Bethany Hamilton Tells Her Story.... — Transcript

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1. 0:04[Music]
2. 0:12I first I first met Bethany I think when
3. 0:14she was about 13 and I was maybe 15 or
4. 0:1616 and we were both riding for Rip Curl
5. 0:19and kind of met her surfed hang out hung
6. 0:21out with her for a week and then about a
7. 0:23year later I I read in the paper that
8. 0:25she' had an accident and she her arm had
9. 0:27been taken by a shark and I R I rang the
10. 0:30rill team manager and I was just like
11. 0:32tripping out and I immediately thought
12. 0:33like oh she'll like you know if it was
13. 0:36me I would never probably never would
14. 0:37have gone anywhere near the water again
15. 0:39I would have moved to the middle of
16. 0:40Australia not gone near the
17. 0:43ocean at first it kind of like when it
18. 0:46first happened it did like cuz like I
19. 0:49was just freaked out and like cuz like I
20. 0:52saw like everything like it just like
21. 0:54scared me to go back in the water I
22. 0:56wouldn't think like she was going to
23. 0:58surf with me again or anything
24. 1:00[Music]
25. 1:06not being able to Surf I don't know
26. 1:08maybe it went through my mind once but
27. 1:12um I tried not to dwell on it and I
28. 1:14wasn't going to say make any um major
29. 1:18plans until I tried it and see how it
30. 1:21went you
31. 1:28know it was my Cho choice to um try
32. 1:31surfing again and once I did it I knew I
33. 1:34was going to be doing it for a long time
34. 1:36and
35. 1:37um yeah I don't know I just I love it
36. 1:40too much to qu stop
37. 1:43[Music]
38. 1:54then well uh I was born and raised in um
39. 1:57one of the best places to surf in the
40. 1:59world
41. 2:00um Hawaii Kawai and um all my family
42. 2:04surfed and taught me how to surf when I
43. 2:06was about like two three and um I Just
44. 2:10As I Grew Older and kept surfing I fell
45. 2:12in love with it and um I've just been
46. 2:14surfing ever since and just my
47. 2:19thing the hardest thing in surfing um
48. 2:22after the attack was probably just like
49. 2:25learning how to stand up and um not
50. 2:28really balance issues but just standing
51. 2:30up and positioning yourself in the right
52. 2:33place waiting for the wave and to catch
53. 2:36it and just all figuring it all out is
54. 2:40all pretty
55. 2:43hard my first time surfing was like 3
56. 2:46weeks after I think and um I just went
57. 2:50out on a longboard in the kitty white
58. 2:52water and um I like struggled like my
59. 2:55first two times and then I got up on my
60. 2:58first way or my third wave and um rode
61. 3:02it all the way in and it was just so
62. 3:03exciting and I just had like tears of
63. 3:05joy and I was just like I had that stok
64. 3:09even though it wasn't like a good wave
65. 3:10it was like exciting for me and then um
66. 3:14it just went up from there
67. 3:21[Music]
68. 3:37I think she's an absolute
69. 3:38freak I I I just can't get it I can't
70. 3:42believe that she would just she would
71. 3:43still be surfing and still be in the
72. 3:45water not only surfing but she rips like
73. 3:47she gets you know takes off late on 6ot
74. 3:51waves and I don't even know how she gets
75. 3:52up personally like I was sitting there
76. 3:54Steph and I were going how do she do it
77. 3:56like we like you know when we go home
78. 3:58we're going to going to try just stand
79. 4:00up with one arm and like couldn't do it
80. 4:03there's no
81. 4:07way I don't know I can't even describe
82. 4:09it myself she's so you know Keen to get
83. 4:13out there and have fun and something as
84. 4:16huge as that as getting her arm taken by
85. 4:18a shark is just not keeping her out of
86. 4:20the water and that's just um oh it's
87. 4:23just mindblowing and she's out there and
88. 4:26she's surfing so well like the turns
89. 4:28that she does are so amazing and she's
90. 4:30you know off the top just FS out she
91. 4:33doesn't care that she's only got one arm
92. 4:35she's just having the time for l
93. 4:38[Music]