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1 листопада 2026 р. — Transcript

by Marina Serpeninova · 2,827 words · 399 segments · language en · Watch on YouTube

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  1. 0:00So uh we have reached the most
  2. 0:02interesting part of our course which is
  3. 0:04about working with fiber and eyebrow
  4. 0:07extension patterns. There are two types
  5. 0:09of fiber. There is straight fiber and
  6. 0:12then there is fiber with a curl as well
  7. 0:14as fiber that has just a minimal slight
  8. 0:17curled bend. Sometimes brow artists call
  9. 0:20it curly fiber but in fact it has a very
  10. 0:23slight subtle curl. In our work, we will
  11. 0:26utilize two distinct types of fiber,
  12. 0:28both straight and curled. We will be
  13. 0:30extending these fibers onto the hair,
  14. 0:32carefully selecting between the straight
  15. 0:34or curled options. Ultimately, we will
  16. 0:37decide which specific fiber to extend
  17. 0:39onto the natural hair based on the shape
  18. 0:41and texture of the natural hair itself.
  19. 0:44If the hair is naturally curled, we will
  20. 0:46apply the curled fiber. If the hair is
  21. 0:49naturally straight, we will proceed to
  22. 0:51apply the straight fiber to it
  23. 0:53accordingly. However, a very important
  24. 0:56clarification to keep in mind is that if
  25. 0:59we need to work on specific targeted
  26. 1:01areas of the skin, we will exclusively
  27. 1:03apply the straight fiber. The curled
  28. 1:06fiber is not fixed onto the skin.
  29. 1:09Which fiber or rather which brands of
  30. 1:12fiber can we use? I have already sent
  31. 1:15you the lists of materials that we need
  32. 1:17for our work and it included fiber from
  33. 1:19the Lashkaf brand. At the moment, this
  34. 1:22is the only brand in Ukraine that can
  35. 1:25offer us fiber for eyebrow extensions,
  36. 1:28specifically straight and slightly
  37. 1:29curled in various shades of brown and in
  38. 1:32two thicknesses, 0.07 and 0.1.
  39. 1:37If it happens that lash cafe does not
  40. 1:39have the readymade fiber in stock or if
  41. 1:42it requires a waiting period of 10 to 14
  42. 1:45days, in that case we can turn to
  43. 1:47eyelash extension brands and utilize
  44. 1:50their curls. For instance, the J curl
  45. 1:52from the lash zone brand in various
  46. 1:54shades of brown or lashes from the
  47. 1:57Vilmoo brand in the corresponding curl.
  48. 2:00They also come in various shades of
  49. 2:02brown. However, I must warn you right
  50. 2:04away that there really aren't many brown
  51. 2:06shades available in eyelash extensions
  52. 2:08for these specific types of curls simply
  53. 2:11because these particular curls aren't
  54. 2:13very popular for extensions. You might
  55. 2:15find some light brown or dark brown
  56. 2:17shades available, but for instance, a
  57. 2:19specific shade like gray brown, which
  58. 2:21the brand Lash Cave offers us, might not
  59. 2:23be there at all. It is quite limited.
  60. 2:26And I also want to draw your attention
  61. 2:28to the fact that these curls, the B
  62. 2:30curls and J curls for eyelash extensions
  63. 2:34will be more curled than the same curled
  64. 2:36fiber for eyebrows from the Lashk brand.
  65. 2:40And if you work with eyelash extension
  66. 2:42lashes, the result might not look
  67. 2:45entirely natural as these are after all
  68. 2:48lashes for eyelash extensions and they
  69. 2:51have a more pronounced curl. What other
  70. 2:53parameters does the fiber for eyebrow
  71. 2:55extensions have? First of all, it's the
  72. 2:57thickness. I want to clarify right away
  73. 2:59that the brows we use for eyebrow
  74. 3:01extensions are actually the exact same
  75. 3:03lashes that are used for eyelash
  76. 3:05extensions. They are just straight and
  77. 3:08slightly curved. It is the same fiber
  78. 3:10that we use for lashes and we use it for
  79. 3:12brows. There is no separate fiber made
  80. 3:15for brows. Yes, there is that point. So
  81. 3:18you understand that these are the same
  82. 3:19lashes used for extensions where the
  83. 3:22thickness is strictly regulated. You
  84. 3:24can't make them slightly thicker than
  85. 3:26they are or slightly thinner than they
  86. 3:28are. There are strictly regulated
  87. 3:31thicknesses. For example, 0.03, 0.05,
  88. 3:350.06, 0.07. We work with the 0.07
  89. 3:39thickness. 0.085. It's almost never even
  90. 3:42used in lash extensions. We will use 0.1
  91. 3:45for eyebrow extensions as well as 0.12
  92. 3:49and 0.15 thicknesses. When applying
  93. 3:52eyebrow extensions, we typically use two
  94. 3:54thicknesses. 0.1, which is a thicker
  95. 3:57hair, and 0.07,
  96. 4:00which is a much finer hair. In our
  97. 4:03practice, we find that we most often
  98. 4:05reach for the 0.07 thickness. We rarely
  99. 4:09use the 0.1 thickness or we use it as an
  100. 4:12addition to our work. That is by mixing
  101. 4:15the 0.1 and 0.07 thicknesses. Girls,
  102. 4:19make a note somewhere that 0.1 thickness
  103. 4:21is a thicker fiber. 0.07 thickness is a
  104. 4:25thinner fiber, and we still use 0.07
  105. 4:28most often. You might ask me, how do you
  106. 4:31choose the thickness for your work in
  107. 4:32general? How do I determine which fiber
  108. 4:35thickness I should use for extensions at
  109. 4:37any given moment? We choose based on the
  110. 4:40thickness of the natural lash. I will
  111. 4:42create a separate section in this course
  112. 4:44where I will simply upload before and
  113. 4:46after work and write down which color we
  114. 4:49used and which thicknesses were involved
  115. 4:51in the work. I will be posting collages
  116. 4:54for you featuring both my own personal
  117. 4:55work and the work of my students. This
  118. 4:57way you can immediately start to develop
  119. 4:59your observational skills regarding
  120. 5:01exactly which fiber we used where when
  121. 5:04we use specific mixes and how each color
  122. 5:06looks on different types of eyebrows. It
  123. 5:09is really helpful to see these details
  124. 5:10up close. Also, besides thickness,
  125. 5:13synthetic fiber has a parameter such as
  126. 5:15length. The length we use in eyebrow
  127. 5:18extensions is 4 mm. Very rarely. Only
  128. 5:22sometimes can I fill in 4 mm directly on
  129. 5:24the skin here and there. Five, six,
  130. 5:26seven, and eight are quite often used.
  131. 5:29These are definitely our most popular
  132. 5:30lengths for the work we do. And while I
  133. 5:33almost never actually use nine, I still
  134. 5:35keep it in stock just in case, you know,
  135. 5:37just in case I ever find myself needing
  136. 5:39it for a specific client. There are also
  137. 5:42four colors of fiber for eyebrow
  138. 5:44extensions offered to us by the Lashk
  139. 5:47brand. And currently, Lashk offers us
  140. 5:49the largest color palette for eyebrow
  141. 5:51extensions. This is the blonde color. I
  142. 5:54have never used it. When clients with
  143. 5:57light eyebrows come in, we tint them,
  144. 5:59dye them, and I have never done
  145. 6:00extensions for them. But I have a real
  146. 6:03dream to do blonde extensions for
  147. 6:05someone. Next up in the collection are
  148. 6:07brown, dark brown, and gray brown. These
  149. 6:10three specific shades in particular will
  150. 6:12quickly become your go-to colors. You
  151. 6:15will find yourself using them quite
  152. 6:16often in your work and you should always
  153. 6:19choose the color based on the specific
  154. 6:21tone of your client's natural hair or
  155. 6:23simply how it appears to look naturally.
  156. 6:26If you have tinted your client's
  157. 6:27eyebrows, then you match the color to
  158. 6:30the already tinted brow hair. There is
  159. 6:32also an important point to consider.
  160. 6:34Straight fibers and curled fibers in the
  161. 6:37same palette. For example, if you order
  162. 6:40gray brown, you will receive both
  163. 6:42straight and curled fibers. And you
  164. 6:44might notice that the straight fiber has
  165. 6:46one specific undertone while the curled
  166. 6:49fiber has a slightly different
  167. 6:50undertone. This happens because the
  168. 6:53straight fiber is not heat treated. It
  169. 6:55is simply cut to the length you need.
  170. 6:58However, the curled fiber is heat
  171. 7:00treated so that the synthetic hairs get
  172. 7:02the exact curl we need for the final
  173. 7:04product. And it is precisely during the
  174. 7:07heat treating of the fiber in the oven
  175. 7:10that its color undertone can change and
  176. 7:12it may look slightly different than the
  177. 7:14straight fiber. But this is not visible
  178. 7:16in the work itself because on the
  179. 7:18palette we see many hairs together and
  180. 7:22can see the color difference. And when
  181. 7:24we apply these hairs to the eyebrows we
  182. 7:27no longer see the color difference.
  183. 7:31You will see this moment. You will
  184. 7:32notice it. Do not think that this is a
  185. 7:35defect. These are just the peculiarities
  186. 7:37of production because the curved fiber
  187. 7:40is baked in ovens and without baking we
  188. 7:43cannot obtain a curved fiber. Are there
  189. 7:45any standard schemes for applying
  190. 7:48artificial hairs to natural ones? That
  191. 7:50is for laying out the eyebrows
  192. 7:52themselves, eyebrow schemes so to speak.
  193. 7:55No. In reality, there are no specific
  194. 7:57eyebrow styling schemes. That was a very
  195. 8:00long time ago. I already said that's not
  196. 8:02true. Our most important scheme is the
  197. 8:04one that suits our client. And the only
  198. 8:07scheme that suits our client is the one
  199. 8:09according to which her natural eyebrows
  200. 8:11grow. How the beginning of the eyebrow
  201. 8:13grows, how the body of the eyebrow
  202. 8:15grows, how the tail grows. In order to
  203. 8:19perform a truly natural eyebrow
  204. 8:21extension, we must identically one to
  205. 8:23one repeat the natural growth direction
  206. 8:26of the eyebrow hairs exactly as they are
  207. 8:29by nature without inventing anything new
  208. 8:32ourselves.
  209. 8:34That is how most of the hairs grow, what
  210. 8:38pattern of the eyebrow they form. That
  211. 8:41is how we must place the hairs on the
  212. 8:43hairs, the artificial hairs on the
  213. 8:45natural ones. do not change their
  214. 8:48direction with artificial hair. It
  215. 8:50simply cannot be that the hairs on the
  216. 8:52tail naturally grow downwards and yet
  217. 8:54you glue them upwards instead just as if
  218. 8:57you had performed a professional eyebrow
  219. 8:59lamination procedure on them. You must
  220. 9:01not do that. If you want to change the
  221. 9:04direction of your hair growth, you must
  222. 9:06first perform the eyebrow lamination
  223. 9:08procedure. Only then do you fix each
  224. 9:11fiber in the new direction setting them
  225. 9:14exactly how you want them to be. But if
  226. 9:17the hairs grow in one direction and you
  227. 9:20fix them in another unfortunately
  228. 9:22firstly it will look untidy and the work
  229. 9:25will look messy. Secondly, it won't be
  230. 9:28wearable as you will have a minimal
  231. 9:30contact area for adhesion. The second
  232. 9:32rule is not to work with a single
  233. 9:34length. There is a tendency among girls
  234. 9:37who start working with eyebrow
  235. 9:39extensions to get attached to one
  236. 9:41specific length of eyebrow hair and work
  237. 9:43only with it. For example, they liked 7
  238. 9:46mm and they extend the entire eyebrow
  239. 9:49exclusively with 7 mm. In reality, that
  240. 9:52doesn't work. This work will not look
  241. 9:54natural. In one extension session, we
  242. 9:57need to use all lengths 4 5 6 7 and 8
  243. 10:00mm. We rarely use 4 mm. Basically we
  244. 10:04work with five, six, seven and 8 mm.
  245. 10:07Which lengths do I place on the eyebrow
  246. 10:10first? First of all, I place the long
  247. 10:12lengths. These are seven and 8 mm
  248. 10:16forming a kind of foundation for the
  249. 10:18future shape. Here I have immediately
  250. 10:20shown you an example of how I worked
  251. 10:22with the beginning of the eyebrow which
  252. 10:24I needed to make thicker. I first placed
  253. 10:27seven and 8 mm on the lower hairs and
  254. 10:30then I placed them on the middle hairs.
  255. 10:32meaning I went a little higher, not on
  256. 10:34one straight line, but just a bit higher
  257. 10:36up. I then placed another seven eight
  258. 10:39millimeters, but this time with a
  259. 10:41smaller number of hairs. And for the
  260. 10:43very top hairs, I also placed 7 to 8 mm,
  261. 10:47but I made sure to place even fewer of
  262. 10:49them there. The largest number of long
  263. 10:52hairs should still go along the lower
  264. 10:55line of the eyebrow because that is
  265. 10:57exactly where our longest hairs grow
  266. 10:59naturally. And the higher we move up our
  267. 11:02eyebrow towards the top line, the fewer
  268. 11:04long hairs grow there. In the next
  269. 11:07stage, I carefully formed the base of my
  270. 11:09eyebrow. And for that base, I used five
  271. 11:12and 6 mm to ensure a very natural and
  272. 11:14realistic look. For the final result, I
  273. 11:17placed the five and six mm strands right
  274. 11:20between the long hairs once again in a
  275. 11:23staggered pattern. That is to say, I
  276. 11:25continue to work on building up the
  277. 11:27volume from the very beginning of my
  278. 11:29eyebrow using those shorter lengths of
  279. 11:31five and six millimeters nestled between
  280. 11:33the long hairs. By the way, just so you
  281. 11:36know, I don't fill in the entire eyebrow
  282. 11:38with long hairs first, then move on to
  283. 11:40the shorter ones and finally the even
  284. 11:42shorter ones. No, I don't do that
  285. 11:44because I might get confused. I divide
  286. 11:47the eyebrow into zones for myself. I
  287. 11:49divide it into the beginning, the body,
  288. 11:51and the tail. and I work on them
  289. 11:53separately. First, I fill in the
  290. 11:55beginning of the eyebrow, then I fill in
  291. 11:57the body of the eyebrow, and then I fill
  292. 11:59in the tail. In other words, I move step
  293. 12:02by step. Of course, you can choose to
  294. 12:04work in a chaotic manner uh and just
  295. 12:06place these individual hairs here,
  296. 12:08there, and everywhere, which will form a
  297. 12:10chaotic eyebrow shape. However, I find
  298. 12:13it much more convenient to work in
  299. 12:14specific organized zones. But really,
  300. 12:17you are free to choose whatever method
  301. 12:19feels most comfortable for you. And so
  302. 12:22once I have carefully placed the longest
  303. 12:23hairs in my chosen zone, I then move on
  304. 12:26to fill in the volume itself, the very
  305. 12:28base of my eyebrow right between them. I
  306. 12:30start shaping it with shorter hairs to
  307. 12:32create definition. And then in the third
  308. 12:35and final stage, I will meticulously
  309. 12:37build up the density and add even more
  310. 12:39volume to complete my work. In other
  311. 12:42words, for this beginning part that I've
  312. 12:44already worked on with both long and
  313. 12:46shorter hairs, I go in exactly where I
  314. 12:50need to specifically into the gaps. You
  315. 12:53know, sometimes it happens that you've
  316. 12:54already worked carefully through all the
  317. 12:56hairs with sevens, eights, sixes, and
  318. 12:59fives. And then you look at this zone
  319. 13:01like I'm looking now. Yes. at this
  320. 13:03beginning of the eyebrow. And there are
  321. 13:05spots where it really calls for small
  322. 13:08tiny fours to add a little more volume
  323. 13:10and density to this area. That is to
  324. 13:13form its thickness and give the brow a
  325. 13:15nice balanced volume. In such a case
  326. 13:18where it specifically calls for it, I
  327. 13:20can place 4 mm strokes directly onto the
  328. 13:23skin right in those selected gaps. By
  329. 13:26the way, the shorter the hair, the
  330. 13:28better it will hold on the skin
  331. 13:29afterward because it's small. So it will
  332. 13:32be less prone to uh mechanical snagging
  333. 13:35from any irritants. Even when we brush
  334. 13:37over the area, we certainly won't be
  335. 13:39traumatizing the skin nearly as much as
  336. 13:41we would if it were a long hair applied
  337. 13:44directly to the surface. And if it
  338. 13:46happens to be necessary, I can carefully
  339. 13:48work on the skin using 4mm strokes in
  340. 13:50some other places as well. However, if
  341. 13:53it's not strictly necessary, I can
  342. 13:54simply choose not to do it at all. So
  343. 13:57it's not mandatory and you can choose
  344. 13:59your own working principle for yourself.
  345. 14:02You have the option to work with both
  346. 14:04the skin and the hairs or alternatively
  347. 14:06you can choose to work purely with the
  348. 14:08hairs and not touch the skin at all. So
  349. 14:11it is personally your choice how you
  350. 14:13want to work specifically in the eyebrow
  351. 14:15extension technique. Now let's move on
  352. 14:18to the third rule. The third rule is
  353. 14:21this. We do not place hairs on the skin
  354. 14:23in a single straight row. We do not form
  355. 14:26fences with you as that would look
  356. 14:28unnatural. If we have uh an area that we
  357. 14:32need to work on that is frankly quite
  358. 14:34bald and we need to place a lot of hairs
  359. 14:36on the skin. In that specific case, we
  360. 14:39will arrange them in a chaotic order to
  361. 14:41ensure the final result looks natural.
  362. 14:44You won't line them all up in one long
  363. 14:46row, but rather one a little lower,
  364. 14:49another a little higher, and maybe
  365. 14:51another one even lower. In other words,
  366. 14:53we are going to arrange the hairs just
  367. 14:56as they grow naturally. And when we are
  368. 14:59working on uh roughly speaking a bald
  369. 15:02part of the eyebrow, when there are no
  370. 15:04hairs there and we need to place a
  371. 15:07straight fiber on the skin, in that case
  372. 15:10we won't super densify that area so that
  373. 15:13it doesn't stand out. Because when we
  374. 15:16place many long and short hairs in one
  375. 15:19area, even in a staggered pattern and
  376. 15:22fill this area according to the hair
  377. 15:24placement scheme, like in hairstroke
  378. 15:26permanent makeup, it will still look as
  379. 15:28if we just dumped a bunch of sticks
  380. 15:30there. Therefore, if we are working with
  381. 15:33the skin and using exclusively straight
  382. 15:35hairs, we do not make this area super
  383. 15:38dense and do not place all the hairs in
  384. 15:40a single row. This is very important.
  385. 15:43And when we glue the hairs to the skin,
  386. 15:45we don't glue them flat like this. They
  387. 15:47don't stick like that and don't lie flat
  388. 15:49on the skin. We still add a little bit
  389. 15:52of air. Approximately 2 mm should be
  390. 15:55glued to the skin while the tail should
  391. 15:58remain in the air to create extra volume
  392. 16:00and to create extra aireriness. Because
  393. 16:03if we glue the hairs completely flat
  394. 16:05against the skin, it will just look like
  395. 16:07a hair glued flat against the skin. It
  396. 16:10simply won't look natural. And this
  397. 16:13eyebrow specifically this area will lack
  398. 16:16that essential aireriness and volume and
  399. 16:19it will end up looking quite unnatural.

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