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Glenn Martens on Being a Fangirl, Erotic Zones, and Chloë Sevigny | Fashion Neurosis — Transcript

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0:08Hi, come in.
0:16>> Welcome [music] to Fashion Neurosis,
0:17Glenn Martins.
0:20>> Thank you for having me.
0:21>> Can you tell me what you're wearing
0:23today and why you chose these particular
0:25clothes?
0:27Um I mean obviously the question and you
0:29you would ask uh [laughter]
0:31but um it started mainly with the idea
0:34that I stopped smoking a month and a
0:36half ago and uh
0:38>> and I think uh the reality is there
0:40really I mean you compensate. [laughter]
0:43>> So you eat you eat and and so I needed
0:46something to snuggle into even if it's
0:49like 40° in London and super hot. So
0:52that was the starting point. I I
0:54wouldn't go for for the knitwear. And
0:57then and then the other thing is that I
0:59kind of mostly wear always I mean my
1:01friends would see me wearing this shirt
1:03like weekly.
1:05>> Uh I would see me wearing the same pants
1:06weekly. I think I'm I'm a very much a a
1:09uniform kind of guy. I like to wear
1:11clothes constantly, the same clothes
1:13when I like something. When I when I
1:15[snorts] fall in love with a t-shirt or
1:17shirt, I just wear them every every day
1:19of the week ideally. Um, and until they
1:22kind of dissolve uh on my body. So
1:25that's kind of the one I'm wearing now.
1:28>> Is everything [clears throat] designed
1:29by you?
1:30>> No, no, no. The jacket is um Magella um
1:33and the the also the the pants are
1:36Magella from before me. So from John,
1:38>> the great thing is that those denims
1:40have a really nice rigid denim. So, it's
1:42uh
1:43>> I mean, obviously at Diesel, we we have
1:44great denims also, but there's mostly a
1:46bit of of uh comfort stretch and uh I
1:50like the more more a bit more more
1:52stiff. I think they live longer, they
1:53live better.
1:55>> And the shirt I bought in a secondhand
1:56store like in 2008 when I recently I
2:00just had moved to Paris with one of my
2:02Belgium
2:03>> buddies. I think we went to some
2:04secondhand stores. This is basically
2:06where I used to always shop and uh and
2:10it was amazing and it still is amazing
2:11because it's very it's like sunfaded but
2:13naturally which is impossible to make. I
2:15mean like I mean I've been trying to do
2:17this kind of sun fade techniques in
2:19every single company I've worked at and
2:21you only get the real soul when it's
2:23really been been worn under like under
2:26the the burning sun I think.
2:28>> And that's why I fell in love with it.
2:29And uh it was €20 I think in those days
2:32which was a fortune. So that's
2:35[laughter]
2:36obviously why I cherish it and it's
2:38still in okay good state today.
2:42>> Yeah, I love wearing the same things.
2:44And someone mentioned the other day that
2:47everything looks good with holes in too,
2:49which hasn't I always love my old
2:52sweaters with holes and but I hadn't
2:56thought about it so specifically and it
2:58was a good was a good
3:01>> observation. It's so much better when
3:03there's a soul. I mean like it's really
3:05uh I mean I think that's why I always
3:07went to secondhand shopping of course
3:09because it was cheaper
3:11>> in the beginning when I was a student
3:12but I really love the idea that this has
3:15has had a life.
3:17>> Yeah.
3:18>> I think that's also why denim is so sexy
3:20actually.
3:21>> Yeah.
3:21>> I think a good denim and especially
3:23rigid denim just gets better and better
3:25>> the more you wear it, the more memories
3:27it carries, the more holes it has, the
3:29more the more it's it's distressed. And
3:32uh yeah, that's I think that's why I
3:33love denim.
3:34>> Yeah. Well, I wore this denim shirt
3:37especially for you. [laughter]
3:38>> Oh,
3:39>> it's new and it's rigid.
3:42Um and you're a hugely respected fashion
3:46designer who's famous in the industry
3:48and you're the creative director of both
3:51Mar Mason Margela and Diesel designing
3:54some of the most exciting fashion. And
3:58um
4:00do you adjust your identity in any way
4:03when you're switching from one house to
4:06the other?
4:09>> Good question. [laughter]
4:11I do adjust I used to let's say like
4:14that I think I used to have a a diesel
4:16uniform. uh when I arrived in the
4:19company I really had like there was a
4:21bit of a a friction also a deal because
4:24it was a company which had had quite a
4:26long series of different uh CEOs. So
4:29there was a lot of people in the company
4:31who had arrived there according to a
4:33different strategy. M
4:35>> so um when I started 5 years ago I I of
4:38course did oneto ones with all my heads
4:40off and all my my head designers and and
4:43I asked them what is diesel for them and
4:47every single one of them had a very
4:49different opinion about the brands
4:50because they were hired at a different
4:52moment under a different direction and I
4:55was like okay this is going to be the
4:56biggest challenge the number one is we
4:58like we have to make all those people
5:00speak the same language again
5:02>> and I thought having a uniform was very
5:04helpful cuz I became just a neutral
5:06person. So I bought this kind of black
5:08cargo pants and black cargo shirts and I
5:10was just wearing this. I had like
5:12triples of them actually
5:14>> um utility wear which felt very close to
5:17diesel and then I wore this for the
5:19first 6 months until my my first
5:20collection came out and that was just
5:22black denim shirt, black denim pants and
5:24it very much helped um yeah just like
5:29making people not uh focus too much on
5:33how I look like and just focus on on I
5:36was really neutral let's say help being
5:38neutral
5:38>> and then
5:40>> at my jella Uh, obviously I mean the the
5:43the greatest gift that Marta could ever
5:47have given us is the bloun. [laughter]
5:50>> Yeah.
5:50>> It's like this white white lab coat that
5:52we all wear in the office. Um, so I also
5:56kind of disappear which is quite great.
5:58So I think um I mean lookwise I
6:01definitely am quite similar I would say
6:03now. Um and personality wise I think the
6:06same too. I mean they both belong to OTB
6:08and I think they both do have
6:10>> a similar approach somewhere somehow in
6:12the way that
6:14>> they're very independent. It's a very
6:16individual brand and there's not that
6:18many neither in the in the luxury world.
6:20I think Mel is so
6:23different than the other ones that
6:25there's no need to
6:27>> I mean they have that link. They have
6:29that link and and D also as a lifestyle
6:31branch is talking to so many different
6:33customers in so many different ways that
6:35there's no real competition. So,
6:37[snorts] uh, we all very free spirits
6:40people in there. So, there's a I kind of
6:42got lost maybe. [laughter]
6:46>> I love keep on going. Keep on going.
6:49>> I love the idea that a different outfit
6:52will just shift you slightly into a
6:54different kind of uh receptiveness to
6:58the needs of that that um brand and uh
7:03something that subtle.
7:05>> [snorts]
7:06>> Yeah, but I mean I think we we
7:08clothing doesn't really have a very big
7:10influence in how you've been perceived.
7:12I mean that's whole that's kind of the
7:14whole key of it. No, and I think uh
7:16>> uh and and I mean I've played that game
7:20quite I mean I have to play the game
7:21also quite intensively. M
7:23>> so [snorts]
7:26>> and you said your mother didn't easily
7:28hand out compliments but she would
7:30always praise your emotional
7:31intelligence and that was one of the
7:34only compliments that she'd give you and
7:36how do you deal with compliments and are
7:39you able to give them or receive them?
7:43>> I think I'm very pragmatic. I'm not the
7:45biggest I mean I'm a very group worker
7:48let's say like I think I'm really I'm
7:50I'm always asking people's opinions and
7:52I think even though I'm I'm very
7:55directional I include people so it's not
7:57going to be this dominant kind of
7:59creative director yeah dictating what's
8:02going to happen um
8:05but it's true that um I will say thank
8:08you um a lot
8:11>> but I'm not the biggest compliment
8:13giver. It's true that maybe it's it's
8:14part of my education that we were not
8:17complimented and I think that's probably
8:19also reason why I made it so far in my
8:22life because I think
8:24>> I never got so much confirmation from
8:26home. I think I think it was never like
8:28something that people would say like
8:30>> I think my my dad still today is of
8:33course very very proud of me but I mean
8:36I'm not sure he really [laughter]
8:38I mean I wonder when the last time what
8:40I mean he's very proud. it's not it's
8:41not it's not verbally very well um
8:45dictated or like he's not going to give
8:47it.
8:47>> So I guess I do the same thing. I should
8:49maybe do it more often. But I think
8:51people do know that I love working
8:52together. I mean both at Diesel and at
8:55Magella uh it's a family feeling and I
8:58think
8:59>> they really feel they really know that I
9:01respect them and I'm really invested
9:03100%
9:04in in in in in the work the work that we
9:08do together. So it's uh I think they get
9:11like rewards in a different way.
9:13>> Yeah, it's such an interesting thing.
9:16Someone once asked me what was the best
9:18compliment I'd received and I thought
9:21gosh that's such a good question and uh
9:24and I remembered it too when I was 20 or
9:27something. Somebody said I was wearing
9:30this suit that I the one of the first
9:32things I'd ever made. Maybe I was n and
9:34he said, "Oh, you look like a man." And
9:37I thought, "Wow, that's amazing." And
9:40but my mother never paid me any
9:42compliments. And
9:43>> but I love I love paying compliments. So
9:47>> Oh, you do?
9:48>> Yeah. I I and and now I think you have
9:51to I don't know how um correct it is you
9:55know to comment on how wonderful
9:57someone's looks. So I have to keep it in
10:01some you know I
10:04>> it's complicated [laughter]
10:06>> I would
10:07>> it's interesting
10:07>> say that they look cute when they look
10:09cute of course people but yeah
10:12>> yeah but
10:14it's strange as complimenting is true
10:16today 26 it can turn around so
10:20>> fast
10:22yeah
10:23>> because you described your mother as a
10:26very complicated woman and She took her
10:28own life in 2023. And did you ever
10:32imagine that she might do something like
10:35that?
10:35>> No, never really. I mean, she was very
10:37um proud and very angry.
10:39>> So, it didn't that didn't really fit
10:40into the the the system. I mean, she she
10:43really
10:44>> she was a mother which a woman who I
10:46mean she was definitely a mother. She
10:48she really loved us um
10:50>> intensively and a lionist type of
10:53mother. Um but um at [snorts] a certain
10:57point she gave love. I mean any any kind
11:00of way how to get attention would feel
11:02would give her confirmation of being
11:04important. So it wasn't by giving
11:07compliments or by
11:09>> uh giving love. was actually by I don't
11:12know why but her I mean there's
11:13definitely there was definitely some
11:14kind of something there a problem but um
11:18aggression and and and fights and um and
11:23and lies would actually I think make her
11:25feel very
11:28um present of course there's a reality
11:31to it that that is undeniable and
11:33there's so many we all confronted to it
11:35and many people um decide to to end
11:38their life because for multiple reason.
11:41I mean for for many multiple reasons.
11:43The thing is there always the leftovers
11:44and the people who are the family and
11:45the children and the friends
11:48>> which uh which we all know are of course
11:51the ones dealing with the with the
11:53trauma. And you just so often don't see
11:57it that actually the person you're
11:58working the person who's in front of you
11:59is actually maybe going through one of
12:02the darkest moment of their life and are
12:04like in agony of of of pain.
12:07>> Yeah. and and have to keep on going. And
12:09I think that's something that I mean I
12:11lived intensively obviously my my mother
12:14killed herself um on the 7th of
12:17September 2023 and that was literally 7
12:21days before or maybe 10 days something
12:23before I had my diesel show. And the
12:25dealer show was an open rave to 7,000
12:28people open to public uh in Milan where
12:32there was like I don't know 17 hours of
12:34rave and I was there pretending having
12:37the best time and motivating the whole
12:39the teams the whole gang of being like
12:41this is great and obviously nobody
12:43besides my CMO maybe and and the CEO
12:46>> knew that that I was going to to the
12:49death of my mother. Um, and literally
12:51then I had after that rave where I just
12:55faked the the joy and happiness of life,
12:57I flew back to Belgium again to bury her
13:00and she was we we very legally um
13:03shattered her ashes under a tree.
13:05>> And uh those ashes were like scruffled.
13:08My brother had to like kind of dig them
13:10in a bit as was quite illegal in the
13:12dirt. And I went with her ashes back to
13:14Paris to have the Y project show, the
13:17brand I used to work for. three days
13:19later and I mean and then the song of
13:22the Y project show was the last white
13:23project show was actually her funeral
13:25song was like linked to her and I mean
13:27and all of this happened but of course
13:29with with with a lot of as a creative
13:31director of course I mean you're not
13:33going to the depth and the and the
13:36sadness that you're you're dealing with
13:38you don't want to reflect that to that
13:39team of hundreds of people which are all
13:42there working since months and months on
13:44that one project and and want to
13:46celebrate a group effort and of course
13:48all of this I I I completely kept uh
13:52aside. [snorts] Um and it just makes me
13:56a bit more hopefully more more aware of
13:58of of tragedies and and trying to be
14:01maybe not complimenting people but being
14:04soft
14:05>> and sweet and and being understanding to
14:07people and
14:08>> and I think I definitely became a more
14:10>> soft person even though I guess a lot of
14:13people would say I'm I'm quite harsh.
14:15Well, it's um it's uh life is is is
14:21hard.
14:21>> Yeah.
14:23>> No, it um I mean it completely changes
14:27one and especially of a parent somehow.
14:30It's the the ultimate abandonment and uh
14:34>> Mhm. Um
14:36>> yeah it's um I mean it is the and your
14:39mother is the
14:42>> I don't know for me at least my mother
14:43even though there was a lot of friction
14:45and a lot of sadness in our life
14:47together she was the ultimate symbol of
14:50love you know um
14:53>> and you can never find that back in
14:56somebody else I mean I was very very
14:58close to my grandmother the mother of my
15:00mother she passed away in Christmas
15:02>> at a very beautiful age of 97 seven.
15:04>> Gosh.
15:05>> But um it's still the mother is is is
15:09different. I guess it's very very
15:11different. There's only one
15:13>> cuz she worked very hard as a nurse and
15:16she also sometimes did cleaning work at
15:18the weekend. And what did she look like?
15:21What was your overriding memory of her
15:23presence?
15:24>> She was very very beautiful when she was
15:26young. Um very twiggy vibe 60s gorgeous
15:31>> very skinny dark dark brown hair. big
15:33big eyes. Um then obviously like after
15:36the divorce of my dad when when when
15:38when I was three
15:40>> I mean yeah it was the 80s so she worked
15:43hard and I do remember that uh I mean
15:47she didn't have a time between being a
15:48nurse and a cleaning lady. she didn't
15:50really have a time to take really care
15:51of herself and she also didn't I mean
15:53she didn't I understand I mean
15:55>> you have two kids to to to feed and you
15:58have to work and
15:59>> so like being dressed was not really her
16:04priority until those few moments a year
16:06where she was out with
16:08>> a boyfriend or friends and then she just
16:11turned into Cinderella and then the
16:13makeup came up and then
16:15>> the hair was brushed and that happened
16:16so rarely but I remember when she was
16:18dressing up I was as a child just
16:20magnetized watching through the door and
16:22looking at those eyes becoming just like
16:24paintings.
16:26>> And uh she was very very pretty I have
16:28to say.
16:29>> So yeah.
16:31>> Gosh. cuz you said your first connection
16:35um to fashion was when you were six and
16:38you drew historic figures and saints and
16:40virgins, kings and queens and you said
16:43anything dramatic and they all had to
16:46die in some dramatic way like a snake
16:49biting their boob [laughter]
16:51or being beheaded. And I wondered what
16:54appealed to you about this gruesome
16:56drama at such a young age
16:58>> cuz already very very gay, very
17:00dramatic. [laughter]
17:02So uh secretly no I think the thing was
17:04that um I mean my parents divorced when
17:07I was a child when I was a very young
17:08tree and um my brother stopped going to
17:11see my dad for multiple reasons and
17:13lawsuits and whatever. So I was very
17:15lonely going to my dad every second week
17:18>> and um and very traumatized obviously
17:20also because the whole my home was was
17:23was somewhere else and I I had this
17:26person this dad that I've never
17:28>> met with my mother. I had no memory of
17:30him being with my mother ever or with my
17:32family. So, it was a very depressive,
17:35sad uh start of the weekend. And my dad
17:38is a is a judge. So, he's very strict
17:40and he would never really adjust his
17:42planning towards children. So, I mean,
17:45we would have to go to or I would have
17:47to go and do the things that he wanted
17:49to do. And uh but he would be extremely
17:51good in explaining it. And I think the
17:53sadness that I had, he would completely
17:56kill it by over dramatizing life and
17:59history and making everything look like
18:01a theater. So we would go to museums and
18:04obviously I mean if you look at history
18:06just classic glo European history,
18:08everybody gets murdered in crusades and
18:11castles get burnt and raped and
18:13whatever. It's very blood bloody and
18:16>> painful. But he would turn it into some
18:18kind of very intense uh fairy tale. And
18:23that was the way how we would be
18:24completely hooked to it. And then uh and
18:27then in the evening indeed like when
18:28when it was like Saturday night,
18:30[snorts]
18:31he would not go for like little a little
18:34cute Disney fairy tale. will go for
18:35Cleopatra and or some some historic
18:39creature or historic story which was all
18:42very intense and dramatic and uh and he
18:46would bring it in such an amazing way
18:48that I was just hooked to it. So yeah,
18:50those those those moments when I was
18:51drawing uh very early on I I was I mean
18:56my brother was also much older than me
18:58so I had quite a lot of single time a
19:00lonely time.
19:02>> Um
19:03so uh yeah I was drawing those figures
19:05and I was drawing with Cleopatra and and
19:08Julius Caesar and Maronet and uh and I
19:12loved it and all the attention went into
19:14obviously we had no idea how they would
19:16look like in their faces really. Maybe
19:18Marleti would know, but I would really
19:21like go into the details of of what they
19:23were wearing because
19:24>> that would actually Cleopatra would be
19:26Cleopatra because she would wear that
19:28kind of smelly butter on her head and
19:31would have
19:32>> g eyes and she would wear some kind of
19:34she would be half naked on a linen and
19:36all of these characteristics of her look
19:39would actually make who she is. And I
19:40think that's I think where where wants
19:42to come is that that's I guess uh my
19:45first real
19:47uh understanding how clothes can create
19:52a person, how you can become who you are
19:54thanks to what you wear.
19:57>> And what was the first piece of clothing
19:58that you became obsessed with as a child
20:01that you felt connected to your
20:04identity?
20:06I mean we were not very ready to wear
20:10clothes orientated at home. [laughter]
20:12It's it's um uh I mean as I grew up
20:16mostly at my mom's side and since she
20:18was working so often I kind of grew up
20:20with my grandparents that that amazing
20:22grandmother of 97 and and my grandfather
20:25who passed away the year before at 100.
20:27So I was very blessed having them very
20:29long in my life and we at least my
20:31brother and we stayed there at least 4
20:32days a week and they all both of them
20:35were children of uh colonists in the
20:38Belgium army.
20:39>> So who did the first world war and then
20:41my grandfather when Belgium got
20:42deliberated in in 44 he also entered the
20:46army and then fought the second world
20:48war and then he also entered as a
20:49colonel in the Belgium army. So it's a
20:52whole family full of military people.
20:54>> Mhm.
20:55>> And frivolous things as clothes is not
20:58really fitting into that concept.
21:00[laughter] So and um it's really it's
21:02all about dignity and respect and it's
21:04about family values. Uh very
21:07traditional, very um little bit ba also,
21:10but like it's would definitely not be
21:12done to show off. I mean like you're not
21:14showing off your wealth or who you are
21:15by how you wear or what you dress. It's
21:18it would be actually seen kind of
21:19vulgar, I think. in their in their
21:21world. So we we didn't grow up in that.
21:23The clothes were really something about
21:25like fitting in showing respect to the
21:28situation where you are.
21:29>> Yeah.
21:30>> Um and for the rest, yeah, just natural
21:34the natural need of of being warm and
21:36cold uh whatever like in the weather
21:39circumstances. So I don't think I ever
21:41really I mean besides his moments when I
21:44was drawing a bit of Cleopatraas I don't
21:47think the reality of clothes was really
21:49something that or the reality of fashion
21:51>> was very was very much there when I was
21:53a child. Um also I grew up in Bru which
21:56is a really beautiful city but it's like
21:58a provincial town in the middle of
22:00nowhere in Belgium. So it's you don't
22:02have a lot of confrontation with with
22:04with
22:05anything
22:07artsy or fashiony or cool or
22:09contemporary.
22:10>> So I think um also I became al I was
22:14also the the I was also the little
22:16brother. So obviously I only wore the
22:18things that my brother didn't wear
22:19anymore.
22:20>> Yes. for my whole life until and then I
22:22think the first time I really wore
22:25something consciously with lots with
22:27love and passion was I guess when I was
22:2913 14. I got um my auntie
22:34uh
22:35which which loved me I guess a lot uh
22:37decided to give me my very first pair of
22:40clothes which were really bought for me
22:42and so we went to H&M in BR
22:44>> and it was a black hoodie [laughter]
22:47was a black hoodie also because
22:48apparently I wasn't allowed to wear
22:50black when I was a child that was also
22:52not done [laughter]
22:53>> so black was like so I bought this black
22:55hoodie and I think I I think uh
22:57dissolved on my shoulder as most of my
22:59clothes [laughter] that I still
23:02We are nothing nothing wild. [laughter]
23:05>> That's so good. You just cuz you
23:08describe yourself as an annoying
23:10teenager and not a rebel always asking
23:12questions in class and your work has a
23:15lot of tension and risk embedded in it
23:18and which makes it very sexy. And do you
23:21live out danger through your creative
23:24work?
23:25Well, had a lot of moments at least like
23:28in white projects. I do remember there
23:30was a lot of moments where we
23:32>> where my stylist or sinagi we were like
23:35creating looks and being like are we
23:37really going to do this? [laughter] are
23:39we really going to show this tomorrow on
23:40the runway during Paris fashion week and
23:42I think that's also why uh I became who
23:45I became because I did go for the
23:46challenges and it's it's I never really
23:48went for the aesthetically
23:50uh accepted uh and I think that's also
23:53probably why I'm such a good fit at
23:54Marella for example because I think
23:56>> that's I don't think that Mart ever ever
23:58really was considering
24:00>> being accepted because of the the the
24:03beauty standards um so yeah no uh yeah
24:07we I like to challenge myself. I think
24:09I'm I'm a very easily
24:12>> bored person and uh and and I go quite
24:16fast and I think yeah and and I think
24:18this there there's also a Belgiumness to
24:20that. I feel that Belgium is not the
24:23most gorgeous country in the world and I
24:25said that to in some other interviews is
24:28that it's not like a given thing like
24:30the UK for example. UK. I mean like I
24:32mean my boyfriend is from here so we go
24:34walking in the the SA downs and it's
24:36like just like film sets all the time or
24:39everywhere you go is just gorgeous
24:41gorgeous gorgeous. Belgium has been very
24:44>> um industrialized and it's it's one big
24:47village. It's rainy. The UK is very
24:49rainy also but at least you have your
24:51sightes which are fantastic. Um so I
24:54mean I think when you grow up in Belgium
24:57you kind of have to find beauty in the
24:59in the hidden parts. Um and the
25:01unexpected you need to like find joy. I
25:04think that's also why the Belgium civil
25:06civilians are why why seralism is so
25:09Belgian know in this whole whole era and
25:12why also why the Belgian such a dark
25:14humor because you have to find
25:17the joys somewhere where they're not
25:19[laughter]
25:20>> where they not so uh so yeah I think I
25:24think that's the kind of thing I do also
25:25I think in my in my work um I try to
25:28find new perspectives on things and try
25:31to see
25:32>> things differently and Maybe I maybe get
25:35accepted. Maybe I'm very often not.
25:37[laughter]
25:39>> I love that your first choice of clothes
25:42was against the grain, even just the
25:44black hoodie. It's such a good start.
25:47And cuz you have a kind of self-belief
25:50in the way that gifted children have,
25:52but you you credit much of your career
25:55to an insecurity complex.
25:58Do you think that insecurity demands
26:00acts of confidence so that doubt can
26:04can't sabotage everything?
26:08>> Uh yeah. No. So if if insecurity pushes
26:13acts of confidence or needs acts of
26:15confidencees um
26:19I mean yeah I guess so I think you try
26:21to find to be accepted and seen and and
26:25you try to find uh ways of getting
26:28little compliments and then you are
26:30pushing
26:32your confidence completely. I am very
26:33confident in my work. Uh extremely
26:36ballsy
26:38[laughter]
26:39when I want to be and when I need to be.
26:41And it and it definitely comes from that
26:43moment for I think from that moment
26:45where I think I'm
26:46>> maybe not talented enough or not funny
26:48enough or not sexy enough or whatever
26:50enough. Um I compensate with confidence.
26:53>> Yeah,
26:54>> it's such an interesting idea. I've
26:56never heard anyone say that. But when I
27:00was thinking about you saying that, I
27:04thought it's like
27:06you take the action and then the
27:09confidence follows into it. But without
27:11the action, you're just stuck with the
27:14insecurity and that's paralyzing. So
27:16sort of action
27:18in fashion act without action there's
27:22literally nothing. We have to make
27:24things. So, it's a really good um method
27:28to get to move out of that kind of, you
27:32know, attack.
27:34>> Mhm.
27:35>> I hope I said something which makes
27:38sense. You you you have the the shrinks
27:40in your family [laughter] me.
27:46[laughter]
27:47>> No, it makes a lot of sense. I remember
27:49the designer Anthony Price saying, "If
27:51we had perfect bodies, we'd never bother
27:54to be designers." And
27:55>> I kind of agree
27:57that being a designer is like a way to
28:00disguise what you assume is going to be
28:03the critical gaze. And And how do you
28:06feel about your body?
28:08>> Well, no, after like not smoking for one
28:10month and a half. Not the best.
28:13[laughter]
28:14Not the best. I'm definitely not summer
28:16body beach ready. But I mean, I've never
28:18really been um Oh, I mean, what do you
28:22feel about body? Uh
28:24I'm very lucky to be honest. I'm very
28:26blessed with a body which is kind of
28:28fine without even having to do any that
28:30much. My metabolism is quite is quite
28:32good. I mean I'm 43 now. I have to start
28:36taking a bit more care of myself. But uh
28:39no and I'm tall and uh to be honest
28:42actually it's been it's been quite of a
28:43presence in my life because
28:46stupid things is is like in fashion like
28:48when I was a student in the anthrop
28:50academy
28:51>> I don't think I've ever I've ever was
28:54supposed to be in that school cuz you
28:55know the anthrop academy is a was is a
28:58very prominent school it's like
28:59>> central [snorts]
29:00you have here in London and and there's
29:01so many kids who want to go there and I
29:04started uh so there there's like I think
29:06there's like around 400 kids who try to
29:08get in every year and they only allow
29:1080. So obviously you go to the entrance
29:12exams and you have people from all over
29:13the world for three days competing
29:15against each other trying to get into
29:17that school. And I again like I came
29:19from Brouge from like a very Catholic
29:22family [snorts] which where fashion was
29:24never really a thing. I had no idea
29:25about anything besides maybe Carl
29:27Loggerfeld and that's kind of where it
29:28stopped. And I'm also there like trying
29:31to get into that school and and uh and
29:35strangely I'm part of the 80
29:37with no real reason. And uh and then I
29:41heard that they actually would always
29:42hire or like they would always accept a
29:46few students like two or three students
29:48um in the first year just because they
29:50would be good fitting models [laughter]
29:52because they would have had the size and
29:54the the height which would be helpful
29:56for fitting for the other years and
29:58>> and indeed that's what I've been I did
30:00for the first three years in academy. I
30:02was a fitting model all the time for
30:04everybody. I never really was in class
30:06and uh and I don't think they they they
30:10definitely didn't accept me. I think
30:11because I was
30:13a special talent. I mean I came with a
30:15portfolio of
30:17>> of bathrooms and and kitchens as my my
30:20studies I did before was interior
30:21design. So was I had graduated interior
30:23design and I had not I really didn't
30:25know anything about fashion. So they
30:27really I'm sure they they kind of were
30:29like okay this guy's going to be helping
30:30the other kids and uh and then he's
30:32going to fail. And there it was four
30:34years later for like first of the year.
30:37>> Yes. [laughter]
30:38That's so cool. That's fantastic.
30:40>> So it's a very accidental
30:42>> situation, but I would say my body
30:45>> has helped me uh become who I am
30:48>> strangely.
30:50>> That's nice. I love that version of
30:52events. It's It's great.
30:55>> But yeah, for the rest, I think right
30:56now I'm like I'm definitely not a
30:59fitness uh freak. I mean, I think I
31:01think I'm
31:02>> I think there's so much beauty in in in
31:04in
31:06perfection and uh and
31:09>> and there's so much poetry in
31:12in in marks and in in in lines and in I
31:15don't know it's very sensual I feel
31:17>> to feel flesh. Um so I mean I'm happy
31:20for people who love to go to the or love
31:23to sculpt their body and I'm also very
31:25happy for people like me who embrace a
31:28bit more who they are.
31:29>> Yes. Yeah. I agree.
31:31>> Still haven't handled too much
31:32[laughter]
31:35>> cuz before becoming the creative
31:37director at Margela, you were you were
31:40and you still are the creative director
31:42at Diesel and they I think they'd never
31:45had a creative director before. and you
31:48cancelled the diesel emblem of a
31:50Moheakan
31:51>> in a brilliant act of zero tolerance
31:54around its relationship, you know, the
31:56Native American people and what's
31:58happened to them. And did you ever have
32:01an attack of nerves about these changes
32:03which would have a big e possibly an
32:06economic impact
32:09>> constantly? Yeah, I was very um this
32:12very I mean I was very junior when I
32:14arrived to diesel and I was definitely
32:16not trained to take over a multi-billion
32:18lifestyle brand like this one. Um so um
32:22and I did the things with with a lot of
32:24idealism cuz I really felt like this was
32:27where the brand should go. Obviously,
32:30since they never have have had a
32:33creative director,
32:35they also didn't really knew how to deal
32:37with me and they just took my words for
32:40>> the rule. [laughter]
32:43So, I mean, there I go like cancelled
32:46their institutional logo that they've
32:48had for 30 years and and they just did
32:50it. Um, I think today they would have
32:52had they would have more meetings around
32:54it [laughter]
32:55>> and they would maybe debate it a bit
32:56more. But yeah, it was very difficult.
32:58And I mean, again, the thing is that
32:59this moakin was never really a moakin
33:02when it was designed in 80, I don't
33:04know, like somewhere in the '90s. It was
33:06designed by a Swedish um art direction
33:09team. It was designed as an East London
33:11punk. Um, and I have files. I mean, we
33:14have files about like this is a punk.
33:16Yeah.
33:17>> And obviously, I think the brand thought
33:20punk stood for revolutionary ways of
33:23thinking and for being different than
33:24the rest. And I think that's was very
33:26well fitting to the brand DNA. The
33:28problem was that that in the in those
33:31last 20 years of constant change of CEOs
33:34>> and constant change of directions, one
33:37of those CEOs had decided maybe that
33:39punk was a bit dated and it was cooler
33:41to call this guy now the moakin and then
33:43suddenly this punk became even though it
33:45didn't change the face it went from punk
33:47to Moakin and
33:49>> in 2020 indeed I don't think it's
33:51correct to have um a face of a murdered
33:57minority as uh as your
33:59>> your your emblem.
34:01>> So, we took that away quite fast. Um
34:03actually the moment [snorts] I I
34:05arrived,
34:06>> but it was it came together with a whole
34:08manifesto also, you know, like I really
34:10had um I mean one of the reasons why I
34:12also arrived at diesel was was because
34:15of um the social impact a lifestyle
34:17brand has um way more than luxury
34:21brands. I mean, um, I have so much more
34:23customers at Diesel
34:25>> than I have in Marella.
34:26>> Yeah.
34:26>> And I have so much more people from so
34:29much different backgrounds and and
34:31different wallets and uh different
34:33religions that I I would have in any
34:36kind of other luxury brand. So the real
34:39reason why I went to that brand of
34:40course was because the ethos of the
34:41brand was fitting, but also because I
34:44felt there was so many things, so many
34:47messages you can say.
34:49>> Yeah. Um and they go quite deep. So um I
34:54mean so I arrived with a cancellation of
34:58a moin but I also arrived with a whole
34:59manifesto about social and environmental
35:02sustainability. And I was look as long
35:04as I'm going to be the creative director
35:06here. This is what we stand for. We're
35:08going to try to reflect always society
35:09as we believe in uh we're going to show
35:12messages of love and and trust and we're
35:14going to work on on environmental
35:16fabrics. um things that were not really
35:20questioned before I arrived. Uh and
35:23everybody this manifesto was like three
35:24pages long and everybody was like, "What
35:25the Who's this guy? What is he
35:27doing?" But of course, again, as
35:28>> great,
35:29>> I was [laughter]
35:31that the one and only Cractor they ever
35:34had. They were like, "Okay, Carl
35:36Loggerfeld says this. Let's do it."
35:37[laughter] So, I just did it and they
35:39all went for it. And I think like we we
35:40were like from
35:42>> I think it's quite legendary, but I'm
35:43very proud of it. But I think when when
35:45I arrived there was 3% of the the cotton
35:48fibers of our denim which were
35:50regenerative uh recycled organic and
35:54within two or three years I think we
35:55arrived at 57 which is an amazing
35:58>> fantastic
35:59>> push I mean I'm not saying we're clean
36:01brand there's so much more we can do
36:02still but Rome wasn't built in one day
36:05and I think every day we are going
36:07better and better and we are pushing it
36:09to
36:09>> to make sure that yeah that we're trying
36:13to to make something which is
36:16sustainable for the future future
36:18generations.
36:19>> That's great. That's amazing.
36:22>> And you need that kind of blinkered
36:25fanaticism almost to to change a whole
36:28ancient system.
36:29>> I mean to be honest I don't believe in
36:31in in global brands anyway. I mean
36:33[laughter] have to have to say I mean I
36:35think the moment you of course you're
36:36you are supporting economies which which
36:39need money and and you support families
36:41and you are there's a there's households
36:44which get getting paid by you producing
36:46and in in in different countries but
36:48you're also abusing it. You're
36:49[clears throat] not really working on
36:50the on the the core issue. I really
36:52believe in and if in the longer term I I
36:55do hope that we're going to get more
36:56local and in the longer term I hope that
36:59we're going to wear our shirts again
37:00which are dissolving from from our from
37:03our elbows and
37:05>> we're going to buy this one nice blaze
37:06of Magela and we're going to wear it
37:08forever or or the rigid denim which is a
37:10bit more maybe less less comfortable
37:13than the comfort stretch denim but it
37:15has a way longer life.
37:16>> Yeah, I much prefer it. I hate the
37:18comfort in comfort stretch.
37:22for old people. Sorry. [laughter]
37:26>> And Renzo Roso is the owner of Diesel
37:29and also of Margela and many other
37:31companies and he has an incredible eye
37:34for the avong guard in design and it's
37:37quite unusual for an Italian businessman
37:39I think. And what's the glue in your
37:42relationship? You clearly have really do
37:45have something.
37:47I mean, I think I think we are quite
37:49similar in a way that we really have
37:50this straightforwardness and um and the
37:54curiosity
37:56um and
37:58uh yeah, I think like it's just a very
38:01honest, straightforward relationship.
38:03>> The guy is so curious. It's crazy. I
38:05mean, he's 70 years old and he has the
38:07sparkle of
38:09>> a teenager in his eyes and it's so
38:11beautiful to see that. I hope I I wish I
38:13would I could have that also in 30
38:15years.
38:16Um he's a very humble man. And also I
38:18remember like um my very first year at
38:22diesel I I had um the summer goodbye
38:25party in end of July and I invited all
38:28the teams to a little a little bar in
38:29Basano dela
38:32>> it's beautiful with the bridge
38:34>> very very very polo took his carriage
38:36over yeah
38:38>> yeah it's it's so pretty there so so
38:40deal is just close it's like next door
38:42to that
38:43>> and um so I'm inviting the team the team
38:44is like everybody like also my
38:46assistants and the interns or whatever
38:48And then and then Renzo hears that um I
38:52did a little this little rock and roll
38:54drink on on somewhere in the city and
38:56he's like and just called me up and said
38:58like would you mind if I invite just
39:00everybody to my place and I'm like
39:02>> oh wow
39:02>> of course I mean like so he just and
39:05that's like everybody I mean everybody
39:07were like 30 people the design studio
39:10>> but uh I don't [clears throat] see so
39:12many owners of big luxury groups
39:16inviting
39:17>> [laughter]
39:17>> juniors into their garden for and and
39:19and having somebody cook for all of
39:22them. So he's an amazing uh he's an
39:25amazing person has a very big heart
39:28>> and he's a very much I mean he believes
39:30in in in creativity
39:32>> some remarkable qualities especially in
39:35this period of fashion which is more and
39:38more corporately strangling and it's
39:41difficult for designers and
39:44>> yeah I mean
39:45>> and you're incredibly creative and
39:47you're also very organized and as you
39:49you said your father was a judge and
39:51your grandfather father was a colonel.
39:53And do you think you have a sense of
39:55grand military strategy in your DNA?
39:59>> It is definitely like uh growing up with
40:02a with a
40:04>> with a colonel. Definitely colors you.
40:06Yeah. You always you always think of
40:08plan A, B, and C.
40:09>> Uh there's always I mean I'm rarely uh
40:13unsettled by situation cuz I already
40:15know the answer
40:16>> somewhere. [snorts]
40:17>> So that's very helpful. And then and
40:19then I do have this kind of craziness
40:21also and this kind of explosive creative
40:25mind which is the nice contra
40:30I say opposites to it. So I think it's
40:32quite fine that I can go quite wild
40:35uh and then I know how to deal with it.
40:37Uh and and so
40:40>> so it helped me quite a lot in my
40:42career. M no it's a huge thing cuz
40:45everyone thinks it's about inspiration
40:47but that's the least of it it's
40:50>> without the order in fashion there is no
40:53product and um
40:55>> it's a massive structure I think also
40:57what that helped me a lot is that I
40:58think I I was independent or quite quite
41:01straight away
41:02>> and um I had my own little brand when I
41:05was 27 just moved to Paris and obviously
41:09as you know like when you have when you
41:10have your own brands and small brands
41:11you are not only creative director but
41:13you're also the head of development and
41:15you're the head of production and you're
41:16the head of PR and uh and you do your
41:18packaging you're sending and I think
41:21>> being aware of the whole 360 of what it
41:23actually takes to create a fashion house
41:26is I think the best tool you can have as
41:29a creator
41:31>> and then of course there's creativity
41:33and talent and the luck of meeting good
41:35people at a good moment it's it's a it's
41:37a full package deal also um but yeah I
41:41think it's veryant important to
41:42understand your teams, understand
41:44>> what they're going through so you can
41:47>> you can push them and you can
41:49>> Yeah, it's true.
41:50>> Respect them also.
41:52>> Yeah. I was thinking back about how I
41:55used to draw my own spec sheets, but I
41:57didn't even use a ruler. I just do a
41:59hand drawing and write all the
42:00measurements. And those things when
42:03you've done them
42:05well, you know how to ask for something
42:08for a start and you you know how to
42:10support the team and you know how to
42:13notice when something's wrong and and
42:16from one extreme to the other. You made
42:18the wedding dress for Chloe Sean who is
42:21somebody who really recognizes a good
42:24idea and uh ahead of most people. Do you
42:27ever get nervous about dressing a woman
42:30so admired and that everyone will be
42:32looking at in envy?
42:34>> How did that come about, that
42:35collaboration?
42:36>> I mean, I have to say I completely agree
42:38with you. I'm so honored.
42:40>> She she is one of the coolest people
42:43ever know and she's always welldressed
42:44and and and
42:45>> and I'm very blessed because she always
42:48um you know, I've never met her
42:49strangely in person. And I was supposed
42:51to meet her once in New York and then I
42:53got stuck drunk with a friends and I had
42:56to cancel [laughter]
42:58somewhere like I was I was invited at
43:00dinner place at at her place for dinner.
43:02I was like I'm so sorry
43:04>> I'm wasted. [laughter] But uh and then I
43:07we zoomed actually on her wedding dress
43:09fittings um cuz uh that happened like
43:13from I was somewhere else and then we
43:15were zooming together and she had to fix
43:16some things. But yeah, know she always
43:19she always since since the very
43:20beginning she's been wearing Y projects
43:22>> and um and then and then obviously
43:25Jeanto the Couture collaboration and and
43:28I hope she's wearing more and more
43:30things. I mean like I don't know if she
43:32wore Marella yet. [snorts] Uh but uh
43:35yeah I do get nervous uh of I'm very bad
43:38in in in celebrities I have to say. I
43:42think it's uh just because I just
43:44respect him always so much, you know,
43:46like I mean I always look up to them and
43:48then and then
43:49>> and I'm also a person which is very
43:51private I think as a as a fashion
43:54designer or in the industry. I'm not a
43:57person which is mingling a lot. [snorts]
43:59>> Yeah.
43:59>> Um so I don't get exposed so much to
44:03parties and and photos and free
44:07champagne. I mainly I'm in my
44:08countryside house with my friends and
44:10drinking beer or and have exact same
44:13friends since I've had 20 years ago. I
44:16mean like since school almost.
44:17>> So I'm um so it doesn't always drip into
44:21me that it doesn't always like I know
44:23that people want to wear what I design
44:26>> but I don't really I'm always quite
44:28quite surprised they wear who I am I
44:31[laughter] guess because I'm so much
44:33living in my little bubble. And then
44:34indeed like I mean I was like uh and so
44:39basically I'm at the Met Gala and
44:40Rebecca Ferguson is in front of me and
44:42I'm like fanangirling. I'm like Rebecca
44:44Ferguson is in front of me and I'm like
44:46and I'm like I'm Glen Mor and she's like
44:48I know I was like and she knows who I
44:51[laughter] am. So completely loving her
44:55>> and I just happen to time to me. I mean
44:57like I'm I'm and so I'm always like I
44:59mean now Metgara this Medgara was
45:01[snorts] dressing Rihanna and I mean I'm
45:03just there with my mouth open smiling
45:07[laughter]
45:08and she's also coming to me being like
45:10oh my god can you imagine what you've
45:11been going through since since the first
45:14time I've met I've met her like years
45:15ago like 15 years ago once. Yeah.
45:17>> Also, I dressed her for her last world
45:19tour, which is also like super long ago.
45:20But she's been wearing what I've been
45:23doing very faithfully since ever, but
45:26also never really met her.
45:27>> Yeah.
45:28>> Really properly. Uh we never became
45:30friends or something. And then and then
45:32she's she's giving like this whole
45:34>> palmas of my life and my work and I'm
45:36just like astonished
45:39>> uh that that that Yeah. cuz yeah I think
45:42I'm but it's a nice thing also to live
45:44really secluded to be to be honest I'm
45:46really enjoying being secluded I'm I
45:48really need it also because I think
45:49that's the way how I manage life I mean
45:52again I mean I'm
45:53>> I'm drawing nine collections a year I
45:55have like massive teams and I think
45:56there's moments of of being away and
46:00completely just like got brambles and uh
46:04I don't know like wax furniture and
46:07paint chairs is
46:09>> is my moment of completely detaching And
46:11then
46:12>> and then having a lot of energy and and
46:15and doing what I why I do this work for
46:18I really love doing fashion. I love my
46:20job.
46:20>> Yeah.
46:21>> For the teamwork and for the creative
46:23work and and obviously this whole
46:25celebrity thing is part of it sometimes,
46:28but it's uh it's not yet
46:32hasn't yet entered my my reality so
46:34much.
46:35>> I'm sure that's more relaxing.
46:39I I read that you love women's necks and
46:41a not too in yourrface sexiness. And
46:44what does that mean exactly?
46:48I mean, I think I think I can get very
46:51uh sexually [laughter]
46:53aroused by a finger.
46:56Honestly, even I just did I mean this is
47:01very personal just really what I like. I
47:03mean of course um I mean I'm working in
47:05a brand Diesel specifically which is
47:07very much about cheekiness and about
47:10sexuality and of course and I play that
47:11game very well and I enjoy it very much
47:13but I do think this
47:14>> than a brand like Marella which is the
47:18opposite which is like more about this
47:19austere sensuality.
47:21>> Um I mean I think the Magella woman is
47:24not uh sex on legs but she's very
47:26sensual and sexual and if she wants to
47:29be.
47:29>> So I don't know it's um it's more like
47:31this. I think there's something so
47:33beautiful about a movement in a neck.
47:36Um, I don't know. I just I just it's my
47:40I think I don't know. It's a silhouette.
47:42It's just like it's a it's very
47:44gracious. It's like
47:47there's a Yeah, it's like a wind. I
47:50don't [laughter] know. I just love
47:51necks. What can I say?
47:53>> Quite a medieval thing. like harking
47:55back to the uh nights and there's a
47:58sense of this kind of
48:00>> you know this kind of exquisite
48:03vulnerability and that could
48:06>> be chopped off at any second you know
48:09going back to your your original
48:12inspiration
48:14>> is there
48:17yeah
48:18>> yeah it it might be true that it is of
48:20course very life it's Yeah, it's it's
48:24the the knot of life.
48:27Something
48:28>> is I love all those details in 19th
48:30century novels to do with, you know, the
48:33wrist, the small of the back and the
48:36back of the neck. Those things are
48:39always so kind of pro provocative to
48:42think about
48:43>> the showing and the not showing.
48:45>> Yes. Yeah.
48:47>> And do you remember what you first wore
48:49to be consciously attractive to
48:51somebody?
48:54Oh, I mean I I mean it's not wearing,
48:57it's more the eyes. [laughter]
48:59>> Yeah, really.
49:00>> It's actually I mean uh I mean again in
49:04Belgium Bru I think you were very much
49:07um a victim of peer pressure in the way
49:10that everybody had to wear the exact
49:11same things in in in Bru. I mean it was
49:13like
49:14>> yeah I was like a little oxbow jacket
49:16and the diesel pants and uh and if you
49:19you would wear that you would be long.
49:21Um, so it was there was not a lot of
49:24individuality, but I do remember the I
49:27mean I guess it has to to do with this
49:28whole system of the eyes that I was
49:31saying that when my mother was putting
49:32makeup on that she she became this whole
49:34flamboyant person. She became this kind
49:36of legendary creature. And I think uh I
49:39I do look I mean I'm giving myself
49:41compliments now, but I I think I look
49:43quite similar to her. M and um and that
49:46eye thing was definitely a way how to
49:50get my first girlfriends when I was 16
49:5217. I was like dancing and and winking
49:56[laughter]
49:56and up off we went into the bush.
50:01[laughter]
50:02So, uh I was aware of that.
50:06>> And if you fancy someone and don't like
50:08something they're wearing, does it kill
50:10your attraction?
50:12>> I mean, I wish I would say the opposite,
50:13but yeah.
50:15>> [laughter]
50:15>> But yeah, that's true. I can't really
50:18date somebody who
50:20>> I mean, I'm not saying that I need to
50:22date a fashion minded person, but I
50:24think there needs to be um an awareness.
50:28And I think you can read so much about
50:31what people are wearing. And this can be
50:32just a t-shirt and a pair of denim, but
50:34just the fit of denim. The stretch is
50:36this is denim comfort stretch or not
50:38comfort stretch. I think so much you can
50:39get out of
50:40>> out of small things. And I think that's
50:42also people who work in fashion, we are
50:45trained to reach through clothes. And um
50:49>> yeah, I mean I do think there's a way
50:52more than clothes of course and and
50:53again as I'm saying I think I think I
50:56I'm not expecting my partners to be into
50:59fashion. They can be psychologists or
51:02philosophers or whatever, but like yeah,
51:04if it's really too off, I'm not sure I
51:07could go there. [laughter]
51:09Very superficial. I don't think so
51:12because they're just signals in the end.
51:15So,
51:16>> but for some reason fashion is labeled
51:18as superficial, which it isn't. It's
51:22incredibly deep. It's just on the
51:24surface, but it
51:26>> it's a protector and it's an informer
51:28and it's a language. So, uh, but, uh,
51:32no, it's always interesting
51:35because and also soon after you were
51:37announced at Margela, you, um, you
51:39launched the Glen Martins H&M
51:42collection, which sold out in minutes,
51:44and I I rushed up to the shop and I
51:47managed to get the last few pairs of
51:49track pants, and
51:51>> and then there was a box of boxer
51:53shorts, so I got those as well.
51:56>> You have them?
51:57>> They're so great. I I love them. And uh
52:00and they look so nice in my underwear
52:02drawer as well. And do you think
52:04affordable fashion is luxury?
52:07>> Uh I mean oh good question. It is is it
52:10what is luxury?
52:12>> No I don't think so to be honest. I
52:13think it's not luxury. I think luxury
52:15there's so many reasons to describe
52:16luxury. I think I think it can be
52:20multiple things but what it always has
52:21in common I feel is the exclusivity
52:24>> and exclusivity can
52:27indeed be by concept but uh and by
52:30design
52:32um but I don't think it's if you do if
52:35you produce it in masses it stays
52:36exclusive I think it can be unique in
52:38that moment it can be maybe in a unique
52:41way of thinking unique design but
52:43produced in masses [snorts]
52:45but again I'm not a specialist in this
52:47kind of discussions. But um no, I
52:49wouldn't say it's luxury. Um but I do
52:52think it's a luxury thing to be able to
52:56give that to so many people. And I think
52:58that's where
52:59>> because it was quite exclusive that I
53:01was able to give um this world of
53:05creativity that I had developed at Y
53:07project and to instead of closing it and
53:10putting it in in in a cupboard to
53:12disappear forever instead of closing
53:13this whole language and this whole
53:16brands to actually give it to everybody
53:20um who who I mean I mean it was sold out
53:22in 2 seconds indeed but like at least
53:24the platform was there and the
53:26possibility was there. So, I think that
53:28was a very uh luxurious um move and I
53:30think um only with H&M I could have done
53:33that.
53:33>> Yeah.
53:34>> So, um
53:36>> then of course it's like we're talking
53:38against each other because I was also
53:40talking about fast fashion and how
53:42difficult it is to to sustain this
53:46world. Um and that's of course a very
53:48much longer bigger debate. Um
53:52which is not only up to me. I think I
53:54think well at least the great thing is
53:55that what I was saying also about diesel
53:57at least it's good that there's people
53:59running those businesses with an
54:01awareness and H&LM I have to admit is
54:04very cuz obviously before I signed your
54:06contract we asked them for
54:08>> their sustainability measures and
54:09they're extremely aggressive there.
54:12>> Yeah.
54:12>> So um as for today they're doing their
54:15best. [laughter]
54:16>> Also good design makes something less
54:20uh disposable because people want to
54:22keep it. You don't
54:24>> wear it and then chuck it away. So
54:27>> that in itself is contributing to
54:31>> that's true. I mean yeah but of course I
54:34mean not all design is there for uh for
54:37wearability and I think that is also
54:39part of fashion. I think why I love
54:41fashion so much
54:42>> is because
54:43>> it brings joy and happiness mainly. I
54:45mean, of course, it brings joy and
54:46happiness with good designs like a sexy
54:48diesel denim which gives you great ass.
54:50Fantastic. But it's uh it's really there
54:52to be worn and to go to the office and
54:54take your bike,
54:55>> but then there's moments like there's a
54:57wide push collaboration or Glen M's
54:59collaboration with H&M or the artisal
55:01moments I have in Magella where there's
55:03no commercial value and there's no wear
55:05there's a commercial value, sorry, with
55:06with H&M, but there's no real wearable
55:09value because those clothes even at H&M
55:11were quite pushed. It was not not a
55:13thing you need to have every day to
55:16function.
55:17>> And the same thing happens with um with
55:19for example artisal shows and then then
55:22but then the function of that moment of
55:24that fashion moment is to bring joy and
55:26to make people dream and to make people
55:27happy and to uh it's entertainment and I
55:31think it always comes to that though. I
55:33think the whole secret of fashion is
55:36>> empowering people and making people
55:38happy.
55:38>> Yeah.
55:39I agree and it raises morale and having
55:42good morale means you can look out for
55:46each other and that's the most important
55:48thing to
55:50>> you know to notice what's happening to
55:53someone and maybe
55:56by their side you know when they might
55:58need you or they for you. And I read um
56:03I read that you were very amused when a
56:05new designer you hired at Diesel told
56:08you she'd heard two stories that you're
56:10a nightmare to work with and you're
56:12fantastic to work with. And what do you
56:14think you're like to work with?
56:17>> Those are such a good story. [laughter]
56:20[gasps]
56:20>> Should like they used to be our head
56:22designers at Diesel.
56:23>> Um British British duo super talented.
56:26Um, yeah, they were like very uh I just
56:29think it's fantastic when there's
56:30legends around you.
56:32>> Yes, [laughter]
56:34>> I think it's quite cute. I mean,
56:36>> so yeah, it's uh I really don't mind.
56:40>> But they were very contradictory. I
56:41mean, it's true. Like people really
56:43apparently people really think I'm a
56:44tyrant and then the other ones say I'm
56:46the best of the best and the funniest
56:47and the cutest. So I don't know where it
56:50comes from. It's a perfect combination
56:52especially to protect your privacy and
56:55give you
56:56>> give you the freedom to [laughter]
56:58>> because everybody would everybody maybe
57:00wants to come to Sahab and they're like
57:02maybe I shouldn't.
57:02>> Yes. [laughter]
57:03>> So they're like so I'm free to run off.
57:08>> Well, thank you so much Glenn Martins
57:10for being on Fashion Neurosis. I love
57:13what you do and it's been wonderful to
57:15talk to you. So thank you.
57:17>> Thank you so much for having me and I
57:19hope I'm understandable. I I have the
57:21sense I speak very fast always. But um
57:24>> it will be a [laughter]
57:26a challenge for you too.
57:28>> No, everything is very clear in your
57:31intention and your diction. So thank
57:34you.
57:35>> Well, thank you so much for having me.

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