Chapter 9 - Tides — Transcript
Full transcript
- 0:00Hello, my name is Dr. Jeff Ashley and
- 0:02welcome to chapter 9. Chapter 9 deals
- 0:05with tides and most of us have seen
- 0:07tides or interacted with them before.
- 0:10So, what causes tides? Tides are
- 0:13periodic raising and lowering of the
- 0:15ocean sea level. They occur daily and
- 0:19they can really be traced back to a
- 0:21phenomenon that involves gravitational
- 0:24laws that were explained by Isaac
- 0:26Newton. There's also some other things
- 0:28driving that by pra primarily it's a
- 0:31gravitational influence. Tides are
- 0:34caused by a combination of gravity and
- 0:36also motion between the earth, moon and
- 0:38the sun system. Let's first introduce
- 0:41this idea of a barisenter. A beer center
- 0:44between specifically the moon and the
- 0:46earth system. It's a common center of
- 0:49mass or a balance point and it's beneath
- 0:51the earth's surface. Let's take a look
- 0:53at this diagram to get a better idea of
- 0:55what bareris center
- 0:57is. Okay, so you have the moon and the
- 1:00earth and it's a system that is rotating
- 1:03around each other. However, because of
- 1:07the earth's larger mass versus the moon,
- 1:10we end up with a rotation system here
- 1:13that is centered around this beer
- 1:15center. And as we said previously that
- 1:18it is existing this point in time or
- 1:21this point on earth is existing beneath
- 1:24the earth's surface. So there it is
- 1:27uh it is the balance point of these two
- 1:30entities the earth and the moon. So the
- 1:33center isn't a true center here. The
- 1:36center is right here and that's barac
- 1:38center. And in your book it says it's
- 1:40akin to a sledgehammer where you have
- 1:43the weighty earth over here as that
- 1:46leaded head of the sledgehammer and the
- 1:48moon is lighter and over here. When you
- 1:51throw that sledgehammer into the air and
- 1:54start rotating it, it actually rotates a
- 1:57little weird because of that bear
- 1:59center. It's not a rotation that's like
- 2:01this. It's a rotation that is a little
- 2:04offkilter, which means, and I like this
- 2:08diagram better, we have the Earth Moon
- 2:11system that is not moving in a straight
- 2:14path around the Sun, but it's orbiting
- 2:17in a way that because of that bear
- 2:19center, you get this little hoppy motion
- 2:23that is based on that throwing of the
- 2:25sledgehammer like movement. So, let's
- 2:28play out this short video on that
- 2:30movement around the sun of the Earth and
- 2:35the Moon system. Well, to do this
- 2:37activity, you only need four simple
- 2:38things. You need a lamp with a shade
- 2:40removed, a white foam ball, a pencil,
- 2:44and a dark room. The darker the room,
- 2:47the better. Now, in this model, the lamp
- 2:50is going to represent the sun. And of
- 2:52course, the white foam ball is going to
- 2:53represent the moon. And your head is
- 2:56going to represent the earth. So, let me
- 2:58show you how this
- 3:02works. We know that the moon orbits the
- 3:05earth. So, in this model, I'm going to
- 3:07get the moon, the foam ball, to orbit
- 3:09the earth, my head.
- 3:13Notice that no matter where the moon is
- 3:15in its orbit, half of it is always lit
- 3:17up by the
- 3:20sun. But when the moon is in this
- 3:23position, I can't see any of the lighted
- 3:26side of the moon from
- 3:27Earth. My head
- 3:32from this angle, you can see what I am
- 3:34seeing from Earth. We call this new
- 3:36moon. When it's new moon, we look up at
- 3:39the sky and we can't see the moon. It's
- 3:41there, but the side that's reflecting
- 3:43sunlight is away from us. Now, as I
- 3:46slowly make the moon orbit to my left, I
- 3:48can begin to see a tiny sliver of that
- 3:50lighted side. We call that a crescent
- 3:53moon. As the moon keeps orbiting, we can
- 3:56see more and more of that lighted side.
- 3:58We see half of the lighted half, which
- 4:01is a quarter moon. In this case, a first
- 4:03quarter
- 4:05moon. As we keep orbiting, we see almost
- 4:08the whole lighted side. We call that a
- 4:10gibbus
- 4:12moon. Then when we can see the entire
- 4:14lighted half of the moon, that's a full
- 4:17moon. As the moon continues in its
- 4:20orbit, we begin to see less and less of
- 4:22that lighted side. We're back to a
- 4:24gibbous moon, but this time the light is
- 4:27on the opposite
- 4:33side. Then another quarter moon, last
- 4:37quarter moon to be exact.
- 4:41Another
- 4:45crescent and finally back to new
- 4:48moon. Kind of cool. You can do this at
- 4:51home if you want. Maybe you already did
- 4:52this in elementary school or high
- 4:54school, but it actually shows the Earth
- 4:57moon system in its rotation around the
- 5:00sun. So, let's go back to that diagram.
- 5:03So, what we were seeing there was
- 5:05actually a full lunar cycle. So we're
- 5:08actually just looking at this cycle
- 5:10right here. And a lunar cycle takes
- 5:13around 29 12
- 5:15days. Okay. So we said what's driving
- 5:18the tides and that was largely
- 5:20gravitational forces. So let's just
- 5:22refresh our memory on gravity.
- 5:24Gravitational force is derived from
- 5:26Newton's law of universal gravitation.
- 5:28And it says that every object that has a
- 5:31mass in the universe is attracted to
- 5:33every other object that has a mass. And
- 5:35in fact you can remember maybe from
- 5:37physics class that that force of
- 5:40attraction is proportional to the
- 5:42product of the two masses of those
- 5:44entities and it's inversely proportional
- 5:48to the square of the distance. So larger
- 5:51the mass the greater the force of
- 5:53attraction or gravitational forces.
- 5:56However the distance is important as
- 5:58well. As you go to greater greater diff
- 6:00distances you decrease that
- 6:02gravitational force. Okay. So let's just
- 6:05take the Earth Moon system again. Here's
- 6:07the Earth. Here's the moon. We said that
- 6:10there's a gravitational force that's
- 6:12happening here because the distance over
- 6:16here, let's just say we're on this side
- 6:17of the Earth. Look at the distance
- 6:20between the Earth's surface and the
- 6:22center of the
- 6:23moon. It's the shortest distance
- 6:26possible. Okay, here take a look. That
- 6:30distance is much larger. It is the
- 6:33larger distance or the largest distance
- 6:35away from the moon at that point in
- 6:37time. We've got two names, new names
- 6:40here. The zenith is called the point on
- 6:42earth closest to the moon at that
- 6:44particular point in time. It's not
- 6:46always there. The earth is rotating. And
- 6:49the nater or nadir is the point on earth
- 6:52furthest from the moon. So the greatest
- 6:55force gravitational force will be acting
- 6:58at the zenith. The least gravitational
- 7:00force on earth will be acting at the
- 7:04nadir. It's not all gravitational force.
- 7:06We got to throw in another force and
- 7:09that other force is called centropedal.
- 7:11Not centrifugal but centripedal. And
- 7:14this is said to be the center seeking
- 7:16force. If you have a object with a mass
- 7:19and you're swinging it along, this is
- 7:21what centripedal force is. It keeps our
- 7:23planets and that little ball in orbit
- 7:26via gravitational attraction.
- 7:28Essentially, it's tethering the Earth
- 7:30and the Moon
- 7:33together. If you look at centripedal
- 7:35forces, here's what you come up with.
- 7:38They're all in the same direction. These
- 7:40vectors are showing them at various
- 7:43locations on Earth. All in the same
- 7:45direction, pointing horizontally to that
- 7:48entity called the moon. And actually,
- 7:51they are all of the same length. So,
- 7:53those forces are exactly the same around
- 7:57the Earth. take you back to this one
- 7:59because look at this was gravitational
- 8:01forces and these are the vectors
- 8:03represented them representing them. The
- 8:06longest vector is here. So that is the
- 8:09strongest gravitational force at that
- 8:11point in time. And look at the
- 8:13directionality. It's directed right to
- 8:15the center of the moon. You get a little
- 8:17less gravitational pull as you get
- 8:19further away from it. That makes sense.
- 8:21So a shorter vector here. But look at
- 8:23the directionality. It's not horizontal
- 8:26like the centripedal forces. It is
- 8:30directed towards the center of the mass.
- 8:32And again, right here, furthest away
- 8:34from the moon, you've got the shortest
- 8:36vector, but again, it's pointed to the
- 8:38center of mass. So, let's bring these
- 8:41two things together, centripedal forces
- 8:44and gravitational forces, and we get
- 8:47resultant forces. So, this is the
- 8:49mathematical difference between the
- 8:51gravitational and the centripedal
- 8:53forces. Essentially, we're looking at
- 8:55the resultant force in in blue here. How
- 8:58did you get that or how did they get it?
- 9:01They took an
- 9:04arrow starting at the tip of the
- 9:07centripedal force and going to the tip
- 9:10of the grav gravitational attraction of
- 9:12the moon. So, you draw that from tip to
- 9:15tip. Start with the red arrow going to
- 9:17the black arrow and the resultant forces
- 9:20there. So, look at that one. It's
- 9:21directed. It's a little vector but it's
- 9:23directed up. Let's do the same thing
- 9:27from the red to the black and the
- 9:30resultant force is in blue. Ah, okay.
- 9:32So, it's a horizontal
- 9:34line that is directed towards the moon
- 9:37over here. This is the oddball one.
- 9:39Again, you're going from the tip of the
- 9:41red to the tip of the black. Whoa.
- 9:44Notice that the resultant force is away
- 9:47from the moon. But is it equal in
- 9:50magnitude or strength? So equal in
- 9:53magnitude but opposite directions. So
- 9:56you see that some of these resultant
- 9:58forces are moving away from the moon.
- 10:01Some of them are directed towards the
- 10:03moon. So let's take a look at what this
- 10:06resultant force is. So it's a resulting
- 10:09force from the centripedal forces and
- 10:12the gravitational attraction of the
- 10:14moon. And it actually is what delivers
- 10:18the tidal forces. So let's start with a
- 10:21nonrotating earth here. And how are
- 10:23tides generated? The resultant force
- 10:26that we saw there has significant
- 10:28horizontal component. It pulls water
- 10:31because water can move and stretch along
- 10:35both towards the moon and away from the
- 10:37moon on the other side. So water being
- 10:40fluid can move and you get these bulges,
- 10:43these two bulges on one side of the
- 10:45earth towards the moon and the other
- 10:48side of the earth away from the moon. So
- 10:51imagine I like saying it's like pulling
- 10:53out your shirt like this. You're bulging
- 10:55that, right? But I'm bulging it towards
- 10:58the moon and I'm bulging it away from
- 11:00the
- 11:01moon. This isn't a non-rotating Earth
- 11:04right now. We're going to have to start
- 11:06rotating it to make it more realistic
- 11:08and see what happens. So, let's put the
- 11:11Earth in motion because it is rotating.
- 11:14And let me stand up again and bulge my
- 11:16shirt out. So, that represent the bulges
- 11:19of water. But my body is rotating, but
- 11:22those bulges are staying in the same
- 11:24position. So you can imagine that as my
- 11:27body rotates, which represents the
- 11:29rotation of the earth, but those bulges
- 11:31are staying the same, you're going to
- 11:34get this uh issue of tidal bulges and
- 11:37tidal bulge movement. It results when a
- 11:39force pushes water into two simultaneous
- 11:42bulges. We said one towards the moon,
- 11:44one away from the moon. These are called
- 11:46lunar bulges. And they arise, as we
- 11:49said, from centropedal and gravitational
- 11:51forces. So people start off with a
- 11:54simple situation where the moon exists
- 11:57right here over the equator. We're going
- 11:59to see that that's not true. Uh and we
- 12:01start off with a uh idealized earth that
- 12:05is just all water. There's no continents
- 12:08because continents then influence tides
- 12:10as well.
- 12:12So on this side of the earth, water
- 12:14bulges away. On this side, it bulges
- 12:17towards the moon. And again, let's put
- 12:19this spinning Earth into uh motion here.
- 12:22You can imagine if you're here at one
- 12:24point in time, you're going to receive
- 12:27this tidal bulge, aka a higher tide. But
- 12:31as that Earth spins, right, you're
- 12:33spinning with it. You're going to
- 12:36encounter an area that's not close to
- 12:40that moon side or opposite side. And
- 12:43that has there's no tidal bulge there,
- 12:46right? It's actually like that, the
- 12:48skinny part where there's no bulge, and
- 12:51that's called low tide. So, let's look
- 12:53up some terminology on the moon's tidal
- 12:55bulges. A tidal period is said to be the
- 12:58time between high tides.
- 13:01Okay? So, you go from a high tide to a
- 13:04low tide and back to a high tide. That
- 13:06tidal period is from high to high. A
- 13:08lunar day, I mentioned this before, it's
- 13:10the time between two successive overhead
- 13:13moons. That's 24 hours, but a little
- 13:17more. 24 hours and 50 minutes. 24 hours
- 13:21is our solar
- 13:23day. But a lunar day is 24 hours and 50
- 13:27minutes. This explains why you get high
- 13:29and low tides that change all the time.
- 13:32And it explains why you need tidal
- 13:34charts to predict these. They're out of
- 13:37phase by about 50 minutes. So, I'm at
- 13:41the beach this week. uh high tide maybe
- 13:43was at 400 pm today. Tomorrow it will be
- 13:474:00 p p.m. uh 4:50 p.m. So let's look
- 13:51at this lunar day and we said that it's
- 13:54not like a solar day. Um and let's
- 13:57position ourselves here. Uh this is
- 14:00looking down. So you're looking down on
- 14:02the north pole. So let's position oursel
- 14:04uh somewhere on the equator here and
- 14:06start the earth rotating. So here we
- 14:09are. Uh the earth and the moon here have
- 14:13influence and we see that oh yeah we're
- 14:15in a tidal bulge area. So that would be
- 14:18a high tide. But as the earth rotates
- 14:21and we're going to rotate it 6 hours
- 14:23later that we have moved over here.
- 14:25We're in an area that's not a tidal
- 14:28bulge. It's the skinny part. So we
- 14:31experiencing not high tides but low
- 14:33tides. Uh then we come back 12 hours
- 14:36later and we're opposite side here.
- 14:37Remember, tidal bulges are pretty much
- 14:40equal on either side. The moon facing
- 14:42side and the non-moon facing side. 6
- 14:45hours later, we're over here. We were in
- 14:48a high tide situation here and a low
- 14:50tide
- 14:50situation. Come back to our starting
- 14:53point and that would be a solar day, 24
- 14:55hours, but the moon is now actually over
- 14:59here. So, the moon has gone over here.
- 15:02So, that explains this lunar cycle of 24
- 15:05hours plus 50 minutes.
- 15:08So tidal bulges, we just saw that
- 15:10because of centripedal force and
- 15:12gravitational force with the Earth Moon
- 15:15system that seems to be developing these
- 15:18tidal bulges. Well, they are, but
- 15:20they're lunar tidal bulges caused by the
- 15:22moon. What about the sun? The sun is a
- 15:25pretty big mass. Do we have gradu
- 15:27gravitational attraction towards that
- 15:29and maybe some bulges because of it?
- 15:32Yes, they're similar to lunar bulges.
- 15:35So, they're solar bulges, but they're
- 15:37about half the size. This is because the
- 15:40sun, although it's 27 million times more
- 15:42massive than the moon, it's further
- 15:45away. It's 390 times further from the
- 15:48Earth. So, it's got a big mass. You
- 15:50would think a lot of gravitational pull
- 15:52and effect, a lot of bulges, but no,
- 15:55that distance actually negates or
- 15:57offsets that power of the gravitational
- 15:59force. So the moon's closer distance to
- 16:02the earth results in moon exerting more
- 16:04control over the earth's tides than the
- 16:07sun. But we got to take into
- 16:09consideration that the sun does have an
- 16:11influence and does manage to bulge the
- 16:14sea as well. Well, here you have a
- 16:16figure that just explains what I said
- 16:19about the relative size of the moon, the
- 16:21earth and the sun. Sun is massive in its
- 16:26mass. However, the distances come into
- 16:29play here. So if you look at the force
- 16:32of
- 16:33gravitation and that equals a
- 16:36proportionality to between the two
- 16:38masses and also divided by the distance
- 16:42that distance here because it's so huge
- 16:45is making that solar bulge lesser of an
- 16:49impact than the uh lunar bulge.
- 16:54some other terms we have to deal with
- 16:56here um as the earth's rotation and the
- 16:59tides are influenced here. So we have a
- 17:02high tide um when we say it's a flood
- 17:05tide or a flooding tide water moved
- 17:08towards the shore. So if you're standing
- 17:09on the shore like again I'm at the beach
- 17:11here high tide that tide is rising. Okay
- 17:15so that's a flooding tide. Imagine like
- 17:17a flood would come in it is like moving
- 17:19water up and up and up and increasing
- 17:21your sea level
- 17:23momentarily. When something is said to
- 17:25be ebbing it's moving away for the shore
- 17:28shore or going away. So an ebbing tide
- 17:31is one that is going from high tide back
- 17:34to a low tide. A flooding tide is going
- 17:36from a low tide to a high tide. The
- 17:39tidal bulges are fixed relative to the
- 17:42sun and the moose moon's positions and
- 17:45the earth's rotation moves differently
- 17:48according to geographic locations into
- 17:50those
- 17:52bulges. Some other terminology here you
- 17:54might have heard about tidal range or I
- 17:57call it tidal excursion. It's the
- 17:59difference in height between the high
- 18:01and the low tides. So tidal excursion
- 18:04around Philadelphia area. If you go down
- 18:06to the Delaware River or even parts of
- 18:09the Skooko River before the Museum of
- 18:11Art because there's a dam there, you
- 18:13will see title ranges or excursions on
- 18:16the order of four or five feet in
- 18:19certain
- 18:20places. We'll see this and it will come
- 18:22into play in a moment that you can have
- 18:24the moon, Earth, and Sun align just like
- 18:27in that little video we watched. That
- 18:30term is called sissyagy. It's a really
- 18:33cool word um and difficult to say sisy
- 18:37when the moon is in its first or the
- 18:41third quarter phase here. So it's not
- 18:43aligned. The earth, moon, sun system is
- 18:46not aligned on one plane. It's offset.
- 18:49It's perpendicular. We call that
- 18:51quadriure. We're going to look at some
- 18:54diagrams to make
- 18:57that more clear. So here we have the
- 19:01monthly title cycle and it explains some
- 19:04of our tide
- 19:06terminology. When we have that
- 19:09means the sun and the moon either the
- 19:12new moon or the full moon align on the
- 19:15same plane as the earth. So the earth
- 19:17moon sun system are along that same
- 19:19plane. We said that with What
- 19:22happens here? We get the exertion of
- 19:24both the lunar bulges and the solar
- 19:28bulges. So here we have overlaid both
- 19:31the lunar tidal bulges and then a little
- 19:34extra here from the solar bulges. So
- 19:36it's like an extra extra bulge thanks to
- 19:39now both the moon we learned that before
- 19:41and now we have to bring in the bulge
- 19:42from the sun. So under this condition
- 19:46when you have alignment or sisy we have
- 19:49a new or full moon we've got the
- 19:51greatest tidal ranges or the greatest
- 19:54height of our high tides. This is called
- 19:57a spring tide. And you might have heard
- 19:59about this certainly influences when we
- 20:01have a hurricane coming through because
- 20:03if that hurricane does happen on a
- 20:06spring tide and we have and we may have
- 20:09a storm surge that'll heighten the sea
- 20:12level even more. Not good. Totally
- 20:16opposite when you're in quadriure. So
- 20:18the sun, the earth, and the moon are
- 20:21perpendicular here. Either the first
- 20:24quarter moon or the third quarter moon.
- 20:26So there's not two moons here. It's just
- 20:28that moon moving through in those
- 20:30positions. This is where we have the
- 20:32least or lowest tidal range. We call
- 20:34this quadriure as I said before because
- 20:36it looks like a quadrant. And we have
- 20:39quarter moons in both of these phases.
- 20:41These are the lowest ranges, lowest
- 20:43tides. And we call these lowest tides
- 20:45neep tides. So think spring tides, you
- 20:48got your highest high tide. Neep tides
- 20:50you'll have your lowest high tide. So we
- 20:53just saw the new moon, the full moon,
- 20:56and the quarter moon. And from that
- 20:58video, we see how they appear to us on
- 21:01Earth. We also have, and we can go back
- 21:03to that diagram, a crescent moon and a
- 21:08gibbus moon. But if the crescent moon is
- 21:11the moon moving from the new to the
- 21:13first quarter, we call it waxing or
- 21:15coming. We also have a gibbus moon. We
- 21:19can say that it's the moon moving from
- 21:21the first quarter to the full. And we
- 21:23call that again waxing gibbus.
- 21:26Waning is now used when you're in that
- 21:29last
- 21:31quarter. And the waning gibbus is the
- 21:33moon moving from the full to the last
- 21:35quarter. And the waning crescent is that
- 21:38last quarter, the moon moving from the
- 21:40last quarter back to the new
- 21:43moon. So you can see it depicted here.
- 21:46Words are great. Listening to me is
- 21:47great. But here we have it. Right? So
- 21:49these terms you can impress your
- 21:50friends, right? If you went from a new
- 21:53moon where you're not seeing anything
- 21:54and you start to see that crescent, ah,
- 21:57we're beginning the lunar cycle again
- 21:59and that is a waxing or coming crescent.
- 22:03Right? If you're over here and you see
- 22:05that crescent, but it was a full moon
- 22:09maybe two weeks
- 22:10ago. Um, that means that it's waning.
- 22:14It's disappearing. And that crescent
- 22:15will get smaller and smaller. This way
- 22:17that crescent will get bigger and
- 22:19bigger. So complicating factors of
- 22:21tides. So right now we know that tides
- 22:24are thanks to the l lunar bulges and the
- 22:26solar bulges. But we keep showing these
- 22:30diagrams where the moon is right over
- 22:32the
- 22:33equator. Declination the angular
- 22:36distance of the moon or sun above or
- 22:38below the earth's surface. So the sun to
- 22:41earth is actually at a declination of
- 22:43around 23 and a half degrees north and
- 22:45south of the equator. So it's not over
- 22:48the equator. Moon and Earth, we've got
- 22:5028.5 degrees north and south of the
- 22:52equator. So these lunar and solar bulges
- 22:55shift from the
- 22:56equator. So before we were showing it
- 22:59right around the equator with a rotating
- 23:01Earth. So you thought, oh, the maximum
- 23:02tides would always be around the
- 23:04equator. Not true. This declination now
- 23:07we're showing the moon over here. We see
- 23:10that again the tidal bulge here. We
- 23:12don't see the solar bulge but the tidal
- 23:13bulge which is responsible for most of
- 23:15the tide influencing force here. now at
- 23:18a declination year. So not highest high
- 23:22tide here at the equator, but you're
- 23:24going to have the highest high tide here
- 23:25because of that declination. So
- 23:27complicating factor declination. Other
- 23:30complicated factors are there's slightly
- 23:33elliptical orbits here in both the
- 23:35Earth's orbit around the sun and the uh
- 23:39the cycle from the Earth Moon system. So
- 23:42let's just start with the Earth's orbit
- 23:44around the Sun. We've got the greatest
- 23:46tidal ranges, the greatest high high
- 23:48tides when you are in perihelion when
- 23:51the earth is closest to the sun. That
- 23:54happens in
- 23:55January. The title range is least in
- 23:59aphithelon when the earth is furthest
- 24:01from the sun and that happens in July.
- 24:03Let's take a look at this. So, it's an
- 24:06elliptical system here, but there is a
- 24:09point in time when the earth is closest
- 24:11to the sun.
- 24:13I said that's perihelion January
- 24:18and in July you're furthest away from
- 24:21the sun. Same thing happens with the
- 24:23moon. We've got the moon's orbit around
- 24:25the earth. We've got title ranges
- 24:28greatest when the moon is closest to the
- 24:30earth and we call that perigee. And we
- 24:32get the tidal ranges are least in
- 24:35apogee. That's when the moon is furthest
- 24:37from the earth. And this perigee ape
- 24:40cycle is 27 1/2
- 24:43days. So we see that here again the
- 24:46elliptical orbit. But we also see at one
- 24:50point in time the earth is its closest
- 24:52to the moon and that's called parige. In
- 24:55apogee the moon is furthest away. So
- 24:57it's going to influence our tides as
- 24:59well. Again going back to the
- 25:01gravitational force related to the
- 25:03distance. So one weird effect of these
- 25:06orbits is sometimes every 1 and a half
- 25:08years or so we get these exceptionally
- 25:11high tidal ranges and this happens when
- 25:14the spring tide coincides with perigee.
- 25:16We call these proxyian tides. Let's just
- 25:19take a look at how the moon appears both
- 25:21in perigee and apogee. So in apogee we
- 25:25said the moon appears smaller than
- 25:26normal because that distance is the
- 25:29largest. In perigee, we are closest to
- 25:31the moon. So the moon appears larger
- 25:34around 14% larger. So tidal predictions
- 25:37are really difficult because we have to
- 25:40go from an idealized non-rotating earth
- 25:42that only has water. Throw in the
- 25:45continents, throw in it rotation, throw
- 25:47in a declination, it becomes highly
- 25:49complicated very quickly. The moon's
- 25:52declination determines possible
- 25:54positions of these tidal bulges. Moon
- 25:57directly overhead yields a high tide. We
- 26:00generally have two high tides and two
- 26:02low tides per lunar day. We have six
- 26:05lunar hours between high and low tides.
- 26:08So based on this and based on that
- 26:10declination of the moon here, we get
- 26:13pretty complicated charts like this. So
- 26:16this goes over a tidal cycle. We can
- 26:19have a high higher tide, low tide, and
- 26:23then a lower high tide, and then a low
- 26:25tide, and back to a higher high tide. It
- 26:28gets complicated. You can look at these
- 26:31videos uh online and see this in action
- 26:34animation ones. And I'll probably point
- 26:36you to mastering oceanography to
- 26:38solidify this comp uh concept as well,
- 26:40but it gets complicated. So, those are
- 26:42idealized tides, real tides. Okay, as I
- 26:47mentioned that continents and the
- 26:49friction with the seafloor could modify
- 26:51these tidal bulges. Idealized tides do
- 26:55not account for continents or friction.
- 26:57So everything we've been talking about
- 26:58has been an idealized tide model. Tides
- 27:02are forced waves not freely propagating
- 27:05due to being pulled by an astronomical
- 27:08force. So these idealized tidal bulges
- 27:11really cannot form, cannot keep up with
- 27:14Earth's rotation. Crests and troughs of
- 27:16tides rotate around an amphodroic point.
- 27:20This is where it gets really
- 27:21complicated. I just want you to
- 27:23understand that real tides are
- 27:25complicated and it makes tidal charts
- 27:28very very difficult to forecast. Um
- 27:33certain areas we can call co-tidle lines
- 27:36and they radio out or radiate out from
- 27:39these amphodomic points. They connect
- 27:42simultaneous high tide
- 27:45points. Just going to show this for the
- 27:47fun of it. Not going to mention any more
- 27:49of it because uh this would be an
- 27:51advanced uh oceanography course to go
- 27:54into all of this. So the effect of
- 27:56continents, continents interrupt that
- 27:59free movement of the tidal bulges. Tidal
- 28:02ranges amplified over shallow
- 28:04continental shelves. So this is amazing.
- 28:07Tides are dictated by almost 400
- 28:10factors. So when you're sitting on a
- 28:12coast and you're looking at the tide,
- 28:14400 factors are probably coming in to
- 28:17make those predictions of how high it is
- 28:20or how low it is and even the
- 28:23timing. Thus, it's really difficult to
- 28:26have a good mathematical model to use
- 28:30for tides. Some other terminology here.
- 28:34In certain places, you can have one high
- 28:36tide and one low tide per day. It
- 28:38doesn't have to be two and two. This is
- 28:40called
- 28:41dural. Semidural means that you have two
- 28:44high tides and two low tides per day,
- 28:47just like we do along the east coast of
- 28:48the United States. And the title range
- 28:50is about the
- 28:51same. You can have areas of mixed title
- 28:54patterns. You can have two high tides,
- 28:56two low tides per day, but the title
- 28:59range can be different.
- 29:02So here we have a nice worldwide map
- 29:04here. And if you want to experience
- 29:06semidural patterns, as I say, go to the
- 29:09east coast. If you want to look at one
- 29:11high tide, one low tide, the Gulf of
- 29:13Mexico region here and parts of the
- 29:15Caribbean. And if you want to look at
- 29:18certainly the prevalence of these mixed
- 29:20tidal patterns, you can see them in
- 29:22blue. If you look on a monthly basis
- 29:25here, we know that spring tides are the
- 29:27highest tides. So these are plotting
- 29:31this is every little wave here is again
- 29:35a day. So two highs, two lows. So in
- 29:40certain areas Boston is a semidal. We're
- 29:43going to see two high tides, two low
- 29:45tides. But you can then also know that
- 29:48in areas where you have in areas of the
- 29:51calendar where you have that
- 29:53you're going to have spring tides. These
- 29:56are higher than normal, right? you're
- 29:58going to in quadriure have neep tides.
- 30:01So that's why how come these are high
- 30:04tides that are lower here and higher
- 30:06here because of that position and the
- 30:09alignment with the earth moon sun
- 30:12system. So it gets complicated. You can
- 30:14go through these semidal is the most
- 30:16common on the east coast as I said. So
- 30:19that's typical but we can also see uh
- 30:22mix patterns here or dural patterns um
- 30:25that get a little more complicated.
- 30:27really cool. I suggest that you uh
- 30:30Google and take a look at some of the
- 30:33video the time lapse imagery of this. I
- 30:36think this image suffices, but one of
- 30:38the areas of interest for extreme title
- 30:41ranges is the Bay of Fundy in Nova
- 30:43Scotia. It's the world's largest title
- 30:45range. And it's a unique inbaitment
- 30:48here, the Bay of Fundy. Because of the
- 30:50morphology and again 400 factors driving
- 30:54this in forming these tides, you get a
- 30:57super high tide and a super low tide. A
- 30:59tidal excursion that is
- 31:01incredible. Another cool thing it
- 31:03happens in coastal waters is when tides
- 31:06are entering semi-encclosed systems or
- 31:08traveling up rivers um you generate
- 31:11these things called tidal bores. They're
- 31:13tiger generated walls of water that seem
- 31:16to be moving up certain rivers. Certain
- 31:19conditions needed for this. They don't
- 31:20happen on every estuary or river. You
- 31:22need a large spring tidal range of about
- 31:256 meters. You need abrupt flood tide and
- 31:28short e tide phases, low-lying river
- 31:32with a seawward current. You've got a
- 31:34shallowing or landward
- 31:37seafloor and a narrowing of the basin in
- 31:40the upper reaches. This is all to say
- 31:41that you need these certain conditions.
- 31:43They don't happen in many places. One
- 31:46place is uh viewed here a tidal bore
- 31:48happening. This is the onrushing tide
- 31:51that is happening in France. So you can
- 31:53see that this is the the the head of the
- 31:55tide coming in. So it's a flooding tide
- 31:58coming up this river. And what people do
- 32:01is they surf these. Let's watch this
- 32:03video of a tidal bore happening on the
- 32:06Amazon
- 32:08River. What a
- 32:10perfect. Look at this thing.
- 32:13Absolutely
- 32:16perfect.
- 32:20Nobody. Oh my
- 32:23god. And then it got serious. What
- 32:26happened next stunned everyone.
- 32:33Perhaps it was the effect of the super
- 32:35moon.
- 32:37But then came the biggest, most
- 32:39perfectly formed poroca wave any human
- 32:43has ever seen. And it was all roles to
- 32:47ride.
- 32:55We're out here in the Amazon. You're
- 32:56away from cities and you know the
- 32:58pollution and stuff. You got just this
- 33:01the water's brown but it's not dirty.
- 33:02It's just so when tides are coming into
- 33:04these areas, we call them flooding. So
- 33:07water is rushing up a bay or river with
- 33:10the incoming tide or the flooding tide.
- 33:12We said if it's retreating, water drains
- 33:15from the bay or river as the tide goes
- 33:17out. It's called an ecurren. We have
- 33:19other terminology called high slack
- 33:21water. That's the peak of each high tide
- 33:23with no current motion. So high tides
- 33:26will come in and then there's a point in
- 33:29time when they then start to that's
- 33:31coming in or flooding before they
- 33:34maximize their high tide or at the point
- 33:37it's high tide then they're going to be
- 33:39no current motion for that one point in
- 33:42time and then they'll start ebbing out
- 33:44of the river or estuary. Low slack water
- 33:47is the same peak of each low tide where
- 33:49there's no current motion. So we can see
- 33:51that here on this chart. This is the
- 33:55tidal range. So we have a high tide and
- 33:59a high tide and a low tide and a low
- 34:01tide. Uh one phase here a dural phase.
- 34:06But look at the current velocity. So
- 34:09when you go to the low water or low tide
- 34:13that velocity goes to zero. Okay? And
- 34:16then you return to moving water. So that
- 34:19moving water in and out of these areas,
- 34:21this tidal motion actually on the high
- 34:24tide and on the low tide stop for one
- 34:26instant of time. That velocity is zero.
- 34:29Some weird stuff can happen if your
- 34:31tides are coming into or out of uh
- 34:34geomorphic areas that are unique. Uh,
- 34:38one thing that may happen is you have a
- 34:41maelstrom that's in the Arctic
- 34:45Norway and it is uh rapidly spinning
- 34:49seawater. It's called a vortex and these
- 34:52typically happen when you are in a
- 34:54restricted channel connecting two basins
- 34:56of different tidal
- 34:59cycles. So there's an image of the
- 35:01Norwegian maelstrom. So can we use ties
- 35:05to generate power? We said we certainly
- 35:07might try with waves. Can the same be
- 35:09done for tides? The answer is yes. And
- 35:11there's primary two ways here. Tidal
- 35:13water can be trapped behind coastal
- 35:15barriers in bays and estuaries and that
- 35:18turns electrical turbines or tidal
- 35:20currents in narrow channels can turn
- 35:22underwater turbines.
- 35:26The pros of tidal generated power are
- 35:28it's much like wave power, clean,
- 35:31renewable, lower operating costs than
- 35:33fossil fuel burning power plants despite
- 35:35the initial higher cost of building
- 35:37them. The United Kingdom proposed
- 35:39building the world's first largest tidal
- 35:41power
- 35:43plant. Possible environmental concerns
- 35:45is it changes the habitat of submarine
- 35:48or organisms. you're altering the
- 35:50ecology of these rivers or estuaries
- 35:52where you're sort of essentially damning
- 35:55them and can affect migrations. Marine
- 35:58animals can become trapped in the moving
- 36:01tidal power devices called turbines and
- 36:04possibly noise can disrupt
- 36:06habitats. So here's one that has been
- 36:09successfully producing tidal power since
- 36:111966 in St. Moro, France. So you see
- 36:14that this is an estuary. you have to
- 36:17enclose it in concrete. Uh you have
- 36:20tides that are coming in and out on a
- 36:23tidal range or a tidal period. When that
- 36:26tide is ebbing, it is then held into
- 36:31this area. So an ebbing tide will create
- 36:34a whole bunch of water in the upper
- 36:36reaches. it's blocked off and then as
- 36:39the tide retreats it's um it then that
- 36:43high tide water which is trapped behind
- 36:45this barrier then can flow into the
- 36:48lower low tide area and that's going to
- 36:51drive a turbine and again we said before
- 36:54anytime you drive a turbine you can
- 36:55generate
- 36:56electricity. So there we have it. That
- 36:59was the end of our chapter 9 dealing
- 37:01with tides. I hope you enjoyed it and I
- 37:04hope you found some marine exploitation
- 37:08or marine innovation towards the end of
- 37:10that that might spur your interest in
- 37:11creating your
- 37:14fact. Take care. See you later.
About this transcript
This page contains the full transcript of Chapter 9 - Tides by Jeffrey Ashley, generated from the public captions YouTube serves with the video. The transcript has 5,851 words across 860 segments, with the original timestamps preserved so you can click any line to jump to that moment in the embedded player.
What you can do with it
Use the transcript to take notes, quote the speaker, build a study guide, generate a summary with ChatGPT or Claude via the YouTube Summary tool, or export it as a timed subtitle file with YouTube to SRT. You can also re-open it in the transcriber to translate the transcript into 100+ languages.
Free YouTube transcript tool
YouTube2Text is a free YouTube transcript generator — no signup, no daily limit. Paste any YouTube link and get the full transcript instantly, with timestamps, click-to-jump, translation to 100+ languages, AI prompts for ChatGPT, Claude, and Gemini, and exports to TXT, SRT, VTT, or Markdown.