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13 Plantas Que DEBES Plantar en Octubre Para Comer Todo el Invierno — Transcript

by El Jardín de Waldo · 4,957 words · 701 segments · language en · Watch on YouTube

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0:00Almost everyone makes the same mistake
0:02in October. They pull up their tomato
0:05plants, leave the soil empty until
0:07spring, and spend the winter buying
0:10vegetables they could have at home.
0:13I’m Waldo. If you want to eat from
0:15your garden 12 months of the year, stay
0:18and subscribe. And if you want the full
0:20calendar, my guide is in the link in
0:22the description. Today I’m giving you
0:2513 plants that need to go into the
0:27ground this month and exactly how to
0:29plant each one. Before the first one, a
0:32quick thing. If you're watching from
0:35Argentina, Chile, Uruguay, or any
0:36southern country, save this video for
0:38March and April, which is your October
0:40there. Everything I’m about to say
0:43still applies, just with a six-month
0:45difference. And why October, and not
0:47later? Because October is the only
0:50month of the year where you play with
0:51three cards in your favor at once. The
0:54soil still holds the summer heat, so
0:56the seeds sprout quickly. The rains
0:59begin, so you water less. And the hard
1:02cold hasn't arrived yet, so plants have
1:04a few weeks to take root before winter
1:06slows them down. If you plant in
1:09November, you lose the first card. The
1:12soil is already cold, seeds take twice
1:14as long to sprout, and many rot before
1:16they come up. Our grandparents summed
1:19it up in a saying: "Dry or wet, by St.
1:21Luke’s have it sown." St. Luke’s is
1:25October 18th. It wasn't superstition,
1:27it was the calendar. And a quick test
1:30before planting anything. Grab a
1:32handful of soil and squeeze it in your
1:34hand. If it drips water or turns into a
1:37ball of mud, wait a couple of days for
1:40it to drain. If it crumbles when you
1:42touch it with your finger, it’s ready
1:44. I’m going to give them to you in
1:46order. From the one that’s harvested
1:47first to the one that takes the longest
1:49. You’ll be eating the first one in 4
1:52weeks. The last one takes 8 months, but
1:55it yields the most all year, and with
1:57it, you’ll never buy again. And at
2:00the end, I’ll tell you the three
2:02things that ensure none of this dies in
2:04the first frost, because that’s where
2:06most people lose everything. Number one
2:09, radishes. It’s the fastest plant in
2:12the garden and the best one to start
2:14with, because in four or five weeks
2:16you’re already eating. They are sown
2:19directly into the soil, never in a
2:20seedbed, my friend, because they don't
2:22handle transplanting well. Make a
2:25furrow 1 cm deep and sow the seeds in a
2:27thin line as if you were sprinkling
2:30salt. An old-school trick. Mix seeds
2:33with a handful of fine sand before
2:35sowing. That way they fall more spaced
2:38out, and you don't have to pull as many
2:39later. When they have two or three
2:42leaves, thin them out, leaving one
2:44plant every 3 or 4 cm. If you leave
2:48them crowded, they grow leaves but no
2:50root. The mistake I see most with
2:52radishes is leaving them in the ground
2:54too long. An overgrown radish becomes
2:57hollow, woody, and very spicy. As soon
3:00as the red shoulder shows and it's the
3:03size of a large marble, pull it. And
3:05instead of sowing a whole packet at
3:07once, sow 1 meter of row every two
3:10weeks. This way you don't have 40
3:12radishes on the same day and none the
3:14following month. You get a handful
3:16every week throughout the autumn. If
3:19you want something for deep winter,
3:21look for winter radishes, the long
3:24white ones or the black ones. They take
3:26longer, about two months, but they last
3:28in the soil for weeks without spoiling,
3:31and you harvest them as you need them.
3:34Number two, arugula. Arugula. If you've
3:39ever sown it in spring and it bolted in
3:41two weeks, becoming bitter and tough,
3:43it's not your fault. Arugula hates heat
3:46and long days. As soon as it senses
3:49them, it goes to seed. In October, the
3:51opposite happens. The days get shorter,
3:53it's cool, and the plant stays leafy,
3:55tender, and with a mild spice it
3:57doesn't have in summer. Sow it almost
4:01on the surface, at half a centimeter,
4:03in a thin line or broadcast, and cover
4:05with a very thin layer of soil. It
4:08sprouts in a few days. In four to six
4:10weeks you can start harvesting. And
4:12here is the key to making it last for
4:14months. Do not pull the plant. Cut the
4:17leaves a couple of fingers above the
4:19ground with scissors and leave the
4:20heart. It will sprout again and you can
4:23cut it again. A single October sowing
4:25can give you three or four cuts before
4:27spring. Sow it close to the kitchen. It
4:32sounds silly, but the greens you have
4:33five steps from the door are the ones
4:35you actually eat in winter when it's
4:37raining and you don't want to cross the
4:39garden. Number three, corn salad, which
4:42in many places is called field lettuce.
4:45If you like salad in winter, this is
4:47your plant. It handles the cold better
4:50than any lettuce, so much so that in
4:52some areas they call it exactly that,
4:54winter lettuce. While the others stop,
4:58corn salad keeps growing slowly between
5:00frosts. The best time to sow them
5:03starts at the end of summer, and
5:05October is still perfect. Don't wait
5:08until November. Broadcast or sow in
5:10lines a palm apart at 1 cm deep and
5:13press the soil with your palm so the
5:16seed is well in contact. It is a seed
5:19that germinates slowly and dries out
5:20easily. So, during the first two weeks,
5:23the soil can never dry out. If it
5:26doesn't rain, a gentle watering every
5:27two days with a watering can, never a
5:29strong jet that unearths it. In 45 to
5:3350 days, you start harvesting. Cut the
5:37whole rosette at the base with a knife
5:39at ground level, and if you sow a
5:40little every 15 days until the end of
5:42the month, you'll have corn salad from
5:44December until well into spring. They
5:47are more nutritious than regular
5:48lettuce and have almost no pests. Few
5:50plants give you so much for so little
5:52work. Number four, spinach. Spinach is
5:57the most misunderstood plant in the
5:59garden. People plant it in spring; it
6:01sprouts, and a few weeks later it bolts
6:03and is ruined. It happens because
6:05spinach flowers as soon as the days get
6:07longer. If you sow it in October, it
6:10has the whole winter of short days
6:12ahead, and it is in no hurry to flower.
6:15It stays in leaf for months. Look for
6:19winter varieties. In almost any seed
6:22store, you will find the winter giant,
6:24which is the classic one. Sow directly
6:29into the soil at 2 cm deep, two or
6:32three seeds every 10 cm, in rows
6:35separated by about 25 or 30. Spinach
6:40seeds germinate poorly in warm soil.
6:43With the warm soil of October, it
6:45sprouts in a week or 10 days. A trick
6:49that works: soak it the night before
6:52sowing. When they sprout, leave the
6:55strongest one in each spot and don't
6:57feel bad about pulling the others.
6:59Three crowded spinach plants yield less
7:01than one with space. When you have five
7:05or six large leaves, start harvesting
7:07them from the outside. One by one, and
7:09always leave the ones in the center.
7:12The plant keeps producing from the
7:14heart. This way, instead of a single
7:17harvest, you have a steady trickle of
7:19leaves from December to March. And
7:22spinach asks a lot of food from the
7:24soil. If you add a good handful of
7:27compost before sowing, the leaves come
7:29out twice as big and a dark green you
7:31won't see in the supermarket. Number
7:35five, winter lettuce. The important
7:39word here is winter. A summer lettuce
7:42planted in October grows weak and rots
7:45with the humidity. There are varieties
7:48bred for generations to withstand the
7:50cold. Trocadero, romaine, butterhead,
7:53and oak leaf. Ask for those at the
7:56nursery or read the packet before
7:58buying. In October, I don't recommend
8:00sowing lettuce from seeds. Transplants,
8:03the seedlings already started, save you
8:05a whole month, which is just what you
8:07need before the cold sets in. Buy a
8:10tray of seedlings and plant them about
8:1310 to 12 inches apart. Now, the detail
8:17that kills more lettuce than the cold:
8:19the crown, which is the area where the
8:21roots meet the leaves. If you plant it
8:25too deep and the crown is buried, the
8:26autumn moisture will cause it to rot in
8:29two weeks. Plant the lettuce at the
8:32same depth it was in the tray, with the
8:34crown right at ground level, not a
8:36centimeter deeper, and water at the
8:38base, never over the top. In autumn, a
8:41leaf wet in the evening won't dry all
8:43night, which invites fungus; and keep
8:45an eye out for slugs. In October, with
8:48the rain, they come out at night and
8:50can strip an entire row down to the
8:52stems in one night. A tile or a board
8:55on the ground next to the lettuce acts
8:57as a hideout. In the morning, you lift
8:59it up and remove them by hand, without
9:01poison or spending a dime. Number six,
9:04Swiss chard. If I had to choose just
9:07one vegetable for winter, it would
9:09probably be this one. A well-planted
9:11chard in October gives you leaves from
9:13December until the end of spring
9:15without stopping. From the same plant.
9:17You can sow it or transplant it. If you
9:20sow, notice something curious. What
9:22looks like a chard seed is actually a
9:24small cluster with several seeds inside
9:26. That's why three or four little
9:28plants sprout from each spot. Put two
9:30seeds per hole at a depth of about an
9:33inch, and when they sprout, keep only
9:35the strongest one. If you use
9:37transplants, even better, because
9:39you'll be a month ahead. Leave about 12
9:41to 16 inches between each plant. It
9:45seems like a lot when they are small,
9:46but an adult chard is huge, and you
9:48harvest it just like spinach—never
9:50the whole plant. Cut the outer leaves
9:53at the base, always leaving the center
9:55heart. A single plant can give you a
9:58large leaf every few days for months,
10:00and with half a dozen plants at home,
10:02you won't run out of greens all winter.
10:04It handles the cold quite well, only
10:06suffering from hard, frequent frosts,
10:08and for that, I have what I mention at
10:10the end of the video. And when you see
10:12it send up a tall stalk with flowers in
10:14the spring, pull it out. It has done
10:16its job, and its space is needed for
10:17something else. We're halfway through,
10:19and so far, it’s all been leafy
10:21greens. the quick stuff, what feeds you
10:23this very winter. By the way, if you
10:25want this month by month, what to plant
10:28and when all year round? You have it in
10:30my guide with the link in the
10:31description. Now come the ones that
10:33work more slowly, and numbers 11 and 13
10:35are for me the most important in the
10:37video. Number seven, carrots. The
10:41autumn carrot is the sweetest of the
10:43whole year. When it's cold, the plant
10:46turns part of its starch into sugar to
10:49protect itself from frost. And you can
10:51notice that in the flavor. A carrot
10:54pulled in the middle of winter has
10:56nothing to do with a summer one. Mind
10:59you, I'll be honest, in October they
11:01grow slowly. In mild climate zones like
11:04the coast, you harvest them at the end
11:07of winter. Inland, where it freezes
11:09hard, it's best to sow them at the
11:11beginning of the month and protect them
11:13, because otherwise they can stay small
11:15. They are sown directly, never
11:18transplanted because the root gets
11:20twisted. Prepare the soil loose and
11:23deep, without stones. Any stone will
11:25deform it. 1 cm furrow. Seeds mixed
11:29with sand like radishes. And here comes
11:32the important part. Carrots take time
11:35to sprout, sometimes two or three weeks
11:37, and during all that time the soil
11:40cannot crust over or dry out. The
11:43grandparents 'trick was to cover the
11:45furrow with a wet burlap sack or a
11:47board and lift it as soon as the first
11:50green threads were seen. When they are
11:53about 5 cm, thin them out and leave one
11:56every 4 or 5 cm. For heavy soils, look
12:00for the Chantenay variety, which is
12:02shorter and thicker. For loose soils,
12:05the Nantes. And never add fresh manure.
12:08The carrot will fork, get hairy, and
12:11crack; better in a raised bed that was
12:14well fertilized for the previous crop.
12:17Number eight, cabbages. And here I
12:19include the whole family. Broccoli,
12:22cauliflower, and cabbage are the queens
12:24of the winter garden, the ones that
12:25fill the pot when there's nothing else.
12:29In October they are planted from
12:30seedlings, never from seed, because
12:32they need months to mature. And here we
12:35must be clear about the area. On the
12:37coast and in mild climates, October is
12:39perfect. In the cold interior, if you
12:42don't have them planted yet, do it in
12:44the first fortnight of the month at the
12:45latest or choose early varieties. They
12:49are large and hungry plants. Leave them
12:52between 50 and 60 cm between plants and
12:54prepare the hole with a good handful of
12:57compost or well-aged manure. When
13:00planting them, bury them deeper than
13:02they were, up to the first leaves. The
13:05opposite of lettuce. Cabbage likes to
13:07be buried deep because it grows roots
13:09from the stem, making it firmer against
13:11the wind. Firm the soil well around it
13:13with your foot and check the undersides
13:15of the leaves during the first few
13:17weeks. In mild autumns, the cabbage
13:19white butterfly still flies around,
13:21leaving its yellow eggs on the
13:23underside of the leaves. If you see
13:25them, rub them off with your finger,
13:26and that’s the end of the problem. If
13:28not, in a few days you'll have
13:30caterpillars eating the plant. A fine
13:32mesh cover, at least until the first
13:35cold snap, saves you all that work. A
13:38gift from broccoli that very few people
13:40take advantage of. When you cut the
13:42main head, don’t pull out the plant.
13:45Lateral shoots appear in the leaf axils
13:47, small buds that you can keep
13:48harvesting for weeks. A single plant
13:51gives you one large head and then many
13:54smaller ones; plant lettuce between the
13:56cabbages while they grow. There’s a
13:59saying that goes "between cabbages,"
14:02and that is exactly it. Lettuce is
14:05harvested in a couple of months before
14:07the cabbages take up that space. You
14:10make use of the same patch of soil
14:12twice. Number nine. Onions. The onions
14:17planted now aren't the ones for
14:19year-round storage; they're early ones
14:21that give you green onions in late
14:23winter and spring, just when the pantry
14:26supply runs out or starts to sprout.
14:29They are planted from seedlings or sets
14:31. If using seedlings, look for an early
14:34variety. The' Babosa 'is the classic
14:36one in Spain. Trim the roots and leaf
14:40tips slightly before planting, as our
14:42grandparents did, so the plant doesn't
14:44tire itself out supporting what it
14:46can't yet feed. Plant them shallow,
14:49barely burying the white part, 4 to 6
14:53inches apart, with rows spaced about 10
14:56to 12 inches. A typical mistake is
14:59burying them deep, thinking they’ll
15:01withstand the cold better. It’s the
15:04opposite. An onion buried too deeply
15:06produces a small, elongated bulb. And
15:09another detail almost nobody knows:
15:12don't put them next to fava beans or
15:14peas. Garlic and onions don't get along
15:17well with legumes. Put them in a
15:20different bed and each family will
15:21perform better. Over time, when you see
15:25the base of the onion thickening, you
15:27can start pulling a few tender ones for
15:29the kitchen and let the others keep
15:31growing. That way, the harvest begins
15:34much sooner than you think. Number 10.
15:38Peas. Many people think they are a
15:44spring crop, but in most of Spain, peas
15:46are sown in autumn, and by sowing them
15:48now, they reach spring with a head
15:50start. They handle frost without any
15:53issues. The only thing that happens to
15:55it in the cold is that it stops. When
15:58the temperature drops below 5 or 7
16:00degrees, it stops growing and waits.
16:04And when the heat of February or March
16:06arrives, it starts with roots that a
16:08spring planting doesn't have. Prepare
16:12rows spaced between 25 and 35 cm apart.
16:16Make holes about 3 cm deep, one every 5
16:20cm, and drop two or three seeds in each
16:24. If you soak them for an hour
16:27beforehand, they sprout faster and more
16:29evenly. And before you forget, the pea
16:32is a climbing plant. It needs something
16:35to climb on. Stick in some canes, put
16:38up a mesh, or as was done before, use
16:41dry pruned branches stuck along the row
16:44. If they don't have anywhere to grab
16:46on, they fall over, rot with the
16:48moisture, and you lose half the harvest
16:50. If you don't want to use supports,
16:53look for a dwarf variety that grows low
16:55and stands on its own. When the harvest
17:00comes in spring, pick them when the pod
17:02is full but still green and shiny,
17:04before it gets tough, and harvest often
17:06. The more pods you pick, the more
17:10flowers the plant produces. If you let
17:12the pods dry on the vine, the plant
17:14thinks it has finished its job and
17:16stops producing. But the pea has
17:19another gift, and it's the real reason
17:21I plant it. It's a legume. In its roots
17:24live bacteria that take nitrogen from
17:27the air and leave it in the soil. When
17:29you harvest it in spring, do not pull
17:31up the roots. Cut the plant at ground
17:34level and let them rot there. Whatever
17:36you plant in that spot afterward will
17:38thank you for it. And this leads us
17:40directly to the next one, which does
17:41the same thing, but on a larger scale.
17:44Number 11, fava beans. If I could only
17:47plant one legume this month, let it be
17:49this one. It is the quintessential
17:51autumn plant in Spain, so much so that
17:53it has its own saying. If you want to
17:55have a good fava crop, plant fava beans
17:57by the Pillar. The Pillar is October
17:5912th. We are right on the date. Before
18:02planting, put the seeds in warm water
18:05for 12 to 24 hours. They swell up,
18:07soften, and sprout much faster and more
18:10uniformly in 8 or 10 days. Afterwards,
18:13make holes 3 to 5 cm deep. Drop two or
18:16three seeds in each one and leave 30 to
18:1940 cm between each hole. If your soil
18:22is very clayey and gets waterlogged,
18:24plant them a little less deep so they
18:25don't rot before sprouting. The classic
18:28variety is the long-podded sweet water
18:30bean, and for warmer areas, the Muchael
18:32, which is earlier. Broad beans sown
18:35now spend the winter short and strong,
18:37and they bloom in the spring. When they
18:40are a hand-span tall, pile a little
18:41soil around their base. That is called
18:43hilling, and it supports them against
18:45the wind and cold. From sowing to the
18:48first green harvest, count on four to
18:50six months. And here is the trick that
18:53separates a good harvest from a bad one
18:55. When the plant has flowers and the
18:58first pods begin to set, cut the tip of
19:00each stem, the last few inches. That is
19:03where the black aphid settles, which is
19:05the number one pest for broad beans. By
19:08removing the tip, you take away its
19:10home, and the plant stops growing
19:12upward and sends all its energy to the
19:14pods. Those tender tips, by the way,
19:17are edible. Sautéed with a little oil
19:19and garlic. They are delicious. And
19:21like peas, broad beans leave the soil
19:24richer than they found it. It is the
19:26perfect plant for the garden bed where
19:28you had tomatoes this summer that left
19:30the soil exhausted. Just remember one
19:33thing: keep them away from garlic and
19:35onions. Number 12, strawberries. This
19:39surprises many people because we eat
19:41strawberries in the spring and think
19:43they are planted in the spring, but the
19:45large plantations in Huelva, where most
19:48of Spain's strawberries come from, are
19:50planted right now, between late
19:51September and late October. There must
19:54be a reason. A strawberry planted in
19:56autumn spends the winter rooting, and
19:58when spring arrives, you have a mature
20:00plant that produces fruit from the very
20:02beginning. If you plant it in the
20:04spring, it produces very little the
20:06first year. Buy healthy plants from the
20:09nursery, or if you already have
20:10strawberries, use the runners—those
20:12long stems they grow in summer with a
20:14little plant at the tip. Each one is a
20:16free new strawberry plant. Plant them
20:19about 30 cm apart. Water them well the
20:23day you plant them so the soil settles
20:25around the roots, and afterwards, only
20:27when it doesn't rain. Strawberries want
20:30moisture but not puddles. And now, the
20:32only thing that really matters: the
20:34crown. It is the center of the plant
20:37where the leaves come out. It must be
20:39exactly level with the ground. If you
20:42bury it, it rots. If you leave it too
20:45high, the roots dry out, plain and
20:47simple. Afterward, cover the soil
20:50around them with straw. The fruit rests
20:52on the straw instead of the mud, so it
20:54stays clean and doesn't rot. And in
20:56spring, when the plant starts to sprout
20:59runners, cut them during the harvest so
21:01all the energy goes into the fruit. A
21:04well-planted strawberry plant will give
21:06you fruit for three or four years in a
21:07row. And number 13, the king of the
21:10autumn garden: garlic. I told you at
21:13the beginning that this one takes the
21:15longest, 8 months, and gives you the
21:17most. And I told you that with this,
21:19you'll never buy it again. Now you're
21:21going to understand why. Garlic is
21:24planted from October to February, but
21:26the autumn one makes the largest bulbs
21:28because it spends all winter rooting
21:31and needs that cold. A garlic clove
21:33that doesn't get cold won't divide, and
21:35instead of a bulb, you get a single
21:37round ball. Choose well what you plant.
21:41The best is seed garlic, and if it's
21:43purple, even better, as it's the most
21:45widely grown in Spain and one of the
21:47best for storing. Supermarket garlic is
21:49sometimes treated so it doesn't sprout,
21:51and it doesn't always work. Separate
21:54the bulb into cloves just the day you
21:55are going to plant, not before, and
21:57keep the large outer ones; the tiny
21:59ones in the center go to the kitchen.
22:02The size of the bulb you harvest
22:03depends on the size of the clove you
22:05plant. Each clove goes with the tip
22:08facing up at a depth of one or two
22:10times its size, about 4 or 5 cm in
22:13loose soil. Between each clove, 10 to
22:1615 cm, and between rows about 30. Do
22:19not put it in a patch where there were
22:21garlic or onions the year before, nor
22:23next to legumes. And if your soil is
22:26heavy and clayey, plant it on a mound
22:28of soil a hand's span high so that
22:30winter rainwater drains and doesn't rot
22:32the cloves. After that, it hardly asks
22:35for anything. Little water, because
22:37garlic hates waterlogging. Remove the
22:39weeds that grow around it because it is
22:40a poor competitor. And in spring, if a
22:43coiled flower stalk appears in the
22:45center, cut it off. Our grandparents
22:46used to call it "castrating" the garlic
22:48. That is the flower. And if you leave
22:50it, the plant spends the energy on it
22:52that should go to the bulb. Harvest
22:54time comes between the end of June and
22:56July. The sign is this. When the lower
22:59leaves have dried and about half of the
23:01upper ones are still green, it's time.
23:04Not too early, or the bulb will be soft
23:06, and not too late, or the cloves will
23:08split open. Pry them out with a
23:12pitchfork, don't pull by the stem, and
23:14hang them in braids in the shade, in a
23:16dry and ventilated place for a few
23:18weeks. And now, the secret to never
23:22buying garlic again. From that harvest,
23:25set aside the best heads, the biggest
23:27and healthiest, and don't eat them.
23:30Save them to plant next October. Every
23:34clove you plant gives you back a whole
23:36head. Plant once, store the best, and
23:39repeat. That’s how families in this
23:42country did it for centuries, each with
23:44their own garlic, adapted year after
23:46year to their soil and climate. You pay
23:49for the seed only once in your life.
23:52And before the protections, a question
23:54you ask me a lot. Okay, Waldo, but
23:57where do I put everything? I'll tell
23:59you how I distribute it, which is how
24:01it was done at home, in four zones. In
24:05the first zone, where the tomatoes,
24:07peppers, or zucchini were this summer,
24:10go the fava beans and peas. Those
24:14summer crops left the soil depleted,
24:16and legumes are exactly what restore it
24:18without needing fertilizer. In the
24:21second zone, well away from the first,
24:23go the garlic and onions together. They
24:26are in the same family, need the same
24:28things, little water and loose soil,
24:30and that way they don't bother the
24:32legumes. In the third zone, the best
24:34fertilized with a good layer of compost
24:37, go the cabbages, chard, and spinach,
24:40which are the hungriest, and between
24:42them, in the gaps, the lettuce. And in
24:46the fourth, the loosest, stone-free
24:48soil, go the root vegetables, carrots
24:50and radishes in the same row. This is a
24:54very old trick. Mix radish seeds with
24:57carrot seeds and sow them both together
25:00. The radish sprouts in a few days,
25:03breaks the soil crust, and marks where
25:05the row is while the carrot takes its
25:08time. When you pull the radishes, at
25:12four or five weeks, you leave just the
25:14space the carrot needs to grow. Arugula
25:18and lamb's lettuce wherever they fit,
25:20and the closer to the kitchen, the
25:21better. And strawberries in a fixed
25:24corner because they will stay there for
25:26three or four years. With this layout,
25:29next year you just have to rotate.
25:32Where there were legumes, the cabbages
25:34go, taking advantage of the nitrogen
25:36they left behind. Where there were
25:38cabbages, the roots go, and so on. It
25:42is the age-old rotation and the reason
25:44why gardens in the past never got tired
25:46. 13 plants and each one in its place.
25:51Now for what I promised you: the three
25:53things that keep all this alive until
25:55spring. Because in winter, a garden is
25:58almost never lost to the cold; it’s
26:00lost to these three. The first is water
26:03. In winter, more plants die from
26:06drowning than from freezing. Cold,
26:09waterlogged soil rots the roots in just
26:11a few days. If your garden ends up with
26:14puddles when it rains, make raised beds
26:16. Even if they are only a hand’s
26:19breadth high, or ridges—which is
26:21simply mounding the soil into rows and
26:24planting on top. Excess water drains
26:26down the paths, and the root stays in
26:29moist soil, but not soaked. The second
26:32is mulch. Never leave the soil bare in
26:36winter. A layer of straw, dry leaves,
26:39or shredded pruning scraps about 2
26:41inches thick around your plants does
26:43three things at once. It keeps the
26:46ground warm at night, slows down weeds,
26:49and prevents heavy rain from compacting
26:51the soil. The leaves falling now in
26:54October are free mulch. Don't throw
26:56them away; take them to the garden.
26:58Just leave the base of the plants clear
27:00, especially for lettuce and
27:02strawberries, so they don't rot. The
27:05third is protection for frosty nights.
27:08You don't need a greenhouse; a thermal
27:11blanket, frost cloth—that thin white
27:13fabric sold at any farm store for very
27:15little money—placed over the plants
27:18or on wire hoops, gains you a few
27:20degrees on the nights that matter. You
27:23put it on when frost is forecasted and
27:25take it off when the good weather
27:26returns. With that, chard, lettuce, and
27:29spinach get through the winter without
27:32a scratch. And if you're ever caught
27:34without a blanket, a light watering in
27:36the afternoon before the frost helps
27:38more than you'd think, because damp
27:40soil holds more heat than dry soil. So
27:43let's recap what needs to go into the
27:46ground this month. Radishes, arugula,
27:50corn salad, spinach, winter lettuce,
27:53and chard to eat soon. Carrots, cabbage
27:58, onions, peas, and fava beans for the
28:01end of winter and spring. Strawberries
28:05for fruit and garlic for the whole year
28:08and forever. You don't need to plant
28:10everything. Choose three or four from
28:13this list, the ones your family eats
28:15most, and start this weekend. The
28:18important thing is that the soil
28:20doesn't sit empty until March. A winter
28:23garden isn't for showing off; it's so
28:25that in January, when the supermarket
28:26sells lettuce that has traveled 600
28:28miles, you can go down to your garden
28:30and cut your own. If this video has
28:33been helpful, subscribe and hit the
28:35like button. We’re continuing each
28:37month with the garden chores, just like
28:39our grandparents did. And tell me in
28:41the comments what you’re planning to
28:43plant this October. In the next video,
28:46we'll cover what needs to be done in
28:47November, which also has its tricks.

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