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Gene Scheer In Conversation with Beck Weathers - Everest — Transcript

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  1. 0:00hi everyone thank you so much for being
  2. 0:01here tonight uh my name is Daniel Javi
  3. 0:04I'm the artistic and Community manager
  4. 0:05for upper parallel
  5. 0:07um and it's my great pleasure to welcome
  6. 0:09you to this conversation this evening
  7. 0:11um so just to give you a little context
  8. 0:13on about why we're here tonight if
  9. 0:15you're if you're not aware uh op is very
  10. 0:18excited to be presenting our next
  11. 0:19production which is called Everest and
  12. 0:21immersive experience which is opening
  13. 0:23next Friday February 3rd at z-space here
  14. 0:25in San Francisco
  15. 0:27um it's running through to February 12th
  16. 0:28and there's plenty of different
  17. 0:29performance times and plenty of great
  18. 0:31tickets available still
  19. 0:33um check out our website for those
  20. 0:34that's operaparallel.org Everest
  21. 0:38um so to start with I just want to tell
  22. 0:39you a little bit about the background of
  23. 0:41this production
  24. 0:42um so Ops Productions will always take
  25. 0:44you on a journey that's guaranteed
  26. 0:46um and this production itself has had
  27. 0:48its own Journey uh so when we started
  28. 0:52developing the product the sorry the
  29. 0:53concept of a graphic novel opera or
  30. 0:56combining the two mediums of graphic
  31. 0:57novels and Opera together we decided
  32. 0:59developing that Concept in 2012 uh with
  33. 1:02when our creative director Brian staff
  34. 1:04and Bill and conductor an artistic
  35. 1:06director of Nicole paymore uh
  36. 1:07commissioned a short Opera and did a
  37. 1:09presented a workshop performance of that
  38. 1:11using graphic novel images uh as part of
  39. 1:14the the background and the scenery for
  40. 1:16that Workshop
  41. 1:17um that that concept sort of was put to
  42. 1:19bed for a few years in 20 after 2012 uh
  43. 1:22but then it was brought back in 2020
  44. 1:24during the pandemic uh in 2020 we
  45. 1:26decided to to do an excerpt from Everest
  46. 1:29uh for our virtual Gala uh and we did a
  47. 1:3310 minute scene uh presented in the
  48. 1:35style of a graphic novel Opera and it
  49. 1:38was it was such a great hit uh people
  50. 1:40loved it and we we loved it as well uh
  51. 1:42that we decided to really to keep going
  52. 1:44and do the whole Opera and turn it into
  53. 1:46a feature-length animated film uh which
  54. 1:49we premiered in 2021 uh with the Dallas
  55. 1:51Opera
  56. 1:52uh and then you know as as Opera
  57. 1:55parallel likes to do we keep pushing
  58. 1:56ideas further and further and we we
  59. 1:58decided to use all the assets that we
  60. 2:00created for the film in 2021 and turn it
  61. 2:03into this immersive experience that that
  62. 2:05is opening uh next week uh so we using
  63. 2:08all the illustrations the recording uh
  64. 2:10and the performances from our incredible
  65. 2:12cast and putting them into a full 360
  66. 2:14degree projected experience with the
  67. 2:16audience in the middle uh and with
  68. 2:18special surround sound design so it
  69. 2:20feels like you're really there uh in in
  70. 2:22the middle of the action quite literally
  71. 2:23in the middle of the action
  72. 2:25uh so
  73. 2:27please do make sure you get your tickets
  74. 2:29for for that
  75. 2:30um but before any of that happened
  76. 2:32before any before before we even had
  77. 2:34that idea the story really started with
  78. 2:36our two guests who were here today
  79. 2:39um so it's my great pleasure to welcome
  80. 2:40uh virtually at least to Upper parallel
  81. 2:43these two guests to share their
  82. 2:44incredible stories
  83. 2:46uh so with us is Gene shear Gene Shear
  84. 2:50is a celebrated librettist Lyricist and
  85. 2:52songwriter uh and is of course the
  86. 2:54liberatist for the Opera Everest his
  87. 2:57other operatic Works include Therese
  88. 2:59Racine with Tobias picker Moby Dick and
  89. 3:02It's a Wonderful Life with Jake Hagee
  90. 3:04and Cold Mountain with Jennifer Higdon
  91. 3:07Gene was Jean also wrote the song
  92. 3:10American Anthem which has gone on to
  93. 3:12become a well-loved part of the
  94. 3:14Contemporary American Songbook
  95. 3:16and was also recited by President Joe
  96. 3:18Biden in his inaugural address
  97. 3:21ing Gene in conversation tonight is of
  98. 3:24course BEC Webbers
  99. 3:25Beck is a retired pathologist based in
  100. 3:28Dallas Texas and author of the book left
  101. 3:30for dead my journey home from Everest
  102. 3:33which describes his incredible
  103. 3:35experiences as a survivor of the 1996
  104. 3:37Mount Everest disaster
  105. 3:39Beck and Jean met while Gene was
  106. 3:41researching and developing the Libretto
  107. 3:43for the Opera Everest and backstory
  108. 3:46story forms one of the central
  109. 3:48storylands of the Opera
  110. 3:50so without further Ado uh please join me
  111. 3:53in welcoming Jean Shia and Beck weathers
  112. 3:56we started discussing subjects and I had
  113. 3:59been thinking about
  114. 4:01um the story of uh what happened on
  115. 4:03Everest in 1996 for a while of course I
  116. 4:06read the book as many people had because
  117. 4:08it was a big bestseller Into Thin Air
  118. 4:10John krakauer's book so I knew the
  119. 4:13outline of the story and I I posed the
  120. 4:16idea to Joby and he was instantly uh
  121. 4:20taken with the idea I think if Joby were
  122. 4:22here he would say that the first thing
  123. 4:24that sort of uh sort of uh caught his
  124. 4:28imagination was the idea of depicting
  125. 4:31through music what it's like to be in
  126. 4:33the death zone that and that can speak
  127. 4:35to what the death zone is but it's this
  128. 4:38place at a this very high altitude where
  129. 4:40it's it's uh you can't you there's
  130. 4:43almost no oxygen and it's very very hard
  131. 4:45to breathe and that kind of incredible
  132. 4:47effort to uh to move your body uh a few
  133. 4:51feet with something that Jacoby thought
  134. 4:53that music could really explore anyway
  135. 4:56so I we we uh soon sort of said on the
  136. 5:00idea of doing this story and
  137. 5:02um rather than I had the idea of rather
  138. 5:05than uh using John krakauer's book I
  139. 5:08mean there were other issues with that I
  140. 5:09don't think John cracker or spec can
  141. 5:11speak to this at this point uh at time
  142. 5:14wanted any more to do with uh the story
  143. 5:18um there's so there's I'll let Beck uh
  144. 5:20describe that if he wants
  145. 5:22um uh but so I decided to go around the
  146. 5:26country uh hopefully to go around the
  147. 5:28country and then go around the world
  148. 5:29through there wasn't Zoom but through
  149. 5:31telephone calls and that in-person
  150. 5:32interviews and interview as many
  151. 5:35um some of the survivors as I could and
  152. 5:38you know it's uh what happens is when
  153. 5:42when someone just phone call you get a
  154. 5:44phone call from someone with this crazy
  155. 5:45idea of doing an opera uh it's and then
  156. 5:48people are very very busy and uh it's
  157. 5:51it's very hard to get any sort of
  158. 5:53purchases as you say to get any uh yeah
  159. 5:55uh anyone to take you seriously but
  160. 5:58luckily Beck uh Beck was uh was open to
  161. 6:03the idea he lives in uh he lives in
  162. 6:05Dallas and it was from the Dallas Opera
  163. 6:07and um he was incredibly generous uh
  164. 6:11with his time and uh I went over to
  165. 6:14Beck's house and we started what turned
  166. 6:16out to be 30 hours of conversation in
  167. 6:18multiple visits and he allowed me to
  168. 6:20record him and much of what he said well
  169. 6:22his whole story but much of his even his
  170. 6:25language wove its way into into the
  171. 6:27Opera so uh and then the way it works is
  172. 6:31once I had back that I could call other
  173. 6:33people and said hey I got back and they
  174. 6:35said you talked to Beck weathers I said
  175. 6:36well then I'll talk to you too and so I
  176. 6:38uh Neil beitelman and Aspen I parked my
  177. 6:42car and I had an hour he said I'll give
  178. 6:44you 30 minutes and I and I parked my car
  179. 6:47in an hour a lot in an hour a lot and at
  180. 6:504 and a half hours later uh you know I I
  181. 6:53finished my interview with Neil
  182. 6:54beitelman who was one of the guides on
  183. 6:56the South Pole and Beck can speak to
  184. 6:58that story and then it went off from
  185. 7:00David Brashears and reaching out to Jan
  186. 7:02Arnold uh in New Zealand and uh uh and
  187. 7:06and and and others uh uh all the way
  188. 7:09through I got I got through to as many
  189. 7:11as I could but but this whole story
  190. 7:13started with uh Beck and his incredible
  191. 7:16generosity to me so without further Ado
  192. 7:18I should uh have a shut up and let back
  193. 7:20sorry to tell this story in fact I asked
  194. 7:23you I'll start with this what was it
  195. 7:24like when I called you to say I want to
  196. 7:26do this were you ever thinking this was
  197. 7:28going to be an Opera
  198. 7:30well I got to say of all the many things
  199. 7:32that came after 96 Everest uh and there
  200. 7:36were a lot of unusual appearances you
  201. 7:39know you have to meet the great the
  202. 7:41mighty and you go all sorts of places
  203. 7:42you can sort of expect in a story that
  204. 7:45captivates people's imagination the way
  205. 7:48that particular event did that those
  206. 7:51were sort of slow-ons that you would uh
  207. 7:53think would be perfectly reasonable but
  208. 7:55when you called me up
  209. 7:57that came totally out of the blue and I
  210. 7:59was absolutely intrigued just with the
  211. 8:02whole idea of it and of course I but we
  212. 8:06sat down and we started talking and it
  213. 8:10was such an easy conversation uh it was
  214. 8:13such a you know it's just like somebody
  215. 8:15you know in your entire life and you
  216. 8:17just sit there and you pour your guts
  217. 8:20out and you tell your story and you tell
  218. 8:22you what you're what you were thinking
  219. 8:24and what got you there and the the
  220. 8:26trials and tribulations the upsides the
  221. 8:29downsides the the horror and the and the
  222. 8:32jubilations and all the full gamut of
  223. 8:36emotions that this kind of a story
  224. 8:38entails uh and so
  225. 8:41uh
  226. 8:43I still didn't know how this was going
  227. 8:44to turn out and eventually you came back
  228. 8:47with a recording
  229. 8:49uh that so I could get a listen to how
  230. 8:53this was going to sound
  231. 8:54uh and I was so moved I basically kind
  232. 8:59of just shook me uh to the core and I
  233. 9:01and I just really uh
  234. 9:06had trouble holding it together it was
  235. 9:08such an emotional event
  236. 9:10hearing the story and done in such a way
  237. 9:12with such beautiful words and such
  238. 9:15beautiful music
  239. 9:17uh that I you know I thought it was
  240. 9:19it was a singular experience and then of
  241. 9:22course we got to see this
  242. 9:24uh when the Opera premiered uh in uh
  243. 9:29Dallas in 2015.
  244. 9:32and seeing it with the full staging and
  245. 9:36all the Magnificent voices uh and the
  246. 9:39great score that goes with it I was just
  247. 9:41overwhelmed and it really is one of the
  248. 9:44highlights
  249. 9:45of my last years and it just been
  250. 9:48wonderful and I got a chance to see into
  251. 9:52a world uh with such creativity and
  252. 9:55interesting people that was not part of
  253. 9:58my experience normally uh but it was you
  254. 10:01know it's just a fantastic experience
  255. 10:04and it turned out to be a great Opera
  256. 10:07well thank you so much I appreciate that
  257. 10:09and if it's if it's any of those things
  258. 10:11it's in large measure due to your help
  259. 10:13with it you know one of the things I
  260. 10:14think you all might be interested to
  261. 10:16know is that you know when I'm
  262. 10:18interviewing someone like backdoor when
  263. 10:20I'm when I interviewed back of course I
  264. 10:22wanted to know the story I wanted to
  265. 10:24know it from you know the person who
  266. 10:26experienced it and and I'm sure you
  267. 10:29actually all know the the basic outline
  268. 10:31of this story uh we can we can go over
  269. 10:33that some but we talked Beck and I talk
  270. 10:35a lot about
  271. 10:36um his work as a pathologist I asked him
  272. 10:41things I don't think he was probably uh
  273. 10:43because I don't you you never know uh
  274. 10:45when you're writing what is going to
  275. 10:47weave its way and what tributary is
  276. 10:49going to weave its way into this river
  277. 10:51that you're uh that you're you know you
  278. 10:53know Sailing sailing forth on and so
  279. 10:56like just one thing that sort of Pops to
  280. 10:57mind as I'm sort of casting my mind back
  281. 10:59on this was I remember I said I said
  282. 11:01well Beck tell me uh uh tell me about
  283. 11:05what you do uh when you're in the lab
  284. 11:07and uh um and he was explaining he said
  285. 11:11to me something which wound up being in
  286. 11:13the Opera when he said uh well you have
  287. 11:15to understand Gene when you're looking
  288. 11:17at cells and back help me out here you
  289. 11:19you can't see them unless you add dies
  290. 11:22to them to uh suit suit to sort of
  291. 11:25discern what is uh uh what's there and
  292. 11:29uh and it seems and not I wouldn't say
  293. 11:32all of a sudden but as I was doing my
  294. 11:34work it seemed like an incredible
  295. 11:36metaphor for Beck's life who as he was
  296. 11:40you know he Everest was the die that
  297. 11:43allowed him to see and recontextualize
  298. 11:45his life I don't want to put words in
  299. 11:46your mouth back so you can jump in at
  300. 11:48any time but you know I think that uh
  301. 11:51used with the interesting thing maybe
  302. 11:53you can speak to this is that you've
  303. 11:54said in in
  304. 11:57um I'm gonna bungle to this whatever's
  305. 12:00kind of saved your life in a way uh and
  306. 12:02not just the experience of it but it
  307. 12:04changed your life and maybe you could
  308. 12:05speak to that
  309. 12:07but well I think there's a tendency to
  310. 12:10look at Everest and see this as just a
  311. 12:13bunch of ciphers going up there trying
  312. 12:16to bag a mountain so they can pound
  313. 12:18their chest uh and you know
  314. 12:22declared themselves to the world but the
  315. 12:26reality of the individuals who are there
  316. 12:28is vastly more complex than any of those
  317. 12:32kind of simpleton stories would suggest
  318. 12:35uh because these are real people and
  319. 12:37every single one of them brings their
  320. 12:40own hopes and dreams and problems uh and
  321. 12:44searching for something uh to in their
  322. 12:48life to you know Find meaning
  323. 12:51uh and you know certainly in my own case
  324. 12:55every it was a long journey to get there
  325. 12:59this was not a one-year event to go in
  326. 13:03this Sunday go climb a mountain this was
  327. 13:05a very long period uh and it came out of
  328. 13:09a uh a fairly long lifelong uh
  329. 13:14depression and trying to struggle and
  330. 13:16stay alive during all those uh years
  331. 13:19uh and the exertion and the physical
  332. 13:24Drive
  333. 13:26was very healing and that really got
  334. 13:28expressed in my going into the mountains
  335. 13:32where just the sheer physical drive
  336. 13:34would was calming uh to me into my soul
  337. 13:39and to
  338. 13:41being able to put out the pain of the
  339. 13:45day-to-day existence and so much of what
  340. 13:49I you know was seeing when we were
  341. 13:51talking we were talking about the world
  342. 13:53that I exist in which is an artificial
  343. 13:55one in so many ways uh because what I do
  344. 13:59is an idiot savant skill that has no
  345. 14:02real
  346. 14:04uh counterpart in essence in the real
  347. 14:07world I I know what a human being looks
  348. 14:09like in three dimensions cut at five
  349. 14:12microns from birth to Resurrection in
  350. 14:15health and in thousands and thousands of
  351. 14:17diseases and that has absolutely no use
  352. 14:20whatsoever unless you do what I do
  353. 14:24uh and I think and it's all done with
  354. 14:28dyes and you know artificial cuts and
  355. 14:32that and it's in that world provides
  356. 14:35real answers but through a very
  357. 14:38artificial lens and so as we
  358. 14:42talked about this we were able to
  359. 14:45incorporate some of those images
  360. 14:48uh from just the my own life struggles
  361. 14:53and the day-to-day reality that I you
  362. 14:56know have as a physician and and then to
  363. 15:00weave those into the story and often all
  364. 15:04those conversations are very much
  365. 15:05represented uh in the in the Opera
  366. 15:09there's even things like I asked Beck
  367. 15:11about the most beautiful or these or
  368. 15:14Most Beautiful Moments and also these
  369. 15:16unusual moments in his climbing career
  370. 15:18because as Beck just uh suggested or
  371. 15:21just mentioned this wasn't a one-off he
  372. 15:23had climbed you know or many of the
  373. 15:26significant uh you know climbs in the
  374. 15:28world and he talked to me about the
  375. 15:31quiet in Antarctica and how he could
  376. 15:33feel his heart he could hear his heart
  377. 15:35because there's no sound there and I I
  378. 15:38thought that was a and seeing three sons
  379. 15:40in the sky this this kind of uh those uh
  380. 15:43what are they called it's in the Opera
  381. 15:45dog Sun dogs and they and that's sort of
  382. 15:49what was like the most beautiful this
  383. 15:51incredible image that he uh described to
  384. 15:53me in that woven uh into the Opera as
  385. 15:56well but when he's you know sort of
  386. 15:58giving him so that the audience and the
  387. 16:00Opera understands the context of this is
  388. 16:02again not a one-off that this is Beck's
  389. 16:04uh this is part of the Arc of his uh
  390. 16:07climbing uh climbing career the the uh
  391. 16:11it was you know one of the other things
  392. 16:12that we had to choose or I had to choose
  393. 16:15um you know what I I think if anyone's
  394. 16:17going to since there have been
  395. 16:18dramatizations I haven't seen the film
  396. 16:20but I know that there's a film now and
  397. 16:22stuff and Beck's story is clearly uh
  398. 16:24Beck and and Jan and Rob Hall's uh story
  399. 16:27are the are the are incredibly dramatic
  400. 16:29uh stories and I can see why I you know
  401. 16:32chose them and I can see why others have
  402. 16:34as well because they're so uh they're so
  403. 16:36compelling and and but there's but so
  404. 16:39many stories that of everyone who was
  405. 16:42there are very compelling and the story
  406. 16:44of Doug uh which is also Chronicles or
  407. 16:47cited in the Opera and his relationship
  408. 16:50to Rob Hall is something that was just
  409. 16:52sort of heartbreaking for those of you
  410. 16:54who don't know and you can speak to this
  411. 16:56because you knew him uh back but uh Doug
  412. 16:59was a climber who had climbed in 1995 uh
  413. 17:04he was a working-class guy a lot of the
  414. 17:07people who who were there were uh are
  415. 17:10sort of major professionals who could
  416. 17:14afford to take the time off and also the
  417. 17:17the 65 000 fee in the 1960s in the 1990s
  418. 17:20but Doug was a postal worker and he
  419. 17:22mortgages house and in 1995 he he got
  420. 17:25300 vertical feet from the uh top of
  421. 17:29Everest and they then he was turned uh
  422. 17:32turned around and uh um and uh one of
  423. 17:36the things one of my conversations was
  424. 17:38with Ed visters who is one of the great
  425. 17:40maybe the greatest BEC you can speak to
  426. 17:42this but he's certainly one of the
  427. 17:44greatest climbers in American history
  428. 17:45and in 1995 Ed was the uh guide for Rob
  429. 17:52Hall and it's like you know it's like uh
  430. 17:55you imagine you're on a team and you're
  431. 17:57and you've hired as your support person
  432. 17:59Michael Jordan and uh and when the
  433. 18:02decision was made to turn Doug around
  434. 18:04and this is actually not in that this is
  435. 18:07not in this is actually not part of the
  436. 18:08Opera but it's kind of interesting thing
  437. 18:09but Doug's story is part of the Opera
  438. 18:11but what I'm about to tell you is not
  439. 18:12but I Ed beasters told me this when I
  440. 18:14had my long conversation with him in
  441. 18:16Seattle
  442. 18:17they were 300 this is 1995 one year
  443. 18:20before uh this The Climb that we were
  444. 18:22talked that's in the Opera and uh
  445. 18:25they're 300 feet from the top 300
  446. 18:27vertical feet from the top and uh
  447. 18:31Rob looks at Ed and says can he make it
  448. 18:34and Ed went like this we have to turn
  449. 18:36him around and it got him back to uh and
  450. 18:39Ed told me they got him back to the
  451. 18:40tents on Camp four uh just within a
  452. 18:43whisker and now it's a year later and
  453. 18:46Rob has called uh uh Doug has sorry Rob
  454. 18:49has called Doug multiple times and said
  455. 18:52you can do this you can come back I
  456. 18:54won't charge you the extra fee just get
  457. 18:55yourself here and I'll get you up there
  458. 18:57you know I'll get you up the mountain
  459. 18:58and he clicks off of the line and Rob
  460. 19:01comes over to him and and says something
  461. 19:03in his ear and all you know all of a
  462. 19:05sudden he's back in the line and uh they
  463. 19:08wind up you know tragically uh pushing
  464. 19:10past the turnaround time of two o'clock
  465. 19:13they don't get to the top of the
  466. 19:14mountain until four and then of course
  467. 19:16all hell breaks loose when the weather
  468. 19:17turns bad so there's uh there's there
  469. 19:20there are there are these all these
  470. 19:22stories are sort of converging
  471. 19:25um but uh it's well one of the things
  472. 19:27which I found just to jump back to back
  473. 19:29I mean one of the things that just kind
  474. 19:30of Bloom be away it was when I was
  475. 19:32asking Beck about you know because Becca
  476. 19:34and you can speak to this spec had an
  477. 19:36issue with his eyes which
  478. 19:38um uh he wasn't expecting and all of a
  479. 19:41sudden he wasn't able to see
  480. 19:43um uh when the sun was at a certain
  481. 19:45height in the sky and Beck you can
  482. 19:47describe that but uh when the sun wasn't
  483. 19:50at the certain height you could see
  484. 19:51beautifully and so he was on the balcony
  485. 19:53of Everest which is a this place that's
  486. 19:55before the the summit but this beautiful
  487. 19:58place again Beck was there I'll let him
  488. 20:00describe it and he's talking about he's
  489. 20:02having this great day like you know he
  490. 20:04had he didn't Summit he didn't get to
  491. 20:06the top but it was a it was an
  492. 20:08incredibly beautiful experience one of
  493. 20:10the most beautiful things uh that you'd
  494. 20:12ever seen back why don't you can't why
  495. 20:13do you hand the Baton to you and you can
  496. 20:15describe what it was like to be on the
  497. 20:16balcony and uh and that experience
  498. 20:19okay well uh I had radio keratotomy done
  499. 20:24in Dallas because uh
  500. 20:28Mountain weather and Eyeglasses simply
  501. 20:30don't mix at all and I had too many
  502. 20:31experiences where the glasses that I'd
  503. 20:34be wearing would be totally covered in
  504. 20:36ice and I little couldn't see anything
  505. 20:39other than my feet uh and so I had this
  506. 20:43done hopefully to improve my ability to
  507. 20:47work in that environment but it turns
  508. 20:50out and I didn't know this that nobody
  509. 20:53in Ophthalmology in the United States
  510. 20:55knew this they were couple of letters to
  511. 20:58the editor that said that you know we've
  512. 21:01just learned that people go to very very
  513. 21:03high altitudes they vision changes
  514. 21:06dramatically uh and it's a metabolic
  515. 21:09injury to the front of the eye of course
  516. 21:12I didn't know that but I hadn't noticed
  517. 21:14that when I got to Everest my vision was
  518. 21:16changing uh based on the altitude and we
  519. 21:19started up on the summit day uh and as I
  520. 21:22got higher and higher my vision went
  521. 21:25progressively worse until uh till in the
  522. 21:30middle of the night when we got to you
  523. 21:32know make a Traverse I couldn't see the
  524. 21:35mountain at all I couldn't even see my
  525. 21:36own Footprints uh and so I knew just
  526. 21:41because I had experience as a kid with a
  527. 21:43pinhole camera that if the sun gets
  528. 21:46fully out your pupils go down so far
  529. 21:49that everything is infinitely in focus
  530. 21:51and I thought well no problem I'm just
  531. 21:53going to wait till the sun comes up and
  532. 21:55when it gets bright enough I don't care
  533. 21:56how bad had my eyes are I'll be able to
  534. 21:59see
  535. 22:00and so sure enough the sun started to
  536. 22:03come up my vision improved I go up to
  537. 22:07the balcony which is at 27 500 feet
  538. 22:10uh and I tell Rob I've got this serious
  539. 22:13problem with my vision
  540. 22:15uh but I think if I just wait a little
  541. 22:18bit it's going to be good enough that I
  542. 22:20can go ahead and finish climbing up and
  543. 22:22he said okay you got 30 minutes you can
  544. 22:25do it in 30 minutes you're good to go if
  545. 22:27you're not you ain't climbing and I
  546. 22:30agree to this and I stay on the balcony
  547. 22:32but and when the sun comes up it is just
  548. 22:34a gorgeous day it is warm uh it is sunny
  549. 22:39the wind is not blowing you're looking
  550. 22:42at the most magnificent views a human
  551. 22:44being that even
  552. 22:45imagine and his wildest dreams and as
  553. 22:49the whole world stretches out underneath
  554. 22:51your feet and I'm just sitting there as
  555. 22:53happy as I can be and I certainly didn't
  556. 22:55want to go down and sit in a tent I
  557. 22:58thought you know they'll go up they'll
  558. 23:00do their thing when they come down I'll
  559. 23:02come down with them but right now it
  560. 23:05doesn't get any better than this this is
  561. 23:07just beautiful but one of the things
  562. 23:09that happened everyone is that the storm
  563. 23:11that came it came from below isn't right
  564. 23:14back it did not come from above and
  565. 23:15that's why this was this beautiful day
  566. 23:17you're looking up the sky is beautiful
  567. 23:19but I think it came off of the uh it
  568. 23:21came out came out from below and uh and
  569. 23:24of course by you know by four o'clock it
  570. 23:25was getting bad and by five or six it
  571. 23:27was it was really bad and then then all
  572. 23:30hell broke uh broke loose so I have a
  573. 23:33question
  574. 23:36you don't know what a thunderstorm looks
  575. 23:39like uh when it's beneath you and so
  576. 23:41you're sitting there in Clear Blue Skies
  577. 23:43and when the thunderstorm Rises up to
  578. 23:46the level you are it just completely
  579. 23:49rolls across the space of a couple of
  580. 23:51minutes and you go from being in warm
  581. 23:54sunny Pleasant conditions to barely
  582. 23:56being able to hang on to the mountain at
  583. 23:58all it is just blowing you uh without
  584. 24:01such force and the driving ice into your
  585. 24:04face that you can't see
  586. 24:06I mean I mean for for everyone who's
  587. 24:09tuning in here and only watching the
  588. 24:11Opera this is an incredible opportunity
  589. 24:13to ask Beck about this but uh it's
  590. 24:15portrayed in the Opera but of course
  591. 24:17Beck as is the title of his book called
  592. 24:19Left for Dead
  593. 24:20um Beck was left for dead twice on the
  594. 24:22mountain once on the on the South Pole
  595. 24:24and uh and as Beck said
  596. 24:27um he understand I think there was a the
  597. 24:29person who first saw you he was a
  598. 24:31physician wasn't he back he was a I
  599. 24:33think who uh who examined you and said
  600. 24:36made the triage decision to leave you
  601. 24:38and then of course you got up and uh and
  602. 24:41then then but wanted is this is this is
  603. 24:44just too good a chance back for everyone
  604. 24:45not to hear it for me wrong your own
  605. 24:48words but like what that moment was like
  606. 24:51when uh I mean you told me it was very
  607. 24:54moving to me I tried to portray it in
  608. 24:55the Opera but I want to hear from you
  609. 24:57about when was you know all those hours
  610. 25:00later you're laying you know in a coma
  611. 25:03and you've you've and you wake up what
  612. 25:05what happened
  613. 25:07to the expense it's the best and I know
  614. 25:09and you even told me you don't know
  615. 25:10exactly but what's your what's your take
  616. 25:13on it what's how would you experience it
  617. 25:15that you go out of your memory of it
  618. 25:17well I went into hyper coma
  619. 25:21it was
  620. 25:23there's no there's no thought there's no
  621. 25:25dreams there's there's just absolutely
  622. 25:27uh a void and something in that day and
  623. 25:31maybe it's the sunshine forming on the
  624. 25:34suit which is designed to pull in the
  625. 25:36sun uh
  626. 25:38I have other explanations I don't know
  627. 25:40the answer but late that afternoon
  628. 25:43[Music]
  629. 25:46for the audience here how many hours had
  630. 25:48you been out
  631. 25:4915 hours unconscious
  632. 25:51and I'd been examined but during the
  633. 25:54time that I was unconscious and they
  634. 25:56determined that there was no way that I
  635. 25:58could live uh since nobody ever had in
  636. 26:01this circumstance so I was triaged to
  637. 26:03die
  638. 26:04uh and late that afternoon I managed to
  639. 26:07wake up
  640. 26:09and I realized that I
  641. 26:12I was somewhere
  642. 26:14on that mountain I had no idea where I
  643. 26:16was
  644. 26:17uh and that I was pretty sure that
  645. 26:20nobody was going to come out there and
  646. 26:22help me because I was if they were going
  647. 26:24to do it that had been there they would
  648. 26:26have done it and if I did not move then
  649. 26:29I was certainly going to die and
  650. 26:33it was a rather
  651. 26:36clear
  652. 26:37but and Searing experience because I
  653. 26:42really could see directly in front of me
  654. 26:44my wife and children
  655. 26:46and it sounds so cliched
  656. 26:50uh but I would put to you the notion
  657. 26:53that if you absolutely knew and I did
  658. 26:56but I was going to be dead within an
  659. 26:58hour
  660. 26:58because the sun is 15 degrees above the
  661. 27:01Horizon and moving down at 15 degrees an
  662. 27:03hour that when the sun hit it was over
  663. 27:07yeah what would you think about if you
  664. 27:10have one hour to live and you know that
  665. 27:12you're going to be dead at the end of
  666. 27:13that hour
  667. 27:15what do you think about it and that's
  668. 27:16what I thought about and it absolutely
  669. 27:18drove me to my feet and I didn't care
  670. 27:23whether I fell and could not I just was
  671. 27:26going to move until I physically
  672. 27:28mentally
  673. 27:30spiritually could not move any longer
  674. 27:34and I was driven
  675. 27:36uh to stagger and stumble into the
  676. 27:39direction of the wind and that's how I
  677. 27:41kept my going in One Direction because I
  678. 27:44thought the camp had to be up when so I
  679. 27:47just kept the force of the Wind on my
  680. 27:49face
  681. 27:49and even though I couldn't see more in
  682. 27:51about six feet
  683. 27:53I could just keep moving as long as I
  684. 27:55kept my face into the wind and then I
  685. 27:58walked into the camp yeah it's just it's
  686. 28:00just an incredible story and one other
  687. 28:03aspect of the Opera just to share with
  688. 28:05you with you all is that um you know one
  689. 28:07of the things that I learned about
  690. 28:09mountain climbing and about Everest in
  691. 28:11particular is that it it resembles
  692. 28:14baseball in this one way which is that
  693. 28:16it's uh the history of everyone who
  694. 28:18played is because always on the field
  695. 28:21like you know what for those of us who
  696. 28:23love baseball we're thinking about like
  697. 28:25you know that catch that Willie Mays
  698. 28:27made when I was at Candlestick Park in
  699. 28:29the 60s or or these you know you just
  700. 28:31you're thinking about and then Babe Ruth
  701. 28:33and all the history and the thing about
  702. 28:35Everest is that um more than almost
  703. 28:37anything uh Everest the history is all
  704. 28:41there because the um those who perished
  705. 28:44on Everest are still there and that was
  706. 28:46one of the sort of points of departure
  707. 28:48for the telling of the story is that as
  708. 28:50this action is taking place people are
  709. 28:52walking through through
  710. 28:54the the remains the bones the the dust
  711. 28:59of those who came before and it started
  712. 29:02in 19 well the first uh expedition was
  713. 29:061920
  714. 29:07four but they did a survey expedition in
  715. 29:101922 and in 1922 some Sherpas passed
  716. 29:14away in that in that thing and then of
  717. 29:16course Mallory Irvine and Mallory
  718. 29:18famously passed away in uh 24 in that on
  719. 29:21that expedition and uh and then and then
  720. 29:25then many others over the course of the
  721. 29:27piece so as you'll see and when you're
  722. 29:29seeing if you haven't seen it before
  723. 29:30there's a chorus
  724. 29:33that um it's it's it I I wouldn't I
  725. 29:37don't know if Greek chorus I don't know
  726. 29:38what that you know if that really
  727. 29:40conjures what it really is but you you
  728. 29:42there is there seem to be like the
  729. 29:44spirit of the mountain or the spirit of
  730. 29:46the some sort of omniscient spirit and
  731. 29:48at the end of the piece you do you
  732. 29:50discover that they are though uh they're
  733. 29:53everyone who died on Everest and when
  734. 29:55Rob and Doug die the way their deaths
  735. 29:58are announced as they become part of the
  736. 30:00chorus and they come to get back uh
  737. 30:04because but Beck has other ideas and as
  738. 30:07he just described he's walking uh away
  739. 30:10from uh away from death and into uh uh
  740. 30:14uh to to the Salvation of the camp and
  741. 30:16to be ultimately to be reunited with the
  742. 30:18world and his family so it's uh um you
  743. 30:22know it's quite a I think it's a
  744. 30:23dramatic telling but I think it's one of
  745. 30:24the things that that I wanted to portray
  746. 30:27and Joby wanted to portray was to have a
  747. 30:29sense of the history of this uh of this
  748. 30:32mountain I mean for those who are
  749. 30:34there's so many wonderful books I mean
  750. 30:35uh Beck's book John's crack hours book
  751. 30:38talk about these 96 Expedition but
  752. 30:41they're a wonderful
  753. 30:42um uh book I read a lot of books about
  754. 30:44this the whole experience and uh there's
  755. 30:48one that's called into the silence which
  756. 30:49is about the 1924 uh about Mallory and
  757. 30:53Irvine which is really a fantastic book
  758. 30:56um uh I forgot who wrote it but it's
  759. 30:58it's a we can we can sort of post it but
  760. 31:00it's a great another great book about a
  761. 31:02really contextualizes how this all began
  762. 31:04as a sort of response to World War one
  763. 31:07and how these these guys who had
  764. 31:09experienced World War One were uh uh
  765. 31:12couldn't stop there's some inner clocks
  766. 31:15that needed some sort of simulation and
  767. 31:17then when the Chinese government opened
  768. 31:19up to bet they were able to start uh
  769. 31:22trying to go uh for the tallest mountain
  770. 31:24in the world so that's that's what so
  771. 31:26the history of this is also sort of
  772. 31:27woven into the piece it's not we don't
  773. 31:29hit it too heavy I don't think in terms
  774. 31:31of it's not a history lesson but it's
  775. 31:33it's also it's part of it my in large
  776. 31:36measure mostly this is about the the I
  777. 31:39always say operators are really
  778. 31:40emotional archeology that's kind of what
  779. 31:42they are it's not it's not uh telling
  780. 31:44you the we're not we're not doing a
  781. 31:46documentary uh if you want to know what
  782. 31:48happened the blow by blow read Beck's
  783. 31:51book that'll that'll tell you what
  784. 31:52happened Blow by blow what we tried to
  785. 31:54do is use the Majesty of music and the
  786. 31:58human voice to uh describe what it felt
  787. 32:01like uh and uh and so that's it I will
  788. 32:04ask you this back you know this has been
  789. 32:06you obviously this is an incredibly
  790. 32:07famous story now it's almost it's become
  791. 32:10part of the cultural you know fabric of
  792. 32:13uh the world at this point and the world
  793. 32:16I mean all over all over the world what
  794. 32:18I'm not asking about the Opera I'm not
  795. 32:20I'm not I'm just saying what what do we
  796. 32:23not get and what what can I guess
  797. 32:25obviously we can't know what it's like
  798. 32:26to be in the experience you had but what
  799. 32:30has uh the world got wrong about what
  800. 32:33happened there
  801. 32:35well I I think they don't generally get
  802. 32:38a clear notion of just who these
  803. 32:41individuals were right uh it's easy to
  804. 32:44paint this and kind of broad stereotypic
  805. 32:48ways without being able to
  806. 32:51uh see Doug
  807. 32:54uh see yasco a number
  808. 33:00Rob and his
  809. 33:02dying call to his wife I mean the sheer
  810. 33:05Humanity of these people is is you know
  811. 33:09these are people you you know
  812. 33:12these are good human beings these are
  813. 33:15caring individuals these are not a bunch
  814. 33:18of
  815. 33:19Adrenaline Junkies who got to oh I I
  816. 33:22really yeah
  817. 33:24a mountain I mean in my own case I was
  818. 33:28turning 50. the likelihood that I was
  819. 33:31actually going to summon was pretty dead
  820. 33:33gun low the by that time the summit
  821. 33:36ratio was maybe 15 percent of
  822. 33:40individuals each year who tried with at
  823. 33:42that point could manage to get up there
  824. 33:45and that's all covers you talked to the
  825. 33:4850 year old guy that's not going to be
  826. 33:51in the top tier right who's going to hit
  827. 33:54the summit first you don't go there to
  828. 33:55do that you go to experience it you go
  829. 33:58to be part of the mountain be part of
  830. 34:01its history be part of the
  831. 34:03uh Buddhist culture uh you know this
  832. 34:07this just whole Mythic of this place
  833. 34:10and each of the individuals who are
  834. 34:12there are real people
  835. 34:15uh
  836. 34:16yeah I I really felt that about about
  837. 34:19everyone that I've talked to and and and
  838. 34:22and also just even intuitive like with
  839. 34:24Rob I mean I also think there was a
  840. 34:26class aspect of this too I think Rob's
  841. 34:28you know desired to help I mean Rob
  842. 34:31Rob's help desire to help I'm sorry uh
  843. 34:34to help Doug get up uh even without him
  844. 34:36bringing him back without having him pay
  845. 34:38the full fee and and so forth there was
  846. 34:41he really I mean the road to the hell is
  847. 34:44truly paid with good intentions I think
  848. 34:46he really wanted to Rob to uh sorry he
  849. 34:48was
  850. 34:49fixing the fiddling with the names Rob
  851. 34:52wanted to help Doug get to the top and
  852. 34:54it and it was motivated by the best
  853. 34:56um you know best intentions and the you
  854. 34:59know the reason why Jan wasn't there for
  855. 35:00those of you don't know Jan was a doctor
  856. 35:02and she normally went on these
  857. 35:04Expeditions but she was of course
  858. 35:06pregnant with their first child and uh
  859. 35:09um so who has since uh summited
  860. 35:13Kilimanjaro
  861. 35:18she's now whatever 1996 what she's 24 20
  862. 35:22what a 27 I guess right and uh you've
  863. 35:25got to be going on 27. yeah yeah and uh
  864. 35:29so she
  865. 35:31um yeah right and so she actually I
  866. 35:33don't think she's going to do these uh
  867. 35:34deaths on uh uh the uh tracks but she
  868. 35:39did actually because her her father had
  869. 35:41done it and she wanted to do it so it's
  870. 35:43uh she's very much around and uh and
  871. 35:47that's that's what's happened so uh well
  872. 35:49um maybe we should uh I don't know
  873. 35:51should we uh open it up to questions or
  874. 35:53there was a clip you want you want to
  875. 35:55play a clip for everyone or or yeah
  876. 35:58I could have done it in the context but
  877. 36:01I think the clip that that's going to be
  878. 36:02shown is a from this incredible graphic
  879. 36:05novel uh uh version of the Opera and
  880. 36:09this is uh this is as if I believe it's
  881. 36:12uh I'm correct this is the section where
  882. 36:14we we're back and I we talked about
  883. 36:16earlier when Beck described being on
  884. 36:18this on the on this on the balcony of
  885. 36:21Everest when he he couldn't uh go
  886. 36:24further but rather than being depressed
  887. 36:26about it he was taking in the beauty of
  888. 36:28of all that was around him on this on
  889. 36:31this gorgeous day
  890. 36:32so play this little clip and then I
  891. 36:34asked him some questions yeah I'll play
  892. 36:36this and then we'll open it up to
  893. 36:37questions if uh as some folks are
  894. 36:39already doing if you have some questions
  895. 36:40feel free to put them in the chat
  896. 36:42um and I will ask them ask them for you
  897. 36:45[Music]
  898. 36:52[Music]
  899. 36:59[Applause]
  900. 37:01[Music]
  901. 37:03every Pig
  902. 37:08[Music]
  903. 37:21foreign
  904. 37:23[Music]
  905. 37:53was referencing before is The Souls of
  906. 37:56the mountain and that's how they're
  907. 37:57portrayed in in uh op's version as the
  908. 38:00these sort of ghostly figures that
  909. 38:03surround surround the characters as and
  910. 38:05they they sing the chorus Parts in in
  911. 38:08our version
  912. 38:09um in the original version just which
  913. 38:12we're not we're doing here but uh about
  914. 38:15the end all of the names of everyone
  915. 38:17who's died on Everest are projected on
  916. 38:19the set and then we add
  917. 38:21um Rob's name and and Doug's name and
  918. 38:24you can see that this these hundreds of
  919. 38:27names of those who are still there so
  920. 38:30there was some there was some talk of
  921. 38:32trying to to bring Rob's body down
  922. 38:35because they know where it was and
  923. 38:37that's another whole story and Jan said
  924. 38:38just leave it you just just it's no one
  925. 38:41should risk their lives going up there
  926. 38:42in order to do that so that's what
  927. 38:45happened so anyway I'll be quiet and
  928. 38:47answer any questions uh so I think the
  929. 38:49first question we had was from Evelyn uh
  930. 38:51for Beck uh what was the other
  931. 38:53near-death experience that happened on
  932. 38:55Everest I think uh Gene mentioned there
  933. 38:56was two times that that you were left
  934. 38:58for dead uh
  935. 39:04well actually they were
  936. 39:06uh three times because when Anatoly
  937. 39:09bookra came out and brought in the
  938. 39:11Fisher climbers that were part of the
  939. 39:13Huddle uh he also uh basically declared
  940. 39:19that yasko and I were Beyond saving and
  941. 39:23so we were left at that point then when
  942. 39:26the doctor out of our group came and
  943. 39:28pronounced that we were Beyond salvation
  944. 39:31uh that was the second time and in the
  945. 39:36third time I managed to get to camp and
  946. 39:41they placed me in a tent alone
  947. 39:45uh to die because they were absolutely
  948. 39:48certain I could not possibly live
  949. 39:50through the night and nobody wanted to
  950. 39:52have any part of having to experience
  951. 39:54that
  952. 39:55and so I
  953. 39:57wound up uh
  954. 40:00had some very difficult circumstances in
  955. 40:03the tent alone uh abandoned because
  956. 40:07they knew I was dead and so they were
  957. 40:10very surprised when once again the
  958. 40:13following morning I was still there
  959. 40:15and uh I guess I just
  960. 40:19you know ever ready bad or you just die
  961. 40:21hard I just did was not going to give up
  962. 40:23on that so uh it is there were multiple
  963. 40:27opportunities that things could have
  964. 40:29changed but in the grand scheme of
  965. 40:31things uh you know I
  966. 40:34came back and life is good and the
  967. 40:41being able to come back to my family
  968. 40:44after that I always say that if you
  969. 40:47can't learn something from by dying
  970. 40:50you're a really slow study
  971. 40:55a good heart
  972. 40:57thank you back
  973. 40:59um the next question we have is from
  974. 41:01Stacy as for Jean um how did you choose
  975. 41:04how many people's stories to portray in
  976. 41:07the Opera she says the Opera feels so
  977. 41:09balanced with the focus on the two main
  978. 41:10story lands but was there another
  979. 41:12person's story you were considering
  980. 41:13including
  981. 41:15oh that's a great question and you know
  982. 41:17it's the reality of Opera and how many
  983. 41:19soloists you're allowed to have for a
  984. 41:23particular production that's just the
  985. 41:24dimensions of the budget and all those
  986. 41:26things come into it um uh
  987. 41:30I think well Scott Fisher's you know uh
  988. 41:34story is also there's so many dramatic
  989. 41:36stories that there that are taking place
  990. 41:38uh because all these people who passed
  991. 41:41away and who were were doing all of uh
  992. 41:44doing their best I mean I think
  993. 41:47um it's why Scott Fisher's
  994. 41:49Widow and her his daughter came to the
  995. 41:52production in Everest and they were very
  996. 41:54they were very moved and they weren't
  997. 41:56upset that he wasn't portrayed actually
  998. 41:57they just liked the entire uh show I was
  999. 42:00very gratified by that but um I think I
  1000. 42:04think that that is
  1001. 42:05um you know I I don't know I I I don't
  1002. 42:09really think about in this particular
  1003. 42:10case I don't think about what we missed
  1004. 42:12I just think about what we did um but
  1005. 42:14there are other stories and again there
  1006. 42:16are other they're beautifully chronicled
  1007. 42:17in a lot of the books
  1008. 42:19um uh about her people's uh people's
  1009. 42:22lives there so
  1010. 42:25thank you
  1011. 42:26uh the next question is from Michael uh
  1012. 42:29I think this one is uh aimed at Beck uh
  1013. 42:32he says I have heard reports of people
  1014. 42:34passing by dying climbers in order to
  1015. 42:36reach the summit as it's typical of me
  1016. 42:39thought how Callison and Humane I'm
  1017. 42:41beginning to change my mind but how does
  1018. 42:43one justify leaving a human to die
  1019. 42:46it's a it's a big question
  1020. 42:49well it is a big question in some cases
  1021. 42:52it is just that it's it's callous and
  1022. 42:55it's horrible and it shouldn't happen
  1023. 42:58and uh morality
  1024. 43:02doesn't stop at a given altitude and and
  1025. 43:05you can't
  1026. 43:07you know forgive uh actions where they
  1027. 43:11could have actually helped somebody but
  1028. 43:14part of this is there are certain things
  1029. 43:15that we know to be true that aren't
  1030. 43:18uh for instance that one of the reasons
  1031. 43:21that I was left to die was because it
  1032. 43:25was absolutely known as a truth that
  1033. 43:28once you go into this stage of
  1034. 43:29hypothermic coma nobody has ever lived
  1035. 43:31through it
  1036. 43:32and so to a certain extent that's
  1037. 43:35self-fulfilling so if you have somebody
  1038. 43:37that's in that level of extremist and
  1039. 43:41you leave them they die
  1040. 43:43uh and so you know you have no idea if
  1041. 43:48really if somebody could come back if
  1042. 43:50you'd helped them out but but you can't
  1043. 43:54also realize just how exhausted how
  1044. 44:00known how mentally
  1045. 44:04you know
  1046. 44:05paralyzed you become with the hypoxia
  1047. 44:09and the drive uh it is becomes very in
  1048. 44:14some ways very animalistic
  1049. 44:16uh and
  1050. 44:18you hope
  1051. 44:20that in
  1052. 44:21bad moments that you'll rise above that
  1053. 44:25uh you hope that you know if you get
  1054. 44:28into horrible circumstances that you'll
  1055. 44:30behave as an honorable person but you
  1056. 44:33don't always know that you don't know
  1057. 44:35until you put yourself in that
  1058. 44:37circumstance and then you see how you
  1059. 44:38respond
  1060. 44:40and we would always like to think that
  1061. 44:42we would not be somebody
  1062. 44:43who would
  1063. 44:45uh not do
  1064. 44:48you know for others what you would want
  1065. 44:50done for you
  1066. 44:51uh
  1067. 44:53but you really don't know until you put
  1068. 44:56yourself out so far
  1069. 44:58and you feel so
  1070. 45:01vulnerable
  1071. 45:02in these moments uh part of it you know
  1072. 45:07people don't want to take you back
  1073. 45:09because the effort to do so endangers
  1074. 45:13your life that's right that's right
  1075. 45:16I was going to say that you know on it's
  1076. 45:19as Beck just said I mean clearly it's
  1077. 45:21it's it it's it's like a fingerprint
  1078. 45:24each one is different each situation is
  1079. 45:26different
  1080. 45:27um in
  1081. 45:29Everest Rob Doug dies and Rob is very
  1082. 45:34strong you know professional climber and
  1083. 45:36has incredible will to live and he lives
  1084. 45:38even longer and and as one of his last
  1085. 45:40conversations he says send someone up
  1086. 45:42for me in the morning I'll make it
  1087. 45:43through the night which of course is not
  1088. 45:46true but they do I I don't know this is
  1089. 45:48not part of the Opera but the the base
  1090. 45:50camp they do send they take some
  1091. 45:52thermoses and they head up to try to get
  1092. 45:55to they know where he is
  1093. 45:57but they can't make it and at some point
  1094. 45:59they turn around because they're gonna
  1095. 46:01as Beck just said they're gonna be
  1096. 46:02risking their own lives to save uh Rob
  1097. 46:06who is uh you know uh Mama certainly
  1098. 46:09dead at that point so it's it's there's
  1099. 46:11a I'm sure there's there's a calculation
  1100. 46:13that's happening it was happening uh on
  1101. 46:16that day about who they uh you know who
  1102. 46:19who could be saved and I bet Bucharest
  1103. 46:22you know was you know how many I mean
  1104. 46:25book reps that's a whole other story too
  1105. 46:26remember his I mean which I won't go
  1106. 46:29into now but you know after rushing down
  1107. 46:32the mountain because he wasn't using
  1108. 46:34oxygen uh and then and then going going
  1109. 46:37to the South Coal I mean he could he
  1110. 46:39could save only as many people as he
  1111. 46:41could save and that was also because of
  1112. 46:42you know maybe because of how he climbed
  1113. 46:44uh so that there's these things sort of
  1114. 46:47like they Cascade on one another but
  1115. 46:49it's uh it's complicated and each
  1116. 46:51situation is different I think it's just
  1117. 46:54my take from living with this for so
  1118. 46:56long
  1119. 46:58thank you
  1120. 47:00um so the next question uh it's from
  1121. 47:02Bruce and uh she mentions and I'm not
  1122. 47:05sure who this person is but there is
  1123. 47:07another person on the zoom apparently
  1124. 47:08who has been on Everest
  1125. 47:10um and maybe they would like to answer
  1126. 47:11this as well as quick
  1127. 47:13um but uh she asks what for those who
  1128. 47:17have been on Everest what is what is the
  1129. 47:18motivation to go like what what drives
  1130. 47:21you to go and I think this is something
  1131. 47:23that uh is sort of the big question of
  1132. 47:25the Opera as well like why why do people
  1133. 47:26do this what drives you to go to Everest
  1134. 47:30Pippa can you unmute yourself
  1135. 47:35yes okay golly this is so amazing
  1136. 47:40um first of all my story is a little bit
  1137. 47:43quite a lot different actually
  1138. 47:45um I had always dreamed of going to
  1139. 47:48every space camp I didn't actually want
  1140. 47:50to go any higher
  1141. 47:52um and I have two sons and we were
  1142. 47:54coming back from New Zealand and we'd
  1143. 47:55had our shots and we were ready to go uh
  1144. 47:59they were quite quite little but anyway
  1145. 48:00uh I was then called back to a job uh at
  1146. 48:05the national ski Academy and I thought
  1147. 48:07it doesn't matter we can do this anytime
  1148. 48:10and
  1149. 48:11um shortly after that I was diagnosed
  1150. 48:14with MS
  1151. 48:15I ended up in a wheelchair and um my
  1152. 48:19sons kept saying well we're going to go
  1153. 48:22to Everest Base Camp we're going to go
  1154. 48:23to Aerospace never night lifting really
  1155. 48:25I don't think so and they discovered
  1156. 48:29something uh called a Trail Rider
  1157. 48:31and uh in 2006
  1158. 48:36um uh they gathered a team together and
  1159. 48:40they took me to the base camp without
  1160. 48:42Everest at the Trail Rider which is the
  1161. 48:46a cross between a rickshaw
  1162. 48:48and a wheelbarrow
  1163. 48:50and we got to base camp uh but having
  1164. 48:54said that
  1165. 48:55uh I feel a bit silly telling this this
  1166. 48:59story however I understood so much what
  1167. 49:02you were saying is the challenge it's
  1168. 49:04the people it's the journey
  1169. 49:07uh since my life changed going into a
  1170. 49:11wheelchair uh everything
  1171. 49:14is
  1172. 49:15off before Everest or after Everest
  1173. 49:18because it was Monumental in our lives
  1174. 49:21and a huge Challenge and
  1175. 49:24um an amazing accomplishment and it also
  1176. 49:27it was the team that got me there and it
  1177. 49:30was tough because of the altitude
  1178. 49:33and uh they did they could have actually
  1179. 49:36gone by themselves they didn't have to
  1180. 49:37push push me
  1181. 49:39um so yeah that was my Everest Base Camp
  1182. 49:42true yeah but anyway nothing compared
  1183. 49:45with I'm loving everything you're saying
  1184. 49:48uh I've followed you so much
  1185. 49:51um and I think the Opera is going to be
  1186. 49:53amazing we're very lucky because we're
  1187. 49:55coming uh next week so
  1188. 49:57thank you wonderful thank you that's
  1189. 50:01brilliant thank you did you want to
  1190. 50:03respond back
  1191. 50:05well that that is once again when I was
  1192. 50:09the point that I was making about the
  1193. 50:12individuality of every story of the
  1194. 50:14people who go there this is not some
  1195. 50:16monolithic uh event and some often when
  1196. 50:20it's portrayed in in television uh they
  1197. 50:24they flatten all of this out so that you
  1198. 50:27don't have any idea of the kind of
  1199. 50:30struggles that people have and what they
  1200. 50:33put and what they project uh into the
  1201. 50:37significance of their own struggle to do
  1202. 50:39this because I know a lot of people who
  1203. 50:42summoned Everest and for the most part
  1204. 50:44nobody gives a rat's patootie about any
  1205. 50:47of that you know you may think it would
  1206. 50:49be a big deal but it's not uh that that
  1207. 50:54most all of this is done not for
  1208. 50:58somebody else it's done for the struggle
  1209. 50:59that you have in your own life and your
  1210. 51:02own view of
  1211. 51:05what you're capable of accomplishing and
  1212. 51:09and what kind of person are you when you
  1213. 51:11do this that you know that as a I was
  1214. 51:14trying to State this earlier and
  1215. 51:17probably did make it clear is you
  1216. 51:20climbing you get harder and harder and
  1217. 51:23harder
  1218. 51:24goals uh and each time you put yourself
  1219. 51:29out to a place that you've never been
  1220. 51:32before and each time that you do it you
  1221. 51:34don't know how you're going to react and
  1222. 51:37that is part of the mystery of doing it
  1223. 51:40is just to see
  1224. 51:42what who am I what kind of person am I
  1225. 51:45well if things get difficult
  1226. 51:47uh and it gets hard uh
  1227. 51:51am I going to be a good person
  1228. 51:54am I going to be who I would like to be
  1229. 51:57or am I what I fear I might be
  1230. 52:03and so that that's that's the struggle
  1231. 52:06that you have yeah
  1232. 52:09thank you back
  1233. 52:11anyone else having been uh to base camp
  1234. 52:14or
  1235. 52:16climbed it I won't tell much
  1236. 52:20[Music]
  1237. 52:22um so we we do have a world I'm gonna
  1238. 52:25really about 10 more minutes or so we
  1239. 52:26don't want to keep our guests too late
  1240. 52:28they are on in later time zones than we
  1241. 52:30are in in San Francisco
  1242. 52:32um but uh before I ask this next
  1243. 52:35question
  1244. 52:36um if anyone does have questions and
  1245. 52:38can't use the chat or is having
  1246. 52:39difficulty using the chat um I will open
  1247. 52:41it up for folks to just ask questions
  1248. 52:43verbally as well
  1249. 52:45uh one more question here uh from Cheryl
  1250. 52:49um for Beck and she asked uh do Everest
  1251. 52:52alumni so to speak uh tend to get
  1252. 52:55together frequently or do they tend to
  1253. 52:57hold the experience more in an isolated
  1254. 52:58memory
  1255. 53:00uh they hold it nicely in memory this is
  1256. 53:03this is not an a get together with a big
  1257. 53:07rah-rah and like I said you do this for
  1258. 53:10individualistic reasons yeah that yes
  1259. 53:13it's selfish uh anybody that goes there
  1260. 53:17and puts this puts themselves at risk
  1261. 53:19and the and in so doing also risks other
  1262. 53:24individuals your family
  1263. 53:27uh your wife your kids uh
  1264. 53:31and all of the other people that love
  1265. 53:33you it's a selfish event there's no way
  1266. 53:36to get around that but you also at some
  1267. 53:39level
  1268. 53:40you feel driven to do it
  1269. 53:42uh and whether that's healthy or not
  1270. 53:46uh it's it I think it is common within
  1271. 53:50the individuals that do this I don't
  1272. 53:52care how laid-back or our Shucks they
  1273. 53:55may be these are driven people now
  1274. 54:02um would anyone else like to ask a
  1275. 54:03question uh you can if you if you would
  1276. 54:05like to just unmute yourself and ask a
  1277. 54:07question to either of our guests a
  1278. 54:09little more time
  1279. 54:12and say one of the things about doing
  1280. 54:14these projects the the project like this
  1281. 54:16is that you know it is
  1282. 54:19um you know who are the people you meet
  1283. 54:21along the way and uh this has been a
  1284. 54:23particularly uh wonderful project of
  1285. 54:25course uh Nicole uh conducted the
  1286. 54:28premiere and uh so and that's how I got
  1287. 54:31to know and become such good friends
  1288. 54:33with Nicole and colleagues and that
  1289. 54:35we've done a number of projects
  1290. 54:37including recently the English national
  1291. 54:38Opera that she just conducted but of
  1292. 54:41course getting to know Beck uh and uh
  1293. 54:44Neil beidleman is uh who's not portrayed
  1294. 54:46in the Opera but gave me lots of
  1295. 54:47information he's uh one of these and and
  1296. 54:50others um it's just been a real a real
  1297. 54:53joy and just you know it's it's it's
  1298. 54:55funny I feel the same way back when you
  1299. 54:57said it was easy to talk like we talked
  1300. 54:59before the the zoom talk then it's like
  1301. 55:01it's like like an old friend who just
  1302. 55:03sort of resume the conversation with and
  1303. 55:05uh it's uh it's it's been one of the
  1304. 55:08nicest uh things about that and of
  1305. 55:10course working with Joby we're doing
  1306. 55:12another Opera right now for doubt for
  1307. 55:14Dallas Opera actually for based on the
  1308. 55:16diving bell on the butterfly which is
  1309. 55:18going to open in the fall
  1310. 55:19and uh it's all because of what happened
  1311. 55:21and and also because Beck kind of opened
  1312. 55:23the way for this without Beck this never
  1313. 55:25would have happened I really use Beck as
  1314. 55:28leverage as I said at the beginning of
  1315. 55:29this to get to the other people and I
  1316. 55:31needed all that information uh in order
  1317. 55:33to do it and so you just need that one
  1318. 55:35person who's uh sort of opens the door
  1319. 55:37and in this particular project it was
  1320. 55:40certainly back so uh it's great to see
  1321. 55:43him again and to see the piece happening
  1322. 55:46here and it's also happening in London
  1323. 55:48uh a stage version a
  1324. 55:50um concert version with the BBC Symphony
  1325. 55:52and the BBC chorus is happening uh next
  1326. 55:55June and Nicole is conducting so that'll
  1327. 55:58be wonderful as well so we're it's been
  1328. 56:01a it's been a really a happy project one
  1329. 56:03I'm really proud of and uh and also it's
  1330. 56:05been a lot of fun
  1331. 56:07so any other questions
  1332. 56:10um there's a couple in the chat and I
  1333. 56:11have one quick one myself personally
  1334. 56:13that I would love to ask
  1335. 56:15um I'm just going to jump in and throw
  1336. 56:17that one in there quickly and it's full
  1337. 56:18back
  1338. 56:19um so your story has been told in so
  1339. 56:21many different mediums across across the
  1340. 56:23years the films and the books and and an
  1341. 56:26opera and now an immersive Opera uh what
  1342. 56:28what is that like I can't even imagine
  1343. 56:30what it must be like to see your own
  1344. 56:33story on you know presented in in so
  1345. 56:36many different ways
  1346. 56:38well it's it started off as a very
  1347. 56:40interesting media experience because
  1348. 56:43this was the first time that a story had
  1349. 56:46ever broken worldwide on the internet uh
  1350. 56:51there were no reporters or cameras or
  1351. 56:53anything up there and so these people
  1352. 56:55learned about this it was being followed
  1353. 56:58in real time uh on the Internet by real
  1354. 57:02time reporting and so in that sense it
  1355. 57:04was a very unique uh introduction to the
  1356. 57:08world of the story by a totally new form
  1357. 57:13of uh reportage uh and it's been in a
  1358. 57:18dozen books three movies uh and of
  1359. 57:21course the most unique one of all which
  1360. 57:24is the Opera
  1361. 57:26and now it's uh it wound up as a graphic
  1362. 57:29novel Opera uh which is takes it Beyond
  1363. 57:33uh the my expectations for any of this
  1364. 57:36and I'm just
  1365. 57:38I love to see in other people's worlds
  1366. 57:41and the creativity and the Artistry and
  1367. 57:44the Magnificent voices uh and so I was I
  1368. 57:48would listen to the Opera again today
  1369. 57:51via the graphic novel and I was uh each
  1370. 57:57time I see it in different modes I see
  1371. 58:00something new uh because some when I saw
  1372. 58:03it initially I was overwhelmed by the
  1373. 58:04Magnificent staging just the physical
  1374. 58:07presence and then I heard it in concert
  1375. 58:10and then listening more to the voices
  1376. 58:12and then you see it in the graphic novel
  1377. 58:14uh and you're able to to follow a story
  1378. 58:19better than you can in either the other
  1379. 58:21Medias uh presentations and of course
  1380. 58:25I'm sitting there with my big headphones
  1381. 58:26on and the voices are such that I can
  1382. 58:29the person is sitting in my lap as I
  1383. 58:32listen to them sing and it's just so
  1384. 58:34magnificent and like I said each time it
  1385. 58:38I watch it
  1386. 58:40it grips me it is so emotional
  1387. 58:46thank you Becky yeah and and I think in
  1388. 58:49the immersive version it's going to be
  1389. 58:50you know even more so that you'll really
  1390. 58:52feel like you're you're in in the in the
  1391. 58:55experience with with you which is going
  1392. 58:57to be very exciting
  1393. 58:59um I have uh one more question here uh
  1394. 59:03about about the Opera itself and about
  1395. 59:05new Opera and how often um there are
  1396. 59:08changes that happen during uh during the
  1397. 59:10process after a number of performances
  1398. 59:13um and this person's wondering were
  1399. 59:14there changes in Everest uh after the of
  1400. 59:16the first few performances
  1401. 59:18um and if so what changed and why
  1402. 59:22um the the odd changes do happen in
  1403. 59:24operas
  1404. 59:25um uh but not that much changed in
  1405. 59:28Everest in terms of the score and the
  1406. 59:30libretto I might be missing something
  1407. 59:33but I don't think
  1408. 59:34um uh this actually
  1409. 59:37um this this piece is pretty much the
  1410. 59:41way it was I think that is the material
  1411. 59:44is pretty much the way it was on opening
  1412. 59:45night
  1413. 59:46um but that doesn't you know when things
  1414. 59:48need to be changed we changed them we
  1415. 59:50felt that this one was solid within with
  1416. 59:52um uh It's a Wonderful Life which we
  1417. 59:54opened in Houston that Jake and I did
  1418. 59:56Jake Hagee and I did we changed it we
  1419. 59:59changed it significantly by the time it
  1420. 1:00:01got to San Francisco and now it's kind
  1421. 1:00:04of codified in the in the place we like
  1422. 1:00:05in but the English national Opera just
  1423. 1:00:07did is was the the version the this
  1424. 1:00:10there was a different production but the
  1425. 1:00:12material was what we had in San
  1426. 1:00:14Francisco we did three Productions to
  1427. 1:00:16get it to the West there are there there
  1428. 1:00:19are certain things in terms of the
  1429. 1:00:21staging and the uh the production uh I
  1430. 1:00:24think that I mean the director who
  1431. 1:00:25directed this Leonard Folia says it
  1432. 1:00:27takes three times to get it you know
  1433. 1:00:28sort of the way you really really want
  1434. 1:00:31it uh even if the production is the same
  1435. 1:00:33just so that the lighting and and the
  1436. 1:00:35staging and everything is really uh is
  1437. 1:00:37on point and I think so there were some
  1438. 1:00:40small changes but with Everest now we
  1439. 1:00:41were pretty happy uh with it there might
  1440. 1:00:44be forgetting some small change that we
  1441. 1:00:46made but this one was pretty much uh uh
  1442. 1:00:49we were happy with it when it opened and
  1443. 1:00:51we're still happy with it it's a very
  1444. 1:00:53solid solid work solid type 70 minutes
  1445. 1:00:56of Opera which is the perfect length I
  1446. 1:00:58think
  1447. 1:01:01so I'm going to combine two questions
  1448. 1:01:02here both for Beck
  1449. 1:01:04um uh the first question was uh for Beck
  1450. 1:01:07whether you're still uh mountaineering
  1451. 1:01:10um and also uh who who rescued you or
  1452. 1:01:13was there someone who rescued you from
  1453. 1:01:15the tent when uh like from uh when you
  1454. 1:01:19when you were left there
  1455. 1:01:21well let me start with the second
  1456. 1:01:23question first uh when I managed to wake
  1457. 1:01:26up in the tent still alive uh the camp
  1458. 1:01:29was pretty much deserted there were only
  1459. 1:01:31three other people there beside myself
  1460. 1:01:34but one of them was John krakauer and I
  1461. 1:01:37managed to get his attention and he
  1462. 1:01:40called over Pete Athens and Todd
  1463. 1:01:42Burleson who are both professional
  1464. 1:01:44guides and they helped me down about a
  1465. 1:01:48quarter of the way uh toward camp three
  1466. 1:01:51and then the IMAX
  1467. 1:01:53uh film crew David beshears and Ed
  1468. 1:01:58visters uh
  1469. 1:02:01were there to take Dogwood back into
  1470. 1:02:03Camp too uh then we hit the next day we
  1471. 1:02:06had the world's highest helicopter
  1472. 1:02:07rescue so it was we were doing a lot of
  1473. 1:02:09interesting things in the short period
  1474. 1:02:11of time but basically I walked out on my
  1475. 1:02:14own legs uh I'm just uh
  1476. 1:02:18still in pretty decent condition
  1477. 1:02:20considering the degree of damage uh I
  1478. 1:02:24don't do mountaineering anymore I wasn't
  1479. 1:02:26holding my paws up but the degree of
  1480. 1:02:29frostbite that I suffered was uh pretty
  1481. 1:02:32severe it took off the center part of my
  1482. 1:02:35face both of my hands uh and the like
  1483. 1:02:38and uh so I can't stand the uh the
  1484. 1:02:44insult of cold
  1485. 1:02:45uh
  1486. 1:02:47the way I used to be able to do so and
  1487. 1:02:50so I that really is not the risk reward
  1488. 1:02:53on that is just uh not worth considering
  1489. 1:02:56all right
  1490. 1:02:58it's very unsettable
  1491. 1:03:01um all right I'm gonna throw it over for
  1492. 1:03:03one more question and then we do have to
  1493. 1:03:05let our guests go if there is any final
  1494. 1:03:07final questions
  1495. 1:03:10uh for the group from the group
  1496. 1:03:12yeah
  1497. 1:03:14do you still keep in touch with Matt and
  1498. 1:03:16Casey
  1499. 1:03:19uh I'm not
  1500. 1:03:22talked to him in a fair while uh he's
  1501. 1:03:27obviously an extraordinary human being
  1502. 1:03:30uh and we did have an opportunity to
  1503. 1:03:33spend several times together
  1504. 1:03:35uh after that uh he became quite famous
  1505. 1:03:39uh throughout the world and famous
  1506. 1:03:42certainly within Nepal uh and he was
  1507. 1:03:48and when I talk about this story
  1508. 1:03:51my statement generally is the of all the
  1509. 1:03:55people involved he's the one that is
  1510. 1:03:57most impressive to me uh and
  1511. 1:04:02some of this is is kind of funny we went
  1512. 1:04:05together to see the IMAX film Everest at
  1513. 1:04:09the Fort Worth Science Museum uh and of
  1514. 1:04:12course we're sitting there and as
  1515. 1:04:15you know hey pictures of him flying the
  1516. 1:04:19uh helicopter uh one of the only people
  1517. 1:04:22in the world that could do such a thing
  1518. 1:04:25and somebody was out front with a toy
  1519. 1:04:27helicopter uh flying it around and I'm
  1520. 1:04:31thinking to myself these people have no
  1521. 1:04:33idea that they're you know standing next
  1522. 1:04:36to such an extraordinary
  1523. 1:04:39human being uh and one of the things
  1524. 1:04:43that I remember so particularly about
  1525. 1:04:46that because I was I really you know was
  1526. 1:04:49very grateful to him uh and he you know
  1527. 1:04:53and later visits and stuff he said you
  1528. 1:04:55know
  1529. 1:04:56uh you're one of the very few people
  1530. 1:04:58that ever really thanked me for saving
  1531. 1:05:00them
  1532. 1:05:01uh I guess we just expect
  1533. 1:05:04that our heroes are always going to be
  1534. 1:05:06there
  1535. 1:05:08and for me he was and he's just an
  1536. 1:05:11amazing person
  1537. 1:05:12uh and so
  1538. 1:05:14uh Madan is just a
  1539. 1:05:17you know
  1540. 1:05:19I I you can't give him enough credit
  1541. 1:05:23uh for what he did just with not just
  1542. 1:05:26there but in all the Myriad times that
  1543. 1:05:30he helped people out and save people and
  1544. 1:05:32rescued people and that's uh and that's
  1545. 1:05:35true for so many of the individuals
  1546. 1:05:37whose lives work is to do exactly what
  1547. 1:05:40he does every day
  1548. 1:05:42so no
  1549. 1:05:44foreign
  1550. 1:05:48I think we do need to wrap it up here uh
  1551. 1:05:51I think I thank you all for
  1552. 1:05:53um for joining us this evening the last
  1553. 1:05:55question that I see here was about the
  1554. 1:05:56recording of this this program which we
  1555. 1:05:58will be sharing on our website
  1556. 1:06:00um on our preparallel.org on the the
  1557. 1:06:02enhance your experience page
  1558. 1:06:04um which is kind of is has a whole bunch
  1559. 1:06:06of resources and videos and information
  1560. 1:06:07about the production
  1561. 1:06:09um and we'll be adding this this
  1562. 1:06:10incredible conversation
  1563. 1:06:12um so please join me in thanking uh our
  1564. 1:06:14wonderful guests Gene shear and Beck
  1565. 1:06:16weathers for being with us tonight thank
  1566. 1:06:18you so much thank you folks appreciate
  1567. 1:06:20it
  1568. 1:06:22appreciate it thank you so much and uh
  1569. 1:06:25we'll see you hopefully all of you at uh
  1570. 1:06:28at Everest in the most experience uh in
  1571. 1:06:30the coming weeks thank you have a good
  1572. 1:06:32night I'll give you a call soon okay
  1573. 1:06:37take care all

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