How I Get Stronger Fingers: Homewall Session — Transcript
Full transcript
- 0:00Hi everyone. I'm going to be in my
- 0:01garage today warming up and then
- 0:03climbing and sessioning on my home wall.
- 0:05So,
- 0:06um if you like home wall content, stick
- 0:07around. Probably going to do some hard
- 0:09boulders, show you how I warm up, maybe
- 0:12even do a couple of circuits in there,
- 0:13maybe some power endurance. We'll see
- 0:14where it takes us. I'm not entirely
- 0:15sure, but uh definitely some of those
- 0:17things. For sure some hard bouldering,
- 0:19definitely some try hard. So, stick
- 0:21around.
- 0:26Always start with bands.
- 0:39My skin has been
- 0:41>> It's been what?
- 0:41>> Surprising I don't know. My skin's just
- 0:42been like surprisingly bad for a while.
- 0:44Let's see.
- 0:45I can't really tell, but I think it
- 0:46might be like really dry today.
- 0:48>> Yeah, that's possible.
- 0:50>> My camera's not focusing on it, but
- 0:52we'll see how it goes.
- 0:53It got really thin the week of the World
- 0:54Cup
- 0:55cuz I was climbing on so much fiberglass
- 0:57with all the athletes in town.
- 0:59And I didn't have any anti-hydral and I
- 1:01was like, "Oh, my skin's good. Like I
- 1:02don't need anti-hydral anymore." And
- 1:03then no, it turns out I do actually
- 1:04really need anti-hydral still.
- 1:06So, uh gaslit myself into thinking I no
- 1:09longer had sweaty skin, which was not
- 1:10the case.
- 1:11Training's been going pretty well
- 1:13recently.
- 1:14I feel like just nice.
- 1:17I like
- 1:20finally got a long period of time at
- 1:22home
- 1:23to be able to start training cuz I feel
- 1:25like this summer I would just spend so
- 1:26much time
- 1:28doing a bunch of different things.
- 1:30That's nice to finally actually get some
- 1:32feelings of progress and that I actually
- 1:34could be good at lead,
- 1:35which has been the goal of this year.
- 1:38Do my three-finger bar hangs cuz I hate
- 1:40three-finger drags so much.
- 1:43It's easy like this.
- 1:45>> Yeah.
- 1:46>> [laughter]
- 1:46>> I think the the shape of the bar is just
- 1:48so comfy compared to like a hold. You
- 1:51don't It's like actually open.
- 1:53>> Yeah, that makes sense.
- 1:54>> When I'm like trying to open hand on
- 1:56other things, it feels a lot more like
- 1:58a skin problem, a skin issue.
- 2:00>> That makes sense.
- 2:01>> I don't understand how anybody is better
- 2:02at
- 2:03three than four.
- 2:05It doesn't make any sense to me.
- 2:07I think one of the reasons why I have
- 2:08not gotten injured, knock on wood,
- 2:11uh
- 2:12in climbing very often has been like a
- 2:14very thorough warm-up. And every time
- 2:16that I have gotten injured has been
- 2:18either a freak accident like falling on
- 2:19the edge of a pad or a lack of warm-up
- 2:22like my pulled lat or something. So,
- 2:25do your warm-up. Take a while. Like at
- 2:2630 now, it usually takes me like 45
- 2:28minutes to warm up. So,
- 2:30just just add in an extra hour if you
- 2:32have to at the gym. I also use warming
- 2:33up as a time to like kind of train those
- 2:35like rehab things. Like that's when you
- 2:37do your shoulder rehab or prehab with
- 2:39the bands. It's also when you can like
- 2:41Yeah, try and get better at a
- 2:43three-finger thing three-finger dangle,
- 2:46which I'm bad at.
- 2:48As like part of a warm-up cuz it's just
- 2:49body weight.
- 2:54Interesting.
- 2:56Can I hang
- 2:57the 15s in drag?
- 2:59>> Yes.
- 3:00>> I don't know.
- 3:00>> Yes, I believe.
- 3:01>> They're just like
- 3:02>> Attack.
- 3:03>> I just don't get it. It's just all skin.
- 3:05I just like put in drag and my feel like
- 3:07it was
- 3:11Yeah, the thing that I've been trying to
- 3:11do as far as like prehab during my
- 3:13warm-up
- 3:14is that I think I realized I was really
- 3:15bad at engaging my deep core
- 3:17muscles.
- 3:18Um probably I I think ever since I even
- 3:20got back surgery back when I was like
- 3:2113, I like messed up all my abs because
- 3:25they had developed with scoliosis and
- 3:26then they like separated during surgery
- 3:28and then I think I just never did
- 3:29anything to like reconnect them. So, I
- 3:31kind of have diastasis, which like most
- 3:32pregnant women have. Um
- 3:35which is not good.
- 3:36>> [laughter]
- 3:36>> So, I I've realized that kind of
- 3:38recently and I've been really trying to
- 3:39focus on like engaging my deep core
- 3:40while warming up. And I think it's
- 3:42noticed a really big difference,
- 3:43actually. But I'll do it when I'm like
- 3:45doing these
- 3:46rows. So, like I'll put my feet against
- 3:48the wall and then like really try and
- 3:50engage deep core
- 3:54and be able to breathe while I'm doing
- 3:55it.
- 3:56And then
- 4:00ideally, you can breathe, do the
- 4:02exercise,
- 4:04and keep it engaged
- 4:08the whole time. But, even just doing
- 4:10that for like a couple weeks, I've
- 4:11noticed like a pretty big improvement in
- 4:12like
- 4:13deep core engagement,
- 4:16which I think is good overall for like
- 4:18just health in general and also rock
- 4:19climbing. Next step in the twen-
- 4:22in the long warm-up process,
- 4:24grab actual holds.
- 4:42I got these new sick little holds from
- 4:43Greypoint Climbing
- 4:45that are like shaped like little faces
- 4:47and they're wood.
- 4:48They're hard.
- 4:52Oh, yeah. That's sick.
- 4:54But, it's Halloween today, so these are
- 4:55actually
- 4:58pretty nifty.
- 5:01I was debating between doing a
- 5:02hangboarding workout or just like
- 5:05crimping really hard on the home wall.
- 5:06And I feel like I've been feeling really
- 5:07good on edges and I haven't been feeling
- 5:09good on like really small crimps. So, I
- 5:11opted for
- 5:13the really small crimps
- 5:15instead of hangboarding today.
- 5:20So, I got to make myself full crimp.
- 5:23Hopefully not split on anything cuz I've
- 5:24been battling some middle finger splits
- 5:26for a while.
- 5:28That's what I get for
- 5:30not using Antihydral, then using
- 5:31Antihydral, then having this like soft
- 5:33sweaty skin underneath the dry skin.
- 5:36That's how I end up splitting.
- 5:38Um
- 5:40Should I wear my really beat up shoes
- 5:42today?
- 5:43But, they're so comfy.
- 5:46I'm going to start with the beat up ones
- 5:48and if I need to break out the big guns
- 5:50to do
- 5:51harder stuff,
- 5:52I'll do that.
- 5:55I just love
- 5:57the Havoc.
- 5:58They're such a great all around shoe and
- 6:00they're so comfortable
- 6:02that they're like the best training shoe
- 6:03ever.
- 6:04Cuz they're just like good at basically
- 6:06everything.
- 6:07Shoes are on.
- 6:10Find the jugs.
- 6:15I like that.
- 6:21Woah, the temperature difference
- 6:24at the top of the garage versus the
- 6:25bottom of the garage is wild.
- 6:27My hand got like instantly hot when I
- 6:29grabbed the top hold.
- 6:31All right, time to grab
- 6:32smaller holds
- 6:35so that I'm ready to crimp.
- 6:38Have to be
- 6:40Oh, man. I sometimes get so scared
- 6:42climbing on my home wall cuz I'm like,
- 6:43"Ooh, what if I'm bad at it?"
- 6:46>> [laughter]
- 6:46>> And then I just like get scared and
- 6:47don't do it. It's one of my worst
- 6:49traits, I think, actually for hard rock
- 6:51climbing
- 6:52is that I'll be like, "I'll just I'm not
- 6:53strong enough yet. I'll get on it when I
- 6:54feel better." Which then prevents me
- 6:56from sometimes trying as hard as I
- 6:58know I can or should try.
- 7:01But,
- 7:03I'm trying to get better at it. Conquer
- 7:05those fears.
- 7:11It's kind of a cool move.
- 7:12Do something similar on this side.
- 7:15Huh, good foot.
- 7:20Oh, that's cool, too.
- 7:23Top, top, top.
- 7:25That looks good, though.
- 7:28All right.
- 7:30Warming up.
- 7:32Okey-dokey, first actual climb of the
- 7:34day. I got to call this one V6.
- 7:46Nobody else likes this one, but I think
- 7:48it's really nice.
- 7:57I think it's lovely.
- 7:59But, everyone else finds it really
- 8:00crimpy and gross, but
- 8:02in a nice way.
- 8:05I got a couple
- 8:07super pretty
- 8:09Faza brushes recently.
- 8:11Oh, stunning.
- 8:14Which
- 8:15is a friendly reminder to always brush
- 8:16the board.
- 8:18Everything feels gross even
- 8:20on my home board that doesn't even see
- 8:22that much traffic.
- 8:28I wonder if it got dusty during the
- 8:30>> Yeah.
- 8:30>> during the summer.
- 8:32So cute. Look at it.
- 8:37Adorbs.
- 8:39All right. First time trying to do this
- 8:41one in a while, but I did the sections
- 8:43already on off camera, so we'll see.
- 8:50>> Nice, Skara.
- 8:53>> Oh, I missed it.
- 8:55That was a pretty good go. Second move
- 8:57is kind of crux, so second and third
- 8:58move.
- 9:00But I did the third move already
- 9:02in Isa, so
- 9:04Next go. Next go, basket. I missed it a
- 9:05little bit. Mulligan.
- 9:08Hopefully.
- 9:09This is one of those climbs that I'm
- 9:10always intimidated to get on like I was
- 9:11saying.
- 9:14>> [music]
- 9:20>> Nice, Skara.
- 9:29>> [music]
- 9:33>> Oh.
- 9:35Nice.
- 9:36>> Hell yeah.
- 9:36>> didn't feel too bad.
- 9:38That move is easy to miss, but
- 9:41fingers feel good.
- 9:43Call that a win.
- 9:44Okay, I have a bunch of these pusher
- 9:46crimps
- 9:47that look like this.
- 9:50They're pretty bad.
- 9:53That's my hand on it.
- 9:55Pretty bad, very thin.
- 9:57But happened to accidentally like put
- 9:59them basically in a ladder.
- 10:02I just added that one from a different
- 10:03part of the wall.
- 10:05So I think we could have a pretty hard
- 10:07systems
- 10:09training.
- 10:11This one's a little better.
- 10:12But it'd be nice and crimpy. You could
- 10:13probably make it easier
- 10:15with big feet
- 10:17and then harder with smaller feet, so
- 10:19I'm going to try that next. Now, we'll
- 10:20just start with right hand kind of
- 10:22anywhere
- 10:23and do any feet and see how hard it is.
- 10:25Let's go big feet, big feet.
- 10:31Okay.
- 10:33Got a toe hook.
- 10:42Okay, well, that's hard even with any
- 10:43feet.
- 10:45>> You got it?
- 10:49Come on.
- 10:53Nice. All right.
- 10:55Come on.
- 10:58Looks great. Okay.
- 11:01Come on.
- 11:02>> Okay.
- 11:05That is a nice trainer.
- 11:07Okay, the ending that I just did was too
- 11:09easy. So, I'm going to try and
- 11:12make the ending a little bit more spicy
- 11:13cuz the last one is really good. Oh god.
- 11:19I'm going to try
- 11:20another possible ending.
- 11:23Slightly more ticky-tacky, but adding in
- 11:25holds that are not just red.
- 11:27So, aesthetically potentially less
- 11:28pleasing.
- 11:29Okay.
- 11:36>> Yeah, there it is. Come on.
- 11:40Come on.
- 11:41Yeah.
- 11:42>> Oh, that one's so slippery.
- 11:44Needs chalk.
- 11:47It's funny, I'm doing like these like
- 11:48really good feet
- 11:49that lets me like
- 11:51pull
- 11:52like pull my hips in. And then it's just
- 11:54like, but
- 11:55so I'm taking a lot of weight off. Just
- 11:57not swinging out at all, which is
- 11:59interesting.
- 12:01With all the best possible feet, this
- 12:03guy
- 12:06much less slippery now.
- 12:10>> Yes.
- 12:12>> Oh, it's so slippery.
- 12:18Well, holding the cuts going to be hard.
- 12:24Go!
- 12:24You can slip off it at the last second.
- 12:26Okay, I'm going to try and send bottom
- 12:29to the tick-tacky top. Any feet still.
- 12:31The goal is crimping.
- 12:33It's not tension.
- 12:34>> [laughter]
- 12:35>> Tac tac tac.
- 12:36Tac tac. The cross was hard.
- 12:39Gaston's hard.
- 12:40Finish holding you just got to believe
- 12:41in. You like think it's going to be
- 12:42terrible, but it's actually better than
- 12:43you think.
- 12:47>> Beautiful.
- 12:57Come on, Cass.
- 13:06>> Go! No!
- 13:08Oh, this is the jug. I got the jug.
- 13:10Ow!
- 13:13Everything was so slippery that time.
- 13:15I got beat hold and went zoo.
- 13:17Tiny bit.
- 13:19Woo!
- 13:20Ow!
- 13:21I'm five-finger crimping some of them.
- 13:23Where instead of putting your thumb on
- 13:24top of your finger, it's like on
- 13:26especially this one.
- 13:28I get my thumb on the side and like
- 13:29five-finger crimp instead of
- 13:31full crimp.
- 13:33And if you don't know what that is, I'll
- 13:34show you.
- 13:35Five-finger crimp
- 13:37is
- 13:38you grab it and then you put your thumb
- 13:40like on it so that like it's also
- 13:41pulling down on the hold.
- 13:43versus like
- 13:45Let's see. Refocus one.
- 13:47Full crimp.
- 13:48You like grab a hold and put your thumb
- 13:50over like that. Where it's not actually
- 13:51touching the hold, it's touching your
- 13:52finger.
- 13:54But this one I five-finger crimp.
- 13:56Where my thumb is there.
- 13:57I need a break from that type of
- 13:59crimping and I will instead do a
- 14:01different type of crimping.
- 14:04>> You're even more savage boulder.
- 14:06>> I think this one's easier. Well, no,
- 14:08it's not easier. That's That was a total
- 14:09lie. It's definitely not easier
- 14:11actually.
- 14:17Completely mis-saddled.
- 14:22>> Yeah, Cara, come on.
- 14:26>> I
- 14:27need a full crimp. That's what I'm
- 14:29doing. I'm just trying to half crimp.
- 14:30Now I understand.
- 14:32I need a full crimp.
- 14:34>> Thumbs up.
- 14:37>> I like small crimps with good feet. I'm
- 14:39bad at
- 14:40like medium crimps with bad feet.
- 14:42And bad crimps with bad feet. So,
- 14:45maybe I'm doing the wrong drills
- 14:47>> [laughter]
- 14:48>> But you got to work up to it somehow, I
- 14:49guess. Like that's what I found hard
- 14:51about Amandala and Rawlins is
- 14:53the crimps are actually better than you
- 14:54think they are, but the feet are pretty
- 14:55bad. That type of engagement I have a
- 14:57hard time with.
- 14:58So,
- 14:59if I can't like pull in with my feet a
- 15:00lot, I have a hard time.
- 15:07>> Nice, Cara.
- 15:15Yeah.
- 15:19>> Okay.
- 15:21Yeah, the key was full crimping. I was
- 15:22being silly.
- 15:23I just want I wanted to half crimp it
- 15:25and you just don't get the same like
- 15:27ability to
- 15:28pull into the wall that you
- 15:30you get with a full crimp.
- 15:33That felt good. That was nice.
- 15:35You can try the low actually today.
- 15:37The low's hard.
- 15:38Oh, okay. It's going to be hard.
- 15:39>> You got it.
- 15:46Yeah, Cara.
- 15:55Come on.
- 15:58Come on.
- 16:01>> I gripped it in a really weird
- 16:02>> to you got to get this one.
- 16:04You got the other.
- 16:06Yeah.
- 16:10Stick it.
- 16:12>> Oh, I gripped it wrong.
- 16:14So wrong.
- 16:15It's like
- 16:17the center
- 16:18I had like my pointer finger in the
- 16:19center. I couldn't scoot till like the
- 16:21middle two being in the center.
- 16:23Okay, we may have to back off the
- 16:25crimping for the rest of the day.
- 16:26>> [laughter]
- 16:27>> My dream is to have a circuit that ends
- 16:30eventually on that like really crimpy
- 16:33climb that I just did. Cuz if you could
- 16:34like climb whatever [clears throat] else
- 16:36like 35 moves, then get down into that
- 16:38undercling, and then climb that climb,
- 16:40feel like you'd be so good.
- 16:42So that's that's the dream. That's one
- 16:44of the goals.
- 16:45Yeah, like 30 moves into that would be
- 16:47so sick.
- 16:48And I also feel like
- 16:49if you could do that, like you could
- 16:51hopefully be making finals [laughter] at
- 16:52a world cup, I don't know. I don't know.
- 16:56Okay, I'm going to try a climb I haven't
- 16:57tried in a while.
- 16:59That's called Standard Scarab. I've
- 17:00never sent it. I think only Jesse's sent
- 17:02it.
- 17:04It's really straightforward, but just a
- 17:05hard cuz scarabs are just bad,
- 17:07which are these old technique grips
- 17:09that are not that old, but I guess at
- 17:11this point they're old.
- 17:13>> [laughter]
- 17:20>> Oh my god, it's so far away. Woo!
- 17:24Okay, that is the foot.
- 17:27Well,
- 17:28very different, much bigger grips.
- 17:31Bad feet.
- 17:31>> [laughter]
- 17:32>> That the left foot is the golf ball
- 17:34foot, which is two dual texture golf
- 17:36balls
- 17:36or no texture golf balls.
- 17:39Then right foot is like a little
- 17:39technique jib.
- 17:41So it's just very tensiony.
- 17:44That's a really low foot.
- 17:49>> Nice pair. Come on.
- 17:51>> Where am I going? Oh my god, it's all so
- 17:53far away. Okay.
- 17:55It's been a while since I've tried this
- 17:56one.
- 18:03I can keep the foot on, but I I'm trying
- 18:05to drop. Need to get more distance, but
- 18:07I think that's bad.
- 18:09Maybe I'll try with my hand
- 18:11not actually on the start hold, but not
- 18:13on the jug, somewhere
- 18:15in between here.
- 18:17Like this guy.
- 18:28>> Come on.
- 18:31Yeah.
- 18:31>> Okay, I touched it.
- 18:34Okay, that was closer. Still wasn't from
- 18:35the actual hold, but
- 18:37I used
- 18:38the start hold is this one
- 18:40and I used this one. So, it's pretty
- 18:42close. But, like man, it's marginal.
- 18:45Like hit it like
- 18:47>> It's close.
- 18:52Yeah.
- 18:53>> Got the patella.
- 18:56I said this isn't my fault.
- 19:05>> [laughter]
- 19:06>> I'm spent.
- 19:08>> That was so hard.
- 19:09>> Literally, I said it. This is I did this
- 19:11to myself.
- 19:13>> Come on.
- 19:15Yeah.
- 19:15>> How my fingers all of a sudden got
- 19:17tired.
- 19:18Makes sense.
- 19:19Longer rest.
- 19:20Um I think I'm going to try this climb
- 19:23with any feet.
- 19:30>> Yeah, Kyra.
- 19:36>> Couldn't decide.
- 19:37I put my foot on the real start hold
- 19:39or the real hold. I'm confusing myself.
- 19:42Well, it's crazy how much easier that
- 19:43move is with like
- 19:45just a good foot right above it.
- 19:47Cuz it's not that much higher.
- 19:50But, I mean it's massive.
- 19:52So.
- 19:56Okay.
- 19:57Nice.
- 20:00So, low part jump. Jump.
- 20:14>> Yeah, Kyra. Come on.
- 20:20>> Retro flash the beginning, that's pretty
- 20:21good for not getting on that for a
- 20:23while.
- 20:25And with my hands this tired, this deep
- 20:27into the session.
- 20:33>> Yep. Come on.
- 20:43>> [music]
- 20:52[laughter]
- 20:53>> Way too late in the session to try and
- 20:55do that thing.
- 20:56As soon as I just do the first two
- 20:57moves, my hands are
- 20:59gassed. Gassed.
- 21:02Okay. I feel psyched at where I'm at
- 21:04home wall-wise.
- 21:05There was no need to be scared.
- 21:08>> [laughter]
- 21:11>> Still remember how to home wall.
- 21:14My strengths are still my strengths.
- 21:17Kind of want to do one go on the
- 21:18circuit.
- 21:19>> Yeah.
- 21:21>> Try
- 21:22send my circuit from last time while
- 21:24much more tired.
- 21:25>> [laughter]
- 21:26>> Seems like a great plan.
- 21:38>> [snorts]
- 22:14>> Good.
- 22:28>> [panting]
- 22:39>> You got it.
- 22:46Good care. Come on.
- 22:50Come on. Big bite.
- 22:58>> [sighs]
- 23:02>> Good.
- 23:06My tape was rolling
- 23:08the whole time.
- 23:09>> [gasps]
- 23:10>> Pretty sick though that matched high
- 23:11point like
- 23:13you know, 3 and 1/2 hours deep
- 23:15in the session.
- 23:17So, hopefully that means
- 23:20we're making endurance gains.
- 23:23And my hands are very tired.
- 23:25Like normally I would be able to like
- 23:26grab the crimps
- 23:27>> [laughter]
- 23:27>> like the good ones
- 23:28and shake
- 23:30but I couldn't really rely on that.
- 23:33Oh, my heart rate is high.
- 23:35>> That's sick.
- 23:36>> Thanks.
- 23:36>> I was going to say that your your hands
- 23:37lasting long enough to get that winded
- 23:39is kind of impressive too.
- 23:42>> Yeah, I think I must have been holding
- 23:43my breath through the whole down
- 23:44climbers or something.
- 23:45I only have like five more moves.
- 23:56>> My wrist.
- 24:02>> [panting]
- 24:04>> Oh, I was so close.
- 24:06I'll send that next sesh for sure.
- 24:09And then I have to make it harder.
- 24:10>> Laps.
- 24:11>> Then you go into buttons like I said.
- 24:13The dream. [gasps]
- 24:15Okay.
- 24:16I think [sighs]
- 24:18I'm going to be done.
- 24:19>> [gasps]
- 24:20>> That was a good thing to end on and if I
- 24:21go any longer
- 24:23I think my hands might give out so.
- 24:26Man, I love climbing on this wall though
- 24:27cuz my skin is just still
- 24:29like I didn't do any skin damage at all.
- 24:32So good. Well, and I taped my splits for
- 24:34that whole sesh.
- 24:36Cuz sometimes it's just
- 24:38that you like the moment you think it's
- 24:39okay to untape,
- 24:41tape for like 2 more days and then it's
- 24:42good.
- 24:43>> [gasps]
- 24:46[snorts]
- 24:47>> Ended up being a really good sesh. Uh
- 24:48mostly did what I set out to do of like
- 24:51actually full crimping a lot. Uh my
- 24:52fingers now feel very tired, especially
- 24:54ending with a circuit. And I'm really
- 24:56pleased that like my endurance has come
- 24:57along where I like don't have to rely on
- 24:59finger strength anymore because it used
- 25:00to be that like my fingers were strong,
- 25:02but as soon as I like lost that, I was
- 25:04like off the wall. And it now seems like
- 25:06I can do a circuit even when my fingers
- 25:08are tired, which is telling me that like
- 25:10the rest of the systems or something are
- 25:11catching up. But
- 25:13>> [laughter]
- 25:13>> uh yeah, I have a lot more goals of like
- 25:14what I want to do circuit-wise on the
- 25:16home wall, so I'm excited that it's
- 25:17climbable again. Uh I think it'll be
- 25:19really helpful for upcoming goals like
- 25:21next year for World Cups and Nationals
- 25:23and everything. So,
- 25:24yeah, thanks for watching.
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