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Dan Mazur SummitClimb Mount Everest Rescue of Lincoln Hall — Transcript

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  1. 0:00that's where i was
  2. 0:04lincoln's lack begins to change whatever
  3. 0:07way you look at it it was a very strange
  4. 0:09set of circumstances
  5. 0:12i've been left for dead and yet at one
  6. 0:15level my mind was connecting
  7. 0:18there's all this stuff still happening
  8. 0:19in my head and it's all very vivid
  9. 0:23determined not to die lincoln's
  10. 0:25subconscious begins to fight back
  11. 0:28he starts to hallucinate
  12. 0:32it was a case of me rejecting death
  13. 0:36and insisting on life and the way that
  14. 0:38was expressed to me
  15. 0:40was i was wearing a grey cloak and that
  16. 0:43cloak was
  17. 0:44like a cloak the cloak of death that was
  18. 0:46welcoming me
  19. 0:47and i was wearing it and
  20. 0:50and i knew i had to accept the cold and
  21. 0:53whatever else
  22. 0:54was going to happen if i put that cloak
  23. 0:57away
  24. 0:59and then i felt like then i felt like a
  25. 1:02pilgrim i suppose someone who
  26. 1:04who knows where they've got to go who's
  27. 1:07doesn't know what the journey is going
  28. 1:08to be but knows that's his only choice
  29. 1:11in life
  30. 1:15[Music]
  31. 1:17i'm not arrogant enough to think that
  32. 1:19i'm so special that i can
  33. 1:22just decide i'm not going to die and not
  34. 1:24die
  35. 1:26i had to believe that i wasn't going to
  36. 1:28die because otherwise i would not have
  37. 1:29been able to
  38. 1:30face that impossible set of
  39. 1:32circumstances
  40. 1:34the hypothermia the hypoxia the
  41. 1:36exhaustion
  42. 1:37the dehydration the cerebral edema
  43. 1:40it was a death sentence and i had to
  44. 1:43utilize
  45. 1:44everything that i'd learned over three
  46. 1:45decades of mountaineering
  47. 1:54drawing on years of buddhist meditation
  48. 1:57and yogic breathing techniques
  49. 1:59lincoln is able to remain conscious in
  50. 2:02spite of hypothermia
  51. 2:09soon the sun came and there was this
  52. 2:11amazing
  53. 2:13life-giving warmth
  54. 2:18after 30 hours in the death zone at
  55. 2:20minus 25 degrees
  56. 2:23lincoln hall should really be dead
  57. 2:26hallucinating wildly he is in the final
  58. 2:29dangerous stages of hypothermia
  59. 2:31and is still a long way from safety but
  60. 2:34his lucky streak continues
  61. 2:36there was so much good fortune the most
  62. 2:38dramatic was the appearance of
  63. 2:40a team of four climbers who were heading
  64. 2:42for the summit
  65. 2:43[Music]
  66. 2:46unlike david sharp who died 10 days
  67. 2:49earlier lincoln is fully conscious
  68. 2:51moving around and clearly visible to the
  69. 2:54approaching mountaineers
  70. 2:56climbing that morning is a team led by
  71. 2:58american guide
  72. 3:00dan mazur with jang bu sherpa andrew
  73. 3:03brash
  74. 3:03and miles osborne um i was kind of
  75. 3:06staring down on my feet as you do
  76. 3:08because
  77. 3:09you know you're just so focused on one
  78. 3:10foot in front of the other
  79. 3:12and i kind of looked up and then i saw
  80. 3:14this kind of yellow
  81. 3:15kind of blob sitting up there on the
  82. 3:17ridge and i was just completely
  83. 3:19um dumbstruck i didn't know what to
  84. 3:21think hey
  85. 3:22what are you doing here we went up to
  86. 3:24him and the first thing that he said was
  87. 3:25i bet you're surprised to see me here
  88. 3:27[Music]
  89. 3:30and that was the thing that completely
  90. 3:31threw me when miles and his party found
  91. 3:34me that morning
  92. 3:35they were stunned to see that i had
  93. 3:38unzipped my
  94. 3:39down suit and was half undressed there
  95. 3:41are two possible reasons
  96. 3:42one is that i was rejecting the cloak of
  97. 3:45death
  98. 3:46and the other is that i was in the final
  99. 3:47stages of hypothermia
  100. 3:49about to die up to 50 of hypothermia
  101. 3:53victims are found with their clothes
  102. 3:55off it's called paradoxical undressing
  103. 3:58when death is imminent blood returns to
  104. 4:01the extremities
  105. 4:02in a rush producing the sensation of a
  106. 4:04hot flush
  107. 4:05i don't think it even crossed anybody's
  108. 4:07mind until that point as to well would
  109. 4:09we go to the summit or not
  110. 4:14lincoln hope we found a climber
  111. 4:18i'm saying his name's lincoln hall i was
  112. 4:20behaving erratically
  113. 4:22not that i was aware of it the first
  114. 4:24thing they did was to secure me to a
  115. 4:25rope
  116. 4:26i want to get i want to get off the boat
  117. 4:29at the time he seemed to think that he
  118. 4:30was on a boat and the one thing that he
  119. 4:32was desperately trying to do
  120. 4:33frozen fingers and all was to try and
  121. 4:35pull himself off the ridge there
  122. 4:37to try and kind of disembark from the
  123. 4:38boat which obviously wasn't the best of
  124. 4:40ideas at the time because it was about a
  125. 4:42ten thousand foot drop
  126. 4:52down at advanced base camp kevin has had
  127. 4:55a bad night
  128. 4:57yesterday was a horrible day
  129. 5:00we lost two very very good friends um
  130. 5:03thomas in the morning
  131. 5:04and then a hell of a day with lincoln
  132. 5:08last night i went to bed and i'll be
  133. 5:11honest i shed some tears in my tent for
  134. 5:13them
  135. 5:14i just couldn't believe that we lost two
  136. 5:15friends on the mountain
  137. 5:18today i woke up and as you can see it's
  138. 5:20a beautiful day on everest
  139. 5:22went out to alex and heard the news
  140. 5:26that uh the lincoln is still alive
  141. 5:30so alex instantly launched a rescue
  142. 5:35and currently these amazing guys from
  143. 5:37nepal
  144. 5:38are climbing up there to hopefully bring
  145. 5:41our friend down
  146. 5:45miles and his colleagues stay with
  147. 5:47lincoln for four hours
  148. 5:49just before we saw lincoln i firmly
  149. 5:52believed at that moment that there was
  150. 5:53nothing that could stop us from reaching
  151. 5:55the summit
  152. 5:57the time spent with him has meant their
  153. 5:59precious oxygen supply has depleted
  154. 6:01and it's now too late in the day to
  155. 6:04continue
  156. 6:06after years of saving to raise the 25
  157. 6:09000
  158. 6:10he needed for the expedition it's all
  159. 6:12over
  160. 6:13for miles i knew then that in my
  161. 6:15lifetime i was never ever going to get
  162. 6:16to the summit
  163. 6:17i took one last look took a picture and
  164. 6:19then got down as fast as possible
  165. 6:21i was so pissed off i can't even tell
  166. 6:23you
  167. 6:26i know what it's like to turn back from
  168. 6:28the summit i know that
  169. 6:29sort of huge burning sense of
  170. 6:31disappointment
  171. 6:33and i do know that miles
  172. 6:36felt that as well it took me
  173. 6:39uh 24 hours to get the perspective that
  174. 6:43in the big picture everything had worked
  175. 6:44out fine the summit missing or something
  176. 6:46didn't bother me that much
  177. 6:47lincoln was okay um and i got so many
  178. 6:50emails from friends at home who had said
  179. 6:52i don't know what i would have done if
  180. 6:54i'd read that you've left this guy and
  181. 6:55going on to the summit
  182. 7:00base camp face cam do you receive over
  183. 7:04due to a radio blackout kevin is unable
  184. 7:07to transmit the good news
  185. 7:10base camp base camp from abc over
  186. 7:14this family believes he's dead
  187. 7:17and yet the man is almost having a
  188. 7:20fistfight
  189. 7:21with the shepherds that are trying to
  190. 7:23bring him down it's almost comical if he
  191. 7:26wasn't so sad
  192. 7:28base camp base camp do you receive over
  193. 7:32because we all know this up here but his
  194. 7:35friends down at base camp
  195. 7:37uh going through hell believing their
  196. 7:38friend is dead
  197. 7:41and i can't tell them base camp base
  198. 7:43camp do you receive over
  199. 7:45it's several hours before kevin
  200. 7:47eventually gets through to base camp
  201. 7:49and from there the good news spreads
  202. 7:51around the world
  203. 7:52people in our office in sydney saying
  204. 7:54they'd heard somewhere on the
  205. 7:56by the internet that they certainly come
  206. 7:59up your life
  207. 8:01and my immediate response to that was no
  208. 8:04don't go there don't clutch onto that
  209. 8:05given we've just been through the trough
  210. 8:07of death
  211. 8:08and then until we found out for sure
  212. 8:11what was going on
  213. 8:18well i was just generally uh surfing the
  214. 8:20net
  215. 8:21someone emailed me a bunch of music
  216. 8:23saying
  217. 8:24stuff about my dad and it hadn't on the
  218. 8:26front page
  219. 8:27everest climb i found alive and had a
  220. 8:30picture of dad there
  221. 8:34it was stated as fact that he was alive
  222. 8:39and so we we breathed heavily for a
  223. 8:43while and
  224. 8:44and thought we couldn't believe it
  225. 8:54after 36 hours of fighting for his life
  226. 8:57lincoln hall makes his momentous arrival
  227. 9:00at advanced base camp
  228. 9:02he is exhausted and emotionally drained
  229. 9:06kevin ogilo is there to capture the
  230. 9:08moment
  231. 9:11where are you the bloody filmmakers
  232. 9:16i mean i'm alive now i got some more
  233. 9:18frost part to it to my collection
  234. 9:20it's good really because my kids have
  235. 9:21never seen fresh frostbite
  236. 9:30you'll be so proud to have the flag
  237. 9:34there
  238. 9:37i almost left my children without a
  239. 9:40father
  240. 9:40and my wife without a husband and
  241. 9:44had that happened i could not even
  242. 9:47begin to think about forgiving myself
  243. 9:51which was why i just had to come back
  244. 9:55yeah hi there i only got the opportunity
  245. 9:58to talk to barbara once i was down
  246. 10:02an advanced base camp so apparently i'm
  247. 10:04getting on the hatch soon
  248. 10:06um lincoln's voice was so
  249. 10:10unrecognizable faint croaky
  250. 10:13crackly that i wasn't sure
  251. 10:16it was him tell her you're well come on
  252. 10:19because i'm well people are saying i'm
  253. 10:20well later so i need to tell you
  254. 10:22she couldn't believe it was me and what
  255. 10:25i did was i said well because it's me
  256. 10:26i hope you haven't started looking for
  257. 10:28another husband
  258. 10:30i thought well that really that really
  259. 10:32is
  260. 10:33that's him that's him this footage shows
  261. 10:36lincoln
  262. 10:36finally reaching base camp after
  263. 10:40two months on everest the expedition is
  264. 10:42over
  265. 10:4522 years on lincoln hall has achieved
  266. 10:48his dream
  267. 10:50but his greatest achievement was not
  268. 10:52reaching the summit
  269. 10:54but getting down alive his first
  270. 10:57priority is to find the sherpas who
  271. 11:00helped save his life
  272. 11:02i just wanted to to thank them so much
  273. 11:05for for what they had done because they
  274. 11:08really had risked their lives for me
  275. 11:11[Music]
  276. 11:12if pember or any of the other sherpas
  277. 11:15had died and i survived
  278. 11:17[Music]
  279. 11:20would be the most dreadful outcome
  280. 11:22possible
  281. 11:24that would just be the worst thing i can
  282. 11:26think of
  283. 11:28pember was the only uh sherpa that i was
  284. 11:31able
  285. 11:32to see as soon as i got down
  286. 11:34[Music]
  287. 11:40he just kept telling me don't worry
  288. 11:43you're alive don't worry it's okay
  289. 11:46and uh and i think they were just so
  290. 11:49happy that that what they had done
  291. 11:52it saved my life
  292. 11:55with the trophy of climbing everest so
  293. 11:57highly prized
  294. 11:59the 2006 season of death is unlikely to
  295. 12:03be the last
  296. 12:04lincoln hall's return from the dead on
  297. 12:07everest is a miracle
  298. 12:09he should have frozen to death but he
  299. 12:11didn't
  300. 12:12he should have died from cerebral edema
  301. 12:15but he didn't
  302. 12:16his survival still eludes explanation by
  303. 12:20medical science
  304. 12:21and it's something he's still coming to
  305. 12:23terms with
  306. 12:24one thing that's helped me to deal with
  307. 12:26that is to is the tibetan buddhist
  308. 12:29interpretation of of the nature of death
  309. 12:32which is that consciousness
  310. 12:34leaves the body you know in different
  311. 12:37stages and there's eight of those stages
  312. 12:39and it's basically a shutting down a bit
  313. 12:40like you do when you get out of your
  314. 12:42helicopter you turn this off and you
  315. 12:43turn that off and the whirring starts to
  316. 12:44go
  317. 12:45quieter and quieter well i i went
  318. 12:48through the
  319. 12:48two of those levels i can take two of
  320. 12:50those boxes in terms of
  321. 12:52consciousness leaving me now the big
  322. 12:54question is
  323. 12:56what caused the reverse i just don't
  324. 12:58[Music]
  325. 13:04know
  326. 13:08[Music]
  327. 13:18you

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