How Merit Built a Cult Following Before It Had a Name with Aila Morin — Transcript
Full transcript
- 0:00So much of figuring out work as a
- 0:01marketer is to not associate your worth
- 0:03with whether or not it goes viral. The
- 0:05way we build product is by solving a
- 0:06problem. For us, it needed to be easy to
- 0:08apply. It needed to be non-acne
- 0:09triggering. It couldn't be drying,
- 0:10couldn't be cakey, needed to look like
- 0:12skin. We launched the product on
- 0:13meritbeauty.com and we did $100,000 in
- 0:15the first day.
- 0:16>> Tell me about something that has not
- 0:17worked.
- 0:18>> Oh my god, a million things. I'm very
- 0:19comfortable with failing. You can't
- 0:20think you get everything right for
- 0:21everybody all the time, right? Makeup is
- 0:23very subjective. And you have to have a
- 0:24sense of humor about the fact that not
- 0:26everybody's going to like everything.
- 0:27Building an authentic brand is being
- 0:28honest because we understand that making
- 0:29promises you can't keep affects the
- 0:31brand.
- 0:33>> Welcome to Process the Podcast, a
- 0:34meeting of creative minds. Let's dive
- 0:36in.
- 0:38So, Ayla, I am a huge Merit fan. I was
- 0:42actually doing my full face of Merit
- 0:43this morning and you know how the New
- 0:45York Knicks won and they and that thing
- 0:47came out and the guy was like, "My mayor
- 0:49is Muslim, my bagels are Jewish, and my
- 0:51Christian Dior." This morning I was
- 0:53like, "My hair is blow-waved, my makeup
- 0:56is Merit. Like, what is my
- 0:58>> [laughter]
- 1:00>> I am such a true fan. So, thank you so
- 1:03much for joining me on Process. I'm
- 1:05really excited to jump into it.
- 1:07>> happy to be here.
- 1:08>> of chatting with the girls and I got put
- 1:10on the webinar as well about the new
- 1:12mascara launch and we'll talk about that
- 1:13formulation and everything as well. But
- 1:15when you did that, so many ideas came to
- 1:17mind about questions that I have for you
- 1:19and I think you did it sitting in the
- 1:20exact same spot that you're in right now
- 1:22where there's a mood board behind you,
- 1:24which is like, Process the Podcast is a
- 1:26show about We literally talk about the
- 1:28actual process of how you go from what
- 1:30to go and like, no, no, no, wait, don't
- 1:31just like gloss over it. Like, what did
- 1:33you literally do? So, when you came on
- 1:35screen and I saw your mood board behind
- 1:37you, I was like, "Oh my god, I want to
- 1:39zoom in. Like, what's on there?
- 1:41So, let's start at the very beginning of
- 1:43Merit. How did Merit literally come to
- 1:46be?"
- 1:46>> It was 2019 when I first started about
- 1:48it. I was working at Mejuri, a
- 1:50direct-to-consumer fine jewelry company.
- 1:52I met Katherine that summer and kind of
- 1:54chatted with her about doing beauty and
- 1:56what that would potentially look like.
- 1:58We didn't feel that compelled at that
- 1:59time that there was something super
- 2:01interesting to do. It felt like beauty
- 2:02was so incredibly saturated. I wasn't
- 2:04really sure what would be a net new
- 2:06idea. And it wasn't until 6 months later
- 2:08that I was shopping around the holidays
- 2:10that I felt like for me it really
- 2:11crystallized. And the way my brain works
- 2:13is always kind of through living, so
- 2:16through experiencing things. And when I
- 2:17was shopping, I was just really taken
- 2:19aback by how complex makeup was. I'd
- 2:22worked at a beauty counter for 10 years
- 2:24and it was like every single product I
- 2:26looked at required a manual on how to
- 2:27use it. It was the age of excess as I
- 2:29like to call it. So, 50 shades in an
- 2:31eyeshadow palette in a suitcase was a
- 2:33very standard thing to buy. And it just
- 2:35felt like this huge disconnect to me.
- 2:37So, I started working, you know,
- 2:38pre-brand. There was a deck in 2020. And
- 2:41then I signed my contract and COVID
- 2:43happened. And everyone stopped wearing
- 2:44makeup. So, it was amazing timing in
- 2:47many ways because I think what was a
- 2:49consumer shift we were already seeing
- 2:50rapidly accelerated during that time
- 2:52period and behavior really changed very
- 2:54quickly. I was so fortunate because
- 2:56Merit came to be because I had a year to
- 2:58study. We delayed the launch. I got to
- 3:00see how consumer behavior was changing.
- 3:02In that time I just got to be a student
- 3:03of seeing what brands did. It was the
- 3:05first time in my career I'd really had
- 3:06that time. And we kind of rebuilt the
- 3:08brand completely in terms of the
- 3:10identity and how it would resonate. And
- 3:11then we launched it in January 2021. So,
- 3:14a year and a half years ago now.
- 3:15>> What did it look like? Like what were
- 3:16the pillars that you were so compelled
- 3:18in the story to tell at that point?
- 3:20>> It's not that there were pillars at
- 3:21first that were that compelling. I think
- 3:23what was interesting to me is um
- 3:25Katherine had seen this this white space
- 3:26essentially that had come out of Who
- 3:28What Wear surveys on a consumer
- 3:30demographic that was millennial and Gen
- 3:31X. I think for me it was much more lived
- 3:34experience in that when I worked at the
- 3:35beauty counter, I mean I did it starting
- 3:37at age 15. So, you're talking about like
- 3:39almost 10 years. There was just this
- 3:41huge disconnect between what people
- 3:43asked me versus what I was seeing brands
- 3:45sell. People would come in and be like,
- 3:46"Oh, I'm looking for a mascara that
- 3:47doesn't clump." Or, "Can someone shade
- 3:49match me for a concealer?" Or, "You
- 3:50know, what's a good SPF for my skin
- 3:52type? Like they were very
- 3:53straightforward questions. It wasn't how
- 3:55do I do a cut crease and how do I do an
- 3:57eyeshadow look with four different
- 3:58shades? Like that was never something
- 4:00anybody asked me. So, what I was very
- 4:01clear on is that the product market fit
- 4:03wasn't there in a lot of what was being
- 4:05done and as someone that had worked in
- 4:06makeup for 10 years, it was kind of
- 4:08crazy that I felt I didn't have the
- 4:09skill set when that was quite literally
- 4:11my job. So, I think we spent a lot of
- 4:13time developing the brand over that time
- 4:15period, working with our our VP of
- 4:17creative who I still work with to create
- 4:19a new brand book and to figure out
- 4:20understanding this problem, right? This
- 4:22this white space consumer and the
- 4:23problem is that we're not actually
- 4:25creating products that she uses every
- 4:26day.
- 4:27How do we solve for that? And how do we
- 4:28build for that? And a lot of that became
- 4:30both a brand philosophy and a business
- 4:32philosophy because as you watch the
- 4:34mistakes that people made during COVID,
- 4:36the primary one being at that time all
- 4:38beauty brands had a hero that was 60 to
- 4:4080% of their business and during COVID
- 4:42if people stopped wearing it, like a
- 4:43matte liquid lipstick or a foundation,
- 4:45your whole business was at risk. So,
- 4:47developing routine, developing
- 4:49diversified channel strategy, those
- 4:51things were business reactions. But
- 4:52also, there were brand reactions to can
- 4:54you look at a beauty brand and identify
- 4:56it outside of a product? If you took the
- 4:57products out of the image, would you
- 4:59know what brand it is? We did a lot of
- 5:00that exercise because at that point that
- 5:02didn't really exist and we were always
- 5:03interested in building Merit as a a
- 5:05lifestyle brand that was a little bit
- 5:06more holistic as opposed to a beauty
- 5:08brand with a hero and a certain
- 5:09aesthetic.
- 5:10>> So, when you say you were really
- 5:11interested in trying to build a brand
- 5:13that if you literally remove the
- 5:14product, the brand would still exist,
- 5:16how did you literally do that? Were you
- 5:18in the trenches of mood boarding being
- 5:20like, I see it. This is the vision. Like
- 5:22this is what it is.
- 5:23>> So, I always say the hardest thing in
- 5:25brand creation is it's very hard to know
- 5:27what you like and what a brand likes,
- 5:28especially in the early days, right? So,
- 5:30so many of the references that Lola
- 5:32who's really my creative partner and I
- 5:33would would sit and pull would be what
- 5:35are images that feel really resonant for
- 5:37us? For us, that was a lot of 90s. It
- 5:38was a lot of very simple. It was pulling
- 5:41a lot of fabric swatches, a lot of book
- 5:42references. I don't just pull from the
- 5:45internet. I find that it's super
- 5:46limiting if you do that because the
- 5:47algorithm just serves you things it's
- 5:49serving everybody else cuz it serves you
- 5:50what's trending.
- 5:51>> Fishing from the same pond kind of vibe.
- 5:53>> Totally. So, even back then it was like
- 5:55pulling out the vintage print like I
- 5:57keep huge stacks of old Vogue magazines.
- 5:59Just pulling from every place like I'll
- 6:01upload save images all of that because
- 6:03it's so much cleaner to organize things
- 6:05in a way that's less influenced by
- 6:06traditional social algorithm. And then
- 6:08things like palette like a lot of it's
- 6:09gut in those days, right? Like there's
- 6:11no big brand guide on like consumers
- 6:13like this color. So, it becomes like
- 6:14what feels like it's expressing the
- 6:16feeling that you wanted to have, what
- 6:18feels like the gap that we see, and
- 6:20that's how it developed and came
- 6:21together over time. And in terms of the
- 6:22ethos, I think time was always what we
- 6:24kind of built it on. I think that almost
- 6:26every beauty brand has a front-facing
- 6:28founder who's a makeup artist or they're
- 6:30a celebrity. And that's an amazing way
- 6:32to build a brand, but it's a very
- 6:33specific way to build a brand. You're
- 6:34building a brand around a cult of
- 6:36personality. And for us, we wanted to
- 6:37build it around a belief system. Those
- 6:39are two very different things. And so,
- 6:41for us it was how do you solve a problem
- 6:42in an elegant way? How do you make
- 6:44people feel seen? That you understand
- 6:46what they're going through every single
- 6:46day? And how do you translate that in a
- 6:48way that's still aspirational and
- 6:49comfortable, but also something you use
- 6:51every single day. The actual
- 6:52manifestation of that, yes, is mood
- 6:54boarding. It's a ton of writing, ton of
- 6:55reference pulling. I buy a ton of old
- 6:58products on eBay that are no longer
- 6:59usable cuz they're expired, but give me
- 7:01great ideas. Because a lot of the things
- 7:02that live in my head are things that I
- 7:04was exposed to working in store. So,
- 7:06you're talking about over 20 years ago
- 7:08or even like childhood references. Like
- 7:09we'll remember a certain product from
- 7:10like 1994 that we'll buy. Like it it's a
- 7:13very interesting way of like pulling.
- 7:15It's a little bit more nostalgic, I
- 7:16think.
- 7:17>> I had a conversation with my mom the
- 7:18other day. She was like, "What are those
- 7:20pants you're wearing?" And I was like,
- 7:21"Aren't they so like Donna Karan 1998?"
- 7:25And I was born in 1992. And she looked
- 7:27at me and was like, "You weren't there."
- 7:29And I was like, "But you were there, so
- 7:31I was there. Like I was a sponge." And
- 7:33she was like looking at me like, "You're
- 7:35an idiot." Like it's so interesting. I
- 7:38was on the shop floor at a really
- 7:39prolific Australian brand, and that's
- 7:41where I sort of like learned to sell,
- 7:43and now I work as a video director. I
- 7:45can move product because of my time on
- 7:48the shop floor, and I understand the
- 7:49consumers, and like it's so important.
- 7:51So, whenever anybody asks me where they
- 7:54should start or what experience they
- 7:55should get, I'm like, "Get your ass on
- 7:56the shop floor." Like, learn what people
- 7:58what questions people want, like what
- 7:59they need. It's so interesting how as
- 8:00women like that's our foundation, but we
- 8:02don't even really realize that it's our
- 8:03foundation.
- 8:04>> Totally. I mean, and more than that, I
- 8:06was paid on commission. So, I had an
- 8:07hourly rate, but I also made a
- 8:09commission, which was super important
- 8:10for how I learned to build relationships
- 8:12with clients because it's not dissimilar
- 8:14to building LTV digitally. Because I
- 8:15always knew for me, first of all, I grew
- 8:18up in a very small town. So, where I
- 8:19first started working, like, very small
- 8:21pool of people that are buying Lancôme.
- 8:23There's one store with more high-end
- 8:24makeup. At that time, it was a town of
- 8:26like 10 to 15,000 people. So, you're
- 8:28talking about a very, very small group.
- 8:29And it was very clear to me from the
- 8:31beginning that it was about building a
- 8:32relationship. I was never pushy, I was
- 8:34never upselling, I was never like,
- 8:35"There's no dupe." I think it was at a
- 8:37Shoppers Drug Mart, and what's so
- 8:38different about that to what you see in
- 8:40the US is, you know, it was Lancôme,
- 8:41Smashbox, Clarins, Benefit, but across
- 8:43the aisle is Avène, La Roche-Posay, your
- 8:46French pharmacy, and then also mass
- 8:48makeup, like Maybelline, L'Oréal,
- 8:50Revlon, Almay back then. So, when I
- 8:52would meet someone, it was much more
- 8:53about building a relationship and
- 8:54understanding their concerns, and they
- 8:55would buy things from all three sectors,
- 8:57and I was never that upset about how
- 8:59much is in the first order. I was very
- 9:01much like, "How do I build a
- 9:02relationship with you? How do I make you
- 9:03feel like I'm going to answer the
- 9:04questions that maybe you don't feel like
- 9:05you can get the answers to?" And then
- 9:07eventually that would build into a
- 9:08long-term relationship, which would have
- 9:09a much longer LTV, and I'd commission
- 9:11over time. It's really funny because
- 9:13that experience for me is very front of
- 9:15mind. Even, you know, I learned how to
- 9:17do a lot of makeup techniques from Wayne
- 9:19Goss on YouTube because there was no
- 9:20formal training. Wayne Goss is now part
- 9:22of the panel of merit and is someone
- 9:24that consults on our products and our
- 9:25campaigns. So, it's very much almost
- 9:27everything I do is a reference to that
- 9:28time. I could never market something
- 9:30that I didn't love, but also I can't
- 9:31market something that I don't feel this
- 9:33deep personal adjacency to. For For it's
- 9:35so much a So much of marketing is
- 9:37listening, and I think it's the thing
- 9:38that most people forget. It's listening,
- 9:40it's pattern recognition, it's
- 9:41understanding concerns. It's the exact
- 9:43same thing as sales. It's uh To me,
- 9:45they're completely connected.
- 9:46>> Yeah, absolutely. So, take us back to
- 9:48the moment when you guys had to launch
- 9:50because also you do things a little bit
- 9:52slower than most from the way that you
- 9:55spoke to some of the formulations, the
- 9:57pacing, and that it doesn't seem
- 9:59deadline oriented. It seems like you
- 10:01guys are doing things when you're ready
- 10:03and when the market's ready and when you
- 10:04guys think it's right. I guess with that
- 10:06in mind, where did you literally start
- 10:09for Merit on the consumer side? Like,
- 10:11what was the first piece of content that
- 10:12you put out? Now, I know most people
- 10:13like wipe the decks of something is
- 10:15coming on their Instagram and archive
- 10:17everything like they figure it out. What
- 10:19did you guys literally do? Where did it
- 10:20begin?
- 10:21>> So, we actually had a handle that was
- 10:22called @mood, and it was a mood board.
- 10:25Um we launched it in October of 2019, so
- 10:283 months prior to launching the brand.
- 10:30We didn't say it was going to be a
- 10:31brand. Yeah, I used it to test content.
- 10:33So, we would post like repost post with
- 10:35writing like about sustainability or
- 10:37about everyday routine, and then I would
- 10:39look at sentiment, comments, likes, what
- 10:41did people repost, what did they engage
- 10:43with, and then slowly over time I got
- 10:45tighter and tighter on what the
- 10:46positioning was cuz I was testing it all
- 10:47every single post. And then in By early
- 10:50January prior to announcing the brand,
- 10:52we had 10,000 followers from the mood
- 10:54board. So, then we actually flipped the
- 10:56handle overnight before we launched it
- 10:58from @mood to @merit, and then announced
- 11:00it was going to be a brand. So, we had
- 11:01built this kind of community based on a
- 11:04way of thinking. And I think that's a
- 11:06very different way of building. There
- 11:07was no face. It it was very much like,
- 11:10what is the ethos that we're building
- 11:11towards, and what is this thing that
- 11:12you're feeling an emotional connection
- 11:14to, and then announced there was a
- 11:15brand. And then 2 weeks later we
- 11:16launched the product on meritbeauty.com,
- 11:18and we did $100,000 in the first day.
- 11:20Those 10,000 followers that it was just
- 11:22a mood board ended up being the initial
- 11:24converters who became brand fans. And
- 11:26again, that's the difference between
- 11:27building just product versus building a
- 11:29way of thinking or a lifestyle. Like,
- 11:30that's really what people came for, and
- 11:31that's ultimately why they converted.
- 11:33>> So what other pillars did you prop up in
- 11:34those moments? Like was it just the
- 11:3610,000 and it was an organic launch or
- 11:38was there a lot of paid spend? There was
- 11:40a whole lot of other gifting and seeding
- 11:42that went out.
- 11:43>> no paid spend at that time. So we did
- 11:45gifting, um, but I treated it much more
- 11:48like a focus group than I did like
- 11:49traditional gifting. So we actually had
- 11:51a Facebook page that was private that we
- 11:54added people to. And we did not pick
- 11:56influencers based on following size, we
- 11:57picked them based on what we thought was
- 11:59they'd be interested in it. So they were
- 12:00people who were saying like beauty was
- 12:02really overwhelming or having a position
- 12:03on that that we added and sent product.
- 12:05We asked them not to share it for three
- 12:07and a half months. That's really
- 12:08unusual, right? There was no like mailer
- 12:11and opening stories. It was just like,
- 12:13here's this product. Please try it for
- 12:14three months. If you love it, please
- 12:15share it when we launch. If you don't,
- 12:17that's totally fine. And we used it to
- 12:18get feedback. They would get comments
- 12:19even before we launched about like, oh,
- 12:21I wish you made this shade or I wish
- 12:22this existed. So we were already working
- 12:23on new NPD before we launched the brand
- 12:26because we were already having those
- 12:26conversations. To me that is, you know,
- 12:28community and influencer marketing I
- 12:30think can often be phrased as being
- 12:31unimportant. To me it is simply building
- 12:33relationships like you would with
- 12:34clients and learning from people. And in
- 12:36that way we had so many insights before
- 12:38we launched and also had such a great
- 12:39understanding of what was working and
- 12:41not working. And then that plus PR was
- 12:43really our initial launch. We didn't
- 12:45turn on paid marketing for the first
- 12:46four months. And then actually we
- 12:47launched in Sephora a month after we
- 12:49launched our direct to consumer and we
- 12:51sold out in like a month. So the first
- 12:53year the hardest part was we just didn't
- 12:55have product. We kind of came back into
- 12:56stock seven or eight months later. So I
- 12:58would love to say there was some grand
- 12:59plan on what we were talking about in
- 13:00year one, but really it was like well
- 13:02coordinated and then we were just
- 13:03talking about whatever products we
- 13:04actually had available. So we were a lot
- 13:05more limited.
- 13:06>> [laughter]
- 13:07>> It was a lot less intentional than I
- 13:08would like to be able to say it was
- 13:10because it was whatever we had
- 13:11available.
- 13:12>> Yeah, wow. So it feels like there was so
- 13:13much trust from the get-go for you to
- 13:15just not be a slave to a P&L, but really
- 13:18to work out what this is and how this is
- 13:21going to take shape.
- 13:22>> Yeah. Yeah, absolutely. I think what's
- 13:24so special, frankly, about working with
- 13:27people that have built a lot of
- 13:28businesses before is you can see the
- 13:30forest for the trees, right? You know
- 13:32what's a big deal and what's not a big
- 13:33deal, and I think so much of what we did
- 13:35prior to launch was let's take the time
- 13:36to do this right, and that was
- 13:38definitely a gift to be able to do that,
- 13:41but also I think I think every investor
- 13:43had the understanding that launching
- 13:44something in 2019 and 2020 was pretty
- 13:46challenging. Yeah, it ended up being a
- 13:48great time to do things slowly, but also
- 13:50great brands are not built on immediate
- 13:52virality, right? And I think what
- 13:54everybody's looking for is a long-term
- 13:55sustainable business that grows over
- 13:57time.
- 13:57>> Was there anything that happened back
- 13:58then that you would do differently in
- 14:00the rollout?
- 14:01>> You know, I'm not a big hindsight's
- 14:0320/20 person. I try not to go back and
- 14:05and re-editorialized things, only
- 14:07because for sure through my I guess my
- 14:0920/26 lens I'm like, "Oh, I wish we did
- 14:12this a little bit different." Or this
- 14:13could have been a little bit better, but
- 14:14honestly at the time I felt such relief
- 14:16when I launched because we worked so
- 14:18long without talking to people about it.
- 14:20I had left this amazing job at this
- 14:22growing company and really been like,
- 14:24"Okay, I'm leaving a rocket ship." And
- 14:26took a big chance to do this, and then I
- 14:27signed my contract and COVID started. So
- 14:29I was kind of going into it a little bit
- 14:31like, "What does this mean for me and my
- 14:32career, and is this going to work, and
- 14:33are people going to connect with it?"
- 14:34The first day was what solidified it for
- 14:37me. I think the immediate response, what
- 14:39it told me right away is that there was
- 14:40product market fit and there was an
- 14:41emotional connection beyond everything
- 14:43else that I could have imagined. In that
- 14:44way, there was some fortuitous timing,
- 14:46absolutely, but I also think it just
- 14:48immediately struck a nerve because it
- 14:49was the right positioning. But I think
- 14:51so much of marketing is iteration and
- 14:53testing that it can be really weird to
- 14:55just launch, right? Cuz day one is like,
- 14:57"There's no iteration. You're just
- 14:58going." It is what you thought of in the
- 15:00background and you're getting the
- 15:01immediate response, but I also think
- 15:03back then people gave new brands a lot
- 15:05more grace than I see now. There was
- 15:06more of an understanding for that, like,
- 15:08you know, all our shipments were late
- 15:09because we did, you know, that was like
- 15:11half the year forecast we did in the
- 15:12first day under direct-to-consumer. So
- 15:14then I'm emailing people being like,
- 15:15"I'm so sorry your shipment's late.
- 15:17We're a brand new brand." Like there was
- 15:18just a high degree of kindness and
- 15:19trust, frankly, even from the audience
- 15:21that I think doesn't necessarily exist
- 15:23to the same extent today because we see
- 15:24so many brands launching all the time
- 15:26that we assume that they're so well
- 15:28capitalized and planned. And And I
- 15:29always joke with the team like, "We're
- 15:31experienced operators." I had great
- 15:33forecasts, but at all of it's fake math
- 15:35before you launch. You can be as
- 15:36experienced as you want and really think
- 15:37you know what's coming, but ultimately
- 15:38you got to roll with the punches. I
- 15:40mean, building business is full of
- 15:41surprises, right? Like, it's No matter
- 15:43how many times you do it, you get the
- 15:44reps in of being surprised, but the
- 15:45surprises never stop.
- 15:46>> I also think back to that time, like
- 15:482019, of when you would have jumped into
- 15:50this. Like, Reels only came to be in
- 15:532019. Like, the landscape was changing
- 15:55as we were moving as well in COVID.
- 15:57Like, it was a crazy time and like, even
- 15:59like, we were still rolling on IGTV.
- 16:01>> Oh, yeah. TikTok, I don't think it
- 16:03launched yet.
- 16:03>> No. Like, we were still rolling on IGTV.
- 16:05Like, it's crazy to think about what the
- 16:06>> Yeah. Like, it's crazy to think about
- 16:07what the literal landscape was back
- 16:09then. So, let's talk about entering a
- 16:11brand new category because you guys do
- 16:12that so, so well, and one of my
- 16:14favorites is the complexion stick, which
- 16:16is kind of a hybrid. It's foundation and
- 16:18a concealer all in one. It's literally a
- 16:20stick, and you just draw on your face
- 16:22like a crayon. Or, you can obviously use
- 16:24a brush and just do whatever you want.
- 16:25I'm obsessed with it. It is my favorite
- 16:27product. I have a lease in both cities
- 16:29at the moment, in Sydney and Melbourne,
- 16:31and my Merit kit in both cities is
- 16:35Like, and I accidentally forgot the I'm
- 16:37not sure what the name of it is, but
- 16:39it's the basically the bronzer stick,
- 16:40that complexion like, contour stick that
- 16:42you guys have. Like, and I don't have
- 16:44one in Sydney right now, and I the panic
- 16:46that I felt, the way that you guys have
- 16:48built that that I didn't know I needed
- 16:50into a routine is the most insane thing.
- 16:54So, talk to me about how you firstly
- 16:55approach a category when it's brand new.
- 16:57Like, "How do we tell people to draw on
- 16:59their faces now?"
- 17:00>> I mean, I think so much of the story of
- 17:01Merit, if you look at our heroes, is
- 17:03that we reinvent UX. And I think if you
- 17:06look at Look outside of beauty, if you
- 17:08look at at successful businesses,
- 17:09they're usually not creating something
- 17:11totally net new unless you're in tech.
- 17:13It's usually a UX change, right? It
- 17:14makes something easier and more
- 17:15intuitive. I think beauty in many ways
- 17:18had gotten incredibly complicated and
- 17:20non-intuitive. Like everything required
- 17:22a video. I don't know if you remember
- 17:23when um products had QR codes on the
- 17:25boxes so you could understand how to use
- 17:27them without watching a tutorial. So to
- 17:29us it's always been much more by making
- 17:30something domed for instance, it's very
- 17:32clear you apply it directly to the face.
- 17:34It's why bronze bomb, dayglow, flush
- 17:36balm, the minimalist all have curves cuz
- 17:38then you intuitively feel that. By
- 17:39making something in a stick format,
- 17:41first of all, it means that you can
- 17:42easily pick it up and use it directly on
- 17:43the skin. So you're not doing like a
- 17:45putting liquid foundation down the back
- 17:46of the hand using a brush. So it's
- 17:48really tightening up that UX. But more
- 17:50than that, I don't think it was ever
- 17:51really clear at the time, especially
- 17:53back then when I was working at the
- 17:54beauty counter what the difference
- 17:55between foundation and concealer was.
- 17:56Back then it was like, "Okay, concealer
- 17:58has more pigment than foundation."
- 18:00Right? I mean now today you see a
- 18:01million different formats, but there
- 18:02wasn't that much of a difference and we
- 18:04weren't doing the thing where we use a
- 18:05lighter concealer and then we use
- 18:07underpainting and put foundation over
- 18:09top. That didn't exist. So I think in
- 18:10many ways combining the two into one
- 18:12gesture made sense for our client,
- 18:13right? Like these really using one
- 18:15complexion product in the morning is
- 18:16what we're seeing most of the time. So
- 18:18it made sense to combine them. I think
- 18:20that switching UX sounds like it would
- 18:22be something that takes coaching. Like
- 18:23to your point, putting it in a stick
- 18:25isn't this so different? Don't you have
- 18:26to teach the client? But I always find
- 18:28the most interesting thing that I see is
- 18:30people tag us in stories. I always watch
- 18:31them. And if you watch people's kids,
- 18:34they'll pick up flush balm and do this.
- 18:35Like 2-year-olds, 3-year-olds. You can
- 18:37see them playing and they pick it up
- 18:38because they know intuitively to put it
- 18:40on the cheek. So there's a really
- 18:41interesting almost mind brain reaction
- 18:45to product that has the proper UX. So we
- 18:47didn't have to teach that that's how you
- 18:48use the minimalist. People just
- 18:49instantly understood how to use it. I
- 18:52think too, we formulated around
- 18:54concerns. So the way we build product is
- 18:56by solving a problem. For us it was it
- 18:58needed to be easy apply, easy to apply.
- 19:00It needed to be non-acne triggering. It
- 19:02couldn't be drying, couldn't be cakey,
- 19:04needed to look like skin. So once you
- 19:05solve all of those problems, it's a lot
- 19:07easier to market it. I think the
- 19:08bifurcation of product marketing is
- 19:09really interesting. Marketing used to
- 19:11own product in most organizations,
- 19:13right? Used to be like product creative,
- 19:15even you know, what store is it sold at.
- 19:17It used to be under marketing. That's
- 19:18actually quite bifurcated now. So,
- 19:20you'll see like a chief creative officer
- 19:22sitting beside a chief marketing officer
- 19:24sitting beside a chief product officer.
- 19:25What that does though is there's
- 19:27inconsistency in the total story. So,
- 19:29our marketing is very intuitive because
- 19:30once we solve the problem with the
- 19:31product, I already know what the
- 19:33campaign's going to be because I started
- 19:34with the problem. Whereas in a lot of
- 19:36companies you have I'm starting with the
- 19:38product and now come up with the
- 19:40campaign for why people should want it.
- 19:41It's a very different way of working by
- 19:43having it all in one cycle.
- 19:45>> So, when you are looking at UX like
- 19:47that, how involved are you personally in
- 19:49that process? Cuz I from what I've heard
- 19:51on the webinars and stuff with like you
- 19:53talking about it, you're incredibly
- 19:55entrenched in all of this.
- 19:56>> Totally. I So, first of all, ideas come
- 19:58from everywhere in our team. You know,
- 19:59the funniest thing about doing press on
- 20:01behalf of a brand is you only see me
- 20:02talking, but it is many, many people
- 20:04involved. Certain things have been my
- 20:05ideas, many things have come from other
- 20:07team members. So, it's very much how do
- 20:09you teach people to think of the brand
- 20:11so that other people also have amazing
- 20:13ideas and you can get inspired by them.
- 20:14Some of it is super intuitive. Bronzer,
- 20:17for instance, bronze bomb, that shape
- 20:19was inspired by a deodorant in my
- 20:20bathroom because I always had a problem
- 20:22with bronzer being way too big. I could
- 20:24never get proper contouring and then my
- 20:25whole face just was a darker shade
- 20:27instead of feeling like I got that kind
- 20:28of three shape around the side of my
- 20:30face. So, it's actually if you look at
- 20:31the mechanism, it looks like a Dove
- 20:33deodorant stick because that's what was
- 20:35on my bathroom counter. So, you can see
- 20:36a little bit of that.
- 20:37>> Okay.
- 20:38>> What's so fun, I think and different
- 20:40about beauty is that our team is really
- 20:41representative of the client, right?
- 20:43It's a bunch of women in their late 20s,
- 20:4530s, 40s, 50s, that sit together and go,
- 20:47"How do we solve problems that we have?"
- 20:49And I think what's so powerful is often
- 20:52the things that we are struggling with
- 20:53internally are the things that connect
- 20:54most in marketing. So, for example, when
- 20:56we were working on a great skin serum
- 20:58campaign this March, we were kind of all
- 20:59pulling apart our feelings on aging,
- 21:01which are complicated, right? We work in
- 21:03beauty. So, we see all all time the
- 21:05procedures people are getting done, the
- 21:07claims products make, what is and isn't
- 21:10possible. And I think it's you feel such
- 21:12a level of responsibility when you are
- 21:13the client to talk to yourself in also a
- 21:15kind way. So, one of the posts that did
- 21:17the best for us in Q1 was us saying like
- 21:19talking to editors and talking to other
- 21:20people involved and in the caption
- 21:22literally saying like aging's really
- 21:23complicated for us and it's complicated
- 21:25for everybody we know. Here's what we
- 21:27know skin care can actually do. It's not
- 21:29like a global anti-aging claim, it's
- 21:30like here's what it does for redness.
- 21:32Here's what it does for laxity. But it's
- 21:34specific because we understand that
- 21:35making promises you can't keep affects
- 21:37the brand. So, I think so much of
- 21:39building resonance is having the
- 21:41internal resonance, right? And like
- 21:43listening to each other as you're
- 21:44brainstorming and having the client be
- 21:46the creator is very important.
- 21:49>> Yeah, totally. So, the literal like for
- 21:51context of for the listener, the
- 21:53complexion stick is a crayon that you
- 21:55feel like you could just draw on your
- 21:57face. How does the team work to have
- 21:59those conversations of like you begin
- 22:01it, you're like, "Okay, so we have we
- 22:03want to do a complexion something or
- 22:05other. How do we do that the Merit way?
- 22:07Is there like months of testing and then
- 22:10someone's like, "Aha, a crayon." Like
- 22:11how does it literally work?
- 22:13>> Yeah, yeah. The biggest thing and like
- 22:14my greatest belief is I think the
- 22:17fundamental problem with beauty is that
- 22:18everybody's looking at market reports.
- 22:20Okay. So, if you think of how big brands
- 22:22are built, they have a consumer insights
- 22:23team. And that team looks at reports of
- 22:26where is the volume, what's growing,
- 22:27what's not growing at this retailer and
- 22:29uh what do I understand from the sales
- 22:31and what are the categories that seem
- 22:32like they're scaling quickly. All that
- 22:34tells you is what people are already
- 22:35doing, which is not that helpful, but
- 22:37it's also why you'll see brands all of a
- 22:39sudden all launch the same thing cuz
- 22:40they're all looking at the same market
- 22:41report. Yeah. So, for us so much of it
- 22:43is everybody's looking out, we're very
- 22:44much looking in. So, I'm always telling
- 22:46the team like I don't care what other
- 22:47brands are doing. I really don't. I
- 22:49don't care to serve what a market report
- 22:51says, I care very deeply on what the
- 22:53consumer says. So, we are looking down
- 22:55at data. So, all the time we're reading
- 22:56Instagram comments, we're reading DMs,
- 22:58we're reading emails. Every Every
- 23:00someone returns something, we get a
- 23:02reason for why and it's all logged. So,
- 23:04for example, like when we do shade
- 23:06extensions for the minimalist, we
- 23:08started at 20, we're now up to 30 and
- 23:10we're working on another extension.
- 23:11Every time, that's not guessing or
- 23:13looking at what other brands are doing,
- 23:14it's all the feedback that I couldn't
- 23:15find my shade. And then we email them
- 23:17back and say, "Okay, what shade are you
- 23:18wearing? What works for you?" And then
- 23:20we log it. So, we end up with massive
- 23:22amounts of data cuz we have a large
- 23:23direct-to-consumer business on where the
- 23:25gaps, where are people not finding what
- 23:26they want, what's not working, what's
- 23:28the main feedback or complaint. And then
- 23:29beyond that, we ask people what else
- 23:31they want to see. We're constantly
- 23:32running focus groups, sending emails,
- 23:34doing Instagram surveys, all different
- 23:35formats to be like, "What's the product
- 23:37you want to see next?" How we develop
- 23:38the product itself is actually much less
- 23:40form-based, it's problem-based. So, if I
- 23:43think of, let's talk about clean volume,
- 23:45right? So, that that one's coming out.
- 23:46That started from very simple premises,
- 23:48which were as I've been aging, this part
- 23:50of my lid is dropping, my upper lid. So,
- 23:52every time I put on mascara, it's
- 23:54hitting this. If it's not waterproof or
- 23:57tubing, it's smudging here. That didn't
- 23:59happen in my 20s. So, we started talking
- 24:01about mascara, going over like, "What
- 24:02are your problems with mascara? What are
- 24:04you running into?" And I was like,
- 24:04"Okay, well, I get the smudging here. I
- 24:07don't any volumizing mascara which is
- 24:08making my lashes point down straight
- 24:11instead of looking more open and awake.
- 24:13And I think especially as, you know, you
- 24:14hit your 30s and I'm sure into your 40s
- 24:15and 50s, you want to look more awake."
- 24:17So, we really started with a list of
- 24:19like, "What are all the things that
- 24:20mascaras are not doing for us?" And then
- 24:22we started talking to labs. So, having
- 24:24conversations like, "Why do you use a
- 24:26really big brush for volumizing
- 24:27mascara?" which was one of the funniest
- 24:29conversations that we were having cuz
- 24:30everyone's like, "Well, then people
- 24:31think it's volumizing." And we were
- 24:32like, "So?"
- 24:34From a technique perspective, it's not
- 24:35actually really not important at all.
- 24:37And then we start testing a million
- 24:38different things. So, we were very clear
- 24:39it needed to be tubing. Our first
- 24:40mascara was also tubing, which is what
- 24:42we knew people liked about it. And then
- 24:43we'll take that those sentiments and
- 24:45we'll put together a brief with our
- 24:46product development team. So, we all sit
- 24:48down and kind of go like, "What does it
- 24:49need to do? What are the problems it
- 24:50needs to solve? How is it different?"
- 24:52That gets briefed out. We get benches
- 24:53back. And then from there, we try a
- 24:55million different products until we find
- 24:57something that's slightly interesting.
- 24:58Sometimes that takes years, by the way.
- 25:00Like And this is also why it's
- 25:02non-linear. Sometimes the technology
- 25:04doesn't exist. Sometimes we just can't
- 25:05find the right vendor. I mean, in the
- 25:06case of Clean Volume, it's a Japanese
- 25:09tubing formula. The majority of mascaras
- 25:11are from Italy. It's very uncommon. It
- 25:13just took us time to find the vendor
- 25:15that we could work with that would make
- 25:16it in the way that we wanted to, that
- 25:18would give the look that we wanted and
- 25:19solve the problem. So, everything takes
- 25:21so much longer than you'd think. And for
- 25:23us, it's like I don't approve the
- 25:25product until we've solved the problem.
- 25:26That's fundamentally the gap, right? So,
- 25:28I it to me, you often hear about brands,
- 25:30you'll start a work back schedule,
- 25:32right? For a simple product, it's 18
- 25:33months. For a complex product, it can be
- 25:35up to 36.
- 25:36We have a work back, but a work back
- 25:38tends to restrict the number of rounds,
- 25:39and I just don't believe in that because
- 25:41I don't believe necessarily that you
- 25:42land the plane in three rounds. There's
- 25:44some products where we land it in three
- 25:45rounds. There's some, Clean Volume, I
- 25:47don't even know how many hundred. Until
- 25:49it is done, it's not done. Is very much
- 25:51my belief. And the other thing I think
- 25:52that people get wrong is that they
- 25:54launch products for a launch. We launch
- 25:56products for 10 years of core
- 25:57performance. That is what we're looking
- 25:58at. The products that we launched in
- 25:592021 are growing year over year still.
- 26:02That is a hugely different way of
- 26:03looking at building a business than what
- 26:05most brands are doing. I don't really
- 26:06care about day one. I don't even really
- 26:08care that much about year one. I care
- 26:10about can I grow this 5 years from now?
- 26:11>> Do you as a woman, this is not in the
- 26:13question, so feel free to push back on
- 26:15this. Do you as a woman find it hard to
- 26:18be like, "And we're going again."
- 26:20because of the values that you have
- 26:22there rather than people being like,
- 26:23"Oh, I like got it again. God, can we
- 26:25not just like get this approved? Cuz I
- 26:27know that
- 26:28>> Yeah.
- 26:28>> my own experience with product
- 26:30development and even friends that have
- 26:31had to do it, they've got other kind of
- 26:33project management people around them
- 26:35that poo-poo attitude of, "No, no.
- 26:39>> Yeah.
- 26:39>> It's [snorts] not perfect yet."
- 26:41>> My job is really interesting, right?
- 26:42Because I'm also in charge of of scaling
- 26:44the P&L. I am at the end of the day
- 26:46responsible for revenue. It's a balance
- 26:48because on one hand I'm in charge of
- 26:49delivering great product, but I'm also
- 26:50in charge of hitting the KPIs for the
- 26:52year. So, if I'm saying no to a product,
- 26:54it's because I'm making the revenue
- 26:55trade-off, and ultimately I'm going to
- 26:56find another way to deliver it. So, in
- 26:58that way there's less of that because
- 27:00I'm responsible on both sides. Usually
- 27:01you see kind of left brain or right
- 27:03brain. For me, I sit across both, which
- 27:04is different. But, also I work with a
- 27:06group of people that love to be
- 27:07excellent. I think that so much of of
- 27:09building a great brand is obviously your
- 27:10team and and who you surround yourself
- 27:12with, and I've been the best part of
- 27:13doing it, honestly. I'm so lucky to get
- 27:16to work with our teams. It's not usually
- 27:17just me saying it's not perfect yet.
- 27:19Right? Cuz it's also not a as much as
- 27:21this it's a single tea sign-off. It's
- 27:22not like I'm sitting in a room looking
- 27:24at it alone, right? I We're always panel
- 27:26testing. I'm asking other people's
- 27:27opinions. We're sending it to customers.
- 27:29Like, you're always getting a ton of
- 27:31viewpoints cuz I believe so much that
- 27:32the strength of a brand is not by having
- 27:34one lens, but by having as many lived
- 27:36experiences as you can. But, what's
- 27:38interesting is almost everybody kind of
- 27:39knows when it's done, when it's really
- 27:41good. If we don't have that, then I have
- 27:43no problem making a hard decision. Cuz
- 27:45again, yeah, revenue's my KPI, but the
- 27:47long-term strength and building of the
- 27:48brand and business is also my focus.
- 27:50>> Is there opportunity in Merit products
- 27:52to kind of go out with one thing and
- 27:54then be like, "Ah, we'll tweak it."
- 27:56Like, in the next kind of run of
- 27:58product?
- 27:59>> I try not to have that feeling right
- 28:01when we launch it. The problem is we
- 28:02usually finish products a year to 6
- 28:05months prior to launch, right? There
- 28:06will be times where we're launching
- 28:07something and I already have changes.
- 28:09>> Yeah, okay.
- 28:10>> For sure. And we have Kaizen.
- 28:11Absolutely. I mean, you look at the
- 28:12Minimalist we, you know, we launched it
- 28:14in 2021 and a year and a half later we
- 28:16relaunched it at twice the fill weight,
- 28:17and we fixed the engineering on the
- 28:18inside at the same price. So, we
- 28:21absolutely are not scared to go back and
- 28:22make things better, which I think is a
- 28:24huge part of building with the consumer.
- 28:26Um, we did the same thing on Brown 1980.
- 28:28It was really funny. We had the handle
- 28:30longer than the base that had the
- 28:31product in it so that it would be easier
- 28:32to leverage. But, what happened is it
- 28:34made people feel like they were being
- 28:35ripped off because the part with the
- 28:37formula was smaller than the handle. All
- 28:39we did was make it even on both sides in
- 28:41a new component and increase the fill
- 28:43weight, and sales went up more than
- 28:44100%. Wow. That was all we changed. So,
- 28:46I I do think so much of it is you try
- 28:48your very best to get things right. That
- 28:50doesn't mean it's always perfect, right?
- 28:52Because again, you can't have every
- 28:53single opinion when you first land the
- 28:55plane. And I believe very deeply in
- 28:57taking the feedback that people give and
- 28:59updating and redoing. So, we've done it
- 29:01three or four times I think down in our
- 29:02history. We will continue to do it.
- 29:04Especially with an edited collection,
- 29:05you have to be willing to go back and
- 29:07kind of adjust and redo because
- 29:09we're not going to launch Infinity
- 29:10products, which means the products need
- 29:11to be really good. And technology is
- 29:13always changing. So, sometimes new
- 29:15things come out so we can make a product
- 29:16better and then we do that. To me, it's
- 29:18just you put out the best product you
- 29:19can at the time. You take the feedback,
- 29:21you continue to improve. That's how you
- 29:22build trust, right? Is is listening.
- 29:24>> Yeah, absolutely. So, talk to me then
- 29:26about some of the decisions that you
- 29:28made with Clean Volume and creatively
- 29:31because there's both assets that are
- 29:34the wand of the brush and then there's
- 29:37assets Are there assets of it on
- 29:39somebody's eye?
- 29:41>> Yeah.
- 29:42>> All of that. And how do you kind of
- 29:43decide all of that? Is there like a
- 29:45merit spreadsheet that's like we need
- 29:48e-com, we need campaign of it in situ
- 29:50with like a beauty still kind of still
- 29:52life, we need it on a person, and then
- 29:54we need it obviously with shades and
- 29:55stuff like that. You can go how long is
- 29:57a piece of string, but is there kind of
- 29:58like an internal way that you guys think
- 30:01about content when you launch?
- 30:02>> So, we change it almost every time.
- 30:04There are always going to be standard
- 30:06things like you need an e-commerce hero
- 30:08shot or you need a swipe of product.
- 30:10Sure. The same thing doesn't work for
- 30:12the same products, right? Also, we don't
- 30:13launch newness that often like it's been
- 30:1510 months since we launched a net new
- 30:16product. That's a long time in beauty,
- 30:18right? The last new product we launched
- 30:20was cleanser, which was last August.
- 30:22>> Yeah.
- 30:23>> So, it's been a long time. And skin care
- 30:24is different than fragrance is different
- 30:26than makeup. And mascara is very
- 30:27different than complexion is different
- 30:28than lip.
- 30:29>> Mhm.
- 30:29>> Because lip is a product that is much
- 30:31more you want to see it on skin tones,
- 30:32it's emotional, you want to have it
- 30:34described the texture. Eye is actually
- 30:37very like before and after. You want to
- 30:39see what it looks like so you can decide
- 30:40if you want that effect or look if
- 30:41that's what you're looking for. It's
- 30:43much more proof point focused, so I
- 30:44think with this one in particular, as we
- 30:46talk about the medium and the message,
- 30:48this gets really important because what
- 30:50are you trying to show people on eye?
- 30:51For us, we're trying to show that it
- 30:53lengthens, it lifts, has great volume,
- 30:54and it works on all eye types, which
- 30:56most mascaras don't. So, then that means
- 30:58that we need to show people on all eye
- 31:00types that that's what happens, and then
- 31:01it wears all day, which means you need
- 31:03people to try it. So, I think as of
- 31:05today we've had 50,000 people sample it.
- 31:07You can have the nuts and bolts on like
- 31:08what is needed, but ultimately it's as a
- 31:11consumer, what do I need to know? And I
- 31:13think we forget so often like you get so
- 31:15close to things that you forget like if
- 31:17I'm a new person looking at this brand,
- 31:19what do I need to know about this
- 31:20product to make me feel like I will or
- 31:21will not like it. Mhm. Part of that by
- 31:23the way is honesty. Part of that is
- 31:24telling people what they won't like
- 31:26because you don't want people who aren't
- 31:27going to like it to buy it. Again, I I
- 31:29think that's where like being both the
- 31:30client and the creator becomes so
- 31:32important because you actually
- 31:33understand the concerns and and what you
- 31:35need to see to believe, too.
- 31:37>> How involved are you in the literal
- 31:39content scope of a rollout plan when you
- 31:42launch a product?
- 31:44>> Very involved.
- 31:44>> Like in like the social media calendar,
- 31:47are you like great, so we have this
- 31:48campaign imagery and then we follow up
- 31:51with proof points and then we're doing
- 31:53some like it's on everyone's different
- 31:55type of eye. Like how are you navigating
- 31:58that because if you think about the
- 31:59literal trenches of a listener's
- 32:02day-to-day and they for example are
- 32:04either at the desk having to launch a
- 32:05new product soon for their
- 32:08team or they're trying to launch a new
- 32:10product themselves. I think I'd love to
- 32:12hear how you think about that because
- 32:14it's something so literal as well.
- 32:17>> I think so much of being in an
- 32:19organization like this, I have a very
- 32:20big team now, but I am very clear on
- 32:22what my value is.
- 32:24And for me it is storytelling. It's
- 32:27uniting everything together. It's making
- 32:28it one cohesive thought. I think when
- 32:31you have a lot of people working on
- 32:31different things, it's easy for them to
- 32:33get disconnected. And I often have a
- 32:35very clear vision in my mind of both
- 32:37what does this look like and how does it
- 32:38move into market. That being said, I
- 32:39have a lot of team members that I've
- 32:40worked with for a long time. So, if we
- 32:41talk about social specifically,
- 32:43everything is led off of social. So,
- 32:45we're not looking at like what campaign
- 32:47images do we put into social before we
- 32:49shoot a campaign. We're talking about
- 32:50social and email follows social. So,
- 32:52everything comes from there. And
- 32:53actually, we don't even really start in
- 32:54a grid anymore. We start with what is
- 32:55the story we're telling and then we
- 32:57literally bullet point it. And I'm in
- 32:58those meetings of like, "Okay, we need
- 33:00to [snorts] explain what tubing is. We
- 33:01need to show how this wears in steam or
- 33:04in humidity. We need to show this on
- 33:06different eye types. We need to show
- 33:07video application." Like it is a long
- 33:09list. Then what everybody does is they
- 33:10go back to their corners and all pull
- 33:12like hundreds of references of ways of
- 33:14doing things. None of them are in
- 33:15beauty. It's always like, "Here's an
- 33:16IKEA commercial from 1994 that I think
- 33:18is such an interesting way of showing
- 33:20this." And then we sit down and we go
- 33:21through all of them and we go, "Okay,
- 33:22what are all the different ways we tell
- 33:23this story?" And we match every story
- 33:25point we want to make to the type of
- 33:26content. So, we're going to make this a
- 33:28text post or we're going to work with a
- 33:29creator on this or,
- 33:31you know, whatever it may be. And I'm
- 33:32involved in all of that. That story is
- 33:34then goes into go to market and the
- 33:35brand and creative teams present the art
- 33:38direction boards, the claims boards, the
- 33:40social and storytelling to the overall
- 33:43marketing team. Marketing team then
- 33:44comes back and pitches back channel
- 33:46plans. So, based on what I learned for
- 33:48paid marketing, we're going to focus on
- 33:50these assets that you're making and I'm
- 33:51also going to brief out these 25 things.
- 33:53Email's going to say we're picking up
- 33:55these stories, but we also need these
- 33:56incremental stories that you don't have.
- 33:58It It's very much a collaborative
- 33:59process and I think for me, I trust my
- 34:01team to be the subject matter experts,
- 34:03but the thing that I'm very, very deeply
- 34:04involved in is the exact details of the
- 34:06stories before they go into the
- 34:07channels. And then as it all starts to
- 34:09come together, I look at everything
- 34:10together on Figma. Every email, every
- 34:12social post, every facet of the story is
- 34:14looked at so that you make sure it's
- 34:15consistent. Cuz what you'll often see in
- 34:17big brands, I don't know if you notice
- 34:18this, is like you'll see on social
- 34:20something is totally different than what
- 34:20influencers are talking about, which is
- 34:22so disconnected from email, which
- 34:23doesn't look the same on site. To me,
- 34:25consistency is so much of it and
- 34:27especially in beauty, language is a lot.
- 34:29Language is everything because the way
- 34:31we talk is so important because we talk
- 34:33to our client like she is smart, because
- 34:35she is, but also like she doesn't have
- 34:36time, because she doesn't. There's no
- 34:38like fluffy fake language of like, you
- 34:40know when you read a product title and
- 34:41you have no idea what it is? There's
- 34:42none of that. That becomes really
- 34:43important, and then everything from
- 34:45shade names,
- 34:46the naming products, like all of that
- 34:48has to be in the same muscle. I'm really
- 34:50fortunate that I get to work with a
- 34:52group of people that kind of we kind of
- 34:54share a collective brain at this point,
- 34:56cuz we've been working together for so
- 34:58long. We're like, it's a way of working
- 34:59that I think we're all very used to, but
- 35:00is very untraditional.
- 35:02>> Talk to me about content, specifically
- 35:06the one with Whitney Leavitt on the
- 35:08trampoline.
- 35:09Let's [laughter] unpack that, because
- 35:12that is a feeling. A woman jumping on a
- 35:13trampoline is 100% feeling-led, which
- 35:16ties back to literally everything that
- 35:18you're talking about. Where do you start
- 35:20with that?
- 35:20>> Actually, that campaign was Whitney
- 35:22Leavitt and Karen Pittman, and those
- 35:24came from my TV obsession. I love
- 35:26reality TV.
- 35:27At the end of the day, like I don't want
- 35:29to watch a smart thriller, usually. I
- 35:31love Real Housewives. I loved Secret
- 35:34Lives of Mormon Wives. I thought it was
- 35:35fascinating. I had watched all the
- 35:37seasons prior with Whitney, and I
- 35:38thought it was so interesting that so
- 35:40much of the vilification of Whitney in
- 35:42the early seasons was based on her
- 35:44advocating for boundaries and making
- 35:46decisions for herself, which I thought
- 35:47was fascinating.
- 35:49>> Mhm.
- 35:49>> And I think so much of her story that I
- 35:51was watching was of someone stepping
- 35:53into their power in a really interesting
- 35:55way. I mean, today, like we made that
- 35:58casting call mid-year last year. So,
- 36:00long before the announcement of Broadway
- 36:02or or even the change in her story arc.
- 36:05But, I had the sense that she had this
- 36:06really compelling story and had find a
- 36:08way found a way to find joy in a very
- 36:10unapologetic way. So, on that season,
- 36:13she talks about, you know, her castmates
- 36:15accuse her of only coming back on the
- 36:16show to go on Dancing with the Stars,
- 36:17cuz she wants a career, and she goes,
- 36:19"Yeah, exactly. I want a career."
- 36:22And I just thought that was
- 36:24so refreshing, so powerful to see
- 36:26someone that was like so unapologetic
- 36:27with what they want and going to get it.
- 36:29And then Karen was more of her fictional
- 36:31character story arc in The Morning Show,
- 36:33where I thought it was so interesting
- 36:34that you watch Maya be passed over for
- 36:36promotions repeatedly. And on the day of
- 36:39her promotion, she doesn't have the
- 36:40co-workers that she's been supporting
- 36:41for all these years show up and advocate
- 36:43for her. And then you see this shift in
- 36:45her character as she starts asserting
- 36:46boundaries, but also changing her hair
- 36:48and makeup. And this is one of those
- 36:49really subtle things about hair and
- 36:50makeup that I think is so interesting is
- 36:52that it's armor, right? It's how we
- 36:53express ourselves. It's a choice and how
- 36:55we want people to perceive us. And she
- 36:57started changing her hair, changing her
- 36:59makeup, changing her wardrobe in a way
- 37:00that was very clear that
- 37:02it was no longer conforming to the
- 37:03expectation of what she was supposed to
- 37:04be because she wasn't going to win at
- 37:06that anyway. But again, it was a story
- 37:07of stepping into power. So the casting
- 37:09for that, and then when I read about
- 37:10Karen Pittman, by the way, she was like
- 37:11in VC and finance prior to going into
- 37:14acting, incredibly accomplished, just
- 37:17phenomenal background. That's where the
- 37:18casting came from. It was this idea of I
- 37:20mean, lip is a lip. It's not a product
- 37:21you need to understand a ton of context
- 37:23on. But to us it was lip is joy. Like I
- 37:25put on lip balm because I'm like I'm not
- 37:27like what am I fixing? I'm like, "Ooh,
- 37:28I'm in the mood for this color. I'm in
- 37:29the mood for that." Or like it's a nice
- 37:30little like pick me up. Something you
- 37:32toss in your purse, you usually have a
- 37:33few.
- 37:34It's an accessible price point. So how
- 37:37do you tell a story of joy? Ultimately,
- 37:38a lot of our casting comes from that.
- 37:39Who are women that are telling
- 37:40interesting and compelling stories and
- 37:42trampoline was just
- 37:44She was working on She was on Dancing
- 37:45with the Stars at the time. Again, she
- 37:46was phenomenal. I mean, it's
- 37:48talk about the fact that she was the
- 37:49best dancer and didn't win right at the
- 37:50end, which is just the same arc that she
- 37:52experienced.
- 37:53Um anyway, it was
- 37:55He just looks so happy in movement that
- 37:56one of the ideas was let's bring on a
- 37:58trampoline and just film her moving. And
- 37:59how do you capture that? And with Karen,
- 38:01Karen's filmed eating popcorn. And we
- 38:03said to her like, "What do you love to
- 38:04do to decompress?" And she was like,
- 38:05"Oh, I'm obsessed with this certain
- 38:06brand of popcorn." So we brought that
- 38:08popcorn on to set and filmed her eating
- 38:10the popcorn.
- 38:10>> Right. Okay. Do you ever put pressure on
- 38:12yourself like that to be like, "Oh, I
- 38:14hope this lands." Cuz you say it with so
- 38:15much confidence, but that's not
- 38:17necessarily how the industry does it.
- 38:19Obviously, like selling a lip, having
- 38:21somebody that's on Dancing with the
- 38:22Stars jumping on a trampoline. Like
- 38:23they're not adjacent necessarily, but
- 38:26they are so adjacent when you break it
- 38:27down. Do you ever have self-doubt in
- 38:29that moment around like, "Oh god, I hope
- 38:31this works."?
- 38:32>> I mean, my team will tell you I'm famous
- 38:33for a week before a campaign goes live
- 38:35being like, "Uh, I don't think anyone's
- 38:36going to like it."
- 38:37>> [laughter]
- 38:37>> Okay, good. We needed to hear that.
- 38:40At the moment, the way that you explain
- 38:41these things is like you're a full
- 38:43marketing merit superhero, and we need
- 38:45to hear the real like, "Oh god. Oh god."
- 38:49>> [laughter]
- 38:49>> You know, but I think so much of it like
- 38:52first of all, we have things that don't
- 38:53hit all the time, right? Like you only
- 38:54remember the things by brands that hit.
- 38:57Of 10 things you put up, probably two
- 38:58hit. So like that's the theory of the
- 39:01game, and I think so much of it is about
- 39:03understanding that a lot of it's out of
- 39:04your hands, right? Like
- 39:06Whitney's campaign went live the same
- 39:07day she started her Broadway run. Did I
- 39:10know that when we shot her all those
- 39:11months prior? No. That was luck. So,
- 39:13there's so much that's out of your
- 39:14control, especially in the cultural
- 39:16cycle of like who will be relevant when.
- 39:18I do think so as leaders, our job is to
- 39:20understand what our value is. And if I
- 39:23am always questioning and unsure and
- 39:25refusing to take up space, it takes away
- 39:28permission for everybody else to do the
- 39:29same. I think there's this interview
- 39:31with Martha Stewart I saw where someone
- 39:32was like, "Do you have imposter
- 39:33syndrome?" And she was like, "No." And
- 39:34it's something that for my whole career
- 39:35I felt like I had to say because you
- 39:37feel like how is it possible that I have
- 39:39this job or I get to do this work? Like
- 39:40I feel so unqualified. But I think when
- 39:43we as leaders don't take up space, then
- 39:45you make it uncomfortable for everybody
- 39:46else because it also means you're not
- 39:47taking the responsibility. So just like
- 39:49I said I'm confident that it might hit,
- 39:51I it when things don't hit, I take that
- 39:53in stride, too. There's no high high for
- 39:55me and there's no low low. It's all like
- 39:56this.
- 39:57So as much as it looks like it's a
- 39:59string of wins,
- 40:00so much of a figuring out work as a
- 40:03marketer is to not associate your worth
- 40:05with whether or not it goes viral. But
- 40:06beyond that, I think I'm very clear that
- 40:08my work is for consumption, but I as a
- 40:11person am not.
- 40:12So I also have very clear boundaries
- 40:14around my personal life and and what I
- 40:16will attribute KPIs to, because I think
- 40:18you have to be so careful to not allow
- 40:20your sense of self or your emotions to
- 40:22ride on whether or not something works.
- 40:24Cuz think of how many piece of content
- 40:26we create a year, right? Most of them
- 40:27are not going to work.
- 40:28>> Yeah, that's so true. I want to do a
- 40:31show and tell moment around the dusty
- 40:33pear. You guys have an Instagram post
- 40:36about a scent that says it's like being
- 40:38hit in the face with a dusty unright
- 40:40pear.
- 40:42What?
- 40:43>> [laughter]
- 40:44>> So, here's the thing about Retrospect.
- 40:45It's polarizing. All good fragrances are
- 40:47polarizing, by the way. We moved into
- 40:49this weird time where everything is like
- 40:51designed for the widest possible common
- 40:53denominator. So, everything's like
- 40:55vanilla with some kind of fruit that
- 40:56everybody likes.
- 40:57>> Yeah.
- 40:57>> That's not interesting. So, when we made
- 40:59Retrospect, we knew that people would
- 41:00love it or would they would hate it, and
- 41:02to me that's a sign of success. Because
- 41:03in fragrance, you don't actually wear
- 41:05the ones you're so-so towards. You wear
- 41:07the one you love. So, it has to be
- 41:09something that certain people are
- 41:10obsessed with. That being said, one of
- 41:11my favorite places on the entire
- 41:12internet is Fragrantica, which is where
- 41:15that quote comes from. Because
- 41:16Fragrantica is full of people who write
- 41:18reviews in the most thoughtful, graphic
- 41:20way, right? And some of them are so
- 41:22rude. Some of them are so glowing. And I
- 41:25think so much of brand honesty is
- 41:27sharing both. So, that post is sharing
- 41:30some of the ones that like one says it
- 41:31smells like their grandma's couch. One
- 41:32says it smells amazing. Like, that's the
- 41:34spectrum of perception on scents. So,
- 41:36why not show that? I think so much of
- 41:37building an authentic brand is being
- 41:39honest. And also having a sense of
- 41:40humor. Like, you can't think you get
- 41:41everything right for everybody all the
- 41:42time, right? Makeup is very subjective.
- 41:44We make product all the time that I have
- 41:45friends that are like, "It's not good."
- 41:47And I have other friends that are like,
- 41:48"Oh my god, this is my everyday
- 41:49essential. I have to use this." And you
- 41:51have to have a sense of humor about the
- 41:52fact that
- 41:53not everybody's going to like
- 41:54everything. I always thought one of the
- 41:55most powerful TV segments is mean tweets
- 41:59when they read them out loud. Like,
- 42:00there's also something so powerful about
- 42:03owning negative feedback
- 42:05>> Mhm.
- 42:05>> and being willing to say it out loud
- 42:06instead of feeling it's something you
- 42:07should be embarrassed of. Because to me,
- 42:09feedback is either we're actioning it
- 42:11because we need to do something about it
- 42:12and it's constructive
- 42:14or it's an opinion and not everybody's
- 42:16going to like everything.
- 42:17>> I love that. Tell me about something
- 42:19that has not worked.
- 42:20>> Oh my god, a million things.
- 42:21>> We have canceled products before that
- 42:23didn't hit our quality expectation that,
- 42:25you know, we tested and we were just
- 42:27like
- 42:28we're not going to feel proud of this.
- 42:29>> Had they already gone out in the market
- 42:31or not yet and you guys pulled it?
- 42:33>> No, we pulled it right before it went to
- 42:34market.
- 42:35>> So did the consumer know it was coming
- 42:36and then it just never showed up or did
- 42:38they not it just kind of left the
- 42:40company?
- 42:40>> Some editors knew it was coming.
- 42:42>> [laughter]
- 42:42>> So I had to explain to some people why
- 42:44something's not coming. Um
- 42:46>> So that's happened. I mean at Mejuri I
- 42:48built this entire functionality on
- 42:49same-day delivery Valentine's Day, but
- 42:51we realized that we never figured out
- 42:52how to market it. So like three people
- 42:54used it. It was a huge dev cost, right?
- 42:57Like didn't work. But I think the thing
- 42:59for me is I'm very comfortable with
- 43:01failing, but we try and fail small. So
- 43:02we test everything a million times. Like
- 43:04on an ad if we have like a concept or a
- 43:06tagline when we're entering a new
- 43:07market, we usually like split test
- 43:09everything on meta ads first.
- 43:10>> I kind of know something's going to hit
- 43:12at least have a sense of it.
- 43:14>> Or we'll test things on social media
- 43:15before we do an out-of-home buy.
- 43:16>> Yeah.
- 43:16>> So it's a lot of like how do I see what
- 43:18the sentiment is and how do I double
- 43:19down on that and how do I learn instead
- 43:20of like how do I come out with something
- 43:22that might be a total miss?
- 43:24The other really undervalued thing is
- 43:26really honest feedback internally. One
- 43:28of the things I'm the most proud of
- 43:29about our culture is it's very kind, but
- 43:31it's very direct. Like if something's
- 43:32not good, someone on the team goes, "No,
- 43:34this doesn't sound good because of XYZ
- 43:36or like you're missing this totally in
- 43:37the positioning or I don't like that the
- 43:39product does that." And that's what
- 43:40makes our products great. So I always
- 43:42say like if it can pass the gauntlet of
- 43:43everybody on our team thinking that it's
- 43:45great and giving feedback and weighing
- 43:46in then I feel pretty good about it, but
- 43:48it's that like if you see something you
- 43:49need to say something. If something's
- 43:50not right, if something's off, if
- 43:51something, you know, isn't hitting like
- 43:53we have those conversations and it's one
- 43:55of the things that I value the most in
- 43:56the team is those can come from
- 43:57anywhere.
- 43:58>> Yeah, true. What is your day-to-day
- 44:01looking like because the way that you
- 44:03shape your role is so
- 44:06entrenched in so many different areas of
- 44:09everything. And when I guess you've got
- 44:11a brand like I I know just from knowing
- 44:13Merit, you guys are building this as a
- 44:15legacy brand. And how to develop that
- 44:18like the world's your oyster. You could
- 44:20be doing so much, but I know that within
- 44:22that you would have to be saying no to
- 44:23so much. So, how do you develop your
- 44:26daily schedule, I guess? And how do you
- 44:28look at what to focus on?
- 44:30>> I mean, the very unglamorous reality is
- 44:32I'm spending usually around 9 to 10
- 44:34hours a day in meetings. A lot of time.
- 44:36So, I um spend so much time talking and
- 44:41connecting things. I work a lot. I think
- 44:43that's always something work-life
- 44:45balance to me is is really funny because
- 44:47work-life balance for me is actually
- 44:48much more social media related. I don't
- 44:50have social media on my phone. I don't
- 44:51look at my phone after work, but I spend
- 44:53a lot of time thinking. So, the joke on
- 44:55the team is I get up really early,
- 44:56usually work out, and I'm working for
- 44:58hours before I come to the office. I'm
- 44:59like processing. I'm like taking a
- 45:01million notes. I'm like organizing
- 45:03things in my brain on like what is the
- 45:04future? And then usually by the time of
- 45:05meetings, I have a pretty clear view of
- 45:06like where we're going. Because I
- 45:08oversee everything from, you know,
- 45:09what's our 5-year strategy to what is
- 45:11product to what channels is the product
- 45:13going into to creative to the actual
- 45:15marketing, there's always something I'm
- 45:16like more zoomed in on than something
- 45:18else. There'll be like a few months I'm
- 45:19like really in one vertical, really
- 45:21focused on like improving one specific
- 45:23thing, and then I'll kind of zoom back
- 45:24out once I feel like that's in the right
- 45:25spot, then I'll be elsewhere. I try and
- 45:27not think that on the day-to-day, but
- 45:29ground more on a more global level. So,
- 45:31we do strategy once a year, we look at
- 45:32the brand once a year, and we do kind of
- 45:34a brand update. We make sure everything
- 45:35feels really aligned. We do orderly look
- 45:37backs to both performance and brand, and
- 45:39we look at what we were proud of and
- 45:40what we aren't proud of, what worked and
- 45:41what didn't work, and we have those
- 45:42conversations openly. And I spend a lot
- 45:44of time in data. So, understanding where
- 45:46should we be investing more, where
- 45:47should we we be investing less. So, the
- 45:49very unglamorous thing is I'm my own
- 45:51assistant because I have to have control
- 45:53over my calendar because it shifts all
- 45:54the time based on the needs of the
- 45:55business. I spend a lot of time thinking
- 45:58about work outside of work. I get all my
- 45:59best ideas on vacation and the weekends.
- 46:01So, the team I'm famous for like if I
- 46:03take a week-long vacation, I send a
- 46:04massive email when I get back with like
- 46:0650,000 ideas. Like that's when I tend to
- 46:08process. But, I think there's often this
- 46:10idea of like there being like balance.
- 46:12And I think when you're building
- 46:13something and you're kind of obsessed
- 46:14with building, there's a way to manage
- 46:16burnout for sure. Like I'm very careful
- 46:18on like sleep and exercise and eating
- 46:19properly and all of those things, but
- 46:21I'm thinking about it all the time.
- 46:22>> What do you think is different about the
- 46:24way that you operate working on a brand
- 46:26that you've got such a big trajectory
- 46:27for? Even when you're making decisions
- 46:29around Like are you familiar with the
- 46:31brand Emma Lewisham, the skincare brand
- 46:33from New Zealand?
- 46:34>> Yes.
- 46:34>> She's so gorgeous and was like, "Emma
- 46:36Lewisham will be here in 100 years." She
- 46:38was saying that it was so freeing when
- 46:40she mentioned that because being able to
- 46:41say that just kind of every decision is
- 46:44like, "Well, of course." or "Absolutely
- 46:46not." Like it just kind of shaped it in
- 46:48a very different way. Is there a way
- 46:50that you specifically like challenge
- 46:53things when you have to say yes or no to
- 46:55I don't know everyday decisions?
- 46:56>> So, I try and always frame it as like,
- 46:59we make brand decisions first. So,
- 47:01there's a lot of like quick hit hit
- 47:02things you can do, right? You can be
- 47:03like, "Oh, we're going to do 50% off on
- 47:05TikTok shop tomorrow to hit our revenue
- 47:06goal."
- 47:07We don't really operate like that. We
- 47:09have very clear guidelines that kind of
- 47:10drive long-term brand equity. Like we
- 47:12don't discount for once a year. Like we
- 47:14have all these rules that help us to
- 47:16keep that in mind. I think I don't think
- 47:18I started with the confidence to be
- 47:19like, "Merit will be here in 100 years."
- 47:21I think I was like, "I really hope this
- 47:22work." I think over time, you know, we
- 47:24we shared the last year we did over 200
- 47:26million in sales. And I think over time
- 47:28it's shifted to a level of
- 47:29responsibility. And I think that's also
- 47:31what I'm saying about imposter syndrome.
- 47:33The feeling at the beginning is proving
- 47:35that the brand can work, right? You're
- 47:36like, "How do I make something of value?
- 47:38How do I make this work?" It's kind of
- 47:40shifted in the last 5 years to really
- 47:41being of in service, too. So, I very
- 47:43much feel that my role today is we've
- 47:46clearly established what the brand is. I
- 47:47have a very clear vision of where this
- 47:48can go. But, it has to be in service to
- 47:51the client that we've already got. And
- 47:52we have to continue to build in a way
- 47:53that feels aligned with the ethos that
- 47:55we've outlined. So, I think so much of
- 47:57what works about Merit is we've been
- 48:00deathly consistent. Which makes every
- 48:02marketer lose their mind, by the way,
- 48:03cuz everybody wants to like redo the
- 48:04brand once a year.
- 48:05>> We kept such a clear North Star in what
- 48:07this is and what this isn't. And that
- 48:08doesn't mean over time it doesn't
- 48:09change, but I think how do you continue
- 48:11to serve the needs of the client is such
- 48:13an active thought in my head at all
- 48:14times. How do we make it better? How do
- 48:16we
- 48:17improve this part of her life? You know,
- 48:18for us like if the mission is to
- 48:19simplify what it takes to get ready. So,
- 48:22that means that every day I'm thinking
- 48:23about how do we make that easier? How do
- 48:24you make that
- 48:25>> stressful? Am I improving that life?
- 48:27Clarity on mission, I think it's
- 48:29incredibly helpful so everybody can
- 48:30align to that, but also I think there's
- 48:32this thing that happens where people are
- 48:33always focusing on new customer
- 48:34acquisition or like the next frontier.
- 48:37And I'm also very focused on new
- 48:38customer acquisition, but I'm also
- 48:40really clear that the existing customers
- 48:41generally are who drive the new ones.
- 48:43Word of mouth and referral is still the
- 48:44number one way of marketing in beauty,
- 48:45right? A great review from friend to
- 48:47friend is going to do a lot more for you
- 48:48than an ad. Again, it comes back to that
- 48:50like listening function and being humble
- 48:51enough to know when you got it wrong and
- 48:53allowing the team to feel great when
- 48:55they got it right, but it's continual
- 48:56iteration.
- 48:58It's a very unglamorous part of it. It's
- 48:59work every single day.
- 49:00>> Yeah, what is something new that you're
- 49:01doing in this new mascara drop that you
- 49:04haven't done before?
- 49:05>> So, because mascara see to believe, like
- 49:07I said, we um
- 49:09yes, we sent to influencers, but also we
- 49:11sent tens of thousands of samples to
- 49:12customers. So, had people just try it so
- 49:15that they could see if they like it
- 49:16before they buy it, which is quite
- 49:18unconventional if you think of beauty
- 49:19marketing. Usually it's other than
- 49:21fragrance, usually it's like buy it and
- 49:22tell us if you like it. So, you give it
- 49:23to someone for free.
- 49:25>> Are they baby versions of it or the real
- 49:27deal?
- 49:27>> Exactly.
- 49:27>> The little
- 49:28>> The little baby ones, but they have the
- 49:29right brush. So, they're the exact same
- 49:31experience, they're just shorter. And we
- 49:33ship those with all orders in the month
- 49:35of June on our website. So, everybody
- 49:37got to try it and give feedback. All of
- 49:38the reviews on sephora.com are from
- 49:40customers. So, it's quite different
- 49:41because, you know, usually people are
- 49:42doing it through influencer platforms or
- 49:44something like that. I think for us,
- 49:45again, leaning into customer has been
- 49:47such a big part of who we are and what
- 49:48we continue to do. And every campaign
- 49:50has like a different medium. So, for
- 49:51example, like a billboard of eyelashes
- 49:53is not interesting to me because I have
- 49:55to see what they look like before. So
- 49:57video is huge for this one cuz like I
- 49:58want to see you apply it so I understand
- 50:00how it works. So we did a lot more
- 50:01seating for this than we would for other
- 50:02launches because I think so much of it
- 50:04is is testimony. And I think for us
- 50:06again like we really take our time
- 50:07between launches. Like 10 months might
- 50:09actually be the longest we've gone
- 50:10without newness.
- 50:11>> Mhm, that is a long time.
- 50:12>> I mean, that's a long time. It just
- 50:14wasn't done yet.
- 50:16It wasn't always the plan that it was
- 50:17going to be 10 months, but it wasn't
- 50:18done yet. I think in that way we have
- 50:20such a higher degree of trust when we do
- 50:21come with newness cuz you'll know that
- 50:23we put the thought in and taken the
- 50:24time.
- 50:24>> So what about the landscape at the
- 50:26moment with like marketing, socials,
- 50:28consumer, all of that? What are you
- 50:30really excited about for I guess the new
- 50:32kind of financial year that we're about
- 50:34to hit and just in general like what you
- 50:36obsessed with?
- 50:37>> I'm obsessed with what is the future of
- 50:39social and influencer for sure.
- 50:40>> Yeah, did you see that um Instagram is
- 50:42going to launch long-form to compete
- 50:44with Netflix?
- 50:44>> Mhm.
- 50:45>> I was like
- 50:47Oh.
- 50:48>> They launch everything to compete with
- 50:49everybody lest we forget. I think the
- 50:51changes in the algorithm have been
- 50:52really interesting the last few months
- 50:53and I think what you're essentially
- 50:55seeing is that the page I mean if you
- 50:57think about how Instagram works nobody
- 50:58posts in feed anymore, right? So if
- 51:00nobody's posting in feed then you don't
- 51:01have content when you go to the feed
- 51:01which means Instagram is now putting
- 51:03suggested content in your feed, but then
- 51:04there's also the explore page which is
- 51:06kind of the same thing. I think also if
- 51:07you look at consumption everybody's
- 51:08moving to reels and the only thing that
- 51:10gets served in the explore page is
- 51:12either things with music or things with
- 51:14reels. So it's becoming this 360 sensory
- 51:16experience instead of stills. I was
- 51:17reading Rachel Carton's newsletter which
- 51:19was such a reflection of what we're
- 51:20seeing in social which is like stills
- 51:22that used to drive all this engagement
- 51:23no longer drive any engagement cuz they
- 51:24don't serve in the explore page and
- 51:25nobody sees your content after following
- 51:27you cuz it's all explore page. What is
- 51:29so interesting is
- 51:30how do you continue to make content that
- 51:31feels high value when it's not
- 51:34necessarily going to serve to your
- 51:35followers, but it's serving to someone
- 51:36net new and there has to be a hook. For
- 51:38us
- 51:39do you contend with AI? I think there's
- 51:41so many brands that are doing a ton of
- 51:42AI creative. It's not something that
- 51:44we've really explored or open to right
- 51:46now. I think we've leaned much more into
- 51:49friendship and art and showing how
- 51:51things are made by hand cuz that feels
- 51:53really grounding today. I also think
- 51:55we're just seeing a movement away from
- 51:57how algorithms make us feel. I mean, for
- 51:58me, I don't have social media on my
- 52:00phone because it makes me anxious. And I
- 52:02think you're seeing a movement of
- 52:03consumers starting to understand like
- 52:05what used to be an app for connection is
- 52:07largely now an app to sell you things.
- 52:09And it sells you things by making you
- 52:11feel like you need them. That's a really
- 52:13tough place to be as a consumer,
- 52:14especially as women, where we're told
- 52:16that all the time. I feel like I I look
- 52:17a lot at my own life, I look a lot at my
- 52:19friends, and
- 52:20what I see more and more is people
- 52:21limiting their time on apps, spending
- 52:23more time offline, engaging more in
- 52:25long-form content to your point,
- 52:26watching more long-form things, putting
- 52:28the second screen down, and developing
- 52:30hobbies outside of their phone. There's
- 52:32a very rapid shift happening in
- 52:33marketing because of the algorithm that
- 52:35I think is really interesting, but it's
- 52:36also that I think people are taking back
- 52:38what it means to to enjoy their time and
- 52:39spend their time, and I think that's
- 52:40really exciting.
- 52:41>> A final thing that I want to let you in
- 52:43on, which is so irrelevant, but I think
- 52:46very relevant to wrap up. I was in
- 52:48Austin, Texas at the start of the year,
- 52:51and I'd spent 2 months being living out
- 52:54of a suitcase. I was in New York, and I
- 52:55was going to Austin to see a friend of
- 52:59mine, and it was a difficult adventure.
- 53:02He's one of my oldest and best friends,
- 53:03and I hadn't seen him properly and
- 53:06really spoken to him since COVID. We had
- 53:08like a little semi-falling
- 53:09out/misunderstanding,
- 53:11and that day of getting up was hard for
- 53:13me, and I was staying at her house, and
- 53:16I walked out onto that walkway thing
- 53:19that's in that random little shopping
- 53:20strip, and as soon as I walked out, I
- 53:23looked to my right, and there was an
- 53:25enormous two-story Marimekko Home
- 53:27poster, and I felt relieved because I
- 53:30felt like, "Oh, my people are already
- 53:31here. This is fine. Like, this day is
- 53:33going to be okay." because it was there.
- 53:35Like, it did something to me that I
- 53:38didn't really think that a brand would
- 53:40ever do, but because you popped up in
- 53:42the most unexpected place. I didn't even
- 53:45really think a brick wall would be out
- 53:46of home real estate, but it was. Like
- 53:48obviously they were like, "That's a
- 53:49great place for a billboard." But it was
- 53:51huge and because Merit is so powerful in
- 53:55the fact that you're enough in terms of
- 53:57layering makeup and all of that. Like
- 53:58you guys aren't a brand that empowers
- 54:00women to necessarily cover up, but I
- 54:02would say you're a brand that empowers
- 54:03us to emphasize. It was a really
- 54:05incredible moment for me because I was
- 54:07lonely as Like I was like, "Whoa.
- 54:11Like I'm in Texas. What am I doing
- 54:13here?" Like it makes me really emotional
- 54:14cuz I was like, "I'm trying to make up
- 54:16with my friend. Like what am I doing in
- 54:18Austin?" And just seeing it was so
- 54:20strange, but I just want to say thanks
- 54:22because
- 54:23I think you have I didn't I really
- 54:26didn't expect to get this emotional
- 54:27about it. I'm so sorry.
- 54:28>> [laughter]
- 54:29>> Please don't apologize.
- 54:30>> What you've created with the girls at
- 54:33Leaf as well, they're so beautiful
- 54:36that when I looked at it, I was like,
- 54:39"Oh,
- 54:40my friends are here."
- 54:42And it was so weird. So it has this like
- 54:45layer of what you've been able to do in
- 54:47Australia has so much positivity. I
- 54:48think obviously in data C. I know that
- 54:50there are so many statistics about us
- 54:52being
- 54:53one of your
- 54:55um like biggest sellers or whatever. I'm
- 54:56so embarrassed that I'm crying. How
- 54:57awkward. But like
- 54:59>> But this is like it means so much to me.
- 55:01Please.
- 55:02>> But it's like but I I really think that
- 55:03you've done such an extraordinary job
- 55:05and I just want to say thank you because
- 55:06it was like a little a thing that I
- 55:08needed. You know how there's like all
- 55:09those Instagram posts that are like, "If
- 55:11this is the sign that you needed, this
- 55:12is for you." on Insta and you're like
- 55:14all of a sudden you're like, "I needed
- 55:16that." You didn't need it. It
- 55:17was the algorithm gave that to you. But
- 55:19there was honestly something that Merit
- 55:21has this thing about it. I think it also
- 55:24comes on a personal level because I know
- 55:25the girls at Leaf the way that they've
- 55:27run events here. It feels so welcoming
- 55:29and it feels so like we support you. So
- 55:32maybe it was Merit/Leaf Comms doing the
- 55:35universal job, but it honestly changed
- 55:38everything just from a glimpse of a
- 55:40billboard. And I know that that's so
- 55:42weird in theory, but in the moment it
- 55:44was everything.
- 55:45>> Well, it means a ton. I think But that's
- 55:47why we do what we do, right? I think You
- 55:49know, it's really funny. I wasn't
- 55:50allowed to wear makeup in high school
- 55:52until I started working in makeup. And I
- 55:54remember my mom being like, "But it's
- 55:56all about how you have to transform
- 55:57yourself, right?" Cuz I was really into
- 55:58standing cuz it's about not being
- 56:00enough. One of the things that I really
- 56:01had to thread the needle on in my
- 56:03responsibility or feeling like I am
- 56:05doing good in the world is that we
- 56:08adjust the relationship of believing
- 56:10that beauty is something that we have to
- 56:11change about ourselves. It's a very fine
- 56:13line in marketing makeup on
- 56:15on that relationship. And I think one,
- 56:17it's how do we unpack that? And to what
- 56:18you said earlier, it's not about
- 56:19transformation, it's about enhancement.
- 56:21That's the first thing. But two, you
- 56:23know, I see in so many female-founded
- 56:25businesses, especially surrounding
- 56:26beauty, how much of it is about uh shame
- 56:28versus belonging.
- 56:30Right? Because that's that's the
- 56:31spectrum that beauty's on. And I think
- 56:33one of the things that we've always been
- 56:34very clear on is how we treat people.
- 56:36And I'm so glad to hear it extends to
- 56:38Leaf. And I am always so proud of our
- 56:40team because what I like to believe more
- 56:41than anything is that we prioritize a
- 56:43feeling, but also we prioritize an ethic
- 56:45code, frankly, of how we treat people.
- 56:47Because that's what makes a brand,
- 56:49right? Is like a a greater belief and a
- 56:51a reason for buying in. And so much of
- 56:52that comes down to the people that you
- 56:53get to interact with and work with and
- 56:55how you make people feel.
- 56:56>> Yeah, it's honestly the best. It's so
- 56:58nice as well to just know that it's
- 57:00growing and it's not going anywhere. You
- 57:02know, like you guys have been so
- 57:03consistent. And I think
- 57:05it's a part of that like everything in
- 57:07this world changes and we don't as
- 57:08people have much of a foundation of what
- 57:10is going to stay the same. But to know
- 57:12that our beauty bag will, thank
- 57:14honestly, thank god. Like uh
- 57:17>> [clears throat]
- 57:18[laughter]
- 57:18>> Too much going on.
- 57:19>> better. We're always working on getting
- 57:20better.
- 57:21>> Yeah, I mean yeah, but sure, but like
- 57:22you're not going to change the color
- 57:23palette or you know, I mean it's always
- 57:25I hope it'll always be blue and gold.
- 57:27And I hope the logo doesn't change. Like
- 57:28we don't need any other
- 57:30any other changes. Please, just leave us
- 57:32alone.
- 57:33Give us something to believe in and
- 57:34depend on.
- 57:35>> With the algorithms changing all the
- 57:37time, I think we're good. Um so,
- 57:38[clears throat] everyone can shop Merit
- 57:39day to day, right? In Australia.
- 57:41>> Yeah. Yeah, at meritbeauty.com.
- 57:43>> And Clean Volume is the newest launch.
- 57:44It's the mascara that we were talking
- 57:46about today. What else is coming? What
- 57:48else can people keep their eye out for?
- 57:49>> Um a million things. A million things
- 57:51that are also not that much because
- 57:52we're Merit. Um we have some really
- 57:54exciting We have [music] one really
- 57:56exciting launch in the back half.
- 57:57>> I don't think I'm allowed to tell any
- 57:58anyone what that is, right?
- 57:59>> Not yet, unfortunately. But, lots to
- 58:01share. It is a personal one, so I'm very
- 58:04excited about it.
- 58:05>> Okay, amazing. Well, thank you so much
- 58:06for spending the morning with me. It has
- 58:08been an absolute pleasure. I'm obviously
- 58:10obsessed with the brand. I just cried,
- 58:11lol.
- 58:12>> [laughter]
- 58:13>> Thank you for the time. I really
- 58:15appreciate it.
- 58:20>> This podcast is a Sham Production
- 58:21recorded on Aboriginal land.
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