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fast fashion the shady world of cheap clothing dw documentary — Transcript

by 范志铭 · 4,516 words · 793 segments · language en · Watch on YouTube

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  1. 0:02[Music]
  2. 0:08they may seem like great deals but there
  3. 0:10is a high cost to fast
  4. 0:26fashion the term fast fashion has become
  5. 0:30word for kind of Dody
  6. 0:32practices fast fashion is a huge
  7. 0:34business and one that does not
  8. 0:36appreciate prying
  9. 0:38eyes fast fashion has engendered a rise
  10. 0:42in informality a rise in
  11. 0:44precarity the turnaround from design to
  12. 0:47the finished product must be as fast as
  13. 0:49possible the whole process from order to
  14. 0:51delivery 12
  15. 0:54days with factories located in the heart
  16. 0:57of
  17. 0:58Britain I will be paid how much after 2
  18. 1:02weeks 3 3 per hour
  19. 1:06yeah the textile industry has a huge
  20. 1:09environmental impact actually they are
  21. 1:12just physical disabled she is only 26
  22. 1:15year
  23. 1:19old the story of this pretty little
  24. 1:22dress exposes the Dark Side of cheap
  25. 1:28fashion
  26. 1:30[Music]
  27. 1:45our planet is being swamped in clothes
  28. 1:47with some 56 million tons sold every
  29. 1:52year the number sold in Europe has
  30. 1:55doubled since the turn of the
  31. 1:58millennium
  32. 2:00[Music]
  33. 2:03today the textile industry is valued at
  34. 2:06about3
  35. 2:08trillion it has grown exponentially
  36. 2:11there's some numbers that say it's
  37. 2:12quintuple in volume it's absolutely
  38. 2:15crazy the figures that I have seen uh
  39. 2:18estimate that by 2030 the industry will
  40. 2:20expand by an additional
  41. 2:2460% with production costs continuing to
  42. 2:27fall and new collections made at an Ever
  43. 2:29FAS rate customers can constantly
  44. 2:32refresh their
  45. 2:35wardrobes fast fashion is the Commerce
  46. 2:38of very inexpensive clothing that you
  47. 2:41are expected or you are ready to replace
  48. 2:46very rapidly it's very typical for uh
  49. 2:50the fashion forward buyer to never wear
  50. 2:53an outfit that they purchased you will
  51. 2:55wear something once or twice or maybe
  52. 2:58never
  53. 3:04mass-produced cheap clothes are a
  54. 3:06disaster for the environment how could
  55. 3:08this be allowed to
  56. 3:11happen among the leaders in disposable
  57. 3:13fashion is a once small Spanish brand
  58. 3:16that's become a global giant of the
  59. 3:19industry Zara now has more than 2,000
  60. 3:22stores in almost 100
  61. 3:26countries Zara launches 65,000 new
  62. 3:30products every year traditional
  63. 3:32manufacturers normally have closer to
  64. 3:355,000 so that's over 10 times the number
  65. 3:3965,000 new products equals 200 models
  66. 3:42per day every month they replace 3/4 of
  67. 3:45their collection competitors do it more
  68. 3:47like every four to 5
  69. 3:51months zaro was founded in La karunia
  70. 3:55Galicia in Northwestern Spain a world
  71. 3:58away from the country's fashion capitals
  72. 4:00Madrid and
  73. 4:02Barcelona launa is the capital of the
  74. 4:05region and home to Zara's parent company
  75. 4:12inditex the label Zara bashka
  76. 4:15Stradivarius and masimo DTI can all be
  77. 4:18found here Under One
  78. 4:24Roof in 2016 it hosted the 80th birthday
  79. 4:28celebrations for Z as
  80. 4:30founder Amano Orga heads an Empire
  81. 4:34spanning 7 and a half thousand branches
  82. 4:37with
  83. 4:38170,000
  84. 4:40employees total annual profits over3
  85. 4:43billion
  86. 4:47EUR Ortega is one of the richest people
  87. 4:50on the
  88. 4:52planet and one who is famously media
  89. 4:58shy for this film as well he declined to
  90. 5:01give an
  91. 5:05interview in order to outpace the
  92. 5:08competition Zara established a unique
  93. 5:11system it oversees the entire chain of
  94. 5:14operations from the textile factories to
  95. 5:17the retail outlets enabling it to
  96. 5:19maximize the speed of
  97. 5:25production Zara needs 4 weeks from the
  98. 5:28moment they decide on a new model until
  99. 5:30the day it arrives in stores with Rivals
  100. 5:32it's more a matter of 5 6 or 8 months
  101. 5:35every week there's something new to
  102. 5:37discover the range of items changes at
  103. 5:39such a pace that it encourages Shoppers
  104. 5:41to come back the feeling of potentially
  105. 5:43missing out means that Zara customers
  106. 5:45visit stores 17 times a year whereas
  107. 5:47with the competition it's only three or
  108. 5:49four
  109. 5:52times it's rare for former Zara
  110. 5:55employees to reveal Secrets behind the
  111. 5:57Spanish Giants machinations
  112. 6:01this French designer spent 3 years
  113. 6:03working for
  114. 6:04index she designed jeans for bashka a
  115. 6:08label which targets a younger
  116. 6:13centel everything is engineer to
  117. 6:16minimize time La it's so obviously a
  118. 6:18case of copy and
  119. 6:21paste that's part of the reason why I
  120. 6:23left eventually it was too
  121. 6:28much that extreme time pressure makes it
  122. 6:31impossible to produce truly original
  123. 6:35items so the designers go on undercover
  124. 6:38missions to see what the competition has
  125. 6:41on
  126. 6:47offer all designers travel to get
  127. 6:50inspiration so for Zara we go shopping
  128. 6:52at high-end boutiques and classic
  129. 6:54fashion houses so as not to miss out on
  130. 6:56the latest
  131. 6:58trends we'd buy items that we thought
  132. 7:00were crucial and examined them in terms
  133. 7:02of shapes fabrics and
  134. 7:05colors and if we had something that met
  135. 7:07our three
  136. 7:09criteria you tried to copy it
  137. 7:13yes designers buy items of interest and
  138. 7:17then adapt them into lowcost versions
  139. 7:20under very precise
  140. 7:26specifications we had copyright training
  141. 7:28sessions several times a year to make
  142. 7:30sure we didn't make one toone
  143. 7:33copies you had to have at least seven
  144. 7:35points of difference to avoid getting
  145. 7:37sued you had to create differences
  146. 7:41exactly it's hard to follow fashion
  147. 7:43trends and not copy them a real
  148. 7:46balancing
  149. 7:50act now and again some of those small
  150. 7:53fashion labels try to fight back and sue
  151. 7:56the
  152. 7:58corporation
  153. 8:00but they rarely
  154. 8:11succeed one manufacturer refused to
  155. 8:14agree to a financial settlement rains
  156. 8:18the Danish company manufactures
  157. 8:20raincoats sold in over 20
  158. 8:28countries
  159. 8:30these are yeah these are the evidence
  160. 8:35yeah founder Daniel bricks designed the
  161. 8:38Brand's biggest success this green
  162. 8:42raincoat well this was actually one of
  163. 8:44the pictures we did uh when we
  164. 8:46discovered the the the copy in the
  165. 8:48market so here we have two twins wearing
  166. 8:51the same jacket fortunately one of the
  167. 8:54twins bought the sarra jacket and uh the
  168. 8:56other T have the original range jacket
  169. 9:02on the right the original on the left
  170. 9:05the cheaper Edition from
  171. 9:07[Music]
  172. 9:09Zara the design has been stolen for sure
  173. 9:13I don't even kind of understand the
  174. 9:15motivation of doing something which is
  175. 9:16so similar since it's so easy to do
  176. 9:18something which is a bit different like
  177. 9:21everybody else do but in this case they
  178. 9:23have made a product which is oneon-one
  179. 9:24the
  180. 9:28same a clear example of a copy without
  181. 9:31the seven stipulated
  182. 9:33differences an error that should not
  183. 9:36have happened after all the firm's legal
  184. 9:38department can reject a garment it deems
  185. 9:41too
  186. 9:46risky every time we made a logo or a
  187. 9:48print we'd show it to the legal people
  188. 9:51and usually it was
  189. 9:53approved but sometimes we'd get feedback
  190. 9:55saying be careful it's too similar and
  191. 9:58then the had to be reworked it drove our
  192. 10:01graphic design team
  193. 10:06crazy a legal battle with index can be a
  194. 10:10pricey
  195. 10:11undertaking but Reigns is a successful
  196. 10:14brand the Danish company decided to take
  197. 10:17the risk and sue for
  198. 10:21plagiarism while a case like this cannot
  199. 10:24be done for for less than €300,000 and
  200. 10:27even more than that so it's it's It's
  201. 10:29relatively
  202. 10:30expensive we hired in private detectives
  203. 10:33in China to find out informations about
  204. 10:36the whole process of applicating our
  205. 10:38products we have two factories
  206. 10:40confirming that they were instructed
  207. 10:43through an production agent that they
  208. 10:45were to make the same jacket as ours for
  209. 10:48this customer Sarah in in
  210. 10:52Spain in the spring of 2020 3 years
  211. 10:56after the suit was submitted zaro was
  212. 10:58found found guilty by a Danish
  213. 11:01Court it had to reimburse commercial
  214. 11:04damages and agree not to imitate Reign
  215. 11:07products
  216. 11:08[Music]
  217. 11:16again clothes make people more the case
  218. 11:19today than seldom before around half of
  219. 11:23all Instagram posts are connected to
  220. 11:25fashion and beauty products kamikon is a
  221. 11:29social media star who posts new photos
  222. 11:31and videos daily for her followers under
  223. 11:34the pseudonym
  224. 11:39[Music]
  225. 11:46[Music]
  226. 11:52noita here we have
  227. 11:54Asos
  228. 11:56Zara
  229. 11:57naked and some nasty gal
  230. 12:00jeans 80% of my wardrobe is fast
  231. 12:04fashion I've always been a shopping
  232. 12:06addict and I love to change my outfits
  233. 12:08around when I see something I order it I
  234. 12:11have to have it right away and don't
  235. 12:12want to wait for
  236. 12:16it this reflexive impulse to buy is no
  237. 12:20coincidence it is specifically triggered
  238. 12:23in certain areas of the
  239. 12:27brain this is the field of research of
  240. 12:29the American psychologist Alexander
  241. 12:33janeski he's an expert in
  242. 12:39[Music]
  243. 12:44neuroeconomics there's an area that is
  244. 12:47just about here that is called the
  245. 12:48ventral strum or the nucleus succumbs
  246. 12:51and this is a part of the brain that is
  247. 12:53often associated with reward processing
  248. 12:55or positive emotions so most of the
  249. 12:57things that we care about are how
  250. 12:58positively someone is responding to a
  251. 13:00product or um a firm or a brand would be
  252. 13:04uh represented by activity in this
  253. 13:07region the more manufacturers know about
  254. 13:09the way our minds work the more they can
  255. 13:12influence our purchasing
  256. 13:14Behavior fast fashion triggers our
  257. 13:17brains reward circuit with the primary
  258. 13:20factor being the
  259. 13:24price here for example you can see
  260. 13:26something that cost around €1 15
  261. 13:31I'm wearing an nastal sweatshir and
  262. 13:32jeans from boohoo I think the sweater
  263. 13:34costs around2 and the pant's
  264. 13:3630 if the price is particularly low
  265. 13:40specifically if if it's low compared to
  266. 13:42what you're used to seeing or
  267. 13:43Alternatives in the marketplace it can
  268. 13:45actually be seen as a positive aspect or
  269. 13:48part of the appeal of a product you see
  270. 13:49it less as having to sacrifice that
  271. 13:52amount of money but more that you are
  272. 13:54getting something and able to save much
  273. 13:56more than you would have had to pay
  274. 13:58otherwise
  275. 14:00sure the lower the price the more things
  276. 14:02you put in your basket and you end up
  277. 14:05with more than you
  278. 14:06planned that's the
  279. 14:09Trap low prices limited edition
  280. 14:12Collections and no end of stimuli and
  281. 14:15incentives above all via social
  282. 14:19media fast fashion is abandoning
  283. 14:22traditional advertising due to its high
  284. 14:24cost and limited scope for targeting
  285. 14:27specific groups instead companies now
  286. 14:30recruit influencers like
  287. 14:36noita now you go from a company telling
  288. 14:39you why you should be interested in a
  289. 14:41product to an individual that you aspire
  290. 14:44to be or you really like it seems like
  291. 14:46these people are talking directly to you
  292. 14:48and recommending these
  293. 14:50products influencers are the stars of
  294. 14:53this new form of advertising where every
  295. 14:56fan or follower is a potential customer
  296. 14:59the higher the profile of an influencer
  297. 15:01the more money they earn noita can earn
  298. 15:03up to 5,000 for one video
  299. 15:07[Music]
  300. 15:10alone it's been a big change for Brands
  301. 15:12because we sell their products so they
  302. 15:14spend increasingly larger budgets on
  303. 15:16influencers because we're bound to sell
  304. 15:18something on Instagram we can even post
  305. 15:20links so all add links to a dress or
  306. 15:23shoes so afterwards people end up on the
  307. 15:25vendor's website and we get paid
  308. 15:27according to the sales were made via
  309. 15:29these
  310. 15:31links we spend an average of 2 to three
  311. 15:34hours a day on our smartphones one in
  312. 15:37two users has a shopping
  313. 15:40[Music]
  314. 15:44app the internet is the new mall when
  315. 15:47you're looking at a young generation
  316. 15:48where it shops constantly constantly
  317. 15:51shops you're constantly online and
  318. 15:54you're constantly clicking and your
  319. 15:56credit card is memorized by your smart
  320. 15:58device and you click on something and
  321. 16:00you click and it comes to your
  322. 16:02house the traditional leaders in fast
  323. 16:05fashion have had to re-evaluate their
  324. 16:07strategy model in response to the
  325. 16:10success of companies that sell
  326. 16:11exclusively online they are faster and
  327. 16:15cheaper and are the inventors of ultra
  328. 16:18fast
  329. 16:19fashion boohoo is one of these new
  330. 16:22online Giants in 2019 the turnover of
  331. 16:26this British brand approached 1 billion
  332. 16:30it has its own Flagship label in
  333. 16:33addition to others including pretty
  334. 16:35little
  335. 16:42[Music]
  336. 16:49[Music]
  337. 16:52thing the boohoo website features this
  338. 16:55dress for
  339. 16:56€9 the kind of price where you might
  340. 16:59assume it was made in an Asian
  341. 17:04Factory this garment however was made in
  342. 17:12Europe to be exact in Leicester a city
  343. 17:16with a population of some 300,000 people
  344. 17:19in the English
  345. 17:22Midlands until the 1970s it was a hub of
  346. 17:26the British clothing industry expor in
  347. 17:28its textile products all over the
  348. 17:32world thousands of workers were employed
  349. 17:35in large scale
  350. 17:38[Music]
  351. 17:42factories the textile sector has
  352. 17:45returned to Leicester albeit with
  353. 17:47working conditions normally associated
  354. 17:49with the developing
  355. 17:51world a clerin world in which cameras
  356. 17:54are not
  357. 17:57welcome
  358. 18:14once people see with camera there will
  359. 18:16be 100 phone calls in Lester in within
  360. 18:1915 minutes now the man permitting us to
  361. 18:22film is s
  362. 18:24kji originally from Pakistan he's one of
  363. 18:27the Cities most successful
  364. 18:34entrepreneurs this is a factory where we
  365. 18:36are making garments how many people are
  366. 18:39working we have 92 people 92 people
  367. 18:42working and this is one of the biggest
  368. 18:43Factory in leester
  369. 18:47yeah all fast fashion coming from
  370. 18:49leester and leester has
  371. 18:52great manufacturing capacity that nobody
  372. 18:55has in UK not even in UK nobody has in
  373. 18:59whole Europe leester can deliver any
  374. 19:02garments within unbelievable delivery
  375. 19:04time Lester is master of fashion
  376. 19:14garments manufacturers partly returned
  377. 19:17to Leicester due to its location in
  378. 19:19central England which on the logistical
  379. 19:22front means saving
  380. 19:24time and time is very much a factor for
  381. 19:27S Ki
  382. 19:29in addition to developing his own label
  383. 19:32he also supplies British fast fashion
  384. 19:36brands so the whole process from order
  385. 19:39to delivery it's uh 12 days this is the
  386. 19:44unique point of Lester of our industry
  387. 19:46here that we can do quick fast service
  388. 19:49quick delivery the fabric is available
  389. 19:52here all the time so if the customer
  390. 19:54need it very urgently we can provide
  391. 19:56them within two weeks times but you
  392. 19:58cannot lose one day we cannot lose one
  393. 20:01hour forget one day the this is hour we
  394. 20:04are calculating hours and minutes here
  395. 20:07not
  396. 20:09days clothing designed produced and
  397. 20:12delivered within 2
  398. 20:18weeks that's twice as fast as Zara and
  399. 20:21it unbeatable
  400. 20:25prices but that efficiency comes at a
  401. 20:27high
  402. 20:29price the factory district with its
  403. 20:32opaque system of subcontractors has
  404. 20:34become a lawless
  405. 20:43Zone we have few number of very powerful
  406. 20:46brands or retailers buyers at the top
  407. 20:50that place orders to a very large number
  408. 20:53of smaller manufacturers that chase
  409. 20:57smaller orders do every day obviously
  410. 21:00engenders competition and pushes prices
  411. 21:03down for manufacturers It's always
  412. 21:06important to take any order they can get
  413. 21:10even if they don't have the capacity to
  414. 21:12fulfill the order and that is part of
  415. 21:15the problem they have to subcontract it
  416. 21:18and often they subcontract it to second
  417. 21:21or third tier factories where working
  418. 21:25conditions are of a much lower standard
  419. 21:28than they might be in the first tier
  420. 21:33[Applause]
  421. 21:36manufacturer as can be seen all over the
  422. 21:38city there's no shortage of vacancies
  423. 21:41for all jobs in the production
  424. 21:45process Tanya is a journalist equipped
  425. 21:49with a hidden camera she goes undercover
  426. 21:51for a look inside the clothes factories
  427. 21:53of
  428. 21:57Leicester
  429. 21:58I'm looking for a job do you know if
  430. 22:00somebody here is looking for somebody I
  431. 22:03learn very quickly so I'm I looking for
  432. 22:04a little job I don't P je you win how
  433. 22:08many down here in Great Britain yeah
  434. 22:10only for some weeks so do you know
  435. 22:12somebody who is looking for sound
  436. 22:14Walkers you know it's TI when we here
  437. 22:18it's good work no problem okay okay but
  438. 22:22this one is Cash no transer money you
  439. 22:25know any problem any no problem
  440. 22:28[Applause]
  441. 22:31[Music]
  442. 22:38the windows are covered up it's the
  443. 22:40middle of winter and there's no heating
  444. 22:43the boss insists on a trial period
  445. 22:46without
  446. 22:48[Music]
  447. 22:53pay you can just one two week learning
  448. 22:57ladies
  449. 22:58after 2 weeks 3 3 L per hour
  450. 23:04yeah 3 per hour is below the statutory
  451. 23:08minimum wage in Britain in fact less
  452. 23:11than half of
  453. 23:13it how much hours should they what you
  454. 23:16like no problem 10 12 or
  455. 23:1814 even 14 yeah no problem he's openon
  456. 23:22so I can uhy no problem at what time
  457. 23:26should I come here every morning 8:00
  458. 23:29okay 6:00 8:00 till 6:00 okay I will try
  459. 23:35this one it's not easy Tanya's training
  460. 23:37comprises a brief demonstration on a
  461. 23:40sewing machine but I have two weeks to
  462. 23:43learn it to learn to bre this one is
  463. 23:46Topia and what is
  464. 23:49this skirt skirt
  465. 23:52okay soon novice seamstress Tanya is
  466. 23:56making skirts without
  467. 23:58[Music]
  468. 24:07pay the skirts will be sold online by a
  469. 24:11major fast fashion
  470. 24:13label pretty little
  471. 24:16things pretty little
  472. 24:22things pretty little thing belongs to
  473. 24:25the boohoo group The skirts SE by Tanya
  474. 24:28will sell for €1 15 a
  475. 24:30[Music]
  476. 24:38piece it's barely 1: p.m. when suddenly
  477. 24:42work stops orders have dried
  478. 24:46up workers employed on an hourly basis
  479. 24:50are sent home with no compensation
  480. 24:55pay fast fashion has engendered a rise
  481. 24:59in informality a rise in precarity
  482. 25:02workers essentially work on a system of
  483. 25:06informal Zero Hour contracts so they
  484. 25:09never have a contract so see you
  485. 25:11tomorrow yeah see you tomorrow bye
  486. 25:17bye the factories in Leicester have a
  487. 25:20bad reputation prompting many labels to
  488. 25:22shift production elsewhere but not the
  489. 25:25boohoo group with pretty little thing a
  490. 25:28label very much on the
  491. 25:31rise in 2019 its sales doubled to a
  492. 25:35total of almost 400 million
  493. 25:39[Music]
  494. 25:48[Music]
  495. 25:56e pretty little thing declined a request
  496. 25:59for an interview so we headed for the
  497. 26:01opening of its Parisian showroom to
  498. 26:04speak to its
  499. 26:07CEO Umar kamani is the son of the
  500. 26:10founder of buho Mahmud kamani the
  501. 26:14company has made him a
  502. 26:16billionaire surrounded by his bodyguards
  503. 26:19Kanani Jor Revels in the pop star like
  504. 26:24attention we're all thing we want to be
  505. 26:26more than a fashion web right we want to
  506. 26:28be a Lifestyle brand we want to give
  507. 26:31good um meaning to the customer you know
  508. 26:34good values if you have a daughter uh we
  509. 26:36think pretty little things should
  510. 26:38Inspire girls in the right
  511. 26:41way I've got a dress here it's address
  512. 26:44it's
  513. 26:4515 how are you able to do add dress 15
  514. 26:49in It's Made in the UK how do you do
  515. 26:51this yeah we I'm not answering this
  516. 26:54question why I don't want to why it's
  517. 26:57your dress yeah it's PLT how do you do
  518. 26:59this I don't answer the question why why
  519. 27:03I don't have to answer a question do I
  520. 27:05no I'm just asking a simple question how
  521. 27:07is it ask somebody else but you're the
  522. 27:10bus no ask somebody
  523. 27:13else we we know this dress is made by uh
  524. 27:18workers that are paid half half the
  525. 27:20minimum
  526. 27:21wage we know
  527. 27:23that how how do you address
  528. 27:26this
  529. 27:34[Music]
  530. 27:37over stop
  531. 27:41keep keep
  532. 27:50keep after this eventful meeting we
  533. 27:53received a statement from pretty little
  534. 27:55thing all textile work workers a pretty
  535. 27:58little thing are treated fairly and
  536. 28:00receive at least the minimum
  537. 28:02[Music]
  538. 28:17wage producing clothes at such a low
  539. 28:20price comes at a high environmental
  540. 28:23cost the textile industry is the second
  541. 28:26biggest polluter in the the world after
  542. 28:29[Music]
  543. 28:33oil per one part one ton of fabric as we
  544. 28:38call it 200 tons of water polluted so 1
  545. 28:42to 200 is the ratio the more Commerce
  546. 28:46there is the more pollution there's
  547. 28:48going to be without efficient filtration
  548. 28:51and cleanup technology if the fashion
  549. 28:53industry is going to expand by an
  550. 28:55additional 60% in the next 10 years then
  551. 29:00we're going to get 60% more
  552. 29:05pollution under the pressure of public
  553. 29:07opinion the textile industry is trying
  554. 29:09to
  555. 29:10Rebrand at trade shows the color of
  556. 29:13choice is
  557. 29:14green organic sustainable recyclable
  558. 29:18green fashion is in
  559. 29:26trend
  560. 29:31and one particular fabric embodies this
  561. 29:34shift visco cheap artificial silk
  562. 29:38popular with fast fashion
  563. 29:40brands this red dress from Asos and the
  564. 29:43snake print design from boohoo are made
  565. 29:45of 95%
  566. 29:52Visos so this is the
  567. 29:56wood
  568. 29:58from here you make the
  569. 30:00pulp and from there you make
  570. 30:05fiber so that's Vos the sosic fiber and
  571. 30:10from here it became yarn from yarn to
  572. 30:12fabric the process it takes from where
  573. 30:16you Source the wood the kind of
  574. 30:20certifications you fall into all that
  575. 30:22put together helps you a nature-based
  576. 30:25product yeah Visos is more
  577. 30:30eco-friendly Visos is only manufactured
  578. 30:33by a handful of companies around the
  579. 30:36world among them is the adre baa group a
  580. 30:40$40 billion Indian
  581. 30:43conglomerate index H&M Asos all the big
  582. 30:47names by their Visos from
  583. 30:50baa we believe that the planet comes
  584. 30:53first our philosophy of forest of
  585. 30:56fashion ensures that while Visos
  586. 30:59according to biller is a blessing that
  587. 31:02what's good for the planet is what's
  588. 31:05good for
  589. 31:08us but transforming wood into fabric
  590. 31:12requires a huge amount of
  591. 31:15chemicals one of the most dangerous is a
  592. 31:17highly toxic solvent carbon disulfide or
  593. 31:25CS2 well it's marketed as a green
  594. 31:28product is it basically a
  595. 31:32lie yes it's an extremely interesting
  596. 31:37[Music]
  597. 31:39poison the danger emanates from the
  598. 31:42fumes produced to give the Visos its
  599. 31:45threadlike texture CS2 is added to the
  600. 31:48wood pulp which is then immersed in a
  601. 31:50bath of sulfuric
  602. 31:54acid the minute it hits sulfuric acid
  603. 31:57the carbon disulfide
  604. 32:00leaves the cellulose unfortunately where
  605. 32:03it leaves the cellulose too is the work
  606. 32:06room where the workers are working it
  607. 32:08just goes up into the
  608. 32:12air nagta in the Indian state of Madia
  609. 32:16Pradesh is home to the baa group's first
  610. 32:20factory built in
  611. 32:221956 it's a city within a city with a
  612. 32:25Workforce of 5,000 thousand toiling away
  613. 32:28here day and
  614. 32:32night journalists are not
  615. 32:39welcome PA Blanc has assimilated the
  616. 32:42health problems associated with CS2 in a
  617. 32:45book they include eye disease
  618. 32:48infertility and vascular
  619. 32:50problems when I did my work on this book
  620. 32:54I visited the areas in Wales where these
  621. 32:57large factories had been I started to
  622. 32:59get emails from
  623. 33:01people and they would say you
  624. 33:04know my father died at the age of 42
  625. 33:08from a heart attack he worked in the
  626. 33:09factory and doing that we never got a
  627. 33:11penny
  628. 33:15in Ashok pval began working at Baer in
  629. 33:191981 in June 2019 he suffered a heart
  630. 33:23attack which he says was caused by his
  631. 33:26job
  632. 33:29yes yes I consider the company
  633. 33:31responsible the heart attack I had was
  634. 33:34because of my work there I filtered the
  635. 33:39Visos were you given any
  636. 33:43training no I was made to work without
  637. 33:46training they told me to just go ahead
  638. 33:50we filtered the CS2 by hand with
  639. 33:53cloth the company never gave me any
  640. 33:56warning no official ever said anything
  641. 33:59they told me that doing this job was
  642. 34:07safe at the age of 58 Ashok pval is on
  643. 34:11indefinite sick leave without
  644. 34:17pay abishek kazia is one of the few
  645. 34:20residents of nagda to take action
  646. 34:22against the pollution linked to the
  647. 34:24factory a law student filed a complaint
  648. 34:28against the
  649. 34:30company actually they are not allowing
  650. 34:33the people to come inside the company
  651. 34:35they are just always hide the all thing
  652. 34:38in front of the all people nobody can
  653. 34:40take action against them because they
  654. 34:43have too much long
  655. 34:45hand the students complaint alerted the
  656. 34:48regional authorities in January 2020 the
  657. 34:52pollution control agency inspected the
  658. 34:55bill a factory
  659. 34:57the factory was ordered to change its
  660. 35:00practices most importantly officials
  661. 35:02demanded a study of the effects of
  662. 35:04pollution on the health of workers
  663. 35:06looking in particular at Carbon
  664. 35:08disulfide
  665. 35:17CS2 north of nagda along the chambal
  666. 35:20river there are 20,000 people living in
  667. 35:22around 20
  668. 35:25villages
  669. 35:28among them is palmeri located 4 km from
  670. 35:32the
  671. 35:35plant for years the villagers have been
  672. 35:37reporting health
  673. 35:39[Music]
  674. 35:46problems the residents complaints were
  675. 35:49finally taken seriously by the
  676. 35:53authorities today a team of doctors has
  677. 35:55arrived to examine
  678. 35:59residence among the patients is this
  679. 36:02father who came with his two disabled
  680. 36:05[Music]
  681. 36:11Sons these children were born healthy
  682. 36:14they used to be able to walk and go to
  683. 36:16school this one walked to school until
  684. 36:18the sixth grade so his muscles were
  685. 36:21functioning normally but little by
  686. 36:24little they degenerated and now he's in
  687. 36:27a
  688. 36:31[Music]
  689. 36:43wheelchair there are no official
  690. 36:46statistics but many villages show
  691. 36:48similar symptoms paralysis articulation
  692. 36:52problems and even loss of
  693. 36:55speech
  694. 36:57in this single family there are three
  695. 36:59people are suffering from physical
  696. 37:01disability this girl has been uh 26 year
  697. 37:05old and they both brothers are 23 or 24
  698. 37:08years actually they are just physical
  699. 37:11disabled and the growth of the body is
  700. 37:13is
  701. 37:15STP and you just see the hair of that
  702. 37:17girl she is only 26 year
  703. 37:22[Music]
  704. 37:25old
  705. 37:28the government doctors counted 209
  706. 37:31individuals with health complaints
  707. 37:33linked to
  708. 37:36pollution for locals there's one main
  709. 37:39suspect baa they accuse it of having
  710. 37:42dumped its waste into the river for
  711. 37:53decades the village of palak has no
  712. 37:56running water people here drink water
  713. 37:59from Wells fed by the
  714. 38:05river in 2018 Baer began Distributing
  715. 38:08drinking water to villages in the
  716. 38:14area it finances six daily deliveries
  717. 38:18providing 90 L of water for each
  718. 38:25family the companies are availing the
  719. 38:28drinking water why would the company
  720. 38:30give free water to the inhabitants
  721. 38:33because they know that they are
  722. 38:34responsible for the pollution otherwise
  723. 38:36why they are just providing the water to
  724. 38:38the uh not this Village they providing
  725. 38:4122 Village and they know that they are
  726. 38:43responsible for the pollution and they
  727. 38:45only provide the water for drinking
  728. 38:47purpose not other
  729. 38:49[Music]
  730. 38:52uses to water their fields the farmers
  731. 38:55in palic still use polluted water from
  732. 38:58the
  733. 38:59river in January 2020 the authorities
  734. 39:02ordered biller to improve the water
  735. 39:04quality Downstream from the
  736. 39:07plant but biller denies all
  737. 39:10responsibility insisting that any
  738. 39:12pollution is unrelated to visco's
  739. 39:20production meanwhile Global demand for
  740. 39:23Visos is soaring the factory in nagda
  741. 39:26has plans to expand capacity and its
  742. 39:33[Music]
  743. 39:38facilities the fashion industry wants us
  744. 39:41to believe it has increasingly
  745. 39:42sustainable credentials but in reality
  746. 39:46the opposite is the case the lifespan of
  747. 39:49a fast fashioned garment is short and
  748. 39:51not only because in some cases things
  749. 39:53are only worn once and then discarded
  750. 39:58this garment has not been worn very
  751. 40:00often but you can already see signs of
  752. 40:03pilling around the
  753. 40:04hips with this dress the fibers have
  754. 40:07quickly become worn out so it no longer
  755. 40:10looks
  756. 40:14new when it comes to these fast fashion
  757. 40:17items you couldn't sell them in a
  758. 40:19secondhand store
  759. 40:25either
  760. 40:29under 1% of our clothing can be recycled
  761. 40:33every year 4 million tons of textiles
  762. 40:36end up in the trash here in
  763. 40:42Europe can we stop this fast fashion
  764. 40:47craziness there are small Brands
  765. 40:49supporting slow fashion clothes of a
  766. 40:52higher fairer and more sustainable
  767. 40:55quality
  768. 40:59efforts that soon reach their limits
  769. 41:01because slow fashion seems to have a
  770. 41:03limited
  771. 41:04appeal Studies by the French fashion
  772. 41:07institute revealed that stores with less
  773. 41:10new items simply see a lower Financial
  774. 41:15[Music]
  775. 41:19turnover if I had a dollar for every
  776. 41:21time somebody asked me tell me what I
  777. 41:23should
  778. 41:24buy I say no nothing
  779. 41:28nothing you have way too much stuff
  780. 41:31already but now what do we do what do we
  781. 41:34say stop spending money this is not a
  782. 41:37viable economic solution not shopping is
  783. 41:39not a solution to the industry so fast
  784. 41:43fashion will continue to be popular and
  785. 41:46it will continue to show strides towards
  786. 41:49improving towards circularity so we
  787. 41:52might see minor improvements in product
  788. 41:55development but we will not see the end
  789. 41:57of fast
  790. 41:59[Music]
  791. 42:07[Music]
  792. 42:17[Music]
  793. 42:25fashion

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