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Chapter 9 - Tides — Transcript

by Jeffrey Ashley · 5,851 words · 860 segments · language en · Watch on YouTube

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  1. 0:00Hello, my name is Dr. Jeff Ashley and
  2. 0:02welcome to chapter 9. Chapter 9 deals
  3. 0:05with tides and most of us have seen
  4. 0:07tides or interacted with them before.
  5. 0:10So, what causes tides? Tides are
  6. 0:13periodic raising and lowering of the
  7. 0:15ocean sea level. They occur daily and
  8. 0:19they can really be traced back to a
  9. 0:21phenomenon that involves gravitational
  10. 0:24laws that were explained by Isaac
  11. 0:26Newton. There's also some other things
  12. 0:28driving that by pra primarily it's a
  13. 0:31gravitational influence. Tides are
  14. 0:34caused by a combination of gravity and
  15. 0:36also motion between the earth, moon and
  16. 0:38the sun system. Let's first introduce
  17. 0:41this idea of a barisenter. A beer center
  18. 0:44between specifically the moon and the
  19. 0:46earth system. It's a common center of
  20. 0:49mass or a balance point and it's beneath
  21. 0:51the earth's surface. Let's take a look
  22. 0:53at this diagram to get a better idea of
  23. 0:55what bareris center
  24. 0:57is. Okay, so you have the moon and the
  25. 1:00earth and it's a system that is rotating
  26. 1:03around each other. However, because of
  27. 1:07the earth's larger mass versus the moon,
  28. 1:10we end up with a rotation system here
  29. 1:13that is centered around this beer
  30. 1:15center. And as we said previously that
  31. 1:18it is existing this point in time or
  32. 1:21this point on earth is existing beneath
  33. 1:24the earth's surface. So there it is
  34. 1:27uh it is the balance point of these two
  35. 1:30entities the earth and the moon. So the
  36. 1:33center isn't a true center here. The
  37. 1:36center is right here and that's barac
  38. 1:38center. And in your book it says it's
  39. 1:40akin to a sledgehammer where you have
  40. 1:43the weighty earth over here as that
  41. 1:46leaded head of the sledgehammer and the
  42. 1:48moon is lighter and over here. When you
  43. 1:51throw that sledgehammer into the air and
  44. 1:54start rotating it, it actually rotates a
  45. 1:57little weird because of that bear
  46. 1:59center. It's not a rotation that's like
  47. 2:01this. It's a rotation that is a little
  48. 2:04offkilter, which means, and I like this
  49. 2:08diagram better, we have the Earth Moon
  50. 2:11system that is not moving in a straight
  51. 2:14path around the Sun, but it's orbiting
  52. 2:17in a way that because of that bear
  53. 2:19center, you get this little hoppy motion
  54. 2:23that is based on that throwing of the
  55. 2:25sledgehammer like movement. So, let's
  56. 2:28play out this short video on that
  57. 2:30movement around the sun of the Earth and
  58. 2:35the Moon system. Well, to do this
  59. 2:37activity, you only need four simple
  60. 2:38things. You need a lamp with a shade
  61. 2:40removed, a white foam ball, a pencil,
  62. 2:44and a dark room. The darker the room,
  63. 2:47the better. Now, in this model, the lamp
  64. 2:50is going to represent the sun. And of
  65. 2:52course, the white foam ball is going to
  66. 2:53represent the moon. And your head is
  67. 2:56going to represent the earth. So, let me
  68. 2:58show you how this
  69. 3:02works. We know that the moon orbits the
  70. 3:05earth. So, in this model, I'm going to
  71. 3:07get the moon, the foam ball, to orbit
  72. 3:09the earth, my head.
  73. 3:13Notice that no matter where the moon is
  74. 3:15in its orbit, half of it is always lit
  75. 3:17up by the
  76. 3:20sun. But when the moon is in this
  77. 3:23position, I can't see any of the lighted
  78. 3:26side of the moon from
  79. 3:27Earth. My head
  80. 3:32from this angle, you can see what I am
  81. 3:34seeing from Earth. We call this new
  82. 3:36moon. When it's new moon, we look up at
  83. 3:39the sky and we can't see the moon. It's
  84. 3:41there, but the side that's reflecting
  85. 3:43sunlight is away from us. Now, as I
  86. 3:46slowly make the moon orbit to my left, I
  87. 3:48can begin to see a tiny sliver of that
  88. 3:50lighted side. We call that a crescent
  89. 3:53moon. As the moon keeps orbiting, we can
  90. 3:56see more and more of that lighted side.
  91. 3:58We see half of the lighted half, which
  92. 4:01is a quarter moon. In this case, a first
  93. 4:03quarter
  94. 4:05moon. As we keep orbiting, we see almost
  95. 4:08the whole lighted side. We call that a
  96. 4:10gibbus
  97. 4:12moon. Then when we can see the entire
  98. 4:14lighted half of the moon, that's a full
  99. 4:17moon. As the moon continues in its
  100. 4:20orbit, we begin to see less and less of
  101. 4:22that lighted side. We're back to a
  102. 4:24gibbous moon, but this time the light is
  103. 4:27on the opposite
  104. 4:33side. Then another quarter moon, last
  105. 4:37quarter moon to be exact.
  106. 4:41Another
  107. 4:45crescent and finally back to new
  108. 4:48moon. Kind of cool. You can do this at
  109. 4:51home if you want. Maybe you already did
  110. 4:52this in elementary school or high
  111. 4:54school, but it actually shows the Earth
  112. 4:57moon system in its rotation around the
  113. 5:00sun. So, let's go back to that diagram.
  114. 5:03So, what we were seeing there was
  115. 5:05actually a full lunar cycle. So we're
  116. 5:08actually just looking at this cycle
  117. 5:10right here. And a lunar cycle takes
  118. 5:13around 29 12
  119. 5:15days. Okay. So we said what's driving
  120. 5:18the tides and that was largely
  121. 5:20gravitational forces. So let's just
  122. 5:22refresh our memory on gravity.
  123. 5:24Gravitational force is derived from
  124. 5:26Newton's law of universal gravitation.
  125. 5:28And it says that every object that has a
  126. 5:31mass in the universe is attracted to
  127. 5:33every other object that has a mass. And
  128. 5:35in fact you can remember maybe from
  129. 5:37physics class that that force of
  130. 5:40attraction is proportional to the
  131. 5:42product of the two masses of those
  132. 5:44entities and it's inversely proportional
  133. 5:48to the square of the distance. So larger
  134. 5:51the mass the greater the force of
  135. 5:53attraction or gravitational forces.
  136. 5:56However the distance is important as
  137. 5:58well. As you go to greater greater diff
  138. 6:00distances you decrease that
  139. 6:02gravitational force. Okay. So let's just
  140. 6:05take the Earth Moon system again. Here's
  141. 6:07the Earth. Here's the moon. We said that
  142. 6:10there's a gravitational force that's
  143. 6:12happening here because the distance over
  144. 6:16here, let's just say we're on this side
  145. 6:17of the Earth. Look at the distance
  146. 6:20between the Earth's surface and the
  147. 6:22center of the
  148. 6:23moon. It's the shortest distance
  149. 6:26possible. Okay, here take a look. That
  150. 6:30distance is much larger. It is the
  151. 6:33larger distance or the largest distance
  152. 6:35away from the moon at that point in
  153. 6:37time. We've got two names, new names
  154. 6:40here. The zenith is called the point on
  155. 6:42earth closest to the moon at that
  156. 6:44particular point in time. It's not
  157. 6:46always there. The earth is rotating. And
  158. 6:49the nater or nadir is the point on earth
  159. 6:52furthest from the moon. So the greatest
  160. 6:55force gravitational force will be acting
  161. 6:58at the zenith. The least gravitational
  162. 7:00force on earth will be acting at the
  163. 7:04nadir. It's not all gravitational force.
  164. 7:06We got to throw in another force and
  165. 7:09that other force is called centropedal.
  166. 7:11Not centrifugal but centripedal. And
  167. 7:14this is said to be the center seeking
  168. 7:16force. If you have a object with a mass
  169. 7:19and you're swinging it along, this is
  170. 7:21what centripedal force is. It keeps our
  171. 7:23planets and that little ball in orbit
  172. 7:26via gravitational attraction.
  173. 7:28Essentially, it's tethering the Earth
  174. 7:30and the Moon
  175. 7:33together. If you look at centripedal
  176. 7:35forces, here's what you come up with.
  177. 7:38They're all in the same direction. These
  178. 7:40vectors are showing them at various
  179. 7:43locations on Earth. All in the same
  180. 7:45direction, pointing horizontally to that
  181. 7:48entity called the moon. And actually,
  182. 7:51they are all of the same length. So,
  183. 7:53those forces are exactly the same around
  184. 7:57the Earth. take you back to this one
  185. 7:59because look at this was gravitational
  186. 8:01forces and these are the vectors
  187. 8:03represented them representing them. The
  188. 8:06longest vector is here. So that is the
  189. 8:09strongest gravitational force at that
  190. 8:11point in time. And look at the
  191. 8:13directionality. It's directed right to
  192. 8:15the center of the moon. You get a little
  193. 8:17less gravitational pull as you get
  194. 8:19further away from it. That makes sense.
  195. 8:21So a shorter vector here. But look at
  196. 8:23the directionality. It's not horizontal
  197. 8:26like the centripedal forces. It is
  198. 8:30directed towards the center of the mass.
  199. 8:32And again, right here, furthest away
  200. 8:34from the moon, you've got the shortest
  201. 8:36vector, but again, it's pointed to the
  202. 8:38center of mass. So, let's bring these
  203. 8:41two things together, centripedal forces
  204. 8:44and gravitational forces, and we get
  205. 8:47resultant forces. So, this is the
  206. 8:49mathematical difference between the
  207. 8:51gravitational and the centripedal
  208. 8:53forces. Essentially, we're looking at
  209. 8:55the resultant force in in blue here. How
  210. 8:58did you get that or how did they get it?
  211. 9:01They took an
  212. 9:04arrow starting at the tip of the
  213. 9:07centripedal force and going to the tip
  214. 9:10of the grav gravitational attraction of
  215. 9:12the moon. So, you draw that from tip to
  216. 9:15tip. Start with the red arrow going to
  217. 9:17the black arrow and the resultant forces
  218. 9:20there. So, look at that one. It's
  219. 9:21directed. It's a little vector but it's
  220. 9:23directed up. Let's do the same thing
  221. 9:27from the red to the black and the
  222. 9:30resultant force is in blue. Ah, okay.
  223. 9:32So, it's a horizontal
  224. 9:34line that is directed towards the moon
  225. 9:37over here. This is the oddball one.
  226. 9:39Again, you're going from the tip of the
  227. 9:41red to the tip of the black. Whoa.
  228. 9:44Notice that the resultant force is away
  229. 9:47from the moon. But is it equal in
  230. 9:50magnitude or strength? So equal in
  231. 9:53magnitude but opposite directions. So
  232. 9:56you see that some of these resultant
  233. 9:58forces are moving away from the moon.
  234. 10:01Some of them are directed towards the
  235. 10:03moon. So let's take a look at what this
  236. 10:06resultant force is. So it's a resulting
  237. 10:09force from the centripedal forces and
  238. 10:12the gravitational attraction of the
  239. 10:14moon. And it actually is what delivers
  240. 10:18the tidal forces. So let's start with a
  241. 10:21nonrotating earth here. And how are
  242. 10:23tides generated? The resultant force
  243. 10:26that we saw there has significant
  244. 10:28horizontal component. It pulls water
  245. 10:31because water can move and stretch along
  246. 10:35both towards the moon and away from the
  247. 10:37moon on the other side. So water being
  248. 10:40fluid can move and you get these bulges,
  249. 10:43these two bulges on one side of the
  250. 10:45earth towards the moon and the other
  251. 10:48side of the earth away from the moon. So
  252. 10:51imagine I like saying it's like pulling
  253. 10:53out your shirt like this. You're bulging
  254. 10:55that, right? But I'm bulging it towards
  255. 10:58the moon and I'm bulging it away from
  256. 11:00the
  257. 11:01moon. This isn't a non-rotating Earth
  258. 11:04right now. We're going to have to start
  259. 11:06rotating it to make it more realistic
  260. 11:08and see what happens. So, let's put the
  261. 11:11Earth in motion because it is rotating.
  262. 11:14And let me stand up again and bulge my
  263. 11:16shirt out. So, that represent the bulges
  264. 11:19of water. But my body is rotating, but
  265. 11:22those bulges are staying in the same
  266. 11:24position. So you can imagine that as my
  267. 11:27body rotates, which represents the
  268. 11:29rotation of the earth, but those bulges
  269. 11:31are staying the same, you're going to
  270. 11:34get this uh issue of tidal bulges and
  271. 11:37tidal bulge movement. It results when a
  272. 11:39force pushes water into two simultaneous
  273. 11:42bulges. We said one towards the moon,
  274. 11:44one away from the moon. These are called
  275. 11:46lunar bulges. And they arise, as we
  276. 11:49said, from centropedal and gravitational
  277. 11:51forces. So people start off with a
  278. 11:54simple situation where the moon exists
  279. 11:57right here over the equator. We're going
  280. 11:59to see that that's not true. Uh and we
  281. 12:01start off with a uh idealized earth that
  282. 12:05is just all water. There's no continents
  283. 12:08because continents then influence tides
  284. 12:10as well.
  285. 12:12So on this side of the earth, water
  286. 12:14bulges away. On this side, it bulges
  287. 12:17towards the moon. And again, let's put
  288. 12:19this spinning Earth into uh motion here.
  289. 12:22You can imagine if you're here at one
  290. 12:24point in time, you're going to receive
  291. 12:27this tidal bulge, aka a higher tide. But
  292. 12:31as that Earth spins, right, you're
  293. 12:33spinning with it. You're going to
  294. 12:36encounter an area that's not close to
  295. 12:40that moon side or opposite side. And
  296. 12:43that has there's no tidal bulge there,
  297. 12:46right? It's actually like that, the
  298. 12:48skinny part where there's no bulge, and
  299. 12:51that's called low tide. So, let's look
  300. 12:53up some terminology on the moon's tidal
  301. 12:55bulges. A tidal period is said to be the
  302. 12:58time between high tides.
  303. 13:01Okay? So, you go from a high tide to a
  304. 13:04low tide and back to a high tide. That
  305. 13:06tidal period is from high to high. A
  306. 13:08lunar day, I mentioned this before, it's
  307. 13:10the time between two successive overhead
  308. 13:13moons. That's 24 hours, but a little
  309. 13:17more. 24 hours and 50 minutes. 24 hours
  310. 13:21is our solar
  311. 13:23day. But a lunar day is 24 hours and 50
  312. 13:27minutes. This explains why you get high
  313. 13:29and low tides that change all the time.
  314. 13:32And it explains why you need tidal
  315. 13:34charts to predict these. They're out of
  316. 13:37phase by about 50 minutes. So, I'm at
  317. 13:41the beach this week. uh high tide maybe
  318. 13:43was at 400 pm today. Tomorrow it will be
  319. 13:474:00 p p.m. uh 4:50 p.m. So let's look
  320. 13:51at this lunar day and we said that it's
  321. 13:54not like a solar day. Um and let's
  322. 13:57position ourselves here. Uh this is
  323. 14:00looking down. So you're looking down on
  324. 14:02the north pole. So let's position oursel
  325. 14:04uh somewhere on the equator here and
  326. 14:06start the earth rotating. So here we
  327. 14:09are. Uh the earth and the moon here have
  328. 14:13influence and we see that oh yeah we're
  329. 14:15in a tidal bulge area. So that would be
  330. 14:18a high tide. But as the earth rotates
  331. 14:21and we're going to rotate it 6 hours
  332. 14:23later that we have moved over here.
  333. 14:25We're in an area that's not a tidal
  334. 14:28bulge. It's the skinny part. So we
  335. 14:31experiencing not high tides but low
  336. 14:33tides. Uh then we come back 12 hours
  337. 14:36later and we're opposite side here.
  338. 14:37Remember, tidal bulges are pretty much
  339. 14:40equal on either side. The moon facing
  340. 14:42side and the non-moon facing side. 6
  341. 14:45hours later, we're over here. We were in
  342. 14:48a high tide situation here and a low
  343. 14:50tide
  344. 14:50situation. Come back to our starting
  345. 14:53point and that would be a solar day, 24
  346. 14:55hours, but the moon is now actually over
  347. 14:59here. So, the moon has gone over here.
  348. 15:02So, that explains this lunar cycle of 24
  349. 15:05hours plus 50 minutes.
  350. 15:08So tidal bulges, we just saw that
  351. 15:10because of centripedal force and
  352. 15:12gravitational force with the Earth Moon
  353. 15:15system that seems to be developing these
  354. 15:18tidal bulges. Well, they are, but
  355. 15:20they're lunar tidal bulges caused by the
  356. 15:22moon. What about the sun? The sun is a
  357. 15:25pretty big mass. Do we have gradu
  358. 15:27gravitational attraction towards that
  359. 15:29and maybe some bulges because of it?
  360. 15:32Yes, they're similar to lunar bulges.
  361. 15:35So, they're solar bulges, but they're
  362. 15:37about half the size. This is because the
  363. 15:40sun, although it's 27 million times more
  364. 15:42massive than the moon, it's further
  365. 15:45away. It's 390 times further from the
  366. 15:48Earth. So, it's got a big mass. You
  367. 15:50would think a lot of gravitational pull
  368. 15:52and effect, a lot of bulges, but no,
  369. 15:55that distance actually negates or
  370. 15:57offsets that power of the gravitational
  371. 15:59force. So the moon's closer distance to
  372. 16:02the earth results in moon exerting more
  373. 16:04control over the earth's tides than the
  374. 16:07sun. But we got to take into
  375. 16:09consideration that the sun does have an
  376. 16:11influence and does manage to bulge the
  377. 16:14sea as well. Well, here you have a
  378. 16:16figure that just explains what I said
  379. 16:19about the relative size of the moon, the
  380. 16:21earth and the sun. Sun is massive in its
  381. 16:26mass. However, the distances come into
  382. 16:29play here. So if you look at the force
  383. 16:32of
  384. 16:33gravitation and that equals a
  385. 16:36proportionality to between the two
  386. 16:38masses and also divided by the distance
  387. 16:42that distance here because it's so huge
  388. 16:45is making that solar bulge lesser of an
  389. 16:49impact than the uh lunar bulge.
  390. 16:54some other terms we have to deal with
  391. 16:56here um as the earth's rotation and the
  392. 16:59tides are influenced here. So we have a
  393. 17:02high tide um when we say it's a flood
  394. 17:05tide or a flooding tide water moved
  395. 17:08towards the shore. So if you're standing
  396. 17:09on the shore like again I'm at the beach
  397. 17:11here high tide that tide is rising. Okay
  398. 17:15so that's a flooding tide. Imagine like
  399. 17:17a flood would come in it is like moving
  400. 17:19water up and up and up and increasing
  401. 17:21your sea level
  402. 17:23momentarily. When something is said to
  403. 17:25be ebbing it's moving away for the shore
  404. 17:28shore or going away. So an ebbing tide
  405. 17:31is one that is going from high tide back
  406. 17:34to a low tide. A flooding tide is going
  407. 17:36from a low tide to a high tide. The
  408. 17:39tidal bulges are fixed relative to the
  409. 17:42sun and the moose moon's positions and
  410. 17:45the earth's rotation moves differently
  411. 17:48according to geographic locations into
  412. 17:50those
  413. 17:52bulges. Some other terminology here you
  414. 17:54might have heard about tidal range or I
  415. 17:57call it tidal excursion. It's the
  416. 17:59difference in height between the high
  417. 18:01and the low tides. So tidal excursion
  418. 18:04around Philadelphia area. If you go down
  419. 18:06to the Delaware River or even parts of
  420. 18:09the Skooko River before the Museum of
  421. 18:11Art because there's a dam there, you
  422. 18:13will see title ranges or excursions on
  423. 18:16the order of four or five feet in
  424. 18:19certain
  425. 18:20places. We'll see this and it will come
  426. 18:22into play in a moment that you can have
  427. 18:24the moon, Earth, and Sun align just like
  428. 18:27in that little video we watched. That
  429. 18:30term is called sissyagy. It's a really
  430. 18:33cool word um and difficult to say sisy
  431. 18:37when the moon is in its first or the
  432. 18:41third quarter phase here. So it's not
  433. 18:43aligned. The earth, moon, sun system is
  434. 18:46not aligned on one plane. It's offset.
  435. 18:49It's perpendicular. We call that
  436. 18:51quadriure. We're going to look at some
  437. 18:54diagrams to make
  438. 18:57that more clear. So here we have the
  439. 19:01monthly title cycle and it explains some
  440. 19:04of our tide
  441. 19:06terminology. When we have that
  442. 19:09means the sun and the moon either the
  443. 19:12new moon or the full moon align on the
  444. 19:15same plane as the earth. So the earth
  445. 19:17moon sun system are along that same
  446. 19:19plane. We said that with What
  447. 19:22happens here? We get the exertion of
  448. 19:24both the lunar bulges and the solar
  449. 19:28bulges. So here we have overlaid both
  450. 19:31the lunar tidal bulges and then a little
  451. 19:34extra here from the solar bulges. So
  452. 19:36it's like an extra extra bulge thanks to
  453. 19:39now both the moon we learned that before
  454. 19:41and now we have to bring in the bulge
  455. 19:42from the sun. So under this condition
  456. 19:46when you have alignment or sisy we have
  457. 19:49a new or full moon we've got the
  458. 19:51greatest tidal ranges or the greatest
  459. 19:54height of our high tides. This is called
  460. 19:57a spring tide. And you might have heard
  461. 19:59about this certainly influences when we
  462. 20:01have a hurricane coming through because
  463. 20:03if that hurricane does happen on a
  464. 20:06spring tide and we have and we may have
  465. 20:09a storm surge that'll heighten the sea
  466. 20:12level even more. Not good. Totally
  467. 20:16opposite when you're in quadriure. So
  468. 20:18the sun, the earth, and the moon are
  469. 20:21perpendicular here. Either the first
  470. 20:24quarter moon or the third quarter moon.
  471. 20:26So there's not two moons here. It's just
  472. 20:28that moon moving through in those
  473. 20:30positions. This is where we have the
  474. 20:32least or lowest tidal range. We call
  475. 20:34this quadriure as I said before because
  476. 20:36it looks like a quadrant. And we have
  477. 20:39quarter moons in both of these phases.
  478. 20:41These are the lowest ranges, lowest
  479. 20:43tides. And we call these lowest tides
  480. 20:45neep tides. So think spring tides, you
  481. 20:48got your highest high tide. Neep tides
  482. 20:50you'll have your lowest high tide. So we
  483. 20:53just saw the new moon, the full moon,
  484. 20:56and the quarter moon. And from that
  485. 20:58video, we see how they appear to us on
  486. 21:01Earth. We also have, and we can go back
  487. 21:03to that diagram, a crescent moon and a
  488. 21:08gibbus moon. But if the crescent moon is
  489. 21:11the moon moving from the new to the
  490. 21:13first quarter, we call it waxing or
  491. 21:15coming. We also have a gibbus moon. We
  492. 21:19can say that it's the moon moving from
  493. 21:21the first quarter to the full. And we
  494. 21:23call that again waxing gibbus.
  495. 21:26Waning is now used when you're in that
  496. 21:29last
  497. 21:31quarter. And the waning gibbus is the
  498. 21:33moon moving from the full to the last
  499. 21:35quarter. And the waning crescent is that
  500. 21:38last quarter, the moon moving from the
  501. 21:40last quarter back to the new
  502. 21:43moon. So you can see it depicted here.
  503. 21:46Words are great. Listening to me is
  504. 21:47great. But here we have it. Right? So
  505. 21:49these terms you can impress your
  506. 21:50friends, right? If you went from a new
  507. 21:53moon where you're not seeing anything
  508. 21:54and you start to see that crescent, ah,
  509. 21:57we're beginning the lunar cycle again
  510. 21:59and that is a waxing or coming crescent.
  511. 22:03Right? If you're over here and you see
  512. 22:05that crescent, but it was a full moon
  513. 22:09maybe two weeks
  514. 22:10ago. Um, that means that it's waning.
  515. 22:14It's disappearing. And that crescent
  516. 22:15will get smaller and smaller. This way
  517. 22:17that crescent will get bigger and
  518. 22:19bigger. So complicating factors of
  519. 22:21tides. So right now we know that tides
  520. 22:24are thanks to the l lunar bulges and the
  521. 22:26solar bulges. But we keep showing these
  522. 22:30diagrams where the moon is right over
  523. 22:32the
  524. 22:33equator. Declination the angular
  525. 22:36distance of the moon or sun above or
  526. 22:38below the earth's surface. So the sun to
  527. 22:41earth is actually at a declination of
  528. 22:43around 23 and a half degrees north and
  529. 22:45south of the equator. So it's not over
  530. 22:48the equator. Moon and Earth, we've got
  531. 22:5028.5 degrees north and south of the
  532. 22:52equator. So these lunar and solar bulges
  533. 22:55shift from the
  534. 22:56equator. So before we were showing it
  535. 22:59right around the equator with a rotating
  536. 23:01Earth. So you thought, oh, the maximum
  537. 23:02tides would always be around the
  538. 23:04equator. Not true. This declination now
  539. 23:07we're showing the moon over here. We see
  540. 23:10that again the tidal bulge here. We
  541. 23:12don't see the solar bulge but the tidal
  542. 23:13bulge which is responsible for most of
  543. 23:15the tide influencing force here. now at
  544. 23:18a declination year. So not highest high
  545. 23:22tide here at the equator, but you're
  546. 23:24going to have the highest high tide here
  547. 23:25because of that declination. So
  548. 23:27complicating factor declination. Other
  549. 23:30complicated factors are there's slightly
  550. 23:33elliptical orbits here in both the
  551. 23:35Earth's orbit around the sun and the uh
  552. 23:39the cycle from the Earth Moon system. So
  553. 23:42let's just start with the Earth's orbit
  554. 23:44around the Sun. We've got the greatest
  555. 23:46tidal ranges, the greatest high high
  556. 23:48tides when you are in perihelion when
  557. 23:51the earth is closest to the sun. That
  558. 23:54happens in
  559. 23:55January. The title range is least in
  560. 23:59aphithelon when the earth is furthest
  561. 24:01from the sun and that happens in July.
  562. 24:03Let's take a look at this. So, it's an
  563. 24:06elliptical system here, but there is a
  564. 24:09point in time when the earth is closest
  565. 24:11to the sun.
  566. 24:13I said that's perihelion January
  567. 24:18and in July you're furthest away from
  568. 24:21the sun. Same thing happens with the
  569. 24:23moon. We've got the moon's orbit around
  570. 24:25the earth. We've got title ranges
  571. 24:28greatest when the moon is closest to the
  572. 24:30earth and we call that perigee. And we
  573. 24:32get the tidal ranges are least in
  574. 24:35apogee. That's when the moon is furthest
  575. 24:37from the earth. And this perigee ape
  576. 24:40cycle is 27 1/2
  577. 24:43days. So we see that here again the
  578. 24:46elliptical orbit. But we also see at one
  579. 24:50point in time the earth is its closest
  580. 24:52to the moon and that's called parige. In
  581. 24:55apogee the moon is furthest away. So
  582. 24:57it's going to influence our tides as
  583. 24:59well. Again going back to the
  584. 25:01gravitational force related to the
  585. 25:03distance. So one weird effect of these
  586. 25:06orbits is sometimes every 1 and a half
  587. 25:08years or so we get these exceptionally
  588. 25:11high tidal ranges and this happens when
  589. 25:14the spring tide coincides with perigee.
  590. 25:16We call these proxyian tides. Let's just
  591. 25:19take a look at how the moon appears both
  592. 25:21in perigee and apogee. So in apogee we
  593. 25:25said the moon appears smaller than
  594. 25:26normal because that distance is the
  595. 25:29largest. In perigee, we are closest to
  596. 25:31the moon. So the moon appears larger
  597. 25:34around 14% larger. So tidal predictions
  598. 25:37are really difficult because we have to
  599. 25:40go from an idealized non-rotating earth
  600. 25:42that only has water. Throw in the
  601. 25:45continents, throw in it rotation, throw
  602. 25:47in a declination, it becomes highly
  603. 25:49complicated very quickly. The moon's
  604. 25:52declination determines possible
  605. 25:54positions of these tidal bulges. Moon
  606. 25:57directly overhead yields a high tide. We
  607. 26:00generally have two high tides and two
  608. 26:02low tides per lunar day. We have six
  609. 26:05lunar hours between high and low tides.
  610. 26:08So based on this and based on that
  611. 26:10declination of the moon here, we get
  612. 26:13pretty complicated charts like this. So
  613. 26:16this goes over a tidal cycle. We can
  614. 26:19have a high higher tide, low tide, and
  615. 26:23then a lower high tide, and then a low
  616. 26:25tide, and back to a higher high tide. It
  617. 26:28gets complicated. You can look at these
  618. 26:31videos uh online and see this in action
  619. 26:34animation ones. And I'll probably point
  620. 26:36you to mastering oceanography to
  621. 26:38solidify this comp uh concept as well,
  622. 26:40but it gets complicated. So, those are
  623. 26:42idealized tides, real tides. Okay, as I
  624. 26:47mentioned that continents and the
  625. 26:49friction with the seafloor could modify
  626. 26:51these tidal bulges. Idealized tides do
  627. 26:55not account for continents or friction.
  628. 26:57So everything we've been talking about
  629. 26:58has been an idealized tide model. Tides
  630. 27:02are forced waves not freely propagating
  631. 27:05due to being pulled by an astronomical
  632. 27:08force. So these idealized tidal bulges
  633. 27:11really cannot form, cannot keep up with
  634. 27:14Earth's rotation. Crests and troughs of
  635. 27:16tides rotate around an amphodroic point.
  636. 27:20This is where it gets really
  637. 27:21complicated. I just want you to
  638. 27:23understand that real tides are
  639. 27:25complicated and it makes tidal charts
  640. 27:28very very difficult to forecast. Um
  641. 27:33certain areas we can call co-tidle lines
  642. 27:36and they radio out or radiate out from
  643. 27:39these amphodomic points. They connect
  644. 27:42simultaneous high tide
  645. 27:45points. Just going to show this for the
  646. 27:47fun of it. Not going to mention any more
  647. 27:49of it because uh this would be an
  648. 27:51advanced uh oceanography course to go
  649. 27:54into all of this. So the effect of
  650. 27:56continents, continents interrupt that
  651. 27:59free movement of the tidal bulges. Tidal
  652. 28:02ranges amplified over shallow
  653. 28:04continental shelves. So this is amazing.
  654. 28:07Tides are dictated by almost 400
  655. 28:10factors. So when you're sitting on a
  656. 28:12coast and you're looking at the tide,
  657. 28:14400 factors are probably coming in to
  658. 28:17make those predictions of how high it is
  659. 28:20or how low it is and even the
  660. 28:23timing. Thus, it's really difficult to
  661. 28:26have a good mathematical model to use
  662. 28:30for tides. Some other terminology here.
  663. 28:34In certain places, you can have one high
  664. 28:36tide and one low tide per day. It
  665. 28:38doesn't have to be two and two. This is
  666. 28:40called
  667. 28:41dural. Semidural means that you have two
  668. 28:44high tides and two low tides per day,
  669. 28:47just like we do along the east coast of
  670. 28:48the United States. And the title range
  671. 28:50is about the
  672. 28:51same. You can have areas of mixed title
  673. 28:54patterns. You can have two high tides,
  674. 28:56two low tides per day, but the title
  675. 28:59range can be different.
  676. 29:02So here we have a nice worldwide map
  677. 29:04here. And if you want to experience
  678. 29:06semidural patterns, as I say, go to the
  679. 29:09east coast. If you want to look at one
  680. 29:11high tide, one low tide, the Gulf of
  681. 29:13Mexico region here and parts of the
  682. 29:15Caribbean. And if you want to look at
  683. 29:18certainly the prevalence of these mixed
  684. 29:20tidal patterns, you can see them in
  685. 29:22blue. If you look on a monthly basis
  686. 29:25here, we know that spring tides are the
  687. 29:27highest tides. So these are plotting
  688. 29:31this is every little wave here is again
  689. 29:35a day. So two highs, two lows. So in
  690. 29:40certain areas Boston is a semidal. We're
  691. 29:43going to see two high tides, two low
  692. 29:45tides. But you can then also know that
  693. 29:48in areas where you have in areas of the
  694. 29:51calendar where you have that
  695. 29:53you're going to have spring tides. These
  696. 29:56are higher than normal, right? you're
  697. 29:58going to in quadriure have neep tides.
  698. 30:01So that's why how come these are high
  699. 30:04tides that are lower here and higher
  700. 30:06here because of that position and the
  701. 30:09alignment with the earth moon sun
  702. 30:12system. So it gets complicated. You can
  703. 30:14go through these semidal is the most
  704. 30:16common on the east coast as I said. So
  705. 30:19that's typical but we can also see uh
  706. 30:22mix patterns here or dural patterns um
  707. 30:25that get a little more complicated.
  708. 30:27really cool. I suggest that you uh
  709. 30:30Google and take a look at some of the
  710. 30:33video the time lapse imagery of this. I
  711. 30:36think this image suffices, but one of
  712. 30:38the areas of interest for extreme title
  713. 30:41ranges is the Bay of Fundy in Nova
  714. 30:43Scotia. It's the world's largest title
  715. 30:45range. And it's a unique inbaitment
  716. 30:48here, the Bay of Fundy. Because of the
  717. 30:50morphology and again 400 factors driving
  718. 30:54this in forming these tides, you get a
  719. 30:57super high tide and a super low tide. A
  720. 30:59tidal excursion that is
  721. 31:01incredible. Another cool thing it
  722. 31:03happens in coastal waters is when tides
  723. 31:06are entering semi-encclosed systems or
  724. 31:08traveling up rivers um you generate
  725. 31:11these things called tidal bores. They're
  726. 31:13tiger generated walls of water that seem
  727. 31:16to be moving up certain rivers. Certain
  728. 31:19conditions needed for this. They don't
  729. 31:20happen on every estuary or river. You
  730. 31:22need a large spring tidal range of about
  731. 31:256 meters. You need abrupt flood tide and
  732. 31:28short e tide phases, low-lying river
  733. 31:32with a seawward current. You've got a
  734. 31:34shallowing or landward
  735. 31:37seafloor and a narrowing of the basin in
  736. 31:40the upper reaches. This is all to say
  737. 31:41that you need these certain conditions.
  738. 31:43They don't happen in many places. One
  739. 31:46place is uh viewed here a tidal bore
  740. 31:48happening. This is the onrushing tide
  741. 31:51that is happening in France. So you can
  742. 31:53see that this is the the the head of the
  743. 31:55tide coming in. So it's a flooding tide
  744. 31:58coming up this river. And what people do
  745. 32:01is they surf these. Let's watch this
  746. 32:03video of a tidal bore happening on the
  747. 32:06Amazon
  748. 32:08River. What a
  749. 32:10perfect. Look at this thing.
  750. 32:13Absolutely
  751. 32:16perfect.
  752. 32:20Nobody. Oh my
  753. 32:23god. And then it got serious. What
  754. 32:26happened next stunned everyone.
  755. 32:33Perhaps it was the effect of the super
  756. 32:35moon.
  757. 32:37But then came the biggest, most
  758. 32:39perfectly formed poroca wave any human
  759. 32:43has ever seen. And it was all roles to
  760. 32:47ride.
  761. 32:55We're out here in the Amazon. You're
  762. 32:56away from cities and you know the
  763. 32:58pollution and stuff. You got just this
  764. 33:01the water's brown but it's not dirty.
  765. 33:02It's just so when tides are coming into
  766. 33:04these areas, we call them flooding. So
  767. 33:07water is rushing up a bay or river with
  768. 33:10the incoming tide or the flooding tide.
  769. 33:12We said if it's retreating, water drains
  770. 33:15from the bay or river as the tide goes
  771. 33:17out. It's called an ecurren. We have
  772. 33:19other terminology called high slack
  773. 33:21water. That's the peak of each high tide
  774. 33:23with no current motion. So high tides
  775. 33:26will come in and then there's a point in
  776. 33:29time when they then start to that's
  777. 33:31coming in or flooding before they
  778. 33:34maximize their high tide or at the point
  779. 33:37it's high tide then they're going to be
  780. 33:39no current motion for that one point in
  781. 33:42time and then they'll start ebbing out
  782. 33:44of the river or estuary. Low slack water
  783. 33:47is the same peak of each low tide where
  784. 33:49there's no current motion. So we can see
  785. 33:51that here on this chart. This is the
  786. 33:55tidal range. So we have a high tide and
  787. 33:59a high tide and a low tide and a low
  788. 34:01tide. Uh one phase here a dural phase.
  789. 34:06But look at the current velocity. So
  790. 34:09when you go to the low water or low tide
  791. 34:13that velocity goes to zero. Okay? And
  792. 34:16then you return to moving water. So that
  793. 34:19moving water in and out of these areas,
  794. 34:21this tidal motion actually on the high
  795. 34:24tide and on the low tide stop for one
  796. 34:26instant of time. That velocity is zero.
  797. 34:29Some weird stuff can happen if your
  798. 34:31tides are coming into or out of uh
  799. 34:34geomorphic areas that are unique. Uh,
  800. 34:38one thing that may happen is you have a
  801. 34:41maelstrom that's in the Arctic
  802. 34:45Norway and it is uh rapidly spinning
  803. 34:49seawater. It's called a vortex and these
  804. 34:52typically happen when you are in a
  805. 34:54restricted channel connecting two basins
  806. 34:56of different tidal
  807. 34:59cycles. So there's an image of the
  808. 35:01Norwegian maelstrom. So can we use ties
  809. 35:05to generate power? We said we certainly
  810. 35:07might try with waves. Can the same be
  811. 35:09done for tides? The answer is yes. And
  812. 35:11there's primary two ways here. Tidal
  813. 35:13water can be trapped behind coastal
  814. 35:15barriers in bays and estuaries and that
  815. 35:18turns electrical turbines or tidal
  816. 35:20currents in narrow channels can turn
  817. 35:22underwater turbines.
  818. 35:26The pros of tidal generated power are
  819. 35:28it's much like wave power, clean,
  820. 35:31renewable, lower operating costs than
  821. 35:33fossil fuel burning power plants despite
  822. 35:35the initial higher cost of building
  823. 35:37them. The United Kingdom proposed
  824. 35:39building the world's first largest tidal
  825. 35:41power
  826. 35:43plant. Possible environmental concerns
  827. 35:45is it changes the habitat of submarine
  828. 35:48or organisms. you're altering the
  829. 35:50ecology of these rivers or estuaries
  830. 35:52where you're sort of essentially damning
  831. 35:55them and can affect migrations. Marine
  832. 35:58animals can become trapped in the moving
  833. 36:01tidal power devices called turbines and
  834. 36:04possibly noise can disrupt
  835. 36:06habitats. So here's one that has been
  836. 36:09successfully producing tidal power since
  837. 36:111966 in St. Moro, France. So you see
  838. 36:14that this is an estuary. you have to
  839. 36:17enclose it in concrete. Uh you have
  840. 36:20tides that are coming in and out on a
  841. 36:23tidal range or a tidal period. When that
  842. 36:26tide is ebbing, it is then held into
  843. 36:31this area. So an ebbing tide will create
  844. 36:34a whole bunch of water in the upper
  845. 36:36reaches. it's blocked off and then as
  846. 36:39the tide retreats it's um it then that
  847. 36:43high tide water which is trapped behind
  848. 36:45this barrier then can flow into the
  849. 36:48lower low tide area and that's going to
  850. 36:51drive a turbine and again we said before
  851. 36:54anytime you drive a turbine you can
  852. 36:55generate
  853. 36:56electricity. So there we have it. That
  854. 36:59was the end of our chapter 9 dealing
  855. 37:01with tides. I hope you enjoyed it and I
  856. 37:04hope you found some marine exploitation
  857. 37:08or marine innovation towards the end of
  858. 37:10that that might spur your interest in
  859. 37:11creating your
  860. 37:14fact. Take care. See you later.

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