Chapter 40: Find The Ideal Guitar Neck Angle Every Time! — Transcript
Full transcript
- 0:00[Music]
- 0:08we are now done with routing the truss
- 0:12rod slot so at this point most of these
- 0:16things on the neck can be done in a
- 0:18slightly different order but the truss
- 0:20rod slot was really the one thing we
- 0:22needed to do especially before we put
- 0:25the peg head veneers on because that
- 0:27would alter the way that this sat on the
- 0:30routing table and probably the way that
- 0:33it bumped up the fence as well now that
- 0:35we're done we can shape our Peg head we
- 0:40can get the angle correct on here we can
- 0:44we can do several things but I am going
- 0:48to take care of the neck angle right now
- 0:52doesn't have to be done in that order
- 0:54but that's what I'm going to do next so
- 0:56we are going to take a look at
- 0:58calculating the neck angle and getting
- 1:01that set and getting the uh mortise and
- 1:04Tenon bolts in so let's take a look now
- 1:07when we talk about neck angle we are
- 1:10talking about the angle that the neck
- 1:14sits in relation to this part of the
- 1:18guitar that we have nice and
- 1:21flat and most likely that's going to end
- 1:24up around somewhere between 88 to 90° um
- 1:28but we will figure that out more
- 1:30precisely right now the things that we
- 1:32need to figure out are where is our
- 1:36saddle so where's our saddle going to be
- 1:39inside that bridge down here we are
- 1:41going to get our saddle location
- 1:46by taking our total scale length and
- 1:50subtracting the nut to 14th
- 1:54fret now we have a total of 645
- 2:005.16 mm for our total scale and if you
- 2:05remember we are at
- 2:2237.774929
- 2:277.39 MM which is going to get us from
- 2:30the neck back here to our saddle but we
- 2:35also want to uh account for some
- 2:38compensation which we will get to later
- 2:40but we're going to add about 2 mm for
- 2:43that so we're going to end up at
- 2:4628939 from here to
- 2:49here so let's get that measure we're
- 2:51going to do that right on the center
- 2:54line
- 2:5828939 and and getting that 39 is going
- 3:02to be a little tricky right all right
- 3:07two
- 3:0989 we want to look
- 3:12for about 3 and 1 12 millim right here
- 3:16here is our saddle
- 3:18location and what we want to imagine is
- 3:23if we had a line coming off of our neck
- 3:27straight through this top part hitting
- 3:30here what is this Gap here we want about
- 3:353 and a half millimeters right here now
- 3:38you can take
- 3:39that with
- 3:41a uh ruler or if you have a
- 3:46shim which I do made a shim especially
- 3:49for this that is where I sit it if I
- 3:53didn't have the shim I would have to
- 3:55have one hand here measuring it and get
- 3:58another hand back here and try to
- 3:59measure this and get this angle so if
- 4:02you can get a shim and shave one down to
- 4:043 and2 mm it works out much better
- 4:08so what I want to do is figure out what
- 4:14this Gap is I do want to have a little
- 4:17bit of air right here at right at this
- 4:21Leading Edge of the sound hole and the
- 4:24way I can measure that is by finding
- 4:26something that has some sort of
- 4:28measurable thick thickness card stock
- 4:32heavy fiber
- 4:34paper maybe one of your veneers um one
- 4:37of your your very thin veneers and I
- 4:40will put
- 4:43that right
- 4:48there so I'll slide it back along the
- 4:52ruler or my straight edge until I
- 4:56feel that there's some resistance there
- 4:59and I don't want to force it underneath
- 5:01and artificially Force this end up I
- 5:04just want to see where that's kind of
- 5:06where that tension is where that's tight
- 5:08and then I will mark it with a
- 5:13pencil and in this case it is right
- 5:16along that outer edge of the purling so
- 5:19it's super easy to keep track of I will
- 5:21take my sliding bevel I'll use this to
- 5:25find my angle so that I can duplicate it
- 5:27on the neck I'm going to put my piece of
- 5:31fiber exactly where I had marked it
- 5:35before I have that angle in
- 5:39place tighten the bevel
- 5:42down and that looks to be just under 90°
- 5:49on the back just a little bit so let's
- 5:51take a look here is
- 5:55our cut off line right there which means
- 5:59all this is is waste right so that still
- 6:01has to get cut off and then this 7/8
- 6:05here is our Tenon that means that this
- 6:09is going to be our shoulder line which
- 6:12is where I want to um put the
- 6:14measurement for the new neck angle which
- 6:16we just got I'm going to lay that on top
- 6:19of the
- 6:21neck hopefully you can see
- 6:24that this angle is just under 90° so if
- 6:29it's probably around 89 88 and2
- 6:33somewhere around there what it is
- 6:36isn't exactly important it's not vital
- 6:40to know the precise angle but it is
- 6:43vital to repeat that angle from the neck
- 6:47joint over to the neck so we can get
- 6:49this
- 6:51correct you should have gotten something
- 6:54that looks like these now these are
- 6:56going to be the mortise and Tenon nuts
- 6:59and bolts so these barrels are going to
- 7:03go into the Tenon here well about there
- 7:08and here and then the bolts slide
- 7:13through the guitar body through the
- 7:15Tenon into the
- 7:18Tenon and hold it like
- 7:22this now in order to get these in we are
- 7:26going to drill some holes into the Tenon
- 7:30straight down through it I measure about
- 7:33an inch and an E from the top of the
- 7:39neck
- 7:44there
- 7:46and
- 7:48there and the reason that I want to get
- 7:51the neck angle prior to putting these in
- 7:55is so that I don't end up with with a
- 8:00hole that's too far out and especially
- 8:04here if this neck angle was too drastic
- 8:09this way then I would have to move this
- 8:12Tenon back to match it because I don't
- 8:15want this nut sticking too far towards
- 8:19the end of the Tenon because the grain
- 8:21that's out here is relatively weak
- 8:24because that's going to be ingrain that
- 8:26the stress is on and um it's just not as
- 8:29strong as as the long grain so we want
- 8:31to have this pretty far back towards
- 8:35this shoulder line and I keep mine about
- 8:382 mm
- 8:39off which means that if these are 10 mm
- 8:46wide which is what we're going to
- 8:49drill so the radius is 5 mm from the
- 8:53center plus two so that's 7 millim so
- 8:57I'm going to measure at these inch and
- 8:59an eighth lines here and here 7
- 9:02millimeters off of the shoulder and
- 9:05that's where I'm going to put my center
- 9:10line for um drilling these so it's going
- 9:14to be
- 9:18here
- 9:21and
- 9:23here let's take a look just double
- 9:26check yeah that looks about right I
- 9:29don't need to get right up close to this
- 9:31line cuz that's going to potentially
- 9:33impact the shoulder and could ding it
- 9:37put a a notch in it I don't want to do
- 9:40that I want this shoulder line to be
- 9:42nice and crisp and clean when it meets
- 9:44that guitar body so this looks good to
- 9:48me the final measurement on my
- 9:52neck height plus my heel cap I usually
- 9:57put it just below where the purling line
- 10:01is on the back so that it's not quite
- 10:03even with the back of the guitar but
- 10:06there's a little bit of a step here
- 10:08maybe 4 mm or so just so that the neck
- 10:13comes just under the purfling
- 10:15line if I cut
- 10:17this somewhere in the middle of the
- 10:20binding that will leave me enough room
- 10:23to come back sand this a little bit more
- 10:26put a heel cap on um and get my final so
- 10:30if I cut this off now um I can get rid
- 10:33of some of this excess material and then
- 10:35I don't have to uh deal with it when we
- 10:38are in the mortise anten and jig as well
- 10:41so I'm going to take this off I'm going
- 10:43to take this material off and I am going
- 10:46to drill these
- 10:53holes now I am also going to take off
- 10:57this line here
- 11:00this extra material on the front so be
- 11:03sure you don't cut back here on this
- 11:07Tenon line or the shoulder line I should
- 11:10say only cut
- 11:11up right here not here make sure that
- 11:16you have
- 11:20357.00 from the front of the
- 11:23nut out
- 11:26to this 14th fret line and 7/8 of an
- 11:31inch in front of that for our Tenon so
- 11:3735777 from the nut to the 14th fret and
- 11:427/8 of an inch in front of that for the
- 11:44Tenon double check that before we cut
- 11:47this off if you cut it back here or have
- 11:50something screwed up on your scale
- 11:51length and you cut this you're going to
- 11:53have to make a new neck so let's not do
- 11:56that I just double checked everything
- 11:58I'm good I'm going to cut off this
- 11:59excess and then get outside to the drill
- 12:03press to drill
- 12:08these okay now we are going to drill
- 12:13these barrel nut holes for the Tenon
- 12:17joint and we are going to use a 10 mm
- 12:22drill bit you can use a 3/8 but you'll
- 12:25end up having to ream it out quite a bit
- 12:27we may still have to a little bit with
- 12:29the tin but it's going to be much closer
- 12:31and much more
- 12:35accurate now we do not have to go all
- 12:40the way through and as a matter of fact
- 12:42most drill presses if you're using one
- 12:45and a drill press is going to be much
- 12:47more accurate than a um hand drill but
- 12:50the drill press is not going to go all
- 12:53the way through and punch out the other
- 12:55side but that's okay we don't need it to
- 12:57all we need it to do is come down and
- 13:00get through this Tenon so somewhere
- 13:03around here which most drill presses
- 13:06will get to and we just need to get past
- 13:10that um past that Center Line right
- 13:12around here to get that through the
- 13:14other side of the Tenon and then once we
- 13:17route out the Tenon you'll see that that
- 13:20hole is exposed just
- 13:22fine I've got my marks I'm using a
- 13:26bradpoint
- 13:28bit with a drill press it's a little
- 13:30less Critical with the Brad point but I
- 13:32still like to use one to line up my
- 13:34holes better and it just lets that bit
- 13:38track
- 13:42[Music]
- 13:49[Music]
- 13:53better now the last thing I want to
- 13:56touch on um in this this video is the
- 14:01heel
- 14:04cap so what I'm doing right now is just
- 14:06bringing this shoulder line all the way
- 14:12across this allows me to get a better
- 14:15look at what this heel shape heel
- 14:17pattern is going to look like where the
- 14:19heel cap goes this heel cap you
- 14:22mean you can make this heel just about
- 14:25any shape that you want you can do a
- 14:29kind of a D shape you can do one that
- 14:33is super
- 14:36pointed you can do one that's really
- 14:39wide and
- 14:41flat I mean you can really do just about
- 14:44anything you
- 14:45want the considerations are that you
- 14:50want it to be at least 78 wide so that
- 14:55you can get wider than your 10 and I
- 14:56like it just a little bit wider than
- 14:58that and about an inch deep at least I
- 15:04go a little bit further inch and an eth
- 15:07to at least start with and I may make
- 15:10that smaller bigger um you know it can
- 15:13make changes really anytime you want
- 15:16but this allows me to at least get a
- 15:19good look here and see what kind of
- 15:21shape I'm looking at here on this you
- 15:25can come back in you know come in and
- 15:28back out that gets a little too extreme
- 15:31on something um this short we want to be
- 15:35sure that we don't cut into this
- 15:40blank we can come right up to it just
- 15:43leave ourselves a couple millimeters at
- 15:45least so we want to go from here to
- 15:47about
- 15:56here there we go
- 16:00I'm good with that and then I'll cut
- 16:02this out on the band saw and you don't
- 16:05need a band saw to do this you can do
- 16:07this with a handsaw if if you do just
- 16:10use a handsaw one technique is to just
- 16:13make like a cut here cut here cut here
- 16:17and almost like a featherboard you just
- 16:20keep cutting into it like that and you
- 16:23can chip those out or you can make a big
- 16:25straight cut up here and a big straight
- 16:27cut up here um chisel it carve it and
- 16:30you actually don't need to do any of
- 16:32this right now I just like to make give
- 16:34myself a little bit less work when it
- 16:37comes to shaping the neck and if I don't
- 16:40have to take a file or a rasp or
- 16:44something and chunk out all this
- 16:45material that's much better so I'm going
- 16:48to cut this on the band saw and then we
- 16:51will move on
- 16:59taking all this out with a file or a
- 17:02rasp or sandpaper would be a lot of work
- 17:05I just want to avoid that now we've got
- 17:07our holes for our um the nuts for the
- 17:10mortise we've got our Peg head thickest
- 17:15we've got the truss rod slot we've got
- 17:18the heel somewhat shaped we've got quite
- 17:22a bit done thus far now next we are
- 17:26going to take a look at actually machine
- 17:29in the mortise and Tenon so we're going
- 17:32to be making the mortise inside the
- 17:36guitar body and the Tenon on here so
- 17:41let's get on to that in the next video
- 17:49[Music]
- 17:50[Applause]
- 17:58w
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