fast fashion the shady world of cheap clothing dw documentary — Transcript
Full transcript
- 0:02[Music]
- 0:08they may seem like great deals but there
- 0:10is a high cost to fast
- 0:26fashion the term fast fashion has become
- 0:30word for kind of Dody
- 0:32practices fast fashion is a huge
- 0:34business and one that does not
- 0:36appreciate prying
- 0:38eyes fast fashion has engendered a rise
- 0:42in informality a rise in
- 0:44precarity the turnaround from design to
- 0:47the finished product must be as fast as
- 0:49possible the whole process from order to
- 0:51delivery 12
- 0:54days with factories located in the heart
- 0:57of
- 0:58Britain I will be paid how much after 2
- 1:02weeks 3 3 per hour
- 1:06yeah the textile industry has a huge
- 1:09environmental impact actually they are
- 1:12just physical disabled she is only 26
- 1:15year
- 1:19old the story of this pretty little
- 1:22dress exposes the Dark Side of cheap
- 1:28fashion
- 1:30[Music]
- 1:45our planet is being swamped in clothes
- 1:47with some 56 million tons sold every
- 1:52year the number sold in Europe has
- 1:55doubled since the turn of the
- 1:58millennium
- 2:00[Music]
- 2:03today the textile industry is valued at
- 2:06about3
- 2:08trillion it has grown exponentially
- 2:11there's some numbers that say it's
- 2:12quintuple in volume it's absolutely
- 2:15crazy the figures that I have seen uh
- 2:18estimate that by 2030 the industry will
- 2:20expand by an additional
- 2:2460% with production costs continuing to
- 2:27fall and new collections made at an Ever
- 2:29FAS rate customers can constantly
- 2:32refresh their
- 2:35wardrobes fast fashion is the Commerce
- 2:38of very inexpensive clothing that you
- 2:41are expected or you are ready to replace
- 2:46very rapidly it's very typical for uh
- 2:50the fashion forward buyer to never wear
- 2:53an outfit that they purchased you will
- 2:55wear something once or twice or maybe
- 2:58never
- 3:04mass-produced cheap clothes are a
- 3:06disaster for the environment how could
- 3:08this be allowed to
- 3:11happen among the leaders in disposable
- 3:13fashion is a once small Spanish brand
- 3:16that's become a global giant of the
- 3:19industry Zara now has more than 2,000
- 3:22stores in almost 100
- 3:26countries Zara launches 65,000 new
- 3:30products every year traditional
- 3:32manufacturers normally have closer to
- 3:355,000 so that's over 10 times the number
- 3:3965,000 new products equals 200 models
- 3:42per day every month they replace 3/4 of
- 3:45their collection competitors do it more
- 3:47like every four to 5
- 3:51months zaro was founded in La karunia
- 3:55Galicia in Northwestern Spain a world
- 3:58away from the country's fashion capitals
- 4:00Madrid and
- 4:02Barcelona launa is the capital of the
- 4:05region and home to Zara's parent company
- 4:12inditex the label Zara bashka
- 4:15Stradivarius and masimo DTI can all be
- 4:18found here Under One
- 4:24Roof in 2016 it hosted the 80th birthday
- 4:28celebrations for Z as
- 4:30founder Amano Orga heads an Empire
- 4:34spanning 7 and a half thousand branches
- 4:37with
- 4:38170,000
- 4:40employees total annual profits over3
- 4:43billion
- 4:47EUR Ortega is one of the richest people
- 4:50on the
- 4:52planet and one who is famously media
- 4:58shy for this film as well he declined to
- 5:01give an
- 5:05interview in order to outpace the
- 5:08competition Zara established a unique
- 5:11system it oversees the entire chain of
- 5:14operations from the textile factories to
- 5:17the retail outlets enabling it to
- 5:19maximize the speed of
- 5:25production Zara needs 4 weeks from the
- 5:28moment they decide on a new model until
- 5:30the day it arrives in stores with Rivals
- 5:32it's more a matter of 5 6 or 8 months
- 5:35every week there's something new to
- 5:37discover the range of items changes at
- 5:39such a pace that it encourages Shoppers
- 5:41to come back the feeling of potentially
- 5:43missing out means that Zara customers
- 5:45visit stores 17 times a year whereas
- 5:47with the competition it's only three or
- 5:49four
- 5:52times it's rare for former Zara
- 5:55employees to reveal Secrets behind the
- 5:57Spanish Giants machinations
- 6:01this French designer spent 3 years
- 6:03working for
- 6:04index she designed jeans for bashka a
- 6:08label which targets a younger
- 6:13centel everything is engineer to
- 6:16minimize time La it's so obviously a
- 6:18case of copy and
- 6:21paste that's part of the reason why I
- 6:23left eventually it was too
- 6:28much that extreme time pressure makes it
- 6:31impossible to produce truly original
- 6:35items so the designers go on undercover
- 6:38missions to see what the competition has
- 6:41on
- 6:47offer all designers travel to get
- 6:50inspiration so for Zara we go shopping
- 6:52at high-end boutiques and classic
- 6:54fashion houses so as not to miss out on
- 6:56the latest
- 6:58trends we'd buy items that we thought
- 7:00were crucial and examined them in terms
- 7:02of shapes fabrics and
- 7:05colors and if we had something that met
- 7:07our three
- 7:09criteria you tried to copy it
- 7:13yes designers buy items of interest and
- 7:17then adapt them into lowcost versions
- 7:20under very precise
- 7:26specifications we had copyright training
- 7:28sessions several times a year to make
- 7:30sure we didn't make one toone
- 7:33copies you had to have at least seven
- 7:35points of difference to avoid getting
- 7:37sued you had to create differences
- 7:41exactly it's hard to follow fashion
- 7:43trends and not copy them a real
- 7:46balancing
- 7:50act now and again some of those small
- 7:53fashion labels try to fight back and sue
- 7:56the
- 7:58corporation
- 8:00but they rarely
- 8:11succeed one manufacturer refused to
- 8:14agree to a financial settlement rains
- 8:18the Danish company manufactures
- 8:20raincoats sold in over 20
- 8:28countries
- 8:30these are yeah these are the evidence
- 8:35yeah founder Daniel bricks designed the
- 8:38Brand's biggest success this green
- 8:42raincoat well this was actually one of
- 8:44the pictures we did uh when we
- 8:46discovered the the the copy in the
- 8:48market so here we have two twins wearing
- 8:51the same jacket fortunately one of the
- 8:54twins bought the sarra jacket and uh the
- 8:56other T have the original range jacket
- 9:02on the right the original on the left
- 9:05the cheaper Edition from
- 9:07[Music]
- 9:09Zara the design has been stolen for sure
- 9:13I don't even kind of understand the
- 9:15motivation of doing something which is
- 9:16so similar since it's so easy to do
- 9:18something which is a bit different like
- 9:21everybody else do but in this case they
- 9:23have made a product which is oneon-one
- 9:24the
- 9:28same a clear example of a copy without
- 9:31the seven stipulated
- 9:33differences an error that should not
- 9:36have happened after all the firm's legal
- 9:38department can reject a garment it deems
- 9:41too
- 9:46risky every time we made a logo or a
- 9:48print we'd show it to the legal people
- 9:51and usually it was
- 9:53approved but sometimes we'd get feedback
- 9:55saying be careful it's too similar and
- 9:58then the had to be reworked it drove our
- 10:01graphic design team
- 10:06crazy a legal battle with index can be a
- 10:10pricey
- 10:11undertaking but Reigns is a successful
- 10:14brand the Danish company decided to take
- 10:17the risk and sue for
- 10:21plagiarism while a case like this cannot
- 10:24be done for for less than €300,000 and
- 10:27even more than that so it's it's It's
- 10:29relatively
- 10:30expensive we hired in private detectives
- 10:33in China to find out informations about
- 10:36the whole process of applicating our
- 10:38products we have two factories
- 10:40confirming that they were instructed
- 10:43through an production agent that they
- 10:45were to make the same jacket as ours for
- 10:48this customer Sarah in in
- 10:52Spain in the spring of 2020 3 years
- 10:56after the suit was submitted zaro was
- 10:58found found guilty by a Danish
- 11:01Court it had to reimburse commercial
- 11:04damages and agree not to imitate Reign
- 11:07products
- 11:08[Music]
- 11:16again clothes make people more the case
- 11:19today than seldom before around half of
- 11:23all Instagram posts are connected to
- 11:25fashion and beauty products kamikon is a
- 11:29social media star who posts new photos
- 11:31and videos daily for her followers under
- 11:34the pseudonym
- 11:39[Music]
- 11:46[Music]
- 11:52noita here we have
- 11:54Asos
- 11:56Zara
- 11:57naked and some nasty gal
- 12:00jeans 80% of my wardrobe is fast
- 12:04fashion I've always been a shopping
- 12:06addict and I love to change my outfits
- 12:08around when I see something I order it I
- 12:11have to have it right away and don't
- 12:12want to wait for
- 12:16it this reflexive impulse to buy is no
- 12:20coincidence it is specifically triggered
- 12:23in certain areas of the
- 12:27brain this is the field of research of
- 12:29the American psychologist Alexander
- 12:33janeski he's an expert in
- 12:39[Music]
- 12:44neuroeconomics there's an area that is
- 12:47just about here that is called the
- 12:48ventral strum or the nucleus succumbs
- 12:51and this is a part of the brain that is
- 12:53often associated with reward processing
- 12:55or positive emotions so most of the
- 12:57things that we care about are how
- 12:58positively someone is responding to a
- 13:00product or um a firm or a brand would be
- 13:04uh represented by activity in this
- 13:07region the more manufacturers know about
- 13:09the way our minds work the more they can
- 13:12influence our purchasing
- 13:14Behavior fast fashion triggers our
- 13:17brains reward circuit with the primary
- 13:20factor being the
- 13:24price here for example you can see
- 13:26something that cost around €1 15
- 13:31I'm wearing an nastal sweatshir and
- 13:32jeans from boohoo I think the sweater
- 13:34costs around2 and the pant's
- 13:3630 if the price is particularly low
- 13:40specifically if if it's low compared to
- 13:42what you're used to seeing or
- 13:43Alternatives in the marketplace it can
- 13:45actually be seen as a positive aspect or
- 13:48part of the appeal of a product you see
- 13:49it less as having to sacrifice that
- 13:52amount of money but more that you are
- 13:54getting something and able to save much
- 13:56more than you would have had to pay
- 13:58otherwise
- 14:00sure the lower the price the more things
- 14:02you put in your basket and you end up
- 14:05with more than you
- 14:06planned that's the
- 14:09Trap low prices limited edition
- 14:12Collections and no end of stimuli and
- 14:15incentives above all via social
- 14:19media fast fashion is abandoning
- 14:22traditional advertising due to its high
- 14:24cost and limited scope for targeting
- 14:27specific groups instead companies now
- 14:30recruit influencers like
- 14:36noita now you go from a company telling
- 14:39you why you should be interested in a
- 14:41product to an individual that you aspire
- 14:44to be or you really like it seems like
- 14:46these people are talking directly to you
- 14:48and recommending these
- 14:50products influencers are the stars of
- 14:53this new form of advertising where every
- 14:56fan or follower is a potential customer
- 14:59the higher the profile of an influencer
- 15:01the more money they earn noita can earn
- 15:03up to 5,000 for one video
- 15:07[Music]
- 15:10alone it's been a big change for Brands
- 15:12because we sell their products so they
- 15:14spend increasingly larger budgets on
- 15:16influencers because we're bound to sell
- 15:18something on Instagram we can even post
- 15:20links so all add links to a dress or
- 15:23shoes so afterwards people end up on the
- 15:25vendor's website and we get paid
- 15:27according to the sales were made via
- 15:29these
- 15:31links we spend an average of 2 to three
- 15:34hours a day on our smartphones one in
- 15:37two users has a shopping
- 15:40[Music]
- 15:44app the internet is the new mall when
- 15:47you're looking at a young generation
- 15:48where it shops constantly constantly
- 15:51shops you're constantly online and
- 15:54you're constantly clicking and your
- 15:56credit card is memorized by your smart
- 15:58device and you click on something and
- 16:00you click and it comes to your
- 16:02house the traditional leaders in fast
- 16:05fashion have had to re-evaluate their
- 16:07strategy model in response to the
- 16:10success of companies that sell
- 16:11exclusively online they are faster and
- 16:15cheaper and are the inventors of ultra
- 16:18fast
- 16:19fashion boohoo is one of these new
- 16:22online Giants in 2019 the turnover of
- 16:26this British brand approached 1 billion
- 16:30it has its own Flagship label in
- 16:33addition to others including pretty
- 16:35little
- 16:42[Music]
- 16:49[Music]
- 16:52thing the boohoo website features this
- 16:55dress for
- 16:56€9 the kind of price where you might
- 16:59assume it was made in an Asian
- 17:04Factory this garment however was made in
- 17:12Europe to be exact in Leicester a city
- 17:16with a population of some 300,000 people
- 17:19in the English
- 17:22Midlands until the 1970s it was a hub of
- 17:26the British clothing industry expor in
- 17:28its textile products all over the
- 17:32world thousands of workers were employed
- 17:35in large scale
- 17:38[Music]
- 17:42factories the textile sector has
- 17:45returned to Leicester albeit with
- 17:47working conditions normally associated
- 17:49with the developing
- 17:51world a clerin world in which cameras
- 17:54are not
- 17:57welcome
- 18:14once people see with camera there will
- 18:16be 100 phone calls in Lester in within
- 18:1915 minutes now the man permitting us to
- 18:22film is s
- 18:24kji originally from Pakistan he's one of
- 18:27the Cities most successful
- 18:34entrepreneurs this is a factory where we
- 18:36are making garments how many people are
- 18:39working we have 92 people 92 people
- 18:42working and this is one of the biggest
- 18:43Factory in leester
- 18:47yeah all fast fashion coming from
- 18:49leester and leester has
- 18:52great manufacturing capacity that nobody
- 18:55has in UK not even in UK nobody has in
- 18:59whole Europe leester can deliver any
- 19:02garments within unbelievable delivery
- 19:04time Lester is master of fashion
- 19:14garments manufacturers partly returned
- 19:17to Leicester due to its location in
- 19:19central England which on the logistical
- 19:22front means saving
- 19:24time and time is very much a factor for
- 19:27S Ki
- 19:29in addition to developing his own label
- 19:32he also supplies British fast fashion
- 19:36brands so the whole process from order
- 19:39to delivery it's uh 12 days this is the
- 19:44unique point of Lester of our industry
- 19:46here that we can do quick fast service
- 19:49quick delivery the fabric is available
- 19:52here all the time so if the customer
- 19:54need it very urgently we can provide
- 19:56them within two weeks times but you
- 19:58cannot lose one day we cannot lose one
- 20:01hour forget one day the this is hour we
- 20:04are calculating hours and minutes here
- 20:07not
- 20:09days clothing designed produced and
- 20:12delivered within 2
- 20:18weeks that's twice as fast as Zara and
- 20:21it unbeatable
- 20:25prices but that efficiency comes at a
- 20:27high
- 20:29price the factory district with its
- 20:32opaque system of subcontractors has
- 20:34become a lawless
- 20:43Zone we have few number of very powerful
- 20:46brands or retailers buyers at the top
- 20:50that place orders to a very large number
- 20:53of smaller manufacturers that chase
- 20:57smaller orders do every day obviously
- 21:00engenders competition and pushes prices
- 21:03down for manufacturers It's always
- 21:06important to take any order they can get
- 21:10even if they don't have the capacity to
- 21:12fulfill the order and that is part of
- 21:15the problem they have to subcontract it
- 21:18and often they subcontract it to second
- 21:21or third tier factories where working
- 21:25conditions are of a much lower standard
- 21:28than they might be in the first tier
- 21:33[Applause]
- 21:36manufacturer as can be seen all over the
- 21:38city there's no shortage of vacancies
- 21:41for all jobs in the production
- 21:45process Tanya is a journalist equipped
- 21:49with a hidden camera she goes undercover
- 21:51for a look inside the clothes factories
- 21:53of
- 21:57Leicester
- 21:58I'm looking for a job do you know if
- 22:00somebody here is looking for somebody I
- 22:03learn very quickly so I'm I looking for
- 22:04a little job I don't P je you win how
- 22:08many down here in Great Britain yeah
- 22:10only for some weeks so do you know
- 22:12somebody who is looking for sound
- 22:14Walkers you know it's TI when we here
- 22:18it's good work no problem okay okay but
- 22:22this one is Cash no transer money you
- 22:25know any problem any no problem
- 22:28[Applause]
- 22:31[Music]
- 22:38the windows are covered up it's the
- 22:40middle of winter and there's no heating
- 22:43the boss insists on a trial period
- 22:46without
- 22:48[Music]
- 22:53pay you can just one two week learning
- 22:57ladies
- 22:58after 2 weeks 3 3 L per hour
- 23:04yeah 3 per hour is below the statutory
- 23:08minimum wage in Britain in fact less
- 23:11than half of
- 23:13it how much hours should they what you
- 23:16like no problem 10 12 or
- 23:1814 even 14 yeah no problem he's openon
- 23:22so I can uhy no problem at what time
- 23:26should I come here every morning 8:00
- 23:29okay 6:00 8:00 till 6:00 okay I will try
- 23:35this one it's not easy Tanya's training
- 23:37comprises a brief demonstration on a
- 23:40sewing machine but I have two weeks to
- 23:43learn it to learn to bre this one is
- 23:46Topia and what is
- 23:49this skirt skirt
- 23:52okay soon novice seamstress Tanya is
- 23:56making skirts without
- 23:58[Music]
- 24:07pay the skirts will be sold online by a
- 24:11major fast fashion
- 24:13label pretty little
- 24:16things pretty little
- 24:22things pretty little thing belongs to
- 24:25the boohoo group The skirts SE by Tanya
- 24:28will sell for €1 15 a
- 24:30[Music]
- 24:38piece it's barely 1: p.m. when suddenly
- 24:42work stops orders have dried
- 24:46up workers employed on an hourly basis
- 24:50are sent home with no compensation
- 24:55pay fast fashion has engendered a rise
- 24:59in informality a rise in precarity
- 25:02workers essentially work on a system of
- 25:06informal Zero Hour contracts so they
- 25:09never have a contract so see you
- 25:11tomorrow yeah see you tomorrow bye
- 25:17bye the factories in Leicester have a
- 25:20bad reputation prompting many labels to
- 25:22shift production elsewhere but not the
- 25:25boohoo group with pretty little thing a
- 25:28label very much on the
- 25:31rise in 2019 its sales doubled to a
- 25:35total of almost 400 million
- 25:39[Music]
- 25:48[Music]
- 25:56e pretty little thing declined a request
- 25:59for an interview so we headed for the
- 26:01opening of its Parisian showroom to
- 26:04speak to its
- 26:07CEO Umar kamani is the son of the
- 26:10founder of buho Mahmud kamani the
- 26:14company has made him a
- 26:16billionaire surrounded by his bodyguards
- 26:19Kanani Jor Revels in the pop star like
- 26:24attention we're all thing we want to be
- 26:26more than a fashion web right we want to
- 26:28be a Lifestyle brand we want to give
- 26:31good um meaning to the customer you know
- 26:34good values if you have a daughter uh we
- 26:36think pretty little things should
- 26:38Inspire girls in the right
- 26:41way I've got a dress here it's address
- 26:44it's
- 26:4515 how are you able to do add dress 15
- 26:49in It's Made in the UK how do you do
- 26:51this yeah we I'm not answering this
- 26:54question why I don't want to why it's
- 26:57your dress yeah it's PLT how do you do
- 26:59this I don't answer the question why why
- 27:03I don't have to answer a question do I
- 27:05no I'm just asking a simple question how
- 27:07is it ask somebody else but you're the
- 27:10bus no ask somebody
- 27:13else we we know this dress is made by uh
- 27:18workers that are paid half half the
- 27:20minimum
- 27:21wage we know
- 27:23that how how do you address
- 27:26this
- 27:34[Music]
- 27:37over stop
- 27:41keep keep
- 27:50keep after this eventful meeting we
- 27:53received a statement from pretty little
- 27:55thing all textile work workers a pretty
- 27:58little thing are treated fairly and
- 28:00receive at least the minimum
- 28:02[Music]
- 28:17wage producing clothes at such a low
- 28:20price comes at a high environmental
- 28:23cost the textile industry is the second
- 28:26biggest polluter in the the world after
- 28:29[Music]
- 28:33oil per one part one ton of fabric as we
- 28:38call it 200 tons of water polluted so 1
- 28:42to 200 is the ratio the more Commerce
- 28:46there is the more pollution there's
- 28:48going to be without efficient filtration
- 28:51and cleanup technology if the fashion
- 28:53industry is going to expand by an
- 28:55additional 60% in the next 10 years then
- 29:00we're going to get 60% more
- 29:05pollution under the pressure of public
- 29:07opinion the textile industry is trying
- 29:09to
- 29:10Rebrand at trade shows the color of
- 29:13choice is
- 29:14green organic sustainable recyclable
- 29:18green fashion is in
- 29:26trend
- 29:31and one particular fabric embodies this
- 29:34shift visco cheap artificial silk
- 29:38popular with fast fashion
- 29:40brands this red dress from Asos and the
- 29:43snake print design from boohoo are made
- 29:45of 95%
- 29:52Visos so this is the
- 29:56wood
- 29:58from here you make the
- 30:00pulp and from there you make
- 30:05fiber so that's Vos the sosic fiber and
- 30:10from here it became yarn from yarn to
- 30:12fabric the process it takes from where
- 30:16you Source the wood the kind of
- 30:20certifications you fall into all that
- 30:22put together helps you a nature-based
- 30:25product yeah Visos is more
- 30:30eco-friendly Visos is only manufactured
- 30:33by a handful of companies around the
- 30:36world among them is the adre baa group a
- 30:40$40 billion Indian
- 30:43conglomerate index H&M Asos all the big
- 30:47names by their Visos from
- 30:50baa we believe that the planet comes
- 30:53first our philosophy of forest of
- 30:56fashion ensures that while Visos
- 30:59according to biller is a blessing that
- 31:02what's good for the planet is what's
- 31:05good for
- 31:08us but transforming wood into fabric
- 31:12requires a huge amount of
- 31:15chemicals one of the most dangerous is a
- 31:17highly toxic solvent carbon disulfide or
- 31:25CS2 well it's marketed as a green
- 31:28product is it basically a
- 31:32lie yes it's an extremely interesting
- 31:37[Music]
- 31:39poison the danger emanates from the
- 31:42fumes produced to give the Visos its
- 31:45threadlike texture CS2 is added to the
- 31:48wood pulp which is then immersed in a
- 31:50bath of sulfuric
- 31:54acid the minute it hits sulfuric acid
- 31:57the carbon disulfide
- 32:00leaves the cellulose unfortunately where
- 32:03it leaves the cellulose too is the work
- 32:06room where the workers are working it
- 32:08just goes up into the
- 32:12air nagta in the Indian state of Madia
- 32:16Pradesh is home to the baa group's first
- 32:20factory built in
- 32:221956 it's a city within a city with a
- 32:25Workforce of 5,000 thousand toiling away
- 32:28here day and
- 32:32night journalists are not
- 32:39welcome PA Blanc has assimilated the
- 32:42health problems associated with CS2 in a
- 32:45book they include eye disease
- 32:48infertility and vascular
- 32:50problems when I did my work on this book
- 32:54I visited the areas in Wales where these
- 32:57large factories had been I started to
- 32:59get emails from
- 33:01people and they would say you
- 33:04know my father died at the age of 42
- 33:08from a heart attack he worked in the
- 33:09factory and doing that we never got a
- 33:11penny
- 33:15in Ashok pval began working at Baer in
- 33:191981 in June 2019 he suffered a heart
- 33:23attack which he says was caused by his
- 33:26job
- 33:29yes yes I consider the company
- 33:31responsible the heart attack I had was
- 33:34because of my work there I filtered the
- 33:39Visos were you given any
- 33:43training no I was made to work without
- 33:46training they told me to just go ahead
- 33:50we filtered the CS2 by hand with
- 33:53cloth the company never gave me any
- 33:56warning no official ever said anything
- 33:59they told me that doing this job was
- 34:07safe at the age of 58 Ashok pval is on
- 34:11indefinite sick leave without
- 34:17pay abishek kazia is one of the few
- 34:20residents of nagda to take action
- 34:22against the pollution linked to the
- 34:24factory a law student filed a complaint
- 34:28against the
- 34:30company actually they are not allowing
- 34:33the people to come inside the company
- 34:35they are just always hide the all thing
- 34:38in front of the all people nobody can
- 34:40take action against them because they
- 34:43have too much long
- 34:45hand the students complaint alerted the
- 34:48regional authorities in January 2020 the
- 34:52pollution control agency inspected the
- 34:55bill a factory
- 34:57the factory was ordered to change its
- 35:00practices most importantly officials
- 35:02demanded a study of the effects of
- 35:04pollution on the health of workers
- 35:06looking in particular at Carbon
- 35:08disulfide
- 35:17CS2 north of nagda along the chambal
- 35:20river there are 20,000 people living in
- 35:22around 20
- 35:25villages
- 35:28among them is palmeri located 4 km from
- 35:32the
- 35:35plant for years the villagers have been
- 35:37reporting health
- 35:39[Music]
- 35:46problems the residents complaints were
- 35:49finally taken seriously by the
- 35:53authorities today a team of doctors has
- 35:55arrived to examine
- 35:59residence among the patients is this
- 36:02father who came with his two disabled
- 36:05[Music]
- 36:11Sons these children were born healthy
- 36:14they used to be able to walk and go to
- 36:16school this one walked to school until
- 36:18the sixth grade so his muscles were
- 36:21functioning normally but little by
- 36:24little they degenerated and now he's in
- 36:27a
- 36:31[Music]
- 36:43wheelchair there are no official
- 36:46statistics but many villages show
- 36:48similar symptoms paralysis articulation
- 36:52problems and even loss of
- 36:55speech
- 36:57in this single family there are three
- 36:59people are suffering from physical
- 37:01disability this girl has been uh 26 year
- 37:05old and they both brothers are 23 or 24
- 37:08years actually they are just physical
- 37:11disabled and the growth of the body is
- 37:13is
- 37:15STP and you just see the hair of that
- 37:17girl she is only 26 year
- 37:22[Music]
- 37:25old
- 37:28the government doctors counted 209
- 37:31individuals with health complaints
- 37:33linked to
- 37:36pollution for locals there's one main
- 37:39suspect baa they accuse it of having
- 37:42dumped its waste into the river for
- 37:53decades the village of palak has no
- 37:56running water people here drink water
- 37:59from Wells fed by the
- 38:05river in 2018 Baer began Distributing
- 38:08drinking water to villages in the
- 38:14area it finances six daily deliveries
- 38:18providing 90 L of water for each
- 38:25family the companies are availing the
- 38:28drinking water why would the company
- 38:30give free water to the inhabitants
- 38:33because they know that they are
- 38:34responsible for the pollution otherwise
- 38:36why they are just providing the water to
- 38:38the uh not this Village they providing
- 38:4122 Village and they know that they are
- 38:43responsible for the pollution and they
- 38:45only provide the water for drinking
- 38:47purpose not other
- 38:49[Music]
- 38:52uses to water their fields the farmers
- 38:55in palic still use polluted water from
- 38:58the
- 38:59river in January 2020 the authorities
- 39:02ordered biller to improve the water
- 39:04quality Downstream from the
- 39:07plant but biller denies all
- 39:10responsibility insisting that any
- 39:12pollution is unrelated to visco's
- 39:20production meanwhile Global demand for
- 39:23Visos is soaring the factory in nagda
- 39:26has plans to expand capacity and its
- 39:33[Music]
- 39:38facilities the fashion industry wants us
- 39:41to believe it has increasingly
- 39:42sustainable credentials but in reality
- 39:46the opposite is the case the lifespan of
- 39:49a fast fashioned garment is short and
- 39:51not only because in some cases things
- 39:53are only worn once and then discarded
- 39:58this garment has not been worn very
- 40:00often but you can already see signs of
- 40:03pilling around the
- 40:04hips with this dress the fibers have
- 40:07quickly become worn out so it no longer
- 40:10looks
- 40:14new when it comes to these fast fashion
- 40:17items you couldn't sell them in a
- 40:19secondhand store
- 40:25either
- 40:29under 1% of our clothing can be recycled
- 40:33every year 4 million tons of textiles
- 40:36end up in the trash here in
- 40:42Europe can we stop this fast fashion
- 40:47craziness there are small Brands
- 40:49supporting slow fashion clothes of a
- 40:52higher fairer and more sustainable
- 40:55quality
- 40:59efforts that soon reach their limits
- 41:01because slow fashion seems to have a
- 41:03limited
- 41:04appeal Studies by the French fashion
- 41:07institute revealed that stores with less
- 41:10new items simply see a lower Financial
- 41:15[Music]
- 41:19turnover if I had a dollar for every
- 41:21time somebody asked me tell me what I
- 41:23should
- 41:24buy I say no nothing
- 41:28nothing you have way too much stuff
- 41:31already but now what do we do what do we
- 41:34say stop spending money this is not a
- 41:37viable economic solution not shopping is
- 41:39not a solution to the industry so fast
- 41:43fashion will continue to be popular and
- 41:46it will continue to show strides towards
- 41:49improving towards circularity so we
- 41:52might see minor improvements in product
- 41:55development but we will not see the end
- 41:57of fast
- 41:59[Music]
- 42:07[Music]
- 42:17[Music]
- 42:25fashion
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