couture
  759. 29:31client as you did this? Like did you
  760. 29:34meet anybody?
  761. 29:35>> I went and met some of the bigger the
  762. 29:38biggest clients I have and I just got
  763. 29:40back from China and I met some more
  764. 29:42there. I met someone in America and I
  765. 29:44have been kind of like working out who
  766. 29:46else do I want to attract to the brand
  767. 29:48as well and it was just interesting to
  768. 29:50kind of think of different like it was a
  769. 29:53different mindset than I was like you
  770. 29:55know it was really interesting to speak
  771. 29:56to
  772. 29:57>> how was it different
  773. 29:58>> because they wanted it's either they
  774. 30:01wanted it for occasion
  775. 30:03>> a specific occasion yeah
  776. 30:05>> and they're thinking in advance like oh
  777. 30:07well I'm going to this thing and I think
  778. 30:09this would be or you've got people who
  779. 30:12actually just collect clothing,
  780. 30:15who are fascinated in the history of
  781. 30:17fashion and just collect clothing.
  782. 30:19And then there's newer people who have
  783. 30:22just
  784. 30:23started to un like it's like being part
  785. 30:27of a world like they they go in to do a
  786. 30:30fitting and they meet the Itilier. It's
  787. 30:32like a it's a whole kind of process. And
  788. 30:34the interesting thing on the first week
  789. 30:36of working here, I was when I went to
  790. 30:39the itilier, I was like
  791. 30:42they were remaking dresses like from
  792. 30:44like 57 or like the first Dior show or
  793. 30:49and I was like are they must be for the
  794. 30:51museum. No, no. What the amazing thing
  795. 30:53that Dior does, we will remake those
  796. 30:55dresses for clients. You can order a
  797. 30:58dress from a show
  798. 31:01could be 20 years ago, 30 years ago
  799. 31:03>> and we will make it for you still to
  800. 31:05this day.
  801. 31:06>> Wow.
  802. 31:06>> Which I and and at the same time we will
  803. 31:09repair
  804. 31:10those. So it's
  805. 31:12>> so is that a bit liberating in a way
  806. 31:14because if someone wants that archival
  807. 31:17thing that you don't have to recreate
  808. 31:18that
  809. 31:19>> you don't have to recreate it and at the
  810. 31:20same time it does give you a bit of a
  811. 31:22reality check. turned me that that that
  812. 31:25these things do stand the test of time.
  813. 31:27Yeah. You know,
  814. 31:29>> and then the way you're going to
  815. 31:30interact with clients and engage clients
  816. 31:33like this is more than just
  817. 31:35>> a couture show happening at the muse
  818. 31:37deod. It's a
  819. 31:39>> walk us through the whole thing.
  820. 31:41>> For me, the the show is the the
  821. 31:43silhouette, the idea, the fallacy, the
  822. 31:45dream. like here is it in a you know
  823. 31:4915minute ban
  824. 31:51which is for a reduced audience because
  825. 31:53of capacity and ultimately it's a
  826. 31:55fashion show. After that we then go to
  827. 31:58the straight after the show I go to the
  828. 32:00villa and I will set it up into cabinets
  829. 32:04and you will be able to see every the
  830. 32:07client will be able to see every single
  831. 32:08component and it will be laid out in the
  832. 32:10villa Dior.
  833. 32:11>> What is the villa Dior? Tell like
  834. 32:12explain. It's a space that they have for
  835. 32:14VIC clients and it's a a place where you
  836. 32:16can kind of you can kind of go there and
  837. 32:18get made you can get anything made and
  838. 32:21>> Okay. So, this is a permanent space.
  839. 32:24>> And what we've done is we have redone it
  840. 32:26more like a home setting and it's going
  841. 32:29to be but then it has like you'll have
  842. 32:31all the jewelry and cases. It will be
  843. 32:32more laid out like a kind of exhibition.
  844. 32:34>> So, this is like the Reesei in a way but
  845. 32:37a much more elevated one. M so it'll be
  846. 32:40every single detail or you know we will
  847. 32:43we will introduce the clients over like
  848. 32:45two hours where we can introduce each
  849. 32:47product tell them things about they can
  850. 32:48meet the people of the team so they can
  851. 32:51meet like Alberto or Yua or like all the
  852. 32:54guys and will you be there
  853. 32:55>> and I will be there and then we will
  854. 32:57kind of do the old school kind of like
  855. 32:59this is what
  856. 33:01>> this is what this is about and this is
  857. 33:02why it is what it is. Um we do that and
  858. 33:07then it will be x amount of days of
  859. 33:09selling and then in that period so we
  860. 33:13will have uh 11 looks will be then in
  861. 33:16the show venue. So that will happen for
  862. 33:18clients. So you have the the show, then
  863. 33:20we have the clients, and then we have
  864. 33:22the final part, which is the part that
  865. 33:24I'm most excited about. Um, and this the
  866. 33:27part that is new for Dior, is that the
  867. 33:30show venue will then turn into at the
  868. 33:32Rodan, the the show space will stay um
  869. 33:36up and it will then be turned into an
  870. 33:38exhibition which will be on Magdalina
  871. 33:40Dondu, uh, Christian Dior himself and
  872. 33:44the new um, couture collection. So that
  873. 33:48we will then do with school groups, we
  874. 33:50will do with art students, we will do
  875. 33:52with general public. Anyone can go, it
  876. 33:54will be free. And the idea,
  877. 33:55>> why would you sign up online or
  878. 33:57something?
  879. 33:57>> And you just go and see it.
  880. 33:59>> Why Why did Why did you want to add this
  881. 34:02third component? And why is it the thing
  882. 34:04you're most excited about?
  883. 34:05>> Because I think I was trying to kind of
  884. 34:07think about what I felt about couture
  885. 34:09before I got to Dior, which was like
  886. 34:11why? Um,
  887. 34:14and I was thinking that if you saw a
  888. 34:16dress that is
  889. 34:19taken more than 4,000 hours that one
  890. 34:22person has meticulously put together,
  891. 34:24you a photograph is never going to tell
  892. 34:26you that, you know, you have to kind of
  893. 34:28see it. And then I wanted to show my
  894. 34:30influence. I wanted to show that
  895. 34:32Magdalene is a huge inspiration for this
  896. 34:35show. you will be able to see what we're
  897. 34:37doing with her in terms of bags and in
  898. 34:39terms of other things that we will put
  899. 34:41on show and then showing
  900. 34:45from each time we will show from the
  901. 34:47archive different things. So this one
  902. 34:48will focus on Christian Dior. So it will
  903. 34:51have all the forms. It will be Magdalene
  904. 34:53and Christian Dior in conversation. Wow.
  905. 34:56>> And what I end up doing is kind of like
  906. 34:59a catalyst of that.
  907. 35:01>> So that then you'll see the sketches of
  908. 35:02Magdalene, you will see the sketches of
  909. 35:04Dior, you will see the sketches of mine
  910. 35:06and all mixed together. And then from
  911. 35:08that, so this is just as important to me
  912. 35:10as the fashion show because I think it's
  913. 35:12where
  914. 35:14there's only so much you can see online.
  915. 35:17And I think in a weird way, I'm kind of
  916. 35:19inviting
  917. 35:21people who want to go and see it to see
  918. 35:24something physical because it may change
  919. 35:27your mind, you know, it might change
  920. 35:29your opinion of it, you know, because I
  921. 35:31think it's sort of
  922. 35:33I think the great thing about Dior is
  923. 35:35Dior does a great exhibition.
  924. 35:38When I think of great exhibitions in
  925. 35:39fashion, Dior is very good at an
  926. 35:41exhibition. So why not exhibit something
  927. 35:44current as opposed to waiting till like
  928. 35:47what for a retrospective or something?
  929. 35:49So you
  930. 35:49>> because I think it's sort of like this
  931. 35:51is what clients are seeing and this is
  932. 35:52what you're seeing in real time. go and
  933. 35:54see it because now because I think
  934. 35:58>> you know it's like the opening dress
  935. 35:59that we were looking at where you have
  936. 36:01like
  937. 36:02>> layers it looks so simple
  938. 36:05>> as a structure but when you realize that
  939. 36:09underneath is going is like
  940. 36:12hundreds [snorts] of lines of tool that
  941. 36:14are all stitched together and then
  942. 36:15engineered in this way you will see that
  943. 36:18in the flesh more than you will see in a
  944. 36:21flat image on the catwalk the catbook of
  945. 36:24The catwalk can be a bit of a trick and
  946. 36:26I I I know because as a designer I have
  947. 36:28had to use that trick. You can use the
  948. 36:30set as a trick. You can use casting as a
  949. 36:33trick.
  950. 36:34>> You can hide many things. You can sell
  951. 36:36people a kind of flashoint
  952. 36:39>> but the clothing is not right. No matter
  953. 36:42what you put around it, it will no
  954. 36:45matter how much it
  955. 36:47in the moment. We're so used to fashion
  956. 36:50right now as we do shows, consume it,
  957. 36:53and that's it.
  958. 36:56>> And some people only consume that flat
  959. 36:58image
  960. 36:58>> and that's it.
  961. 36:59>> Yeah.
  962. 36:59>> And it's kind of weirdly I was talking
  963. 37:01about it with someone a couple of weeks
  964. 37:03ago in in real in depth [laughter]
  965. 37:06over a bottle of wine. Um, which is why
  966. 37:10I started in fashion. What what I loved
  967. 37:13about fashion when I was doing windows
  968. 37:15at Prada was that you would watch a
  969. 37:18Prada show and then we would have to
  970. 37:21work with like the team to come up with
  971. 37:23windows and then you'd have to then
  972. 37:26foresight the windows coming and in the
  973. 37:28beginning you would look at the show and
  974. 37:29you'd be like this is what is that like
  975. 37:31what is that and then like you would be
  976. 37:34selling the current collection they were
  977. 37:35trying to sell the current collection
  978. 37:36then you would be like slowly the new
  979. 37:38collection was about to come in six
  980. 37:39months and then you would be like
  981. 37:42Oh,
  982. 37:44I want that now.
  983. 37:46>> I think what has happened now is we we
  984. 37:48have we have kind of got into this weird
  985. 37:51habit where
  986. 37:53>> we do shows and everything for impact
  987. 37:56and bam to kind of win
  988. 38:00people's talking ultimately or like we
  989. 38:03like we hate we like we hate
  990. 38:05>> but we don't digest anymore. So we just
  991. 38:07like we kind of it's like near like
  992. 38:10that. You put it in your mouth and you
  993. 38:11spit it out.
  994. 38:12>> Yeah. It's like perfume. It's like, you
  995. 38:13know, like when the at the end like in
  996. 38:15the he gets eaten by everyone.
  997. 38:17[laughter]
  998. 38:18>> And but what I love about fashion for me
  999. 38:22was it's about the future. You you
  1000. 38:24create something, people take time, they
  1001. 38:28distill it, it goes in store, and then
  1002. 38:30you discover it again. So for me this is
  1003. 38:32a kind of a test weirdly to kind of see
  1004. 38:36does it help part of like local or
  1005. 38:39community ultimate to look at it in a
  1006. 38:41different in real time.
  1007. 38:43>> Yeah.
  1008. 38:43>> To maybe go actually it was actually
  1009. 38:45different but not everyone goes to the
  1010. 38:46showroom.
  1011. 38:47>> Yeah.
  1012. 38:48>> You know what I mean?
  1013. 38:49>> Well this helps people I guess they get
  1014. 38:51that chance to digest it. It also makes
  1015. 38:53me think of you know following your
  1016. 38:56ready toear show there was that watch
  1017. 38:58party.
  1018. 38:59>> Yeah. And I feel like there's this thing
  1019. 39:01hap I mean I know Italian Vogue is doing
  1020. 39:03more of this in Milan as well where
  1021. 39:04they're like
  1022. 39:05>> this idea of fashion week just being for
  1023. 39:09insiders and the kind of outsiders get
  1024. 39:11to look at it on social media. There's
  1025. 39:13this movement of like bringing more
  1026. 39:15people in to see it the real bits of it
  1027. 39:18because so much of it then just is
  1028. 39:20consumed on the surface or understood at
  1029. 39:23the surface
  1030. 39:24>> but we don't go deeper. Yeah. And I
  1031. 39:26think I think this is what um I think
  1032. 39:30the learning lesson for me in the
  1033. 39:32process of like
  1034. 39:35and I'm at fault too because I kind of I
  1035. 39:38kind of go oh well Louis was like this
  1036. 39:41it was just was it was but then you
  1037. 39:42realize you were there for 11 years I
  1038. 39:45mean
  1039. 39:45>> so in a weird way I'm expecting 11 years
  1040. 39:47in one year but at the same time the
  1041. 39:50audience is expecting of it like
  1042. 39:53tomorrow.
  1043. 39:54>> Yeah. and you're kind of like you're
  1044. 39:57trying to grapple with where you want to
  1045. 40:00go, what is needed for the business,
  1046. 40:03where the audience is seeing it. And
  1047. 40:04then there comes a moment where you have
  1048. 40:06to just go into the kind of zen-like
  1049. 40:09experience, which is what I'd said
  1050. 40:11earlier, which is like I get up in the
  1051. 40:13morning, I know what I'm doing, and it
  1052. 40:16will be there will be good days and bad
  1053. 40:17days. And I think that's what you start
  1054. 40:19to you start to get a thicker and
  1055. 40:22thicker and thicker skin through the
  1056. 40:23process because you have to because
  1057. 40:26>> you have to always be thinking what is
  1058. 40:29relevant in 6 months.
  1059. 40:30>> Yeah.
  1060. 40:31>> Not right now. You know, it's sort of I
  1061. 40:33think this is the trick. Um
  1062. 40:35>> it it's also like a really challenging
  1063. 40:37time
  1064. 40:38>> for the fashion industry. So I think
  1065. 40:41offering some more texture and more
  1066. 40:43depth helps people to understand
  1067. 40:46>> or being real about it. You know, I feel
  1068. 40:49like a fashion has this thing where I
  1069. 40:51think the audience see um
  1070. 40:55me as a designer and you live this like,
  1071. 40:59you know, you're a designer, so you turn
  1072. 41:00up and it's like I don't know what I
  1073. 41:02don't know what they think sometimes.
  1074. 41:04But the reality of fashion today in the
  1075. 41:08scale of fashion, the media pressure of
  1076. 41:11fashion,
  1077. 41:13um the the um the size of it, it's not
  1078. 41:1810 years ago.
  1079. 41:19>> No,
  1080. 41:20>> fashion has grown like crazy. maybe too
  1081. 41:23much
  1082. 41:24>> and maybe and maybe there might be a
  1083. 41:27kind of um reccaliberization
  1084. 41:30but at the same time the audience is
  1085. 41:33nearly kind of like our approach to
  1086. 41:36Hollywood we don't care we just want the
  1087. 41:37end product
  1088. 41:38>> but at the same time I think we have to
  1089. 41:40kind of um be more uh
  1090. 41:46rational I think in a we have to kind of
  1091. 41:48in a weird way as a system of designers
  1092. 41:50and of brands as much as there is
  1093. 41:52competition and there's like there will
  1094. 41:55always be a sliding scale of things. It
  1095. 41:57will but at the same time if we don't
  1096. 41:59somehow
  1097. 42:01unite behind it change is inevitable and
  1098. 42:05it in I think we think change is just a
  1099. 42:07new thing change has happened in fashion
  1100. 42:09in big cycles like this before the
  1101. 42:12difference we have now is the media
  1102. 42:15exposure on it is ginormous.
  1103. 42:17>> Yeah.
  1104. 42:18>> It is part of the popular conversation.
  1105. 42:20>> Yeah. So, but we forget that because we
  1106. 42:23that's the whole point of fashion is to
  1107. 42:25forget and keep going. Do you know what
  1108. 42:26I mean?
  1109. 42:27>> So, I think it's sort of I think
  1110. 42:29sometimes I I I feel for so many
  1111. 42:32designers because I I know what it's
  1112. 42:34like to go through it. And I do
  1113. 42:36sometimes go
  1114. 42:38there is moments where you go,
  1115. 42:41>> we literally saw you do take that deep
  1116. 42:43exhale on video backstage because it's
  1117. 42:45just so much. Right. Because I think I
  1118. 42:48think for all designers in that season
  1119. 42:51I have never it was nearly like
  1120. 42:55it was the most bizarre moment of my
  1121. 42:57life because it was like the the
  1122. 43:00anticipation of something that you're
  1123. 43:03only starting on a journey of the
  1124. 43:06audience is only just about going for it
  1125. 43:08and you're try and the pressure on it
  1126. 43:11was
  1127. 43:12>> it was that that kind of like release.
  1128. 43:15>> Yeah. Because in the end, as much as I
  1129. 43:17have to be like
  1130. 43:20the designer, the like drive drive you
  1131. 43:23in the end, there is a moment where when
  1132. 43:26you are finished, it is that kind of
  1133. 43:27like nearly handling an exam. You're
  1134. 43:29like,
  1135. 43:31>> well, you're a human, right? And I think
  1136. 43:33I think in the online discourse around
  1137. 43:36fashion and fashion designers and the
  1138. 43:37fact that it's become part of popular
  1139. 43:39culture, part of what's lost is the fact
  1140. 43:42that all of these things that people are
  1141. 43:45saying, all of all of these people
  1142. 43:47>> Yeah.
  1143. 43:47>> humans on like they're humans.
  1144. 43:49>> Yeah.
  1145. 43:50>> And it it's sometimes I know the
  1146. 43:52pressure can be
  1147. 43:53>> but it's kind but I live off pressure.
  1148. 43:56This was a very different type of
  1149. 43:58pressure. And the good thing is it is
  1150. 44:00the it's quite good because it's like
  1151. 44:02behind you. It's like a kind of like
  1152. 44:04it's like okay we just started so we can
  1153. 44:06move on from like
  1154. 44:07>> you know control will be that still
  1155. 44:09thing of the first of it and it will be
  1156. 44:11a
  1157. 44:12>> Yeah.
  1158. 44:13>> But at the same time it it means I can
  1159. 44:15just get on with the job you know
  1160. 44:17because in a weird way it takes time for
  1161. 44:20people to get used to things.
  1162. 44:21>> Yeah. Do you mean like the I think when
  1163. 44:23you look at you know so I remember when
  1164. 44:26I did my first show at the movie people
  1165. 44:28were so not sure about it. I definitely
  1166. 44:30was not sure. I remember but like that
  1167. 44:34took time
  1168. 44:35>> and it took time and you know because
  1169. 44:37that was a business that needed
  1170. 44:38completely restructuring and I think
  1171. 44:41people there is the bigger the brand
  1172. 44:45you realize it is not just a designer
  1173. 44:48there is so many components there's the
  1174. 44:50people do the windows there's a CEO
  1175. 44:52there's the finance person there's a
  1176. 44:54there's a merchant like there's I think
  1177. 44:57you know I was looking at this thing
  1178. 44:58where it's like you know um uh one
  1179. 45:02granny which I think is really good
  1180. 45:03because they're kind of like they're
  1181. 45:04celebrating the people create that's
  1182. 45:06Olia's thing she does they're
  1183. 45:08recognizing all the talent
  1184. 45:09>> all the talent
  1185. 45:10>> but at the same time I was thinking to
  1186. 45:12myself like
  1187. 45:14>> the other people that are part of that
  1188. 45:16is like the people do the window and the
  1189. 45:17people do the merchandising and so
  1190. 45:19they're number crunching it may not be
  1191. 45:20creative but they work in a creative
  1192. 45:22business they have to try to work out
  1193. 45:25>> how to make a designer's dream come true
  1194. 45:29>> and it's sort of like that's where I I
  1195. 45:31think we
  1196. 45:33if we to pull the veil down, you have to
  1197. 45:36do it in all categories because
  1198. 45:38>> a fashion show is not just me. I am just
  1199. 45:42the conductor. I have said this
  1200. 45:44throughout my entire career and the
  1201. 45:46every single person can have their own
  1202. 45:48transparency on it, but you have to do
  1203. 45:50that equally across the board.
  1204. 45:51>> It's that proverbial it takes a village,
  1205. 45:53right? It takes it takes a lot of
  1206. 45:55people. The other thing I just wanted to
  1207. 45:57touch on really quickly is what's really
  1208. 45:59interesting is for the first time the
  1209. 46:01Dior men's show
  1210. 46:03>> and the Dior couture show are going to
  1211. 46:05happen in the same space.
  1212. 46:06>> Yeah.
  1213. 46:07>> And that was that was that out of like
  1214. 46:09pragmatism that you did that is it like
  1215. 46:12you know are we trying to be more budget
  1216. 46:15conscious or
  1217. 46:16>> I don't think it was it was it wasn't to
  1218. 46:18do about budget. It was more to do about
  1219. 46:20like why
  1220. 46:23why in one week should we make
  1221. 46:272,000 chairs?
  1222. 46:29>> Yeah.
  1223. 46:29>> Why don't we just make
  1224. 46:31>> a thousand chairs and use them both in
  1225. 46:33two different contexts?
  1226. 46:34>> Yeah.
  1227. 46:34>> I think it was just trying to work out
  1228. 46:36ways to focus
  1229. 46:39utilize building a tent that the
  1230. 46:41manpower that goes into it in a weird
  1231. 46:43way like a theater.
  1232. 46:44>> Yeah. You do act one, act two,
  1233. 46:47>> and then act three because there's
  1234. 46:48exhibition. Yeah.
  1235. 46:49>> So you take it down and it kind of
  1236. 46:51unfolds. I think it's, you know, I think
  1237. 46:55it's very important that we, as we are
  1238. 46:57all dealing with in every single
  1239. 46:59company, no matter if it's fashion or
  1240. 47:01not, the environmental part of it, you
  1241. 47:04know, we have, you know, most shows that
  1242. 47:06we do, depending on where they are, all
  1243. 47:08that gets reused into the windows. And
  1244. 47:10you know the the the ceiling for couture
  1245. 47:12will then go to Venice for fine jewelry.
  1246. 47:15>> So a lot of it's going to get reused.
  1247. 47:17>> Yeah. Because the amount of work that
  1248. 47:20goes into it like
  1249. 47:21>> to make a chrome chair it takes 6 months
  1250. 47:25to get it done you know like it's like a
  1251. 47:27piece of furniture like it's sort of
  1252. 47:29like you know like with the men the
  1253. 47:30chairs that we're using in this are the
  1254. 47:33chairs that we've been using for the
  1255. 47:34last two shows. They've just been now
  1256. 47:36chroned.
  1257. 47:37>> Okay. So that already I've been able to
  1258. 47:39get I will get four shows out of one
  1259. 47:42chair
  1260. 47:42>> right
  1261. 47:43>> whereas in the past it would have been
  1262. 47:45>> it would have been like bye-bye
  1263. 47:47>> you know so I think this is where I
  1264. 47:50think
  1265. 47:51it's all each thing has to be a learning
  1266. 47:55when you learn something then you put it
  1267. 47:57into the system and it becomes part of
  1268. 47:59your vocabulary and I think
  1269. 48:03as much as everyone else is looking at
  1270. 48:05it I am thinking about that every Hey,
  1271. 48:07like you know what do I do to try to
  1272. 48:09make it uh costefficient? What am I
  1273. 48:12thinking to do it where it's
  1274. 48:14environmentally friendly? How can I
  1275. 48:17get
  1276. 48:19more like younger people involved? You
  1277. 48:23know what I mean? For me, like I've
  1278. 48:24always believed inside the teams,
  1279. 48:26>> especially in the web and especially
  1280. 48:27here, it's like
  1281. 48:29>> the younger the talent, the more
  1282. 48:31opportunity, the more that younger
  1283. 48:33talent can learn inside a brand like I
  1284. 48:35did, then the better this industry will
  1285. 48:37become.
  1286. 48:38>> So for me, Dior is
  1287. 48:42is is such a big kind of metropolis that
  1288. 48:45it can have so many aspects of that. So,
  1289. 48:48and this takes time and I think um and
  1290. 48:52that's what I find exciting the most is
  1291. 48:54that
  1292. 48:56you have you have to kind of set out
  1293. 48:58your your own kind of private vision for
  1294. 49:02the future and then you cannot do it
  1295. 49:05overnight. You have to guess slowly kind
  1296. 49:07of be like, okay, we're going to sort
  1297. 49:08this out and then we're going to get
  1298. 49:09this
  1299. 49:10>> and if it doesn't happen this season,
  1300. 49:11we'll get it next season. You know, I
  1301. 49:14think if we take that approach, then I
  1302. 49:16think we can get to a better solution in
  1303. 49:19the end. And I think with like when I
  1304. 49:21look at back at my time at Lov, I think
  1305. 49:24I think it's a beautiful brand. No
  1306. 49:27matter if I was there or not, it's a
  1307. 49:28beautiful brand. And I think Dior has
  1308. 49:32that and you've got to kind of take it
  1309. 49:35on to the future again. So you've got
  1310. 49:38>> and you probably didn't know when you
  1311. 49:40started at Lee where it would end up. So
  1312. 49:42this is a journey, right?
  1313. 49:43>> So I I have no idea and I think that's
  1314. 49:46what I love about what I do. I think
  1315. 49:48that's what all designers love. It is
  1316. 49:49about in the end
  1317. 49:53it is about creation.
  1318. 49:56>> But I have to have the responsibility to
  1319. 50:01the hund thousands of people who work
  1320. 50:03here to make sure it works.
  1321. 50:05>> You know what I mean? So I have to kind
  1322. 50:07of bal it's a balancing act. So it's
  1323. 50:10sort of like you're trying to kind of
  1324. 50:12make sure that the customer that is
  1325. 50:13existing who is loyal to the brand which
  1326. 50:15has evolved over the years
  1327. 50:18meets with my new aesthetic. And you
  1328. 50:21don't want it to be like hot and cold
  1329. 50:23water. You know I've I always have this
  1330. 50:25like vision of like when I started this
  1331. 50:29brand and then I started to work in it.
  1332. 50:30It's like there's always this like
  1333. 50:32Instagram video of like I think it's
  1334. 50:34like two it's like salt water and like
  1335. 50:36um
  1336. 50:39natural water meeting and how they don't
  1337. 50:41mix.
  1338. 50:42>> You don't want that in store.
  1339. 50:44>> Yeah. So like you have to be able to
  1340. 50:45cater to
  1341. 50:47the current client base which is why
  1342. 50:49those meetings you had are important but
  1343. 50:51you're also trying to cater to new
  1344. 50:53clients who are trying to bring into the
  1345. 50:54business. That's a fine balance right
  1346. 50:56balance. So you're trying to keep people
  1347. 50:57like slightly entertained. You're trying
  1348. 50:59to keep this. You're trying to um But
  1349. 51:02you have to do that. The brand Dior is
  1350. 51:05is not the size of Louis.
  1351. 51:07>> Yeah.
  1352. 51:08>> It is, you know, Dior is it is a a is a
  1353. 51:12big machine
  1354. 51:13>> and it has a big audience
  1355. 51:17>> that expects certain things from from a
  1356. 51:19brand's
  1357. 51:20>> heritage, you know. So,
  1358. 51:23so you you become quite um
  1359. 51:27uh it's very grounding the process I
  1360. 51:31think you know because it's it's not
  1361. 51:34>> um everything is a learning experience
  1362. 51:36and I think that is
  1363. 51:38>> can be tough on days I am only human but
  1364. 51:42at the same time it is incredibly
  1365. 51:43rewarding because you're kind of like
  1366. 51:45you're you're you know it's like couture
  1367. 51:47I have never I've never worked with
  1368. 51:50tillia like that I've done that bags
  1369. 51:52with it at it till of that of that
  1370. 51:54scale. But in clothing I had
  1371. 51:56>> I had a very good atilier but this is a
  1372. 51:58kind of different scale.
  1373. 52:00>> So let's go back to the very beginning
  1374. 52:03because when you walked in to the
  1375. 52:06atelier you had a meeting with John
  1376. 52:10Galliano
  1377. 52:11and
  1378. 52:13>> he brought some cichlomen Yeah. flowers
  1379. 52:16in and I'm curious if you tell us that
  1380. 52:19story but also
  1381. 52:21>> yeah tell us that story for
  1382. 52:23>> so I had I I had finished the woman's
  1383. 52:25collection and a week before the show I
  1384. 52:30because of the noise and the nervousness
  1385. 52:32of the whole thing I had asked Olivier
  1386. 52:36do you think John would come to see the
  1387. 52:39collection before I go and do press
  1388. 52:41previews I would like him to see it
  1389. 52:43because when I was at university. He was
  1390. 52:46like a hero like he and still to this
  1391. 52:48day as a hero and he is Dior in the
  1392. 52:52public imagination still to this day,
  1393. 52:54you know, because what he built was like
  1394. 52:57this big, you know, in in the kind of
  1395. 53:00rebirth of fashion because in a weird
  1396. 53:02way after the 80s, fashion then suddenly
  1397. 53:06became part of the popular culture
  1398. 53:07again, you know, like it kind of just
  1399. 53:09ballooned.
  1400. 53:11So I was like, would he come anyway? And
  1401. 53:14John very kindly agreed to coming. And
  1402. 53:17when he turned up, I have I've only met
  1403. 53:18him twice in my life. First when I
  1404. 53:21joined Lefay and and then here and he
  1405. 53:23came um with his wonderful boyfriend and
  1406. 53:27>> Alexi.
  1407. 53:27>> Alexi and they turned up and I just
  1408. 53:32thought it was like I really loved him
  1409. 53:35being even though this is not the
  1410. 53:37building he was in, I loved him being
  1411. 53:39back in Dior. Do you mean I I you know
  1412. 53:42for me it was just like it was like it
  1413. 53:45was like a kind of like I felt like I
  1414. 53:47was like oh
  1415. 53:49>> full circle moment.
  1416. 53:50>> It was a full circle moment of being
  1417. 53:52like a student and then looking up to
  1418. 53:54him and still to this day look up to him
  1419. 53:58and then he he came with these two
  1420. 54:00bunches of cichl wild cichlemen that he
  1421. 54:03had like kind of tied um black ribbon
  1422. 54:06around and they were like perfect. And
  1423. 54:08then he had this like bag of um uh food
  1424. 54:12from Tesco, of like sweets and crisps
  1425. 54:14and Doritos and things like that for the
  1426. 54:17team. And we had this great chat and it
  1427. 54:20was just it was a very kind of calming
  1428. 54:24process in something where you're kind
  1429. 54:26of like walking into something
  1430. 54:30there's not many people would understand
  1431. 54:33but him. And um and I because the the
  1432. 54:38because these cichlmen I just I found
  1433. 54:41them the most I love wild cichlemen when
  1434. 54:43you go at like at you know about two
  1435. 54:47months ago you will see it all
  1436. 54:48underneath the forest floor
  1437. 54:51and it's a plant that always reminds me
  1438. 54:53of my childhood and then he he brought
  1439. 54:56them and then they went into these two
  1440. 54:57things. I was like they became this sort
  1441. 55:00of like talismatic kind of thing that I
  1442. 55:02was like I'm very superstitious and I
  1443. 55:05was like okay that is the starting point
  1444. 55:07for this collection as a kind of pink
  1445. 55:10and black you know
  1446. 55:12>> it was like
  1447. 55:13>> it was nearly like a kind of like uh
  1448. 55:17meant to be and then it became the the
  1449. 55:20ceiling of the entire uh
  1450. 55:22>> so like that show is uh the under of
  1451. 55:26forest where they Bro, it's all in
  1452. 55:28mirror. The invitation is an entire
  1453. 55:31remake of the posie in a box but real.
  1454. 55:34The head pieces are where like the we
  1455. 55:37have embroidered all the flowers
  1456. 55:39individually by hand. So they're like
  1457. 55:41these kind of toughs. They're they are
  1458. 55:43the gift and then you would put it on
  1459. 55:45because what I love about John is that
  1460. 55:48it is emotional. Everything is like a
  1461. 55:51kind of an emotional jet. He he is when
  1462. 55:55I have ever received flowers, the best
  1463. 55:57flowers are from Jungalena. They are
  1464. 55:59like perfect like everything is like
  1465. 56:03there is an etiquette and there is a
  1466. 56:06kindness and I was just so that's where
  1467. 56:09it all started and I think
  1468. 56:10>> that's amazing. It's like 360 for myself
  1469. 56:15and it's and it's sort of um
  1470. 56:19and when you meet a hero like that in
  1471. 56:22the job that he did when you go to the
  1472. 56:25museum and you see and every single
  1473. 56:27person probably listening,
  1474. 56:29you know, he changed fashion and and I
  1475. 56:32want I wanted to bring him back in and
  1476. 56:36you know, you need the advice from
  1477. 56:37someone like that, especially in a house
  1478. 56:39like Dior. Did he give you any advice?
  1479. 56:42>> The the one line that I think was
  1480. 56:44because he's John is incredibly
  1481. 56:47intelligent was
  1482. 56:49the more that you love Dior the brand,
  1483. 56:53the more it will give you back.
  1484. 56:57>> Interesting. What do you think he meant
  1485. 56:59by that?
  1486. 57:00>> I think it's the more that you love the
  1487. 57:02people in it, the more that you give
  1488. 57:03into it, the more that you kind of
  1489. 57:05>> the more it will give you it will tell
  1490. 57:07you what to do.
  1491. 57:09And I think
  1492. 57:12and I think I do use that like and
  1493. 57:15sometimes you you need these little like
  1494. 57:18you need these little tidbits of advice
  1495. 57:20from people because it is daunting and
  1496. 57:24you need these little things to kind of
  1497. 57:26make you feel okay I am going in the
  1498. 57:28right direction or maybe I'm not you
  1499. 57:30know it sort of and I think it was a
  1500. 57:34I needed to I needed to do that you know
  1501. 57:36sometimes you have to do these certain
  1502. 57:38things to kind of um
  1503. 57:42actually just to just to be in reality.
  1504. 57:46>> Mhm.
  1505. 57:47>> You know, it's sort of like when you
  1506. 57:49have this like mountain
  1507. 57:52o of a creative like um Galliano, it is
  1508. 57:57better to kind of confront it and be at
  1509. 58:00one with it than kind of be petrified of
  1510. 58:02it, you know. And um and for me, Dior,
  1511. 58:06as much as Christian Dior started the
  1512. 58:07brand, Dior for me when I was young was
  1513. 58:11John Aliano. So, and I think for a lot
  1514. 58:13of people it is, you know. So,
  1515. 58:16>> it was great. It was a
  1516. 58:19it was humbling in a in a
  1517. 58:22>> it's a really beautiful moment and it's
  1518. 58:25a beautiful sentiment and it feels like
  1519. 58:27you have put a ton of love into this.
  1520. 58:30>> Yeah. and you've made it accessible
  1521. 58:33to so many more people
  1522. 58:35um than would normally have been able to
  1523. 58:37experience your couture. So, I can't
  1524. 58:40wait to see the show.
  1525. 58:42>> I can't wait to see it all come to life.
  1526. 58:44I'm so grateful that you shared so much
  1527. 58:47of that with me
  1528. 58:49>> before the show and [music]
  1529. 58:52>> by the time this conversation comes out,
  1530. 58:54it will have been the collection will
  1531. 58:56have been out in the world. [music]
  1532. 58:57But um yeah, I I can't wait to see it.
  1533. 59:00Congratulations.
  1534. 59:01>> Thank you very much for coming. All
  1535. 59:02right.

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