How to Boost Collagen After 30: Red Light Therapy, Retinoids and More — Transcript
Full transcript
- 0:00All of us are losing collagen every
- 0:02single day. And this starts to
- 0:04accelerate especially in your 30s. And
- 0:07in this video, we're going to be talking
- 0:08about how to support and build your
- 0:10collagen as we age. We're going to talk
- 0:12about why you lose it, the changes of
- 0:13aging both intrinsically and
- 0:15extrinsically, and what you should do
- 0:17and can do to stop this. What's up
- 0:19everyone? We're back. I'm Dr. Shah.
- 0:21>> Dr. Maxfield.
- 0:21>> Welcome back to our channel Doctorly,
- 0:23where we talk about all things skin care
- 0:24and dermatology and how to take care of
- 0:26your skin as you age. And in this video,
- 0:28we're going to be deep diving on
- 0:30collagen. How it breaks down as you age.
- 0:32Why does it break down? Is it just the
- 0:33sunlight? Are there other factors that
- 0:34play a role? We have some very
- 0:35interesting stuff from studies and why
- 0:37it's actually important to intervene
- 0:38relatively early and we'll be going over
- 0:40that in this video. And then we're going
- 0:41to be talking about simple interventions
- 0:42that you can take in order to preserve
- 0:44your collagen as you age.
- 0:45>> So everything building collagen, here we
- 0:47go. Here we go.
- 0:52>> So when we think about collagen, we have
- 0:54to think about where it is in the skin.
- 0:56So at the very top layer of the skin,
- 0:57you have the epidermis. That's where
- 0:58your skin cells are. And then below the
- 1:00epidermis is the dermis and that's the
- 1:01collagen layer of the skin. And this is
- 1:03what gives our skin volume. And we have
- 1:04to think about the actual cell that
- 1:06creates collagen and that is the
- 1:08fibroblast. And so as long as the
- 1:09fibroblast is working properly, you'll
- 1:11continue to produce collagen. But just
- 1:12like any other cell in the body, the
- 1:14fibroblast eventually gets fatigued as
- 1:15we age and it just doesn't function as
- 1:17well. And it actually turns out that
- 1:18this is a self-perpetuating cycle.
- 1:20Meaning that once your collagen starts
- 1:22to get damaged, those fragments actually
- 1:25send signals to the fibroblast to stop
- 1:26producing collagen. And then when you
- 1:28have less collagen, your fibroblast,
- 1:30because they're not as tightly held
- 1:32anymore, they start to become less
- 1:33efficient. So what you see here is
- 1:34actually a self-perpetuating cycle of
- 1:37collagen loss. Once it starts, it
- 1:38actually starts to get worse because
- 1:40it's perpetuating itself. This is why
- 1:42it's very important to start to
- 1:43intervene earlier to make sure that it
- 1:45actually becomes reversible rather than
- 1:47intervening later. So when we're talking
- 1:49about this, here are our top five tips
- 1:50to help support your collagen. So first
- 1:52step, we have to talk about prevention.
- 1:54So the first thing that I would say is
- 1:56sunscreen. You want to look for a broad
- 1:57spectrum sunscreen, at least SPF 30.
- 1:59That's going to protect you against UVB
- 2:01rays, but specifically you also want to
- 2:02protect against UVA rays cuz these are
- 2:04longer wavelength and they actually
- 2:05directly damage your collagen. And so
- 2:07you want to look for something broad
- 2:08spectrum in the United States. Outside
- 2:09of the United States, you'll see
- 2:11something called PA+++++
- 2:13on your sunscreen. These protect you
- 2:15against UVA and so that's going to be
- 2:16very important. You want to do that
- 2:17every single day for your skin, which is
- 2:19why people who use tanning beds always
- 2:20look a lot older is because of that
- 2:22direct collagen damage. The second thing
- 2:24you want to look for is an antioxidant
- 2:25in your skin care routine, which is very
- 2:27important in the morning. Something like
- 2:28a vitamin C is going to play a big role
- 2:29here, scavenging free radicals to
- 2:32prevent damage to your cells. And then
- 2:35finally, diet. So when it comes to diet,
- 2:37one of the most consistent things you'll
- 2:38see is that a high glycemic index diet,
- 2:40which means something like a simple
- 2:41carbohydrate is rapidly converted to
- 2:43free glucose or free sugar in your
- 2:45blood. This is pro-inflammatory.
- 2:46Psoriasis, acne, metabolic syndrome, and
- 2:49it causes something called end product
- 2:50glycation where it directly damages
- 2:52cells either in your skin or your whole
- 2:54body. So we know that sugar directly
- 2:56glycates collagen, making it stiffer,
- 2:58making it less functional, and
- 3:00definitely contribute to aging. Now our
- 3:01next tip is topical treatments for your
- 3:03collagen. This is some of the most
- 3:05common steps that people will take, most
- 3:07common things people will incorporate
- 3:08into their routine to try to help the
- 3:10health of their skin. So there's four
- 3:12things that I would essentially look for
- 3:14in this category. Number one would be
- 3:16argot, which is retinoids. Now these are
- 3:19a lot of different products out there.
- 3:21So you have your retinol, you have your
- 3:22retinaldehyde, you also have your
- 3:24retinyl in adapalene, tazarotene, right?
- 3:27Anything in this retinoid family is
- 3:28going to directly stimulate collagen
- 3:30production. It's also going to speed up
- 3:31skin cell turnover, which is another
- 3:32sign that happens as we age. And so this
- 3:35is going to be probably the number one
- 3:36ingredient to look for. The next
- 3:37ingredient that I would look for is an
- 3:39alpha hydroxy acid. Alpha hydroxy acids,
- 3:41specifically like glycolic acid, can
- 3:43actually send signals into your dermis
- 3:45to stimulate your collagen production.
- 3:46Next I would look for peptides and there
- 3:48is a array of peptides. So definitely
- 3:50not a one-size-fits-all here. But one of
- 3:52the ingredients like Matrixyl, which is
- 3:54a combination of two different peptides
- 3:55that play a role in collagen synthesis,
- 3:57would be something to look for. Now,
- 3:58there are other proprietary ones like
- 4:00ones from Neutrogena that can also have
- 4:01a similar effect on the skin. And then
- 4:03finally, I would say topical estrogen in
- 4:06people that have gone through menopause
- 4:07could play a role, but the data is a bit
- 4:10iffy and the safety is a bit iffy as
- 4:12well.
- 4:12>> Right. And that one is uh perhaps more
- 4:13thoughtfully introduced into each
- 4:15person's routine. Again, very
- 4:16personalized, individualized. I do think
- 4:18that it is going to be beneficial for a
- 4:20lot of people and we do know that
- 4:21estrogen decrease during menopause
- 4:23sharply increases the amount of collagen
- 4:26loss. It accelerates it rapidly. So, I
- 4:27do think that can be helpful for a lot
- 4:28of people.
- 4:29>> Right. And this is definitely something
- 4:30you want to have a discussion with your
- 4:31doctor. You want to make sure first that
- 4:33you're taking the right form and second
- 4:34that you're not risking any issues that
- 4:36can be exacerbated by using topical
- 4:38estrogen. And so, this is something that
- 4:39you want to closely talk to your doctor
- 4:40with and this is a sort of an advancing
- 4:42and evolving part of the scientific
- 4:44realm of dermatology. So, definitely
- 4:45check back with us as this sort of
- 4:47evolves.
- 4:47>> And then also grabbing one of our
- 4:49antioxidants that we talked about
- 4:50before, vitamin C. This is also an
- 4:52essential cofactor for collagen
- 4:53synthesis. So, topically it does double
- 4:55duty.
- 4:55>> The next tip would be using LED therapy.
- 4:58Now, there's in-office LED therapy
- 5:00actually and then there's also these
- 5:02at-home options that are available. But
- 5:04how this works is that like you said,
- 5:05the fibroblast plays a big role here and
- 5:08we actually have a lot of really good
- 5:09data. We did a video maybe 5 years ago
- 5:11on LED, which we can link and talk about
- 5:13all the science behind LED. But there's
- 5:14a process called photobiomodulation and
- 5:16this specifically happens with red light
- 5:18and near infrared light where basically
- 5:20it directly stimulates those fibroblasts
- 5:23to produce more healthy collagen. And it
- 5:25also has some anti-inflammatory benefits
- 5:27to the skin, which is important because
- 5:28once the collagen starts to break down,
- 5:30these inflammatory cascades start to
- 5:32happen that continue to create that
- 5:34collagen breakdown. And so, it does two
- 5:36things. One, it increases collagen
- 5:37production through your fibroblasts, but
- 5:39it also decreases the inflammation that
- 5:41causes that cascade of collagen
- 5:43breakdown. And so, this is where LED
- 5:44plays a big role in aging.
- 5:46>> Right. And LED is one of those things
- 5:47we've always talked about kind of that
- 5:48complements a complete routine. So, make
- 5:51sure you have your sun protection, make
- 5:52sure you have your gold standard topical
- 5:54treatments, and then LED is a great way
- 5:55to add a completely different mechanism
- 5:57to help support your skin. Now, we've
- 5:59talked about multiple different ways to
- 6:01use this in helmet and mask, and this
- 6:03one we're going to highlight today from
- 6:05CurrentBody. Shout out to them for
- 6:06sponsoring this video is a panel. Now,
- 6:09this panel is very versatile. I've been
- 6:11using this now well for quite some time,
- 6:13but consistently I've hit it for the
- 6:14last month in different settings. And I
- 6:16particularly love the way you can really
- 6:18just personalize this or use it in
- 6:20different areas to treat not just your
- 6:22face, but your whole body. So, this is
- 6:23the CurrentBody LED panel, which is
- 6:25actually pretty cool, and you can get it
- 6:27alone with just the panel, or you could
- 6:29get it with the dock and essentially be
- 6:31able to set up on the table, put your
- 6:32face in it. And it has this handheld
- 6:34remote, which allows us to have more
- 6:35power essentially to it. And so, what
- 6:37you have here is this flexibility,
- 6:40right? So, you can have it flat, so you
- 6:41can treat your chest where a lot of
- 6:42people have that wrinkling that occurs
- 6:44on the décolletage, so you can use it on
- 6:46the chest. You could use it on the back.
- 6:48You could use it on the arms. You could
- 6:49use it on the stomach. So, it just gives
- 6:50you flexibility. You can also wrap it
- 6:52around your face, use it as a face mask.
- 6:54You can also stand further back from it,
- 6:55so they have a low power mode, and the
- 6:57low power mode actually mimics what they
- 6:58have in their mask. So, similar sort of
- 7:01power and irradiance in that. And so,
- 7:03you're able to put your face directly
- 7:04into it, or you're able to actually put
- 7:06it in high power mode and stand 6 in
- 7:08away from it. And then that way you can
- 7:10get basically more of a wider treatment
- 7:12area, and it can treat other parts of
- 7:14the body. You can stick it on your back
- 7:16with a strap. There's many different
- 7:17ways that you can use this. What's cool
- 7:18about this is it has both the red light,
- 7:20near infrared light, and deep infrared
- 7:22light, and that's really going to be
- 7:23targeted more towards your aging. And
- 7:24then it also has the blue light, which
- 7:26is targeting a bit more of that
- 7:27acne-prone skin. So, if you wanted to
- 7:29use the blue light setting because you
- 7:30have breakouts on the face or even on
- 7:32the back like I do, you could customize
- 7:35this so that it's treating the different
- 7:36areas and the problem concerns that you
- 7:37have. All right, now we're going to talk
- 7:38about the technical specifications of
- 7:40this device, and I particularly love the
- 7:43level of candor they have. I mean, go
- 7:44right to their website, it tells you 136
- 7:46LEDs with four chip sets. It's 544,
- 7:49breaks down the wavelength, breaks down
- 7:50the treatment time, whether it's 10 for
- 7:52low mode, 20 for high level, and then it
- 7:54also breaks down the actual strength per
- 7:57mode and per setting you've got it on.
- 7:59The whole dosage, it's all there that
- 8:00you can just actually look up on your
- 8:01own. And I love how that's quantified.
- 8:03And the other interesting thing that
- 8:04CurrentBody does in general is that they
- 8:06test each LED light to make sure that it
- 8:09falls within the specifications.
- 8:10>> And so, they actually have a small
- 8:11margin of error to actually the
- 8:13wavelength that you're trying to deliver
- 8:15in the skin, right? So, you'll see that
- 8:16it's 633 nm plus or minus two. And they
- 8:19test each individual bulb before they
- 8:21set it into the mask or into the panel.
- 8:23And And so, that that level of precision
- 8:25can give you the confidence that it's
- 8:26going to deliver the light that you need
- 8:28to actually have it work. Some of the
- 8:29ways that I've been using it, I'll kind
- 8:31of cater it towards my face. Again, I
- 8:33like the high mode, so turn it on. It
- 8:35comes with these goggles, which are very
- 8:38important. If you're going to use the
- 8:39high setting, this is a very strong
- 8:41light. You want to make sure that you're
- 8:43wearing the goggles to protect your
- 8:44eyes.
- 8:44>> Right. And so, you want to be about 6 in
- 8:46away. That's one way to use it. Now,
- 8:48other ways you can use it, and I've used
- 8:50it, too, you can be shirtless and panel
- 8:53for your body. And then also, it comes
- 8:54with these straps. You can attach it to
- 8:56yourself, it's adjustable, arms, legs,
- 8:59chest, I mean, abdomen, back. It
- 9:01actually does make it treatable and
- 9:02reachable to areas you'd have a lot of
- 9:04difficulty with otherwise. So,
- 9:05ultimately, there's a lot of flexibility
- 9:07in how you can use this panel, and we'll
- 9:08put a link below for you to check it
- 9:10out. Now,
- 9:11>> whatever type of LED that you're using,
- 9:13the main thing is you have to be
- 9:14consistent to see results. So, no matter
- 9:16which one you get, you have to use it at
- 9:17least three days a week. I would venture
- 9:19up to five days a week to really see the
- 9:21results that you want to see when you're
- 9:22supporting your collagen.
- 9:23>> next tip are procedures that
- 9:24specifically target controlled
- 9:26remodeling. So, what does that mean?
- 9:27Basically, your body has these injury
- 9:30mechanisms. And it sounds insane, but
- 9:32when you start slightly injure yourself,
- 9:33these wound healing mechanisms also
- 9:35stimulate fibroblasts, cuz scars are
- 9:37actually made of collagen. Now, it's
- 9:39generally disorganized collagen, and we
- 9:40don't want you to have scarring, of
- 9:42course. But if you can stimulate
- 9:43controlled remodeling, then you can
- 9:44actually build healthier collagen. And
- 9:46so, this is how actually a lot of the
- 9:48in-office treatments that we do actually
- 9:50work for the skin. So, one way is by
- 9:52microneedling. Microtrauma to your
- 9:53collagen and your skin cells can signal
- 9:56to the fibroblasts to produce more
- 9:57collagen in a controlled manner. And so,
- 9:59whether you're doing microfusion at home
- 10:00or whether you're doing microneedling,
- 10:02which is actually directly stimulating
- 10:03your collagen, this will actually cause
- 10:04that
- 10:05>> controlled remodeling. And there are
- 10:06other options that we have in the office
- 10:07as well. And in the office, we'll start
- 10:08with something that has just a wide
- 10:10degree of variation, and that's chemical
- 10:11peel. So, these range from very
- 10:13superficial to deep. And depending on
- 10:15the depth, that will determine the
- 10:17results you get. Now, most peels are
- 10:19probably superficial moderate to
- 10:20moderate peels, but even that strength
- 10:23can have a significant effect at both
- 10:25improving the texture quality towards
- 10:26the surface and signaling for deeper
- 10:28collagen to be stimulated and grow.
- 10:30Yeah, and I would argue that chemical
- 10:31peels are actually underrated. We've got
- 10:32this laser boom, which we'll talk about
- 10:34next.
- 10:35>> But I actually think chemical peels, the
- 10:36result that you get in sort of that
- 10:37glass skin appearance, is hard to come
- 10:39by. And I'm going to be committed to
- 10:40doing more chemical peels myself, cuz I
- 10:42actually do think the results are quite
- 10:44good. Now, let's talk about lasers, cuz
- 10:45this is how a lot of lasers also work in
- 10:47dermatology. So, when we talk about
- 10:48fractional lasers or even fully ablative
- 10:50lasers, basically what they do, when
- 10:52you're talking about CO2 or Fraxel or
- 10:55Erbium even, even though can be a bit
- 10:57more superficial, is that they stimulate
- 11:00collagen production by causing this
- 11:01microtrauma to the skin and doing it in
- 11:03a very controlled way. And you can
- 11:05actually tweak the settings based on
- 11:06skin tones, and so you get a lot of
- 11:07control with lasers. But this is
- 11:09essentially what lasers are going to do.
- 11:10They're going to resurface that top
- 11:11layer of the skin, but they're also
- 11:12going to stimulate that collagen
- 11:14production over time.
- 11:15>> And lasers give you some of the most
- 11:16dramatic results in terms of texture,
- 11:18wrinkles, and some of the clinical
- 11:20endpoints, like the things that we
- 11:21perceive in the mirror, those are some
- 11:22of the endpoints of what collagen
- 11:24destruction, collagen change looks like
- 11:25over time. And so, lasers give you some
- 11:27of the most stark contrast before and
- 11:29afters. It's a a investment, but it
- 11:31really can be great if your skin tone
- 11:32can tolerate it. And the last tip is be
- 11:35cautious of things with a word collagen
- 11:37in it.
- 11:38>> This is probably the biggest tip that we
- 11:39can give here is that collagen, we've
- 11:42all heard we're losing it, we all feel
- 11:43we need it. So, brands will throw the
- 11:45word collagen on a product and then
- 11:47think that you're somehow going to be
- 11:48supporting your collagen. But like we
- 11:49said, none of the tips that we've given
- 11:51so far have anything to do with the word
- 11:53collagen so far, right? The mechanisms
- 11:55are the things that we're really
- 11:56interested in. And so, what you'll find
- 11:58is a lot of topical skin care products
- 12:00>> say the word, you know, loud and proud
- 12:01collagen on it. And you'll also see oral
- 12:04supplements that have the word collagen
- 12:06on it. And so, let's talk about topicals
- 12:07first.
- 12:08>> topical collagen, this is a large
- 12:10molecule. And because of that, it has
- 12:12difficulty getting into the skin and
- 12:13being significant. So, the way I like to
- 12:15think about this is there is like a
- 12:16jellyfish that lives forever. And if you
- 12:18put the jellyfish on your skin, you
- 12:19don't become the jellyfish, you won't
- 12:20live forever. And topical collagen is
- 12:22kind of the same way.
- 12:23>> Now, there are things you can do to get
- 12:25collagen into the skin either by
- 12:27changing the structure, increasing the
- 12:28permeability of the skin barrier. And
- 12:30so, sometimes it's useful, but mostly
- 12:31it's probably just going to be a
- 12:32humectant that lives on your skin.
- 12:34>> Right. So, it's too large to get into
- 12:35the skin. Now, the little challenging
- 12:37thing here is that brands know you're
- 12:38looking for collagen, and so they put
- 12:39collagen on loud and proud on the
- 12:41packaging. And in fact, they have, for
- 12:43example, a peptide like we talked about
- 12:44earlier that can stimulate collagen
- 12:46production. So, this is where it gets a
- 12:47bit tricky between marketing and finding
- 12:49what you actually need for the skin. But
- 12:50the key is to look for ingredients,
- 12:52either peptides that can penetrate the
- 12:53skin, retinoids that can stimulate
- 12:55collagen production, alpha hydroxy acids
- 12:57that can send signals deep into the
- 12:58dermis. These are the key ingredients
- 13:00you want to look for to stimulate your
- 13:01collagen production, and not the
- 13:02buzzword of collagen.
- 13:03>> Now, let's talk about oral collagen
- 13:05supplementation, because this is where
- 13:06things get a bit tricky. Because
- 13:08initially we used to say, and I still
- 13:10hold this to be true, is that if you
- 13:12were to drink collagen, collagen is too
- 13:14large to still even get absorbed into
- 13:16the gut and then somehow end up in your
- 13:17skin. But if you drink collagen
- 13:19peptides, which are hydrolyzed collagen,
- 13:21a breakdown of of the protein itself,
- 13:23can those get into the gut and can those
- 13:26fragments be the building blocks that
- 13:28then your fibroblasts use to produce
- 13:30collagen? I still think that the data is
- 13:32up in the air, but there is some
- 13:33stronger data coming out, but who knows
- 13:35which type of collagen to take at this
- 13:37point. And so, I would still be cautious
- 13:39of oral collagen and finding one that
- 13:41actually works, but I think that's an
- 13:43evolving data as well.
- 13:44>> Yeah, exactly. And we have a softer
- 13:45stance on that. Could it be helpful?
- 13:46Sure. For me, with all supplements, I
- 13:48think that they supplement whatever
- 13:50deficiencies you have in your diet. For
- 13:51me, sometimes I'm needing more
- 13:53supplements cuz I have like a quite good
- 13:54controlled diet and then I'll take
- 13:55something like amino acids. And it also
- 13:57speaks to collagen. You take collagen,
- 13:58it's broken down into the building
- 14:00blocks for your skin, like he said. And
- 14:01if you have a good balanced
- 14:03complimentary diet, whether that's meats
- 14:05or whether that's a combination of like
- 14:06legumes and grains, those also give you
- 14:08similar or not the same building blocks
- 14:10for your skin.
- 14:11>> Absolutely. And then, the same thing can
- 14:12be said about oral vitamin C. Taking
- 14:14mega doses of vitamin C, even though we
- 14:16know that vitamin C is a building block
- 14:18for collagen synthesis, doesn't
- 14:19necessarily mean that you're going to
- 14:20produce more collagen. I think the data
- 14:22shows that it doesn't. And so, just be
- 14:23cautious with any oral supplementation
- 14:25and be cautious of the buzzword collagen
- 14:27before you spend your money on a product
- 14:28that's going to stimulate collagen
- 14:30production. So, this is how we preserve
- 14:32our collagen in our 30s and beyond.
- 14:34Hopefully, you find this helpful. Be
- 14:35consistent, stay healthy, take care of
- 14:37your collagen.
- 14:38>> We appreciate you. Thank you for being
- 14:40on this journey. Shout out again to
- 14:41CurrentBody for this panel, letting us
- 14:43share this highlight with you.
- 14:44Hopefully, that's something you enjoy
- 14:45and is helpful for you, too. Thank you
- 14:47so much and we'll see you in the next
- 14:48video. See you next time.
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